Andsotheold,legitimatecannibalmustrideoverthemountainstodoitforhim;andtherespectableofficialinwhiteclothescouldbutlookonandenvy。Ataboutthesametime,thoughinadifferentmanner,Kooamuaestablishedaforestlaw。Itwasobservedthecocoa-palmsweresuffering,forthepluckingofgreennutsimpoverishesandatlastendangersthetree。NowKooamuacouldtaputhereef,whichwaspublicproperty,buthecouldnottapuotherpeople’spalms;andtheexpedientadoptedwasinteresting。Hetapu’dhisowntrees,andhisexamplewasimitatedoverallHatiheuandAnaho。IfearTaipimighthavetapu’dallthathepossessedandfoundnonetofollowhim。Somuchfortheesteeminwhichthedignityofanappointedchiefisheldbyothers;asinglecircumstancewillshowwhathethinksofithimself。Inevermetone,buthetookanearlyopportunitytoexplainhissituation。True,hewasonlyanappointedchiefwhenI
  beheldhim;butsomewhereelse,perhapsuponsomeotherisle,hewasachieftainbydescent:uponwhichground,heaskedmesotosayittoexcusehismushroomhonours。
  Itwillbeobservedwithsurprisethatboththesetapusareforthoroughlysensibleends。Withsurprise,Isay,becausethenatureofthatinstitutionismuchmisunderstoodinEurope。Itistakenusuallyinthesenseofameaninglessorwantonprohibition,suchasthatwhichto-daypreventswomeninsomecountriesfromsmoking,oryesterdaypreventedanyoneinScotlandfromtakingawalkonSunday。Theerrorisnolessnaturalthanitisunjust。ThePolynesianshavenotbeentrainedinthebracing,practicalthoughtofancientRome;withthemtheideaoflawhasnotbeendisengagedfromthatofmoralsorpropriety;sothattapuhastocoverthewholefield,andimpliesindifferentlythatanactiscriminal,immoral,againstsoundpublicpolicy,unbecomingoraswesay
  ’notingoodform。’Manytapuswereinconsequenceabsurdenough,suchasthosewhichdeletedwordsoutofthelanguage,andparticularlythosewhichrelatedtowomen。Tapuencircledwomenuponallhands。Manythingswereforbiddentomen;towomenwemaysaythatfewwerepermitted。Theymustnotsitonthepaepae;theymustnotgouptoitbythestair;theymustnoteatpork;theymustnotapproachaboat;theymustnotcookatafirewhichanymalehadkindled。Theotherday,aftertheroadsweremade,itwasobservedthewomenplungedalongmarginthroughthebush,andwhentheycametoabridgewadedthroughthewater:roadsandbridgesweretheworkofmen’shands,andtapuforthefootofwomen。Evenaman’ssaddle,ifthemanbenative,isathingnoself-respectingladydarestouse。ThusontheAnahosideoftheisland,onlytwowhitemen,Mr。Reglerandthegendarme,M。Aussel,possesssaddles;
  andwhenawomanhasajourneytomakeshemustborrowfromoneorother。Itwillbenoticedthattheseprohibitionstend,mostofthem,toanincreasedreservebetweenthesexes。Regardforfemalechastityistheusualexcuseforthesedisabilitiesthatmendelighttolayupontheirwivesandmothers。Heretheregardisabsent;andbeholdthewomenstillboundhandandfootwithmeaninglessproprieties!Thewomenthemselves,whoaresurvivorsoftheoldregimen,admitthatinthosedayslifewasnotworthliving。Andyeteventhentherewereexceptions。TherewerefemalechiefsandIamassuredpriestessesbesides;nicecustomscurtseyedtogreatdames,andinthemostsacredenclosureofaHighPlace,FatherSimeonDelmarwasshownastone,andtolditwasthethroneofsomewell-descendedlady。HowexactlyparallelisthiswithEuropeanpractice,whenprincessesweresufferedtopenetratethestrictestcloister,andwomencouldruleoveralandinwhichtheyweredeniedthecontroloftheirownchildren。
  Butthetapuismoreoftentheinstrumentofwiseandneedfulrestrictions。Wehaveseenitastheorganofpaternalgovernment。
  Itservesbesidestoenforce,intherarecaseofsomeonewishingtoenforcethem,rightsofprivateproperty。Thusaman,wearyofthecomingandgoingofMarquesanvisitors,tapushisdoor;andtothisdayyoumayseethepalm-branchsignal,evenasourgreat-
  grandfatherssawthepeeledwandbeforeaHighlandinn。Ortakeanothercase。Anahoisknownas’thecountrywithoutpopoi。’Thewordpopoiservesindifferentislandstoindicatethemainfoodofthepeople:thus,inHawaii,itimpliesapreparationoftaro;intheMarquesas,ofbreadfruit。AndaMarquesandoesnotreadilyconceivelifepossiblewithouthisfavouritediet。AfewyearsagoadroughtkilledthebreadfruittreesandthebananasinthedistrictofAnaho;andfromthiscalamity,andtheopen-handedcustomsoftheisland,asingularstateofthingsarose。Well-
  wateredHatiheuhadescapedthedrought;everyhouseholderofAnahoaccordinglycrossedthepass,chosesomeoneinHatiheu,’gavehimhisname’-anonerousgift,butonenottoberejected-andfromthisimprovisedrelativeproceededtodrawhissupplies,foralltheworldasthoughhehadpaidforthem。Henceacontinuedtrafficontheroad。Somestalwartfellow,inaloin-cloth,andglisteningwithsweat,maybeseenatallhoursoftheday,astickacrosshisbareshoulders,trippingnervouslyunderadoubleburthenofgreenfruits。Andonthefarsideofthegapadozenstonepostsonthewaysideintheshadowofagrovemarkthebreathing-spaceofthepopoi-carriers。Alittlebackfromthebeach,andnothalfamilefromAnaho,Iwasthemoreamazedtofindaclusterofwell-doingbreadfruitsheavywiththeirharvest。
  ’Whydoyounottakethese?’Iasked。’Tapu,’saidHoka;andI
  thoughttomyselfafterthemannerofdulltravellerswhatchildrenandfoolsthesepeopleweretotoiloverthemountainanddespoilinnocentneighbourswhenthestaffoflifewasthusgrowingattheirdoor。Iwasthemoreinerror。Inthegeneraldestructionthesesurvivingtreeswereenoughonlyforthefamilyoftheproprietor,andbythesimpleexpedientofdeclaringatapuheenforcedhisright。
  Thesanctionofthetapuissuperstitious;andthepunishmentofinfractioneitherawastingoradeadlysickness。Aslowdiseasefollowsontheeatingoftapufish,andcanonlybecuredwiththebonesofthesamefishburnedwiththeduemysteries。Thecocoa-
  nutandbreadfruittapuworksmoreswiftly。Supposeyouhaveeatentapufruitattheeveningmeal,atnightyoursleepwillbeuneasy;
  inthemorning,swellingandadarkdiscolorationwillhaveattackedyourneck,whencetheyspreadupwardtotheface;andintwodays,unlessthecurebeinterjected,youmustdie。Thiscureispreparedfromtherubbedleavesofthetreefromwhichthepatientstole;sothathecannotbesavedwithoutconfessingtotheTahukuthepersonwhomhewronged。Intheexperienceofmyinformant,almostnotapuhadbeenputinuse,exceptthetwodescribed:hehadthusnoopportunitytolearnthenatureandoperationoftheothers;and,astheartofmakingthemwasjealouslyguardedamongsttheoldmen,hebelievedthemysterywouldsoondieout。IshouldaddthathewasnoMarquesan,butaChinaman,aresidentinthegroupfromboyhood,andareverentbelieverinthespellswhichhedescribed。Whitemen,amongstwhomAhFuincludedhimself,wereexempt;buthehadataleofaTahitianwoman,whohadcometotheMarquesas,eatentapufish,and,althoughuninformedofheroffenceanddanger,hadbeenafflictedandcuredexactlylikeanative。
  Doubtlessthebeliefisstrong;doubtless,withthisweaklyandfancifulrace,itisinmanycasesstrongenoughtokill;itshouldbestrongindeedinthosewhotaputheirtreessecretly,sothattheymaydetectadepredatorbyhissickness。Or,perhaps,weshouldunderstandtheideaofthehiddentapuotherwise,asapoliticdevicetospreaduneasinessandextortconfessions:sothat,whenamanisailing,heshallransackhisbrainforanypossibleoffence,andsendatonceforanyproprietorwhoserightshehasinvaded。’Hadyouhiddenatapu?’wemayconceivehimasking;andIcannotimaginetheproprietorgainsayingit;andthisisperhapsthestrangestfeatureofthesystem-thatitshouldberegardedfromwithoutwithsuchamentalandimplicitawe,and,whenexaminedfromwithin,shouldpresentsomanyapparentevidencesofdesign。
  WereadinDr。Campbell’sPOENAMOofaNewZealandgirl,whowasfoolishlytoldthatshehadeatenatapuyam,andwhoinstantlysickened,anddiedinthetwodaysofsimpleterror。TheperiodisthesameasintheMarquesas;doubtlessthesymptomsweresotoo。
  Howsingulartoconsiderthatasuperstitionofsuchswayispossiblyamanufacturedarticle;andthat,evenifitwerenotoriginallyinvented,itsdetailshaveplainlybeenarrangedbytheauthoritiesofsomePolynesianScotlandYard。Fitlyenough,thebeliefisto-day-andwasprobablyalways-farfromuniversal。
  Hellathomeisastrongdeterrentwithsome;apassingthoughtwithothers;withothers,again,athemeofpublicmockery,notalwayswellassured;andsointheMarquesaswiththetapu。Mr。
  Reglerhasseenthetwoextremesofscepticismandimplicitfear。
  Inthetapugrovehefoundonefellowstealingbreadfruit,cheerfulandimpudentasastreetarab;anditwasonlyonamenaceofexposurethatheshowedhimselftheleastdiscountenanced。Theothercasewasopposedineverypoint。Mr。Regleraskedanativetoaccompanyhimuponavoyage;themanwentgladlyenough,butsuddenlyperceivingadeadtapufishinthebottomoftheboat,leapedbackwithascream;norcouldthepromiseofadollarprevailuponhimtoadvance。
  TheMarquesan,itwillbeobserved,adherestotheoldideaofthelocalcircumscriptionofbeliefsandduties。Notonlyarethewhitesexemptfromconsequences;buttheirtransgressionsseemtobeviewedwithouthorror。ItwasMr。Reglerwhohadkilledthefish;yetthedevoutnativewasnotshockedatMr。Regler-onlyrefusedtojoinhiminhisboat。Awhiteisawhite:theservantsotospeakofotherandmoreliberalgods;andnottobeblamedifheprofitbyhisliberty。TheJewswereperhapsthefirsttointerruptthisancientcomityoffaiths;andtheJewishvirusisstillstronginChristianity。Alltheworldmustrespectourtapus,orwegnashourteeth。
  CHAPTERVII-HATIHEU
  THEbaysofAnahoandHatiheuaredividedattheirrootsbytheknife-edgeofasinglehill-thepasssooftenmentioned;butthisisthmusexpandstotheseawardinaconsiderablepeninsula:verybareandgrassy;hauntedbysheepand,atnightandmorning,bythepiercingcriesoftheshepherds;wanderedoverbyafewwildgoats;
  andonitssea-frontindentedwithlong,clamorouscaves,andfacedwithcliffsofthecolourandruinousoutlineofanoldpeat-stack。