"Eighteen,sir,lastCandlemas,"saidthefreckledmaid。
"Areyourparentsalive?"
"Mymotheris,sir,butmyfatherisdead。"
"Whatwasyourfather?"
"HewasanIrishman,sir!andbootstothisinn。"
"IsyourmotherIrish?"
"No,sir,sheisofthisplace;myfathermarriedhershortlyafterhecamehere。"
"Ofwhatreligionareyou?"
"Church,sir,Church。"
"WasyourfatheroftheChurch?"
"Notalways,sir;hewasoncewhatiscalledaCatholic。HeturnedtotheChurchafterhecamehere。"
"A’n’tthereagreatmanyMethodistsinBala?"
"Plenty,sir,plenty。"
"HowcameyourfathernottogoovertotheMethodistsinsteadoftheChurch?"
"’Causehedidn’tlikethem,sir;heusedtosaytheywereatrumpery,cheatingset;thattheywouldn’tswear,butwouldliethroughathree—inchboard。"
"IsupposeyourmotherisaChurch—woman?"
"Sheisnow,sir;butbeforesheknewmyfathershewasaMethodist。"
"Ofwhatreligionisthemasterofthehouse?"
"Church,sir,Church;soisallthefamily。"
"Whoistheclergymanoftheplace?"
"MrPugh,sir!"
"Isheagoodpreacher?"
"Capital,sir!andsoiseachofhiscurates;heandtheyareconvertingtheMethodistsleftandright。"
"Ishouldliketohearhim。"
"Well,sir!thatyoucando。Mymaster,whoisgoingtochurchpresently,willbehappytoaccommodateyouinhispew。"
Iwenttochurchwiththelandlord,atallgentlemanlymanofthenameofJones—OhthateternalnameofJones!Rainwasfallingfast,andweweregladtoholdupourumbrellas。WedidnotgotothechurchatBala,atwhichtherewasnoservicethatmorning,buttothatofalittlevillagecloseby,onthesideofthelake,thelivingofwhichisincorporatedwiththatofBala。Thechurchstandslowdownbythelakeatthebottomofalittlenook。ItsnamewhichisLlanuwchLlyn,isdescriptiveofitsposition,signifyingtheChurchabovetheLake。Itisalong,low,ancientedifice,standingnorth—eastbysouth—west。Thevillageisjustaboveitonarisingground,behindwhichareloftyhillspleasantlydottedwithgroves,trees,andhouses。Theinterioroftheedificehasasomewhatdilapidatedappearance。TheservicewasinWelsh。Theclergymanwasaboutfortyyearsofage,andhadahighly—intelligentlook。Hisvoicewasremarkablyclearanddistinct。Hepreachedanexcellentpracticalsermon,text,14thchapter,22ndverseofLuke,aboutsendingoutservantstoinvitepeopletothesupper。Afterthesermontherewasagatheringforthepoor。
AsIreturnedtotheinnIhadagooddealofconversationwiththelandlordonreligioussubjects。HetoldmethattheChurchofEngland,whichforalongtimehadbeenadown—troddenChurchinWales,hadoflatebeguntoraiseitshead,andchieflyowingtothezealandactivityofitspresentministers;thattheformerministersoftheChurchweregoodmen,buthadnotenergyenoughtosuitthetimesinwhichtheylived;thatthepresentministersfoughttheMethodistpreacherswiththeirownweapons,namely,extemporarypreaching,andbeatthem,winningshoalsfromtheircongregations。HeseemedtothinkthatthetimewasnotfardistantwhentheAnglicanChurchwouldbethepopularaswellastheestablishedChurchofWales。
Findingmyselfratherdullintheinn,Iwentoutagain,notwithstandingthatitrained。IascendedthetomanormoundwhichIhadvisitedonaformeroccasion。Nothingcouldbemoredesolateanddrearythanthescenearound。Thewoodswerestrippedoftheirverdureandthehillswerehalfshroudedinmist。Howunlikewasthisscenetothesmiling,gloriousprospectwhichhadgreetedmyeyesafewmonthsbefore。Theraincomingdownwithredoubledviolence,Iwassoongladtodescendandregaintheinn。
ShortlybeforedinnerIwasvisitedbythelandlady,afinetallwomanofaboutfifty,withconsiderableremainsofbeautyinhercountenance。ShecametoaskmeifIwascomfortable。ItoldherthatitwasmyownfaultifIwasnot。Weweresooninveryfriendlydiscourse。Iaskedherhermaidenname。
"Owen,"saidshe,laughing,"which,aftermypresentnameofJones,isthemostcommonnameinWales。"
"Theywerebothoneandthesameoriginally,"saidI,"OwenandJonesbothmeanJohn。"
ShetoowasastaunchmemberoftheChurchofEngland,whichshesaidwastheonlytrueChurch。Shespokeintermsofhighrespectandadmirationofherminister,andsaidthatanewchurchwasbeingbuilt,theoldonenotbeinglargeenoughtoaccommodatethenumberswhothrongedtohearhim。
Ihadanoblegoosefordinner,towhichIdidamplejustice。
Aboutfouro’clock,theweatherhavingclearedup,Itookastroll。
Itwasabeautifulevening,thoughraincloudsstillhoveredabout。
IwanderedtothenorthernendofLlynTegid,whichIhadpassedintheprecedingevening。Thewindwasblowingfromthesouth,andtinywaveswerebeatingagainsttheshore,whichconsistedofsmallbrownpebbles。Thelakehascertainlynotitsname,whichsignifiesLakeofBeauty,fornothing。Itisabeautifulsheetofwater,andbeautifullysituated。Itisoblongandaboutsixmilesinlength。Onallsides,excepttothenorth,itisboundedbyhills。Thoseatthesouthernendareverylofty,thetallestofwhichisArran,whichliftsitsheadtothecloudslikeahugeloaf。AsIwanderedonthestrandIthoughtofacertainBritishprinceandpoet,whointheveryoldtimesoughtarefugeinthevicinityofthelakefromtherageoftheSaxons。HisnamewasLlewarchHen,ofwhomIwillnowsayafewwords。
LlewarchHen,orLlewarchtheAged,wasbornaboutthecommencementofthesixthanddiedaboutthemiddleoftheseventhcentury,havingattainedtotheprodigiousageofonehundredandfortyorfiftyyears,whichisperhapsthelotofaboutfortyindividualsinthecourseofamillennium。Ifhewasremarkableforhisyearshewasnolesssoforthenumberofhismisfortunes。HewasoneoftheprincesoftheCumbrianBritons;butCumbriawasinvadedbytheSaxons,andasceneofhorridwarensued。Llewarchandhissons,ofwhomhehadtwenty—four,putthemselvesattheheadoftheirforces,andinconjunctionwiththeotherCumbrianprincesmadeabravebutfruitlessoppositiontotheinvaders。Mostofhissonswereslain,andhehimselfwiththeremaindersoughtshelterinPowys,inthehallofCynddylan,itsprince。ButtheSaxonbillsandbowsfoundtheirwaytoPowystoo。Cynddylanwasslain,andwithhimthelastofthesonsofLlewarch,who,reftofhisprotector,retiredtoahutbythesideofthelakeofBala,wherehelivedthelifeofarecluse,andcomposedelegiesonhissonsandslaughteredfriends,andonhisoldage,allofwhichaboundwithsomuchsimplicityandpathosthattheheartofhimmustbehardindeedwhocanreadthemunmoved。Whilstaprincehewasreveredforhiswisdomandequity,andheissaidinoneofthehistoricaltriadstohavebeenoneofthethreeconsultingwarriorsofArthur。
IntheeveningIattendedserviceintheoldchurchatBala。Theinterioroftheedificewasremarkablyplain;noornamentofanykindwasdistinguishable;thecongregationwasoverflowing,amongstwhomIobservedtheinnkeeperandhiswife,thelittlefreckledmaidandtheboots。TheentireservicewasinWelsh。NexttothepewinwhichIsatwasonefilledwithyoungsingingwomen,allofwhomseemedtohavevoicesofwonderfulpower。Theprayerswerereadbyastrappingyoungcurateatleastsixfeethigh。Thesermonwaspreachedbytherector,andwasacontinuationoftheonewhichIhadheardhimpreachinthemorning。Itwasaverycomfortingdiscourse,asthepreacherclearlyprovedthateverysinnerwillbepardonedwhocomestoJesus。Iwasparticularlystruckwithonepart。ThepreachersaidthatJesus’armsbeingstretchedoutuponthecrosswasemblematicofHissurprisingloveandHiswillingnesstoreceiveanybody。TheserviceconcludedwiththenobleanthemTeyrnasaJesuMawr,"MayMightyJesusreign!"
TheserviceoverIreturnedtotheparlouroftheinn。ThereIsatforalong—time,loneandsolitary,staringatthefireinthegrate。Iwastheonlyguestinthehouse;agreatsilenceprevailedbothwithinandwithout;sometimesfiveminuteselapsedwithoutmyhearingasound,andthen,perhaps,thesilencewouldbebrokenbyafootstepatadistanceinthestreet。Atlength,findingmyselfyawning,Ideterminedtogotobed。ThefreckledmaidasshelightedmetomyroominquiredhowIlikedthesermon。
"Verymuch,"saidI。"Ah,"saidshe,"didInottellyouthatMrPughwasacapitalpreacher?"ShethenaskedmehowIlikedthesingingofthegalswhosatinthenextpewtomine。ItoldherthatIlikeditexceedingly。"Ah,"saidshe,"themgalshavethebestvoicesinBala。TheywereonceMethodygals,andsanginthechapels,butwereconverted,andarenowasgoodChurchasmyself。
Themgalshavebeenthecauseofagreatmanyconvarsions,foralltheyoungfellowsoftheiracquaintanceamongsttheMethodists—"
"Followthemtochurch,"saidI,"andintimebecomeconverted。
That’sathingofcourse。IftheChurchgetsthegirlssheisquitesureofthefellows。"
CHAPTERLXXIV
ProceedonJourney—TheLadandDog—OldBala—ThePass—
ExtensiveView—TheTwoMen—TheTapNyth—TheMeetingoftheWaters—TheWildValley—DinasMawddwy。
THEMondaymorningwasgloomyandmisty,butitdidnotrain,acircumstancewhichgavemenolittlepleasure,asIintendedtocontinuemyjourneywithoutdelay。AfterbreakfastIbadefarewelltomykindhost,andalsotothefreckledmaid,anddeparted,mysatchelo’ermyshoulderandmyumbrellainmyhand。
IhadconsultedthelandlordonthepreviousdayastowhereIhadbestmakemynexthalt,andhadbeenadvisedbyhimtostopatMallwyd。HesaidthatifIfelttiredIcouldputupatDinasMawddwy,abouttwomilesonthissideofMallwyd,butthatifI
werenothewouldadvisemetogoon,asIshouldfindverypooraccommodationatDinas。Onmyinquiringastothenatureoftheroad,hetoldmethatthefirstpartofitwastolerablygood,lyingalongtheeasternsideofthelake,butthatthegreaterpartofitwasveryrough,overhillsandmountains,belongingtothegreatchainofArran,whichconstituteduponthewholethewildestpartofallWales。
PassingbythenorthernendofthelakeIturnedtothesouth,andproceededalongaroadalittlewayabovethesideofthelake。
Thedayhadnowtoacertainextentclearedup,andthelakewasoccasionallygildedbybeamsofbrightsunshine。AfterwalkingalittlewayIovertookaladdressedinawhitegreatcoatandattendedbyatolerablylargeblackdog。IaddressedhiminEnglish,butfindingthathedidnotunderstandmeIbegantotalktohiminWelsh。
"That’safinedog,"saidI。
LAD。—Veryfine,sir,andagooddog;thoughyounghehasbeenknowntokillrats。
MYSELF。—Whatishisname?
LAD。—HisnameisToby,sir。
MYSELF。—Andwhatisyourname?
LAD。—JohnJones,sir。
MYSELF。—Andwhatisyourfather’s?
LAD。—WaladrJones,sir。
MYSELF。—IsWaladrthesameasCadwaladr?
LAD。—Intruth,sir,itis。
MYSELF。—Thatisafinename。
LAD。—Itis,sir;Ihaveheardmyfathersaythatitwasthenameofaking。
MYSELF。—Whatisyourfather?
LAD。—Afarmer,sir。
MYSELF。—Doeshefarmhisownland?
LAD。—Hedoesnot,sir;heistenanttoMrPriceofHiwlas。
MYSELF。—DoyoulivefarfromBala?
LAD。—Notveryfar,sir。
MYSELF。—Areyougoinghomenow?
LAD。—Iamnot,sir;ourhomeisontheothersideofBala。Iamgoingtoseearelationuptheroad。
MYSELF。—Balaisaniceplace。
LAD。—Itis,sir;butnotsofineasoldBala。
MYSELF。—Ineverheardofsuchaplace。Whereisit?
LAD。—Underthelake,sir。
MYSELF。—Whatdoyoumean?
LAD。—Itstoodintheoldtimewherethelakenowis,andafinecityitwas,fulloffinehouses,towers,andcastles,butwithneitherchurchnorchapel,forthepeopleneitherknewGodnorcaredforHim,andthoughtofnothingbutsinginganddancingandotherwickedthings。SoGodwasangrywiththem,andonenight,whentheywereallbusyatsinginganddancingandthelike,Godgavetheword,andthecitysankdownintoUnknown,andthelakeboiledupwhereitoncestood。
MYSELF。—Thatwasalongtimeago。
LAD。—Intruth,sir,itwas。
MYSELF。—BeforethedaysofKingCadwaladr。
LAD。—Idaresayitwas,sir。
Iwalkedfast,buttheladwasashrewdwalker,andthoughencumberedwithhisgreatcoatcontrivedtokeeptolerablyupwithme。Theroadwentoverhillanddale,butuponthewholemoreupwardthandownward。Afterproceedingaboutanhourandahalfweleftthelake,tothesouthernextremityofwhichwehadnearlycome,somewhatbehind,andboreawaytothesouth—east,graduallyascending。Atlengththelad,pointingtoasmallfarm—houseonthesideofahill,toldmehewasboundthither,andpresentlybiddingmefarewell,turnedasideupafootpathwhichledtowardsit。
Aboutaminuteafterwardsasmalldelicatefurredcreaturewithawhitemarkrounditsneckandwithalittletailtrailingonthegroundranswiftlyacrosstheroad。Itwasaweaselorsomethingofthatgenus;onobservingitIwasgladthattheladandthedogweregone,asbetweenthemtheywouldprobablyhavekilledit。I
hatetoseepoorwildanimalspersecutedandmurdered,losemyappetitefordinnerathearingthescreamsofaharepursuedbygreyhounds,andamsillyenoughtofeeldisgustandhorroratthesquealsofaratinthefangsofaterrier,whichoneofthesportingtribeoncetoldmewerethesweetestsoundsin"natur。"
Icrossedabridgeoveradeepgulleywhichdischargeditswatersintoariverinavalleyontheright。Arranroseingreatmajestyonthefarthersideofthisvale,itsheadpartlyshroudedinmist。
Thedaynowbecameconsiderablyovercast。IwanderedonovermuchroughgroundtillIcametoacollectionofhousesatthebottomofapassleadingupasteepmountain。SeeingthedoorofoneofthehousesopenIpeepedin,andawomanwhowassittingknittingintheinteriorroseandcameouttome。Iaskedthenameoftheplace。ThenamewhichshetoldmesoundedsomethinglikeTyCapelSaer—theHouseoftheChapeloftheCarpenter。Iinquiredthenameoftheriverinthevalley。Cynllwyd,hoary—headed,sheseemedtosay;buthere,aswellaswithrespecttoherfirstanswer,Ispeakundercorrection,forherWelshwaswhatmyoldfriends,theSpaniards,wouldcallmuycerrado,thatis,closeorindistinct。SheaskedmeifIwasgoingupthebwlch。ItoldherIwas。
"RatheryouthanI,"saidshe,lookinguptotheheavens,whichhadassumedaverydismal,nottosayawful,appearance。
PresentlyIbegantoascendthepassorbwlch,agreenhillonmyrightinterceptingtheviewofArran,anotherveryloftyhillonmyleftwithwoodtowardsthesummit。ComingtoalittlecottagewhichstoodontheleftIwenttothedoorandknocked。Asmilingyoungwomanopenedit,ofwhomIaskedthenameofthehouse。
"TyNant—theHouseoftheDingle,"shereplied。
"Doyoulivealone?"saidI。
"No;motherliveshere。"
"AnySaesneg?"
"No,"saidshewithasmile,"S’snegofnousehere。"
Herfacelookedthepictureofkindness。IwasnowindeedinWalesamongsttherealWelsh。Iwentonsomeway。Suddenlytherewasamoaningsound,andraincamedownintorrents。SeeingadesertedcottageonmyleftIwentin。Therewasfodderinit,anditappearedtoservepartlyasabarn,partlyasacow—house。Therainpouredupontheroof,andIwasgladIhadfoundshelter。
Closebehindthisplaceasmallbrookprecipitateditselfdownrocksinfoursuccessivefalls。
TherainhavingceasedIproceeded,andafteraconsiderabletimereachedthetopofthepass。FromthenceIhadaviewofthevalleyandlakeofBala,thelakelookinglikeanimmensesheetofsteel。Aroundhill,however,somewhatinterceptedtheviewofthelatter。Thesceneinmyimmediateneighbourhoodwasverydesolate;
mooryhillockswereallaboutmeofawretchedrussetcolour;onmyleft,ontheverycrestofthehillupwhichIhadsolongbeentoiling,stoodablackpyramidofturf,apoleonthetopofit。
Theroadnowworenearlyduewestdownasteepdescent。Arranwasslightlytothenorthofme。I,however,soonlostsightofit,asIwentdownthefarthersideofthehill,whichliesoveragainstittothesouth—east。Thesun,nowdescending,begantoshineout。
ThepassdownwhichIwasnowgoingwasyetwilderthantheoneupwhichIhadlatelycome。Closeonmyrightwasthesteephill’ssideoutofwhichtheroadorpathhadbeencut,whichwashereandthereoverhungbycragsofwondrousforms;onmyleftwasaverydeepglen,beyondwhichwasablack,precipitous,rockywall,fromachasmnearthetopofwhichtumbledwitharushingsoundaslenderbrook,seeminglythecommencementofamountainstream,whichhurriedintoavalleyfarbelowtowardsthewest。WhennearlyatthebottomofthedescentIstoodstilltolookaroundme。Grandandwildwasthescenery。Onmyleftwerenoblegreenhills,thetopsofwhichwerebeautifullygildedbytheraysofthesettingsun。Onmyrightablack,gloomy,narrowvalleyorglenshoweditself;twoenormouscraggyhillsofimmensealtitude,onetothewestandtheothertotheeastoftheentrance;thattotheeastterminatinginapeak。Thebackgroundtothenorthwasawallofrocksformingasemicircle,somethinglikeabentbowwiththeheaddownward;behindthisbow,justinthemiddle,rosetheblackloafofArran。Atorrenttumbledfromthelowerpartofthesemicircle,andafterrunningforsomedistancetothesouthturnedtothewest,thewayIwasgoing。
ObservingahousealittlewaywithinthegloomyvaleIwenttowardsit,inthehopeoffindingsomebodyinitwhocouldgivemeinformationrespectingthiswildlocality。AsIdrewnearthedoortwotallmencameforth,oneaboutsixty,andtheotherabouthalfthatage。Theelderhadasharp,keenlook;theyoungeralumpyandastupidone。Theyweredressedlikefarmers。OnmysalutingtheminEnglishtheelderreturnedmysalutationinthattongue,butinratheragrufftone。Theyoungerturnedawayhisheadandsaidnothing。
"Whatisthenameofthishouse?"saidI,pointingtothebuilding。
"Thenameofit,"saidtheoldman,"isTyMawr。"
"Doyouliveinit?"saidI。
"Yes,Iliveinit。"
"Whatwaterfallisthat?"saidI,pointingtothetorrenttumblingdownthecragatthefartherendofthegloomyvale。
"ThefountainoftheRoyalDyfi。"
"WhydoyoucalltheDyfyroyal?"saidI。
"Becauseitisthekingoftheriversintheseparts。"
"Doesthefountaincomeoutofarock?"
"Itdoesnot;itcomesoutofalake,allyn。"
"Whereisthellyn?"
"OverthatcragatthefootofAranVawr。"
"Isitalargelake?"
"Itisnot;itissmall。"
"Deep?"
"Very。"
"Strangethingsinit?"
"Ibelievetherearestrangethingsinit。"HisEnglishnowbecamebroken。
"Crocodiles?"
"Idonotknowwhatcracadailesbe。"
"Efync?"
"Ah!No,Idonottinktherebeefyncdere。HuGadarnindeoldtimekilldeefyncdereandinalldelakesinWales。Hedrawthemoutofthewaterwithhisychainbanoghishumptyoxen,andwhenhegetdemoutheburndeirbodiesondefire,hegoodmanfordat。"
"Whatdoyoucallthisallt?"saidI,lookinguptothehighpinnacledhillonmyright。
"IcallthatTapNythyrEryri。"
"Isnotthatthetopnestoftheeagles?"
"Ibelieveitis。Ha!IseeyouunderstandWelsh。"
"Alittle,"saidI。"Arethereeaglestherenow?"
"No,noeaglenow。"
"Gonelikeavanc?"
"Yes,gonelikeavanc,butnotsolong。MyfatherseeeagleonTapNyth,butmyfatherneverseeavancindellyn。"
"HowfartoDinas?"
"Aboutthreemile。"
"Anythievesabout?"
"No,nothieveshere,butwhatcomefromEngland,"andhelookedatmewithastrange,grimsmile。
"Whatisbecomeofthered—hairedrobbersofMawddwy?"
"Ah,"saidtheoldman,staringatme,"IseeyouareaCumro。Thered—hairedthievesofMawddwy!Iseeyouarefromtheseparts。"
"What’sbecomeofthem?"
"Oh,dead,hung。Livedlongtimeago;longbeforeeagleleftTapNyth。"
Hespoketrue。Thered—hairedbandittiofMawddwywereexterminatedlongbeforetheconclusionofthesixteenthcentury,afterhavinglongbeentheterrornotonlyofthesewildregionsbutofthegreaterpartofNorthWales。Theywerecalledthered—
hairedbandittibecausecertainleadingindividualsamongstthemhadredfoxyhair。
"Isthatyoungmanyourson?"saidI,afteralittlepause。
"Yes,hemyson。"
"HasheanyEnglish?"
"No,henoEnglish,butheplentyofWelsh—thatisifheseereason。"
IspoketotheyoungmaninWelsh,askinghimifhehadeverbeenuptotheTapNyth,buthemadenoanswer。
"Henocareforyourquestion,"saidtheoldman;"askhimpriceofpig。"Iaskedtheyoungfellowthepriceofhogs,whereuponhisfacebrightenedup,andhenotonlyansweredmyquestion,buttoldmethathehadfathogtosell。"Ha,ha,"saidtheoldman;"heplentyofWelshnow,forheseereason。TootherquestionhenoWelshatall,nomorethanEnglish,forheseenoreason。WhatbusinessheonTapNythwitheagle?Hisbusinessdownbelowinstywithpig。Ah,helooklump,buthenofool;knowmoreaboutpigthanyouorI,oranyone’twixthereandMahuncleth。"
HenowaskedmewhereIcamefrom,andonmytellinghimfromBala,hisheartappearedtowarmtowardsme,andsayingthatImustbetired,heaskedmetostepinanddrinkbuttermilk,butIdeclinedhisofferwiththanks,andbiddingthetwoadieu,returnedtotheroad。
Ihurriedalongandsoonreachedavalleywhichaboundedwithtreesandgrass;Icrossedabridgeoverabrook,notwhattheoldmanhadcalledtheDyfi,butthestreamwhosesourceIhadseenhighupthebwlch,andpresentlycametoaplacewherethetwowatersjoined。Justbelowtheconfluenceonafallentreewasseatedamandecentlydressed;hiseyeswerefixedontherushingstream。I
stoppedandspoketohim。
HehadnoEnglish,butIfoundhimaverysensibleman。ItalkedtohimaboutthesourceoftheDyfi。Hesaiditwasadisputedpointwhichwasthesource。HehimselfwasinclinedtobelievethatitwasthePistyllupthebwlch。Iaskedhimofwhatreligionhewas。HesaidhewasoftheChurchofEngland,whichwastheChurchofhisfatherandhisgrandfather,andwhichhebelievedtobetheonlytrueChurch。Iinquiredifitflourished。Hesaiditdid,butthatitwasdreadfullypersecutedbyallclassesofdissenters,who,thoughtheywerecontinuallyquarrellingwithoneanother,agreedinonething,namely,topersecutetheChurch。I