Mr。WallisBudgesaysinhisbookontheantiquitiesofEgypt："ItwouldbeunjusttothememoryofagreatmanandaloyalservantofHatshepsu，ifweomittedtomentionthenameofSenmut，thearchitectandoverseerofworksatDeir-el-Bahari。"ByallmeansletSenmutbementioned，andthenlethimbeutterlyforgotten。Aradiantqueenreignshere——aqueenoffantasyandsplendor，andofthatdivineshallowness——refinedfrivolityliterallycutintothemountain——whichisthenoteofDeir-el-Bahari。Andwhatacleverbackground！Oh，Hatshepsuknewwhatshewasdoingwhenshebuilthertemplehere。ItwasnotthesolemnSenmut（heworeabeard，I’msure）whochosethatbackground，ifIknowanythingofwomen。
　　LongbeforeIvisitedDeir-el-BahariIhadlookedatitfromafar。Myeyeshadbeendrawntoitmerelyfromitssituationrightunderneaththemountains。Ihadasked："Whatdothoselittlepillarsmean？Andarethoselittledoors？"Ihadpromisedmyselftogothere，asonepromisesoneselfa/bonnebouche/tofinishahappybanquet。AndIhadrealizedthesubtlety，essentiallyfeminine，thathadplacedatemplethere。AndMenu-Hotep’stemple，perhapsyousay，wasitnottherebeforethequeen’s？Thenhemusthavepossessedasubtletypurelyfeminine，orhavebeenadvisedbyoneofhiswivesinhisbuildingoperations，orbysomefavoritefemaleslave。Blundering，unsubtlemanwouldprobablythinkthatthebestwaytoattractandtofixattentiononanyobjectwastomakeitmuchbiggerthanthingsnearandaroundit，tosetupagiantamongdwarfs。
　　NotsoQueenHatshepsu。Moreartfulinhergeneration，shesetherlongbutlittletempleagainsttheprecipicesofLibya。Andwhatistheresult？Simplythatwheneveronelookstowardthemonesays，"Whatarethoselittlepillars？"Orifoneismoreinstructed，onethinksaboutQueenHatshepsu。Theprecipicesareasnothing。Awoman’swilehasblottedthemout。
　　Andyethowgrandtheyare！Ihavecalledthemtiger-coloredprecipices。Andtheysuggesttawnywildbeasts，fierce，bredinalandthatisthepreyofthesun。Everyshadeoforangeandyellowglowsandgrowspaleontheirbosses，intheirclefts。Theyshootoutturretsofrockthatblazelikeflamesintheday。Theyshowgreatteeth，likethetigerwhenanyonedrawsnear。And，likethetiger，theyseemperpetuallyinformedbyaspiritthatisangry。Blakewroteofthetiger：
　　"Tiger，tiger，burningbrightIntheforestsofthenight。"
　　Thesetiger-precipicesofLibyaareburningthings，avidlikebeastsofprey。Buttherestoredapricot-coloredpillarsarenotafraidoftheirimpendingfury——furyofabeastbaffledbyatrickylittlewoman，almostitseemstome;andstilllessafraidarethewhitepillars，andthebrilliantpaintingsthatdecoratethewallswithin。
　　AsmanypeopleinthesadbutlovelyislandsoffthecoastofScotlandbelievein"doubles，"astheoldclassicwritersbelievedinman’s"genius，"sotheancientEgyptianbelievedinhis"Ka，"orseparateentity，asortofspiritualotherself，tobepropitiatedandministeredto，presentedwithgifts，andservedwithenergyandardor。
　　OnthistempleofDeir-el-BahariisthesceneofthebirthofHatshepsu，andtherearetwobabies，theprincessandherKa。ForthisimaginedKa，whenagreatqueen，longafter，shebuiltthistemple，orchapel，thatofferingsmightbemadethereoncertainappointeddays。
　　FortunateKaofHatshepsutohavehadsocheerfuladwelling！
　　LivelinesspervadesDeir-el-Bahari。Iremember，whenIwasonmyfirstvisittoEgypt，lunchingatThebeswithMonsieurNavilleandMr。
　　Hogarth，andafterwardgoingwiththemtowatchthediggingawayofthemassesofsandandrubbishwhichconcealedthisgraciousbuilding。
　　Irememberthesongsofthehalf-nakedworkmentoilingandsweatinginthesun。andIrememberseeingawhitetemplewallcomeupintothelightwithallthepaintedfiguressurelydancingwithjoyuponit。
　　Andtheyaresurelydancingstill。
　　Hereyoumaysee，brilliantasyesterday’spictureanywhere，fascinatinglydecorativetreesgrowingbravelyinlittlepots，redpeopleofferingincensewhichispileduponmoundslikemountains，Ptah-Seket，Osirisreceivingaroyalgiftofwine，thequeeninthecompanyofvariousdivinities，andtheterribleordealofthecows。
　　Thecowsarebeingweighedinscales。Therearethreeofthem。Oneisaphilosopher，andreposeswithanairthatsays，"Eventhislastindignityofbeingweighedagainstmywillcannotperturbmysoaringspirit。"Buttheothertwosittingup，lookasapprehensiveasoldladiesinarockingexpress，expectantofanaccident。Thevividnessofthecolorsinthistempleisquitewonderful。Andmuchofitsgreatattractioncomesratherfromitsposition，andfromthem，thanessentiallyfromitself。AtDeir-el-Bahari，whatthelongshellcontains——itshappymurmuroflife——ismorefascinatingthantheshell。There，insteadofbeingupliftedoroverawedbyform，wearerejoicedbycolor，bythehighvivacityofarrestedmovement，bythestorythatcolorandmovementtell。Andoverallthereisthebright，blue，paintedsky，studded，almostdistractedlystudded，withaplethoraoftheyellowstarstheEgyptiansmadelikestarfish。
　　Therestoredapricot-coloredcolumnsoutsidelookunhappilysuburbanwhenyouarenearthem。Thewhitecolumnswiththeirarchitravesaremorepleasanttotheeyes。Thenichesfullofbrighthues，thearchedchapels，thesmallwhitestepsleadingupwardtoshallowsanctuaries，thesmallblackfoxesfacingeachotheronlittleyellowpedestals——
　　attractonelikethedetailsandamusingornamentsofacleverwoman’sboudoir。Throughthismostcharacteristictempleonerovesinagailyattentivemood，feelingallthetimeHatshepsu’sfascination。
　　Youmayseeher，ifyouwill，alittleladyonthewall，withafacedecidedlysensual——along，straightnose，thicklips，anexpressionratherdeterminedthanagreeable。HermotherlooksasSemiticasaJewmoneylenderinBrickLane，London。Herhusband，ThothmesII。，hasaweakandpoor-spiritedcountenance——decidedlyanaccomplishedperformeronthesecondviolin。Themotherwearsonherheadasnake，nodoubtacobra-di-capello，thesymbolofhersovereignty。Thothmesiscladinaloin-cloth。Andagod，withasleepyexpressionandaveryfish-likehead，appearsinthisgroupofpersonagestoofferthekeyoflife。Anotherpaintingofthequeenshowsheronherkneesdrinkingmilkfromthesacredcow，withanintentandgreedyfigure，andanextraordinarilysensualandexpressiveface。Thatshewaswellguardedissurelyprovedbyabravedisplayofhersoldiers——redmenonawhitewall。Fulloflifeandgaietyallinarowtheycome，holdingweapons，and，apparently，branches，andadvancingwithagaitoftriumphthattellsof"spaciousdays。"Andattheirheadisanofficer，wholooksback，muchlikeamoderndrillsergeant，toseehowhismenaremarching。
　　Inthesouthernshrineofthetemple，cutintherockasisthenorthernshrine，oncemoreIfoundtracesofthe"LadyoftheUnder-
　　World。"ForthisshrinewasdedicatedtoHathor，thoughthewholetemplewassacredtotheThebangodAmun。Uponacolumnweretheremainsofthegoddess’sface，withabroadbrowandlong，largeeyes。
　　Somefanatichadhackedawaythemouth。
　　ThetombofHatshepsuwasfoundbyMr。TheodoreM。Davis，andthefamous/Vache/ofDeir-el-BaharibyMonsieurNavilleaslatelyas1905。ItstandsinthemuseumatCairo，butforeveritwillbeconnectedinthemindsofmenwiththetiger-coloredprecipicesandtheColonnadesofThebes。BehindtheruinsofthetempleofMentu-
　　HotepIII。，inachapelofpaintedrock，theVache-Hathorwasfound。
　　Itisnoteasytoconveybyanydescriptiontheimpressionthismarvellousstatuemakes。Manyofusloveourdogs，ourhorses，someofusadoreourcats;butwhichofuscanthink，withoutasmile，ofworshippingacow？YetthecowwastheEgyptianAphrodite’ssacredanimal。Undertheformofacowshewasoftenrepresented。Andinthestatuesheispresentedtousasalimestonecow。Andpositivelythiscowistobeworshipped。
　　Sheisshownintheactapparentlyofsteppinggravelyforwardoutofasmallarchedshrine，thewallsofwhicharedecoratedwithbrilliantpaintings。Hercolorisredandyellowishred，andiscoveredwithdarkblotchesofaverydarkgreen，whichlookalmostblack。Onlyoneortwoareofabluishcolor。Herheightismoderate。Istandaboutfivefootnine，andIfoundthatonherpedestalthelineofherbackwasaboutlevelwithmychest。Thelowerpartofthebody，muchofwhichisconcealedbytheunderblockoflimestone，iswhite，tingedwithyellow。Thetailisred。Abovethehead，openandclosedlotus-
　　flowersformahead-dress，withthelunardiskandtwofeathers。Andthelonglotus-stalksflowdownoneachsideofthenecktowardtheground。Atthebackofthishead-dressareascarabandacartouche。
　　Thegoddessisadvancingsolemnlyandgently。Awonderfulcalm，amatchless，serenedignity，enfoldher。
　　Inthebodyofthiscowoneisable，indeedoneisalmostobliged，tofeelthesoulofagoddess。Theincredibleisaccomplished。ThedeadEgyptianmakestheironic，theskepticalmodernworldfeeldeityinalimestonecow。Howisitdone？Iknownot;butitisdone。Geniuscandonearlyeverything，itseems。UnderthechinofthecowthereisastandingstatueoftheKingMentu-Hotep，andbeneathherthekingkneelsasaboy。Wonderfullyexpressiveandsolemnlyrefinedisthecow’sface，whichisofdarkcolor，likethecolorofalmostblackearth——earthfertilizedbytheNile。Dignified，dominating，almostbutjustnotstern，stronglyintelligent，and，throughitsbeautifulintelligence，entirelysympathetic（"tounderstandall，istopardonall"），thisface，oncethoroughlyseen，completelynoticed，canneverbeforgotten。Thisisoneofthemostbeautifulstatuesintheworld。
　　WhenIwasatDeir-el-BahariIthoughtofitandwishedthatitstillstoodthereneartheColonnadesofThebesunderthetiger-coloredprecipices。AndthenIthoughtofHatshepsu。Surelyshewouldnotbrookarivalto-daynearthetemplewhichshemade——arivallonglostandlongforgotten。Isnotherinfluencestillthereupontheterracedplatforms，amongtheapricotandthewhitecolumns，nearthepaintingsofthelandofPunt？Diditnotwhispertotheantiquaries，eventothesoldiersfromCairo，whoguardedtheVache-Hathorinthenight，tomakehastetotakeherawayfarfromthehillsofThebesandfromtheNile’slongsouthernreaches，thatthegreatqueenmightoncemorereignalone？Theyobeyed。Hatshepsuwasappeased。And，likeadelicatewoman，perfumedandarranged，clothedinacreationofwhiteandblueandorange，standingeversoknowinglyagainstabackgroundoforangeandpink，ofredandofbrown-red，sherulesatDeir-el-Bahari。
　　XIII
　　THETOMBSOFTHEKINGS
　　OnthewaytothetombsofthekingsIwenttothetempleofKurna，thatlonelycenotaph，withitssand-coloredmassivefa鏰de，itsheapsoffallenstone，itswideandruineddoorway，itsthick，almostrough，columnsrecallingMedinet-Abu。Thereisnotverymuchtosee，butfromthereonehasafineviewofothertemples——oftheRamesseum，lookingsuperb，likeagrandskeleton;ofMedinet-Abu，distant，verypalegoldinthemorningsunlight;oflittleDeir-al-Medinet，theprettychildofthePtolemies，withtheheadsofthesevenHathors。AndfromKurnatheColossiareexceptionallygrandandexceptionallypersonal，sopersonalthatoneimaginesoneseestheexpressionsofthefacesthattheynolongerpossess。
　　Evenifyoudonotgointothetombs——butyouwillgo——youmustridetothetombsofthekings;andyoumust，ifyoucareforthefinesseofimpressions，rideonablazingdayandtowardthehourofnoon。
　　Thentheravineisitself，likethegreatactthatdemonstratesatemperament。Itisthenarrowhomeoffire，hemmedinbybrilliantcolors，nearlyall——perhapsquiteall——ofwhichcouldbefoundinaglowingfurnace。Everyshadeofyellowisthere——lemonyellow，sulphuryellow，theyellowofamber，theyellowoforangewithitstendencytowardred，theyellowofgold，sandcolor，suncolor。Cannotalltheseyellowsbefoundinafire？Andtherearethereds——pinkofthecarnation，pinkofthecoral，redofthelittlerosethatgrowsincertainplacesofsands，redofthebrightflame’sheart。Andallthesecolorsaremingledincompletesterility。Andallarefusedintoafiercebrotherhoodbythesun。andlikeaflood，theyseemflowingtotheredandtheyellowmountains，likeafloodthatisflowingtoitssea。Youaretakenbythemtowardthemountains，onandon，tilltheworldisclosingin，andyouknowthewaymustcometoanend。Anditcomestoanend——inatomb。
　　Yougotoadoorintherock，andaguardianletsyouin，andwantstofollowyouin。Preventhimifyoucan。Payhim。Goinalone。ForthisisthetombofAmenhotepII。;andhehimselfishere，fardown，atrestunderthemountain，thiskingwholivedandreignedmorethanfourteenhundredyearsbeforethebirthofChrist。Theravine-valleyleadstohim，andyoushouldgotohimalone。Heliesintheheartofthelivingrock，inthedullheatoftheearth’sbowels，whichislikenootherheat。Youdescendbystairsandcorridors，youpassoverawellbyabridge，youpassthroughanakedchamber;andthekingisnotthere。Andyougoondownanotherstaircase，andalonganothercorridor，andyoucomeintoapillaredchamber，withpaintingsonitswalls，andonitspillars，paintingsofthekinginthepresenceofthegodsoftheunderworld，understarsinasoftbluesky。Andbelowyou，shutinonthefarthersidebythesolidmountaininwhosebreastyouhaveallthistimebeenwalking，thereisacrypt。Andyouturnawayfromthebrightpaintings，anddownthereyouseetheking。
　　ManyyearsagoinLondonIwenttotheprivateviewoftheRoyalAcademyatBurlingtonHouse。Iwentintheafternoon，whenthegallerieswerecrowdedwithpoliticiansandartists，withdealers，gossips，quidnuncs，and/flaneurs/;withauthors，fashionablelawyers，anddoctors;withmenandwomenoftheworld;withyoungdandiesandactresses/envogue/。Aroarofvoiceswentuptotheroof。Everyonewastalking，smiling，laughing，commenting，andcriticizing。Itwasalittlepictureoftheveryworldlyworldthatlovesthethingsofto-dayandthechimeofthepassinghours。Andsuddenlysomepeoplenearmeweresilent，andsometurnedtheirheadstostarewithastrangelyfixedattention。AndIsawcomingtowardmeanemaciatedfigure，ratherbent，muchdrawntogether，walkingslowlyonlegslikesticks。Itwascladinblack，withagleamofcolor。Aboveitwasafacesointenselythinthatitwaslikethefaceofdeath。Andinthisfaceshonetwoeyesthatseemedfullof——theotherworld。And，likeabreathfromtheotherworldpassing，thismanwentbymeandwashiddenfrommebythethrong。ItwasCardinalManninginthelastdaysofhislife。
　　Thefaceofthekingislikehis，butithasanevendeeperpathosasitlooksupwardtotherock。Andtheking’ssilencebidsyoubesilent，andhisimmobilitybidsyoubestill。Andhissad，andunutterableresignationsiftsawe，asbythedesertwindthesandissiftedintothetemples，intothetempleofyourheart。Andyoufeelthetouchoftime，butthetouchofeternity，too。Andas，inthatrock-hewnsanctuary，youwhisper"/Paxvobiscum/，"yousayitforalltheworld。
　　XIV
　　EDFU
　　PrayerpervadestheEast。Faroffacrossthesands，whenoneistravelinginthedesert，oneseesthinminaretsrisingtowardthesky。
　　Adesertcityisthere。ItsignalsitspresencebythismuteappealtoAllah。Andwheretherearenominarets——inthegreatwastesofthedunes，intheeternalsilence，thelifelessnessthatisnotbrokenevenbyanylonely，wanderingbird——thecamelsarestoppedattheappointedhours，thepoor，andoftenragged，robesarelaiddown，thebrownpilgrimsprostratethemselvesinprayer。Andtherichmanspreadshiscarpet，andprays。Andthehalf-nakednomadspreadsnothing;butheprays，too。TheEastisfulloflustandfullofmoney-getting，andfullofbartering，andfullofviolence;butitisfullofworship——ofworshipthatdisdainsconcealment，thatrecksnotofridiculeorcomment，thatbelievestooutterlytocareifothersdisbelieve。ThereareintheEastmanymenwhodonotpray。Theydonotlaughatthemanwhodoes，liketheunprayingChristian。Thereisnothingludicroustotheminprayer。InEgyptyourNubiansailorpraysinthesternofyourdahabiyeh;andyourEgyptianboatmanpraysbytherudderofyourboat;andyourblackdonkey-boypraysbehindaredrockinthesand;andyourcamel-manprayswhenyouarerestinginthenoontide，watchingthefar-offquiveringmirage，lostinsomewaywarddream。
　　Andmustyounotpray，too，whenyouentercertaintempleswhereoncestrangegodswereworshippedinwhomnomannowbelieves？
　　ThereisonetempleontheNilewhichseemstoembraceinitsarmsalltheworshipofthepast;tobefullofprayersandsolemnpraises;tobetheholder，thenoblekeeper，ofthesacredlongings，oftheunearthlydesiresandaspirations，ofthedead。ItisthetempleofEdfu。Fromalltheothertemplesitstandsapart。Itisthetempleofinwardflame，ofthesecretsoulofman;ofthatmysterywithinusthatisexquisitelysensitive，andexquisitelyalive;thathaslongingsitcannottell，andsorrowsitdarenotwhisper，andlovesitcanonlylove。
　　ToHorusitwasdedicated——hawk-headedHorus——thesonofIsisandOsiris，whowascrownedwithmanycrowns，whowastheyoungApollooftheoldEgyptianworld。ButthoughIknowthis，IamneverabletoassociateEdfuwithHorus，thatchildwearingtheside-lock——whenheisnothawk-headedinhissolaraspect——thatboywithhisfingerinhismouth，thatyouthwhofoughtagainstSet，murdererofhisfather。
　　Edfu，initssolemnbeauty，initsperfectionofform，seemstometopassintoaregionaltogetherbeyondidentificationwiththeworshipofanyspecialdeity，withparticularattributes，perhapswithparticularlimitations;onewhocanbegravenuponwalls，anduponarchitravesandpillarspaintedinbrilliantcolors;onewhocanpersonallypursueacriminal，likesomepolicemaninthestreet;evenonewhocanriseupontheworldinthevisiblegloryofthesun。Tome，Edfumustalwaysrepresenttheworld-worshipof"theHiddenOne";
　　notAmun，godofthedead，fusedwithRa，withAmsu，orwithKhnum：
　　butthatother"HiddenOne，"whoisGodofthehappyhunting-groundofsavages，withwhomtheBuddhiststrivestomergehisstrangeserenityofsoul;whoisadoredinthe"HolyPlaces"bytheMoslem，andliftedmysticallyabovetheheadsofkneelingCatholicsincathedralsdimwithincense，andmerrilypraisedwiththebanjoandthetrumpetinthestreetsofblackEnglishcities;whoisaskedforchildrenbylongingwomen，andfornewdollsbylispingbabes;whomtheatheistdeniesintheday，andfearsinthedarknessofnight;whoisonthelipsalikeofpriestandblasphemer，andinthesoulofallhumanlife。
　　Edfustandsalone，notnearanyothertemple。Itisnotpagan;itisnotChristian：itisaplaceinwhichtoworshipaccordingtothedictatesofyourheart。
　　EdfustandsaloneonthebankoftheNilebetweenLuxorandAssuan。ItisnotveryfarfromEl-Kab，oncethecapitalofUpperEgypt，anditisabouttwothousandyearsold。Thebuildingofittookoveronehundredandeightyyears，anditisthemostperfectlypreservedtempleto-dayofalltheantiqueworld。Itishugeanditissplendid。
　　Ithastowersonehundredandtwelvefeethigh，apropylontwohundredandfifty-twofeetbroad，andwallsfourhundredandfiftyfeetlong。
　　BeguninthereignofPtolemyIII。，itwascompletedonlyfifty-sevenyearsbeforethebirthofChrist。
　　Youknowthesefactsaboutit，andyouforgetthem，oratleastyoudonotthinkofthem。WhatdoesitallmatterwhenyouarealoneinEdfu？
　　Lettheantiquariangowithhisanxiousnosealmosttouchingthestone;lettheEgyptologistpeerthroughhisglassesathieroglyphsandpuzzleoutthemeaningofcartouches：butletuswanderatease，andworshipandregardtheexquisiteform，anddrinkinthemysticalspirit，ofthisverywonderfultemple。
　　Doyoucareaboutform？Hereyouwillfinditinabsoluteperfection。
　　Edfuistheconsecrationofform。InproportionitissupremeaboveallotherEgyptiantemples。Itsbeautyofformislikethechiselledlovelinessofaperfectsonnet。Whiletheworldlasts，noarchitectcanarisetocreateabuildingmoresatisfying，morecalmwiththecalmoffaultlessness，moreserenewithajustserenity。Orsoitseemstome。IthinkofthemostlovelybuildingsIknowinEurope——oftheAlhambraatGranada，oftheCappellaPalatinainthepalaceatPalermo。AndEdfuIplacewiththem——Edfuutterlydifferentfromthem，moredifferent，perhaps，eventhantheyarefromeachother，butakintothem，asallgreatbeautyismysteriouslyakin。IhavespentmorningaftermorningintheAlhambra，andmanyandmanyanhourintheCappellaPalatina;andneverhaveIbeenwearyofeither，orlongedtogoaway。AndthissamesweetdesiretostaycameovermeinEdfu。The/Loulia/wastiedupbythehighbankoftheNile。Thesailorsweregladtorest。Therewasnosteamersoundingitshideoussirentocallmetoitscrowdeddeck。SoIyieldedtomydesire，andforlongIstayedinEdfu。AndwhenatlastIleftitIsaidtomyself，"Thisisasupremething，"andIknewthatwithinmehadsuddenlydevelopedthecuriouspassionforbuildingsthatsomepeopleneverfeel，andthatothersfeelevergrowingandgrowing。
　　Yes，Edfuissupreme。Noalterationcouldimproveit。Anychangemadeinit，howeverslight，couldonlybeharmfultoit。Pureandperfectisitsdesign——broadpropylon，greatopencourtyardwithpillaredgalleries，halls，chambers，sanctuary。Itsdignityanditssobrietyarematchless。Iknowtheymustbe，becausetheytouchedmesostrangely，withakindofreticentenchantment，andIamnotbynatureenamoredofsobriety，ofreticenceandcalm，butaminclinedtodelightinalmostviolentforce，inbrilliance，and，especially，incombinationsofcolor。IntheAlhambraonefindsbothforceandfairylikelightness，deliciousproportions，delicatefantasy，aspellasofsubtlemagicians;intheCappellaPalatina，ajeweledsplendor，combinedwithasmallperfectionofformwhichsimplycaptivatesthewholespiritandleadsittoadoration。InEdfuyouarefacetofacewithhugenessandwithgrandeur;butsoonyouarescarcelyawareofeither——inthesense，atleast，thatconnectsthesequalitieswithacertainoverwhelming，almoststrikingdown，ofthespiritandthefaculties。Whatyouareawareofisyourownimmenseandbeautifulcalmofuttersatisfaction——acalmwhichhasquietlyinundatedyou，likeawavelesstideofthesea。Howrareitistofeelthisabsolutesatisfaction，thispraisingserenity！Thecriticalspiritgoes，likeabirdfromanopenedwindow。Theexcited，laudatory，volublespiritgoes。Andthissplendidcalmisleft。Ifyoustayhere，you，asthistemplehasbeen，willbemoldedintoabeautifulsobriety。Fromthetopofthepylonyouhavereceivedthisstillandgloriousimpressionfromthematchlessdesignofthewholebuilding，whichyouseebestfromthere。Whenyoudescendtheshallowstaircase，whenyoustandinthegreatcourt，whenyougointotheshadowyhalls，thenitisthattheuttersatisfactionwithinyoudeepens。Thenitisthatyoufeeltheneedtoworshipinthisplacecreatedforworship。
　　TheancientEgyptiansmademostoftheirtemplesinconformitywithasingletype。Thesanctuarywasattheheart，thecore，ofeachtemple——thesanctuarysurroundedbythechambersinwhichwerelaidupthepreciousobjectsconnectedwithceremoniesandsacrifices。Leadingtothiscoreofthetemple，whichwassometimescalled"thedivinehouse，"werevarioushallstheroofsofwhichweresupportedbycolumns——thosehypostylehallswhichoneseesperpetuallyinEgypt。
　　Beforethefirstofthesehallswasacourtyardsurroundedbyacolonnade。Inthecourtyardthepriestsofthetempleassembled。Thepeoplewereallowedtoenterthecolonnade。Agatewaywithtowersgaveentrancetothecourtyard。IfonevisitsmanyoftheEgyptiantemples，onesoonbecomesawareofthesubtlety，combinedwithasortofhighsimplicityandsenseofmysteryandpoetry，ofthesebuildersofthepast。Asagreatwriterleadsoneon，withaconcealedbutbeautifulart，fromthefirstwordstowhichalltheotherwordsareministeringservants;asthegreatmusician——Wagnerinhis"Meistersinger，"forinstance——leadsonefromthefirstnotesofhisscoretothosefinalnoteswhichmagnificentlyrevealtothelistenerstherealmeaningofthosefirstnotes，andofallthenoteswhichfollowthem：sotheEgyptianbuildersleadthespiritgently，mysteriouslyforwardfromthegatewaybetweenthetowerstothedistanthousedivine。Whenoneenterstheoutercourt，onefeelsthefar-offsanctuary。Almostunconsciouslyoneisawarethatforthatsanctuaryalltherestofthetemplewascreated;thattothatsanctuaryeverythingtends。Andinspiritoneisdrawnsoftlyonwardtothatveryholyplace。Slowly，perhaps，thebodymovesfromcourtyardtohypostylehall，andfromonehalltoanother。Hieroglyphsareexamined，cartouchespuzzledout，paintingsofprocessions，orbas-reliefsofpastimesandofsacrifices，lookedatwithcareandinterest;butallthetimeonehasthesenseofwaiting，ofawantunsatisfied。Andonlywhenoneatlastreachesthesanctuaryisoneperfectlyatrest。Forthenthespiritfeels："Thisisthemeaningofitall。"
　　OneofthemeanswhichtheEgyptianarchitectsusedtocreatethissenseofapproachisverysimple，butperfectlyeffective。Itconsistedonlyinmakingeachhallonaveryslightlyhigherlevelthantheoneprecedingit，andthesanctuary，whichisnarrowandmysteriouslydarkonthehighestlevelofall。Eachtimeonetakesanupwardstep，orwalksupalittleinclineofstone，thebodyseemstoconveytothesouladeepermessageofreverenceandawe。InnoothertempleisthissenseofapproachtotheheartofathingsoacuteasitiswhenonewalksinEdfu。Innoothertemple，whenthesanctuaryisreached，hasonesuchastrongconsciousnessofbeingindeedwithinasacredheart。
　　ThecolorofEdfuisapaleanddelicatebrown，warminthestrongsunshine，butseldomglowing。Itsfirstdoorwayisextraordinarilyhigh，andisnarrow，butverydeep，witharoofshowingtracesofthatdeliciousclearblue-greenwhichislikeathincryofjoyrisingupinthesolemntemplesofEgypt。Asmallsphinxkeepswatchontheright，justwheretheguardianstands;thisguardian，thegiftofthepast，squat，evenfat，withaveryperfectfaceofadeterminedandhandsomeman。Inthecourt，uponapedestal，standsabigbird，andnearitisanotherbird，orratherhalfofabird，leaningforward，andverymuchdefaced。Andinthisgreatcourtyardthereareswarmsoflivingbirds，twitteringinthesunshine。Throughthedoorwaybetweenthetowersoneseesaglimpseofanativevillagewiththecupolasofamosque。
　　Istoodandlookedatthecupolasforamoment。ThenIturned，andforgotforatimethelifeoftheworldwithout——thatmen，perhaps，wereprayingbeneaththosecupolas，orpraisingtheMoslem’sGod。ForwhenIturned，Ifelt，asIhavesaid，asifalltheworshipoftheworldmustbeconcentratedhere。Standingfardowntheopencourt，inthefullsunshine，Icouldseeintothefirsthypostylehall，butbeyondonlyadarkness——adarknesswhichledmeon，inwhichthefurtherchambersofthehousedivinewerehidden。AsIwentonslowly，theperfectionoftheplanofthedeadarchitectswasgraduallyrevealedtome，whenthedarknessgaveupitssecrets;whenIsawnotclearly，butdimly，thelongwaybetweenthecolumns，thenoblecolumnsthemselves，thegradual，slightupwardslope——graduatedbygenius;thereisnootherword——whichledtothesanctuary，seenatlastasalittledarkness，inwhichallthemysteryofworship，andofthesilentdesiresofmen，wassurelyconcentrated，andkeptbythestoneforever。Eventhesuccessionofthedarknesses，likeshadowsgrowingdeeperanddeeper，seemedplannedbysomegreatartistinthemanagementoflight，andsoofshadoweffects。TheperfectionofformisinEdfu，impossibletodescribe，impossiblenottofeel。Thetremendouseffectithas——aneffectuponthesoul——iscreatedbyacombinationofshapes，ofproportions，ofdifferentlevels，ofdifferentheights，byconsummategraduation。Andtheseshapes，proportions，differentlevels，andheights，areseenindimness。NotthatjewelleddimnessonelovesinGothiccathedrals，buttheheavydimnessofwindowless，mightychamberslightedonlybyarebukeddaylightevertryingtostealin。Oneiscapturedbynoornament，seducedbynolovelycolors。Betterthananyornament，greaterthananyradiantgloryofcolor，isthismassiveausterity。Itisliketheultimateinanart。Everythinghasbeentried，everystrangeness/bizarrerie/，absurdity，everywildschemeofhues，everypreposteroussubject——totakeanextremeinstance，acamel，wearingatop-hat，andlightedupbyfire-works，whichIsawrecentlyinapicture-galleryofMunich。Andattheendageniuspaintsaportraitofawrinkledoldwoman’sface，andtheworldregardsandworships。Oralldiscordshavebeenflungtogetherpell-mell，resolutionofthemhasbeendeferredperpetually，perhapsevendeniedaltogether，chordofBmajorhasbeenstruckwithCmajor，workshaveclosedupontheleadingnoteorthedominantseventh，symphonieshavebeencomposedtobeplayedinthedark，ortobeaccompaniedbyamagic-lantern’sefforts，operasbeenproducedwhicharemerelycarnageandarow——andattheendageniuswritesalittlesong，andtheworldgivesthetributeofitsbreathlesssilenceanditstears。Anditknowsthatthoughotherthingsmaybedone，betterthingscanneverbedone。Fornoperfectioncanexceedanyotherperfection。
　　AndsoinEdfuIfeelthatthisuntintedausterityisperfect;thatwhatevermaybedoneinarchitectureduringfutureagesoftheworld，Edfu，whileitlasts，willremainathingsupreme——supremeinformand，becauseofthissupremacy，supremeinthespellwhichitcastsuponthesoul。
　　Thesanctuaryisjustasmall，beautifullyproportioned，inmostchamber，withablackroof，containingasortofaltarofgranite，andagreatpolishedgraniteshrinewhichnodoubtoncecontainedthegodHorus。Iamgladheisnottherenow。Howfarmoreimpressiveitistostandinanemptysanctuaryinthehousedivineof"theHiddenOne，"
　　whomthenationsoftheworldworship，whethertheyspreadtheirrobesonthesandandturntheirfacestoMecca，orbeatthetambourineandsing"gloryhymns"ofsalvation，orflagellatethemselvesinthenightbeforethepatronsaintofthePassionists，oronlygazeatthesnow-
　　whiteplumethatfloatsfromthesnowsofEtnaundertheroseofdawn，andfeelthesoulbehindNature。AmongthetemplesofEgypt，Edfuisthehousedivineof"theHiddenOne，"theperfecttempleofworship。
　　XV
　　KOMOMBOS
　　Somepeopletalkofthe"sameness"oftheNile;andthereisalovelysamenessofgoldenlight，ofdeliciousair，ofpeople，andofscenery。
　　ForEgyptis，afterall，mainlyagreatriverwithstripsoneachsideofcultivatedland，flat，green，notveryvaried。River，greenplains，yellowplains，pink，brown，steel-grey，orpale-yellowmountains，wailofshadoof，wailofsakieh。Yes，Isupposethereisasameness，asortofgoldenmonotony，inthislandpervadedwithlightandpervadedwithsound。Alwaysthereislightaroundyou，andyouarebathinginit，andnearlyalways，ifyouareliving，asIwas，onthewater，thereisamultitudeofminglingsoundsfloating，floatingtoyourears。Astherearetwolinesofgreenland，twolinesofmountains，followingthecourseoftheNile;soaretheretwolinesofvoicesthatceasetheircallingandtheirsingingonlyasyoudrawneartoNubia。Forthen，withthegreenland，theyfadeaway，thesemilesuponmilesofcallingandsingingbrownmen;andamberandruddysandscreepdownwardtotheNile。Andtheairseemssubtlychanging，andthelightperhapsgrowingalittleharder。Andyouareawareofotherregionsunlikethoseyouareleaving，moreAfrican，moresavage，lesssuave，lesslikeadreaming。Andespeciallythesilencemakesagreatimpressiononyou。Butbeforeyouenterthissilence，betweentheamberandruddywallsthatwillleadyouontoNubia，andtothelandofthecrocodile，youhaveavisittopay。Forhere，highuponaterrace，lookingoveragreatbendoftheriverisKomOmbos。AndKomOmbosisthetempleofthecrocodilegod。
　　SebekwasoneoftheoldestandoneofthemosteviloftheEgyptiangods。IntheFayumhewasworshipped，aswellasatKomOmbos，andthere，intheholylakeofhistemple，werenumbersofholycrocodiles，whichStrabotellsusweredecoratedwithjewelslikeprettywomen。Hedidnotgetonwiththeothergods，andwassometimesconfusedwithSet，whopersonifiednaturaldarkness，andwhoalsowasworshippedbythepeopleaboutKomOmbos。
　　IhavespokenofthegoldensamenessoftheNile，butthissamenessisbrokenbythevarietyofthetemples。Hereyouhaveastrikinginstanceofthisvariety。Edfu，onlyfortymilesfromKomOmbos，thenexttemplewhichyouvisit，isthemostperfecttempleinEgypt。KomOmbosisoneofthemostimperfect。Edfuisadivinehouseof"theHiddenOne，"fullofasacredatmosphere。KomOmbosisthehouseofcrocodiles。InancientdaystheinhabitantsofEdfuabhorred，aboveeverything，crocodilesandtheirworshippers。AndhereatKomOmbosthecrocodilewasadored。Youareinadifferentatmosphere。
　　Assoonasyouland，youaregreetedwithcrocodiles，thoughfortunatelynotbythem。Aheapoftheirblackmummiesisshowntoyoureposinginasortoftomborshrineopenatoneendtotheair。Bythesemummiesthenewnoteisloudlystruck。Thecrocodileshavecarriedyouinaninstantfromthatwhichispervadinglygeneraltothatwhichisnarrowlyparticular;fromthepurelynoble，whichseemstobelongtoalltime，totheentirelybarbaric，whichbelongsonlytotimesoutworn。Itisdifficulttofeelasifonehadanythingincommonwithmenwhoseriouslyworshippedcrocodiles，hadprieststofeedthem，anddecoratedtheirscalyneckswithjewels。
　　YetthecrocodilegodhadanobletempleatKomOmbos，atemplewhichdatesfromthetimesofthePtolemies，thoughtherewasatempleinearlierdayswhichhasnowdisappeared。Itssituationissplendid。ItstandshighabovetheNile，andclosetotheriver，onaterracewhichhasrecentlybeenconstructedtosaveitfromtheencroachmentsofthewater。Anditlooksdownuponaviewwhichisexquisiteintheclearlightofearlymorning。Ontheright，andfaroff，isadeliciouspinkbarenessofdistantflatsandhills。Oppositethereisafloodofverdureandoftreesgoingtomountains，aspitofsandwhereisaninletoftheriver，withacrowdofnativeboats，perhapswaitingforawind。OntheleftisthebigbendoftheNile，singularlybeautiful，almostvoluptuousinform，andgirdledwitharadiantgreenofcrops，withpalm-trees，andagainthedistanthills。SebekwaswelladvisedtohavehistempleshereandinthegloriousFayum，thatlandflowingwithmilkandhoney，wheretheairisfullofthevoicesoftheflocksandherds，andalivewiththewildpigeons;wherethesweetsugar-canetowersupinfairyforests，thebelovedhomeofthejackal;wherethegreencornwavestothehorizon，andtherunletsofwatermakeamazeofsilverthreadscarryinglifeanditshappymurmurthroughallthevastoasis。
　　Attheguardian’sgatebywhichyougointheresitsnotawatchdog，noryetacrocodile，butawatchcat，small，butverydetermined，andveryattentivetoitsduties，andneatlycarvedinstone。Youtrytolooklikeacrocodile-worshipper。Itisdeceived，andletsyoupass。
　　AndyouarealonewiththegrowingmorningandKomOmbos。
　　Iwasnevertaken，caughtupintoanatmosphere，inKomOmbos。I
　　examineditwithinterest，butIdidnotfeelaspell。Itsgrandeurisgreat，butitdidnotaffectmeasdidthegrandeurofKarnak。Itsnobilitycannotbequestioned，butIdidnotstillyrejoiceinit，asinthenobilityofLuxor，orthefreesplendoroftheRamesseum。
　　TheoldestthingatKomOmbosisagatewayofsandstoneplacedtherebyThothmesIII。asatributetoSebek。Thegreattempleisofawarm-
　　browncolor，averyrichandparticularlybeautifulbrown，thatsoothesandalmostcomfortstheeyesthathavebeenformanydaysboldlyassaultedbythesun。Upontheterraceplatformabovetheriveryoufacealowandruinedwall，onwhichtherearesomelivelyreliefs，beyondwhichisalarge，opencourtcontainingaquantityofstunted，oncebigcolumnsstandingonbigbases。Immediatelybeforeyouthetempletowersup，verygigantic，verymajestic，withastonepavement，wallsonwhichstillremainsometracesofpaintings，andreallygrandcolumns，enormousinsizeandingoodformation。Therearefinearchitraves，andsomebitsofroofing，butthegreaterpartisopentotheair。Throughadoorwayisasecondhallcontainingcolumnsmuchlessnoble，andbeyondthisonewalksinruin，amongcrumbledorpartlydestroyedchambers，brokenstatues，becomemereslabsofgraniteandfallenblocksofstone。Attheendisawall，withapavementborderingit，andarowofchambersthatlooklikemonkishcells，closedbysmalldoors。AtKomOmbostherearetwosanctuaries，onededicatedtoSebek，theothertoHeru-ur，orHaroeris，aformofHorusinEgyptiancalled"theElder，"whichwasworshippedwithSebekherebytheadmirersofcrocodiles。Eachofthemcontainsapedestalofgraniteuponwhichoncerestedasacredbarkbearinganimageofthedeity。
　　Therearesomefinereliefsscatteredthroughthesemightyruins，showingSebekwiththeheadofacrocodile，Heru-urwiththeheadofahawksocharacteristicofHorus，andonestrangeanimalwhichhasnofewerthanfourheads，apparentlymeantfortheheadsoflions。OnereliefwhichIspeciallynoticedforitslife，itscharmingvivacity，anditsalmostamusingfidelitytodetailsunchangedto-day，depictsanumberofducksinfullflightnearamassoflotus-flowers。I
　　remembereditonedayintheFayum，sointimatelyassociatedwithSebek，whenIrodetwentymilesoutfromcamponadromedarytotheendofthegreatlakeofKurun，wherethesandwastesoftheLibyandesertstretchtothepaleandwavelesswaterswhich，thatday，lookedcuriouslydesolateandevensinisterunderalow，greysky。Beyondthewirytamarisk-bushes，whichgrowfaroutfromtheshore，thousandsuponthousandsofwildduckwerefloatingasfarastheeyescouldsee。Wetookastrangenativeboat，mannedbytwohalf-nakedfishermen，andwererowedwithbig，broad-bladedoarsoutuponthesilentfloodthatthesilentdesertsurrounded。Buttheduckweretoowaryevertoletusgetwithinrangeofthem。Aswedrewgentlynear，theyroseinblackthrongs，andskimmedlowintothedistanceofthewintrylandscape，trailingtheirlegsbehindthem，liketheduckonthewallofKomOmbos。Therewasnoduckfordinnerincampthatnight，andthecookwasinconsolable。ButIhadseenareliefcometolife，andsurmountedmydisappointment。
　　KomOmbosandEdfu，thetwohousesoftheloversandhatersofcrocodiles，oratleastoftheloversandthehatersoftheirworship，Ishallalwaysthinkofthemtogether，becauseIdriftedonthe/Loulia/fromonetotheother，andsawnointerestingtemplebetweenthemandbecausetheirpersonalitiesareasopposedaswere，centuriesago，thetenetsofthosewhoadoredwithinthem。TheEgyptiansofoldweredevotedtothehuntingofcrocodiles，whichonceaboundedinthereachesoftheNilebetweenAssuanandLuxor，andalsomuchlowerdown。ButIbelievethatnoreliefs，orpaintings，ofthissportaretobefounduponthewallsofthetemplesandthetombs。ThefearofSebek，perhaps，prevailedevenoverthedwellersaboutthetempleofEdfu。Yethowcouldfearofanycrocodilegodinfectthesoulsofthosewhowereprivilegedtoworshipinsuchatemple，orevenreverentlytostandunderthecolonnadewithinthedoor？Aswell，perhaps，onemightaskhowmencouldbeinspiredtoraisesuchaperfectbuildingtoadeitywiththefaceofahawk？ButHoruswasnotthegodofcrocodiles，butagodofthesun。Andhispowertoinspiremenmusthavebeenvast;forthegreatestconcentrationinstoneinEgypt，and，Isuppose，inthewholeworld，theSphinx，asDeRougeprovedbyaninscriptionatEdfu，wasarepresentationofHorustransformedtoconquerTyphon。TheSphinxandEdfu！Forsuchmarvelsweoughttoblessthehawk-headedgod。Andifweforgetthehawk，whichonemeetssoperpetuallyuponthewallsoftombsandtemples，andidentifyHorusratherwiththeGreekApollo，theyellow-hairedgodofthesun，driving"westerlyalldayinhisflamingchariot，"andshootinghisgoldenarrowsatthehappyworldbeneath，wecanbeatpeacewiththosedeadEgyptians。ForeverypilgrimwhogoestoEdfuto-dayissurelyaworshipperofthesolaraspectofHorus。Aslongastheworldlaststherewillbesun-worshippers。EverybrownmanupontheNileisone，andeverygoodAmericanwhocrossestheoceanandcomesatlastintothesombrewonderofEdfu，andIwasoneuponthedeckofthe/Loulia/。
　　Andweallworshipasyetinthedark，asintheexquisitedark，likefaith，oftheHolyofHoliesofHorus。
　　XVI
　　PHILAE
　　AsIdrewslowlynearerandnearertothehomeof"thegreatEnchantress，"or，asIsiswasalsocalledinbygonedays，"theLadyofPhilae，"thelandbegantochangeincharacter，tobefullofanewandbarbaricmeaning。InrecentyearsIhavepaidmanyvisitstonorthernAfrica，butonlytoTunisiaandAlgeria，countriesthatarewilderlooking，andmuchwilderseemingthanEgypt。Now，asI
　　approachedAssuan，Iseemedatlasttobealsoapproachingthereal，theintenseAfricathatIhadknownintheSahara，theenigmaticsiren，savageandstrangeandwonderful，whomthetypicalOuledNail，crownedwithgold，andtuftedwithostrichplumes，paintedwithkohl，tattooed，andperfumed，hungwithgoldencoinsandamulets，andframedinplaitsofcoarse，falsehair，representsindifferentlytotheeyesofthetravellingstranger。ForatlastIsawthesandsthatIlovecreepingdowntothebanksoftheNile。Andtheybroughtwiththemthatwonderfulairwhichbelongsonlytothem——theairthatdwellsamongthedunesinthesolitaryplaces，thatislikethecooltouchofLibertyuponthefaceofaman，thatmakesthebrownchildofthenomadaslithe，tireless，andfierce-spiritedasayoungpanther，andsetsflameintheeyesoftheArabhorse，andgivesspeedofthewindtotheSloughi。Thetrueloverofthedesertcanneverridhissoulofitspassionforthesands，andnowmyheartleapedasIstoleintotheirpureembraces，asIsawtorightandleftambercurvesandsheenyrecesses，shiningridgesandbloomyclefts。Thecleandelicacyofthosesandsthat，inlongandglowinghills，stretchedoutfromNubiatomeetme，whocouldeverdescribethem？Whocouldeverdescribetheirsoftandenticingshapes，theirexquisitegradationsofcolor，thelittleshadowsintheirhollows，thefierybeautyoftheircrests，thepatternsthecoolwindsmakeuponthem？Itisanenchanted/royaume/ofthesandsthroughwhichoneapproachesIsis。
　　Isisandengineers！WeEnglishpeoplehaveeffectedthatcuriousintroduction，andwegreatlyprideourselvesuponit。WehavepresentedSirWilliamGarstin，andMr。JohnBlue，andMr。FitzMaurice，andotherclever，hard-workingmentothefabledLadyofPhilae，andtheyhavegivenheragift：adamtwothousandyardsinlength，uponwhichtouristsgosmilingontrolleys。Isishasherexpensivetribute——itcostaboutamillionandahalfpounds——andnodoubtsheoughttobegratified。
　　YetIthinkIsismournsonalteredPhilae，asshemournswithhersister，Nepthys，attheheadsofsomanymummiesofOsiriansuponthewallsofEgyptiantombs。Andthoughthefellaheenveryrightlyrejoice，therearesomeunpracticalsentimentalistswhoformacompanyabouther，andmaketheirplaintwithhers——theirplaintforthepeacethatisgone，forthelostcalm，thedepartedpoetry，thatoncehung，likeadelicious，likeaninimitable，atmosphere，aboutthepalmsofthe"HolyIsland。"
　　IconfessthatIdreadedtorevisitPhilae。Ihadsweetmemoriesoftheislandthathadbeenwithmeformanyyears——memoriesofstillmorningsunderthepalm-trees，watchingtheglidingwatersoftheriver，orgazingacrossthemtothelongsweepoftheemptysands;
　　memoriesofdrowsy，goldennoons，whenthebrightworldseemedsoftlysleeping，andthealmostdaffodil-coloredtempledreamedunderthequiveringcanopyofblue;memoriesofeveningswhenabenedictionfromtheliftedhandsofRomancesurelyfelluponthetempleandtheislandandtheriver;memoriesofmoonlitnights，whenthespiritsoftheoldgodstowhomthetempleswererearedsurelyheldconversewiththespiritsofthedesert，withMirageandherpaleandevadingsistersofthegreatspaces，underthebrilliantstars。Iwasafraid，becauseI
　　couldnotbelievetheasservationsofcertainpracticalpersons，fullofthehardandalmostangrydesireof"Progress，"thatnoharmhadbeendonebythecreationofthereservoir，butthat，onthecontrary，ithadbenefitedthetemple。Theactionofthewateruponthestone，theysaidwithvehementvoices，insteadoflooseningitandcausingittocrumbleuntimelyaway，hadtendedtohardenandconsolidateit。
　　HereIshouldliketolie，butIresistthetemptation。MonsieurNavillehasstatedthatpossiblytheEnglishengineershavehelpedtoprolongthelivesofthebuildingsofPhilae，andMonsieurMasperohasdeclaredthat"thestateofthetempleofPhilaebecomescontinuallymoresatisfactory。"Sobeit！Longevityhasbeen，byahappychance，secured。Butwhatofbeauty？Whatofthebeautyofthepast，andwhatoftheschemesforthefuture？IsPhilaeeventobeleftasitis，orarethewatersoftheNiletobeartificiallyraisedstillhigher，untilPhilaeceasestobe？Soon，nodoubt，ananswerwillbegiven。
　　Meanwhile，insteadofthelittleislandthatIknew，andthoughtalittleparadisebreathingoutenchantmentinthemidstoftitanicsterility，Ifoundasomethingdiseased。Philaenow，whenoutofthewater，asitwasallthetimewhenIwaslastinEgypt，lookslikeathingstrickenwithsomecreepingmalady——oneofthosemaladieswhichbegininthelowermembersofabody，andworktheirwaygraduallybutinexorablyupwardtothetrunk，untiltheyattaintheheart。
　　Icametoitbythedesert，anddescendedtoShellal——Shellalwithitsrailway-station，itsworkmen’sbuildings，itstents，itsdozensofscreenstoprotectthehewersofstonefromtheburningraysofthesun，itsbustleofpeople，ofoverseers，engineers，andworkmen，Egyptian，Nubian，Italian，andGreek。ThesilenceIhadknownwasgone，thoughthedesertlayallaround——thegreatsands，thegreatmassesofgranitethatlookasifpatientlywaitingtobefashionedintoobelisks，andsarcophagi，andstatues。Butawaythereacrossthebendoftheriver，dominatingtheuglyrummageofthisintrusivebeehiveofhumanbees，sheergraceovercomingstrengthbothofnatureandhumannature，rosethefabled"Pharaoh’sBed";gracious，tender，fromShellalmostdelicatelyperfect，andglowingwithpalegoldagainstthegrimbackgroundofthehillsonthewesternshore。Itseemedtopleadformercy，likesomethingfemininethreatenedwithoutrage，toprotestthroughitsmerebeauty，asawomanmightprotestbyanattitude，againstfurtherdesecration。
　　AndinthedistancetheNileroaredthroughthemanygatesofthedam，makinganswertotheprotest。
　　Whatironywasinthisscene！IntheolddaysofEgyptPhilaewassacredground，wastheNile-protectedhomeofsacerdotalmysteries，wasaveritableMeccatothebelieversinOsiris，towhichitwasforbiddeneventodrawnearwithoutpermission。TheancientEgyptianssworesolemnly"ByhimwhosleepsinPhilae。"Nowtheysometimesswearangrilyathimwhowakesin，oratleastby，Philae，andkeepsthemsteadilygoingattheirappointedtasks。Andinsteadofitbeingforbiddentodrawneartoasacredspot，needymenfromforeigncountriesflockthitherineagercrowds，nottoworshipinbeauty，buttoearnalivingwage。
　　And"Pharaoh’sBed"looksoutoverthewaterandseemstowonderwhatwillbetheend。
　　IwasgladtoescapefromShellal，pursuedbytheshriekofanengineannouncingitsdeparturefromthestation，gladtobeonthequietwater，toputitbetweenmeandthatcrowdofbusyworkers。BeforemeIsawavastlake，notunlovely，whereoncetheNileflowedswiftly，faroffagreysmudge——theverydamnabledam。Allaroundmewasagrimandcruelworldofrocks，andofhillsthatlookalmostlikeheapsofrubbish，someofthemgrey，someofthemincolorsodarkthattheyresemblethelavatorrentspetrifiednearCatania，orthe"BlackCountry"inEnglandthroughwhichonerushesonone’swaytothenorth。Justhereandthere，sweetlyalmostasthepinkblossomsofthewildoleander，whichIhaveseenfromSicilianseasliftingtheirheadsfromthecrevicesofsearocks，theamberandrosysandsofNubiasmileddownovergrit，stone，andgranite。
　　ThesettingofPhilaeissevere。Eveninbrightsunshineithasanironlook。Onagreyorstormydayitwouldbeforbiddingoreventerrible。IntheoldwintersandspringsonelovedPhilaethemorebecauseofthecontrastofitssettingwithitsownlyricalbeauty，itscurioustendernessofcharm——acharminwhichtheisleitselfwasmingledwithitsbuildings。Butnow，andbeforemyboathadtouchedthequay，Isawthattheislandmustbeignored——ifpossible。
　　Thewaterwithwhichitisentirelycoveredduringagreatpartoftheyearseemstohavecastablightuponit。Theveryfewpalmshaveadroopingandtragicair。Thegroundhasagangrenedappearance，andmuchofitshowsacrawlingmassofunwholesome-lookingplants，whichseemcrouchingdownasifashamedoftheirbrutalexposurebytherecededriver，andofharshandyellow-greengrass，unattractivetotheeyes。AsIsteppedonshoreIfeltasifIweresteppingondisease。Butatleasttherewerethebuildingsundisturbedbyanyoutrage。AgainIturnedtoward"Pharaoh’sBed，"towardthetemplestandingapartfromit，whichalreadyIhadseenfromthedesert，nearShellal，gleamingwithitsgracioussand-yellow，liftingitsseriesofstraightlinesofmasonryabovetheriverandtherocks，looking，fromadistance，verysimple，withasimplicitylikethatofclearwater，butasenticingasthelightonthefirstrealdayofspring。
　　Iwentfirstto"Pharaoh’sBed。"
　　Imagineawomanwithaperfectlylovelyface，withfeaturesasexquisitelyproportionedasthose，say，ofPraxiteles’sstatueoftheCnidianAphrodite，forwhichKingNicomedeswaswillingtoremittheentirenationaldebtofCnidus，andwithawarmlywhiterose-leafcomplexion——oneofthosecomplexionsonesometimesseesinItalianwomen，colorless，yetsuggestivealmostofglow，ofpurity，withtheflameofpassionbehindit。Imaginethatwomanattackedbyamaladywhichleavesherfeaturesexactlyastheywere，butwhichchangesthecolorofherface——fromthethroatupwardtojustbeneaththenose——
　　fromthewarmwhitetoamottled，greyishhue。Imaginethelinethatwouldseemtobetracedbetweenthetwocomplexions——themottledgreybelowthewarmwhitestillglowingabove。Imaginethis，andyouhave"Pharaoh’sBed"andthetempleofPhilaeastheyareto-day。
　　XVII
　　"PHARAOH’SBED"
　　"Pharaoh’sBed，"whichstandsaloneclosetotheNileontheeasternsideoftheisland，isnotoneofthoserugged，majesticbuildings，fullofgrandeurandsplendor，whichcanbear，can"carryoff，"asitwere，acruellyimposeduglinesswithoutbeingaffectedasawhole。Itis，onthecontrary，asmall，almostanairy，andafemininelyperfectthing，inwhichasingularlovelinessofformwascombinedwithasingularlovelinessofcolor。Thespellitthrewoveryouwasnotsomuchaspellwovenofdetailsasaspellwovenofdivineuniformity。
　　Toputitinverypracticallanguage，"Pharaoh’sBed"was"allofapiece。"Theformwasmarriedtothecolor。Thecolorseemedtomeltintotheform。Itwasindeedabedinwhichthesoulthatworshipsbeautycouldresthappilyentranced。Nothingjarred。Antiquariessaythatapparentlythisbuildingwasleftunfinished。Thatmaybeso。ButforallthatitwasoneofthemostfinishedthingsinEgypt，essentiallyathingtoinspirewithinonethe"perfectcalmthatisGreek。"TheblightingtouchoftheNile，whichhaschangedthebeautifulpaleyellowofthestoneofthelowerpartofthebuildingtoahideousanddrearygrey——whichmademethinkofasteelknifeonwhichliquidhasbeenspiltandallowedtorun——hasdestroyedtheuniformity，thebalance，thefaultlessmelodyliftedupbyformandcolor。Andsoitiswiththetemple。Itis，asitwere，cutintwobytheintrusionintoitofthishideous，mottledcomplexionleftbytherecededwater。Everywhereoneseesdiseaseonthewallsandcolumns，almostblottingoutbas-reliefs，givingtotheiractivefiguresamorbid，asicklylook。TheeffectisspeciallydistressingintheopencourtthatprecedesthetemplededicatedtotheLadyofPhilae。Inthiscourt，whichisatthesouthernendoftheisland，theNileatcertainseasonsisnowforcedtoriseverynearlyashighasthecapitalsofmanyofthecolumns。Theconsequenceofthisisthatherethediseaseseemsmakingrapidstrides。Onefeelsitisdrawingneartotheheart，andthatthepoor，doomedinvalidmaycollapseatanymoment。