Forsomeminutespastastrange,far-awaymusicalnote,likethemurmurofrunningwater,hadstruckmyear,andyetallabouteverythinglookeddead。Ofanimateoreveninanimatepulsationtherewasnosign。OneunbrokensheetofsnowstretchedasfarasIcouldsee,inwhichstoodthegreattreeslikemummies。Stillthesoundcontinued,seemingtocomefromundermyfeet。Istopped,and,kneelingdown,putmyeartothecrust,andthere,asdistinctaspossible,Iheardthewimplingofababybrook,crooningtoitselfunderitsthickwhiteblanket。Herethenwasthecradleofoneofthosestreamsthatlaterwouldbecomesuchanuglycustomertomeet。
  Itwasbabilyinnocentnow,andtheonelivingthingbesidemyselfonthisMaydayinthegreatsnow-sheetedsolitude。
  Perhapsitwasthebrookthathadunderminedthesnow。Atallevents,soonafterIovertooktheothers,theguide,fearingtotrusttoitfarther,suddenlystruckupagaintotheleft。Weallfollowed,remonstrating。Wehadnosoonergotupthanwewentdownagaintheotherside,andthispicket-fencestyleofprogresscontinuedtillweemergeduponthetopofacertainspur,whichcommandedafineviewofgorges。Unfortunatelyweourselveswereontopofsomeofthem。
  Theguidereconnoiteredbothsidesforadescent,pushinghiswaythroughathickgrowthofdwarfbamboo,andbroughtupeachtimeontheedgeofanimpassablefalltothestreambelow。Atlasthetooktothearete。Itwasmaskedbytreesforsomedistance,andthencameoutasabareknifeedgeofrockandearth。Downitwescrambled,tilltheslopetothesidebecamepassable。Thiswasnowmuchlesssteep,althoughstillsteepenoughfortheguidetomakemehaltbehindatree,forfearofthestonesdislodgedbythosebehind。
  Thesecamedownpastuslikecannon-balls,ricochettingbybigbounds。
  Atthebottomwereachedthestream,andbesideitwehaltedforlunch。Justbelowourrestingplaceanotherstreamjoinedourown,bothcomingdownforbidding-lookingvalleys,shutinbysavagepeaks。
  Onthedelta,betweenthewaters,wemadeoutabandofhunters,threeofthem,tarryingafteranunsuccessfulchase。Thislastwasageneralinference,ratherthananobservedfact。
  Thespotwasidealforpicturesquepurposes,——thewaterclearascrystal,andthesunshinesparkling。Butotherwisematterswentillwithus。Ourextemporeguidehadpromisedus,overhisownfiretheeveningbefore,asingledayofittoArimine。Ontheroadhisestimateofthetimeneededhadincreasedalarmingly。Fromdirectquestioningitnowappearedthatheintendedtocampoutonthemountainopposite,whosesnowyslopeswerepainfullypropheticofwhatthatnightwouldbe。Besides,thismeantanotherdayofittoArimine;andevenwhenwereachedArimine,wewerenowhere,andIwasscantoftime。Wehadalreadylostthreedays;ifwekepton,I
  foresawthelossofmore。Itwasverydishearteningtoturnback,butithadtobedone。
  OurobjectnowwastostriketheAshikuratrailandfollowitdown。
  Theguide,however,wasnotsureofthepath,sowehailedthehunters。Oneofthemcameacrossthedeltatotheedgeofthestreamwithinshoutingdistance,andfromhimweobtainedknowledgeoftheway。
  Atfirstthepathwasunadventurousenough,thoughdistressinglyrough。Intruth,itwasnopathatall;itwasanabstractdirection。Itledstraighton,regardlessoffooting,andwefollowed,nowwadingthroughswamps,nowstumblingoverroots,nowduckingfromwhip-liketwigsthatcutusacrosstheface,untilatlastweemergedabovethestream,anduponasceneasgrandlydesolateasthemostmorbidmisanthropemightwish。Amassofbouldersofallsizes,fromabarntoacobblestone,completelyfilledachasmatthebaseofasemicircularwallofcastellatedclaycliffs。Intothepitwedescended。Thepinnaclesabovewereimpressivelyhigh,andbetweenthemwerecouloirsofdebristhatlookedtoustobeasperpendicularasthecliffs。Uponeofthesebreakneckslidestheguidepointedforourpath。Portersandall,wedemurred。Path,ofcourse,therewasnone;therewasnotevenanapologyforasuspicionthatanyonehadeverbeenupordowntheplace。Wefeltsuretheremustbesomeotherwayout。Themorewesearched,however,thelesswefound。Thestream,whichwasanimpassabletorrent,barredexitbelowonoursidebyrunningstraightintothewallofrock。Theslidewasanuglyclimbtocontemplate,yetwelookedatitsometimebeforeweacceptedtheinevitable。
  Whenindesperationwefinallymadeupourminds,webeganpickingourdubiouswayupamongamassofrocksthatthreatenedtobecomeastoneavalancheatanymoment。Noneofuslikedit,butnoneofusknewhowlittletheotherslikedittillthatevening。Intheexpansionofsuccessweadmittedourpastfeelings。Onepoorportersaidhethoughthislasthourhadcome,andmostofusbelievedanearfuturewithoutusnotimprobable。Itshowshowdangerunlockstheheartthatjustbecause,halfwayup,Ihadrelievedthismanofhisstick,whichfromahelphadbecomeahindrance,hefelttowardmeanexaggeratedgratitude。Itwasnothingformetodo,forIwasfree,whilehehadhisload,buthadIreallysavedhislifehecouldnothavebeenmorebeholden。Indeed,itwasatimetointensifyemotion。
  Aswescrambledupwardonallfours,theascent,fromfamiliarity,grewlessformidable。Atleastthestonesdecreasedinsize,althoughtheirtiltremainedthesame,buttheanglelookedlesssteepfromabovethanfrombelow。
  Atlast,oneaftertheother,wereachedaplacetothesideoftheneckofthecouloir,andscramblingroundthecopingofturfatthetopemerged,tooursurprise,uponapath,orratherupontheghostofone。Forwefoundourselvesuponanarrowridgeofsoilbetweentwochasms,endinginapinnacleofclay,andalongthisribbonoflandranapath,perfectlypreservedforperhapsascoreofpacesout,whenitbrokeoffbodilyinmid-air。Theuntowardlookofthewaywehadcomestoodexplained。Hereclearlyhadbeenacataclysmwithinitinerarytimes。Somegiganticlandslidemusthaveslicedthemountainoffintothegorgebelow,andinsteadofapathwehadbeenfollowingitsstillunlaidphantom。Thenew-borncharacterofthechasmexplaineditsshockingnakedness。Butitwasanuncomfortablesighttoseeapathinallitsentiretyvanishsuddenlyintothevoid。
  Theuncutendoftheformertrailledbacktoalittletablelandsupportingapatchoftillingandtenantedbyanuninhabitedhut。
  TheWillowMoortheycalledit,thoughitseemedhardlybigenoughtobearaname。Onreconnoitringforthedescent,wefoundthefarthersidefallenawaylikethefirst;sothattheplateauwasnowcutofffromalldecentapproach。Oneofus,atlast,struckthebuttendofapath;butwehadnotgonefardownitbeforeitbrokeoff,anddeliveredustothegullies。Thisside,however,wasmuchbetterthantheother,andittooknoneofusverylongtoslipdowntheslope,repairthebridge,andjointheAshikuratrail。
  Wewerenowoncemoreonthepathwehadcomeup,withthecertaintyofbadplacesinsteadoftheiruncertaintyaheadofus,adoubtfulbetterment。TheOnigaJolayinwaitroundthecorner,andtherestofthefamiliardevilswouldallappearinduecourseoftime。
  Tiedovermybootswerethestrawsandalsofthecountry。Theywerenotmadetobewornthus,andshowedgreatuneasinessintheirnewposition,dowhatwemightwiththethongs。Everybodytriedhishandatit,firstandlast;butthefidgetythingsalwaysendedbycomingoffatthetoeortheheel,orsluingroundtothesidetilltheywereworsethanuseless。Theyweresupposedtopreventonefromslipping,whichnodoubttheywouldhavedonehadtheynotbegunbyslippingoffthemselves。Theyworethemselvesoutbytheirnervousness,andhadtoberenewedeverylittlewhilefromthestocktheporterscarried。InhonoroftheOnigaJoIhadafreshpairputonbesidethebrooksacredtothememoryofmypocket-handkerchief。WethenrosetotheDevilPlace,andthreadeditinsinglefile。Whetheritwerethecompanionship,orfamiliarity,orsimplythatmyrightsideinsteadofmyleftnextthecliffgavegreaterseemingsecurity,I
  gotoveritashademorecomfortablythistime,thoughitwasstillfarfrommyidealofanafternoon’swalk。Theroadtothenextworldbranchedofftoodisturbinglytotheleft。
  Atlastthepathdescendedtotheriverbottomforgood。Isatdownonastone,pulledoutmytobaccopouch,andlitapipe。Theporterspassedonoutofsight。ThenItrudgedalongmyself。Thetensionofthelasttwodayshadsuddenlyceased,andintheexpansionofspiritthatensuedIwasconsciousofavoid。Iwantedsomeonewithmethen,perhaps,morethanIevercravedcompanionshipbefore。Thegreatgorgeaboutmelayfilledtothebrimwithpurpleshadow。Idrankinthecoolshade-scentedairateverybreath。Theforest-coveredmountainsides,patchedhigherupwithsnowinthegullies,shutouttheworld。Onlyagildedbithereandthereonsomeloftyspurlingeredtohintasunbeyond。Thestripofpaleblueskyfaroverheadbowedtomeetthevistaofthevalleybehind,avistaofpeaksmoreandmoresnow-clad,tilltheviewwasblockedatlastbyawhite,nun-veiledsummit,flushednow,inthelateafternoonlight,toatenderrose。Paststrainhadleftthespirit,aspastfatigueleavesthebody,exquisitelyconscious;andmyfancycameandwalkedwithmethereinthatlonelyvalley,asitgaveitselfsilentlyintothearmsofnight。
  ProbablynoneIknowwillevertreadwhereIwastreadingthen,norI
  everbeagaininthatstrangewildcleft,sofaroutoftheworld;
  andyet,ifyearshenceIshouldchancetowandertherealoneoncemore,IknowtheghostofthatromancewillrisetomeetmeasIpass。
  IownImadenohastetoovertakethecaravan。
  DarknessfelluponuswhilewewereyetalongwayfromAshikura,withanuncertaincliffpathbetweenusandit:forthepath,likeatruemountaintrail,hadthepassionforclimbingdevelopedintoamania,andcouldneverrestcontentwiththeriver’sbedwheneveritspiedachancetorise。Ithadjustmanagedanascentupazigzagstairwayofitsowninvention,andhadsteppedoutinthedarkuponapatchoftallmountaingrass,asdryasstraw,whenYejiroconceivedthebrilliantideaoftorches。HehadlearnedthetrickintheHakonehills,whereitwasthehabit,hetoldtheguide,whencaughtoutatnight;andheproceededtorollsomeofthegrassintolongwispsforthepurpose。Thetorcheswereremarkablypicturesque,anddidusservicebeside。Theirruddyflare,bowingtothebreeze,butonlyburningthemoremadlyforitsthwarting,lightedthepathlikenoondaythroughacircleoffifteenfeet,anddroppedbrands,stillflaring,intothestubble,whichwefeltitacaseofconsciencetostopandstampout。Thecircle,smallasitwas,sufficedtodiscloseayawninggulfontheside,towhichthepathclungwiththepersistencyofinfatuation。
  Thefirstthingtotellusofapproachtohumanhabitationwasthecroakingofthefrogs。AfterthewildnessofourdayitsoundedlikesomelullabyofMotherEarth,speakingofhearthandhome,andweknewthatwewerecomebacktoricefieldsandman。Itwasanotherhalfhour,however,beforeourprocessionreachedtheoutskirtsofthevillage。Herewethrewasideourtorches,andinaweary,drawn-outfilefoundourway,onebyone,intothecourtyardoftheinn。Itwasnotaninntheyearround;itbecamesuchonlyatcertainseasons,ofwhichthepresentwasnotone。IthadthehabitofputtinguppilgrimsontheirwaytotheDragonPeak;betweenthetimesofitspiousofficesitrelapsedintoasimplefarmhouse。
  Buttheownerreceivedusnonethelesskindlyforourinopportuneappearance,andhastedtobringthewater-tubsforourfeet。NeverwasImorewillingtositonthesillamomentanddabblemytoes;
  forIwasfootsoreandweary,andgladtobeonman’slevelagain。
  Ipromiseyou,wewereallveryhumanthatevening,andfeltadealaloud。
  XVIII。
  AGenialInkyo。
  Theownerofthefarmhousehadinheriteditfromhisfather。Therewasnothingveryoddaboutthiseventoourother-worldnotionsofproperty,exceptthatthefatherwasstillliving,ashaleandheartyasyouplease,inalittledenatthefootofthegarden。Hewas,inshort,whatisknownasaninkyo,orone"dwellinginretirement,"——asingularstate,composedofequalpartsofthisworldandthenext;
  likedyingintheory,andthenundertakingtoliveoninpractice。
  Foraninkyoisamanwhohasformallyhandedinhisresignationtothecommunity,andyetcontinuestoexistmostenjoyablyinthemidstofit。Hehasabdicatedinfavorofhiseldestson,and,havingputoffallresponsibilities,isfiliallysupportedinalifeofeaseandpleasure。
  Inspiteofbeingnolongerinsociety,thefatherwasgreedilysocial。
  Assoonasheheardaforeignerhadarrived,hetrottedovertocall,andnothingwoulddobutImustvisithisnicheearlyinthemorning,beforegoingaway。
  Afterbreakfast,therefore,thesondulycametofetchme,andwestartedoffthroughthegarden。Forhissire’splaceofretirementlayawayfromtheroad,towardtheriver,thatthedearoldgentlemanmightcommandaviewofthepeaksopposite,ofoneofwhich,calledtheEtchiuFuji,fromitsconicalform,hewasdotinglyfond。
  Itwasanexpeditiongettingthere。Thisarose,notfromanyspecialfaultinthepath,whichforthefirsthalfofthewayconsistedofastringofstepping-stonesneatlylaidintheground,andforthelatterfractionofnoworsemudthancouldeasilybemetwithelsewhere。Thetroublecamefromamisunderstandinginfoot-gear。
  Itseemedtooshortawalktoputone’sbootstwiceonandoffforthedoingofit。Ontheotherhand,towalkinstocking-feetwasoutofthequestion,forthemud。SoIattemptedacompromise,consistingofmysocksandthenativewoodenclogs,andtriedtomaketheonetakekindlytotheother。Butmymittenlikesockswouldhavenoneofmythongs,and,failingofagripformytoes,compelledmetoscufflealonginaveryundignifiedway。Theneveryfewstepsoneortheotheroftheclogssawfittostaybehind,andIhadtohalttorecoverthedelinquent。ImadeasorryspectacleasIscrewedaboutontheremainingshoe,gropingafteritsfellow。OnceIwascaughtintheactbymycicerone,whoturnedroundinopportunelytoseewhyIwasnotfollowing;andtwiceinattemptingthefeatIallbutlostmybalanceintothemud。
  Theworthyvirtuoso,ashewas,metusatthedoor,andescortedusupstairstoseehistreasures。Theroomwastapestriedwithallmannerofworksofart,ofwhichhewasjustlyproud,whilethehouseitselfstoodcopiedfromaChinesemodel,forhewasveryclassic。
  ButIwaspleasedtofindthataboveallhisheartwasgiventotheview。Itwasshared,asIalsodiscovered,bythetea-ceremonies,inwhichhewasaproficient;suchamixtureisman。ButIbelievetheviewtohavebeenthedeeperaffection。WhileIwasadmiringit,hefetchedfromacupboardaverysuspicious-lookingbottleofwhatturnedouttobehoney,andpressedaglassofituponme。Idulysippedthisnotinappropriateliquor,sincecordialssavorofasceticism,andthisonebeingofnaturaldecoctionpeculiarlybefittedasecularanchorite。ThenItookmyleaveofonewho,thoughnolongerintheworld,wasstillsocharminglyofit。
  Thegoodsoulchancedtobeawidower,butsuchbereavementisnonecessarypreliminarytobecominga"dwellerinretirement。"
  Sometimesamanenterstheinkyostatewhilehestillhaswithhimthehelpmateofhisyouth,andthetwogotogethertothisaftermathoflife。Surelyaprettyreturn,this,ofthehoneymoon!DarbyandJoanstartingoncemorehandinhand,aloneinthisIndiansummeroftheirlove,astheydidyearsagoinitsspring-tide,beforeothergenerationsoftheirownhadpushedthemontolessromanticparts;
  Darbycomebackfrompaternalcarestobeoncemorethelover,andJoanfrommotherandgrandamagainbecomehisgirl。
  Wepartedfromourwatchman-guideandhalfourporterswithmuchfeeling,asdidtheyfromus。Asfriendshipsgowehadnotknownoneanotherlong,butintimacyisnotmeasuredbytime。Circumstanceshadthrownusintooneanother’sarms,and,aswebadegood-byfirsttooneandthentoanother,weseemedtobeseveringatiethattouchedveryneartheheart。
  Twooftheporterscameonwithus,asmuchforloveasformoney,asfarasKamiichi,whereweweretogetkuruma。Alongtrampwehadofitacrossleaguesofricefields,andforapartofthewaybesidealarge,deepcanal,finelyboweredintrees,andflowingwithaswift,darkcurrentlikesomehugeboawindingstealthilyunderthebamboo。
  ItwasthearterytoIknownothowmanysquaremilesoffield。
  Wecameinforasteadydrizzleafterthis,anditwaslongpastnoonbeforewetouchedournoontidehalt,andstalkedatlastintotheinn。
  Withgreatdifficultywesecuredthreekuruma,——theplacestoodonthelimitsofsuchlocomotion,——andacrowdsodensecollectedaboutthemthatitblockedthewayout。Everybodyseemedsmittenwithadesiretoseethestrangers,whichgavetheinnservants,byvirtueoftheircalling,anenviabledistinctiontovillageeyes。Buttheportersstoodhighestinregard,bothbecauseoftheirmoreintimatetietousandbecauseweherepartedfromthem。Itwasseveringthefinallinktothenowhappypast。Weallfeltit,andtoldourrosaryofmemoriesinthought,Idoubtnot,eachtohimself,aswewentoutintotheworlduponourdifferentways。
  EightmilesinarainbroughtustotheroadbywhichwehadenteredEtchiusomedaysbefore,andthatnightwesleptatMikkaichioncemore。Onthemorrowmorningtheweatherfaired,andtowardmiddaywewereagainfacingthefringeofbreakersfromthecliffs。
  Themountainspurslookedthegrimmerthatwenowknewthemsowellbyrepulse。Theairwasclearerthanwhenwecame,andaswegazedoutovertheoceanwecouldseeforthefirsthalfdaythefaintcoastlineofNoto,stretchingtowarduslikeanarmalongthehorizon。
  Wewatcheditatintervalsaslongasitwasrecognizable,andwhenatlastitvanishedbeyondevenimagination’spowertoconjureup,feltastrangepangofpersonalregret。Theseathatsnatchesawaysomanylandsatpartingseemsfitlyinhumantothedeed。
  InthecourseofthesetwodaystwothingshappenedwhichpointedcuriouslytotheisolationofthispartofJapan。Thefirstwasthenearmeetingwithanotherforeigner,whichwouldseemtoimplypreciselythecontrary。ButtheunwontedexcitementintowhichtheeventthrewYejiroandmewasproofenoughofitsstrangeness。
  ItwaswhileIwassippingtea,waitingforafreshrelayofkurumaatNamerigawa,thatYejirorushedintoannouncethatanotherforeignerwasrestingataninnalittlefurtheruptown。HehadarrivedshortlybeforefromtheEchigoside,reportsaid。Thepassingofroyaltyorevenacircuswouldhavebeentamenewsincomparison。
  OfcourseIhastenedintomybootsandsalliedforth。Ididnotcallonhimformally,butIinspectedthefrontoftheinninwhichhewassaidtobe,withpeculiarexpectationofspirit,inspiteofmyaffectedunconcern。Hewas,Ibelieve,aGerman;buthenevertookshape。
  Thesecondeventoccurredthenextevening,andwasevenmoresingular。
  Likethedodoitchronicledsurvival。Itwasmanifestedinthepersonofapoliceman。
  SometimeafterourarrivalattheinnYejiroreportedthatthepoliceofficerwishedtoseeme。Themanhadalreadyseentheimportantpartofme,thepassport,andIwasatalosstoimaginewhatmorehecouldwant。SoYejirowassentbacktoinvestigate。
  Hereturnedshortlywithasadcaseofconcernforconsideration,andhehardlykepthisfaceashetoldit。Theconscientiousofficer,itseemed,wishedtosleepoutsidemyroomformyprotection。
  Fromthepassporthefelthimselfresponsibleformysafety,andhadconcludedthattheleasthecoulddowouldbenottoleavemeforamoment。Iassuredhim,throughYejiro,thathisofferwasmostthoughtful,butunnecessary。Butwhatanout-of-the-worldcornerthethoughtimplied,andwhatafinefossilthegoodsoulmusthavebeen!
  Herewassurvivalwithanemphasis!Themanhadsleptsoundlythroughtwentyyearsormoreofchange,andwasstillinthepre-foreigndaysofthefeudalages。
  Thepricesofkuruma,too,werepleasinglybehindthetimes。Theywerebuttwo-fifthsofwhatweshouldhavehadtopayonthesoutherncoast。AsweadvancedtowardShinshiu,however,thepricesadvancedtoo。Indeed,theoneadvanceaccuratelymeasuredtheother。Weweregettingbackagainintotheworld,itwaspainfullyevident。Atlastfaresrosetosixcentsari。Beforetheycouldmounthigherwehadtakenrefugeinthetrain,andwerehurryingtowardZenkojibysteam。
  OurobjectivepointwasnowthedescentoftheTenriugawarapids。
  Itwasnottheshortestwayhome,butitwaspartofourprojecteditineraryandtookusthroughacountrytypicaloftheheartofJapan。Itbeganwithafinesuccessionofpass...剩余内容请长按扫描二维码或下载丁香书院APP继续免费看:

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