DuringthelastfiftyyearsFrencharistocratshaveceasedtobefactorseveninmatterssocial,thesceptretheyonceheldhavingpassedintoalienhands,thedaughtersofAlbiontoagreatextentreplacingtheirFrenchrivalsininfluencingthewaysofthe"world,"—achange,beitremarkedinpassing,thathasnotimprovedthetoneofsocietyorcontributedtothespreadofgoodmanners。
  PeopleliketheFrenchnobles,engagedinsulkingandattemptingtooverthroworboycotteachsucceedingregime,mustnaturallylosetheirinfluence。Theyhaveheldaloofsolong—fearingtocompromisethemselvesbyanyadvancestothepowersthatbe,andrestrainedbycountlesstraditionsfromtakinganactivepartineitherthesocialorpoliticalstrife—thatlittlebylittletheyhavebeenpassedbyandignored;
  whichisapity,foramidtheruinofmanyhopesandambitionstheyhaveremainedtruetotheircasteandhandeddownfromgenerationtogenerationthesecretofthatgraciousurbanityandtactwhichdistinguishedtheGallicnoblewomaninthelastcenturyfromtherestofherkindandmadehersodeftinthedifficultartofpleasing—andbeingpleased。
  Withinthelastfewyearstherehave,however,beensignsofachange。Youngmembersofhistorichousesshowanamusinginclinationtoescapefromtheirausteresurroundingsandresumetheplacetheirgrandparentsabdicated。Ifitisimpossibletoruleasformerly,theyatanyrateintendtogetsomefunoutofexistence。
  Thisjoyousmovementtothefrontisbeingmadebytheyoungmatronsenlistedunderthe"Sevenlittleduchesses’"banner。
  Oddlyenough,abaker’shalf—dozenofducalcoronetsarewornatthismoment,inFrance,bysmallandsprightlywomen,whohaveshakenthedustofcenturiesfromthoseornamentsandsportthemwithadecidedlymodernair!
  Itisthemembersofthiscliquewho,inParisduringthespring,attheirchateauxinthesummerandautumn,andontheRivieraafterChristmas,leadtheamusementsandstrikethekeyforthemodernFrenchworld。
  Nooneoftheselight—heartedladiestakesanyparticularprecedenceovertheothers。Allareyoung,andsomearewonderfullynicetolookat。TheDuchessed’Uzesis,perhaps,thehandsomest,goodlooksbeinganinheritancefromhermother,thebeautifulandwaywardDuchessedeChaulme。
  Thereisavividgraceaboutthedaughter,anintensevitalitythatsuggestssomebeautifulbeingoftheforest。Asshemovesandspeaksonealmostexpectstohearthequickbreathcomingandgoingthroughherquiveringnostrils,andseefoamonherfulllips。Hermother’stragicdeathhasthrownaglamorofromancearoundthedaughter’slifethatheightensthewitcheryofherbeauty。
  NextingoodlookscomesanAmerican,theDuchessedelaRochefoucauld,althoughmarriage(which,asdeMaupassantremarked,israrelybecoming)hasnotbeenpropitioustothatgentlelady。Byrightssheshouldhavebeenmentionedfirst,asherhusbandoutranks,notonlyallthemenofhisage,butalsohiscousin,theoldDucdelaRochefoucauld—Doudeauville,towhom,however,asortofbrevetrankisaccordedonaccountofhisyears,hiswealth,andthehighrankofhistwowives。
  ItmightalmostbeassertedthatourfaircompatriotwearstheoldestcoronetinFrance。Shecertainlyismistressofthreeofthefinestchateauxinthatcountry,amongwhichisMiromail,wherethefamilylive,andLiancourt,asuperbRenaissancestructure,adelighttotheartist’ssoul。
  TheyoungDuchessedeBrissacrunshertwocomradescloseasregardslooks。BrissacisthesonofMme。deTredern,whomNewporterswillremembertwoyearsago,whensheenjoyedsomeweeksofoursummerseason。TheirchateauwasbuiltbytheBrissacofHenriIV。’stimeandisoneofthefewthatescapeduninjuredthroughtheRevolution,itsvaststonecorridorsandmassiveoakceilings,itsmoatandbattlements,standingto—
  dayunimpairedamidagroupofchateauxincludingChaumont,Rochecotte,Azay—le—Rideau,Usse,Chenonceau,within"dining"
  distanceofeachother,thatformacentreofgayetynextinimportancetoParisandCannes。Intheautumnthesespaciouscastlesarefilledwithjoyousbandsandtheiramplestableswithhorses。Acoupleofyearsago,whenthekingofPortugalandhissuitewereentertainedatChaumontforaweekofstag—
  hunting,overthreehundredpeople,servants,andguests,sleptunderitsroof,andtwohundredhorseswerehousedinitsstables。
  TheDucdeLuynesandhiswife,whowasMlle。deCrussol(daughterofthebrilliantDuchessed’UzesofBoulangerfame),liveatDampierre,anotherinterestingpilefilledwithrarepictures,bric—a—brac,andstatuary,firstamongwhichisJeanGoujon’slife—sizedstatue(insilver)ofLouisXIII。,presentedbythatmonarchtohisfavorite,thefounderofthehouse。ThisgemoftheRenaissancestandsinanoctagonalchamberhungindarkvelvet,uniqueamongstatues。Ithasbeenshownbutonceinpublic,attheLoanExhibitionin1872,whenthepatrioticnobilitylenttheirtreasurestocollectafundfortheAlsace—Lorraineexiles。
  TheDuchessedeNoailles,NEEMlle。deLuynes,isanotherofthiscoterieandoneofthefewFrenchnoblewomenwhohastravelled。ManyAmericanswillrememberthevisitshemadeherewithhermothersomeyearsago,andtheeffecthergirlishgraceproducedatthattime。ThedeNoailles’chateauofMaintenonisaninheritancefromLouisXIV。’sprudishfavorite,whofoundedandenrichedthedeNoaillesfamily。
  TheDucandDuchessed’UzeslivenearbyatBonnellewiththeoldDucdeDoudeauville,hergrandfather,whoisalsothegrandfatherofMme。deNoailles,thesetwoladiesbeingdescendedeachfromawifeoftheoldduke,theformerfromthePrincessedePolignacandthelatterfromthePrincessedeLigne。
  TheDuchessedeBisaccia,NEEPrincesseRadziwill,andtheDuchessed’Harcourt,whocompletethecircleofseven,alsoliveinthisvicinity,whereanothergroupofhistoricresidences,includingEclimontandRambouillet,thesummerhomeofthepresident,rivalsingayetyandhospitalitythechateauxoftheLoire。
  NocoterieinEnglandorinthiscountrycorrespondsatalltothisFrenchcommunity。Muchastheylovetoamusethemselves,theideaofmeetinganybuttheirownsethasneverpassedthroughtheirwell—dressedheads。Theydifferfromtheirparentsinthattheyhavebrokenawayfrommanyantiquatedhabits。Theirhousesarenolongerlayhermitages,andtheiroperaboxesareregularlyfilled,butnoforeigneriseverreceived,noambitiousparvenuacceptedamongthem。Ostracismheremeansnotatenyears’exile,butlifelongbanishment。
  Thecontrastisstrongbetweenthisrigorandtheenthusiasmwithwhichwealthynew—comersarewelcomedintoLondonsocietyorbyourownuppercrust,sofullofunpalatablepiecesofdough。ThisexclusivenessofthetitledFrenchremindsme—
  incongruouslyenough—ofacertainarrangementofgravesinaLenoxcemetery,wherethemembersofanoldNewEnglandfamilylieburiedinacirclewiththeirfeettowarditscentre。
  WhenIasked,manyyearsago,thereasonforthisarrangement,awitofthatday—adaughter,bythebye,ofMrs。Stowe—
  replied,"SothatwhentheyriseattheLastDayonlymembersoftheirownfamilymayfacethem!"
  OneisstruckbyanotherpeculiarityoftheseFrenchmenandwomen—theirastonishingproficiencyinLESARTSD’AGREMENT。
  EveryFrenchwomanofanypretensionstofashionbacksherbeautyandgracewithsomeartinwhichsheissuretobeproficient。ThedowagerDuchessed’Uzesisasculptorofmark,andwhenduringtheautumnMme。deTrederngivesoperaatBrissac,shefindslittledifficultyinrecruitinghertroupefromamongtheyouthsandmaidensunderherroofwhosemusicaleducationhasbeenthoroughenoughtoenablethemtosingdifficultmusicinpublic。
  Loveofthefineartsisfeltintheirconversation,inthearrangementanddecorationoftheirhomes,andintheinterestthatanexhibitionofpicturesoroldfurniturewillexcite。
  FewofthesepeoplebutareHABITUESoftheHotelDrouotandconversantwiththevalueandauthenticityoftheworksofartdailysoldthere。Suchelementscombinetoformanatmospherethatdoesnotexistinanyothercountry,andlendsaninteresttosocietyinFrancewhichitisfarfrompossessingelsewhere。
  ThereisbutonewaythatanoutsidercanenterthisGallicparadise。Bymarryingintoit!Twoofthesevenladiesinquestionlackthequarteringsoftherest。MissMitchellwasonlyacharmingAmericangirl,andthemotherofthePrincesseRadziwillwasMlle。BlancofMonteCarlo。However,asinmostreligionsthereareceremoniesthatpurify,sointhiscasethesacramentofmarriageissupposedtohavereconstructedthesewivesandmadethemgenealogicallywhole。
  Thereissomethingincongruoustomostpeopleintheideaofayounggirlhardlyoutoftheschoolroombearingaponderoustitle。Thepompandcircumstancethatsurroundhistoricnamesconnectthem(throughourreading)withstatelymatronsplayingthe"heavyfemale"rolesinlife’sdrama,muchasLadyMacbeth’snameevokestheideaofaraw—bonedmother—in—lawsortofperson,thereverseofattractive,andquitethelastwomanintheworldtoeggherhusbandontoacrime—unlessitwerewifemurder!
  NameslikedeChevreuse,ordelaRochefoucauld,seemappropriateonlytothewarlikeamazonsoftheFronde,orcorpulentkill—joysinpowderandcourttrainsoftheMme。
  Etiquetteschool;itcomesasashock,onbeingpresentedtoagroupofgirlishfiguresinthelatestcutofgolfingskirts,whoarechatteringoddsontheGrandPrixinfaultlessEnglish,torealizethattheselight—heartedGAMINESarethepresentownersofsonoroustitles。OneshudderstothinkwhatwouldhavebeentheeffectonpoorMarieAntoinette’spriggishmentorcouldshehaveforeseenhergranddaughter,cladinknickerbockers,runningapetroleumtricycleinthestreetsofParis,orpedalling"tandem"acrosscountrybehindsomeyoungcavalryofficerofherconnection。
  Letnosimple—mindedAmericanimagine,however,thattheseup—
  to—datewomenarewaitingtowelcomehimandhisfamilytotheirintimacy。TheworldoutsideofFrancedoesnotexistforaproperlybroughtupFrencharistocrat。Fewhavetravelled;fromtheirpointofview,anymanwithmoney,bornoutsideofFrance,isa"Rasta,"unlesshecomewithdiplomaticrank,inwhichcasehispositionathomeiscarefullyferretedoutbeforeheisentertained。WealthyforeignersmayliveforyearsinParis,withoutmeetingasinglememberofthiscoterie,whowill,however,joinanynewclubthatpromisestobeamusing;butassoonasthe"Rastas"
  getafooting,"theseven"andtheirfollowingwithdraw。
  Puteauxhaditsday,thenthe"PoloClub"intheBoisbecametheirrendezvous。ButaseverywealthyAmericanand"smart"
  EnglishwomanpassingthespringinParisrushedforthattooopencircle,liketackstowardamagnet,itwasfinallycutbythe"Duchesses,"who,togetherwithsuchattractiveaides—de—
  campasthePrincessedePoix,Mmes。deMurat,deMorny,anddeBroglie,inauguratedlastspring"TheLadies’CluboftheAcacias,"onatinyislandbelongingtothe"TirauxPigeons,"
  which,forthemoment,isthefadofitsfounders。
  ItmustbeasurprisetothosewhodonotknowFrenchfamilypridetolearnthatexclusiveasthesewomenaretherearecliquesinFrancetodaywhosemembersconsidertheladieswehavebeenspeakingofaslackinginreserve。MenlikeGuydeDurfort,DucdeLorges,ortheDucdeMassa,andtheirwomenkind,holdthemselvesaloofonaninfinitelyhigherplane,associatingwithveryfewandscorningthevulgarherdof"smart"people!
  Itwouldseemasifsuchavigorousweedingoutoftheunworthywouldresultinaratherrestrictedcomradeship。Whothe"elect"aremustbecomeeachyearmoredifficulttodiscern。
  TheirpointofviewinthiscasecannotdiffermateriallyfromthatoftheoldMethodistlady,who,whileshewasquitesurenooneoutsideofherownsectcouldpossiblybesaved,hadgravefearsconcerningthefutureofmostofthecongregation。
  Shefelthopefulonlyoftheclergymanandherself,adding:
  "TherearedayswhenIhavemedoubtsabouttheminister!"
  Chapter22—GrowingOldUngracefullyTHEREcomes,wearetold,acrucialmoment,"atide"inalllives,thattakenattheflood,leadsontofortune。Anassertion,bythebye,whichisopentodoubt。Whatdoescometoeveryoneisanhourfraughtwithwarning,which,ifunheeded,leadsontofolly。Thisfatefuldatecoincidesformostofuswiththediscoverythatweareturninggray,orthatthe"crow’sfeet"orourtemplesarebecomingvisiblerealities。Theunpleasantquestionthenpresentsitself:Arewetoslipmeeklyintomiddleage,orarearmsbetakenupagainstourinsidiousenemy,andtherestoflifebecomealosingbattle,foughtinchbyinch?
  Inotherdaysitwasthemenwhostruggledthehardestagainsttheirfate。Uptothiscentury,themalehadalwaysbeentheornamentalmemberofafamily。Caesar,weread,covetedalaurelcrownprincipallybecauseitwouldhelptoconcealhisbaldness。ThewigsoftheGrandMonarquearehistorical。Itischaracteristicofthetimethatthelatter’sattemptsatrejuvenationshouldhavebeentakenasamatterofcourse,whileafewyearslaterpoorMadamedePompadour’sartificestoretainherfleetingyouthwerelaughedatanddecried。
  To—daythesituationisreversed。Thebattle,givenupbythemen—whonowaccepttheirfatewithequanimity—isbeingwagedbytheirbetterhalveswithavigorheretoforeunknown。
  Sogeneralhasthismaniabecomethatifaskedwhatoneweaknesswasmostcharacteristicofmodernwomen,whatpeculiaritymarkedthemasdifferentfromtheirsistersinothercenturies,Ishouldunhesitatinglyanswer,"Thedesiretolookyoungerthantheiryears。"
  ThatpeopleshouldlongtobehandsomerortallerorbetterproportionedthanacruelProvidencehasmadethem,isnaturalenough;butthatsomuchtimeandtroubleshouldbespentsimplyintryingtolook"young,"doesseemunreasonable,especiallywhenitisevidenttoeverybodythatsucheffortsmust,inthenatureofthings,befailures。Themenorwomenwhodonotlooktheiragearerare。Ineachgenerationthereareexceptions,peoplewho,fromonecauseoranother—
  generallyanexcellentconstitution—succeedinproducingtheillusionofyouthforafewyearsafteryouthitselfhasflown。
  Acuriousfatalitythathastheairofanemesispursuesthosewhosucceedingivingthisfalseappearance。Whenpointingthemouttostrangers,theiradmirers(inordertomakethecontrastmoreeffective)addadecadeorsototherealage。
  OnlylastmonthIwassittingatdinneroppositeafamousFrenchbeauty,whoatfiftysucceedsinlookingbarelythirty。
  Duringthemealbothmyneighborsdirectedattentiontoherappearance,andineachcasesaid:"Isn’tsheawonder!Youknowshe’soversixty!"Soallthatpoorladygainedbylookingyouthfulwastenyearsaddedtoherage!
  Thedesiretoremainattractiveaslongaspossibleisnotonlyareasonablebutacommendableambition。Unfortunatelythestupidmeansmostofourmatronsadopttoaccomplishthisendproduceexactlytheoppositeresult。
  Onesignofdeficienttasteinourdayisthisfailuretoperceivethateveryagehasacharmofitsownwhichcanbeenhancedbyappropriatesurroundings,butislostwhenplacedinanincongruoussetting。Itsaddensaloverofthebeautifultoseematronsgoingsofarastrayintheirdesiretopleaseastoposeforyoungwomenwhentheynolongercanlookthepart。
  Holmes,inMYMAIDENAUNT,asksplaintively:—
  WHYWILLSHETRAINTHATWINTRYCURLINSUCHASPRINGLIKEWAY?
  Thatthisfollyisintheairto—day,fewwilldispute。Itseemstobeperpetratedunconsciouslybythegreaternumber,withnoparticularobjectinview,simplybecauseotherpeopledoit。Anunanswerableargumentwhenusedbyoneofthefairsex!
  Fewmatronsstoptothinkforthemselves,ortheywouldrealizethatbyappearinginthesameattireastheirdaughterstheychallengeacomparisonwhichcanonlybetotheirdisadvantage,andshouldbeifpossibleavoided。Isthereanydisillusionmorepainfulthan,onapproachingwhatappearedfromadistancetobeayounggirl,tofindone’sselffacetofacewithsixtyyearsofwrinkles?Thatisamodernversionofthesaying,"anoldheadonyoungshoulders,"withavengeance!Ifmistakensexagenarianscoulddivinetheeffectthattiredeyessmilingfromunderfalsehair,agedthroatsclaspedwithcollarsofpearls,andrheumaticoldribsbracedintoasemblanceofgirlishgrace,produceonthemenforwhosebenefitsuchadornmentshavebeenarranged,reformwouldquicklyfollow。Thereissomethingabsolutelyuncannyintheillusion。Themoresuccessfulitis,themoreweirdtheeffect。
  NoonewantstoseePoloniusinthefineryofMercutio。Whatasenseoffitnessdemandsis,onthecontrary,a"makeup"inkeepingwiththerole,whichdoesnotmeanthatawomanistobecomeafrump,butonlythatsheistomakeherselfattractiveinanotherway。
  DuringtheANCIENREGIMEinFrance,mattersoftastewereconsideredall—important;anentirecourtwouldconsultontheshadeofabrocade,andhailanewcoiffureasanevent。Thegreatladieswhohadlefttheiryouthbehindneverthencommittedtheblunder,socommonamongourmiddle—agedladies,ofapingthemaidensoftheday。Theywerefartoocleverforthat,andappreciatedtheadvantagestobegainedfromsombrestuffsandflatteringlaces。LetthosewhodoubtstudyNattier’sexquisiteportraitofMariaLeczinska。Nothingintheposeortoiletsuggestsadesireonthepainter’sparttorejuvenatehissitter。Ifanything,thequeen’sageisemphasizedassomethinghonorable。Thegrayhairissimplyarrangedandpartlyveiledwithblacklace,whichsetsoffherdelicate,fadedfacetoperfection,butwithoutflatteryorfraud。
  WefindthesameviewtakenofagebythemastersoftheRenaissance,whoappreciateditscharmandlovedtoreproduceitsgrace。
  QueenElizabethstandsoutinhistoryasawomanwhostruggledungracefullyagainstgrowingold。Herwigsandhoopsandfarthingalesservedonlytomakeherridiculous,andthefactthatshewishedtobepaintedwithoutshadowsinordertoappear"young,"isrecordedasanaberrationofagreatmind。
  Aretherenopaintersto—daywhowillwhispertoourwivesandmothersthesecretoflookingreallylovely,andpersuadethemtoabandontheirfoolisheffortsatrejuvenation?
  Letusseesomerealoldladiesoncemore,astheylookatusfromminiatureandportrait。Fewofus,Iimagine,butcherishthememoryofsomesuchbeingintheoldhome,asoft—
  voicedgrandmother,withsilveryhairbrushedunderadiscreetandflatteringcap,withsoft,darkraimentandtulle—wrappedthroat。Therearestill,itistobehoped,manysuchlovablewomeninourland,butattimesIlookaboutmeindismay,andwonderwhoistotaketheirplaceswhentheyaregone。Aretheretobenomore"oldladies"?Willthenextgenerationhavetolookbackwhentheword"grandmother"ismentioned,toastylishvisioninParisianapparel,decolleteanddeckedinjewels,orarrayedincockylittlebonnets,perchedontousledcurls,knowingjackets,andgolfingskirts?
  Thepresenthorrorofanythingelderlycomes,probably,fromthefactthattheprecedinggenerationwenttotheotherextreme,youngwomenretiringatfortyintobecappedoldage。
  Knowinghoweasilyourexcitableracerunstoexaggeration,onetremblestothinkwhatsurprisesthefuturemayhold,orwhatwillbethenextdecreeofDameFashion。Havingeliminatedthe"oldlady"fromoffthefaceoftheearth,howfastshallwecontinuedownthefatalslopetowardtheridiculous?Shallwebecompelledbyacurrentstrongerthanourwillstoarrayourselveseachyear(thebarethoughtmakesoneshudder)inmoreandmoreyouthfulapparel,untilcorpulentsenatorstaketorunningaboutin"sailorsuits,"
  andoctogenarianbusinessmengo"downtown"in"pinafores,"
  whilebellesofsixtyorseventysummersappearinKateGreenawaycostumes,anddineoutinshort—sleevedbibs,whichwillallowcoyglimpsesoftheircunningoldanklestoappearovertheirsocks?
  Chapter23—AroundaSpringTHEgreatestpieceofgoodluckthatcanbefallaContinentalvillageisthediscovery,withinitslimits,ofaspringsupplyingsomekindofmalodorouswater。Fromthatmomenttheentirecommunity,abandoningallotherplans,givethemselvesovertohatchingtheirgoldenegg,experiencehavingtaughtthemthatnoothersourceofprosperitycancomparewithaSOURCETHERMALE。Ifthewaterofthenewfoundspring,besideshavinganunpleasantsmell,isalsohot,thenProvidencehasindeedblessedthetownship。
  Thefirststepistohavethefluidanalyzedbyacelebrity,anditsmedicinalqualitiesdulysetforthinacertificate。
  Thesecondistogetofficialrecognitionfromthegovernmentandtheauthorizationtoerectabathhouse。Oncethesepreliminariesaccomplished,thewayliesplainbeforethefortunatevillage;everycitizen,fromthemayordowntothehumblestlaborer,devoteshimselftosolvingtheall—importantproblemhowtoattractstrangerstotheplaceandkeepandamusethemwhentheyhavebeensecured。
  Multicoloredpamphletsdetailingthelocalattractionsaremailedtothefourcornersoftheearth,andbrilliantchromosofthevillage,withgroupsofpeasantsintheforeground,wearingpicturesquecostumes,arepostedineveryavailablerailwaystationandbooking—office,regardlessofthefactthatnocostumeshavebeenknownintheneighborhoodforhalfacentury,exceptthoseprovidedbythehotelproprietorsfortheirhousemaids。Anationaldress,however,hasafineeffectintheadvertisement,andgivesalocalcolortothescene。What,forinstance,wouldAthensbewithoutthatsuperbindividualinnationalget—upwhomoneissuretoseebeforethehotelonalightingfromtheomnibus?IamconvincedthathehasgivenasmuchpleasureastheAcropolistomosttravellers;theknowledgethatthehotelproprietorssharetheexpensesofhiskeepandtoiletcannotdispelthecharmofthosescarletembroideriesandglitteringarms。
  Afterpreparingtheirtrap,thewilyinhabitantsofanewwatering—placehaveonlytositdownandawaitevents。Thefirstpeopletoappearonthesceneare,naturally,theEnglish,somehiddennaturallawcompellingthatracetowanderforeverininexpensiveby—waysandserveaspioneersforothernations。Nomatterhowneworinaccessiblethespring,youaresuretofindasmallcolonyofBritonsinstalledinthehalf—finishedhotels,readingweek—oldeditionsoftheTIMES,andgrumblingovertheincreaseinpricessincetheyearbefore。
  AssoonasthefirststrayBritonshavedevelopedintoan"Englishcolony,"themunicipalityconsiderthemselvesauthorizedtoconstructacasinoandopenavenues,whicharesoonborderedbyyoungtreesandyoungervillas。InthewakeoftheEnglishcomeinvalidsofothernationalities。Ifawandering"crownedhead"canbesecuredforaseason,agreatstepisgained,asthatwillattracttherealpayingpublicandtheAmericans,whoasageneralthingarethelasttoappearonthescene。
  Atthisstageofitsevolution,the"cityfathers"buildatheatreinconnectionwiththeircasino,and(persuadingthegovernmenttowinkattheirevasionofthegamblinglaws)addgamesofchancetotheothertemptationsoftheplace。
  Thereisnobetterexampleofthewayaspringcanbedevelopedbycleverhandling,andsatisfactoryresultsobtainedfromadvertisingandjudiciousexpenditure,thanAix—
  les—Bains,whichtwentyyearsagowasbutatinymountainvillage,andto—dayranksamongthewealthiestandmostbrilliantEAUXinEurope。Inthiscase,itistrue,theyhadtraditiontofallbackon,forAquaeGratinaewasalreadyafavoritewatering—placeintheyear30B。C。,whenCaesartookthecure。
  ThereislittledoubtinmymindthatwhentheRomanEmperorfirstarrivedhefoundacolonyofspinstersandretiredarmyofficers(fromrecentlyconqueredBritain)livingaroundthisspringinPOPINAE(whicharesupposedtohavecorrespondedtoourmodernboarding—house),wearingwaterprooftogasandcommon—sensecothurni,withdoublecorksoles。
  ThewifeofanotherCaesarfledhitherin1814。Thelittleinnwhereshepassedasummerinthecompanyofherone—eyedlover—whilethefateofherhusbandandsonwasbeingdecidedatViennaandWaterloo—isstillstanding,andservesastheannexofavastnewhotel。
  Thewayinwhichawatering—placeis"run"abroad,wheretouristsareregardedasgodsends,tobecherished,spoiled,anddespoiled,isamusinglydifferentfromthemannerofourvillagepopulationswhensummervisitors(whomtheylookuponasnaturalenemies)appearonthescene。Abroadtheentiretown,togetherwiththesurroundingvillages,hamlets,andfarmhouses,racktheirbrainsanddevotetheirtimetoinventingnewamusementsforthevisitor,andoriginalwaysofenticingthegoldfromhispocket—for,mindyou,onbothcontinentstheobjectisthesame。InEuropetheruralMachiavellishavehadtimetolearnthatsmilingfacesandpicturesquesurroundingsarehalfthebattle。
  Anotherpointwhichisperfectlyunderstoodabroadisthatacuremustbelargelymental;thatinconsequenceboredomretardsrecovery。Soduringeveryhourofthedayandeveningadifferentamusementisprovidedforthosewhofeelinclinedtobeamused。AtAix,forinstance,Colonne’sorchestraplaysunderthetreesattheVilladesFleurswhileyouaresippingyourafter—luncheoncoffee。Atthreeo’clock"Guignol"
  performsfortheyoungsters。Atfiveo’clockthereisanotherconcertintheCasino。Ateighto’clockanoperettaisgivenatthevilla,andacomedyintheCasino,bothendingdiscreetlyateleveno’clock。Onceaweek,asavariety,theparkisilluminatedandfireworkshelptopasstheevening。
  IfneithermusicnorGuignoltemptsyou,everyformoftrapfromafour—horsebreaktoadonkey—chair(thelattermuchinfashionsincetheEnglishqueen’svisit)isstandingreadyinthelittlesquare。Ontheneighboringlakeyouhavebuttochoosebetweenadozenkindsofboats。Thehireofallthesemodesofconveyancebeingfixedbythemunicipality,andplainlyprintedinboatorcarriage,extortionsordiscussionsareimpossible。Ifyoupreferarambleamongthehills,thewilynativeislyinginwaitforyoutherealso。Whenyouarrivebreathlessatyourjourney’send,ashadyarboroffersshelterwhereyoumaycooloffandenjoytheview。Itisnotbyaccidentthatadishoffreshlygatheredstrawberriesandabowlofmilkhappentobestandingnearby。
  Whenbicyclingaroundthelakeyoubegintofeelhowniceahalfhour’srestwouldbe。Presto!aterraceoverhangingthewaterappears,andafarmer’swifewhoproposesbrewingyouacupoftea,supplementingitwithbutterandbreadofherownmaking。Weakhumannaturecannotwithstandsuchblandishments。Youfindyourselfbecomingfondofthepeopleandtheirsmilingways,returningagainandagaintoshoreswhereyouaremadesowelcome。Thefactthat"business"isatthebottomofallthisinnowayinterfereswithone’senjoyment。Onthecontrary,toapracticalminditisrefreshingtoseehowmuchcanbemadeofalittle,andwhatafundofprofitandpleasurecanbeextractedfromsmallthings,ifonegoestoworkintherightway。
  Thetrickcandoubtlessbeoverdone:atmomentsonefeelsthelittlegameisworkedabittooopenly。Theotherevening,forinstance,whenweenteredthedining—roomofourhotelandfounditdecoratedwithflagsandflowers,because,forsooth,itwasthebirthdayof"VictoriaR。andI。,"whenchampagnewasofferedatdessertandthebandplayed"GodSavetheQueen,"whiletheEnglishsolemnlystoodupintheirplaces,itdidseemasiftheproprietorwaspokingfunathisguestsinaslyway。
  Iwasapparentlytheonlyperson,however,whofeltthis。TheEnglishweremuchflatteredbytheattention,soIsnubbedmyselfwiththereflectionthatifthedatehadbeenJuly4,I
  doubtlessshouldhaveconsideredtheflagsandmusicmostA
  PROPOS。
  Therearealsomomentswhenthevividpicturesquenessofthisplacecomesneartopallingonone。Itsbeautyissosuspiciouslylikeasetscenethatitgivestheimpressionofhavingbeenarrangedbysomecleverdecoratorwithaneyetoeffectonly。
  OneiscontinuallyremindedofthatinimitablechapterinDaudet’sTARTARINSURLESALPES,whentheherodiscoversthatallSwitzerlandisoneenormoushumbug,runtoattracttourists;thatthecataractsare"faked,"andavalanchesarrangedbeforehandtoenlivenadullseason。CananythingbemoredeliciousthanthedisillusionofTartarinandhisfriends,justbackfromaperilouschamoishunt,ondiscoveringthattheanimaltheyhadexhaustedthemselvesinfollowingalldayacrossthemountains,wasbeingrefreshedwithhotwineinthekitchenofthehotelbyitspeasantowner?
  WhenonevisitsthetheatricalabbeyacrossthelakeandinspectsthetoopicturesquetombsofSavoy’ssovereigns,orwalksinthewonderfuloldgarden,withitsintermittentspring,thesuspicionoccurs,inspiteofone’sself,thatthewholescenewillbefoldedupatsunsetandthebare—footed"brother"whoisshowingusaroundwithsomuchunctionwill,afterourdeparture,hurryintoanothercostume,andappearlaterasoneofthehappypeasantswhoaresinginganddrinkinginfrontofthatabsurdlyoperaticlittleinnyoupassonthedrivehome。
  Thereisacertainpinkcottage,withathatchedroofandoverhangingvines,aboutwhichIhaveseriousdoubts,andfullyexpectsomedaytoseeColumbineappearonthatpistache—greenbalcony(wherethemagpieishanginginawickercage),and,takingArlequin’shand,disappearintothewater—buttwhileClowndoesaheaderoverthehalf—door,andthecottageitselfturnsintoagildedcoach,withColumbinekissingherhandfromthewindow。
  Aproblemwhichourintelligentpeoplehavenotyetsetthemselvestosolve,isbeingworkedoutabroad。ThelittlecitiesofEuropehavediscoveredthatprosperitycomeswiththetourist,thatwithincreasedfacilitiesofcommunicationthetownshipwhichexpendsthemostinmoneyandbrainsinattractingrichtravellerstoitsgatesistheplacethatwillgrowandprosper。Itisasimplelesson,andonethatIwouldgladlyseeourAmericanwatering—placeslearnandapply。
  Chapter24—TheBetterPartASIwatch,yearafteryear,theflowersofouraristocratichothousesbloomingbehindtheglasspartitionsoftheirconservatories,tendedalwaysbythesamegardeners,admiredbythesameamateurs,andthen,forthemostpart,witheringunpluckedontheirvirginstems,Iwonderifthewildflowersappreciatethegoodluckthatallowsthemtotastethestormandthesunshineuntrammelledanddisperseperfumeaccordingtotheirownsweetwill。
  Todropacumbersomemetaphor,thereisnottheshadowofadoubtthatthetamestandmostmonotonouslivesinthiscountryarethoseledbythewomeninour"exclusive"sets,forthegoodreasonthattheyaresurroundedbyallthetrammelsofEuropeansocietywithoutenjoyinganyofitsbenefits,andliveinanatmospherethattakesthetasteoutofexistencetoosoon。
  Girlsabroadarekeptawayfromthe"world"becausetheirsociallifeonlycommencesaftermarriage。InAmerica,onthecontrary,awomanislaidmoreorlessontheshelfthedayshebecomesawife,sothatifshehasnotmadehaywhilehermaidensunshinelasted,thechancesareshewillhavebutmeagrelyfurnishedlofts;andhow,Iask,isagirltoharvestalwaysinthesamefield?
  Wheninthiscountry,aproperlybroughtupyoungaristocratispresentedbyhermammatoanadmiringcircleoffriends,sheisquiteaBLASEEperson。Thedancingclassesshehasattendedforacoupleofyearsbeforeherdebut(thatshemightknowtherightsetofyouthsandmaidens)havetakenthebloomoffherentranceintotheworld。Sheandherfriendshavealreadytalkedoverthe"men"oftheircircle,anddecided,withasigh,thattherewerematchesgoingabout。A
  juvenileNewporterwasrecentlyoverhearddeploring(toafriendoffifteensummers),"Bythetimewecomeouttherewillonlybetwomatchesinthemarket,"meaning,ofcourse,millionnaireswhocouldprovidetheirbrideswithcountryandcityhomes,yachts,andtheotherappurtenancesofabrilliantposition。Now,theunfortunatepartoftheaffairis,thatsuchaworldly—mindedmaidenwillingoodtimebeobligedtomakeherdebut,dine,anddancethroughadozenseasonswithoutmakinganewacquaintance。Hermigrationsfromtowntoseashore,orfromonecountryhousetoanother,willbebutchangesofscene:theactorswillremainalwaysthesame。
  Whenshedinesout,shecan,ifshecarestotakethetrouble,makeafairguessastowhotheguestswillbebeforeshestarts,foreachentertainmentisbutanewshuffleofthetoowell—knownpack。Sheismorallycertainofbeingtakenintodinnerbyoneoffiftymenwhomshehasknownsinceherchildhood,andhasmetonanaveragetwiceaweeksinceshewaseighteen。
  Offoreignerssuchagirlseeslittlebeyondastraydiplomatistortwo,insearchofafortune,andherglimpsesofParissocietyareobtainedfromthewindowsofahotelonthePlaceVendome。InLondonorRomeshemaybepresentedinafewinternationalsalons,butasshefindsitdifficulttomakehernewacquaintancesunderstandwhatanexaltedpositionsheoccupiesathome,thechancesarethatpiqueatseeingsomeDaisyMillerattractalltheattentionwilldrivemyladybacktothecitywheresheisknownandappreciated,nothingbeingmoredifficultforanAmerican"swell"thanexplainingtotheuninitiatedinwhatwayherpositiondiffersfromthatoftherestofhercompatriots。
  WhenIseethebeviesofhighlyeducatedandattractivegirlswhomaketheirbowseachseason,Iaskmyselfinwonder,"Who,inthenameofgoodness,aretheytomarry?"
  Intheverycirclewheresomuchstressislaidonagirl’sestablishingherselfbrilliantly,thefewestpossiblehusbandsaretobefound。Yet,limitedassuchagirl’schoiceis,shewillsoonerremainsinglethanacceptahusbandoutofherset。Shehasaperfectlydistinctideaofwhatshewants,andhaslivedsolongintheatmosphereofwealththatexistencewithoutfootmenandmalecooks,horsesandFrenchclothes,appearstoherimpossible。Suchlargeproportionsdothesedetailsassumeinhermindthateachyearthehusbandhimselfbecomesoflessimportance,andwhathecanprovidetheessentialpoint。
  Ifanoutsiderissufficientlyrich,myladymayconsenttouniteherdestiniestohis,hopingtogethimabsorbedintoherownworld。
  Itispathetic,consideringtherestrictednumberofeligiblemengoingabout,toseethetroubleandexpensethatparentstaketokeeptheirdaughtersENEVIDENCE。Whenonereflectsonthenumberofpeoplewhoaredisturbedwhensuchagirldinesout,thehorsesandmenandwomenwhoarekeptuptoconveyherhome,thetimeithastakenhertodress,thecostofthetoiletitself,andthenseethemantowhomshewillbeconsignedfortheevening,—someboredmanabouttownwhohasprobablytakenhermotherintodinnertwentyyearsbefore,andwillnottroublehimselftotalkwithhisneighbor,oraschoolboy,breakinginhisfirstdresssuit,—whenonerealizesthatformanymaidensthisgoesonnightafternightandseasonafterseason,itseemsincrediblethattheyshouldhavethecourage,orthinkitworththeirwhiletokeepupthegame。
  Thelogicalresultofturningeternallyinthesamecircleisthatninetimesoutoftenthemenwhomarrychoosegirlsoutoftheirownset,someprettystrangerwhohasburstontheirjadedvisionwithallthecharmoftheunknown。A
  conventionalsocietymaidenwhohasnotbeenfortunateenoughtomeetandmarryamansheloves,orwhosefortunetemptsher,duringthefirstseasonortwothatsheis"out,"willinallprobabilitygoonrevolvinginanever—narrowingcircleuntilshebecomesstationaryinitscentre。
  Incomparisonwithsuchanexistencethelifeoftheaverage"summergirl"isonelongfrolic,asvariedasthatofheraristocraticsisterismonotonous。Eachspringshehastheexcitementofselectinganewbattle—groundforhermanoeuvres,forinthecircleinwhichshemoves,parentsleavesuchdetailstotheirchildren。Onceinstalledinthehotelofherchoice,mademoiselleproceedstomaketheacquaintanceofanentirelynewsetoffriends,delightfulyouthsjustarrived,andbentonmakingthemostoftheirbriefholidays,withwhomhercodeofetiquetteallowshertosailallday,andpassuncountedeveninghoursinremotecornersofpiazzaorbeach。
  Asthewords"position"and"set"havenomeaningtoheryoungears,andnoonehaseverpreachedtohertheimportanceofimprovinghersocialstanding,theacquaintancesthatchancethrowsinherpathareacceptedwithoutquestioniftheyhappentobegood—lookingandamusing。Shehasnoprejudiceastostanding,andifhersupplyofpartnersrunsshort,shewilldanceandflirtwiththeclerkfromthedeskinperfectgoodhumor—infact,shestandsratherinaweofthatfunctionary,andadmiresthe"English"cutofhisclothesandhisEasternswagger。Alargehotelisherdreamofluxury,andacoupleofsimultaneousflirtationsheridealofbliss。
  Nolongeveningsofcruelboredom,inordertobeseenatsmarthouses,willcloudthemaiden’scareer,noagonizedanticipationofretiringpartnerlessfromcotillionorsupperwilldisturbherpleasure。
  Inthecityshehailsfrom,everybodysheknowslivesinaboutthesamestyle。Somearesaidtobewealthierthanothers,butnothingintheirwayoflifebetraysthefact;theartofknowinghowtoenjoywealthbeingbutlittleunderstoodoutsideofouroneortwogreatcities。Shehasthattranquilsenseofbeingthesocialequalofthepeopleshemeets,theabsenceofwhichmakesthesnob’slifeaburden。
  Duringhersummersawayfromhomeour"youngfriend"willmeetothergirlsofherage,andformfriendshipsthatresultinmutualvisitingduringtheensuingwinter,whenshewillcontinuetoaddmorenewnamestothelonglistofheradmirers,untilonefinemorningshewriteshometoherdelightedparentsthatshehasfoundtherightmanatlast,andengagedherselftohim。
  Neverhavingpenetratedtothosesacredcentreswherebirthandwealthareconsideredall—important,andignoringthesupremeimportanceoflivinginoneset,theplanoflifethatsuchawomanlaysoutforherselfisexceedinglysimple。ShewillcoquetteanddanceanddreamherpleasantdreamuntilPrinceCharming,whoistoawakenhertoanewlife,comesandkissesawaythedewofgirlhoodandleadshisbrideoutintothework—a—dayworld。Thesimplesurroundingsandambitionsofheryouthwillmakeiteasyforthiswifetofollowthemanofherchoice,ifnecessary,totheremotevillagewhereheisdirectingafactoryortotheminingcampwherethefoundationsofafortunelie。Lifeisfullofdeliciouspossibilitiesforher。Menwhoareforcedtomaketheirwayinyouthoftenturnouttobethosewhomake"history"later,andabridewhohasnotbecomeprematurelyBLASEEtoalltheluxuriesorpleasuresofexistencewillknowthegreatesthappinessthatcancomeintoawoman’slife,thatofrisingatherhusband’sside,stepbystep,enjoyinghistriumphsasshesharedhispoverty。
  Chapter25—LaComedieFrancaiseaOrangeIDLINGupthroughthesouthofFrance,incompanywithapassionateloverofthatfairland,welearnedonarrivingatLyons,thattheactorsoftheComedieFrancaiseweretopassthroughtherethenextday,ENROUTEforOrange,whereaseriesoffeteshadbeenarrangedby"LesFelibres。"Thissociety,composedofthewritersandpoetsofProvence,havethepreservationoftheRomantheatreatOrange(perhapsthemostperfectspecimenofclassicaltheatricalarchitectureinexistence)profoundlyatheart,theirhopebeingtorestoresomeofitspristinebeautytotheruin,andgivefromtimetotimeperformancesoftheGreekmasterpiecesonitsdisusedstage。
  Themoneyobtainedbytheserepresentationswillbespentintherestorationofthetheatre,anditisexpectedintimetomakeOrangethecentreofclassicdrama,asBeyreuthisthatofWagnerianmusic。
  AtLyons,theCORTEGEwastoleavetheParistrainandtakeboatsdowntheRhone,totheirdestination。Theirprogrammewassotemptingthattheofferofplacesinoneofthecraftwasenoughtolureusawayfromourprearrangedroute。
  Byeighto’clockthefollowingmorning,wewereonfoot,aswasapparentlytheentirecity。AcannonfiredfromFortLamothegavethesignalofourstart。Theriver,coveredwithathousandgaylydecoratedcraft,glintedandglitteredinthemorninglight。Itworldbedifficulttoforgetthatscene,—
  thebanksoftheRhonewerelinedwiththeruralpopulation,whohadcomemilesineverydirectiontoacclaimthepassageoftheirpoets。
  Everywherealongourroutethehousesweregaylydecoratedandarchesofflowershadbeenerected。WefloatpastVienne,acityoncegovernedbyPontiusPilate,andTournon,withitsfeudalchateau,blueinthedistance,thenSaintPeray,onaverdantvine—cladslope。AswepassunderthebridgeatMontelimar,anavalancheofflowersdescendsonusfromabove。
  TherapidcurrentoftheriversoonbringsourflotillaoppositeVivier,whoseGothiccathedralbathesitsfeetintheRhone。SaintEspritanditsantiquebridgeappearnextonthehorizon。TraditionassertsthattheHolySpirit,disguisedasastonemason,directeditsconstruction;therewerethirteenworkmeneachday,butatsunset,whenthemengatheredtobepaid,buttwelvecouldbecounted。
  Herethemayorandthemunicipalcouncilweretohavereceivedusanddeliveredanaddress,butwerenotonhand。WecouldseethetardyCORTEGEhasteningtowardsthebridgeasweshotawaydownstream。
  OnnearingOrange,thebanksandquaysoftheriverarealivewithpeople。Thehighroad,parallelwiththestream,isalivewithamany—coloredthrong。OnallsidesonehearsthelanguageofMistral,andrecognizesthemusicofMireillesungbythesepilgrimstoanartisticMecca,whereamiracleistobeperformed—andclassicartcalledforthfromitswinding—
  sheet。
  ThepopulationofawholeregionisastirundertheardentProvencalsun,towitnessaresurrectionoftheDramainthehistoricvalleyoftheRhone,throughwhosechannelthecivilizationandartandcultureoftheoldworldfloatedupintoEuropetotheceaselesscryoftheCIGALES。
  Chateaurenard!ourwaterjourneyisended。ThroughtheleafyavenuesthatleadtoOrange,weseethearchofMariusandthegiganticprosceniumofthetheatre,risingabovetheroofsofthelittlecity。
  SofewofourcompatriotslingerinthesouthofFranceafterthespringhassetin,orwanderintheby—waysofthatinexhaustiblecountry,thatawordabouttherepresentationsatOrangemaybeofinterest,andperchancecreateadesiretoseethemasterpiecesofclassicdrama(thecommoninheritanceofallcivilizedraces)revivedwithus,andourstageputtoitslegitimateuse,cultivatingandelevatingthetasteofthepeople。
  OnewouldsogladlyseealittleofthemoneythatisgenerouslygivenformusicusedtoreviveinAmericaalovefortheclassicdrama。
  Wearecertainlynotinferiortoourneighborsincultureorappreciation,andyetsuchaperformanceasIwitnessedatOrange(layingasidetheenchantmentlentbythesurroundings)
  wouldnotbepossiblehere。Why?Buttoreturntomynarrative。
  Thesunissettingaswetoil,ticketinhand,uptheRomanstairwaytotheupperrowsofseats;farbelowthelocalGENDARMERIEwhomostlyunderstandtheirordersbackwardsarestrugglingwiththethrong,whoseentrancetheyareapparentlyobstructingbyeverymeansintheirpower。Onceseated,andhavingawaitofanhourbeforeus,weamusedourselveswatchingthecrowdfillingineverycornerofthevastbuilding,likearisingtideofmulti—coloredwater。
  Wehadpurposelychosenplacesonthehighestandmostremotebenches,totestthevauntedacousticqualitiesoftheauditorium,andtoobtainaviewofthehalf—circleofhumanity,thegiganticwallbackofthestage,andthesurroundingcountry。
  Asdaysoftenedintotwilight,andtwilightdeepenedintoaluminousSouthernnight;theeffectwasincomparable。ThebelfriesandroofsofmediaevalOrangeroseintheclearair,overtoppingthehalfruinedtheatreinmanyplaces。ThearchofMariusgleamedwhiteagainstthesurroundinghills,themselvesvioletandpurpleinthesunset,theirshadowbrokenhereandtherebytheoutlineofacrumblingchateauorthelightsofavillage。
  Behindusthesentriespacedalongthewall,wrappedintheirdarkcloaks;andoverallthescene,onesnowtoppedpeakrosewhiteonthehorizon,likesomeclassicvirginassistingatanOlympiansolemnity。
  Onthestage,partlyclearedofthedebrisoffifteenhundredyears,treeshadbeenleftwheretheyhadgrown,amongfallencolumns,fragmentsofcapitalandstatue;nearthefrontasuperbrose—laurelrecalledtheAtticshores。Totheright,wildgrassesandherbsalternatedwiththickshrubbery,amongwhichOresteshidlater,duringthelamentationsofhissister。Totheleftagiganticfig—tree,growingagainthedarkwall,threwitsbranchesfaroutoverthestage。
  Itwasfrombehinditsfoliagethat"Gaul,""Provence,"and"France,"personatedbythreeactressesofthe"Francais,"
  advancedtosaluteApollo,seatedonhisrusticthrone,intheprologuewhichbegantheperformance。
  Sincemiddaytheweatherhadbeenthreatening。Atseveno’clocktherewasalmostashower—amomentofterribleanxiety。Whatamisfortuneifitshouldrain,justastheactorsweretoappear,here,whereithadnotrainedfornearlyfourmonths!Myright—handneighbor,acitizenofBeaucaire,assuresme,"Itwillbenothing,onlyastrong`mistral’forto—morrow。"Anelectricianisputtingthefinishingtouchestohisarrangements。Hetriesvainlytoconcentratesomelightontheboxwherethecommitteeistosit,whichisscreenedbyabitofcrumblingwall,butfinallygivesitup。
  Suddenlythebuglessound;theorchestraringsouttheMarseillaise;itiseighto’clock。Theskyiswildandthreatening。Anunseenhandstrikesthethreetraditionalblows。TheFaunLybrianslipsdownfromabranchofagreatelm,andthrowshimselfonthestepsthatlateraretorepresenttheentrancetothepalaceofAgamemnon,andcommencestheprologue(aninvocationtoApollo),inthemidstofsuchconfusionthatwehearhardlyaword。Littlebylittle,however,thecrowdquietsdown,andIcatchLouisGallet’sfinelines,marvellouslyphrasedbyMesdamesBartet,Dudlay,Moreno,andthehandsomeFenouxasApollo。
  Therealinterestofthepublicisonlyaroused,however,whenTHEERYNNIESbegins。ThispowerfuladaptationfromthetragedyofAEschylusisTHECHEFD’OEUVREofLecontedeLisle。
  Thesilenceisnowcomplete。Onefeelsintheairthatthemomentsolongandsoanxiouslyawaitedhascome,thatagreateventisabouttotakeplace。Everyeyeisfixedonthestage,waitingtoseewhatwillappearfrombehindthedarkarchesoftheproscenium。Afaint,plaintivestrainofmusicfloatsoutonthesilence。Demonscrawlamongtheleafyshadows。Notalightisvisible,yetthecentreofthestageisinstrongrelief,shadingoffintoathousandfantasticshadows。Theaudiencesitsincompletedarkness。ThenweseethepeopleofArgos,windingtowardusfromamongthetrees,lamenting,astheyhavedoneeachdayfortenyears,thelongabsenceoftheirsonsandtheirking。Theoldmennolongerdaretoconsulttheoracles,fearingtolearnthatallislost。Thebeautyofthislamentrousedthefirstmurmurofapplause,eachword,eachsyllable,chimingoutacrossthatvastsemicirclewithaclearnessandaneffectimpossibletodescribe。
  Nowitisthesentinel,whofromhiswatch—towerhascaughtthefirstglimpseofthereturningarmy。Wehearhimdashinglikeatorrentdowntheturretstair;atthedoorway,hisgarmentsblownbythewind,hisbodybendingforwardinasplendidposeofjoyandexultation,heannouncesinavoiceofthunderthearrivaloftheking。
  Socompletelyarethetwentythousandspectatorsunderthespellofthedramathatatthisnewsonecanfeelathrillpassoverthethrong,whomthesplendidversesholdpalpitatingundertheircharm,awaitingonlytheendofthetiradetobreakintoapplause。
  Fromthatmomenttheperformanceisonelongtriumph。
  Clytemnestra(MadameLerou)comeswithhersuitetoreceivetheking(Mounet—Sully),theconqueror!Ineverrealizedbeforealltheperfectionthattrainingcangivethespeakingvoice。Eachsyllableseemedtoringoutwithabell—likeclearness。AsshegraduallyroseinthelastacttothescenewithOrestes,Iunderstoodtheuseofthegreatwallbehindtheactors。Itincreasedthepowerofthevoicesandlentthemasonoritydifficulttobelieve。Theeffectwasoverwhelmingwhen,unabletoescapedeath,Clytemnestracriesoutherhorribleimprecations。
  Mounet—Sullysurpassedhimself。PaulMounetgaveusthecompleteillusionofamonsterthirstingforblood,evenhismother’s!Whenstrikingherasshestruckhisfather,heanswersherdespairingquery,"Thouwouldstnotslaythymother?""Woman,thouhastceasedtobeamother!"Dudlay(asCassandra)reachesasplendidclimaxwhensheprophesiesthemisfortunehangingoverherfamily,whichsheispowerlesstoavert。