_He_hasnothingagainst_him_,_but_the_suspicion_of_republicanprinciples_。Ithinkhewilloneday_beof_the_ministry_。Hisfoibleis,a_canineappetiteforpopularityandfame_;buthewillget_above_this。_TheCountdeVergennes_is_ill_。Thepossibilityofhis_recovery_,rendersitdangerousfor_ustoexpressadoubtofit:but_heis_indanger_。Heis_agreatminister_in_Europeanaffairs_,buthasvery_imperfectideas_of_ourinstitutions_,_andnoconfidencein_them。His_devotion_totheprinciplesof_puredespotism_,rendershim_unaffectionatetoourgovernments_。But_hisfear_of_Englandmakeshimvalueus_asa_makeweight_。Heis_cool,reservedinpoliticalconversations,butfreeandfamiliar_onother_subjects_,andavery_attentive,agreeableperson_to_dobusinesswith_。Itis_impossible_tohaveaclearer,better_organizedhead_;but_age_has_chilledhisheart_。Nothingshouldbespared,onourpart,toattachthiscountrytous。Itistheonlyoneonwhichwecanrelyforsupport,undereveryevent。Itsinhabitantsloveusmore,Ithink,thantheydoanyothernationonearth。ThisisverymuchtheeffectofthegooddispositionswithwhichtheFrenchofficersreturned。Inaformerletter,Imentionedtoyouthedislocationofmywrist。Icanmakenottheleastuseofit,exceptforthesinglearticleofwriting,thoughitisgoingonfivemonthssincetheaccidenthappened。Ihavegreatanxieties,lestIshouldneverrecoveranyconsiderableuseofit。Ishall,bytheadviceofmysurgeons,setoutinafortnightforthewatersofAix,inProvence。Ichosetheseoutofseveraltheyproposedtome,becauseiftheyfailtobeeffectual,myjourneywillnotbeuselessaltogether。ItwillgivemeanopportunityofexaminingthecanalofLanguedoc,andofacquiringknowledgeofthatspeciesofnavigation,whichmaybeusefulhereafter;butmoreimmediately,itwillenablemetomakethetouroftheportsconcernedincommercewithus,toexamine,onthespot,thedefectsofthelateregulationsrespectingourcommerce,tolearnthefurtherimprovementswhichmaybemadeinit,andonmyreturn,togetthisbusinessfinished。Ishallbeabsentbetweentwoandthreemonths,unlessanythinghappenstorecallmeheresooner,whichmayalwaysbeeffectedintendays,inwhateverpartofmyrouteImaybe。Inspeaking_ofcharacters_,Iomitted_thoseofReynevalandHennin_,the_twoeyes_of_CountdeVergennes_。The_former_isthemostimportant_character_,_becausepossessing_themostofthe_confidence_ofthe_Count_。_He_israther_cunning_
  than_wise_,hisviewsofthingsbeingneither_great_nor_liberal_。
  _Hegoverns_himselfby_principles_whichhehas_learned_by_rote_,andis_fitonly_forthe_details_of_execution_。_Hisheart_issusceptibleoflittle_passions_butnotof_goodones_。
  _He_is_brother_-_in_-_law_to_M_。_Gerard_,fromwhomhereceived_disadvantageousimpressions_of_us_,_which_cannotbe_effaced_。
  _He_hasmuch_duplicity_。_Hennin_isa_philosopher,sincere,friendly,liberal,learned,beloved_byeverybody;the_other_by_nobody_。I_think_itagreat_misfortune_thatthe_UnitedStates_
  areinthe_department_ofthe_former_。Asparticularsofthiskindmaybeusefultoyou,inyourpresentsituation,Imayhereaftercontinuethechapter。Iknowitwillbesafelylodgedinyourdiscretion。
  Feb。5。Sincewritingthusfar,_Franks_is_returned_from_England_。_Ilearn_that_Mr_。_Adams_desirestobe_recalled_,&
  that_Smith_shouldbe_appointedchargedesaffaires_there。Itisnotformetodecidewhetherany_diplomaticcharacter_shouldbe_kept_ata_court_,which_keeps_nonewith_us_。Youcanjudgeof_Smith’s_abilitiesby_hisletters_。Theyarenotofthe_firstorder_,buttheyare_good_。Forhis_honesty_,heislikeourfriend_Monroe_;turnhis_soul_wrongsideoutwards,andthereisnotaspeckonit。_He_hasone_foible_,an_excessiveinflammability_of_temper_,buthefeelsitwhenitcomeson,andhas_resolutionenough_to_suppress_it,andto_remainsilent_tillit_passes_over。
  IsendyoubyColo。Franks,yourpockettelescope,walkingstick&chemicalbox。Thetwoformercouldnotbecombinedtogether。
  Thelattercouldnotbehadintheformyoureferredto。Havingagreatdesiretohaveaportablecopyingmachine,&beingsatisfiedfromsomeexperimentsthattheprincipleofthelargemachinemightbeappliedinasmallone,IplannedonewheninEngland&haditmade。Itanswersperfectly。Ihavesincesetaworkmantomakingthemhere,&theyareinsuchdemandthathehashishandsfull。
  Beingassuredthatyouwillbepleasedtohaveone,whenyoushallhavetriedit’sconvenience,IsendyouonebyColo。Franks。Themachinecosts96livres,theappendages24livres,andIsendyoupaper&inkfor12livres;inall132livres。Thereisaprintedpaperofdirections;butyoumustexpecttomakemanyessaysbeforeyousucceedperfectly。Asoftbrush,likeashavingbrush,ismoreconvenientthanthesponge。Youcangetasmuchink&paperasyoupleasefromLondon。Thepapercostsaguineaaream。”THEEMPTYBUSTLEOFPARIS”
  _ToAnneWillingBingham_
  _Paris,February7,1787_
  Iknow,Madam,thatthetwelvemonthisnotyetexpired;butitwillbe,nearly,beforethiswillhavethehonorofbeingputintoyourhands。Youarethenengagedtotellme,trulyandhonestly,whetheryoudonotfindthetranquilpleasuresofAmerica,preferabletotheemptybustleofParis。Fortowhatdoesthatbustletend?Ateleveno’clock,itisday,_chezmadame_。Thecurtainsaredrawn。
  Proppedonbolstersandpillows,andherheadscratchedintoalittleorder,thebulletinsofthesickareread,andthebilletsofthewell。Shewritestosomeofheracquaintance,andreceivesthevisitsofothers。Ifthemorningisnotverythronged,sheisabletogetoutandhobbleroundthecageofthePalaisroyal;butshemusthobblequickly,forthe_coeffeur’s_turniscome;andatremendousturnitis!Happy,ifhedoesnotmakeherarrivewhendinnerishalfover!Thetorpitudeofdigestionalittlepassed,shefluttershalfanhourthroughthestreets,bywayofpayingvisits,andthentothespectacles。Thesefinished,anotherhalfhourisdevotedtododginginandoutofthedoorsofherverysincerefriends,andawaytosupper。Aftersupper,cards;andaftercards,bed;toriseatnoonthenextday,andtotread,likeamillhorse,thesametroddencircleoveragain。Thusthedaysoflifeareconsumed,onebyone,withoutanobjectbeyondthepresentmoment;
  everflyingfromtheennuiofthat,yetcarryingitwithus;
  eternallyinpursuitofhappiness,whichkeepseternallybeforeus。
  Ifdeathorbankruptcyhappentotripusoutofthecircle,itismatterforthebuzoftheevening,andiscompletelyforgottenbythenextmorning。InAmerica,ontheotherhand,thesocietyofyourhusband,thefondcaresforthechildren,thearrangementsofthehouse,theimprovementsofthegrounds,filleverymomentwithahealthyandanusefulactivity。Everyexertionisencouraging,becausetopresentamusement,itjoinsthepromiseofsomefuturegood。Theintervalsofleisurearefilledbythesocietyofrealfriends,whoseaffectionsarenotthinnedtocob-web,bybeingspreadoverathousandobjects。Thisisthepicture,inthelightitispresentedtomymind;nowletmehaveitinyours。Ifwedonotconcurthisyear,weshallthenext;orifnotthen,inayearortwomore。YouseeIamdeterminednottosupposemyselfmistaken。
  ToletyouseethatParisisnotchangedinitspursuits,sinceitwashonoredwithyourpresence,Isendyouitsmonthlyhistory。
  Butthisrelatingonlytotheembellishmentsoftheirpersons,Imustadd,thatthoseofthecitygoonwellalso。Anewbridge,forexample,isbegunatthePlaceLouisQuinze;theoldonesareclearingoftherubbishwhichencumberedthemintheformofhouses;
  newhospitalserecting;magnificentwallsofinclosure,andCustomhousesattheirentrances,&c。&c。&c。Iknowofnointerestingchangeamongthosewhomyouhonoredwithyouracquaintance,unlessMonsieurdeSaintJameswasofthatnumber。Hisbankruptcy,andtakingasylumintheBastile,havefurnishedmatterofaston-ishment。
  Hisgarden,atthePontdeNeuilly,where,onseventeenacresofgroundhehadlaidoutfiftythousandlouis,willprobablysellforsomewhatlessmoney。TheworkmenofParisaremakingrapidstridestowardsEnglishperfection。Wouldyoubelieve,thatinthecourseofthelasttwoyears,theyhavelearnedeventosurpasstheirLondonrivalsinsomearticles?Commissionmetohaveyouaphaetonmade,andifitisnotasmuchhandsomerthanaLondonone,asthatisthanaFiacre,senditbacktome。ShallIfilltheboxwithcaps,bonnets,&c。?Notofmyownchoosing,but——Iwasgoingtosay,ofMademoiselleBertin’s,forgettingforthemoment,thatshetooisbankrupt。Theyshallbechosenthenbywhomyouplease;or,ifyouarealtogethernonplusedbyhereclipse,wewillcallanAssembleedesNotables,tohelpyououtofthedifficulty,asisnowthefashion。Inshort,honormewithyourcommandsofanykind,andtheyshallbefaithfullyexecuted。ThepacketsnowestablishedfromHavretoNewYork,furnishgoodopportunitiesofsendingwhateveryouwish。
  IshallendwhereIbegan,likeaParisday,remindingyouofyourengagementtowritemealetterofrespectablelength,anengagementthemoreprecioustome,asithasfurnishedmetheoccasion,afterpresentingmyrespectstoMr。Bingham,ofassuringyouofthesincerityofthosesenti-mentsofesteemandrespect,withwhichIhavethehonortobe,DearMadam,yourmostobedientandmosthumbleservant,”ALITTLEREBELLIONNOWANDTHEN”
  _ToAbigailAdams_
  _Paris,Feb。22,1787_
  DEARMADAM——IamtoacknolegethehonorofyourletterofJan。29。andofthepapersyouweresogoodastosendme。TheywerethelatestIhadseenorhaveyetseen。Theyleftofftooinacriticalmoment;justatthepointwheretheMalcontentsmaketheirsubmissiononconditionofpardon,andbeforetheanswerofgovernmentwasknown。Ihopetheypardonedthem。Thespiritofresistancetogovernmentissovaluableoncertainoccasions,thatI
  wishittobealwayskeptalive。Itwilloftenbeexercisedwhenwrong,butbettersothannottobeexercisedatall。Ilikealittlerebellionnowandthen。ItislikeastormintheAtmosphere。
  ItiswonderfulthatnoletterorpapertellsuswhoispresidentofCongress,tho’therearelettersinParistothebeginningofJanuary。IsupposeIshallhearwhenIcomebackfrommyjourney,whichwillbeeightmonthsafterhewillhavebeenchosen。Andyettheycomplainofusfornotgivingthemintelligence。OurNotablesassembledto-day,andIhopebeforethedepartureofMr。CairnesI
  shallhaveheardsomethingoftheirproceedingsworthcommunicatingtoMr。Adams。Themostremarkeableeffectofthisconventionasyetisthenumberofpunsandbonmotsithasgenerated。IthinkweretheyallcollecteditwouldmakeamorevoluminousworkthantheEncyclopedie。Thisoccasion,morethananythingIhaveseen,convincesmethatthisnationisincapableofanyseriouseffortbutunderthewordofcommand。Thepeopleatlargevieweveryobjectonlyasitmayfurnishpunsandbonmots;andIpronouncethatagoodpunsterwoulddisarmthewholenationweretheyeversoseriouslydisposedtorevolt。Indeed,Madam,theyaregone。WhenameasuresocapableofdoinggoodasthecallingtheNotablesistreatedwithsomuchridicule,wemayconcludethenationdesperate,andincharitypraythatheavenmaysendthemgoodkings——ThebridgeattheplaceLouisXV。isbegun。Thehoteldieuistobeabandonedandnewonestobebuilt。Theoldhousesontheoldbridgesareinacourseofdemolition。ThisisallIknowofParis。WeareabouttolosetheCountd’Aranda,whohasdesiredandobtainedhisrecall。FernandNunnez,beforedestinedforLondonistocomehere。TheAbbesArnouxandChalutarewell。TheDutchessDanvillesomewhatrecoveredfromthelossofherdaughter。Mrs。Barrettveryhomesick,andfancyingherselfotherwisesick。TheywillprobablyremovetoHonfleur。Thisisallournews。IhaveonlytoaddthenthatMr。Cairneshastakenchargeof15。aunesofblacklaceforyouat9livrestheaune,purchasedbyPetitandthereforeIhopebetterpurchasedthansomethingshavebeenforyou;andthatIamwithsincereesteemDearMadamyouraffectionatehumbleservt。,THEMAISONCARREE
  _ToMadamedeTesse_
  _Nismes,March20,1787_
  HereIam,Madam,gazingwholehoursattheMaisonquarree,likealoverathismistress。Thestockingweaversandsilkspinnersaroundit,considermeasahypochondriacEnglishman,abouttowritewithapistol,thelastchapterofhishistory。ThisisthesecondtimeIhavebeeninlovesinceIleftParis。ThefirstwaswithaDianaattheChateaudeLaye-EpinayeinBeaujolois,adeliciousmorselofsculpture,byM。A。Slodtz。This,youwillsay,wasarule,tofallinlovewithafemalebeauty:butwithahouse!Itisoutofallprecedent。No,Madam,itisnotwithoutaprecedent,inmyownhistory。WhileinParis,IwasviolentlysmittenwiththeHoteldeSalm,andusedtogototheThuileriesalmostdaily,tolookatit。The_loueusedeschaises_,inattentivetomypassion,neverhadthecomplaisancetoplaceachairthere,sothatsittingontheparapet,andtwistingmyneckroundtoseetheobjectofmyadmiration,Igenerallyleftitwitha_torti_-_colli_。
  FromLyonstoNismesIhavebeennourishedwiththeremainsofRomangrandeur。Theyhavealwaysbroughtyoutomymind,becauseI
  knowyouraffectionforwhateverisRomanandnoble。AtVienneI
  thoughtofyou。ButIamgladyouwerenotthere;foryouwouldhaveseenmemoreangrythan,Ihope,youwilleverseeme。ThePraetorianpalace,asitiscalled,comparable,foritsfineproportions,totheMaisonquarree,defacedbythebarbarianswhohaveconvertedittoitspresentpurpose,itsbeautifulflutedCorinthiancolumnscutout,inpart,tomakespaceforGothicwindows,andheweddown,intheresidue,totheplaneofthebuilding,wasenough,youmustadmit,todisturbmycomposure。AtOrangetoo,Ithoughtofyou。Iwassureyouhadseenwithpleasure,thesublimetriumphalarchofMariusattheentranceofthecity。I
  wentthentotheArenae。Wouldyoubelieve,Madam,thatinthiseighteenthcentury,inFrance,underthereignofLouisXVI。theyareatthismomontpullingdownthecircularwallofthissuperbremain,topavearoad?Andthattoofromahillwhichisitselfanentiremassofstone,justasfit,andmoreaccessible?Aformerintendant,aM。deBasvillehasrenderedhismemorydeartothetravellerandamateur,bythepainshetooktopreserveandrestorethesemonumentsofantiquity。ThepresentoneIdonotknowwhoheisisdemolishingtheobject,tomakeagoodroadtoit。Ithoughtofyouagain,andIwastheningreatgoodhumor,atthePontduGard,asublimeantiquity,andwellpreserved。Butmostofallhere,whereRomantaste,geniusandmagnificence,exciteideasanalogoustoyoursateverystep。Icouldnolongeropposetheinclinationtoavailmyselfofyourpermissiontowritetoyou,apermissiongivenwithtoomuchcomplaisancebyyou,andusedbyme,withtoomuchindiscretion。MadamedeTottdidmethesamehonor。Butshe,beingonlythedescendantofsomeofthosepunyheroeswhoboiledtheirownkettlesbeforethewallsofTroy,IshallwritetoherfromaGrecian,ratherthanaRomancanton:whenIshallfindmyself,forexampleamongherPhocaeanrelationsatMarseilles。