Tariwaspoor,andpoorlylodged。Hishousewasawoodenframe,runupbyEuropeans;itwasindeedhisofficialresidence,forTariwastheshepherdofthepromontorysheep。Icangiveaperfectinventoryofitscontents:threekegs,atinbiscuit-box,anironsaucepan,severalcocoa-shellcups,alantern,andthreebottles,probablycontainingoil;whiletheclothesofthefamilyandafewmatswerethrownacrosstheopenrafters。Uponmyfirstmeetingwiththisexilehehadconceivedformeoneofthebaselessislandfriendships,hadgivenmenutstodrink,andcarriedmeuptheden’toseemyhouse’-theonlyentertainmentthathehadtooffer。
Helikedthe’Amelican,’hesaid,andthe’Inglisman,’butthe’Flessman’washisabhorrence;andhewascarefultoexplainthatifhehadthoughtus’Fless,’weshouldhavehadnoneofhisnuts,andneverasightofhishouse。HisdistastefortheFrenchIcanpartlyunderstand,butnotatallhistolerationoftheAnglo-
Saxon。Thenextdayhebroughtmeapig,andsomedayslateroneofourpartygoingashorefoundhiminacttobringasecond。Wewerestillstrangetotheislands;wewerepainedbythepoorman’sgenerosity,whichhecouldillafford,and,byanaturalenoughbutquiteunpardonableblunder,werefusedthepig。HadTaribeenaMarquesanweshouldhaveseenhimnomore;beingwhathewas,themostmild,long-suffering,melancholyman,hetookarevengeahundredtimesmorepainful。ScarcehadthecanoewiththeninevillagersputofffromtheirfarewellbeforetheCASCOwasboardedfromtheotherside。ItwasTari;comingthuslatebecausehehadnocanoeofhisown,andhadfoundithardtoborrowone;comingthussolitaryasindeedwealwayssawhim,becausehewasastrangerintheland,andthedreariestofcompany。Therestofmyfamilybaselyfledfromtheencounter。Imustreceiveourinjuredfriendalone;andtheinterviewmusthavelastedharduponanhour,forhewasloathtotearhimselfaway。’Yougo’way。Iseeyounomore-no,sir!’helamented;andthenlookingabouthimwithruefuladmiration,’Thisgoodeeship-no,sir!-goodeeship!’hewouldexclaim:the’no,sir,’thrownoutsharplythroughthenoseuponarisinginflection,anechofromNewBedfordandthefallaciouswhaler。Fromtheseexpressionsofgriefandpraise,hewouldreturncontinuallytothecaseoftherejectedpig。’Ilikegivepresentall’esameyou,’hecomplained;’onlygotpig:younotakehim!’Hewasapoorman;hehadnochoiceofgifts;hehadonlyapig,herepeated;andIhadrefusedit。Ihaverarelybeenmorewretchedthantoseehimsittingthere,soold,sogrey,sopoor,sohardlyfortuned,ofsoruefulacountenance,andtoappreciate,withgrowingkeenness,theaffrontwhichIhadsoinnocentlydealthim;butitwasoneofthosecasesinwhichspeechisvain。
Tari’ssonwassmilingandinert;hisdaughter-in-law,agirlofsixteen,pretty,gentle,andgrave,moreintelligentthanmostAnahowomen,andwithafairshareofFrench;hisgrandchild,amiteofacreatureatthebreast。IwentupthedenonedaywhenTariwasfromhome,andfoundthesonmakingacottonsack,andmadamesucklingmademoiselle。WhenIhadsatdownwiththemonthefloor,thegirlbegantoquestionmeaboutEngland;whichItriedtodescribe,pilingthepanandthecocoashellsoneuponanothertorepresentthehouses,andexplaining,asbestIwasable,andbywordandgesture,theover-population,thehunger,andtheperpetualtoil。’PASDECOCOTIERS?PASDOPOPOI?’sheasked。I
toldheritwastoocold,andwentthroughanelaborateperformance,shuttingoutdraughts,andcrouchingoveranimaginaryfire,tomakesuresheunderstood。Butsheunderstoodrightwell;
remarkeditmustbebadforthehealth,andsatawhilegravelyreflectingonthatpictureofunwontedsorrows。Iamsureitrousedherpity,foritstruckinheranotherthoughtalwaysuppermostintheMarquesanbosom;andshebeganwithasmilingsadness,andlookingonmeoutofmelancholyeyes,tolamentthedeceaseofherownpeople。’ICIPASDEKANAQUES,’saidshe;andtakingthebabyfromherbreast,shehelditouttomewithbothherhands。’TENEZ-alittlebabylikethis;thendead。AlltheKanaquesdie。Thennomore。’Thesmile,andthisinstancingbythegirl-motherofherowntinyfleshandblood,affectedmestrangely;theyspokeofsotranquiladespair。Meanwhilethehusbandsmilinglymadehissack;andtheunconsciousbabestruggledtoreachapotofraspberryjam,friendship’soffering,whichIhadjustbroughtuptheden;andinaperspectiveofcenturiesIsawtheircaseasours,deathcominginlikeatide,andthedayalreadynumberedwhenthereshouldbenomoreBeretani,andnomoreofanyracewhatever,andwhatoddlytouchedmenomoreliteraryworksandnomorereaders。
CHAPTERIV-DEATH
THEthoughtofdeath,Ihavesaid,isuppermostinthemindoftheMarquesan。Itwouldbestrangeifitwereotherwise。Theraceisperhapsthehandsomestextant。Sixfeetisaboutthemiddleheightofmales;theyarestronglymuscled,freefromfat,swiftinaction,gracefulinrepose;andthewomen,thoughfatterandduller,arestillcomelyanimals。Tojudgebytheeye,thereisnoracemoreviable;andyetdeathreapsthemwithbothhands。WhenBishopDordillonfirstcametoTai-o-hae,hereckonedtheinhabitantsatmanythousands;hewasbutnewlydead,andinthesamebayStanislaoMoanatinicountedonhisfingerseightresidualnatives。OrtakethevalleyofHapaa,knowntoreadersofHermanMelvilleunderthegrotesquemisspellingofHapar。TherearebuttwowriterswhohavetouchedtheSouthSeaswithanygenius,bothAmericans:MelvilleandCharlesWarrenStoddard;andatthechristeningofthefirstandgreatest,someinfluentialfairymusthavebeenneglected:’Heshallbeabletosee,’’Heshallbeabletotell,’’Heshallbeabletocharm,’saidthefriendlygodmothers;’Butheshallnotbeabletohear,’exclaimedthelast。
ThetribeofHapaaissaidtohavenumberedsomefourhundred,whenthesmall-poxcameandreducedthembyone-fourth。Sixmonthslaterawomandevelopedtubercularconsumption;thediseasespreadlikeafireaboutthevalley,andinlessthanayeartwosurvivors,amanandawoman,fledfromthatnew-createdsolitude。
AsimilarAdamandEvemaysomedaywitheramongnewraces,thetragicresidueofBritain。WhenIfirstheardthisstorythedatestaggeredme;butIamnowinclinedtothinkitpossible。Earlyintheyearofmyvisit,forexample,orlatetheyearbefore,afirstcaseofphthisisappearedinahouseholdofseventeenpersons,andbythemonthofAugust,whenthetalewastoldme,onesoulsurvived,andthatwasaboywhohadbeenabsentathisschooling。
Anddepopulationworksbothways,thedoorsofdeathbeingsetwideopen,andthedoorofbirthalmostclosed。Thus,inthehalf-yearendingJuly1888thereweretwelvedeathsandbutonebirthinthedistrictoftheHatiheu。Sevenoreightmoredeathsweretobelookedforintheordinarycourse;andM。Aussel,theobservantgendarme,knewofbutonelikelybirth。Atthisrateitisnomatterofsurpriseifthepopulationinthatpartshouldhavedeclinedinfortyyearsfromsixthousandtolessthanfourhundred;whichare,oncemoreontheauthorityofM。Aussel,theestimatedfigures。Andtherateofdeclinemusthaveevenacceleratedtowardstheend。
AgoodwaytoappreciatethedepopulationistogobylandfromAnahotoHatiheuontheadjacentbay。Theroadisgoodtravelling,butcruellysteep。WeseemedscarcetohavepassedthedesertedhousewhichstandshighestinAnahobeforewewerelookingdizzilydownuponitsroof;theCASCOwelloutinthebay,androllingforawager,shrankvisibly;andpresentlythroughthegapofTari’sisthmus,Ua-hunawasseentohangcloudlikeonthehorizon。Overthesummit,wherethewindblewreallychill,andwhistledinthereed-likegrass,andtossedthegrassyfellofthepandanus,westeppedsuddenly,asthroughadoor,intothenextvaleandbayofHatiheu。Abowlofmountainsenclosesituponthreesides。Onthefourththisramparthasbeenbombardedintoruins,runsdowntoseawardinimminentandshatteredcrags,andpresentstheonepracticablebreachofthebluebay。Theinteriorofthisvesseliscrowdedwithlovelyandvaluabletrees,-orange,breadfruit,mummy-apple,cocoa,theislandchestnut,andforweeds,thepineandthebanana。Fourperennialstreamswaterandkeepitgreen;
andalongthedell,firstofone,thenofanother,ofthese,theroad,foraconsiderabledistance,descendsintothisfortunatevalley。Thesongofthewatersandthefamiliardisarrayofbouldersgaveusastrongsenseofhome,whichtheexoticfoliage,thedaft-likegrowthofthepandanus,thebuttressedtrunkofthebanyan,theblackpigsgallopinginthebush,andthearchitectureofthenativehousesdissipatedereitcouldbeenjoyed。
ThehousesontheHatiheusidebeginhighup;higheryet,themoremelancholyspectacleofemptypaepaes。Whenanativehabitationisdeserted,thesuperstructure-pandanusthatch,wattle,unstabletropicaltimber-speedilyrots,andisspeedilyscatteredbythewind。Onlythestonesoftheterraceendure;norcananyruin,cairn,orstandingstone,orvitrifiedfortpresentamoresternappearanceofantiquity。Wemusthavepassedfromsixtoeightofthesenowhouselessplatforms。Onthemainroadoftheisland,whereitcrossesthevalleyofTaipi,Mr。Osbournetellsmetheyaretobereckonedbythedozen;andastheroadshavebeenmadelongposteriortotheirerection,perhapstotheirdesertion,andmustsimplyberegardedaslinesdrawnatrandomthroughthebush,theforestoneitherhandmustbeequallyfilledwiththesesurvivals:thegravestonesofwholefamilies。Suchruinsaretapuinthestrictestsense;nonativemustapproachthem;theyhavebecomeoutpostsofthekingdomofthegrave。Itmightappearanaturalandpiouscustominthehundredswhoareleft,therearguardofperishedthousands,thattheirfeetshouldleaveuntrodthesehearthstonesoftheirfathers。Ibelieve,infact,thecustomrestsondifferentandmoregrimconceptions。Butthehouse,thegrave,andeventhebodyofthedead,havebeenalwaysparticularlyhonouredbyMarquesans。Untilrecentlythecorpsewassometimeskeptinthefamilyanddailyoiledandsunned,until,bygradualandrevoltingstages,itdriedintoakindofmummy。
Offeringsarestilllaiduponthegrave。InTraitor’sBay,Mr。
Osbournesawamanbuyalooking-glasstolayuponhisson’s。Andthesentimentagainstthedesecrationoftombs,thoughtlesslyruffledinthelayingdownofthenewroads,isachiefingredientinthenativehatredfortheFrench。
TheMarquesanbeholdswithdismaytheapproachingextinctionofhisrace。Thethoughtofdeathsitsdownwithhimtomeat,andriseswithhimfromhisbed;helivesandbreathesunderashadowofmortalityawfultosupport;andheissoinuredtotheapprehensionthathegreetstherealitywithrelief。Hedoesnotevenseektosupportadisappointment;atanaffront,atabreachofoneofhisfleetingandcommunisticlove-affairs,heseeksaninstantrefugeinthegrave。Hangingisnowthefashion。IheardofthreewhohadhangedthemselvesinthewestendofHiva-oaduringthefirsthalfof1888;butthoughthisbeacommonformofsuicideinotherpartsoftheSouthSeas,IcannotthinkitwillcontinuepopularintheMarquesas。FarmoresuitabletoMarquesansentimentistheoldformofpoisoningwiththefruitoftheeva,whichofferstothenativesuicideacruelbutdeliberatedeath,andgivestimeforthosedecenciesofthelasthour,towhichheattachessuchremarkableimportance。Thecoffincanthusbeathand,thepigskilled,thecryofthemournerssoundingalreadythroughthehouse;
andthenitis,andnotbefore,thattheMarquesanisconsciousofachievement,hislifeallroundedin,hisrobeslikeCaesar’s
adjustedforthefinalact。Praisenotanymantillheisdead,saidtheancients;envynotanymantillyouhearthemourners,mightbetheMarquesanparody。Thecoffin,thoughoflateintroduction,strangelyengagestheirattention。ItistothematureMarquesanwhatawatchistotheEuropeanschoolboy。FortenyearsQueenVaekehuhaddunnedthefathers;atlast,buttheotherday,theyletherhaveherwill,gaveherhercoffin,andthewoman’ssoulisatrest。Iwastoldadrollinstanceoftheforceofthispreoccupation。ThePolynesiansaresubjecttoadiseaseseeminglyratherofthewillthanofthebody。IwastoldtheTahitianshaveawordforit,ERIMATUA,butcannotfinditinmydictionary。Agendarme,M。Nouveau,hasseenmenbeginningtosuccumbtothisinsubstantialmalady,hasroutedthemfromtheirhouses,turnedthemontodotheirtrickupontheroads,andintwodayshasseenthemcured。Butthisotherremedyismoreoriginal:
aMarquesan,dyingofthisdiscouragement-perhapsIshouldrathersaythisacquiescence-hasbeenknown,atthefulfilmentofhiscrowningwish,onthemeresightofthatdesiredhermitage,hiscoffin-torevive,recover,shakeoffthehandofdeath,andberestoredforyearstohisoccupations-carvingtikisidols,letussay,orbraidingoldmen’sbeards。Fromallthisitmaybeconceivedhoweasilytheymeetdeathwhenitapproachesnaturally。
Iheardoneexample,grimandpicturesque。Inthetimeofthesmall-poxinHapaa,anoldmanwasseizedwiththedisease;hehadnothoughtofrecovery;hadhisgravedugbyawayside,andlivedinitfornearafortnight,eating,drinking,andsmokingwiththepassers-by,talkingmostlyofhisend,andequallyunconcernedforhimselfandcarelessofthefriendswhomheinfected。
Thispronenesstosuicide,andlooseseatinlife,isnotpeculiartotheMarquesan。Whatispeculiaristhewidespreaddepressionandacceptanceofthenationalend。Pleasuresareneglected,thedancelanguishes,thesongsareforgotten。Itistruethatsome,andperhapstoomany,ofthemareproscribed;butmanyremain,iftherewerespirittosupportortorevivethem。AtthelastfeastoftheBastille,StanislaoMoanatinishedtearswhenhebeheldtheinanimateperformanceofthedancers。WhenthepeoplesangforusinAnaho,theymustapologiseforthesmallnessoftheirrepertory。
Theywereonlyyoungfolkpresent,theysaid,anditwasonlytheoldthatknewthesongs。ThewholebodyofMarquesanpoetryandmusicwasbeingsufferedtodieoutwithasingledispiritedgeneration。ThefullimportisapparentonlytooneacquaintedwithotherPolynesianraces;whoknowshowtheSamoancoinsafreshsongforeverytriflingincident,orwhohasheardonPenrhyn,forinstanceabandoflittlestriplingmaidsfromeighttotwelvekeepuptheirminstrelsyforhoursuponastretch,onesongfollowinganotherwithoutpause。Inlikemanner,theMarquesan,neverindustrious,beginsnowtoceasealtogetherfromproduction。
Theexportsofthegroupdeclineoutofallproportionevenwiththedeath-rateoftheislanders。’Thecoralwaxes,thepalmgrows,andmandeparts,’saystheMarquesan;andhefoldshishands。Andsurelythisisnature。Fondasitmayappear,welabourandrefrain,notfortherewardsofanysinglelife,butwithatimideyeuponthelivesandmemoriesofoursuccessors;andwherenooneistosucceed,ofhisownfamily,orhisowntongue,IdoubtwhetherRothschildswouldmakemoneyorCatopractisevirtue。Itisnatural,also,thatatemporarystimulusshouldsometimesrousetheMarquesanfromhislethargy。OverallthelandwardshoreofAnahocottonrunslikeawildweed;manorwoman,whoevercomestopickit,mayearnadollarintheday;yetwhenwearrived,thetrader’sstore-housewasentirelyempty;andbeforeweleftitwasnearfull。Solongasthecircuswasthere,solongastheCASCO
wasyetanchoredinthebay,itbehovedeveryonetomakehisvisit;andtothisendeverywomanmusthaveanewdress,andeverymanashirtandtrousers。Neverbefore,inMr。Regler’sexperience,hadtheydisplayedsomuchactivity。
Intheirdespondencythereisanelementofdread。ThefearofghostsandofthedarkisverydeeplywritteninthemindofthePolynesian;notleastoftheMarquesan。PoorTaipi,thechiefofAnaho,wascondemnedtoridetoHatiheuonamoonlessnight。Heborrowedalantern,satalongwhilenervinghimselffortheadventure,andwhenheatlastdeparted,wrungtheCASCOSbythehandasforafinalseparation。Certainpresences,calledVehinehae,frequentandmaketerriblethenocturnalroadside;Iwastoldbyonetheywerelikesomuchmist,andasthetravellerwalkedintothemdispersedanddissipated;anotherdescribedthemasbeingshapedlikemenandhavingeyeslikecats;fromnonecouldIobtainthesmallestclearnessastowhattheydid,orwhereforetheyweredreaded。Wemaybesureatleasttheyrepresentthedead;forthedead,inthemindsoftheislanders,areall-