Forsomeminutespastastrange,far-awaymusicalnote,likethemurmurofrunningwater,hadstruckmyear,andyetallabouteverythinglookeddead。Ofanimateoreveninanimatepulsationtherewasnosign。OneunbrokensheetofsnowstretchedasfarasIcouldsee,inwhichstoodthegreattreeslikemummies。Stillthesoundcontinued,seemingtocomefromundermyfeet。Istopped,and,kneelingdown,putmyeartothecrust,andthere,asdistinctaspossible,Iheardthewimplingofababybrook,crooningtoitselfunderitsthickwhiteblanket。Herethenwasthecradleofoneofthosestreamsthatlaterwouldbecomesuchanuglycustomertomeet。
Itwasbabilyinnocentnow,andtheonelivingthingbesidemyselfonthisMaydayinthegreatsnow-sheetedsolitude。
Perhapsitwasthebrookthathadunderminedthesnow。Atallevents,soonafterIovertooktheothers,theguide,fearingtotrusttoitfarther,suddenlystruckupagaintotheleft。Weallfollowed,remonstrating。Wehadnosoonergotupthanwewentdownagaintheotherside,andthispicket-fencestyleofprogresscontinuedtillweemergeduponthetopofacertainspur,whichcommandedafineviewofgorges。Unfortunatelyweourselveswereontopofsomeofthem。
Theguidereconnoiteredbothsidesforadescent,pushinghiswaythroughathickgrowthofdwarfbamboo,andbroughtupeachtimeontheedgeofanimpassablefalltothestreambelow。Atlasthetooktothearete。Itwasmaskedbytreesforsomedistance,andthencameoutasabareknifeedgeofrockandearth。Downitwescrambled,tilltheslopetothesidebecamepassable。Thiswasnowmuchlesssteep,althoughstillsteepenoughfortheguidetomakemehaltbehindatree,forfearofthestonesdislodgedbythosebehind。
Thesecamedownpastuslikecannon-balls,ricochettingbybigbounds。
Atthebottomwereachedthestream,andbesideitwehaltedforlunch。Justbelowourrestingplaceanotherstreamjoinedourown,bothcomingdownforbidding-lookingvalleys,shutinbysavagepeaks。
Onthedelta,betweenthewaters,wemadeoutabandofhunters,threeofthem,tarryingafteranunsuccessfulchase。Thislastwasageneralinference,ratherthananobservedfact。
Thespotwasidealforpicturesquepurposes,——thewaterclearascrystal,andthesunshinesparkling。Butotherwisematterswentillwithus。Ourextemporeguidehadpromisedus,overhisownfiretheeveningbefore,asingledayofittoArimine。Ontheroadhisestimateofthetimeneededhadincreasedalarmingly。Fromdirectquestioningitnowappearedthatheintendedtocampoutonthemountainopposite,whosesnowyslopeswerepainfullypropheticofwhatthatnightwouldbe。Besides,thismeantanotherdayofittoArimine;andevenwhenwereachedArimine,wewerenowhere,andIwasscantoftime。Wehadalreadylostthreedays;ifwekepton,I
foresawthelossofmore。Itwasverydishearteningtoturnback,butithadtobedone。
OurobjectnowwastostriketheAshikuratrailandfollowitdown。
Theguide,however,wasnotsureofthepath,sowehailedthehunters。Oneofthemcameacrossthedeltatotheedgeofthestreamwithinshoutingdistance,andfromhimweobtainedknowledgeoftheway。
Atfirstthepathwasunadventurousenough,thoughdistressinglyrough。Intruth,itwasnopathatall;itwasanabstractdirection。Itledstraighton,regardlessoffooting,andwefollowed,nowwadingthroughswamps,nowstumblingoverroots,nowduckingfromwhip-liketwigsthatcutusacrosstheface,untilatlastweemergedabovethestream,anduponasceneasgrandlydesolateasthemostmorbidmisanthropemightwish。Amassofbouldersofallsizes,fromabarntoacobblestone,completelyfilledachasmatthebaseofasemicircularwallofcastellatedclaycliffs。Intothepitwedescended。Thepinnaclesabovewereimpressivelyhigh,andbetweenthemwerecouloirsofdebristhatlookedtoustobeasperpendicularasthecliffs。Uponeofthesebreakneckslidestheguidepointedforourpath。Portersandall,wedemurred。Path,ofcourse,therewasnone;therewasnotevenanapologyforasuspicionthatanyonehadeverbeenupordowntheplace。Wefeltsuretheremustbesomeotherwayout。Themorewesearched,however,thelesswefound。Thestream,whichwasanimpassabletorrent,barredexitbelowonoursidebyrunningstraightintothewallofrock。Theslidewasanuglyclimbtocontemplate,yetwelookedatitsometimebeforeweacceptedtheinevitable。
Whenindesperationwefinallymadeupourminds,webeganpickingourdubiouswayupamongamassofrocksthatthreatenedtobecomeastoneavalancheatanymoment。Noneofuslikedit,butnoneofusknewhowlittletheotherslikedittillthatevening。Intheexpansionofsuccessweadmittedourpastfeelings。Onepoorportersaidhethoughthislasthourhadcome,andmostofusbelievedanearfuturewithoutusnotimprobable。Itshowshowdangerunlockstheheartthatjustbecause,halfwayup,Ihadrelievedthismanofhisstick,whichfromahelphadbecomeahindrance,hefelttowardmeanexaggeratedgratitude。Itwasnothingformetodo,forIwasfree,whilehehadhisload,buthadIreallysavedhislifehecouldnothavebeenmorebeholden。Indeed,itwasatimetointensifyemotion。
Aswescrambledupwardonallfours,theascent,fromfamiliarity,grewlessformidable。Atleastthestonesdecreasedinsize,althoughtheirtiltremainedthesame,buttheanglelookedlesssteepfromabovethanfrombelow。
Atlast,oneaftertheother,wereachedaplacetothesideoftheneckofthecouloir,andscramblingroundthecopingofturfatthetopemerged,tooursurprise,uponapath,orratherupontheghostofone。Forwefoundourselvesuponanarrowridgeofsoilbetweentwochasms,endinginapinnacleofclay,andalongthisribbonoflandranapath,perfectlypreservedforperhapsascoreofpacesout,whenitbrokeoffbodilyinmid-air。Theuntowardlookofthewaywehadcomestoodexplained。Hereclearlyhadbeenacataclysmwithinitinerarytimes。Somegiganticlandslidemusthaveslicedthemountainoffintothegorgebelow,andinsteadofapathwehadbeenfollowingitsstillunlaidphantom。Thenew-borncharacterofthechasmexplaineditsshockingnakedness。Butitwasanuncomfortablesighttoseeapathinallitsentiretyvanishsuddenlyintothevoid。
Theuncutendoftheformertrailledbacktoalittletablelandsupportingapatchoftillingandtenantedbyanuninhabitedhut。
TheWillowMoortheycalledit,thoughitseemedhardlybigenoughtobearaname。Onreconnoitringforthedescent,wefoundthefarthersidefallenawaylikethefirst;sothattheplateauwasnowcutofffromalldecentapproach。Oneofus,atlast,struckthebuttendofapath;butwehadnotgonefardownitbeforeitbrokeoff,anddeliveredustothegullies。Thisside,however,wasmuchbetterthantheother,andittooknoneofusverylongtoslipdowntheslope,repairthebridge,andjointheAshikuratrail。
Wewerenowoncemoreonthepathwehadcomeup,withthecertaintyofbadplacesinsteadoftheiruncertaintyaheadofus,adoubtfulbetterment。TheOnigaJolayinwaitroundthecorner,andtherestofthefamiliardevilswouldallappearinduecourseoftime。
Tiedovermybootswerethestrawsandalsofthecountry。Theywerenotmadetobewornthus,andshowedgreatuneasinessintheirnewposition,dowhatwemightwiththethongs。Everybodytriedhishandatit,firstandlast;butthefidgetythingsalwaysendedbycomingoffatthetoeortheheel,orsluingroundtothesidetilltheywereworsethanuseless。Theyweresupposedtopreventonefromslipping,whichnodoubttheywouldhavedonehadtheynotbegunbyslippingoffthemselves。Theyworethemselvesoutbytheirnervousness,andhadtoberenewedeverylittlewhilefromthestocktheporterscarried。InhonoroftheOnigaJoIhadafreshpairputonbesidethebrooksacredtothememoryofmypocket-handkerchief。WethenrosetotheDevilPlace,andthreadeditinsinglefile。Whetheritwerethecompanionship,orfamiliarity,orsimplythatmyrightsideinsteadofmyleftnextthecliffgavegreaterseemingsecurity,I
gotoveritashademorecomfortablythistime,thoughitwasstillfarfrommyidealofanafternoon’swalk。Theroadtothenextworldbranchedofftoodisturbinglytotheleft。
Atlastthepathdescendedtotheriverbottomforgood。Isatdownonastone,pulledoutmytobaccopouch,andlitapipe。Theporterspassedonoutofsight。ThenItrudgedalongmyself。Thetensionofthelasttwodayshadsuddenlyceased,andintheexpansionofspiritthatensuedIwasconsciousofavoid。Iwantedsomeonewithmethen,perhaps,morethanIevercravedcompanionshipbefore。Thegreatgorgeaboutmelayfilledtothebrimwithpurpleshadow。Idrankinthecoolshade-scentedairateverybreath。Theforest-coveredmountainsides,patchedhigherupwithsnowinthegullies,shutouttheworld。Onlyagildedbithereandthereonsomeloftyspurlingeredtohintasunbeyond。Thestripofpaleblueskyfaroverheadbowedtomeetthevistaofthevalleybehind,avistaofpeaksmoreandmoresnow-clad,tilltheviewwasblockedatlastbyawhite,nun-veiledsummit,flushednow,inthelateafternoonlight,toatenderrose。Paststrainhadleftthespirit,aspastfatigueleavesthebody,exquisitelyconscious;andmyfancycameandwalkedwithmethereinthatlonelyvalley,asitgaveitselfsilentlyintothearmsofnight。
ProbablynoneIknowwillevertreadwhereIwastreadingthen,norI
everbeagaininthatstrangewildcleft,sofaroutoftheworld;
andyet,ifyearshenceIshouldchancetowandertherealoneoncemore,IknowtheghostofthatromancewillrisetomeetmeasIpass。
IownImadenohastetoovertakethecaravan。
DarknessfelluponuswhilewewereyetalongwayfromAshikura,withanuncertaincliffpathbetweenusandit:forthepath,likeatruemountaintrail,hadthepassionforclimbingdevelopedintoamania,andcouldneverrestcontentwiththeriver’sbedwheneveritspiedachancetorise。Ithadjustmanagedanascentupazigzagstairwayofitsowninvention,andhadsteppedoutinthedarkuponapatchoftallmountaingrass,asdryasstraw,whenYejiroconceivedthebrilliantideaoftorches。HehadlearnedthetrickintheHakonehills,whereitwasthehabit,hetoldtheguide,whencaughtoutatnight;andheproceededtorollsomeofthegrassintolongwispsforthepurpose。Thetorcheswereremarkablypicturesque,anddidusservicebeside。Theirruddyflare,bowingtothebreeze,butonlyburningthemoremadlyforitsthwarting,lightedthepathlikenoondaythroughacircleoffifteenfeet,anddroppedbrands,stillflaring,intothestubble,whichwefeltitacaseofconsciencetostopandstampout。Thecircle,smallasitwas,sufficedtodiscloseayawninggulfontheside,towhichthepathclungwiththepersistencyofinfatuation。
Thefirstthingtotellusofapproachtohumanhabitationwasthecroakingofthefrogs。AfterthewildnessofourdayitsoundedlikesomelullabyofMotherEarth,speakingofhearthandhome,andweknewthatwewerecomebacktoricefieldsandman。Itwasanotherhalfhour,however,beforeourprocessionreachedtheoutskirtsofthevillage。Herewethrewasideourtorches,andinaweary,drawn-outfilefoundourway,onebyone,intothecourtyardoftheinn。Itwasnotaninntheyearround;itbecamesuchonlyatcertainseasons,ofwhichthepresentwasnotone。IthadthehabitofputtinguppilgrimsontheirwaytotheDragonPeak;betweenthetimesofitspiousofficesitrelapsedintoasimplefarmhouse。
Buttheownerreceivedusnonethelesskindlyforourinopportuneappearance,andhastedtobringthewater-tubsforourfeet。NeverwasImorewillingtositonthesillamomentanddabblemytoes;
forIwasfootsoreandweary,andgladtobeonman’slevelagain。
Ipromiseyou,wewereallveryhumanthatevening,andfeltadealaloud。
XVIII。
AGenialInkyo。
Theownerofthefarmhousehadinheriteditfromhisfather。Therewasnothingveryoddaboutthiseventoourother-worldnotionsofproperty,exceptthatthefatherwasstillliving,ashaleandheartyasyouplease,inalittledenatthefootofthegarden。Hewas,inshort,whatisknownasaninkyo,orone"dwellinginretirement,"——asingularstate,composedofequalpartsofthisworldandthenext;
likedyingintheory,andthenundertakingtoliveoninpractice。
Foraninkyoisamanwhohasformallyhandedinhisresignationtothecommunity,andyetcontinuestoexistmostenjoyablyinthemidstofit。Hehasabdicatedinfavorofhiseldestson,and,havingputoffallresponsibilities,isfiliallysupportedinalifeofeaseandpleasure。
Inspiteofbeingnolongerinsociety,thefatherwasgreedilysocial。
Assoonasheheardaforeignerhadarrived,hetrottedovertocall,andnothingwoulddobutImustvisithisnicheearlyinthemorning,beforegoingaway。
Afterbreakfast,therefore,thesondulycametofetchme,andwestartedoffthroughthegarden。Forhissire’splaceofretirementlayawayfromtheroad,towardtheriver,thatthedearoldgentlemanmightcommandaviewofthepeaksopposite,ofoneofwhich,calledtheEtchiuFuji,fromitsconicalform,hewasdotinglyfond。
Itwasanexpeditiongettingthere。Thisarose,notfromanyspecialfaultinthepath,whichforthefirsthalfofthewayconsistedofastringofstepping-stonesneatlylaidintheground,andforthelatterfractionofnoworsemudthancouldeasilybemetwithelsewhere。Thetroublecamefromamisunderstandinginfoot-gear。
Itseemedtooshortawalktoputone’sbootstwiceonandoffforthedoingofit。Ontheotherhand,towalkinstocking-feetwasoutofthequestion,forthemud。SoIattemptedacompromise,consistingofmysocksandthenativewoodenclogs,andtriedtomaketheonetakekindlytotheother。Butmymittenlikesockswouldhavenoneofmythongs,and,failingofagripformytoes,compelledmetoscufflealonginaveryundignifiedway。Theneveryfewstepsoneortheotheroftheclogssawfittostaybehind,andIhadtohalttorecoverthedelinquent。ImadeasorryspectacleasIscrewedaboutontheremainingshoe,gropingafteritsfellow。OnceIwascaughtintheactbymycicerone,whoturnedroundinopportunelytoseewhyIwasnotfollowing;andtwiceinattemptingthefeatIallbutlostmybalanceintothemud。
Theworthyvirtuoso,ashewas,metusatthedoor,andescortedusupstairstoseehistreasures。Theroomwastapestriedwithallmannerofworksofart,ofwhichhewasjustlyproud,whilethehouseitselfstoodcopiedfromaChinesemodel,forhewasveryclassic。
ButIwaspleasedtofindthataboveallhisheartwasgiventotheview。Itwasshared,asIalsodiscovered,bythetea-ceremonies,inwhichhewasaproficient;suchamixtureisman。ButIbelievetheviewtohavebeenthedeeperaffection。WhileIwasadmiringit,hefetchedfromacupboardaverysuspicious-lookingbottleofwhatturnedouttobehoney,andpressedaglassofituponme。Idulysippedthisnotinappropriateliquor,sincecordialssavorofasceticism,andthisonebeingofnaturaldecoctionpeculiarlybefittedasecularanchorite。ThenItookmyleaveofonewho,thoughnolongerintheworld,wasstillsocharminglyofit。
Thegoodsoulchancedtobeawidower,butsuchbereavementisnonecessarypreliminarytobecominga"dwellerinretirement。"
Sometimesamanenterstheinkyostatewhilehestillhaswithhimthehelpmateofhisyouth,andthetwogotogethertothisaftermathoflife。Surelyaprettyreturn,this,ofthehoneymoon!DarbyandJoanstartingoncemorehandinhand,aloneinthisIndiansummeroftheirlove,astheydidyearsagoinitsspring-tide,beforeothergenerationsoftheirownhadpushedthemontolessromanticparts;
Darbycomebackfrompaternalcarestobeoncemorethelover,andJoanfrommotherandgrandamagainbecomehisgirl。
Wepartedfromourwatchman-guideandhalfourporterswithmuchfeeling,asdidtheyfromus。Asfriendshipsgowehadnotknownoneanotherlong,butintimacyisnotmeasuredbytime。Circumstanceshadthrownusintooneanother’sarms,and,aswebadegood-byfirsttooneandthentoanother,weseemedtobeseveringatiethattouchedveryneartheheart。
Twooftheporterscameonwithus,asmuchforloveasformoney,asfarasKamiichi,whereweweretogetkuruma。Alongtrampwehadofitacrossleaguesofricefields,andforapartofthewaybesidealarge,deepcanal,finelyboweredintrees,andflowingwithaswift,darkcurrentlikesomehugeboawindingstealthilyunderthebamboo。
ItwasthearterytoIknownothowmanysquaremilesoffield。
Wecameinforasteadydrizzleafterthis,anditwaslongpastnoonbeforewetouchedournoontidehalt,andstalkedatlastintotheinn。
Withgreatdifficultywesecuredthreekuruma,——theplacestoodonthelimitsofsuchlocomotion,——andacrowdsodensecollectedaboutthemthatitblockedthewayout。Everybodyseemedsmittenwithadesiretoseethestrangers,whichgavetheinnservants,byvirtueoftheircalling,anenviabledistinctiontovillageeyes。Buttheportersstoodhighestinregard,bothbecauseoftheirmoreintimatetietousandbecauseweherepartedfromthem。Itwasseveringthefinallinktothenowhappypast。Weallfeltit,andtoldourrosaryofmemoriesinthought,Idoubtnot,eachtohimself,aswewentoutintotheworlduponourdifferentways。
EightmilesinarainbroughtustotheroadbywhichwehadenteredEtchiusomedaysbefore,andthatnightwesleptatMikkaichioncemore。Onthemorrowmorningtheweatherfaired,andtowardmiddaywewereagainfacingthefringeofbreakersfromthecliffs。
Themountainspurslookedthegrimmerthatwenowknewthemsowellbyrepulse。Theairwasclearerthanwhenwecame,andaswegazedoutovertheoceanwecouldseeforthefirsthalfdaythefaintcoastlineofNoto,stretchingtowarduslikeanarmalongthehorizon。
Wewatcheditatintervalsaslongasitwasrecognizable,andwhenatlastitvanishedbeyondevenimagination’spowertoconjureup,feltastrangepangofpersonalregret。Theseathatsnatchesawaysomanylandsatpartingseemsfitlyinhumantothedeed。
InthecourseofthesetwodaystwothingshappenedwhichpointedcuriouslytotheisolationofthispartofJapan。Thefirstwasthenearmeetingwithanotherforeigner,whichwouldseemtoimplypreciselythecontrary。ButtheunwontedexcitementintowhichtheeventthrewYejiroandmewasproofenoughofitsstrangeness。
ItwaswhileIwassippingtea,waitingforafreshrelayofkurumaatNamerigawa,thatYejirorushedintoannouncethatanotherforeignerwasrestingataninnalittlefurtheruptown。HehadarrivedshortlybeforefromtheEchigoside,reportsaid。Thepassingofroyaltyorevenacircuswouldhavebeentamenewsincomparison。
OfcourseIhastenedintomybootsandsalliedforth。Ididnotcallonhimformally,butIinspectedthefrontoftheinninwhichhewassaidtobe,withpeculiarexpectationofspirit,inspiteofmyaffectedunconcern。Hewas,Ibelieve,aGerman;buthenevertookshape。
Thesecondeventoccurredthenextevening,andwasevenmoresingular。
Likethedodoitchronicledsurvival。Itwasmanifestedinthepersonofapoliceman。
SometimeafterourarrivalattheinnYejiroreportedthatthepoliceofficerwishedtoseeme。Themanhadalreadyseentheimportantpartofme,thepassport,andIwasatalosstoimaginewhatmorehecouldwant。SoYejirowassentbacktoinvestigate。
Hereturnedshortlywithasadcaseofconcernforconsideration,andhehardlykepthisfaceashetoldit。Theconscientiousofficer,itseemed,wishedtosleepoutsidemyroomformyprotection。
Fromthepassporthefelthimselfresponsibleformysafety,andhadconcludedthattheleasthecoulddowouldbenottoleavemeforamoment。Iassuredhim,throughYejiro,thathisofferwasmostthoughtful,butunnecessary。Butwhatanout-of-the-worldcornerthethoughtimplied,andwhatafinefossilthegoodsoulmusthavebeen!
Herewassurvivalwithanemphasis!Themanhadsleptsoundlythroughtwentyyearsormoreofchange,andwasstillinthepre-foreigndaysofthefeudalages。
Thepricesofkuruma,too,werepleasinglybehindthetimes。Theywerebuttwo-fifthsofwhatweshouldhavehadtopayonthesoutherncoast。AsweadvancedtowardShinshiu,however,thepricesadvancedtoo。Indeed,theoneadvanceaccuratelymeasuredtheother。Weweregettingbackagainintotheworld,itwaspainfullyevident。Atlastfaresrosetosixcentsari。Beforetheycouldmounthigherwehadtakenrefugeinthetrain,andwerehurryingtowardZenkojibysteam。
OurobjectivepointwasnowthedescentoftheTenriugawarapids。
Itwasnottheshortestwayhome,butitwaspartofourprojecteditineraryandtookusthroughacountrytypicaloftheheartofJapan。Itbeganwithafinesuccessionofpass...剩余内容请长按扫描二维码或下载丁香书院APP继续免费看:
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