gavehim，thatheprachedasermonaboutmeinthechapel，inwhichhesaidthathehadcastsixofmydivilsoutofme，andshouldcastouttheseventh，whichwasthelast，bythenextSabbath，andthenshouldpresentmetothefolksinthechapelaspureavesselastheblessedMaryherself—andthatIwasdestinedtoaccomplishgreatthings，andtobeamightyinstrumentinthehandsoftheHolyChurch，forthatheintendedtowriteabookaboutme，describingthemiraclehehadperformedincastingthesevendivilsoutofme，whichheshouldgetprintedattheprinting—pressoftheblessedColumba，andshouldsendmethroughallIrelandtosellthecopies，theprofitsofwhichwouldgotowardsthesupportoftheholysocietyforcastingoutunclanespirits，towhichhehimselfbelonged。Well，thepeopleshowedthattheywereplasedbyaloudshout，andwentawaylongingforthenextSundaywhenIwastobepresentedtothemwithoutadivilinme。FivetimesthenextweekdidIgotothepriest’shouse，tobereadto，andbesprinkled，andhaveclothsputuponme，inorderthattheworkofcastingoutthelastdivil，whichitseemswasstrongerthanalltherest，mightbemadesmoothandaisy，andontheSaturdayIcametohavethelastdivilcastout，andfoundhisriverinceinfullcanonicals，seatedinhisaisychair。’Daughter，’saidhewhenhesawme，’theworkisnearlyover。Nowkneeldownbeforeme，andI
willmakethesignofthecrossoveryourforehead，andthenyouwillfeelthelastandstrongestofthedivils，whichhavesolongpossessedye，gooutofyethroughyoureyes，asIexpectyouwillsaytothepeopleassembledinthechapelto—morrow。’SoIputmyselfonmykneesbeforehisreverence，whoaftermutteringsomethingtohimself，eitherinLatinorShannaGailey—IbelieveitwasLatin，said，’Lookmeintheface，daughter！’Well，I
lookedhisreverenceintheface，andthereIsawhisnoselookingsolarge，red，andinvitingthatIcouldnotresistthetemptation，andbeforehisreverencecouldmakethesignofthecross，whichdoubtlesswouldhavedriventhediviloutofme，Imadeaspringatit，andseizingholdofitwithforefingerandthumb，pulledhardatit。Hotandinctiousdiditfeel。Oh，theyellthathisreverencegave！However，Ididnotletgomyhold，butkeptpullingatthenose，tillatlasttoavoidthetorment，hisreverencecametumblingdownuponme，causingmebyhisweighttofallbackuponthefloor。Attheyellwhichhegave，andatthenoiseofthefall，incamerushinghisreverence’shousekeeperandstable—boy，whoseeingusdownonthefloor，hisreverenceuponmeandmyhandholdinghisreverence’snose，forIfeltlothtoletitgo，theyremainedinastonishmentandsuspense。Whenhisreverence，however，beggedthem，fortheVirgin’ssake，toseparatehimfromthedivilofawoman，theyranforward，andhavingwithsomedifficultyfreedhisreverence’snosefrommyhand，theyhelpedhimup。Thefirstthingthathisreverencedid，onbeingplacedonhislegs，wastomakeforahorse—whip，whichstoodinonecorneroftheroom，butIguessinghowhemeanttouseit，sprangupfromthefloor，andbeforehecouldmakeacutatme，ranoutoftheroom，andhastedhome。Thenextday，whenallthepeoplefortwentymilesroundmetinthechapel，intheexpectationofseeingmepresentedtothemapurifiedandholyfemale，andhearingfrommymouththeaccountofthemiraclewhichhisreverencehadperformed，hisreverencemadehisappearanceinthepulpitwithadaleofgouldbater’sleafonhisnose，andfromthepulpithetoldthepeoplehowIhadusedhim，showingthemthegouldbater’sleafonhisfeature，astestimonyofthetruthofhiswords，finishingbysayingthatifatfirstthereweresevendevils，therewerenowseventimessevenwithinme。Well，whenthepeopleheardthestory，andsawhisnosewiththebater’sleafuponit，theyatfirstbegantolaugh，butwhenheappealedtotheirconsciences，andaskedthemifsuchwasfittingtratementforapraist，theysaiditwasnot，andthatifhewouldonlybutcurseme，theywouldsoondohimjusticeuponme。Hisreverencethencursedbybook，bell，andcandle，andthepeople，settingofffromthechapel，cameinacrowdtothehousewhereIlived，towrakevengeanceuponme。Overtakingmysonbytheway，whowascominghomeinastateofintoxication，theybatehimwithinaninchofhislife，andlefthimsenselessontheground，andnodoubtwouldhaveservedmemuchworse，onlyseeingthemcoming，andguessingwhattheycameabout，thoughIwasabitintoxicatedmyself，I
escapedbythebackofthehouseoutintothebog，whereIhidmyselfamidstacopseofhazels。Thepeoplecomingtothehouse，andnotfindingmethere，brokeanddestroyedeverybitoffurniture，andwouldhavepulledthehousedown，orsetfiretoit，hadnotanindividualamongthemcriedoutthatdoingsowouldbeofnouse，forthatthehousedidnotbelongtome，andthatdestroyingitwouldmerelybeaninjurytothenexttenant。Sothepeople，afterbreakingmyfurnitureandill—tratingtwoorthreedumbbeasts，whichhappenednottohavebeenmadeawaywith，wentaway，andinthedeadofnightIreturnedtothehouse，whereI
foundmyson，whohadjustcrawledhomecoveredwitbruises。Wehadn’t，however，ahomelong，fortheagentsofthelandlordcametoseizeforrent，tookalltheycouldfind，andturnedusoutuponthewideworld。Myselfandsonwanderedtogetherforanhourortwo，then，havingaquarrelwitheachother，weparted，hegoingonewayandIanother。SomelittletimeafterIheardthathewastransported。Asformyself，IthoughtImightaswelltakealeafoutofthewoman’sbookwhohadbeentheruinofme。SoIwentaboutbiddingpeoplegivemealmsforthegloryofGod，andthreateningthosewhogavemenothingthatthemassshouldnevercomfortthem。It’sadreadfulcursethat，honey；andIwouldadvisepeopletoavoiditeventhoughtheygiveawayalltheyhave。
Ifyouhavenocomfortinthemass，youwillhavecomfortinnothingelse。Lookatme：Ihavenocomfortinthemass，forassoonasthepriest’sbellrings，Ishoutsandhoorahs，andperformstumblingsbeforetheblessedcorpus，gettingmyselfkickedoutofchapel，andaslittlecomfortasIhaveinthemasshaveIinotherthings，whichshouldbeacomforttome。Ihavetwosonswhooughttobethegreatestcomforttome，butaretheyso？We’llsee—oneistransported，andofcourseisnocomforttomeatall。Theotherisasodger。Isheacomforttome？Notabit。AmonthagowhenIwastravellingthroughtheblacknorth，tumblingandtopplingabout，andthreateningpeoplewithmyprayer，unlesstheygavemealms，awoman，whoknewme，toldmethathewaswithhisregimentatCardiff，hereinWales，whereuponIdeterminedtogoandseehim，andcrossingthewatergotintoEngland，fromwhenceI
walkedtoCardiffaskingalmsoftheEnglishinthecommonEnglishway，andoftheIrish，andyearethefirstIrishIhavemet，inthewayinwhichIaskedthemofyou。ButwhenIgottoCardiffdidIseemyson？Ididnot，forthedaybeforehehadsailedwithhisregimenttoaplacetenthousandmilesaway，soIshallneverseehisfaceagainnorderivecomfortfromhim。Oh，ifthere’snocomfortfromthemassthere’snocomfortfromanythingelse，andhewhohastheevilprayerintheShannaGaileybreatheduponhim，willhavenocomfortfromthemass。Now，honey，yehaveheardthestoryofJohannaColgan，thebedivilledwoman。Givehernowadacentalmsandlethergo！"
"Wouldyouconsidersixpenceadecentalms？"
"Iwould。Ifyougivemesixpence，Iwillnotsaymyprayeroverye。"
"Wouldyougivemeablessing？"
"Iwouldnot。Abedivilledwomanhasnoblessingtogive。"
"SurelyifyouareabletoaskpeopletogiveyoualmsforthegloryofGod，youareabletogiveablessing。"
"Bodderation！areyegoingtogivemesixpence？"
"No！here’sashillingforyou！Takeitandgoinpeace。"
"There’snopaceforme，"saidJohannaColgan，takingthemoney。
"Whatdidthemonstrousfemalesaytome？’Biaidhantaifrionngansholasduitabheanshalach。’（23）Thisismypace—hoorah！
hoorah！"thengivingtwoorthreegrotesquetopplesshehurriedawayinthedirectionofMerthyrTydvil。
CHAPTERCVI
PenyGlas—SaltoftheEarth—TheQuakers’Yard—TheRhugylgroen。
ASIproceededonmywaythescenerytothesouthonthefarthersideoftheriverbecamesurprisinglybeautiful。Onthatsidenoblemountainsmettheview，greenfieldsandmajesticwoods，thelatterbrownitistrue，fortheirleavesweregone，butnotthelessmajesticforbeingbrown。Hereandtherewerewhitefarm—
houses：oneofthem，whichIwastoldwascalledPenyGlas，wasatrulylovelylittleplace。Itstoodonthesideofagreenhillwithanobleforestaboveit，andputmewonderfullyinmindofthehuntinglodge，whichIforHaelallottedasaretreattoAbGwilymandMorfydd，whentheyfledtohimfromCardigantoavoidtherageoftheBowBach，andwhosecharmingappearancemadehimsaytohislove：—
"MoreblissforusourfatepropoundsOnTaf’sgreenbanksthanTeivy’sbounds。"
OnIwandered。Aftersometimethevalleyassumedtheformofanimmensebasin，enormousmountainscomposeditssides。Inthemiddlerosehillsofsomealtitude，butcompletelyovercrownedbythemountainsaround。Thesehillsexhibitedpleasantinclosures，andwerebeautifullydottedwithwhitefarm—houses。DownbelowmeanderedtheTaf，itsreachesshiningwithasilver—likesplendour。Thewholetogetherformedanexquisitepicture，inwhichtherewasmuchsublimity，muchstillquietlife，andnotalittleoffantasticfairyloveliness。
ThesunwashasteningtowardsthewestasIpassedalittlecascadeontheleft，thewatersofwhich，afterrunningundertheroad，tumbleddownagullyintotheriver。ShortlyafterwardsmeetingamanIaskedhimhowfaritwastoCaerfili。
"WhenyoucometotheQuakers’Yard，whichisalittlewayfurtheron，youwillbesevenmilesfromCaerfili。"
"WhatistheQuakers’Yard？"
"AplacewherethepeoplecalledQuakersburytheirdead。"
"Isthereavillagenearit？
"Thereis，andthevillageiscalledbythesamename。"
"ArethereanyQuakersinit？"
"Notone，norintheneighbourhood，buttherearesome，Ibelieve，inCardiff。"
"Whydotheyburytheirdeadthere？"
"Youshouldaskthem，notme。Iknownothingaboutthem，anddon’twant；theyareabadsetofpeople。"
"Didtheyeverdoyouanyharm？"
"Can’tsaytheydid。IndeedIneversawoneinthewholeofmylife。"
"Thenwhydoyoucallthembad？"
"Becauseeverybodysaystheyare。"
"Noteverybody。Idon’t；Ihavealwaysfoundthemthesaltoftheearth。"
"Thenitissaltthathaslostitssavour。Butperhapsyouareoneofthem？"
"No，IbelongtotheChurchofEngland。"
"Oh，youdo。Thengood—nighttoyou。IamaMethodist。Ithoughtatfirstthatyouwereoneofourministers，andhadhopedtohearfromyousomethingprofitableandconducivetosalvation，but—"
"Well，soyoushall。Neverspeakillofpeopleofwhomyouknownothing。Ifthatisn’tasayingconducivetosalvation，Iknownotwhatis。Goodeveningtoyou。"
Isoonreachedthevillage。Singularenough，thepeopleoftheveryfirsthouse，atwhichIinquiredabouttheQuakers’Yard，wereentrustedwiththecareofit。Onmyexpressingawishtoseeit，ayoungwomantookdownakey，andsaidthatifIwouldfollowhershewouldshowitme。TheQuakers’burying—placeissituatedonalittlepeninsulaortongueofland，havingabrookonitseasternandnorthernsides，andonitswesterntheTaf。Itisalittleoblongyard，withlowwalls，partlyoverhungwithivy。Theentranceisaporchtothesouth。TheQuakersarenofriendstotombstones，andtheonlyvisibleevidencethatthiswasaplaceofburialwasasingleflag—stone，withahalf—obliteratedinscription，whichwithsomedifficultyIdeciphered，andwasasfollows：—
TotheMemoryofTHOMASEDMUNDS
WhodiedApriltheninth1802aged60years。
AndofMARYEDMUNDS
WhodiedJanuarythefourth1810aged70。
ThebeamsofthedescendingsungildedtheQuakers’burial—groundasItroditsprecincts。Alovelyresting—placelookedthatlittleoblongyardonthepeninsula，bytheconfluenceofthewaters，andquiteinkeepingwiththecharacterofthequietChristianpeoplewhosleepwithinit。TheQuakershaveforsometimepastbeenadecayingsect，buttheyhavedonegoodworkintheirday，andwhentheyareextincttheyarenotdestinedtobesoonforgotten。Soonforgotten！Howshouldasecteverbeforgotten，towhichhavebelongedthreesuchmenasGeorgeFox，WilliamPenn，andJosephGurney？
ShortlyafterIlefttheQuakers’Yardthesunwentdownandtwilightsettledupontheearth。PursuingmycourseIreachedsomewoodlands，andoninquiringofaman，whomIsawstandingatthedoorofacottage，thenameofthedistrict，wastoldthatitwascalledYstradManach—theMonks’Strathorvalley。Thisnameitprobablyacquiredfromhavingbelongedintimesofoldtosomemonkishestablishment。Themoonnowaroseandthenightwasdelightful。AsIwaswanderingalongIheardagainthesamewildnoisewhichIhadheardthenightbefore，ontheothersideofMerthyrTydvil。Thecryoftheowlafaroffinthewoodlands。Ohthatstrangebird！Ohthatstrangecry！TheWelsh，asIhavesaidonaformeroccasion，calltheowlDylluan。AmongstthecowyddsofAbGwilymthereisonetothedylluan。Itisfullofabuseagainstthebird，withwhomthepoetisveryangryforhavingwithitscryfrightenedMorfyddback，whowascomingtothewoodtokeepanassignationwithhim，butnotalittleofthisabuseiswonderfullyexpressiveandtruthful。Hecallstheowlagreythief—thehaunteroftheivybush—thechickoftheoak，ablinkingeyedwitch，greedyofmice，withavisagelikethebaldforeheadofabigram，orthedirtyfaceofanoldabbess，whichbearsnolittleresemblancetothechineofanape。Ofitscryhesaysthatitisasgreatatormentasanagonizingrecollection，acoldshrilllaughfromthemidstofakettleofice；therattlingofsea—
pebblesinanoldsheep—skin，onwhichaccountmanycalltheowlthehagoftheRhugylgroen。TheRhugylgroen，itwillbeaswelltoobserve，isadrysheepskincontaininganumberofpebbles，andisusedasarattleforfrighteningcrows。Thelikeningthevisageoftheowltothedirtyfaceofanoldabbessiscapital，andthelikeningthecrytothenoiseoftherhugylgroenisanythingbutunfortunate。For，afterall，whatdoesthevoiceoftheowlsomuchresembleasadiabolicalrattle。I’msureIdon’tknow。
Reader，doyou？
IreachedCaerfiliataboutseveno’clock，andwenttothe"Boar’sHead，"neartheruinsofastupendouscastle，onwhichthebeamsofthemoonwerefalling。
CHAPTERCVII
CaerfiliCastle—SirCharles—TheWaiter—Inkerman。
ISLEPTwellduringthenight。InthemorningafterbreakfastI
wenttoseethecastle，overwhichIwasconductedbyawomanwhowasintrustedwithitscare。Itstandsontheeasternsideofthelittletown，andisatrulyenormousstructure，whichbroughttomyrecollectionasayingofourgreatJohnson，tobefoundintheaccountofhisjourneytotheWesternIslands，namely"thatforallthecastleswhichhehadseenbeyondtheTweedtheruinsyetremainingofsomeoneofthosewhichtheEnglishbuiltinWaleswouldfindmaterials。"TheoriginalfounderwasoneJohnDeBryse，apowerfulNormanwhomarriedthedaughterofLlewellynApJorwerth，theson—in—lawofKingJohn，andthemostwar—likeofalltheWelshprinces，whoseexploits，andparticularlyavictorywhichheobtainedoverhisfather—in—law，withwhomhewasalwaysatwar，havebeenimmortalizedbythegreatwar—bard，DafyddBenfras。ItwasoneofthestrongholdswhichbelongedtotheSpencers，andservedforashorttimeasaretreattotheunfortunateEdwardtheSecond。ItwasruinedbyCromwell，thegrandfoeofthebaronialcastlesofBritain，butnotinsothoroughandsweepingamannerastoleaveitamereheapofstones。Thereisanobleentranceporchfrontingthewest—aspaciouscourtyard，agrandbanquetingroom，acorridorofvastlength，severalloftytowers，achapel，asally—
port，aguard—roomandastrangeundergroundvaultedplacecalledthemint，inwhichCaerfili’sbaronsoncecoinedmoney，andinwhichthefurnacesstillexistwhichwereusedformeltingmetal。
ThenameCaerfiliissaidtosignifytheCastleofHaste，andtohavebeenbestowedonthepilebecauseitwasbuiltinahurry。
Caerfili，however，wasneverbuiltinahurry，astheremainsshow。
Moreover，theWelshwordforhasteisnotfilbutffrwst。Filmeansascuddingordartingthroughtheair，whichcanhavenothingtodowiththebuildingofacastle。CaerfilisignifiesPhilip’sCity，andwascalledsoafteronePhilipasaint。ItnomoremeansthecastleofhastethanTintagelinCornwallsignifiesthecastleofguile，asthelearnedhavesaiditdoes，forTintagelsimplymeansthehouseinthegillofthehill，atermadmirablydescriptiveofthesituationofthebuilding。
IstartedfromCaerfiliatelevenforNewport，distantaboutseventeenmiles。Passingthroughatoll—gateIascendedanacclivity，fromthetopofwhichIobtainedafullviewofthecastle，lookingstern，darkandmajestic。DescendingthehillI
cametoabridgeoverarivercalledtheRhymniorRumney，muchcelebratedinWelshandEnglishsong—thencetoPentrefBettws，orthevillageofthebead—house，doubtlesssocalledfromitshavingcontainedinoldtimesahouseinwhichpilgrimsmighttelltheirbeads。
Thescenerysoonbecameverybeautiful—itsbeauty，however，wastoacertainextentmarredbyahorridblackobject，ahugecoalwork，thechimneysofwhichwerebelchingforthsmokeofthedensestdescription。"Whomdoesthatworkbelongto？"saidItoamannearlyasblackasachimneysweep。
"Whodoesitbelongto？Why，toSirCharles。"
"DoyoumeanSirCharlesMorgan？"
"Idon’tknow。IonlyknowthatitbelongstoSirCharles，thekindest—heartedandrichestmaninWalesandinEnglandtoo。"
PassingsomecottagesIheardagroupofchildrenspeakingEnglish。
Askedanintelligent—lookinggirlifshecouldspeakWelsh。
"Yes，"saidshe，"Icanspeakit，butnotverywell。"ThereisnotmuchWelshspokenbythechildrenhereabout。Theoldfolksholdmoretoit。
IsawagaintheRhymniriver，andcrosseditbyabridge；theriverherewasfilthyandturbid，owingofcoursetoitshavingreceivedthefouldrainingsoftheneighbouringcoalworks。ShortlyafterwardsIemergedfromthecoomorvalleyoftheRhymni，andentereduponafertileandtolerablyleveldistrict。PassedbyLlanawstandMachen。Thedaywhichhadbeenveryfinenowbecamedarkandgloomy。Suddenly，asIwasdescendingaslope，abrilliantparty，consistingoffouryoungladiesinriding—habits，ayouthfulcavalierandaservantinsplendidlivery—allonnoblehorses，sweptpastmeatfullgallopdownthehill。Almostimmediatelyafterwards，seeingaroad—menderwhowasstandingholdinghiscapinhishand—whichhehadnodoubtjustreverentiallydoffed—IsaidinWelsh："Whoarethoseladies？"
"MerchedSirCharles—thedaughtersofSirCharles，"hereplied。
"Andisthegentlemantheirbrother？"
"No！thebrotherisintheCrim—fightingwiththeRoosiaid。I
don’tknowwhoyongentlemanbe。"
"WheredoesSirCharleslive？"
"DownintheDyfryn，notfarfromBasallaig。"
"IfIweretogoandseehim，"Isaid，"doyouthinkhewouldgivemeacupofale？"
"Idaresayhewould；hehasgivenmeonemanyatime。"
IsoonreachedBasallaig，apleasantvillagestandinginavalleyandnearlysurroundedbythegrovesofSirCharlesMorgan。Seeingadecentpublic—houseIsaidtomyself，"IthinkIshallstepinandhavemyalehere，andnotgorunningafterSirCharles，whomperhapsafterallIshouldn’tfindathome。"SoIwentinandcalledforapintofale。OvermyaleItrifledforabouthalf—an—
hour，thenpayingmygroatIgotupandsetoffforNewport，inthemidstofathickmistwhichhadsuddenlycomeon，andwhichspeedilywettedmenearlytotheskin。
IreachedNewportatabouthalf—pastfour，andputupatalargeandhandsomeinncalledtheKing’sHead。Duringdinnerthewaiter，unasked，relatedtomehishistory。Hewasashortthickfellowofaboutforty，withaverydisturbedandfrightenedexpressionofcountenance。HesaidthathewasanativeofBrummagen，andhadlivedveryhappilyataninnthereaswaiter，butatlengthhadallowedhimselftobespiritedawaytoanestablishmenthighupinWalesamidstthescenery。Thatveryfewvisitorscametotheestablishment，whichwasinaplacesoawfullylonesomethathesoonbecamehipped，andwasmorethanoncehalfinamindtoflinghimselfintoariverwhichranbeforethedoorandmoaneddismally。
Thatatlasthethoughthisbestplanwouldbetodecamp，andaccordinglytookFrenchleaveearlyonemorning。ThataftermanyfrightsandmuchfatiguehehadfoundhimselfatNewport，andtakenserviceattheKing’sHead，butdidnotfeelcomfortable，andwasfrequentlyvisitedatnightbydreadfuldreams。ThatheshouldtakethefirstopportunityofgettingtoBrummagen，thoughhewasafraidthatheshouldnotbeabletogetintohisformerplace，owingtohisungratefulbehaviour。Hethenutteredarathereloquenteulogiumonthebeautiesoftheblackcapital，andwoundupallbysayingthathewouldratherbeabrazier’sdogatBrummagenthanheadwaiteratthebestestablishmentinWales。
AfterdinnerItookupanewspaperandfoundinitanaccountofthebattleofInkerman，whichappearedtohavebeenfoughtonthefifthofNovember，theverydayonwhichIhadascendedPlynlimmon。
Iwassorrytofindthatmycountrymenhadsuffereddreadfully，andwouldhavebeenutterlydestroyedbutfortheopportunearrivaloftheFrench。"Inmychildhood，"saidI，"theRussiansusedtohelpusagainsttheFrench；nowtheFrenchhelpusagainsttheRussians。
WhoknowsbutbeforeIdieImayseetheRussianshelpingtheFrenchagainstus？"
CHAPTERCVIII
TownofNewport—TheUsk—NoteofRecognition—AnOldAcquaintance—ConnamaraQuean—TheWake—TheWildIrish—TheTrampingLife—BusinessandPrayer—Methodists—GoodCounsel。
NEWPORTisalargetowninMonmouthshire，andhadoncewallsandacastle。ItiscalledinWelshCasNewyddarWysg，ortheNewCastleupontheUsk。ItstandssomemilesbelowCaerlleonarWysg，andwasprobablybuiltwhenthatplace，atonetimeoneofthemostconsiderabletownsinBritain，begantofallintodecay。TheWysgorUskhasitssourceamongsomewildhillsinthesouth—westofBreconshire，and，afterabsorbingseveralsmallerstreams，amongstwhichistheHondu，atthemouthofwhichBreconstands，whichonthataccountiscalledinWelshAberHondu，andtraversingthewholeofMonmouthshire，enterstheBristolChannelnearNewport，towhichplacevesselsofconsiderableburdencanascend。WysgorUskisanancientBritishword，signifyingwater，andisthesameastheIrishworduisgeorwhiskey，forwhiskey，thoughgenerallyservingtodenoteaspirituousliquor，ingreatvogueamongsttheIrish，meanssimplywater。Thepropertermforthespiritisuisquebaugh，literallyacquavitae，butthecompoundbeingabbreviatedbytheEnglish，whohavealwaysbeennotoriousfortheirhabitofclippingwords，oneofthestrongestofspiritsisnowgenerallydenominatedbyawordwhichisproperlyexpressiveofthesimpleelementwater。
MonmouthshireisatpresentconsideredanEnglishcounty，thoughcertainlywithlittlereason，foritnotonlystandsonthewesternsideoftheWye，butthenamesofalmostallitsparishesareWelsh，andmanythousandsofitspopulationstillspeaktheWelshlanguage。ItiscalledinWelshSir，orShire，Fynwy，andtakesitsnamefromthetownMynwyorMonmouth，whichreceivesitsownappellationfromtheriverMynwyorMinno，onwhichitstands。
Thereisariverofmuchthesamename，notinMacedonbutinthePeninsula，namelytheMinho，whichprobablygotitsdenominationfromthatracecognatetotheCumry，theGael，whowerethefirstcolonisersofthePeninsula，andwhosegenericnameyetstaresusinthefaceandsalutesourearsinthewordsGaliciaandPortugal。
IleftNewportataboutteno’clockonthe16th；theroadswereverywet，therehavingbeenadelugeofrainduringthenight。ThemorningwasaregularNovemberone，dullandgloomy。DesirousofknowingwhereaboutsinthesepartstheWelshlanguageceased，I
interrogatedseveralpeoplewhomImet。FirstspoketoEstherWilliams。ShetoldmeshecamefromPennow，somemilesfartheron，thatshecouldspeakWelsh，andthatindeedallthepeoplecouldforatleasteightmilestotheeastofNewport。Thislatterassertionofherswas，however，anythingbutcorroboratedbyayoungwoman，withapitcheronherhead，whomIshortlyafterwardsmet，forsheinformedmethatshecouldspeaknoWelsh，andthatforonewhocouldspeakit，fromwhereIwastotheplacewhereitceasedaltogether，thereweretenwhocouldnot。IbelievetherealfactisthatabouthalfthepeopleforsevenoreightmilestotheeastofNewportspeakWelsh，moreorless，asabouthalfthosewhomImetandaddressedinWelsh，answeredmeinthattongue。