Fromyou，mydearBasil，theconfidantofmyhopestowardNoto，I
　　knowImaylookforsympathynowthatmyadvanceshavemetwithsuchhappyissue，howeverincompletebemyaccount。AndsoIaskyoutobemybestmaninthematterbeforetheworld。
　　Everyours，PercivalLowell。
　　BasilHallChamberlain，Esq。
　　Contents。
　　I。AnUnknown。
　　II。OffandOn。
　　III。TheUsuiPass。
　　IV。Zenkoji。
　　V。No。
　　VI。OnaNewCorniceRoad。
　　VII。OyaShiradzu，KoShiradzu。
　　VIII。AcrosstheEtchiuDelta。
　　IX。OvertheArayamaPass。
　　X。AnInlandSea。
　　XI。Anamidzu。
　　XII。AtSeaAgain。
　　XIII。OntheNotoHighway。
　　XIV。TheHarinokiToge。
　　XV。TowardthePass。
　　XVI。Riuzanjita。
　　XVII。OvertheSnow。
　　XVIII。AGenialInkyo。
　　XIX。OurPassportandtheBasha。
　　XX。DowntheTenriugawa。
　　XXI。TotheSea。
　　NOTO：anunexploredcornerofJapan。
　　I。AnUnknown。
　　ThefancytookmetogotoNoto。
　　Itseemedastrangefancytomyfriends。
　　YetImakenoapologyforit;foritwasacaseofloveatfirstsight。
　　Scanning，oneevening，inTokyo，themapofJapan，inavague，itineraryway，withthelookonefirstgivestothecrowdoffacesinaballroom，myeyewascaughtbytheposeofaprovincethatstoodoutingraphicmysteryfromthewesterncoast。Itmadeastrikingfigurethere，withitsdeep-bosomedbaysanditsboldheadlands。Itsname，itappeared，wasNoto;andthenametoopleasedme。Ilikeditsvowelcolor;Ilikeditsconsonantform，theliquidnandthedecisivet。
　　Whimsically，ifyouplease，itsuggestedbothwomanlinessandwill。
　　ThemoreIlookedthemoreIlonged，untilthedesirecarriedmenotsimplyoffmyfeet，butontothem。
　　Nobodyseemedtoknowmuchaboutmyinamorata。Indeed，thoseIaskedaskedme，intheirownwantofinformation，whyIwent，andwhattherewastosee：ofwhichquestions，theseconditselfdidforanswertothefirst。WhynotinfacthavesetmyheartongoingtoNotojustbecauseitwasnotknown！Notthatitiswelltobelievealltheunseentobemuchworththeseeing，butthatIhadanitchingsoletotreadwhatothershadnotalreadyeffacinglybetrodden。
　　Privately，Iwasdelightedwiththegenerallackofknowledgeonthesubject。Itservedadmirablytoputmeinconceitwithmychoice;
　　althoughIwillownIwasratheratalosstoaccountforit，andI
　　canonlyexplainitnowbythefactthattheplacewassooutoftheway，andnotveryunlikeothers，afterall。Beingthuscandid，I
　　oughtperhapstogoastepfartherandrenouncethename。But，onthetwogreatprinciplesthatthepursuitisitselftheprizeandthatthemeansjustifiestheend，Iprefertokeepit。Fortherewasmuchofinteresttomebytheway;andIclingtothenameoutofakindofloyaltytomyownfancy。IliketothinkthatXenophonfeltasmuchinhisAnabasis，thoughbutonebookoutofsevendealswiththegoingup，theothersixbeingoccupiedwiththegettingsafelyawayagain。ItisnottoldthatXenophonregrettedhisadventure。
　　CertainlyIamnotsorryIwasweddedtomyidea。
　　TomostofmyacquaintanceNotowasscarcelysomuchasaname，anditslocalhabitationwaspurelycartographic。Ifoundbutonemanwhohadbeenthere，andhehaddroppeddownuponit，bywayofharbor，fromaboat。Somesympatheticsouls，however，wentsofartowarditastoaskwhereitwas。
　　TothewestwardofTokyo，sofarwestthatthesettingsunnolongerseemstoloseitselfamongthemountains，butplungesforgoodandallstraightintotheshiningNirvanaofthesea，astrangelyshapedpromontorymakesoutfromtheland。ItistheprovinceofNoto，standingaloneinpeninsularisolation。
　　Itwaspartlyinthispositionthatthefascinationlay。Withdrawnfromitsfellows，withitsbacktotheland，itfacedthegloryofthewesternsky，asifinvirginalvisiongazingoutuponthedeep。
　　Doublywithdrawnisit，forthatthecoastfromwhichitstandsapartisitselfalmostunvisitedbyEuropeans，——anout-of-the-worldstate，inmarkedcontrasttotheshoreborderingthePacific，whichisnowacurbstoneonthegreatwaterwayroundtheearth，andincidentallymakesahappyparenthesisofpromenadeforthehastyglobe-trotter。
　　Theform，too，ofthepeninsulacameinforashareinitsattraction。
　　Itscoastlinewassocoquettishlyirregular。Ifitturneditsbackontheland，itstretcheditshandsouttothesea，onlytowithdrawthemagainthenextmoment，——adoubleinvitation。Indeed，thereisnohappierlinkingoflandtowater。Thenavigatorinsuchpartsbecomeshimselfadelightfullyamphibiouscreature，athomeinbothelements。Shouldhetireoftheone，hecanalwaystaketotheother。
　　Besides，suchfeaturesinacoastsuggestacertainclean-cutcharacterofprofile，——apromise，inJapanatleast，rarelyunkept。
　　Toreachthistopographicallycharmingprovince，themainislandhadtobecrossedatitswidest，and，owingtoloftymountainchains，muchtackingtobedonetoboot。Atmosphericallythedistanceisevengreaterthanafoot。Indeed，thechangeinclimateislikeachangeinzone;forthetrendofthemainislandatthispoint，beingnearlyeastandwest，givestotheonecoastasoutherlyexposure，andtotheotheranortherlyone，whilethehighestwallofpeaksinJapan，theHida-Shinshiurange，shutsoffmostmeteorologicalcommunication。LongafterTokyoisbaskinginspring，thewestcoaststillliesburiedindeepdriftsofsnow。
　　Itwasmymisfortunetogotothisout-of-the-wayspotalone。Iwasdulysensibleofmycommiserablestateattimes。Indeed，inthosestrangeflashesofdualconsciousnesswhenamanseeshisownconditionasifitwereanother’s，Ipitiedmyselfrightheartily;
　　forIholdthattravelislikelifeinthis，atleast，thatacongenialcompaniondividesthetroublesanddoublesthejoys。
　　Topleaseone’sselfissomuchharderthantobepleasedbyanother;
　　andwhenitcomestodoubtanddifficulty，therearedrawbackstobeingone’sownguide，philosopher，andfriend。Thetreatmentistoohomoeopathicbyhalf。
　　AnexcuseforacompanionexistedinthepersonofmyJapaneseboy，orcook。Hehadbeenboytomeyearsbefore;andonthisreturnofhisformermastertothelandoftheenlightened，hehadcomebacktohisallegiance，promotinghimselftothepostofcook。Duringthejourneyheactedinbothcapacitiesindifferently，——inonesense，notintheother。Inadditiontobeingcapablehewaswillingandofgreatendurance。Besides，hewaspassionatelyfondoftravel。
　　HeknewnomoreaboutNotothanI，andattimes，ontheroad，hecouldnotmakeoutwhatthecountryfolksaid，forthedifferenceindialect;
　　whichlackofspecialqualificationmuchincreasedhischarmasafellow-traveler。HeneitherspokenorunderstoodEnglish，ofcourse，andsurprisedme，aftersurprisinghimself，onthelastdaybutoneofourtrip，bycomingoutwiththewords"allright。"Hissurname，appropriatelyenough，meantmountain-rice-field，andhislastname——whichweshouldcallhisfirstname——wasYejiro，orlucky-younger-son。Besidescookingexcellentlywell，hemadepaperplumblossomsbeautifully，andonceconstructedastringtelephoneoutofhisownhead。Imentionthesesamplesofaccomplishmenttoshowthathewasnomeredabblerinpotsandpans。
　　Inadditiontohisvariousculinarycontrivanceswetookalargeandmotleystockofcannedfood，someofhisownhome-madebread，andabottleofwhiskey。Welaidinbutasmallsupplyofbeer;notthatIpurposedtoforegothatagreeablebeverage，butbecause，inthisEuropeanizedage，itcanbegotinallthelargertowns。Indeed，thebeerbrewedinYokohamato-dayrankswiththebestintheworld。
　　ItisingreatdemandinTokyo，whileitsimported，orprofessedlyimported，rivalshavefreelypercolatedintotheinterior，sopopularwiththeupperanduppermiddleclasseshavemaltliquorsbecome。
　　Nowadays，whenaJapanesethinkstogoinforCapuandissipationregardlessofexpense，hetreatshimselftoabottleofbeer。
　　Theselarder-likedetailsarenotmeanttoimplythatImadeagodofmypalate，butthatotherwisemydigestionwouldhaveplayedthedevilwithme。InJapan，toattempttoliveoffthecountryinthecountryisapieceofamateuractingtheaverageEuropeanbitterlyregretsaftertheplay，ifnotduringitsperformance。Wearenotinwardlycontrivedtothrivesolelyonriceandpickles。
　　Itisbest，too，forajourneyintotheinterior，totakewithyouyourownbedding;sheets，thatis，andblankets。ThebeditselfYejiroeasilyimprovisedoutofinnumerablefutons，asthequiltsusedatnightbytheJapanesearecalled。Asingleoneisenoughforanative，butYejiro，withpraiseworthyzeal，madeapracticeofaskingforhalf-a-dozen，whichhepiledoneupontheotherinthemiddleoftheroom。Eachhadaperceptiblethicknessandaroundedloglikeedge;andwhenthetimecameforturninginontopofthelot，IwasalwaysremindedofthelatterendofaGrecianhero，thestructurelookedsolikeafuneralpyre。Whentotheaboveindispensableswereaddedclothes，camera，dryplates，books，andsundries，itmadeacollectionofhouseholdgodsquiteappallingtoconsideronthemarch。IhadnoideaIownedhalfsomuchintheworldfromwhichitwouldpainmetobeparted。Asmypropertylayspreadoutforpacking，Istaredatitaghast。
　　Totransportallthesebelongings，nativeingenuitysuggestedathingcalledayanagigori;severalofthem，infact。Nowtheconstructionofakoriiselementallyingenious。Itconsistssimplyoftwowickerbaskets，ofthesameshape，butofslightlydifferentsize，fittingintoeachotherupsidedown。Thetwoarethentiedtogetherwithcord。
　　Thebeautyoftheidealiesinitsextension;forinproportionasthetwocoversarepulledoutorpushedhomewillthepairholdfromamaximumcapacityofbothtoaminimumcapacityofone。Itispossibleeventostartwithmorethanamaximum，ifthecontentsbesuchasarenotgiventofallingoutbytheway。Thecontrivanceissimplyinvaluablewhenitcomestotransportingfood;forthen，asyoueatyourwaydown，theobligingcoversshrinktomeetthevacuum。
　　Ifmorethanonekoribenecessary，aneasystepindevicesleadstoaseriesofgradedsizes。Thenallyourbasketseventuallycollapseintoone。
　　Thelastbutmostimportantarticleofallwasmypassport，whichcarefullydescribedmyproposedroute，andwhichYejiroatoncetookchargeofandcarriedaboutwithhimforimmediateservice;forawisepaternalgovernmentinsisteduponknowingmyintentionsbeforepermittingmetovisittheobjectofmychoice。
　　II。
　　OffandOn。
　　Itwasonthedaybutonebeforethefestivalofthefifthmoonthatwesetout，or，inEnglish，thethirdofMay;andthoseemblemsofgoodluck，thefestivalfishes，werealreadyswimmingintheairabovethehouseeaves，aswescurriedthroughthestreetsinjinrikishatowardtheUyenorailwaystation。Wehadbeenalittlebehindhandinstarting，butbyextraexertionsonthepartoftherunnerswesucceededinreachingthestationjustintimetobeshutoutbythegatekeeper。TimehavingbeentheonethingworthlessinoldJapan，itwastrulysarcasticoffatethatweshouldreachourfirstgoaltoolate。Asiftopointchagrin，thetrainstillstoodinwaiting。Remonstranceswiththewicketmanabouttheimportedfive-minuteregulation，orwhateveritwas，provedofnoavail。
　　Notonejotortittleoftherulewouldheyield，whichperhapswasnatural，inasmuchas，howeverwemighthavemanagedalone，ourcompanionsthebasketsnevercouldhaveboardedthetrainwithoutofficalhelp。Theintrinsicmeritsofthebaggagefailed，alas，toaffectitsmobility。Thenthetrainslowlydrewout。
　　Tobestoppedontheroadisthecommonlotoftravelers;buttobestoppedbeforeonehasfairlystartedisnothinglessthantobemockedat。Itisbest，however，totakesuchgibesingoodpart。
　　Viewingthesituationinthislight，theludicrousnessofthedisconnectionstruckmesoforciblyasverynearlytoconsolemeformyloss，whichwasnottrifling，sincethenexttraindidnotleaveforabovethreehours;toolatetopushonbeyondTakasakithatnight，athingIhadmostfirmlypurposedtodo。HereIwas，themiserablevictimofapunctualitymyownpeoplehadfoistedonalandonlytoohappywithoutit！Therewaspoeticjusticeinthesituation，afterall。
　　Besides，thecourseofone’strueloveshouldnotruntoosmooth。
　　Judiciousdifficultywhetsdesire。
　　Therewasnothingtoturntoonthespot，andIwasashamedtogohome。
　　ThenIopportunelyrememberedsomething。
　　Ihavealwaysthoughtwelimitedourpharmacopoeia。Weprescribepillsenoughforthebody，whileweleavethemindtolookafteritself。
　　Whyshouldnotthespiritalsohaveitsdraughtsandmixtures，properlylabeledanddispensed！Forexample，anglingappearstobeastrongmentalopiate。Ihaveseenotherwisenormalpeoplestupefiedbeyondexpressionwhenatthebuttofarodandline。Happeningtorecallthiseffect，Iinstantlyprescribedformyperturbedstateofmindagooddoseoffishing，tobetakenassuitedtheday。SoI
　　betookmedownaby-street，wheretheaerialcarppromisedthethickest，and，selectingahousewellplacedforaview，askedpermissiontomountupontheroof。Itchancedtobeacast-offclothingshop，alongwhosefrontsomefine，ifaged，garmentswerehungtocatchthepubliceye。ThecameraandIwereinducteduptheascentbytheowner，whilemyboots，ofcourse，waiteddog-likeintheporchbelow。
　　Thecitymadeaspectaclefromabove。Onallsidessuperbpapercarpfloatedtothebreeze，tuggingatthestringsthatheldthemtothepolesquiteafterthemanneroftherealfish。Onefeltasthough，byaccident，hehadsteppedintosomemammothglobeofgoldfish。
　　Thewholeskywasalivewiththem。Eightysquaremilesoffinnyfolkinsidethecity，andanuntoldcompanywithout。Thecounterfeitpresentmentswerefromfivetotenfeetlong，andpaintedtomimiclife。Thebreezeenteredatthemouthandpassedoutsomewhatlessfreelyatthetail，thuskeepingthemwellbelliedandconstantlyinmotion。Thewaytheyroseanddoveandturnedandwriggledwasworthyoffreewill。Indeed，theyhadeverylookofspontaneity，andlackedonlythethingitselftoturntheskyintoanocean，andTokyointoaseabottomwitharockeryofroof。Eachfishcommemoratesthebirthofaboyduringtheyear。Itwouldthusbepossibletotakeacensusoftheincreaseofthemalepopulationyearly，atthetriflingcostofscalingahousetop，——asetofstatisticsnotwithoutaneventualvalue。
　　Whilewewerestrollingback，YejiroandI，wecame，intheway，uponanotherspeciesoffish。Thebait，whichwaswelldesignedtocaptivate，badeforthemomenttoexceedeventheangler’santicipations。Itwasasortofun-Christmastreewithfishing-polebranches，fromwhichdangledarticulatedfigures，bodiedlikemen，butwithheadsoffoxes，tortoises，andotherlesslikelybeasts，——bewitchingobjectsinimpossibleevolutiontoabald-patedurchinwhostoodgazingatitwithallhissoul。Thepeddlersatwithhiseyesrivetedontheboy，visionsofapossiblecatchchasingthemselvesthroughhisbrain。Iwatchedhim，whilethecrowdbehindstaredatme。Wemadequiteatailofcuriosity。Theopiatewashavingitseffect;Ibegantofeelsoporificallycalm。ThenIwentuptotherestaurantintheparkandhadlunchasquietlyaspossible，infearoffriendlydiscovery。
　　Sufficientlypunctualpassengersbeingnowpermittedtoboardthenexttrain，Iensconcedmyselfinakindofparlorcompartment，which，fortunately，Icontinuedtohavealltomyself，andwassoonbeingrolledwestwardacrossthegreatMusashiplain，ruminating。Mychiefquarrelwithrailwayrulesis，Iaminclinedtothink，thattheypreachtothepublicwhattheyfailtopracticethemselves。Afterhavingdeniedmeapaltryfiveminutes’graceatthestation，theofficialsproceededtolosehalfanhourontheroadinamostexasperatingmanner。Ofcoursethedelaywasquiteexceptional。
　　Suchathinghadneverhappenedbefore，andwouldnothappenagain——tillthenexttime。Butthephenomenalcharacteroftheoccurrencefailedtoconsoleme，asitshouldnodoubthavedone。
　　Mydelay，too，wasexceptional——onthisline。NorwasIproperlymollifiedbyrepeatedoffersofhard-boiledeggs，cakes，andoranges，whichcertainenterprisingpeddlershawkedupanddowntheplatforms，whenwestopped，toarhythmicchantoftheirowninvention。
　　TheonlyconsolationlayinthememoryofwhattravelovertheMusashiplainusedtobebeforetrainshurriedone，orotherwise，intotheheartoftheland。Inthosedaysthejourneywasdoneinjinrikisha，andaquestionofdays，nothours，itwasinthedoing，——twodays’worthofbabycarriage，ofwhichthetediousnesslayneitherinthevehiclesnorintheway，butintheamountofboth。
　　Or，ifoneputcomparativespeedabovecomparativecomfort，herosebeforethelark，tobetorturedthroughasummer’sdayinabasha，orhorsevehicle，suitableonlyfordisembodiedspirits。Myjointsachedagainatthethought。Clearly，togrumblenowwastosinagainstproportion。
　　Besides，theweatherwasperfect：argosiesoffleecycloudsailingslowlyacrossadeepbluesky;abroadplaininallitsspringfreshnessofcolor，pickedouthereandtherewithfruittreessmotheredinblossom，andbearingonitsbosomthepassingshadowsofthecloudsabove;inthedistancethegraduallygrowingformsofthemountains，eachatfirststartingintolifeonlyasafaintwashofcolor，barelytobepartedfromtheskyitself，prickingupfromoutthehorizonoffield。Then，slowly，timedtoouradvance，thetintgatheredsubstance，grewintocontraststhat，deepeningminutebyminute，resolvedintodetail，untilatlastthewholestoodrevealedinallitsmajesty，foothill，shoulder，peak，onegrandchromaticrisefromgreentoblue。
　　Oneaftertheotherthepointscameoutthusalongthesouthernsky：
　　firstthesummitsbehindOme;thenBukosan，likesomesentinel，half-wayuptheplain’slongside;andthenrangebeyondrangestretchingtowardthewest。BehindBukosanpeepedCloud’sRest，theverysameoutlineinfaintertint，solikethedoublereflectionfromapaneofglassthatIhadtoshifttoanopenwindowtomakesureitwasnoillusion。ThentheNikkogroupbegantoshowontheright，andtheHarunamasstookforminfront;andastheyrosehigherandthesunbeamsslantedmore，gildingthemotesintheheavyafternoonair，theyrimmedtheplaininfrontintoonegreatbowloffairyeaudeviedeDantzic。Slowlyabovethemthesundippedtohissetting，straightahead，burnishingourpathaswepursuedintwolonglinesofflashingrailintothewest-northwest。Lowerhesank，luringuson，andloweryet，andthensuddenlydisappearedbeyondthebarrierofpeaks。
　　Thetraindrewup，panting。ItwasTakasaki，nowsteepedinsaffronafterglow。Theguardspassedalong，callingoutthenameandunfasteningthedoors。Everybodygotoutandshuffledoffontheirclogs。Thebaskets，Yejiro，andIfollowed，afteralittle，throughthegloaming。
　　Itwasnotfartotheinn。Itwasjustfarenough，atthathour，toputusinheartforahousing。Indeed，twilightisthetimeoftimestoarriveanywhere。Anyspot，beiteversohomely，seemshomelikethen。Theduskhassnatchedfromyouthesilentcompanionshipofnature，toleaveyoupoignantlyalone。Itisthehourwhenamandrawsclosertotheoneheloves，andthehourwhenmostheshrinksfromhimself，thoughhewantanothernear。Itisthentheraysofthehouselightswanderabroadandappeartobeckonthehouselessin;andthatmustbe，intruth，asorryhostelrytoseemsuchtohim。
　　EvenTakasakiborealookofwelcomealiketotheforeignandthenativestranger，whichwascertainlywonderfulforTakasaki。Theplaceusednottofancyforeigners，anditsinnsbandiedtheEuropeantraveleraboutlikeabaleofundesirablemerchandisewiththedutiesstilldue。Butnow，whatachange！Theinnkeepernotonlyreceivedus，butledthewayatoncetothebestroom，——aroominthesecondstoryofthefireproofstorehouseattheback，whichhehopedwouldbecomfortable。Comfortable！Theroomactuallyprofferedusatableandchairs。Noonewhohasnot，afteralongday’stramp，soughtinvaintoresthiswe...剩余内容请长按扫描二维码或下载丁香书院APP继续免费看：

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