Toonewhoconceivesoftheseatolls,sonarrow,sobarren,sobesetwithsea,herewouldseemasuperfluityofghostlydenizens。
Andyettherearemore。Inthevariousbrackishpoolsandponds,beautifulwomenwithlongredhairareseentoriseandbathe;onlytimidasmiceonthefirstsoundoffeetuponthecoraltheydiveagainforever。Theyareknowntobehealthyandharmlesslivingpeople,dwellersofanunderworld;andthesamefancyiscurrentinTahiti,wherealsotheyhavethehairred。TETEAistheTahitianname;thePaumotuan,MOKUREA。
PARTIII:THEGILBERTS
CHAPTERI-BUTARITARI
ATHonoluluwehadsaidfarewelltotheCASCOandtoCaptainOtis,andournextadventurewasmadeinchangedconditions。Passagewastakenformyself,mywife,Mr。Osbourne,andmyChinaboy,AhFu,onapigmytradingschooner,theEQUATOR,CaptainDennisReid;andonacertainbrightJunedayin1889,adornedintheHawaiianfashionwiththegarlandsofdeparture,wedrewoutofportandborewithafairwindforMicronesia。
ThewholeextentoftheSouthSeasisadesertofships;moreespeciallythatpartwherewewerenowtosail。Nopostrunsintheseislands;communicationisbyaccident;whereyoumayhavedesignedtogoisonething,whereyoushallbeabletoarriveanother。Itwasmyhope,forinstance,tohavereachedtheCarolines,andreturnedtothelightofdaybywayofManilaandtheChinaports;anditwasinSamoathatweweredestinedtore-
appearandbeoncemorerefreshedwiththesightofmountains。
SincethesunsetfadedfromthepeaksofOahusixmonthshadintervened,andwehadseennospotofearthsohighasanordinarycottage。Ourpathhadbeenstillontheflatsea,ourdwellingsuponunerectedcoral,ourdietfromthepickle-tuboroutoftins;
Ihadlearnedtowelcomeshark’sfleshforavariety;andamountain,anonion,anIrishpotatoorabeef-steak,hadbeenlonglosttosenseanddeartoaspiration。
Thetwochiefplacesofourstay,ButaritariandApemama,lieneartheline;thelatterwithinthirtymiles。Bothenjoyasuperboceanclimate,daysofblindingsunandbracingwind,nightsofaheavenlybrightness。BotharesomewhatwiderthanFakarava,measuringperhapsatthewidestaquarterofamilefrombeachtobeach。Inboth,acoarsekindofTAROthrives;itscultureisachiefbusinessofthenatives,andtheconsequentmoundsandditchesmakeminiaturesceneryandamusetheeye。Inallelsetheyshowthecustomaryfeaturesofanatoll:thelowhorizon,theexpanseofthelagoon,thesedge-likerimofpalm-tops,thesamenessandsmallnessoftheland,thehugelysuperiorsizeandinterestofseaandsky。Lifeonsuchislandsisinmanypointslikelifeonshipboard。Theatoll,liketheship,issoontakenforgranted;andtheislanders,liketheship’screw,becomesoonthecentreofattention。Theislesarepopulous,independent,seatsofkinglets,recentlycivilised,littlevisited。Inthelastdecademanychangeshavecreptin;womennolongergounclothedtillmarriage;thewidownolongersleepsatnightandgoesabroadbydaywiththeskullofherdeadhusband;and,fire-armsbeingintroduced,thespearandtheshark-toothswordaresoldforcuriosities。Tenyearsagoallthesethingsandpracticesweretobeseeninuse;yettenyearsmore,andtheoldsocietywillhaveentirelyvanished。WecameinahappymomenttoseeitsinstitutionsstillerectandinApemamascarcedecayed。
Populousandindependent-warrensofmen,ruledoverwithsomerusticpomp-suchwasthefirstandstilltherecurringimpressionofthesetinylands。AswestoodacrossthelagoonforthetownofButaritari,astretchofthelowshorewasseentobecrowdedwiththebrownroofsofhouses;thoseofthepalaceandking’ssummerparlourwhichareofcorrugatedironglitterednearoneendconspicuouslybright;theroyalcoloursflewhardbyonatallflagstaff;infront,onanartificialislet,thegaolplayedthepartofamartello。Evenuponthisfirstanddistantview,theplacehadscarcetheairofwhatittrulywas,avillage;ratherofthatwhichitwasalso,apettymetropolis,acityrusticandyetroyal。
Thelagoonisshoal。Thetidebeingout,wewadedforsomequarterofamileintepidshallows,andsteppedashoreatlastintoaflagrantstagnancyofsunandheat。Theleesideofalineislandafternoonisindeedabreathlessplace;ontheoceanbeachthetradewillbestillblowing,boisterousandcool;outinthelagoonitwillbeblowingalso,speedingthecanoes;butthescreenofbushcompletelyinterceptsitfromtheshore,andsleepandsilenceandcompaniesofmosquitoesbrooduponthetowns。
WemaythusbesaidtohavetakenButaritaribysurprise。Afewinhabitantswerestillabroadinthenorthend,atwhichwelanded。
Asweadvanced,weweresoondonewithencounter,andseemedtoexploreacityofthedead。Only,betweenthepostsofopenhouses,wecouldseethetownsfolkstretchedinthesiesta,sometimesafamilytogetherveiledinamosquito-net,sometimesasinglesleeperonaplatformlikeacorpseonabier。
Thehouseswereofalldimensions,fromthoseoftoystothoseofchurches。Somemightholdabattalion,someweresominutetheycouldscarcereceiveapairoflovers;onlyintheplayroom,whenthetoysaremingled,dowemeetsuchincongruitiesofscale。Manywereopensheds;sometooktheformofroofedstages;otherswerewalledandthewallspiercedwithlittlewindows。Afewwereperchedonpilesinthelagoon;thereststoodatrandomonagreen,throughwhichtheroadwaymadearibbonofsand,oralongtheembankmentsofasheetofwaterlikeashallowdock。Oneandallwerethecreaturesofasingletree;palm-treewoodandpalm-
treeleaftheirmaterials;nonailhadbeendriven,nohammersounded,intheirbuilding,andtheywereheldtogetherbylashingsofpalm-treesinnet。
Inthemidstofthethoroughfare,thechurchstandslikeanisland,aloftyanddimhousewithrowsofwindows;arichtraceryofframingsustainstheroof;andthroughthedoorateitherendthestreetshowsinavista。Theproportionsoftheplace,insuchsurroundings,andbuiltofsuchmaterials,appearedaugust;andwethreadedthenavewithasentimentbefittingvisitorsinacathedral。Benchesrunalongeitherside。Inthemidst,onacrazydais,twochairsstandreadyforthekingandqueenwhentheyshallchoosetoworship;overtheirheadsahoop,apparentlyfromahogshead,dependsbyastripofredcotton;andthehoopwhichhangsaskewisdressedwithstreamersofthesamematerial,redandwhite。
Thiswasourfirstadvertisementoftheroyaldignity,andpresentlywestoodbeforeitsseatandcentre。ThepalaceisbuiltofimportedwooduponaEuropeanplan;theroofofcorrugatediron,theyardenclosedwithwalls,thegatesurmountedbyasortoflych-house。Itcannotbecalledspacious;alabourerintheStatesissometimesmorecommodiouslylodged;butwhenwehadthechancetoseeitwithin,wefounditwasenrichedbeyondallislandexpectationwithcolouredadvertisementsandcutsfromtheillustratedpapers。Evenbeforethegatesomeofthetreasuresofthecrownstandpublic:abellofagoodmagnitude,twopiecesofcannon,andasingleshell。Thebellcannotberungnorthegunsfired;theyarecuriosities,proofsofwealth,apartoftheparadeoftheroyalty,andstandtobeadmiredlikestatuesinasquare。
Astraightgutofwaterlikeacanalrunsalmosttothepalacedoor;thecontainingquay-wallsexcellentlybuiltofcoral;overagainstthemouth,bywhatseemsaneffectoflandscapeart,themartello-likeisletofthegaolbreaksthelagoon。Vassalchiefswithtribute,neighbourmonarchscomea-roving,mightheresailin,viewwithsurprisetheseextensivepublicworks,andbeawedbythesemouthsofsilentcannon。Itwasimpossibletoseetheplaceandnottofancyitdesignedforpageantry。Buttheelaboratetheatrethenstoodempty;theroyalhousedeserted,itsdoorsandwindowsgaping;thewholequarterofthetownimmersedinsilence。
Ontheoppositebankofthecanal,onaroofedstage,anancientgentlemansleptpublicly,solevisibleinhabitant;andbeyondonthelagoonacanoespreadastripedlateen,thesolethingmoving。
Thecanalisformedonthesouthbyapierorcausewaywithaparapet。Atthefarendtheparapetstops,andthequayexpandsintoanoblongpeninsulainthelagoon,thebreathing-placeandsummerparlouroftheking。Themidstisoccupiedbyanopenhouseorpermanentmarquee-calledhereamaniapa,or,asthewordisnowpronounced,amaniap’-atthelowestestimationfortyfeetbysixty。Theironroof,loftybutexceedinglylow-browed,sothatawomanmuststooptoenter,issupportedexternallyonpillarsofcoral,withinbyaframeofwood。Thefloorisofbrokencoral,dividedinaislesbytheuprightsoftheframe;thehousefarenoughfromshoretocatchthebreeze,whichentersfreelyanddispersesthemosquitoes;andundertheloweavesthesunisseentoglitterandthewavestodanceonthelagoon。
Itwasnowsomewhilesincewehadmetanybutslumberers;andwhenwehadwandereddownthepierandstumbledatlastintothisbrightshed,weweresurprisedtofinditoccupiedbyasocietyofwakefulpeople,sometwentysoulsinall,thecourtandguardsmenofButaritari。Thecourtladieswerebusymakingmats;theguardsmenyawnedandsprawled。Halfadozenrifleslayonarockandacutlasswasleanedagainstapillar:thearmouryofthesedrowsymusketeers。Atthefarend,alittleclosedhouseofwooddisplayedsometinselcurtains,andproved,uponexamination,tobeaprivyontheEuropeanmodel。Infrontofthis,uponsomemats,lolledTebureimoa,theking;behindhim,onthepanelsofthehouse,twocrossedriflesrepresentedfasces。Heworepyjamaswhichsorrowfullymisbecamehisbulk;hisnosewashookedandcruel,hisbodyovercomewithsoddencorpulence,hiseyetimorousanddull:heseemedatonceoppressedwithdrowsinessandheldawakebyapprehension:apepperrajahmuddledwithopium,andlisteningforthemarchofaDutcharmy,looksperhapsnototherwise。Weweretogrowbetteracquainted,andfirstandlastI
hadthesameimpression;heseemedalwaysdrowsy,yetalwaystohearkenandstart;and,whetherfromremorseorfear,thereisnodoubtheseeksarefugeintheabuseofdrugs。
Therajahdisplayednosignofinterestinourcoming。Butthequeen,whosatbesidehiminapurplesacque,wasmoreaccessible;
andtherewaspresentaninterpretersowillingthathisvolubilitybecameatlastthecauseofourdeparture。Hehadgreetedusuponourentrance:-’ThatisthehonourableKing,andIamhisinterpreter,’hehadsaid,withmorestatelinessthantruth。Forheheldnoappointmentinthecourt,seemedextremelyill-
acquaintedwiththeislandlanguage,andwaspresent,likeourselves,uponavisitofcivility。Mr。Williamswashisname:
anAmericandarkey,runawayship’scook,andbar-keeperatTHELAND
WELIVEINtavern,Butaritari。Ineverknewamanwhohadmorewordsinhiscommandorlesstruthtocommunicate;neitherthegloomofthemonarch,normyowneffortstobedistant,couldintheleastabashhim;andwhenthesceneclosed,thedarkeywaslefttalking。
Thetownstillslumbered,orhadbutjustbeguntoturnandstretchitself;itwasstillplungedinheatandsilence。Somuchthemorevividwastheimpressionthatwecarriedawayofthehouseupontheislet,theMicronesianSaulwakefulamidhisguards,andhisunmelodiousDavid,Mr。Williams,chatteringthroughthedrowsyhours。
CHAPTERII-THEFOURBROTHERS