ChapterIFirstVisittoEnglandIhavebeentwiceinEngland。In1833，onmyreturnfromashorttourinSicily，Italy，andFrance，IcrossedfromBoulogne，andlandedinLondonattheTowerstairs。ItwasadarkSundaymorning；
therewerefewpeopleinthestreets；andIrememberthepleasureofthatfirstwalkonEnglishground，withmycompanion，anAmericanartist，fromtheTowerupthroughCheapsideandtheStrand，toahouseinRussellSquare，whitherwehadbeenrecommendedtogoodchambers。Forthefirsttimeformanymonthswewereforcedtocheckthesaucyhabitoftravellers’criticism，aswecouldnolongerspeakaloudinthestreetswithoutbeingunderstood。Theshop—signsspokeourlanguage；ourcountrynameswereonthedoor—plates；andthepublicandprivatebuildingsworeamorenativeandwontedfront。
Likemostyoungmenatthattime，IwasmuchindebtedtothemenofEdinburgh，andoftheEdinburghReview，——toJeffrey，Mackintosh，Hallam，andtoScott，Playfair，andDeQuincey；andmynarrowanddesultoryreadinghadinspiredthewishtoseethefacesofthreeorfourwriters，——Coleridge，Wordsworth，Landor，DeQuincey，andthelatestandstrongestcontributortothecriticaljournals，Carlyle；andIsupposeifIhadsiftedthereasonsthatledmetoEurope，whenIwasillandwasadvisedtotravel，itwasmainlytheattractionofthesepersons。IfGoethehadbeenstillliving，I
mighthavewanderedintoGermanyalso。BesidesthoseIhavenamed，（forScottwasdead，）therewasnotinBritainthemanlivingwhomI
caredtobehold，unlessitweretheDukeofWellington，whomI
afterwardssawatWestminsterAbbey，atthefuneralofWilberforce。
Theyoungscholarfanciesithappinessenoughtolivewithpeoplewhocangiveaninsidetotheworld；withoutreflectingthattheyareprisoners，too，oftheirownthought，andcannotapplythemselvestoyours。Theconditionsofliterarysuccessarealmostdestructiveofthebestsocialpower，astheydonotleavethatfroliclibertywhichonlycanencounteracompaniononthebestterms。Itisprobableyouleftsomeobscurecomradeatatavern，orinthefarms，withrightmother—wit，andequalitytolife，whenyoucrossedseaandlandtoplaybo—peepwithcelebratedscribes。Ihave，however，foundwriterssuperiortotheirbooks，andIclingtomyfirstbelief，thatastrongheadwilldisposefastenoughoftheseimpediments，andgiveonethesatisfactionofreality，thesenseofhavingbeenmet，andalargerhorizon。
Onlookingoverthediaryofmyjourneyin1833，Ifindnothingtopublishinmymemorandaofvisitstoplaces。ButIhavecopiedthefewnotesImadeofvisitstopersons，astheyrespectpartiesquitetoogoodandtootransparenttothewholeworldtomakeitneedfultoaffectanypruderyofsuppressionaboutafewhintsofthosebrightpersonalities。
AtFlorence，chiefamongartistsIfoundHoratioGreenough，theAmericansculptor。Hisfacewassohandsome，andhispersonsowellformed，thathemightbepardoned，if，aswasalleged，thefaceofhisMedora，andthefigureofacolossalAchillesinclay，wereidealizationsofhisown。Greenoughwasasuperiorman，ardentandeloquent，andallhisopinionshadelevationandmagnanimity。HebelievedthattheGreekshadwroughtinschoolsorfraternities，——
thegeniusofthemasterimpartinghisdesigntohisfriends，andinflamingthemwithit，andwhenhisstrengthwasspent，anewhand，withequalheat，continuedthework；andsobyrelays，untilitwasfinishedineverypartwithequalfire。Thiswasnecessaryinsorefractoryamaterialasstone；andhethoughtartwouldneverprosperuntilweleftourshyjealousways，andworkedinsocietyasthey。Allhisthoughtsbreathedthesamegenerosity。Hewasanaccurateandadeepman。HewasavotaryoftheGreeks，andimpatientofGothicart。HispaperonArchitecture，publishedin1843，announcedinadvancetheleadingthoughtsofMr。Ruskinonthe_morality_inarchitecture，notwithstandingtheantagonismintheirviewsofthehistoryofart。Ihaveaprivateletterfromhim，——
later，butrespectingthesameperiod，——inwhichheroughlysketcheshisowntheory。"Hereismytheoryofstructure：A
scientificarrangementofspacesandformstofunctionsandtosite；
anemphasisoffeaturesproportionedtotheir_gradated_importanceinfunction；colorandornamenttobedecidedandarrangedandvariedbystrictlyorganiclaws，havingadistinctreasonforeachdecision；
theentireandimmediatebanishmentofallmake—shiftandmake—believe。"
Greenoughbroughtme，throughacommonfriend，aninvitationfromMr。Landor，wholivedatSanDomenicadiFiesole。Onthe15thMayIdinedwithMr。Landor。Ifoundhimnobleandcourteous，livinginacloudofpicturesathisVillaGherardesca，afinehousecommandingabeautifullandscape。Ihadinferredfromhisbooks，ormagnifiedfromsomeanecdotes，animpressionofAchilleanwrath，——
anuntamablepetulance。Idonotknowwhethertheimputationwerejustornot，butcertainlyonthisMaydayhiscourtesyveiledthathaughtymind，andhewasthemostpatientandgentleofhosts。HepraisedthebeautifulcyclamenwhichgrowsallaboutFlorence；headmiredWashington；talkedofWordsworth，Byron，Massinger，BeaumontandFletcher。Tobesure，heisdecidedinhisopinions，likestosurprise，andiswellcontenttoimpress，ifpossible，hisEnglishwhimupontheimmutablepast。Nogreatmaneverhadagreatson，ifPhilipandAlexanderbenotanexception；andPhiliphecallsthegreaterman。Inart，helovestheGreeks，andinsculpture，themonly。HepreferstheVenustoeverythingelse，and，afterthat，theheadofAlexander，inthegalleryhere。HeprefersJohnofBolognatoMichaelAngelo；inpainting，Raffaelle；andsharesthegrowingtasteforPeruginoandtheearlymasters。TheGreekhistorieshethoughttheonlygood；andafterthem，Voltaire’s。IcouldnotmakehimpraiseMackintosh，normymorerecentfriends；Montaigneverycordially，——andCharronalso，whichseemedundiscriminating。HethoughtDegerandoindebtedto"LucasonHappiness"and"LucasonHoliness"！HepesteredmewithSouthey；butwhoisSouthey？
HeinvitedmetobreakfastonFriday。OnFridayIdidnotfailtogo，andthistimewithGreenough。HeentertainedusatoncewithrecitinghalfadozenhexameterlinesofJuliusCaesar’s！——fromDonatus，hesaid。HeglorifiedLordChesterfieldmorethanwasnecessary，andundervaluedBurke，andundervaluedSocrates；
designatedasthreeofthegreatestofmen，Washington，Phocion，andTimoleon；muchasourpomologists，intheirlists，selectthethreeorthesixbestpears"forasmallorchard；"anddidnotevenomittoremarkthesimilarterminationoftheirnames。"Agreatman，"hesaid，"shouldmakegreatsacrifices，andkillhishundredoxen，withoutknowingwhethertheywouldbeconsumedbygodsandheroes，orwhethertheflieswouldeatthem。"IhadvisitedProfessorAmici，whohadshownmehismicroscopes，magnifying（itwassaid）twothousanddiameters；andIspokeoftheusestowhichtheywereapplied。
Landordespisedentomology，yet，inthesamebreath，said，"thesublimewasinagrainofdust。"IsupposeIteasedhimaboutrecentwriters，butheprofessednevertohaveheardofHerschel，_notevenbyname。_Oneroomwasfullofpictures，whichhelikestoshow，especiallyonepiece，standingbeforewhich，hesaid"hewouldgivefiftyguineastothemanthatwouldswearitwasaDomenichino。"I
wasmorecurioustoseehislibrary，butMr。H————，oneoftheguests，toldmethatMr。Landorgivesawayhisbooks，andhasnevermorethanadozenatatimeinhishouse。
Mr。LandorcarriestoitsheighttheloveoffreakwhichtheEnglishdelighttoindulge，asiftosignalizetheircommandingfreedom。Hehasawonderfulbrain，despotic，violent，andinexhaustible，meantforasoldier，bywhatchanceconvertedtoletters，inwhichthereisnotastylenoratintnotknowntohim，yetwithanEnglishappetiteforactionandheroes。Thethingdoneavails，andnotwhatissaidaboutit。Anoriginalsentence，astepforward，isworthmorethanallthecensures。LandorisstrangelyundervaluedinEngland；usuallyignored；andsometimessavagelyattackedintheReviews。Thecriticismmayberight，orwrong，andisquicklyforgotten；butyearafteryearthescholarmuststillgobacktoLandorforamultitudeofelegantsentences——forwisdom，wit，andindignationthatareunforgetable。
FromLondon，onthe5thAugust，IwenttoHighgate，andwroteanotetoMr。Coleridge，requestingleavetopaymyrespectstohim。
Itwasnearnoon。Mr。Coleridgesentaverbalmessage，thathewasinbed，butifIwouldcallafteroneo’clock，hewouldseeme。I
returnedatone，andheappeared，ashort，thickoldman，withbrightblueeyesandfineclearcomplexion，leaningonhiscane。Hetooksnufffreely，whichpresentlysoiledhiscravatandneatblacksuit。
HeaskedwhetherIknewAllston，andspokewarmlyofhismeritsanddoingswhenheknewhiminRome；whatamasteroftheTitianesquehewas，&c。，&c。HespokeofDr。Channing。ItwasanunspeakablemisfortunethatheshouldhaveturnedoutaUnitarianafterall。Onthis，heburstintoadeclamationonthefollyandignoranceofUnitarianism，——itshighunreasonableness；andtakingupBishopWaterland’sbook，whichlayonthetable，hereadwithvehemencetwoorthreepageswrittenbyhimselfinthefly—leaves，——passages，too，which，Ibelieve，areprintedinthe"AidstoReflection。"Whenhestoppedtotakebreath，Iinterposed，that，"whilstIhighlyvaluedallhisexplanations，IwasboundtotellhimthatIwasbornandbredaUnitarian。""Yes，"hesaid，"Isupposedso；"andcontinuedasbefore。`Itwasawonder，thataftersomanyagesofunquestioningacquiescenceinthedoctrineofSt。Paul，——thedoctrineoftheTrinity，whichwasalso，accordingtoPhiloJudaeus，thedoctrineoftheJewsbeforeChrist，——thishandfulofPriestleiansshouldtakeonthemselvestodenyit，&c。，&c。HewasverysorrythatDr。Channing，——amantowhomhelookedup，——no，tosaythathelooked_up_tohimwouldbetospeakfalsely；butamanwhomhelooked_at_withsomuchinterest，——shouldembracesuchviews。WhenhesawDr。Channing，hehadhintedtohimthathewasafraidhelovedChristianityforwhatwaslovelyandexcellent，——helovedthegoodinit，andnotthetrue；andItellyou，sir，thatI
haveknowntenpersonswholovedthegood，foronepersonwholovedthetrue；butitisafargreatervirtuetolovethetrueforitselfalone，thantolovethegoodforitselfalone。He（Coleridge）knewallaboutUnitarianismperfectlywell，becausehehadoncebeenaUnitarian，andknewwhatquackeryitwas。Hehadbeencalled"therisingstarofUnitarianism。"’Hewentondefining，orratherrefining：`TheTrinitariandoctrinewasrealism；theideaofGodwasnotessential，butsuperessential；’talkedof_trinism_and_tetrakism_，andmuchmore，ofwhichIonlycaughtthis，`thatthewillwasthatbywhichapersonisaperson；because，ifoneshouldpushmeinthestreet，andsoIshouldforcethemannextmeintothekennel，Ishouldatonceexclaim，"Ididnotdoit，sir，"meaningitwasnotmywill。’Andthisalso，`thatifyoushouldinsistonyourfaithhereinEngland，andIonmine，minewouldbethehottersideofthefagot。’
Itookadvantageofapausetosay，thathehadmanyreadersofallreligiousopinionsinAmerica，andIproceededtoinquireifthe"extract"fromtheIndependent’spamphlet，inthethirdvolumeoftheFriend，wereaveritablequotation。Hereplied，thatitwasreallytakenfromapamphletinhispossession，entitled"AProtestofoneoftheIndependents，"orsomethingtothateffect。ItoldhimhowexcellentIthoughtit，andhowmuchIwishedtoseetheentirework。
"Yes，"hesaid，"themanwasachaosoftruths，butlackedtheknowledgethatGodwasaGodoforder。Yetthepassagewouldnodoubtstrikeyoumoreinthequotationthanintheoriginal，forI
havefilteredit。"
WhenIrosetogo，hesaid，"Idonotknowwhetheryoucareaboutpoetry，butIwillrepeatsomeversesIlatelymadeonmybaptismalanniversary，"andherecitedwithstrongemphasis，standing，tenortwelvelines，beginning，"BornuntoGodinChrist————"
HeinquiredwhereIhadbeentravelling；andonlearningthatI
hadbeeninMaltaandSicily，hecomparedoneislandwiththeother，`repeatingwhathehadsaidtotheBishopofLondonwhenhereturnedfromthatcountry，thatSicilywasanexcellentschoolofpoliticaleconomy；for，inanytownthere，itonlyneededtoaskwhatthegovernmentenacted，andreversethattoknowwhatoughttobedone；
itwasthemostfelicitouslyoppositelegislationtoanythinggoodandwise。Therewereonlythreethingswhichthegovernmenthadbroughtintothatgardenofdelights，namely，itch，pox，andfamine。
Whereas，inMalta，theforceoflawandmindwasseen，inmakingthatbarrenrockofsemi—Saraceninhabitantstheseatofpopulationandplenty。’Goingout，heshowedmeinthenextapartmentapictureofAllston’s，andtoldme`thatMontague，apicture—dealer，oncecametoseehim，and，glancingtowardsthis，said，"Well，youhavegotapicture！"thinkingittheworkofanoldmaster；afterwards，Montague，stilltalkingwithhisbacktothecanvas，putuphishandandtouchedit，andexclaimed，"ByHeaven！thispictureisnottenyearsold："——sodelicateandskilfulwasthatman’stouch。’
Iwasinhiscompanyforaboutanhour，butfinditimpossibletorecallthelargestpartofhisdiscourse，whichwasoftenlikesomanyprintedparagraphsinhisbook，——perhapsthesame，——soreadilydidhefallintocertaincommonplaces。AsImighthaveforeseen，thevisitwasratheraspectaclethanaconversation，ofnousebeyondthesatisfactionofmycuriosity。Hewasoldandpreoccupied，andcouldnotbendtoanewcompanionandthinkwithhim。
FromEdinburghIwenttotheHighlands。Onmyreturn，IcamefromGlasgowtoDumfries，andbeingintentondeliveringaletterwhichIhadbroughtfromRome，inquiredforCraigenputtock。ItwasafarminNithsdale，intheparishofDunscore，sixteenmilesdistant。
Nopubliccoachpassednearit，soItookaprivatecarriagefromtheinn。Ifoundthehouseamiddesolateheatheryhills，wherethelonelyscholarnourishedhismightyheart。Carlylewasamanfromhisyouth，anauthorwhodidnotneedtohidefromhisreaders，andasabsoluteamanoftheworld，unknownandexiledonthathill—farm，asifholdingonhisowntermswhatisbestinLondon。Hewastallandgaunt，withacliff—likebrow，self—possessed，andholdinghisextraordinarypowersofconversationineasycommand；clingingtohisnorthernaccentwithevidentrelish；fulloflivelyanecdote，andwithastreaminghumor，whichfloatedeverythinghelookedupon。
Histalkplayfullyexaltingthefamiliarobjects，putthecompanionatonceintoanacquaintancewithhisLarsandLemurs，anditwasverypleasanttolearnwhatwaspredestinedtobeaprettymythology。
Fewweretheobjectsandlonelytheman，"notapersontospeaktowithinsixteenmilesexcepttheministerofDunscore；"sothatbooksinevitablymadehistopics。
Hehadnamesofhisownforallthemattersfamiliartohisdiscourse。"Blackwood’s"wasthe"sandmagazine；""Fraser’s"nearerapproachtopossibilityoflifewasthe"mudmagazine；"apieceofroadnearbythatmarkedsomefailedenterprisewasthe"graveofthelastsixpence。"Whentoomuchpraiseofanygeniusannoyedhim，heprofessedhugelytoadmirethetalentshownbyhispig。Hehadspentmuchtimeandcontrivanceinconfiningthepoorbeasttooneenclosureinhispen，butpig，bygreatstrokesofjudgment，hadfoundouthowtoletaboarddown，andhadfoiledhim。Forallthat，hestillthoughtmanthemostplasticlittlefellowintheplanet，andhelikedNero’sdeath，_"Qualisartifexpereo！"_betterthanmosthistory。Heworshipsamanthatwillmanifestanytruthtohim。AtonetimehehadinquiredandreadagooddealaboutAmerica。
Landor’sprinciplewasmererebellion，and_that_hefearedwastheAmericanprinciple。Thebestthingheknewofthatcountrywas，thatinitamancanhavemeatforhislabor。HehadreadinStewart’sbook，thatwhenheinquiredinaNewYorkhotelfortheBoots，hehadbeenshownacrossthestreetandhadfoundMungoinhisownhousediningonroastturkey。
Wetalkedofbooks。Platohedoesnotread，andhedisparagedSocrates；and，whenpressed，persistedinmakingMirabeauahero。
Gibbonhecalledthesplendidbridgefromtheoldworldtothenew。
Hisownreadinghadbeenmultifarious。TristramShandywasoneofhisfirstbooksafterRobinsonCrusoe，andRobertson’sAmericaanearlyfavorite。Rousseau’sConfessionshaddiscoveredtohimthathewasnotadunce；anditwasnowtenyearssincehehadlearnedGerman，bytheadviceofamanwhotoldhimhewouldfindinthatlanguagewhathewanted。
Hetookdespairingorsatiricalviewsofliteratureatthismoment；recountedtheincrediblesumspaidinoneyearbythegreatbooksellersforpuffing。Henceitcomesthatnonewspaperistrustednow，nobooksarebought，andthebooksellersareontheeveofbankruptcy。
HestillreturnedtoEnglishpauperism，thecrowdedcountry，theselfishabdicationbypublicmenofallthatpublicpersonsshouldperform。`Governmentshoulddirectpoormenwhattodo。PoorIrishfolkcomewanderingoverthesemoors。MydamemakesitaruletogivetoeverysonofAdambreadtoeat，andsupplieshiswantstothenexthouse。Butherearethousandsofacreswhichmightgivethemallmeat，andnobodytobidthesepoorIrishgotothemoorandtillit。Theyburnedthestacks，andsofoundawaytoforcetherichpeopletoattendtothem。’
Wewentouttowalkoverlonghills，andlookedatCriffelthenwithouthiscap，anddownintoWordsworth’scountry。Therewesatdown，andtalkedoftheimmortalityofthesoul。ItwasnotCarlyle’sfaultthatwetalkedonthattopic，forhehadthenaturaldisinclinationofeverynimblespirittobruiseitselfagainstwalls，anddidnotliketoplacehimselfwherenostepcanbetaken。Buthewashonestandtrue，andcognizantofthesubtilelinksthatbindagestogether，andsawhoweveryeventaffectsallthefuture。
`Christdiedonthetree：thatbuiltDunscorekirkyonder：thatbroughtyouandmetogether。Timehasonlyarelativeexistence。’
HewasalreadyturninghiseyestowardsLondonwithascholar’sappreciation。Londonistheheartoftheworld，hesaid，wonderfulonlyfromthemassofhumanbeings。Helikedthehugemachine。Eachkeepsitsownround。Thebaker’sboybringsmuffinstothewindowatafixedhoureveryday，andthatisalltheLondonerknowsorwishestoknowonthesubject。Butitturnedoutgoodmen。Henamedcertainindividuals，especiallyonemanofletters，hisfriend，thebestmindheknew，whomLondonhadwellserved。
Onthe28thAugust，IwenttoRydalMount，topaymyrespectstoMr。Wordsworth。Hisdaughterscalledintheirfather，aplain，elderly，white—hairedman，notprepossessing，anddisfiguredbygreengoggles。Hesatdown，andtalkedwithgreatsimplicity。Hehadjustreturnedfromajourney。Hishealthwasgood，buthehadbrokenatoothbyafall，whenwalkingwithtwolawyers，andhadsaid，thathewasgladitdidnothappenfortyyearsago；whereupontheyhadpraisedhisphilosophy。
HehadmuchtosayofAmerica，themorethatitgaveoccasionforhisfavoritetopic，——thatsocietyisbeingenlightenedbyasuperficialtuition，outofallproportiontoitsbeingrestrainedbymoralculture。Schoolsdonogood。Tuitionisnoteducation。Hethinksmoreoftheeducationofcircumstancesthanoftuition。’Tisnotquestionwhetherthereareoffencesofwhichthelawtakescognizance，butwhetherthereareoffencesofwhichthelawdoesnottakecognizance。Siniswhathefears，andhowsocietyistoescapewithoutgravestmischiefsfromthissource——？Hehasevensaid，whatseemedaparadox，thattheyneededacivilwarinAmerica，toteachthenecessityofknittingthesocialtiesstronger。`Theremaybe，’hesaid，`inAmericasomevulgarityinmanner，butthat’snotimportant。Thatcomesofthepioneerstateofthings。ButIfeartheyaretoomuchgiventothemakingofmoney；andsecondly，topolitics；thattheymakepoliticaldistinctiontheend，andnotthemeans。AndIfeartheylackaclassofmenofleisure，——inshort，ofgentlemen，——togiveatoneofhonortothecommunity。Iamtoldthatthingsareboastedofinthesecondclassofsocietythere，which，inEngland，——Godknows，aredoneinEnglandeveryday，——
butwouldneverbespokenof。InAmericaIwishtoknownothowmanychurchesorschools，butwhatnewspapers？Myfriend，ColonelHamilton，atthefootofthehill，whowasayearinAmerica，assuresmethatthenewspapersareatrocious，andaccusemembersofCongressofstealingspoons！’HewasagainsttakingoffthetaxonnewspapersinEngland，whichthereformersrepresentasataxuponknowledge，forthisreason，thattheywouldbeinundatedwithbaseprints。Hesaid，hetalkedonpoliticalaspects，forhewishedtoimpressonmeandallgoodAmericanstocultivatethemoral，theconservative，&c。，&c。，andnevertocallintoactionthephysicalstrengthofthepeople，ashadjustnowbeendoneinEnglandintheReformBill，——athingprophesiedbyDelolme。HealludedonceortwicetohisconversationwithDr。Channing，whohadrecentlyvisitedhim，（layinghishandonaparticularchairinwhichtheDoctorhadsat。）
Theconversationturnedonbooks。LucretiusheesteemsafarhigherpoetthanVirgil：notinhissystem，whichisnothing，butinhispowerofillustration。Faithisnecessarytoexplainanything，andtoreconciletheforeknowledgeofGodwithhumanevil。OfCousin，（whoselectureswehadallbeenreadinginBoston，）heknewonlythename。
IinquiredifhehadreadCarlyle’scriticalarticlesandtranslations。Hesaid，hethoughthimsometimesinsane。HeproceededtoabuseGoethe’sWilhelmMeisterheartily。Itwasfullofallmanneroffornication。Itwaslikethecrossingoffliesintheair。Hehadnevergonefartherthanthefirstpart；sodisgustedwashethathethrewthebookacrosstheroom。Ideprecatedthiswrath，andsaidwhatIcouldforthebetterpartsofthebook；andhecourteouslypromisedtolookatitagain。Carlyle，hesaid，wrotemostobscurely。Hewascleveranddeep，buthedefiedthesympathiesofeverybody。EvenMr。Coleridgewrotemoreclearly，thoughhehadalwayswishedColeridgewouldwritemoretobeunderstood。Heledmeoutintohisgarden，andshowedmethegravelwalkinwhichthousandsofhislineswerecomposed。Hiseyesaremuchinflamed。Thisisnoloss，exceptforreading，becauseheneverwritesprose，andofpoetryhecarriesevenhundredsoflinesinhisheadbeforewritingthem。HehadjustreturnedfromavisittoStaffa，andwithinthreedayshadmadethreesonnetsonFingal’sCave，andwascomposingafourth，whenhewascalledintoseeme。Hesaid，"Ifyouareinterestedinmyverses，perhapsyouwillliketoheartheselines。"
Igladlyassented；andherecollectedhimselfforafewmoments，andthenstoodforthandrepeated，oneaftertheother，thethreeentiresonnetswithgreatanimation。Ifanciedthesecondandthirdmorebeautifulthanhispoemsarewonttobe。Thethirdisaddressedtotheflowers，which，hesaid，especiallytheoxeyedaisy，areveryabundantonthetopoftherock。Thesecondalludestothenameofthecave，whichis"CaveofMusic；"thefirsttothecircumstanceofitsbeingvisitedbythepromiscuouscompanyofthesteamboat。
Thisrecitationwassounlookedforandsurprising，——he，theoldWordsworth，standingapart，andrecitingtomeinagarden—walk，likeaschoolboydeclaiming，——thatIatfirstwasneartolaugh；
butrecollectingmyself，thatIhadcomethusfartoseeapoet，andhewaschantingpoemstome，IsawthathewasrightandIwaswrong，andgladlygavemyselfuptohear。Itoldhimhowmuchthefewprintedextractshadquickenedthedesiretopossesshisunpublishedpoems。Hereplied，heneverwasinhastetopublish；partly，becausehecorrectedagooddeal，andeveryalterationisungraciouslyreceivedafterprinting；butwhathehadwrittenwouldbeprinted，whetherhelivedordied。Isaid，"TinternAbbey"appearedtobethefavoritepoemwiththepublic，butmorecontemplativereaderspreferredthefirstbooksofthe"Excursion，"andtheSonnets。Hesaid，"Yes，theyarebetter。"Hepreferredsuchofhispoemsastouchedtheaffections，toanyothers；forwhateverisdidactic，——
whattheoriesofsociety，andsoon，——mightperishquickly；butwhatevercombinedatruthwithanaffectionwas{ktemaesaei}，goodto—dayandgoodforever。Hecitedthesonnet"Onthefeelingsofahigh—mindedSpaniard，"whichhepreferredtoanyother，（Isounderstoodhim，）andthe"TwoVoices；"andquoted，withevidentpleasure，theversesaddressed"TotheSkylark。"Inthisconnection，hesaidoftheNewtoniantheory，thatitmightyetbesupersededandforgotten；andDalton’satomictheory。
WhenIpreparedtodepart，hesaidhewishedtoshowmewhatacommonpersoninEnglandcoulddo，andheledmeintotheenclosureofhisclerk，ayoungman，towhomhehadgiventhisslipofground，whichwaslaidout，oritsnaturalcapabilitiesshown，withmuchtaste。Hethensaidhewouldshowmeabetterwaytowardstheinn；
andhewalkedagoodpartofamile，talking，andeverandanonstoppingshorttoimpressthewordortheverse，andfinallypartedfrommewithgreatkindness，andreturnedacrossthefields。
Wordsworthhonoredhimselfbyhissimpleadherencetotruth，andwasverywillingnottoshine；buthesurprisedbythehardlimitsofhisthought。Tojudgefromasingleconversation，hemadetheimpressionofanarrowandveryEnglishmind；ofonewhopaidforhisrareelevationbygeneraltamenessandconformity。Offhisownbeat，hisopinionswereofnovalue。Itisnotveryraretofindpersonslovingsympathyandease，whoexpiatetheirdeparturefromthecommon，inonedirection，bytheirconformityineveryother。
ChapterIIVoyagetoEnglandTheoccasionofmysecondvisittoEnglandwasaninvitationfromsomeMechanics’InstitutesinLancashireandYorkshire，whichseparatelyareorganizedmuchinthesamewayasourNewEnglandLyceums，but，in1847，hadbeenlinkedintoa"Union，"whichembracedtwentyorthirtytownsandcities，andpresentlyextendedintothemiddlecounties，andnorthwardintoScotland。Iwasinvited，onliberalterms，toreadaseriesoflecturesinthemall。Therequestwasurgedwitheverykindsuggestion，andeveryassuranceofaidandcomfort，byfriendliestpartiesinManchester，who，inthesequel，amplyredeemedtheirword。Theremunerationwasequivalenttothefeesatthattimepaidinthiscountryforthelikeservices。Atallevents，itwassufficienttocoveranytravellingexpenses，andtheproposalofferedanexcellentopportunityofseeingtheinteriorofEnglandandScotland，bymeansofahome，andacommitteeofintelligentfriends，awaitingmeineverytown。
Ididnotgoverywillingly。Iamnotagoodtraveller，norhaveIfoundthatlongjourneysyieldafairshareofreasonablehours。Buttheinvitationwasrepeatedandpressedatamomentofmoreleisure，andwhenIwasalittlespentbysomeunusualstudies。
Iwantedachangeandatonic，andEnglandwasproposedtome。
Besides，therewere，atleast，thedreadattractionandsalutaryinfluencesofthesea。SoItookmyberthinthepacket—shipWashingtonIrving，andsailedfromBostononTuesday，5thOctober，1847。
OnFridayatnoon，wehadonlymadeonehundredandthirty—fourmiles。AnimbleIndianwouldhaveswumasfar；butthecaptainaffirmedthattheshipwouldshowusintimeallherpaces，andwecreptalongthroughthefloatingdriftofboards，logs，andchips，whichtheriversofMaineandNewBrunswickpourintotheseaafterafreshet。
Atlast，onSundaynight，afterdoingoneday’sworkinfour，thestormcame，thewindsblew，andweflewbeforeanorth—wester，whichstrainedeveryropeandsail。Thegoodshipdartsthroughthewaterallday，allnight，likeafish，quiveringwithspeed，glidingthroughliquidleagues，slidingfromhorizontohorizon。ShehaspassedCapeSable；shehasreachedtheBanks；theland—birdsareleft；gulls，haglets，ducks，petrels，swim，dive，andhoveraround；
nofishermen；shehaspassedtheBanks；leftfivesailbehindher，farontheedgeofthewestatsundown，whichwerefareastofusatmorn，——thoughtheysayatseaasternchaseisalongrace，——andstillweflyforourlives。Theshortestsea—linefromBostontoLiverpoolis2850miles。Thisasteamerkeeps，andsaves150miles。
Asailingshipcannevergoinashorterlinethan3000，andusuallyitismuchlonger。Ourgoodmasterkeepshiskitesuptothelastmoment，studding—sailsalowandaloft，and，byincessantstraightsteering，neverlosesarodofway。Watchfulnessisthelawoftheship，——watchonwatch，foradvantageandforlife。Sincetheshipwasbuilt，itseems，themasterneversleptbutinhisday—clotheswhilstonboard。"Therearemanyadvantages，"saysSaadi，"insea—voyaging，butsecurityisnotoneofthem。"Yetinhurryingovertheseabysses，whateverdangerswearerunninginto，wearecertainlyrunningoutoftherisksofhundredsofmileseveryday，whichhavetheirownchancesofsquall，collision，sea—stroke，piracy，cold，andthunder。Hourforhour，theriskonasteamboatisgreater；butthespeedissafety，or，twelvedaysofdanger，insteadoftwenty—four。
Ourshipwasregistered750tons，andweighedperhaps，withallherfreight，1500tons。Themainmast，fromthedecktothetop—button，measured115feet；thelengthofthedeck，fromstemtostern，155。Itisimpossiblenottopersonifyaship；everybodydoes，ineverythingtheysay：——shebehaveswell；shemindsherrudder；sheswimslikeaduck；sherunshernoseintothewater；shelooksintoaport。Thenthatwonderful_espritducorps_，bywhichweadoptintoourself—loveeverythingwetouch，makesusallchampionsofhersailingqualities。
Theconsciousshiphearsallthepraise。Inoneweekshehasmade1467miles，andnow，atnight，seemstohearthesteamerbehindher，whichleftBostonto—dayattwo，hasmendedherspeed，andisflyingbeforethegraysouthwindelevenandahalfknotsthehour。
Thesea—fireshinesinherwake，andfararoundwhereverawavebreaks。Ireadthehour，9h。45’，onmywatchbythislight。Neartheequator，youcanreadsmallprintbyit；andthematedescribesthephosphoricinsects，whentakenupinapail，asshapedlikeaCarolinapotato。
Ifindthesea—lifeanacquiredtaste，likethatfortomatoesandolives。Theconfinement，cold，motion，noise，andodorarenottobedispensedwith。Thefloorofyourroomisslopedatanangleoftwentyorthirtydegrees，andIwakedeverymorningwiththebeliefthatsomeonewastippingupmyberth。Nobodylikestobetreatedignominiously，upset，shovedagainstthesideofthehouse，rolledover，suffocatedwithbilge，mephitis，andstewingoil。Wegetusedtotheseannoyancesatlast，butthedreadofthesearemainslonger。Theseaismasculine，thetypeofactivestrength。
Look，whategg—shellsaredriftingalloverit，eachone，likeours，filledwithmeninecstasiesofterror，alternatingwithcockneyconceit，astheseaisroughorsmooth。Isthissad—coloredcircleaneternalcemetery？Inourgraveyardswescoopapit，butthisaggressivewateropensmile—widepitsandchasms，andmakesamouthfulofafleet。Tothegeologist，theseaistheonlyfirmament；thelandisinperpetualfluxandchange，nowblownuplikeatumor，nowsunkinachasm，andtheregisteredobservationsofafewhundredyearsfinditinaperpetualtilt，risingandfalling。
Theseakeepsitsoldlevel；and’tisnowonderthatthehistoryofourraceissorecent，iftheroaroftheoceanissilencingourtraditions。Arisingofthesea，suchashasbeenobserved，sayaninchinacentury，fromeasttowestontheland，willburyallthetowns，monuments，bones，andknowledgeofmankind，steadilyandinsensibly。Ifitiscapableofthesegreatandsecularmischiefs，itisquiteasreadyatprivateandlocaldamage；andofthisnolandsmanseemssofearfulastheseaman。SuchdiscomfortandsuchdangerasthenarrativesofthecaptainandmatedisclosearebadenoughasthecostlyfeewepayforentrancetoEurope；butthewonderisalwaysnewthatanysanemancanbeasailor。Andhere，ontheseconddayofourvoyage，steppedoutalittleboyinhisshirt—sleeves，whohadhidhimself，whilsttheshipwasinport，inthebread—closet，havingnomoney，andwishingtogotoEngland。ThesailorshavedressedhiminGuernseyfrock，withaknifeinhisbelt，andheisclimbingnimblyaboutafterthem，"likestheworkfirst—rate，and，ifthecaptainwilltakehim，meansnowtocomebackagainintheship。"Themateaversthatthisisthehistoryofallsailors；nineoutoftenarerunawayboys；andadds，thatallofthemaresickofthesea，butstayinitoutofpride。Jackhasalifeofrisks，incessantabuse，andtheworstpay。Itisalittlebetterwiththemate，andnotverymuchbetterwiththecaptain。Ahundreddollarsamonthisreckonedhighpay。Ifsailorswerecontented，iftheyhadnotresolvedagainandagainnottogotoseaanymore，I
shouldrespectthem。
Ofcourse，theinconveniencesandterrorsoftheseaarenotofanyaccounttothosewhosemindsarepreoccupied。Thewater—laws，arcticfrost，themountain，themine，onlyshattercockneyism；everynobleactivitymakesroomforitself。Agreatmindisagoodsailor，asagreatheartis。Andtheseaisnotslowindisclosinginestimablesecretstoagoodnaturalist。
’Tisagoodruleineveryjourneytoprovidesomepieceofliberalstudytorescuethehourswhichbadweather，badcompany，andtavernsstealfromthebesteconomist。Classicswhichathomearedrowsilyreadhaveastrangecharminacountryinn，orinthetransomofamerchantbrig。IrememberthatsomeofthehappiestandmostvaluablehoursIhaveowedtobooks，passed，manyyearsago，onshipboard。TheworstimpedimentIhavefoundatseaisthewantoflightinthecabin。
Wefoundonboardtheusualcabinlibrary；BasilHall，Dumas，Dickens，Bulwer，Balzac，andSandwereoursea—gods。Amongthepassengers，therewassomevarietyoftalentandprofession；weexchangedourexperiences，andalllearnedsomething。Thebusiesttalkwithleisureandconvenienceatsea，andsometimesamemorablefactturnsup，whichyouhavelonghadavacantnichefor，andseizewiththejoyofacollector。But，underthebestconditions，avoyageisoneoftheseverestteststotryaman。Acollegeexaminationisnothingtoit。Sea—daysarelong，——theselack—lustre，joylessdayswhichwhistledoverus；buttheywerefew，——onlyfifteen，asthecaptaincounted，sixteenaccordingtome。
Reckonedfromthetimewhenweleftsoundings，ourspeedwassuchthatthecaptaindrewthelineofhiscourseinredinkonhischart，fortheencouragementorenvyoffuturenavigators。
IthasbeensaidthattheKingofEnglandwouldconsulthisdignitybygivingaudiencetoforeignambassadorsinthecabinofaman—of—war。AndIthinkthewhitepathofanAtlanticshiptherightavenuetothepalacefrontofthissea—faringpeople，whoforhundredsofyearsclaimedthestrictsovereigntyofthesea，andexactedtollandthestrikingsailfromtheshipsofallotherpeoples。WhentheirprivilegewasdisputedbytheDutchandotherjuniormarines，onthepleathatyoucouldneveranchoronthesamewave，orholdpropertyinwhatwasalwaysflowing，theEnglishdidnotsticktoclaimthechannel，orbottomofallthemain。"Asif，"
saidthey，"wecontendedforthedropsofthesea，andnotforitssituation，orthebedofthosewaters。Theseaisboundedbyhismajesty’sempire。"
Aswenearedtheland，itsgeniuswasfelt。ThiswasinevitablytheBritishside。Ineveryman’sthoughtarisesnowanewsystem，Englishsentiments，Englishlovesandfears，Englishhistoryandsocialmodes。Yesterday，everypassengerhadmeasuredthespeedoftheshipbywatchingthebubblesovertheship’sbulwarks。
To—day，insteadofbubbles，wemeasurebyKinsale，Cork，Waterford，andArdmore。TherelaythegreenshoreofIreland，likesomecoastofplenty。Wecouldseetowns，towers，churches，harvests；butthecurseofeighthundredyearswecouldnotdiscern。
ChapterIII_Land_
AlfierithoughtItalyandEnglandtheonlycountriesworthlivingin；theformer，becausetherenaturevindicatesherrights，andtriumphsovertheevilsinflictedbythegovernments；thelatter，becauseartconquersnature，andtransformsarude，ungeniallandintoaparadiseofcomfortandplenty。Englandisagarden。Underanash—coloredsky，thefieldshavebeencombedandrolledtilltheyappeartohavebeenfinishedwithapencilinsteadofaplough。Thesolidityofthestructuresthatcomposethetownsspeakstheindustryofages。Nothingisleftasitwasmade。Rivers，hills，valleys，theseaitselffeelthehandofamaster。Thelonghabitationofapowerfulandingeniousracehasturnedeveryroodoflandtoitsbestuse，hasfoundallthecapabilities，thearablesoil，thequarriablerock，thehighways，thebyways，thefords，thenavigablewaters；andthenewartsofintercoursemeetyoueverywhere；sothatEnglandisahugephalanstery，whereallthatmanwantsisprovidedwithintheprecinct。Cushionedandcomfortedineverymanner，thetravellerridesasonacannon—ball，highandlow，overriversandtowns，throughmountains，intunnelsofthreeorfourmiles，atneartwicethespeedofourtrains；andreadsquietlytheTimesnewspaper，which，byitsimmensecorrespondenceandreporting，seemstohavemachinizedtherestoftheworldforhisoccasion。
TheproblemofthetravellerlandingatLiverpoolis，WhyEnglandisEngland？WhataretheelementsofthatpowerwhichtheEnglishholdoverothernations？Iftherebeonetestofnationalgeniusuniversallyaccepted，itissuccess；andiftherebeonesuccessfulcountryintheuniverseforthelastmillennium，thatcountryisEngland。
Awisetravellerwillnaturallychoosetovisitthebestofactualnations；andanAmericanhasmorereasonsthananothertodrawhimtoBritain。InallthatisdoneorbegunbytheAmericanstowardsrightthinkingorpractice，wearemetbyacivilizationalreadysettledandoverpowering。Thecultureoftheday，thethoughtsandaimsofmen，areEnglishthoughtsandaims。AnationconsiderableforathousandyearssinceEgbert，ithas，inthelastcenturies，obtainedtheascendant，andstampedtheknowledge，activity，andpowerofmankindwithitsimpress。Thosewhoresistitdonotfeelitorobeyitless。TheRussianinhissnowsisaimingtobeEnglish。TheTurkandChinesealsoaremakingawkwardeffortstobeEnglish。Thepracticalcommon—senseofmodernsociety，theutilitariandirectionwhichlabor，laws，opinion，religiontake，isthenaturalgeniusoftheBritishmind。TheinfluenceofFranceisaconstituentofmoderncivility，butnotenoughopposedtotheEnglishforthemostwholesomeeffect。TheAmericanisonlythecontinuationoftheEnglishgeniusintonewconditions，moreorlesspropitious。
Seewhatbooksfillourlibraries。Everybookweread，everybiography，play，romance，inwhateverform，isstillEnglishhistoryandmanners。SothatasensibleEnglishmanoncesaidtome，"Aslongasyoudonotgrantuscopyright，weshallhavetheteachingofyou。"
ButwehavethesamedifficultyinmakingasocialormoralestimateofEngland，asthesherifffindsindrawingajurytotrysomecausewhichhasagitatedthewholecommunity，andonwhicheverybodyfindshimselfaninterestedparty。Officers，jurors，judgeshavealltakensides。Englandhasinoculatedallnationswithhercivilization，intelligence，andtastes；and，toresistthetyrannyandprepossessionoftheBritishelement，aseriousmanmustaidhimself，bycomparingwithitthecivilizationsofthefarthesteastandwest，theoldGreek，theOriental，and，muchmore，theidealstandard，ifonlybymeansoftheveryimpatiencewhichEnglishformsaresuretoawakeninindependentminds。
Besides，ifwewillvisitLondon，thepresenttimeisthebesttime，assomesignsportendthatithasreacheditshighestpoint。
ItisobservedthattheEnglishinterestusalittlelesswithinafewyears；andhencetheimpressionthattheBritishpowerhasculminated，isinsolstice，oralreadydeclining。
AssoonasyouenterEngland，which，withWales，isnolargerthantheStateofGeorgia，（*）thislittlelandstretchesbyanillusiontothedimensionsofanempire。Theinnumerabledetails，thecrowdedsuccessionoftowns，cities，cathedrals，castles，andgreatanddecoratedestates，thenumberandpowerofthetradesandguilds，themilitarystrengthandsplendor，themultitudesofrichandofremarkablepeople，theservantsandequipages，——allthesecatchingtheeye，andneverallowingittopause，hideallboundaries，bytheimpressionofmagnificenceandendlesswealth。
（*）AddSouthCarolina，andyouhavemorethananequivalentfortheareaofScotland。
Ireplytoalltheurgenciesthatrefermetothisandthatobjectindispensablytobeseen，——Yes，toseeEnglandwellneedsahundredyears；for，whattheytoldmewasthemeritofSirJohnSoane’sMuseum，inLondon，——thatitwaswellpackedandwellsaved，——isthemeritofEngland；——itisstuffedfull，inallcornersandcrevices，withtowns，towers，churches，villas，palaces，hospitals，andcharity—houses。Inthehistoryofart，itisalongwayfromacromlechtoYorkminster；yetalltheintermediatestepsmaystillbetracedinthisall—preservingisland。
Theterritoryhasasingularperfection。Theclimateiswarmerbymanydegreesthanitisentitledtobylatitude。Neitherhotnorcold，thereisnohourinthewholeyearwhenonecannotwork。Hereisnowinter，butsuchdaysaswehaveinMassachusettsinNovember，atemperaturewhichmakesnoexhaustingdemandonhumanstrength，butallowstheattainmentofthelargeststature。CharlestheSecondsaid，"itinvitedmenabroadmoredaysintheyearandmorehoursinthedaythananothercountry。"ThenEnglandhasallthematerialsofaworkingcountryexceptwood。Theconstantrain，——arainwitheverytide，insomepartsoftheisland，——keepsitsmultitudeofriversfull，andbringsagriculturalproductionuptothehighestpoint。Ithasplentyofwater，ofstone，ofpotter’sclay，ofcoal，ofsalt，andofiron。Thelandnaturallyaboundswithgame，immenseheathsanddownsarepavedwithquails，grouse，andwoodcock，andtheshoresareanimatedbywaterbirds。Theriversandthesurroundingseaspawnwithfish；therearesalmonfortherich，andspratsandherringsforthepoor。Inthenorthernlochs，theherringareininnumerableshoals；atoneseason，thecountrypeoplesay，thelakescontainonepartwaterandtwopartsfish。
Theonlydrawbackonthisindustrialconveniency，isthedarknessofitssky。Thenightanddayaretoonearlyofacolor。
Itstrainstheeyestoreadandtowrite。Addthecoalsmoke。Inthemanufacturingtowns，thefinesootor_blacks_darkentheday，givewhitesheepthecolorofblacksheep，discolorthehumansaliva，contaminatetheair，poisonmanyplants，andcorrodethemonumentsandbuildings。
TheLondonfogaggravatesthedistempersofthesky，andsometimesjustifiestheepigramontheclimatebyanEnglishwit，"inafineday，lookingupachimney；inafoulday，lookingdownone。"A
gentlemaninLiverpooltoldmethathefoundhecoulddowithoutafireinhisparloraboutonedayintheyear。Itishoweverpretended，thattheenormousconsumptionofcoalintheislandisalsofeltinmodifyingthegeneralclimate。
Factitiousclimate，factitiousposition。Englandresemblesashipinitsshape，and，ifitwereone，itsbestadmiralcouldnothaveworkedit，oranchoreditinamorejudiciousoreffectiveposition。SirJohnHerschelsaid，"Londonwasthecentreoftheterreneglobe。"Theshopkeepingnation，touseashopword，hasa_goodstand。_TheoldVenetianspleasedthemselveswiththeflattery，thatVenicewasin45degrees，midwaybetweenthepolesandtheline；asifthatwereanimperialcentrality。Longofold，theGreeksfanciedDelphithenaveloftheearth，intheirfavoritemodeoffablingtheearthtobeananimal。TheJewsbelievedJerusalemtobethecentre。IhaveseenakratometricchartdesignedtoshowthatthecityofPhiladelphiawasinthesamethermicbelt，and，byinference，inthesamebeltofempire，asthecitiesofAthens，Rome，andLondon。ItwasdrawnbyapatrioticPhiladelphian，andwasexaminedwithpleasure，underhisshowing，bytheinhabitantsofChestnutStreet。But，whencarriedtoCharleston，toNewOrleans，andtoBoston，itsomehowfailedtoconvincetheingeniousscholarsofallthosecapitals。
ButEnglandisanchoredatthesideofEurope，andrightintheheartofthemodernworld。Thesea，which，accordingtoVirgil’sfamousline，dividedthepoorBritonsutterlyfromtheworld，provedtobetheringofmarriagewithallnations。Itisnotdowninthebooks，——itiswrittenonlyinthegeologicstrata，——thatfortunatedaywhenawaveoftheGermanOceanbursttheoldisthmuswhichjoinedKentandCornwalltoFrance，andgavetothisfragmentofEuropeitsimpregnableseawall，cuttingoffanislandofeighthundredmilesinlength，withanirregularbreadthreachingtothreehundredmiles；aterritorylargeenoughforindependenceenrichedwitheveryseedofnationalpower，sonear，thatitcanseetheharvestsofthecontinent；andsofar，thatwhowouldcrossthestraitmustbeanexpertmariner，readyfortempests。AsAmerica，Europe，andAsialie，theseBritonshavepreciselythebestcommercialpositioninthewholeplanet，andaresureofamarketforallthegoodstheycanmanufacture。Andtomaketheseadvantagesavail，theRiverThamesmustdigitsspaciousoutlettotheseafromtheheartofthekingdom，givingroadandlandingtoinnumerableships，andalltheconveniencytotrade，thatapeoplesoskilfulandsufficientineconomizingwater—frontbydocks，warehouses，andlightersrequired。WhenJamestheFirstdeclaredhispurposeofpunishingLondonbyremovinghisCourt，theLordMayorreplied，"that，inremovinghisroyalpresencefromhislieges，theyhopedhewouldleavethemtheThames。"
Inthevarietyofsurface，BritainisaminiatureofEurope，havingplain，forest，marsh，river，sea—shore；minesinCornwall；
cavesinMatlockandDerbyshire；deliciouslandscapeinDovedale，delicioussea—viewatTorBay，HighlandsinScotland，SnowdoninWales；and，inWestmorelandandCumberland，apocketSwitzerland，inwhichthelakesandmountainsareonasufficientscaletofilltheeyeandtouchtheimagination。Itisanationconvenientlysmall。
Fontenellethought，thatnaturehadsometimesalittleaffectation；
andthereissuchanartificialcompletenessinthisnationofartificers，asiftherewereadesignfromthebeginningtoelaborateabiggerBirmingham。Natureheldcounselwithherself，andsaid，`MyRomansaregone。Tobuildmynewempire，Iwillchoosearuderace，allmasculine，withbrutishstrength。Iwillnotgrudgeacompetitionoftheroughestmales。Letbuffalogorebuffalo，andthepasturetothestrongest！ForIhaveworkthatrequiresthebestwillandsinew。Sharpandtemperatenorthernbreezesshallblow，tokeepthatwillaliveandalert。Theseashalldisjointhepeoplefromothers，andknitthemtoafiercenationality。Itshallgivethemmarketsoneveryside。LongtimeIwillkeepthemontheirfeet，bypoverty，border—wars，seafaring，sea—risks，andthestimulusofgain。Anisland，——butnotsolarge，thepeoplenotsomanyastoglutthegreatmarketsanddepressoneanother，butproportionedtothesizeofEuropeandthecontinents。’
Withitsfruits，andwares，andmoney，mustitscivilinfluenceradiate。Itisasingularcoincidencetothisgeographiccentrality，thespiritualcentrality，whichEmanuelSwedenborgascribestothepeople。"FortheEnglishnation，thebestofthemareinthecentreofallChristians，becausetheyhaveinteriorintellectuallight。
Thisappearsconspicuouslyinthespiritualworld。Thislighttheyderivefromthelibertyofspeakingandwriting，andtherebyofthinking。"
ChapterIV_Race_
Aningeniousanatomisthaswrittenabook（*）toprovethatracesareimperishable，butnationsarepliantpoliticalconstructions，easilychangedordestroyed。Butthiswriterdidnotfoundhisassumedracesonanynecessarylaw，disclosingtheiridealormetaphysicalnecessity；nordidhe，ontheotherhand，countwithprecisiontheexistingraces，andsettlethetruebounds；apointofnicety，andthepopulartestofthetheory。Theindividualsattheextremesofdivergenceinoneraceofmenareasunlikeasthewolftothelapdog。Yeteachvarietyshadesdownimperceptiblyintothenext，andyoucannotdrawthelinewherearacebeginsorends。
Henceeverywritermakesadifferentcount。Blumenbachreckonsfiveraces；Humboldtthree；andMr。Pickering，wholately，inourExploringExpedition，thinkshesawallthekindsofmenthatcanbeontheplanet，makeseleven。
（*）TheRaces，aFragment。ByRobertKnox。London：1850。
TheBritishEmpireisreckonedtocontain222，000，000souls，——
perhapsafifthofthepopulationoftheglobe；andtocompriseaterritoryof5，000，000squaremiles。SofarhaveBritishpeoplepredominated。PerhapsfortyofthesemillionsareofBritishstock。
AddtheUnitedStatesofAmerica，whichreckon，exclusiveofslaves，20，000，000ofpeople，onaterritoryof3，000，000squaremiles，andinwhichtheforeignelement，howeverconsiderable，israpidlyassimilated，andyouhaveapopulationofEnglishdescentandlanguage，of60，000，000，andgoverningapopulationof245，000，000
souls。
TheBritishcensusproperreckonstwenty—sevenandahalfmillionsinthehomecountries。Whatmakesthiscensusimportantisthequalityoftheunitsthatcomposeit。Theyarefreeforciblemen，inacountrywherelifeissafe，andhasreachedthegreatestvalue。Theygivethebiastothecurrentage；andthat，notbychanceorbymass，butbytheircharacter，andbythenumberofindividualsamongthemofpersonalability。IthasbeendeniedthattheEnglishhavegenius。Beitasitmay，menofvastintellecthavebeenbornontheirsoil，andtheyhavemadeorappliedtheprincipalinventions。Theyhavesoundbodies，andsupremeenduranceinwarandinlabor。Thespawningforceoftheracehassufficedtothecolonizationofgreatpartsoftheworld；yetitremainstobeseenwhethertheycanmakegoodtheexodusofmillionsfromGreatBritain，amounting，in1852，tomorethanathousandaday。Theyhaveassimilatingforce，sincetheyareimitatedbytheirforeignsubjects；andtheyarestillaggressiveandpropagandist，enlargingthedominionoftheirartsandliberty。Theirlawsarehospitable，andslaverydoesnotexistunderthem。Whatoppressionexistsisincidentalandtemporary；theirsuccessisnotsuddenorfortunate，buttheyhavemaintainedconstancyandself—equalityformanyages。
Isthispowerduetotheirrace，ortosomeothercause？Menheargladlyofthepowerofbloodorrace。Everybodylikestoknowthathisadvantagescannotbeattributedtoair，soil，sea，ortolocalwealth，asminesandquarries，nortolawsandtraditions，nortofortune，buttosuperiorbrain，asitmakesthepraisemorepersonaltohim。
Weanticipateinthedoctrineofracesomethinglikethatlawofphysiology，that，whateverbone，muscle，oressentialorganisfoundinonehealthyindividual，thesamepartororganmaybefoundinornearthesameplaceinitscongener；andwelooktofindinthesoneverymentalandmoralpropertythatexistedintheancestor。Inrace，itisnotthebroadshoulders，orlitheness，orstaturethatgiveadvantage，butasymmetrythatreachesasfarastothewit。
Thenthemiracleandrenownbegin。Thenfirstwecaretoexaminethepedigree，andcopyheedfullythetraining，——whatfoodtheyate，whatnursing，school，andexercisestheyhad，whichresultedinthismother—wit，delicacyofthought，androbustwisdom。HowcamesuchmenasKingAlfred，andRogerBacon，WilliamofWykeham，WalterRaleigh，PhilipSidney，IsaacNewton，WilliamShakspeare，GeorgeChapman，FrancisBacon，GeorgeHerbert，HenryVane，toexisthere？
Whatmadethesedelicatenatures？wasittheair？wasitthesea？wasittheparentage？Foritiscertainthatthesemenaresamplesoftheircontemporaries。Thehearingearisalwaysfoundclosetothespeakingtongue；andnogeniuscanlongoroftenutteranythingwhichisnotinvitedandgladlyentertainedbymenaroundhim。
Itisrace，isitnot？thatputsthehundredmillionsofIndiaunderthedominionofaremoteislandinthenorthofEurope。Raceavailsmuch，ifthatbetrue，whichisalleged，thatallCeltsareCatholics，andallSaxonsareProtestants；thatCeltsloveunityofpower，andSaxonstherepresentativeprinciple。RaceisacontrollinginfluenceintheJew，who，fortwomillenniums，undereveryclimate，haspreservedthesamecharacterandemployments。
Raceinthenegroisofappallingimportance。TheFrenchinCanada，cutofffromallintercoursewiththeparentpeople，haveheldtheirnationaltraits。IchancedtoreadTacitus"ontheMannersoftheGermans，"notlongsince，inMissouri，andtheheartofIllinois，andIfoundabundantpointsofresemblancebetweentheGermansoftheHercynianforest，andour_Hoosiers_，_Suckers_，and_Badgers_oftheAmericanwoods。
Butwhilstraceworksimmortallytokeepitsown，itisresistedbyotherforces。Civilizationisare—agent，andeatsawaytheoldtraits。TheArabsofto—dayaretheArabsofPharaoh；buttheBritonofto—dayisaverydifferentpersonfromCassibelaunusorOssian。Eachreligioussecthasitsphysiognomy。TheMethodistshaveacquiredaface；theQuakers，aface；thenuns，aface。AnEnglishmanwillpickoutadissenterbyhismanners。Tradesandprofessionscarvetheirownlinesonfaceandform。CertaincircumstancesofEnglishlifearenotlesseffective；as，personalliberty；plentyoffood；goodaleandmutton；openmarket，orgoodwagesforeverykindoflabor；highbribestotalentandskill；theislandlife，orthemillionopportunitiesandoutletsforexpandingandmisplacedtalent；readinessofcombinationamongthemselvesforpoliticsorforbusiness；strikes；andsenseofsuperiorityfoundedonhabitofvictoryinlaborandinwar；andtheappetiteforsuperioritygrowsbyfeeding。
Itiseasytoaddtothecounteractingforcestorace。