grove,wesawtheglowandsmeltthearomaticodourofacoalofcocoa-nuthusk,arelicoftheeveningkitchen。Cricketssang;
someshrillthingwhistledinatuftofweeds;andthemosquitohummedandstung。Therewasnoothertracethatnightofman,bird,orinsectintheisle。Themoon,nowthreedaysold,andasyetbutasilvercrescentonastillvisiblesphere,shonethroughthepalmcanopywithvigorousandscatteredlights。Thealleyswherewewalkedweresmoothedandweededlikeaboulevard;hereandtherewereplantssetout;hereandthereduskycottagesclusteredintheshadow,somewithverandahs。Apublicgardenbynight,arichandfashionablewatering-placeinaby-season,offersightsandvistasnotdissimilar。Andstill,ontheoneside,stretchedthelappingmere,andfromtheotherthedeepseastillgrowledinthenight。Butitwasmostofallonboard,inthedeadhours,whenIhadbeenbettersleeping,thatthespellofFakaravaseizedandheldme。Themoonwasdown。Theharbourlanternandtwoofthegreaterplanetsdrewvari-colouredwakesonthelagoon。Fromshorethecheerfulwatch-cryofcocksrangoutatintervalsabovetheorgan-pointofsurf。Andthethoughtofthisdepopulatedcapital,thisprotractedthreadofannularislandwithitscrestofcoco-palmsandfringeofbreakers,andthattranquilinlandseathatstretchedbeforemetillittouchedthestars,raninmyheadforhourswithdelight。
SolongasIstayeduponthatislethesethoughtswereconstant。I
laydowntosleep,andwokeagainwithanunbluntedsenseofmysurroundings。Iwasneverwearyofcallinguptheimageofthatnarrowcauseway,onwhichIhadmydwelling,lyingcoiledlikeaserpent,tailtomouth,intheoutrageousocean,andIwasneverwearyofpassing-amerequarter-deckparade-fromtheonesidetotheother,fromtheshady,habitableshoresofthelagoontotheblindingdesertanduproariousbreakersoftheoppositebeach。Thesenseofinsecurityinsuchathreadofresidenceismorethanfanciful。Hurricanesandtidalwavesover-leapthesehumbleobstacles;Oceanusremembershisstrength,and,wherehousesstoodandpalmsflourished,shakeshiswhitebeardagainoverthebarrencoral。Fakaravaitselfhassuffered;thetreesimmediatelybeyondmyhousewereallofrecentreplantation;andAnaaisonlynowrecoveredfromaheavierstroke。Iknewonewhowasthendwellingintheisle。Hetoldmethatheandtwoshipcaptainswalkedtotheseabeach。Thereforawhiletheyviewedtheon-comingbreakers,tilloneofthecaptainsclappedsuddenlyhishandbeforehiseyesandcriedaloudthathecouldendurenolongertobeholdthem。Thiswasintheafternoon;inthedarkhoursofthenighttheseaburstupontheislandlikeaflood;thesettlementwasrazedallbutthechurchandpresbytery;and,whendayreturned,thesurvivorssawthemselvesclinginginanabattisofuprootedcoco-palmsandruinedhouses。
Dangerisbutasmallconsideration。Butmenaremorenicelysensibleofadiscomfort;andtheatollisadiscomfortablehome。
Therearesome,andtheseprobablyancient,whereadeepsoilhasformedandthemostvaluablefruit-treesprosper。Ihavewalkedinone,withequaladmirationandsurprise,throughaforestofhugebreadfruits,eatingbananasandstumblingamongtaroasIwent。
ThiswasintheatollofNamorikintheMarshallgroup,andstandsaloneinmyexperience。Togivetheoppositeextreme,whichisyetfarmoreneartheaverage,IwilldescribethesoilandproductionsofFakarava。Thesurfaceofthatnarrowstripisforthemorepartofbrokencorallime-stone,likevolcanicclinkers,andexcruciatingtothenakedfoot;insomeatolls,Ibelieve,notinFakarava,itgivesafinemetallicringwhenstruck。Hereandthereyoucomeuponabankofsand,exceedingfineandwhite,andthesepartsaretheleastproductive。Theplantssuchastheyarespringfromandlovethebrokencoral,whencetheygrowwiththatwonderfulverdancythatmakesthebeautyoftheatollfromthesea。Thecoco-palminparticularluxuriatesinthatsternSOLUM,strikingdownhisrootstothebrackish,percolatedwater,andbearinghisgreenheadinthewindwitheveryevidenceofhealthandpleasure。Andyeteventhecoco-palmmustbehelpedininfancywithsomeextraneousnutriment,andthroughmuchofthelowarchipelagothereisplantedwitheachnutapieceofship’sbiscuitandarustynail。Thepandanuscomesnextinimportance,beingalsoafoodtree;andhe,too,doesbravely。AgreenbushcalledMIKIrunseverywhere;occasionallyapuraoisseen;andthereareseveraluselessweeds。AccordingtoM。Cuzent,thewholenumberofplantsonanatollsuchasFakaravawillscarceexceed,evenifitreachesto,onescore。Notabladeofgrassappears;
notagrainofhumus,savewhenasackortwohasbeenimportedtomakethesemblanceofagarden;suchgardensasbloomincitiesonthewindow-sill。Insectlifeissometimesdense;acloudo’
mosquitoes,and,whatisfarworse,aplagueoffliesblackeningourfood,hassometimesdrivenusfromamealonApemama;andeveninFakaravathemosquitoeswereapest。Thelandcrabmaybeseenscuttlingtohishole,andatnighttheratsbesiegethehousesandtheartificialgardens。Thecrabisgoodeating;possiblysoistherat;Ihavenottried。Pandanusfruitismade,intheGilberts,intoanagreeablesweetmeat,suchasamanmaytriflewithattheendofalongdinner;forasubstantialmealIhavenouseforit。Therestofthefood-supply,inadestituteatollsuchasFakarava,canbesummedupinthefavouritejestofthearchipelago-cocoa-nutbeefsteak。Cocoa-nutgreen,cocoa-nutripe,cocoa-nutgerminated;cocoa-nuttoeatandcocoa-nuttodrink;cocoa-nutrawandcooked,cocoa-nuthotandcold-suchisthebilloffare。Andsomeoftheentreesarenodoubtdelicious。
Thegerminatednut,cookedintheshellandeatenwithaspoon,formsagoodpudding;cocoa-nutmilk-theexpressedjuiceofaripenut,notthewaterofagreenone-goeswellincoffee,andisavaluableadjunctincookerythroughtheSouthSeas;andcocoa-
nutsalad,ifyoubeamillionaire,andcanaffordtoeatthevalueofafieldofcornforyourdessert,isadishtoberememberedwithaffection。Butwhenallisdonethereisasameness,andtheIsraelitesofthelowislandsmurmurattheirmanna。
ThereadermaythinkIhaveforgotthesea。Thetwobeachesdocertainlyaboundinlife,andtheyarestrangelydifferent。Inthelagoonthewatershallowsslowlyonabottomofthefineslimysand,dottedwithclumpsofgrowingcoral。Thencomesastripoftidalbeachonwhichtherippleslap。Inthecoralclumpsthegreatholy-waterclamTRIDACNAgrowsplentifully;alittledeeperliethebedsofthepearl-oysterandsailtheresplendentfishthatcharmedusatourentrance;andtheseareallmoreorlessvigorouslycoloured。Buttheothershellsarewhitelikelime,orfaintlytintedwithalittlepink,thepalestpossibledisplay;
manyofthemdeadbesides,andbadlyrolled。Ontheoceanside,onthemoundsofthesteepbeach,overallthewidthofthereefrightouttowherethesurfisbursting,ineverycranny,undereveryscatteredfragmentofthecoral,anincredibleplentyofmarinelifedisplaysthemostwonderfulvarietyandbrilliancyofhues。
Thereefitselfhasnopassageofcolourbutisimitatedbysomeshell。Purpleandredandwhite,andgreenandyellow,piedandstripedandclouded,thelivingshellswearineverycombinationtheliveryofthedeadreef-ifthereefbedead-sothattheeyeiscontinuallybaffledandthecollectorcontinuallydeceived。I
havetakenshellsforstonesandstonesforshells,theoneasoftenastheother。Aprevailingcharacterofthecoralistobedottedwithsmallspotsofred,anditiswonderfulhowmanyvarietiesofshellhaveadoptedthesamefashionanddonnedthedisguiseoftheredspot。AshellIhadfoundinplentyintheMarquesasIfoundherealsounchangedinallthingselse,butthereweretheredspots。Alivelylittlecrabworethesamemarkings。
Thecaseofthehermitorsoldiercrabwasmoreconclusive,beingtheresultofconsciouschoice。Thisnastylittlewrecker,scavenger,andsquatterhaslearnedthevalueofaspottedhouse;
soitbeoftherightcolourhewillchoosethesmallestshard,tuckhimselfinamerecornerofabrokenwhorl,andgoabouttheworldhalfnaked;butIneverfoundhiminthisimperfectarmourunlessitwasmarkedwiththeredspot。
Sometwohundredyardsdistantisthebeachofthelagoon。Collecttheshellsfromeach,setthemsidebyside,andyouwouldsupposetheycamefromdifferenthemispheres;theonesopale,theothersobrilliant;theoneprevalentlywhite,theotherofascoreofhues,andinfectedwiththescarletspotlikeadisease。Thisseemsthemorestrange,sincethehermitcrabspassandrepasstheisland,andIhavemetthembytheResidencywell,whichisaboutcentral,journeyingeitherway。Withoutdoubtmanyoftheshellsinthelagoonaredead。Butwhyaretheydead?Withoutdoubtthelivingshellshaveaverydifferentbackgroundsetforimitation。Butwhyarethesesodifferent?Weareonlyonthethresholdofthemysteries。
Eitherbeach,Ihavesaid,aboundswithlife。Onthesea-sideandincertainatollsthisprofusionofvitalityisevenshocking:therockunderfootisminedwithit。Ihavebrokenoff-notablyinFunafutiandArorai-greatlumpsofancientweatheredrockthatrangundermyblowslikeiron,andthefracturehasbeenfullofpendentwormsaslongasmyhand,asthickasachild’sfinger,ofaslightlypinkishwhite,andsetascloseasthreeorevenfourtothesquareinch。Eveninthelagoon,wherecertainshell-fishseemtosicken,othersitisnotoriousprosperexceedinglyandmaketherichesoftheseislands。Fish,too,abound;thelagoonisaclosedfish-pond,suchasmightrejoicethefancyofanabbot;
sharksswarmthere,andchieflyroundthepassages,tofeastuponthisplenty,andyouwouldsupposethatmanhadonlytopreparehisangle。Alas!itisnotso。OfthesepaintedfishthatcameinhordesabouttheenteringCASCO,someborepoisonousspines,andotherswerepoisonousifeaten。Thestrangermustrefrain,ortakehischanceofpainfulanddangeroussickness。Thenative,onhisownisle,isasafeguide;transplanthimtothenext,andheishelplessasyourself。Foritisaquestionbothoftimeandplace。
Afishcaughtinalagoonmaybedeadly;thesamefishcaughtthesamedayatsea,andonlyafewhundredyardswithoutthepassage,willbewholesomeeating:inaneighbouringisleperhapsthecasewillbereversed;andperhapsafortnightlateryoushallbeabletoeatofthemindifferentlyfromwithinandfromwithout。
Accordingtothenatives,thesebewilderingvicissitudesareruledbythemovementoftheheavenlybodies。ThebeautifulplanetVenusplaysagreatpartinallislandtalesandcustoms;andamongotherfunctions,someofthemmoreawful,sheregulatestheseasonofgoodfish。WithVenusinonephase,aswehadher,certainfishwerepoisonousinthelagoon:withVenusinanother,thesamefishwasharmlessandavaluedarticleofdiet。Whitemenexplainthesechangesbythephasesofthecoral。
Itaddsalasttouchofhorrortothethoughtofthisprecariousannulargangwayinthesea,thatevenwhatthereisofitisnotofhonestrock,butorganic,partalive,partputrescent;eventhecleanseaandthebrightfishaboutitpoisoned,themoststubbornboulderburrowedinbyworms,thelightestdustvenomousasanapothecary’sdrugs。
CHAPTERIII-AHOUSETOLETINALOWISLAND