Whenwehadgoneabouttwohundredyards，andstoppedtorest，IglancedtotheleftwhileIwaslightingmypipe，andinthedistancedetectedalongwormofblacksmokecrawlinglazilyupthesteepmountain。Ofcoursethatwasthelocomotive。Weproppedourselvesonourelbowsatonce，togaze，forwehadneverseenamountainrailwayyet。
Presentlywecouldmakeoutthetrain。Itseemedincrediblethatthatthingshouldcreepstraightupasharpslantliketheroofofahouse——butthereitwas，anditwasdoingthatverymiracle。
Inthecourseofacouplehourswereachedafinebreezyaltitudewherethelittleshepherdhutshadbigstonesallovertheirroofstoholdthemdowntotheearthwhenthegreatstormsrage。Thecountrywaswildandrockyabouthere，buttherewereplentyoftrees，plentyofmoss，andgrass。
Awayoffontheoppositeshoreofthelakewecouldseesomevillages，andnowforthefirsttimewecouldobservetherealdifferencebetweentheirproportionsandthoseofthegiantmountainsatwhosefeettheyslept。
Whenoneisinoneofthosevillagesitseemsspacious，anditshousesseemhighandnotoutofproportiontothemountainthatoverhandsthem——butfromouraltitude，whatachange!Themountainswerebiggerandgranderthanever，astheystoodtherethinkingtheirsolemnthoughtswiththeirheadsinthedriftingclouds，butthevillagesattheirfeet——whenthepainstakingeyecouldtracethemupandfindthem——weresoreduced，almostinvisible，andlaysoflatagainsttheground，thattheexactestsimileIcandeviseistocomparethemtoant-depositsofgranulateddirtovershadowedbythehugebulkofacathedral。Thesteamboatsskimmingalongunderthestupendousprecipiceswerediminishedbydistancetothedaintiestlittletoys，thesailboatsandrowboatstoshallopsproperforfairiesthatkeephouseinthecupsofliliesandridetocourtonthebacksofbumblebees。
Presentlywecameuponhalfadozensheepnibblinggrassinthesprayofastreamofclearwaterthatsprangfromarockwallahundredfeethigh，andallatonceourearswerestartledwithamelodious"Lul……
l……lllllul-lul-LAhee-o-o-o!"pealingjoyouslyfromanearbutinvisiblesource，andrecognizedthatwewerehearingforthefirsttimethefamousAlpineJODEL
initsownnativewilds。Andwerecognized，also，thatitwasthatsortofquaintcomminglingofbaritoneandfalsettowhichathomewecall"Tyrolesewarbling。"
ThejodelingpronouncedyOdling——emphasisontheO
continued，andwasverypleasantandinspiritingtohear。
Nowthejodelerappeared——ashepherdboyofsixteen——
andinourgladnessandgratitudewegavehimafranctojodelsomemore。Sohejodeledandwelistened。
Wemovedon，presently，andhegenerouslyjodeledusoutofsight。Afteraboutfifteenminuteswecameacrossanothershepherdboywhowasjodeling，andgavehimhalfafranctokeepitup。Healsojodeledusoutofsight。
Afterthat，wefoundajodelereverytenminutes；
wegavethefirstoneeightcents，thesecondonesixcents，thethirdonefour，thefourthoneapenny，contributednothingtoNos。5，6，and7，andduringtheremainderofthedayhiredtherestofthejodelers，atafrancapiece，nottojodelanymore。ThereissomewhattoomuchofthejodelingintheAlps。
AboutthemiddleoftheafternoonwepassedthroughaprodigiousnaturalgatewaycalledtheFelsenthor，formedbytwoenormousuprightrocks，withathirdlyingacrossthetop。Therewasaveryattractivelittlehotelcloseby，butourenergieswerenotconqueredyet，sowewenton。
Threehoursafterwardwecametotherailway-track。Itwasplantedstraightupthemountainwiththeslantofaladderthatleansagainstahouse，anditseemedtousthatmanwouldneedgoodnerveswhoproposedtotravelupitordowniteither。
Duringthelatterpartoftheafternoonwecooledourroastinginteriorswithice-coldwaterfromclearstreams，theonlyreallysatisfyingwaterwehadtastedsincewelefthome，foratthehotelsonthecontinenttheymerelygiveyouatumbleroficetosoakyourwaterin，andthatonlymodifiesitshotness，doesn'tmakeitcold。
Watercanonlybemadecoldenoughforsummercomfortbybeingpreparedinarefrigeratororaclosedice-pitcher。
Europeanssayice-waterimpairsdigestion。Howdotheyknow?——theyneverdrinkany。
AttenminutespastsixwereachedtheKaltbadstation，wherethereisaspacioushotelwithgreatverandaswhichcommandamajesticexpanseoflakeandmountainscenery。
Wewereprettywellfaggedout，now，butaswedidnotwishtomisstheAlpinesunrise，wegotthroughourdinnerasquicklyaspossibleandhurriedofftobed。
Itwasunspeakablycomfortabletostretchourwearylimbsbetweenthecool，dampsheets。Andhowwedidsleep!——forthereisnoopiatelikeAlpinepedestrianism。
Inthemorningwebothawokeandleapedoutofbedatthesameinstantandranandstrippedasidethewindow-curtains；
butwesufferedabitterdisappointmentagain:itwasalreadyhalfpastthreeintheafternoon。
Wedressedsullenlyandinillspirits，eachaccusingtheotherofoversleeping。Harrissaidifwehadbroughtthecourieralong，asweoughttohavedone，weshouldnothavemissedthesesunrises。Isaidheknewverywellthatoneofuswouldhavetositupandwakethecourier；
andIaddedthatwewerehavingtroubleenoughtotakecareofourselves，onthisclimb，withouthavingtotakecareofacourierbesides。
Duringbreakfastourspiritscameupalittle，sincewefoundbythisguide-bookthatinthehotelsonthesummitthetouristisnotlefttotrusttoluckforhissunrise，butisrousedbetimesbyamanwhogoesthroughthehallswithagreatAlpinehorn，blowingblaststhatwouldraisethedead。Andtherewasanotherconsolingthing:
theguide-booksaidthatupthereonthesummittheguestsdidnotwaittodressmuch，butseizedaredbedblanketandsailedoutarrayedlikeanIndian。Thiswasgood；
thiswouldberomantic；twohundredandfiftypeoplegroupedonthewindysummit，withtheirhairflyingandtheirredblanketsflapping，inthesolemnpresenceofthecomingsun，wouldbeastrikingandmemorablespectacle。
Soitwasgoodluck，notillluck，thatwehadmissedthoseothersunrises。
Wewereinformedbytheguide-bookthatwewerenow3，228feetabovethelevelofthelake——thereforefulltwo-thirdsofourjourneyhadbeenaccomplished。
Wegotawayataquarterpastfour，P。M。；ahundredyardsabovethehoteltherailwaydivided；onetrackwentstraightupthesteephill，theotheroneturnedsquareofftotheright，withaveryslightgrade。Wetookthelatter，andfolloweditmorethanamile，turnedarockycorner，andcameinsightofahandsomenewhotel。
Ifwehadgoneon，weshouldhavearrivedatthesummit，butHarrispreferredtoaskalotofquestions——asusual，ofamanwhodidn'tknowanything——andhetoldustogobackandfollowtheotherroute。Wedidso。Wecouldillaffordthislossoftime。
Weclimbedandclimbed；andwekeptonclimbing；wereachedaboutfortysummits，buttherewasalwaysanotheronejustahead。
Itcameontorain，anditrainedindeadearnest。
Weweresoakedthroughanditwasbittercold。Nextasmokyfogofcloudscoveredthewholeregiondensely，andwetooktotherailway-tiestokeepfromgettinglost。
Sometimeswesloppedalonginanarrowpathontheleft-handsideofthetrack，butbyandbywhenthefogblewasasidealittleandwesawthatweweretreadingtherampartofaprecipiceandthatourleftelbowswereprojectingoveraperfectlyboundlessandbottomlessvacancy，wegasped，andjumpedforthetiesagain。
Thenightshutdown，darkanddrizzlyandcold。
Abouteightintheeveningthefogliftedandshowedusawell-wornpathwhichledupaverysteeprisetotheleft。
Wetookit，andassoonaswehadgotfarenoughfromtherailwaytorenderthefindingitagainanimpossibility，thefogshutdownonusoncemore。
Wewereinableak，unshelteredplace，now，andhadtotrudgerightalong，inordertokeepwarm，thoughweratherexpectedtogooveraprecipice，soonerorlater。
Aboutnineo'clockwemadeanimportantdiscovery——
thatwewerenotinanypath。Wegropedaroundawhileonourhandsandknees，butwecouldnotfindit；
sowesatdowninthemudandthewetscantgrasstowait。
Wewereterrifiedintothisbybeingsuddenlyconfrontedwithavastbodywhichshoweditselfvaguelyforaninstantandinthenextinstantwassmotheredinthefogagain。
Itwasreallythehotelwewereafter，monstrouslymagnifiedbythefog，butwetookitforthefaceofaprecipice，anddecidednottotrytoclawupit。
Wesatthereanhour，withchatteringteethandquiveringbodies，andquarreledoverallsortsoftrifles，butgavemostofourattentiontoabusingeachotherforthestupidityofdesertingtherailway-track。Wesatwithourbackstotheprecipice，becausewhatlittlewindtherewascamefromthatquarter。Atsometimeorotherthefogthinnedalittle；wedidnotknowwhen，forwewerefacingtheemptyuniverseandthethinnesscouldnotshow；
butatlastHarrishappenedtolookaround，andtherestoodahuge，dim，spectralhotelwheretheprecipicehadbeen。
Onecouldfaintlydiscernthewindowsandchimneys，andadullbluroflights。Ourfirstemotionwasdeep，unutterablegratitude，ournextwasafoolishrage，bornofthesuspicionthatpossiblythehotelhadbeenvisiblethree-quartersofanhourwhilewesatthereinthosecoldpuddlesquarreling。
Yes，itwastheRigi-Kulmhotel——theonethatoccupiestheextremesummit，andwhoseremotelittlesparkleoflightswehadoftenseenglintinghighaloftamongthestarsfromourbalconyawaydownyonderinLucerne。
Thecrustyportierandthecrustyclerksgaveusthesurlyreceptionwhichtheirkinddealoutinprosperoustimes，butbymollifyingthemwithanextradisplayofobsequiousnessandservilitywefinallygotthemtoshowustotheroomwhichourboyhadengagedforus。
Wegotintosomedryclothing，andwhileoursupperwaspreparingweloafedforsakenlythroughacoupleofvastcavernousdrawing-rooms，oneofwhichhadastoveinit。
Thisstovewasinacorner，anddenselywalledaroundwithpeople。Wecouldnotgetnearthefire，sowemovedatlargeinthearticspaces，amongamultitudeofpeoplewhosatsilent，smileless，forlorn，andshivering——thinkingwhatfoolstheyweretocome，perhaps。ThereweresomeAmericansandsomeGermans，butonecouldseethatthegreatmajoritywereEnglish。
Weloungedintoanapartmentwheretherewasagreatcrowd，toseewhatwasgoingon。Itwasamemento-magazine。
Thetouristswereeagerlybuyingallsortsandstylesofpaper-cutters，marked"SouveniroftheRigi，"withhandlesmadeofthelittlecurvedhornoftheostensiblechamois；
therewereallmannerofwoodengobletsandsuchthings，similarlymarked。Iwasgoingtobuyapaper-cutter，butI
believedIcouldrememberthecoldcomfortoftheRigi-Kulmwithoutit，soIsmotheredtheimpulse。
Supperwarmedus，andwewentimmediatelytobed——butfirst，asMr。Baedekerrequestsalltouriststocallhisattentiontoanyerrorswhichtheymayfindinhisguide-books，I
droppedhimalinetoinformhimhemisseditbyjustaboutthreedays。IhadpreviouslyinformedhimofhismistakeaboutthedistancefromAllerheiligentoOppenau，andhadalsoinformedtheOrdnanceDepartoftheGermangovernmentofthesameerrorintheimperialmaps。
Iwilladd，here，thatInevergotanyanswertothoseletters，oranythanksfromeitherofthosesources；and，whatisstillmorediscourteous，thesecorrectionshavenotbeenmade，eitherinthemapsortheguide-books。ButIwillwriteagainwhenIgettime，formylettersmayhavemiscarried。
Wecurledupintheclammybeds，andwenttosleepwithoutrocking。
WeweresosoddenwithfatiguethatweneverstirrednorturnedovertillthebloomingblastsoftheAlpinehornarousedus。Itmaywellbeimaginedthatwedidnotloseanytime。Wesnatchedonafewoddsandendsofclothing，cocoonedourselvesintheproperredblankets，andplungedalongthehallsandoutintothewhistlingwindbareheaded。
Wesawatallwoodenscaffoldingontheverypeakofthesummit，ahundredyardsaway，andmadeforit。
Werushedupthestairstothetopofthisscaffolding，andstoodthere，abovethevastoutlyingworld，withhairflyingandruddyblanketswavingandcrackinginthefiercebreeze。
"Fifteenminutestoolate，atlast!"saidHarris，inavexedvoice。"Thesunisclearabovethehorizon。"
"Nomatter，"Isaid，"itisamostmagnificentspectacle，andwewillseeitdotherestofitsrisinganyway。"
Inamomentweweredeeplyabsorbedinthemarvelbeforeus，anddeadtoeverythingelse。Thegreatcloud-barreddiskofthesunstoodjustabovealimitlessexpanseoftossingwhite-caps——sotospeak——abillowychaosofmassymountaindomesandpeaksdrapedinimperishablesnow，andfloodedwithanopalinegloryofchanginganddissolvingsplendors，whilethroughriftsinablackcloud-bankabovethesun，radiatinglancesofdiamonddustshottothezenith。
Theclovenvalleysofthelowerworldswaminatintedmistwhichveiledtheruggednessoftheircragsandribsandraggedforests，andturnedalltheforbiddingregionintoasoftandrichandsensuousparadise。
Wecouldnotspeak。Wecouldhardlybreathe。
Wecouldonlygazeindrunkenecstasyanddrinkinit。
PresentlyHarrisexclaimed:
"Why——nation，it'sgoingDOWN!"
Perfectlytrue。WehadmissedtheMORNINGhornblow，andsleptallday。Thiswasstupefying。
Harrissaid:
"Lookhere，thesunisn'tthespectacle——it'sUS——stackeduphereontopofthisgallows，intheseidioticblankets，andtwohundredandfiftywell-dressedmenandwomendownheregawkingupatusandnotcaringastrawwhetherthesunrisesorsets，aslongasthey'vegotsucharidiculousspectacleasthistosetdownintheirmemorandum-books。
Theyseemtobelaughingtheirribsloose，andthere'sonegirlthereatappearstobegoingalltopieces。
Ineversawsuchamanasyoubefore。Ithinkyouaretheverylastpossibilityinthewayofanass。"
"Whathave_I_done?"Ianswered，withheat。
"Whathaveyoudone?"You'vegotupathalfpastseveno'clockintheeveningtoseethesunrise，that'swhatyou'vedone。"
"Andhaveyoudoneanybetter，I'dliketoknow?I'vealwaysusedtogetupwiththelark，tillIcameunderthepetrifyinginfluenceofyourturgidintellect。"
"YOUusedtogetupwiththelark——Oh，nodoubt——
you'llgetupwiththehangmanoneofthesedays。
Butyououghttobeashamedtobejawingherelikethis，inaredblanket，onaforty-footscaffoldontopoftheAlps。Andnoendofpeopledownheretoboot；
thisisn'tanyplaceforanexhibitionoftemper。"
Andsothecustomaryquarrelwenton。Whenthesunwasfairlydown，weslippedbacktothehotelinthecharitablegloaming，andwenttobedagain。Wehadencounteredthehorn-blowerontheway，andhehadtriedtocollectcompensation，notonlyforannouncingthesunset，whichwedidsee，butforthesunrise，whichwehadtotallymissed；butwesaidno，weonlytookoursolarrationsonthe"Europeanplan"——payforwhatyouget。
Hepromisedtomakeushearhishorninthemorning，ifwewerealive。
CHAPTERXXIX
[LookingWestforSunrise]
Hekepthisword。Weheardhishornandinstantlygotup。
Itwasdarkandcoldandwretched。AsIfumbledaroundforthematches，knockingthingsdownwithmyquakinghands，Iwishedthesunwouldriseinthemiddleoftheday，whenitwaswarmandbrightandcheerful，andonewasn'tsleepy。Weproceededtodressbythegloomofacouplesicklycandles，butwecouldhardlybuttonanything，ourhandsshookso。IthoughtofhowmanyhappypeopletherewereinEurope，Asia，andAmerica，andeverywhere，whoweresleepingpeacefullyintheirbeds，anddidnothavetogetupandseetheRigisunrise——peoplewhodidnotappreciatetheiradvantage，aslikeasnot，butwouldgetupinthemorningwantingmoreboonsofProvidence。
WhilethinkingthesethoughtsIyawned，inaratherampleway，andmyupperteethgothitchedonanailoverthedoor，andwhileIwasmountingachairtofreemyself，Harrisdrewthewindow-curtain，andsaid:
"Oh，thisisluck!Weshan'thavetogooutatall——
yonderarethemountains，infullview。"
Thatwasgladnews，indeed。Itmadeuscheerfulrightaway。
OnecouldseethegrandAlpinemassesdimlyoutlinedagainsttheblackfirmament，andoneortwofaintstarsblinkingthroughriftsinthenight。Fullyclothed，andwrappedinblankets，andhuddledourselvesup，bythewindow，withlightedpipes，andfellintochat，whilewewaitedinexceedingcomforttoseehowanAlpinesunrisewasgoingtolookbycandlelight。Byandbyadelicate，spiritualsortofeffulgencespreaditselfbyimperceptibledegreesovertheloftiestaltitudesofthesnowywastes——buttheretheeffortseemedtostop。
Isaid，presently:
"Thereisahitchaboutthissunrisesomewhere。
Itdoesn'tseemtogo。Whatdoyoureckonisthematterwithit?"
"Idon'tknow。Itappearstohangfiresomewhere。
Ineversawasunriseactlikethatbefore。Canitbethatthehotelisplayinganythingonus?"
"Ofcoursenot。Thehotelmerelyhasapropertyinterestinthesun，ithasnothingtodowiththemanagementofit。
Itisaprecariouskindofproperty，too；asuccessionoftotaleclipseswouldprobablyruinthistavern。
Nowwhatcanbethematterwiththissunrise?"
Harrisjumpedupandsaid:
"I'vegotit!Iknowwhat'sthematterwithit!We'vebeenlookingattheplacewherethesunSETlastnight!"
"Itisperfectlytrue!Whycouldn'tyouhavethoughtofthatsooner?Nowwe'velostanotherone!Andallthroughyourblundering。Itwasexactlylikeyoutolightapipeandsitdowntowaitforthesuntoriseinthewest。"
"Itwasexactlylikemetofindoutthemistake，too。
Youneverwouldhavefounditout。Ifindoutallthemistakes。"
"Youmakethemall，too，elseyourmostvaluablefacultywouldbewastedonyou。Butdon'tstoptoquarrel，now——maybewearenottoolateyet。"
Butwewere。Thesunwaswellupwhenwegottotheexhibition-ground。
Onourwayupwemetthecrowdreturning——menandwomendressedinallsortsofqueercostumes，andexhibitingalldegreesofcoldandwretchednessintheirgaitsandcountenances。Adozenstillremainedonthegroundwhenwereachedthere，huddledtogetheraboutthescaffoldwiththeirbackstothebitterwind。Theyhadtheirredguide-booksopenatthediagramoftheview，andwerepainfullypickingouttheseveralmountainsandtryingtoimpresstheirnamesandpositionsontheirmemories。
ItwasoneofthesaddestsightsIeversaw。
Twosidesofthisplacewereguardedbyrailings，tokeeppeoplefrombeingblownovertheprecipices。
Theview，lookingsheerdownintothebroadvalley，eastward，fromthisgreatelevation——almostaperpendicularmile——wasveryquaintandcurious。Counties，towns，hillyribsandridges，widestretchesofgreenmeadow，greatforesttracts，windingstreams，adozenbluelakes，ablockofbusysteamboats——wesawallthislittleworldinuniquecircumstantialityofdetail——sawitjustasthebirdsseeit——andallreducedtothesmallestofscalesandassharplyworkedoutandfinishedasasteelengraving。Thenumeroustoyvillages，withtinyspiresprojectingoutofthem，werejustasthechildrenmighthaveleftthemwhendonewithplaythedaybefore；
theforesttractswerediminishedtocushionsofmoss；
oneortwobiglakesweredwarfedtoponds，thesmalleronestopuddles——thoughtheydidnotlooklikepuddles，butlikeblueeardropswhichhadfallenandlodgedinslightdepressions，conformabletotheirshapes，amongthemoss-bedsandthesmoothlevelsofdaintygreenfarm-land；themicroscopicsteamboatsglidedalong，asinacityreservoir，takingamightytimetocoverthedistancebetweenportswhichseemedonlyayardapart；
andtheisthmuswhichseparatedtwolakeslookedasifonemightstretchoutonitandliewithbothelbowsinthewater，yetweknewinvisiblewagonsweretoilingacrossitandfindingthedistanceatediousone。
Thisbeautifulminiatureworldhadexactlytheappearanceofthose"reliefmaps"whichreproducenatureprecisely，withtheheightsanddepressionsandotherdetailsgraduatedtoareducedscale，andwiththerocks，trees，lakes，etc。，coloredafternature。
IbelievedwecouldwalkdowntoWa"ggisorVitznauinaday，butIknewwecouldgodownbyrailinaboutanhour，soIchosethelattermethod。Iwantedtoseewhatitwaslike，anyway。Thetraincamealongaboutthemiddleoftheafternoon，andanoddthingitwas。
Thelocomotive-boilerstoodonend，anditandthewholelocomotive-boilerstoodonend，anditandthewholelocomotiveweretiledsharplybackward。Thereweretwopassenger-cars，roofed，butwideopenallaround。
Thesecarswerenottiltedback，buttheseatswere；
thisenablesthepassengertositlevelwhilegoingdownasteepincline。
Therearethreerailway-tracks；thecentraloneiscogged；
the"lanternwheel"oftheenginegripsitswayalongthesecogs，andpullsthetrainupthehillorretardsitsmotiononthedowntrip。Aboutthesamespeed——threemilesanhour——ismaintainedbothways。Whethergoingupordown，thelocomotiveisalwaysatthelowerendofthetrain。
Itpushesintheonecase，bracesbackintheother。
Thepassengerridesbackwardgoingup，andfacesforwardgoingdown。
Wegotfrontseats，andwhilethetrainmovedalongaboutfiftyyardsonlevelground，Iwasnottheleastfrightened；butnowitstartedabruptlydownstairs，andIcaughtmybreath。AndI，likemyneighbors，unconsciouslyheldbackallIcould，andthrewmyweighttotherear，but，ofcourse，thatdidnoparticulargood。
IhadsliddendownthebalusterswhenIwasaboy，andthoughtnothingofit，buttoslidedownthebalustersinarailway-trainisathingtomakeone'sfleshcreep。
Sometimeswehadasmuchastenyardsofalmostlevelground，andthisgaveusafewfullbreathsincomfort；
butstraightwaywewouldturnacornerandseealongsteeplineofrailsstretchingdownbelowus，andthecomfortwasatanend。Oneexpectedtoseethelocomotivepause，orslackupalittle，andapproachthisplungecautiously，butitdidnothingofthekind；itwentcalmlyon，andwentitreachedthejumping-offplaceitmadeasuddenbow，andwentglidingsmoothlydownstairs，untroubledbythecircumstances。
Itwaswildlyexhilaratingtoslidealongtheedgeoftheprecipices，afterthisgrislyfashion，andlookstraightdownuponthatfar-offvalleywhichIwasdescribingawhileago。
TherewasnolevelgroundattheKaltbadstation；
therailbedwasassteepasaroof；Iwascurioustoseehowthestopwasgoingtobemanaged。
Butitwasverysimple；thetraincameslidingdown，andwhenitreachedtherightspotitjuststopped——thatwasalltherewas"toit"——stoppedonthesteepincline，andwhentheexchangeofpassengersandbaggagehadbeenmade，itmovedoffandwentslidingdownagain。
Thetraincanbestoppedanywhere，atamoment'snotice。
Therewasonecuriouseffect，whichIneednottakethetroubletodescribe——becauseIcanscissoradescriptionofitoutoftherailwaycompany'sadvertisingpamphlet，andsaymyink:
"Onthewholetour，particularlyattheDescent，weundergoanopticalillusionwhichoftenseemstobeincredible。
Alltheshrubs，firtrees，stables，houses，etc。，seemtobebentinaslantingdirection，asbyanimmensepressureofair。
Theyareallstandingawry，somuchawrythatthechaletsandcottagesofthepeasantsseemtobetumblingdown。
Itistheconsequenceofthesteepinclinationoftheline。
Thosewhoareseatedinthecarriagedonotobservethattheyaredoingdownadeclivityoftwentytotwenty-fivedegreestheirseatsbeingadaptedtothiscourseofproceedingandbeingbentdownattheirbacks。Theymistaketheircarriageanditshorizontallinesforapropermeasureofthenormalplain，andthereforealltheobjectsoutsidewhichreallyareinahorizontalpositionmustshowadisproportionoftwentytotwenty-fivedegreesdeclivity，inregardtothemountain。"
BythetimeonereachesKaltbad，hehasacquiredconfidenceintherailway，andhenowceasestotrytoeasethelocomotivebyholdingback。Thenceforthhesmokeshispipeinserenity，andgazesoutuponthemagnificentpicturebelowandabouthimwithunfetteredenjoyment。
Thereisnothingtointerruptthevieworthebreeze；
itislikeinspectingtheworldonthewing。However——tobeexact——thereisoneplacewheretheserenitylapsesforawhile；
thisiswhileoneiscrossingtheSchnurrtobelBridge，afrailstructurewhichswingsitsgossamerframedownthroughthedizzyair，overagorge，likeavagrantspider-strand。
Onehasnodifficultyinrememberinghissinswhilethetrainiscreepingdownthisbridge；andherepentsofthem，too；thoughhesees，whenhegetstoVitznau，thatheneednothavedoneit，thebridgewasperfectlysafe。
SoendstheeventualtripwhichwemadetotheRigi-KulmtoseeanAlpinesunrise。
CHAPTERXXX
[HarrisClimbsMountainsforMe]
Anhour'ssailbroughtustoLucerneagain。Ijudgeditbesttogotobedandrestseveraldays，forIknewthatthemanwhoundertakestomakethetourofEuropeonfootmusttakecareofhimself。
Thinkingovermyplans，asmappedout，IperceivedthattheydidnottakeintheFurkaPass，theRhoneGlacier，theFinsteraarhorn，theWetterhorn，etc。Iimmediatelyexaminedtheguide-booktoseeifthesewereimportant，andfoundtheywere；infact，apedestriantourofEuropecouldnotbecompletewithoutthem。Ofcoursethatdecidedmeatoncetoseethem，forIneverallowmyselftodothingsbyhalves，orinaslurring，slipshodway。
Icalledinmyagentandinstructedhimtogowithoutdelayandmakeacarefulexaminationofthesenotedplaces，onfoot，andbringmebackawrittenreportoftheresult，forinsertioninmybook。IinstructedhimtogotoHospenthalasquicklyaspossible，andmakehisgrandstartfromthere；
toextendhisfootexpeditionasfarastheGiesbachfall，andreturntomefromthencebydiligenceormule。
Itoldhimtotakethecourierwithhim。
Heobjectedtothecourier，andwithsomeshowofreason，sincehewasabouttoventureuponnewanduntriedground；
butIthoughthemightaswelllearnhowtotakecareofthecouriernowaslater，thereforeIenforcedmypoint。
Isaidthatthetrouble，delay，andinconvenienceoftravelingwithacourierwerebalancedbythedeeprespectwhichacourier'spresencecommands，andImustinsistthatasmuchstylebethrownintomyjourneysaspossible。
Sothetwoassumedcompletemountaineeringcostumesanddeparted。Aweeklatertheyreturned，prettywellusedup，andmyagenthandedmethefollowingOfficialReportOFAVISITTOTHEFURKAREGION。BYH。HARRIS，AGENT
Aboutseveno'clockinthemorning，withperfectlyfineweather，westartedfromHospenthal，andarrivedattheMAISONontheFurkainalittleunderQUATREhours。
ThewantofvarietyinthesceneryfromHospenthalmadetheKAHKAHPONEEKAwearisome；butletnonebediscouraged；
noonecanfailtobecompletelyR'ECOMPENS'EEforhisfatigue，whenhesees，forthefirsttime，themonarchoftheOberland，thetremendousFinsteraarhorn。Amomentbeforeallwasdullness，butaPASfurtherhasplacedusonthesummitoftheFurka；andexactlyinfrontofus，ataHOPOWofonlyfifteenmiles，thismagnificentmountainliftsitssnow-wreathedprecipicesintothedeepbluesky。
Theinferiormountainsoneachsideofthepassformasortofframeforthepictureoftheirdreadlord，andcloseintheviewsocompletelythatnootherprominentfeatureintheOberlandisvisiblefromthisBONG-A-BONG；
nothingwithdrawstheattentionfromthesolitarygrandeuroftheFinsteraarhornandthedependentspurswhichformtheabutmentsofthecentralpeak。
Withtheadditionofsomeothers，whowerealsoboundfortheGrimsel，weformedalargeXHVLOJaswedescendedtheSTEGwhichwindsroundtheshoulderofamountaintowardtheRhoneGlacier。Wesoonleftthepathandtooktotheice；andafterwanderingamongstthecrevicesUNPEU，toadmirethewondersofthesedeepbluecaverns，andheartherushingofwatersthroughtheirsubglacialchannels，westruckoutacoursetowardL'AUTRECO^T'Eandcrossedtheglaciersuccessfully，alittleabovethecavefromwhichtheinfantRhonetakesitsfirstboundfromunderthegrandprecipiceofice。HalfamilebelowthiswebegantoclimbtheflowerysideoftheMeienwand。
Oneofourpartystartedbeforetherest，buttheHITZE
wassogreat，thatwefoundIHMquiteexhausted，andlyingatfulllengthintheshadeofalargeGESTEIN。
Wesatdownwithhimforatime，forallfelttheheatexceedinglyintheclimbupthisverysteepBOLWOGGOLY，andthenwesetoutagaintogether，andarrivedatlastneartheDeadMan'sLake，atthefootoftheSidelhorn。
Thislonelyspot，onceusedforanextemporeburying-place，afterasanguinaryBATTUEbetweentheFrenchandAustrians，istheperfectionofdesolation；thereisnothinginsighttomarkthehandofman，exceptthelineofweather-beatenwhitenedposts，setuptoindicatethedirectionofthepassintheOWDAWAKKofwinter。Nearthispointthefootpathjoinsthewidertrack，whichconnectstheGrimselwiththeheadoftheRhoneSCHNAWP；thishasbeencarefullyconstructed，andleadswithatortuouscourseamongandoverLESPIERRES，downtothebankofthegloomylittleSWOSH-SWOSH，whichalmostwashesagainstthewallsoftheGrimselHospice。
Wearrivedalittlebeforefouro'clockattheendofourday'sjourney，hotenoughtojustifythestep，takingbymostofthePARTIE，ofplungingintothecrystalwaterofthesnow-fedlake。
ThenextafternoonwestartedforawalkuptheUnteraarglacier，withtheintentionof，atallevents，gettingasfarastheHU"TTEwhichisusedasasleeping-placebymostofthosewhocrosstheStrahleckPasstoGrindelwald。
WegotoverthetediouscollectionofstonesandDE'BRIS
whichcoversthePIEDoftheGLETCHER，andhadwalkednearlythreehoursfromtheGrimsel，when，justaswewerethinkingofcrossingovertotheright，toclimbthecliffsatthefootofthehut，theclouds，whichhadforsometimeassumedathreateningappearance，suddenlydropped，andahugemassofthem，drivingtowardusfromtheFinsteraarhorn，poureddownadelugeofHABOOLONGandhail。Fortunately，wewerenotfarfromaverylargeglacier-table；itwasahugerockbalancedonapedestaloficehighenoughtoadmitofourallcreepingunderitforGOWKARAK。AstreamofPUCKITTYPUKK
hadfurrowedacourseforitselfintheiceatitsbase，andwewereobligedtostandwithoneFUSSoneachsideofthis，andendeavortokeepourselvesCHAUDbycuttingstepsinthesteepbankofthepedestal，soastogetahigherplaceforstandingon，astheWASSERroserapidlyinitstrench。AverycoldBZZZZZZZZEEEaccompaniedthestorm，andmadeourpositionfarfrompleasant；
andpresentlycameaflashofBLITZEN，apparentlyinthemiddleofourlittleparty，withaninstantaneousclapofYOKKY，soundinglikealargegunfiredclosetoourears；
theeffectwasstartling；butinafewsecondsourattentionwasfixedbytheroaringechoesofthethunderagainstthetremendousmountainswhichcompletelysurroundedus。
Thiswasfollowedbymanymorebursts，noneofWELCHE，however，wassodangerouslynear；andafterwaitingalongDEMI-hourinouricyprison，wesalliedouttotalkthroughaHABOOLONGwhich，thoughnotsoheavyasbefore，wasquiteenoughtogiveusathoroughsoakingbeforeourarrivalattheHospice。
TheGrimselisCERTAINEMENTawonderfulplace；situatedatthebottomofasortofhugecrater，thesidesofwhichareutterlysavageGEBIRGE，composedofbarrenrockswhichcannotevensupportasinglepineARBRE，andaffordonlyscantyfoodforaherdofGMWKWLLOLP，itlooksasifitmustbecompletelyBEGRABENinthewintersnows。
Enormousavalanchesfallagainstiteveryspring，sometimescoveringeverythingtothedepthofthirtyorfortyfeet；and，inspiteofwallsfourfeetthick，andfurnishedwithoutsideshutters，thetwomenwhostayherewhentheVOYAGEURSaresnuglyquarteredintheirdistanthomescantellyouthatthesnowsometimesshakesthehousetoitsfoundations。
NextmorningtheHOGGLEBUMGULLUPstillcontinuedbad，butwemadeupourmindstogoon，andmakethebestofit。
Halfanhourafterwestarted，theREGENthickenedunpleasantly，andweattemptedtogetshelterunderaprojectingrock，butbeingfartoNASSalreadytomakestandingatallAGRE'ABLE，wepushedonfortheHandeck，consolingourselveswiththereflectionthatfromthefuriousrushingoftheriverAaratourside，weshouldatalleventsseethecelebratedWASSERFALLinGRANDEPERFECTION。
NorwereweNAPPERSOCKETinourexpectation；thewaterwasroaringdownitsleapoftwohundredandfiftyfeetinamostmagnificentfrenzy，whilethetreeswhichclingtoitsrockysidesswayedtoandfrointheviolenceofthehurricanewhichitbroughtdownwithit；eventhestream，whichfallsintothemaincascadeatrightangles，andTOUTEFOISformsabeautifulfeatureinthescene，wasnowswollenintoaragingtorrent；andtheviolenceofthis"meetingofthewaters，"aboutfiftyfeetbelowthefrailbridgewherewestood，wasfearfullygrand。
Whilewewerelookingatit，GLU"CKLICHEWEISEagleamofsunshinecameout，andinstantlyabeautifulrainbowwasformedbythespray，andhunginmid-airsuspendedovertheawfulgorge。
OngoingintotheCHALETabovethefall，wewereinformedthataBRU"CKEhadbrokendownnearGuttanen，andthatitwouldbeimpossibletoproceedforsometime；
accordinglywewerekeptinourdrenchedconditionforEINSTUNDE，whensomeVOYAGEURSarrivedfromMeiringen，andtoldusthattherehadbeenatriflingaccident，ABERthatwecouldnowcross。Onarrivingatthespot，IwasmuchinclinedtosuspectthatthewholestorywasarusetomakeusSLOWWKanddrinkthemoreattheHandeckInn，foronlyafewplankshadbeencarriedaway，andthoughtheremightperhapshavebeensomedifficultywithmules，thegapwascertainlynotlargerthanaMMBGLXmightcrosswithaveryslightleap。NearGuttanentheHABOOLONG
happilyceased，andwehadtimetowalkourselvestolerablydrybeforearrivingatReichenback，WOweenjoyedagoodDINE'
attheHoteldesAlps。
NextmorningwewalkedtoRosenlaui，theBEAUID'EAL
ofSwissscenery，wherewespentthemiddleofthedayinanexcursiontotheglacier。Thiswasmorebeautifulthanwordscandescribe，forintheconstantprogressoftheiceithaschangedtheformofitsextremityandformedavastcavern，asblueastheskyabove，andrippledlikeafrozenocean。AfewstepscutintheWHOOPJAMBOREEHOOenabledustowalkcompletelyunderthis，andfeastoureyesupononeoftheloveliestobjectsincreation。Theglacierwasallarounddividedbynumberlessfissuresofthesameexquisitecolor，andthefinestwood-ERDBEERENweregrowinginabundancebutafewyardsfromtheice。TheinnstandsinaCHARMANT
spotclosetotheC^OTEDELARIVIE`RE，which，lowerdown，formstheReichenbachfall，andembosomedintherichestofpinewoods，whilethefineformoftheWellhornlookingdownuponitcompletestheenchantingBOPPLE。
IntheafternoonwewalkedovertheGreatScheidecktoGrindelwald，stoppingtopayavisittotheUpperglacierbytheway；butwewereagainovertakenbybadHOGGLEBUMGULLUPandarrivedatthehotelinaSOLCHE
astatethatthelandlord'swardrobewasingreatrequest。
Thecloudsbythistimeseemedtohavedonetheirworst，foralovelydaysucceeded，whichwedeterminedtodevotetoanascentoftheFaulhorn。WeleftGrindelwaldjustasathunder-stormwasdyingaway，andwehopedtofindGUTEN
WETTERupabove；buttherain，whichhadnearlyceased，beganagain，andwewerestruckbytherapidlyincreasingFROIDasweascended。Two-thirdsofthewayupwerecompletedwhentherainwasexchangedforGNILLIC，withwhichtheBODENwasthicklycovered，andbeforewearrivedatthetoptheGNILLICandmistbecamesothickthatwecouldnotseeoneanotheratmorethantwentyPOOPOOdistance，anditbecamedifficulttopickourwayovertheroughandthicklycoveredground。Shiveringwithcold，weturnedintobedwithadoubleallowanceofclothes，andsleptcomfortablywhilethewindhowledAUTOURDE
LAMAISON；whenIawoke，thewallandthewindowlookedequallydark，butinanotherhourIfoundIcouldjustseetheformofthelatter；soIjumpedoutofbed，andforceditopen，thoughwithgreatdifficultyfromthefrostandthequantitiesofGNILLICheapedupagainstit。
Arowofhugeicicleshungdownfromtheedgeoftheroof，andanythingmorewintrythanthewholeANBLICKcouldnotwellbeimagined；butthesuddenappearanceofthegreatmountainsinfrontwassostartlingthatIfeltnoinclinationtomovetowardbedagain。ThesnowwhichhadcollecteduponLAFENE^TREhadincreasedtheFINSTERNISS
ODERDERDUNKELHEIT，sothatwhenIlookedoutIwassurprisedtofindthatthedaylightwasconsiderable，andthattheBALRAGOOMAHwouldevidentlyrisebeforelong。
OnlythebrightestofLESE'TOILESwerestillshining；
theskywascloudlessoverhead，thoughsmallcurlingmistslaythousandsoffeetbelowusinthevalleys，wreathedaroundthefeetofthemountains，andaddingtothesplendoroftheirloftysummits。Weweresoondressedandoutofthehouse，watchingthegradualapproachofdawn，thoroughlyabsorbedinthefirstnearviewoftheOberlandgiants，whichbrokeuponusunexpectedlyaftertheintenseobscurityoftheeveningbefore。
"KABAUGWAKKOSONGWASHEEKUMWETTERHORNSNAWPO!"criedsomeone，asthatgrandsummitgleamedwiththefirstroseofdawn；
andinafewmomentsthedoublecrestoftheSchreckhornfolloweditsexample；peakafterpeakseemedwarmedwithlife，theJungfraublushedevenmorebeautifullythanherneighbors，andsoon，fromtheWetterhornintheeasttotheWildstrubelinthewest，alongrowoffiresgloweduponmightyaltars，trulyworthyofthegods。
TheWLGWwasverysevere；oursleeping-placecouldhardlybeDISTINGUEE'fromthesnowaroundit，whichhadfallentoadepthofaFLIRKduringthepastevening，andweheartilyenjoyedaroughscrambleENBAStotheGiesbachfalls，wherewesoonfoundawarmclimate。
AtnoonthedaybeforeGrindelwaldthethermometercouldnothavestoodatlessthan100degreesFahr。inthesun；
andintheevening，judgingfromtheiciclesformed，andthestateofthewindows，theremusthavebeenatleasttwelveDINGBLATTERoffrost，thusgivingachangeof80
degreesduringafewhours。
Isaid:
"Youhavedonewell，Harris；thisreportisconcise，compact，wellexpressed；thelanguageiscrisp，thedescriptionsarevividandnotneedlesslyelaborated；
yourreportgoesstraighttothepoint，attendsstrictlytobusiness，anddoesn'tfoolaround。Itisinmanywaysanexcellentdocument。Butithasafault——itistoolearned，itismuchtoolearned。Whatis'DINGBLATTER'?
"'DINGBLATTER'isaFijiwordmeaning'degrees。'"
"YouknewtheEnglishofit，then?"
"Oh，yes。"
"Whatis'GNILLIC'?
"ThatistheEskimotermfor'snow。'"
"SoyouknewtheEnglishforthat，too?"
"Why，certainly。"
"Whatdoes'MMBGLX'standfor?"
"ThatisZulufor'pedestrian。'"
"'WhiletheformoftheWellhornlookingdownuponitcompletestheenchantingBOPPLE。'Whatis'BOPPLE'?"
"'Picture。'It'sChoctaw。"
"Whatis'SCHNAWP'?"
"'Valley。'ThatisChoctaw，also。"
"Whatis'BOLWOGGOLY'?"
"ThatisChinesefor'hill。'"
"'KAHKAHPONEEKA'?"
"'Ascent。'Choctaw。"
"'ButwewereagainovertakenbybadHOGGLEBUMGULLUP。'
Whatdoes'HOGGLEBUMGULLUP'mean?"
"ThatisChinesefor'weather。'"
"Is'HOGGLEBUMGULLUP'betterthantheEnglishword?Isitanymoredescriptive?"
"No，itmeansjustthesame。"
"And'DINGBLATTER'and'GNILLIC，'and'BOPPLE，'
and'SCHNAWP'——aretheybetterthantheEnglishwords?"
"No，theymeanjustwhattheEnglishonesdo。"
"Thenwhydoyouusethem?WhyhaveyouusedallthisChineseandChoctawandZulurubbish?"
"BecauseIdidn'tknowanyFrenchbuttwoorthreewords，andIdidn'tknowanyLatinorGreekatall。"
"Thatisnothing。Whyshouldyouwanttouseforeignwords，anyhow?"
"Theyadornmypage。Theyalldoit。"
"Whois'all'?"
"Everybody。Everybodythatwriteselegantly。Anybodyhasarighttothatwantsto。"
"Ithinkyouaremistaken。"Ithenproceededinthefollowingscathingmanner。"Whenreallylearnedmenwritebooksforotherlearnedmentoread，theyarejustifiedinusingasmanylearnedwordsastheyplease——theiraudiencewillunderstandthem；butamanwhowritesabookforthegeneralpublictoreadisnotjustifiedindisfiguringhispageswithuntranslatedforeignexpressions。