Itwasajourneywhicharollingstonewouldmakeinafewseconds——theloftypointofdeparturewasvisiblefromthevillagebelowinthevalley。
　　Thepredictioncutcuriouslyclosetothetruth；
　　forty-oneyearsafterthecatastrophe，theremainswerecastforthatthefootoftheglacier。
　　IfindaninterestingaccountofthematterintheHISTOIREDUMONTBLANC，byStephend'Arve。Iwillcondensethisaccount，asfollows:
　　Onthe12thofAugust，1861，atthehourofthecloseofmass，aguidearrivedoutofbreathatthemairieofChamonix，andbearingonhisshouldersaverylugubriousburden。
　　ItwasasackfilledwithhumanremainswhichhehadgatheredfromtheorificeofacreviceintheGlacierdesBossons。
　　Heconjecturedthatthesewereremainsofthevictimsofthecatastropheof1820，andaminuteinquest，immediatelyinstitutedbythelocalauthorities，soondemonstratedthecorrectnessofhissupposition。
　　Thecontentsofthesackwerespreaduponalongtable，andofficiallyinventoried，asfollows:
　　Portionsofthreehumanskulls。Severaltuftsofblackandblondehair。Ahumanjaw，furnishedwithfinewhiteteeth。
　　Aforearmandhand，allthefingersofthelatterintact。
　　Thefleshwaswhiteandfresh，andboththearmandhandpreservedadegreeofflexibilityinthearticulations。
　　Thering-fingerhadsufferedaslightabrasion，andthestainofthebloodwasstillvisibleandunchangedafterforty-oneyears。Aleftfoot，thefleshwhiteandfresh。
　　Alongwiththesefragmentswereportionsofwaistcoats，hats，hobnailedshoes，andotherclothing；awingofapigeon，withblackfeathers；afragmentofanalpenstock；
　　atinlantern；andlastly，aboiledlegofmutton，theonlyfleshamongalltheremainsthatexhaledanunpleasantodor。Theguidesaidthatthemuttonhadnoodorwhenhetookitfromtheglacier；anhour'sexposuretothesunhadalreadybeguntheworkofdecompositionuponit。
　　Personswerecalledfor，toidentifythesepoorpatheticrelics，andatouchingsceneensured。Twomenwerestilllivingwhohadwitnessedthegrimcatastropheofnearlyhalfacenturybefore——MarieCouttetsavedbyhisbaton
　　andJulienDavouassouxsavedbythebarometer。Theseagedmenenteredandapproachedthetable。Davouassoux，morethaneightyyearsold，contemplatedthemournfulremainsmutelyandwithavacanteye，forhisintelligenceandhismemoryweretorpidwithage；butCouttet'sfacultieswerestillperfectatseventy-two，andheexhibitedstrongemotion。Hesaid:
　　"PierreBalmatwasfair；heworeastrawhat。Thisbitofskull，withthetuftofblondhair，washis；thisishishat。
　　PierreCarrierwasverydark；thisskullwashis，andthisfelthat。ThisisBalmat'shand，Irememberitsowell!"
　　andtheoldmanbentdownandkisseditreverently，thenclosedhisfingersuponitinanaffectionategrasp，cryingout，"Icouldneverhavedaredtobelievethatbeforequittingthisworlditwouldbegrantedmetopressoncemorethehandofoneofthosebravecomrades，thehandofmygoodfriendBalmat。"
　　Thereissomethingweirdlypatheticaboutthepictureofthatwhite-hairedveterangreetingwithhislovinghandshakethisfriendwhohadbeendeadfortyyears。
　　Whenthesehandshadmetlast，theywerealikeinthesoftnessandfreshnessofyouth；now，onewasbrownandwrinkledandhornywithage，whiletheotherwasstillasyoungandfairandblemishlessasifthosefortyyearshadcomeandgoneinasinglemoment，leavingnomarkoftheirpassage。Timehadgoneon，intheonecase；
　　ithadstoodstillintheother。Amanwhohasnotseenafriendforageneration，keepshiminmindalwaysashesawhimlast，andissomehowsurprised，andisalsoshocked，toseetheagingchangetheyearshavewroughtwhenheseeshimagain。MarieCouttet'sexperience，infindinghisfriend'shandunalteredfromtheimageofitwhichhehadcarriedinhismemoryforfortyyears，isanexperiencewhichstandsaloneinthehistoryofman，perhaps。
　　Couttetidentifiedotherrelics:
　　"ThishatbelongedtoAugusteTairraz。Hecarriedthecageofpigeonswhichweproposedtosetfreeuponthesummit。Hereisthewingofoneofthosepigeons。
　　Andhereisthefragmentofmybrokenbaton；itwasbygraceofthatbatonthatmylifewassaved。WhocouldhavetoldmethatIshouldonedayhavethesatisfactiontolookagainuponthisbitofwoodthatsupportedmeabovethegravethatswallowedupmyunfortunatecompanions!"
　　NoportionsofthebodyofTairraz，otherthanapieceoftheskull，hadbeenfound。Adiligentsearchwasmade，butwithoutresult。However，anothersearchwasinstitutedayearlater，andthishadbettersuccess。
　　Manyfragmentsofclothingwhichhadbelongedtothelostguideswerediscovered；also，partofalantern，andagreenveilwithblood-stainsonit。Buttheinterestingfeaturewasthis:
　　Oneofthesearcherscamesuddenlyuponasleevedarmprojectingfromacreviceintheice-wall，withthehandoutstretchedasifofferinggreeting!"Thenailsofthiswhitehandwerestillrosy，andtheposeoftheextendedfingersseemedtoexpressaneloquentwelcometothelong-lostlightofday。"
　　Thehandandarmwerealone；therewasnotrunk。
　　Afterbeingremovedfromtheicetheflesh-tintsquicklyfadedoutandtherosynailstookonthealabasterhueofdeath。ThiswasthethirdRIGHThandfound；
　　therefore，allthreeofthelostmenwereaccountedfor，beyondcavilorquestion。
　　Dr。HamelwastheRussiangentlemanofthepartywhichmadetheascentatthetimeofthefamousdisaster。
　　HeleftChamonixassoonasheconvenientlycouldafterthedescent；andashehadshownachillyindifferenceaboutthecalamity，andofferedneithersympathynorassistancetothewidowsandorphans，hecarriedwithhimthecordialexecrationsofthewholecommunity。
　　Fourmonthsbeforethefirstremainswerefound，aChamonixguidenamedBalmat——arelativeofoneofthelostmen——wasinLondon，andonedayencounteredahaleoldgentlemanintheBritishMuseum，whosaid:
　　"Ioverheardyourname。AreyoufromChamonix，MonsieurBalmat?"
　　"Yes，sir。"
　　"Haven'ttheyfoundthebodiesofmythreeguides，yet?IamDr。Hamel。"
　　"Alas，no，monsieur。"
　　"Well，you'llfindthem，soonerorlater。"
　　"Yes，itistheopinionofDr。ForbesandMr。Tyndall，thattheglacierwillsoonerorlaterrestoretoustheremainsoftheunfortunatevictims。"
　　"Withoutadoubt，withoutadoubt。AnditwillbeagreatthingforChamonix，inthematterofattractingtourists。
　　Youcangetupamuseumwiththoseremainsthatwilldraw!"
　　ThissavageideahasnotimprovedtheodorofDr。Hamel'snameinChamonixbyanymeans。Butafterall，themanwassoundonhumannature。HisideawasconveyedtothepublicofficialsofChamonix，andtheygravelydiscusseditaroundtheofficialcouncil-table。Theywereonlypreventedfromcarryingitintoexecutionbythedeterminedoppositionofthefriendsanddescendantsofthelostguides，whoinsistedongivingtheremainsChristianburial，andsucceededintheirpurpose。
　　Aclosewatchhadtobekeptuponallthepoorremnantsandfragments，topreventembezzlement。Afewaccessoryoddsandendsweresold。Ragsandscrapsofthecoarseclothingwerepartedwithattherateequaltoabouttwentydollarsayard；apieceofalanternandoneortwoothertriflesbroughtnearlytheirweightingold；
　　andanEnglishmanofferedapoundsterlingforasinglebreeches-button。
　　CHAPTERXLI
　　[TheFearfulDisasterof1865]
　　OneofthemostmemorableofalltheAlpinecatastropheswasthatofJuly，1865，ontheMatterhorn——alreadysightedreferredto，afewpagesback。ThedetailsofitarescarcelyknowninAmerica。Tothevastmajorityofreaderstheyarenotknownatall。
　　Mr。Whymper'saccountistheonlyauthenticone。
　　Iwillimportthechiefportionofitintothisbook，partlybecauseofitsintrinsicinterest，andpartlybecauseitgivessuchavividideaofwhattheperilouspastimeofAlp-climbingis。ThiswasMr。Whymper'sNINTHattemptduringaseriesofyears，tovanquishthatsteepandstubbornpillarorrock；itsucceeded，theothereightwerefailures。Nomanhadeveraccomplishedtheascentbefore，thoughtheattemptshadbeennumerous。
　　MR。WHYMPER'SNARRATIVE
　　WestartedfromZermattonthe13thofJuly，athalfpastfive，onabrilliantandperfectlycloudlessmorning。
　　Wewereeightinnumber——Crozguide，oldPeterTaugwalderguideandhistwosons；LordF。Douglas，Mr。Hadow，Rev。Mr。Hudson，andI。Toinsuresteadymotion，onetouristandonenativewalkedtogether。
　　TheyoungestTaugwalderfelltomyshare。Thewine-bagsalsofelltomylottocarry，andthroughouttheday，aftereachdrink，Ireplenishedthemsecretlywithwater，sothatatthenexthalttheywerefoundfullerthanbefore!Thiswasconsideredagoodomen，andlittleshortofmiraculous。
　　Onthefirstdaywedidnotintendtoascendtoanygreatheight，andwemounted，accordingly，veryleisurely。
　　Beforetwelveo'clockwehadfoundagoodpositionforthetent，ataheightofeleventhousandfeet。
　　Wepassedtheremaininghoursofdaylight——somebaskinginthesunshine，somesketching，somecollecting；
　　Hudsonmadetea，Icoffee，andatlengthweretired，eachonetohisblanketbag。
　　Weassembledtogetherbeforedawnonthe14thandstarteddirectlyitwaslightenoughtomove。
　　OneoftheyoungTaugwaldersreturnedtoZermatt。
　　Inafewminutesweturnedtheribwhichhadinterceptedtheviewoftheeasternfacefromourtentplatform。
　　Thewholeofthisgreatslopewasnowrevealed，risingforthreethousandfeetlikeahugenaturalstaircase。
　　Somepartsweremore，andotherswerelesseasy，butwewerenotoncebroughttoahaltbyanyseriousimpediment，forwhenanobstructionwasmetinfrontitcouldalwaysbeturnedtotherightortotheleft。Forthegreaterpartofthewaytherewasnooccasion，indeed，fortherope，andsometimesHudsonled，sometimesmyself。Atsix-twentywehadattainedaheightoftwelvethousandeighthundredfeet，andhaltedforhalfanhour；wethencontinuedtheascentwithoutabreakuntilnine-fifty-five，whenwestoppedforfiftyminutes，ataheightoffourteenthousandfeet。
　　Wehadnowarrivedatthefootofthatpartwhich，seenfromtheRiffelberg，seemsperpendicularoroverhanging。
　　Wecouldnolongercontinueontheeasternside。ForalittledistanceweascendedbysnowupontheARE^TE——thatis，theridge——thenturnedovertotheright，ornorthernside。
　　Theworkbecamedifficult，andrequiredcaution。Insomeplacestherewaslittletohold；thegeneralslopeofthemountainwasLESSthanfortydegrees，andsnowhadaccumulatedin，andhadfilledup，theintersticesoftherock-face，leavingonlyoccasionalfragmentsprojectinghereandthere。
　　Thesewereattimescoveredwithathinfilmofice。
　　Itwasaplacewhichanyfairmountaineermightpassinsafety。Weboreawaynearlyhorizontallyforaboutfourhundredfeet，thenascendeddirectlytowardthesummitforaboutsixtyfeet，thendoubledbacktotheridgewhichdescendstowardZermatt。Alongstrideroundaratherawkwardcornerbroughtustosnowoncemore。
　　Thatlastdoubtvanished!TheMatterhornwasours!Nothingbuttwohundredfeetofeasysnowremainedtobesurmounted。
　　Thehigherwerose，themoreintensebecametheexcitement。
　　Theslopeeasedoff，atlengthwecouldbedetached，andCrozandI，dashedaway，rananeck-and-neckrace，whichendedinadeadheat。At1:40P。M。，theworldwasatourfeet，andtheMatterhornwasconquered!
　　Theothersarrived。Croznowtookthetent-pole，andplanteditinthehighestsnow。"Yes，"wesaid，"thereistheflag-staff，butwhereistheflag?""Hereitis，"
　　heanswered，pullingoffhisblouseandfixingittothestick。
　　Itmadeapoorflag，andtherewasnowindtofloatitout，yetitwasseenallaround。TheysawitatZermatt——attheRiffel——intheValTournanche……
　　Weremainedonthesummitforonehour——
　　Onecrowdedhourofgloriouslife。
　　Itpassedawaytooquickly，andwebegantoprepareforthedescent。
　　HudsonandIconsultedastothebestandsafestarrangementoftheparty。WeagreedthatitwasbestforCroztogofirst，andHadowsecond；Hudson，whowasalmostequaltoaguideinsurenessoffoot，wishedtobethird；
　　LordDouglaswasplacednext，andoldPeter，thestrongestoftheremainder，afterhim。IsuggestedtoHudsonthatweshouldattacharopetotherocksonourarrivalatthedifficultbit，andholditaswedescended，asanadditionalprotection。Heapprovedtheidea，butitwasnotdefinitelydecidedthatitshouldbedone。
　　ThepartywasbeingarrangedintheaboveorderwhileI
　　wassketchingthesummit，andtheyhadfinished，andwerewaitingformetobetiedinline，whensomeonerememberedthatournameshadnotbeenleftinabottle。
　　Theyrequestedmetowritethemdown，andmovedoffwhileitwasbeingdone。
　　AfewminutesafterwardItiedmyselftoyoungPeter，randownaftertheothers，andcaughtthemjustastheywerecommencingthedescentofthedifficultpart。
　　Greatcarewasbeingtaken。Onlyonemanwasmovingatatime；
　　whenhewasfirmlyplantedthenextadvanced，andsoon。
　　Theyhadnot，however，attachedtheadditionalropetorocks，andnothingwassaidaboutit。Thesuggestionwasnotmadeformyownsake，andIamnotsurethatiteveroccurredtomeagain。Forsomelittledistancewetwofollowedtheothers，detachedfromthem，andshouldhavecontinuedsohadnotLordDouglasaskedme，about3
　　P。M。，totieontooldPeter，ashefeared，hesaid，thatTaugwalderwouldnotbeabletoholdhisgroundifaslipoccurred。
　　Afewminuteslater，asharp-eyedladranintotheMonteRosaHotel，atZermatt，sayingthathehadseenanavalanchefallfromthesummitoftheMatterhornontotheMatterhornglacier。Theboywasreprovedfortellingidlestories；
　　hewasright，nevertheless，andthiswaswhathesaw。
　　MichelCrozhadlaidasidehisax，andinordertogiveMr。Hadowgreatersecurity，wasabsolutelytakingholdofhislegs，andputtinghisfeet，onebyone，intotheirproperpositions。AsfarasIknow，noonewasactuallydescending。Icannotspeakwithcertainty，becausethetwoleadingmenwerepartiallyhiddenfrommysightbyaninterveningmassofrock，butitismybelief，fromthemovementsoftheirshoulders，thatCroz，havingdoneasIsaid，wasintheactofturningroundtogodownasteportwohimself；
　　atthismomentMr。Hadowslipped，fellagainsthim，andknockedhimover。IheardonestartledexclamationfromCroz，thensawhimandMr。Hadowflyingdownward；
　　inanothermomentHudsonwasdraggedfromhissteps，andLordDouglasimmediatelyafterhim。Allthiswastheworkofamoment。ImmediatelyweheardCroz'sexclamation，oldPeterandIplantedourselvesasfirmlyastherockswouldpermit；theropewastautbetweenus，andthejerkcameonusbothasononeman。Weheld；buttheropebrokemidwaybetweenTaugwalderandLordFrancisDouglas。
　　Forafewsecondswesawourunfortunatecompanionsslidingdownwardontheirbacks，andspreadingouttheirhands，endeavoringtosavethemselves。Theypassedfromoursightuninjured，disappearedonebyone，andfellfromtheprecipicetoprecipiceontotheMatterhornglacierbelow，adistanceofnearlyfourthousandfeetinheight。
　　Fromthemomenttheropebrokeitwasimpossibletohelpthem。
　　Soperishedourcomrades!
　　FormorethantwohoursafterwardIthoughtalmosteverymomentthatthenextwouldbemylast；fortheTaugwalders，utterlyunnerved，werenotonlyincapableofgivingassistance，butwereinsuchastatethataslipmighthavebeenexpectedfromthematanymoment。Afteratimewewereabletodothatwhichshouldhavebeendoneatfirst，andfixedropetofirmrocks，inadditiontobeingtiedtogether。
　　Theseropeswerecutfromtimetotime，andwereleftbehind。
　　Evenwiththeirassurancethemenwereafraidtoproceed，andseveraltimesoldPeterturned，withashyfaceandfalteringlimbs，andsaid，withterribleemphasis，"ICANNOT!"
　　About6P。M。，wearrivedatthesnowupontheridgedescendingtowardZermatt，andallperilwasover。
　　Wefrequentlylooked，butinvain，fortracesofourunfortunatecompanions；webentovertheridgeandcriedtothem，butnosoundreturned。Convincedatlastthattheywereneitherwithinsightnorhearing，weceasedfromouruselessefforts；and，toocastdownforspeech，silentlygatheredupourthings，andthelittleeffectsofthosewhowerelost，andthencompletedthedescent——
　　SuchisMr。Whymper'sgraphicandthrillingnarrative。
　　ZermattgossipdarklyhintsthattheelderTaugwaldercuttherope，whentheaccidentoccurred，inordertopreservehimselffrombeingdraggedintotheabyss；
　　butMr。Whympersaysthattheendsoftheropeshowednoevidenceofcutting，butonlyofbreaking。HeaddsthatifTaugwalderhadhadthedispositiontocuttherope，hewouldnothavehadtimetodoit，theaccidentwassosuddenandunexpected。
　　LordDouglas'bodyhasneverbeenfound。Itprobablylodgeduponsomeinaccessibleshelfinthefaceofthemightyprecipice。LordDouglaswasayouthofnineteen。
　　Thethreeothervictimsfellnearlyfourthousandfeet，andtheirbodieslaytogetherupontheglacierwhenfoundbyMr。Whymperandtheothersearchersthenextmorning。
　　TheirgravesarebesidethelittlechurchinZermatt。
　　CHAPTERXLII
　　[ChillonhasaNice，RoomyDungeon]
　　Switzerlandissimplyalarge，humpy，solidrock，withathinskinofgrassstretchedoverit。Consequently，theydonotdiggraves，theyblastthemoutwithpowerandfuse。Theycannotaffordtohavelargegraveyards，thegrassskinistoocircumscribedandtoovaluable。
　　Itisallrequiredforthesupportoftheliving。
　　ThegraveyardinZermattoccupiesonlyaboutone-eighthofanacre。Thegravesaresunkinthelivingrock，andareverypermanent；butoccupationofthemisonlytemporary；
　　theoccupantcanonlystaytillhisgraveisneededbyalatersubject，heisremoved，then，fortheydonotburyonebodyontopofanother。AsIunderstandit，afamilyownsagrave，justasitownsahouse。Amandiesandleaveshishousetohisson——andatthesametime，thisdeadfathersucceedstohisownfather'sgrave。
　　Hemovesoutofthehouseandintothegrave，andhispredecessormovesoutofthegraveandintothecellarofthechapel。Isawablackboxlyinginthechurchyard，withskullandcross-bonespaintedonit，andwastoldthatthiswasusedintransferringremainstothecellar。
　　Inthatcellarthebonesandskullsofseveralhundredofformercitizenswerecompactlycordedup。Theymadeapileeighteenfeetlong，sevenfeethigh，andeightfeetwide。
　　IwastoldthatinsomeofthereceptaclesofthiskindintheSwissvillages，theskullswereallmarked，andifamanwishedtofindtheskullsofhisancestorsforseveralgenerationsback，hecoulddoitbythesemarks，preservedinthefamilyrecords。
　　AnEnglishgentlemanwhohadlivedsomeyearsinthisregion，saiditwasthecradleofcompulsoryeducation。
　　ButhesaidthattheEnglishideathatcompulsoryeducationwouldreducebastardyandintemperancewasanerror——ithasnotthateffect。HesaidtherewasmoreseductionintheProtestantthanintheCatholiccantons，becausetheconfessionalprotectedthegirls。Iwonderwhyitdoesn'tprotectmarriedwomeninFranceandSpain?
　　ThisgentlemansaidthatamongthepoorerpeasantsintheValais，itwascommonforthebrothersinafamilytocastlotstodeterminewhichofthemshouldhavethecovetedprivilegeofmarrying，andhisbrethren——doomedbachelors——heroicallybandedthemselvestogethertohelpsupportthenewfamily。
　　WeleftZermattinawagon——andinarain-storm，too——
　　forSt。Nicholasaboutteno'clockonemorning。
　　Againwepassedbetweenthosegrass-cladprodigiouscliffs，speckedwithweedwellingspeepingoveratusfromvelvetygreenwallstenandtwelvehundredfeethigh。
　　Itdidnotseempossiblethattheimaginarychamoisevencouldclimbthoseprecipices。Loversonoppositecliffsprobablykissthroughaspy-glass，andcorrespondwitharifle。
　　InSwitzerlandthefarmer'splowisawideshovel，whichscrapesupandturnsoverthethinearthyskinofhisnativerock——andtherethemanoftheplowisahero。
　　Nowhere，byourSt。Nicholasroad，wasagrave，andithadatragicstory。Aplowmanwasskinninghisfarmonemorning——notthesteepestpartofit，butstillasteeppart——thatis，hewasnotskinningthefrontofhisfarm，buttheroofofit，neartheeaves——whenheabsent-mindedlyletgooftheplow-handlestomoistenhishands，intheusualway；helosthisbalanceandfelloutofhisfarmbackward；poorfellow，henevertouchedanythingtillhestruckbottom，fifteenhundredfeetbelow。
　　[1]Wethrowahaloofheroismaroundthelifeofthesoldierandthesailor，becauseofthedeadlydangerstheyarefacingallthetime。Butwearenotusedtolookinguponfarmingasaheroicoccupation。ThisisbecausewehavenotlivedinSwitzerland。
　　1。ThiswasonaSunday——M。T。
　　FromSt。NicholaswestruckoutforVisp——orVispach——onfoot。
　　Therain-stormshadbeenatworkduringseveraldays，andhaddoneadealofdamageinSwitzerlandandSavoy。
　　Wecametooneplacewhereastreamhadchangeditscourseandplungeddownamountaininanewplace，sweepingeverythingbeforeit。Twopoorbutpreciousfarmsbytheroadsidewereruined。Onewaswashedclearaway，andthebed-rockexposed；theotherwasburiedoutofsightunderatumbledchaosofrocks，gravel，mud，andrubbish。
　　Theresistlessmightofwaterwaswellexemplified。
　　Somesaplingswhichhadstoodinthewaywerebenttotheground，strippedcleanoftheirbark，andburiedunderrockydebris。
　　Theroadhadbeensweptaway，too。
　　Inanotherplace，wheretheroadwashighuponthemountain'sface，anditsoutsideedgeprotectedbyflimsymasonry，wefrequentlycameacrossspotswherethismasonryhadcarvedoffandleftdangerousgapsformulestogetover；
　　andwithstillmorefrequencywefoundthemasonryslightlycrumbled，andmarkedbymule-hoofs，thusshowingthattherehadbeendangerofanaccidenttosomebody。
　　Whenatlastwecametoabadlyrupturedbitofmasonry，withhoof-printsevidencingadesperatestruggletoregainthelostfoothold，Ilookedquitehopefullyoverthedizzyprecipice。Buttherewasnobodydownthere。
　　TheytakeexceedinglygoodcareoftheirriversinSwitzerlandandotherportionsofEurope。Theywallupbothbankswithslantingsolidstonemasonry——sothatfromendtoendoftheseriversthebankslooklikethewharvesatSt。LouisandothertownsontheMississippiRiver。
　　ItwasduringthiswalkfromSt。Nicholas，intheshadowofthemajesticAlps，thatwecameacrosssomelittlechildrenamusingthemselvesinwhatseemed，atfirst，amostoddandoriginalway——butitwasn't；itwasinsimplyanaturalandcharacteristicway。Theywereropedtogetherwithastring，theyhadmimicalpenstocksandice-axes，andwereclimbingameekandlowlymanure-pilewithamostblood-curdlingamountofcareandcaution。
　　The"guide"attheheadofthelinecutimaginarysteps，inalaboriousandpainstakingway，andnotamonkeybudgedtillthestepabovewasvacated。Ifwehadwaitedweshouldhavewitnessedanimaginaryaccident，nodoubt；
　　andweshouldhaveheardtheintrepidbandhurrahwhentheymadethesummitandlookedarounduponthe"magnificentview，"
　　andseenthemthrowthemselvesdowninexhaustedattitudesforarestinthatcommandingsituation。
　　InNevadaIusedtoseethechildrenplayatsilver-mining。
　　Ofcourse，thegreatthingwasanaccidentinamine，andthereweretwo"star"parts；thatofthemanwhofelldownthemimicshaft，andthatofthedaringherowhowasloweredintothedepthstobringhimup。
　　IknewonesmallchapwhoalwaysinsistedonplayingBOTHoftheseparts——andhecarriedhispoint。
　　Hewouldtumbleintotheshaftanddie，andthencometothesurfaceandgobackafterhisownremains。
　　Itisthesmartestboythatgetstheheroparteverywhere；
　　heisheadguideinSwitzerland，headminerinNevada，headbull-fighterinSpain，etc。；butIknewapreacher'sson，sevenyearsold，whoonceselectedapartforhimselfcomparedtowhichthosejustmentionedaretameandunimpressive。
　　Jimmy'sfatherstoppedhimfromdrivingimaginaryhorse-carsoneSunday——stoppedhimfromplayingcaptainofanimaginarysteamboatnextSunday——stoppedhimfromleadinganimaginaryarmytobattlethefollowingSunday——andsoon。Finallythelittlefellowsaid:
　　"I'vetriedeverything，andtheywon'tanyofthemdo。
　　WhatCANIplay?"
　　"Ihardlyknow，Jimmy；butyouMUSTplayonlythingsthataresuitabletotheSabbath-day。"
　　NextSundaythepreachersteppedsoftlytoaback-roomdoortoseeifthechildrenwererightlyemployed。
　　Hepeepedin。Achairoccupiedthemiddleoftheroom，andonthebackofithungJimmy'scap；oneofhislittlesisterstookthecapdown，nibbledatit，thenpassedittoanothersmallsisterandsaid，"Eatofthisfruit，foritisgood。"TheReverendtookinthesituation——alas，theywereplayingtheExpulsionfromEden!Yethefoundonelittlecrumbofcomfort。Hesaidtohimself，"ForonceJimmyhasyieldedthechiefrole——Ihavebeenwronginghim，Ididnotbelievetherewassomuchmodestyinhim；
　　IshouldhaveexpectedhimtobeeitherAdamorEve。"
　　Thiscrumbofcomfortlastedbutaverylittlewhile；
　　heglancedaroundanddiscoveredJimmystandinginanimposingattitudeinacorner，withadarkanddeadlyfrownonhisface。Whatthatmeantwasveryplain——HEWAS
　　IMPERSONATINGTHEDEITY!Thinkoftheguilelesssublimityofthatidea。
　　WereachedVispachat8P。M。，onlyaboutsevenhoursoutfromSt。Nicholas。Sowemusthavemadefullyamileandahalfanhour，anditwasalldownhill，too，andverymuddyatthat。WestayedallnightattheHo^teldeSoleil；Irememberitbecausethelandlady，theportier，thewaitress，andthechambermaidwerenotseparatepersons，butwereallcontainedinoneneatandchippersuitofspotlessmuslin，andshewastheprettiestyoungcreatureIsawinallthatregion。Shewasthelandlord'sdaughter。AndIrememberthattheonlynativematchtoherIsawinallEuropewastheyoungdaughterofthelandlordofavillageinnintheBlackForest。
　　Whydon'tmorepeopleinEuropemarryandkeephotel?
　　NextmorningweleftwithafamilyofEnglishfriendsandwentbytraintoBrevet，andthencebyboatacrossthelaketoOuchyLausanne。
　　Ouchyismemorabletome，notonaccountofitsbeautifulsituationandlovelysurroundings——althoughthesewouldmakeitsticklonginone'smemory——butastheplacewhere_I_caughttheLondonTIMESdroppingintohumor。
　　ItwasNOTawareofit，though。Itdidnotdoitonpurpose。
　　AnEnglishfriendcalledmyattentiontothislapse，andcutoutthereprehensibleparagraphforme。Thinkofencounteringagrinlikethisonthefaceofthatgrimjournal:
　　ERRATUM——WearerequestedbyReuter'sTelegramCompanytocorrectanerroneousannouncementmadeintheirBrisbanetelegramofthe2dinst。，publishedinourimpressionofthe5thinst。，statingthat"LadyKennedyhadgivenbirthtotwins，theeldestbeingason。"TheCompanyexplainthatthemessagetheyreceivedcontainedthewords"GovernorofQueensland，TWINSFIRSTSON。"Being，however，subsequentlyinformedthatSirArthurKennedywasunmarriedandthattheremustbesomemistake，atelegraphicrepetitionwasatoncedemanded。Ithasbeenreceivedtoday11thinst。
　　andshowsthatthewordsreallytelegraphedbyReuter'sagentwere"GovernorQueenslandTURNSFIRSTSOD，"
　　alludingtotheMaryborough-GympicRailwayincourseofconstruction。ThewordsinitalicsweremutilatedbythetelegraphintransmissionfromAustralia，andreachingthecompanyintheformmentionedabovegaverisetothemistake。
　　Ihadalwayshadadeepandreverentcompassionforthesufferingsofthe"prisonerofChillon，"
　　whosestoryByronhadtoldinsuchmovingverse；soItookthesteamerandmadepilgrimagetothedungeonsoftheCastleofChillon，toseetheplacewherepoorBonnivardenduredhisdrearycaptivitythreehundredyearsago。
　　IamgladIdidthat，forittookawaysomeofthepainIwasfeelingontheprisoner'saccount。Hisdungeonwasanice，cool，roomyplace，andIcannotseewhyheshouldhavebeendissatisfiedwithit。IfhehadbeenimprisonedinaSt。Nicholasprivatedwelling，wherethefertilizerprevails，andthegoatsleepswiththeguest，andthechickensroostonhimandthecowcomesinandbothershimwhenhewantstomuse，itwouldhavebeenanothermatteraltogether；buthesurelycouldnothavehadaverycheerlesstimeofitinthatprettydungeon。
　　Ithasromanticwindow-slitsthatletingenerousbarsoflight，andithastall，noblecolumns，carvedapparentlyfromthelivingrock；andwhatismore，theyarewrittenalloverwiththousandsofnames；someofthem——likeByron'sandVictorHugo's——ofthefirstcelebrity。
　　Whydidn'theamusehimselfreadingthesenames?Thentherearethecouriersandtourists——swarmsofthemeveryday——whatwastohinderhimfromhavingagoodtimewiththem?IthinkBonnivard'ssufferingshavebeenoverrated。
　　Next，wetookthetrainandwenttoMartigny，onthewaytoMontBlanc。Nextmorningwestarted，abouteighto'clock，onfoot。Wehadplentyofcompany，inthewayofwagon-loadsandmule-loadsoftourists——anddust。
　　Thisscatteringprocessionoftravelerswasperhapsamilelong。Theroadwasuphill——interminableuphill——andtolerablysteep。Theweatherwasblisteringlyhot，andthemanorwomanwhohadtositonacreepingmule，orinacrawlingwagon，andbroilinthebeatingsun，wasanobjecttobepitied。Wecoulddodgeamongthebushes，andhavethereliefofshade，butthosepeoplecouldnot。
　　Theypaidforaconveyance，andtogettheirmoney'sworththeyrode。
　　WewentbythewayoftheTe^teNoir，andafterwereachedhighgroundtherewasnolackoffinescenery。
　　Inoneplacetheroadwastunneledthroughashoulderofthemountain；fromthereonelookeddownintoagorgewitharushingtorrentinit，andoneveryhandwasacharmingviewofrockybuttressesandwoodedheights。
　　Therewasaliberalallowanceofprettywaterfalls，too，ontheTe^teNoirroute。
　　AbouthalfanhourbeforewereachedthevillageofArgentie`reavastdomeofsnowwiththesunblazingonitdriftedintoviewandframeditselfinastrongV-shapedgatewayofthemountains，andwerecognizedMontBlanc，the"monarchoftheAlps。"Witheverystep，afterthat，thisstatelydomerosehigherandhigherintothebluesky，andatlastseemedtooccupythezenith。
　　SomeofMontBlanc'sneighbors——bare，light-brown，steeplelikerocks——wereverypeculiarlyshaped。Somewerewhittledtoasharppoint，andslightlybentattheupperend，likealady'sfinger；onemonstersugar-loafresembledabishop'shat；itwastoosteeptoholdsnowonitssides，buthadsomeinthedivision。
　　Whilewewerestillonveryhighground，andbeforethedescenttowardArgentie`rebegan，welookeduptowardaneighboringmountain-top，andsawexquisiteprismaticcolorsplayingaboutsomewhitecloudswhichweresodelicateastoalmostresemblegossamerwebs。
　　Thefaintpinksandgreenswerepeculiarlybeautiful；
　　noneofthecolorsweredeep，theywerethelightestshades。
　　Theywerebewitchingcommingled。Wesatdowntostudyandenjoythissingularspectacle。Thetintsremainedduringseveralminutes——fitting，changing，meltingintoeachother；
　　palingalmostawayforamoment，thenreflushing——ashifting，restless，unstablesuccessionofsoftopalinegleams，shimmeringoverthatairfilmofwhitecloud，andturningitintoafabricdaintyenoughtoclotheanangelwith。
　　Byandbyweperceivedwhatthosesuper-delicatecolors，andtheircontinuousplayandmovement，remindedusof；
　　itiswhatoneseesinasoap-bubblethatisdriftingalong，catchingchangesoftintfromtheobjectsitpasses。
　　Asoap-bubbleisthemostbeautifulthing，andthemostexquisite，innature；thatlovelyphantomfabricintheskywassuggestiveofasoap-bubblesplitopen，andspreadoutinthesun。Iwonderhowmuchitwouldtaketobuyasoap-bubble，iftherewasonlyoneintheworld?
　　OnecouldbuyahatfulofKoh-i-Noorswiththesamemoney，nodoubt。
　　WemadethetrampfromMartignytoArgentie`reineighthours。
　　Webeatallthemulesandwagons；wedidn'tusuallydothat。
　　Wehiredasortofopenbaggage-wagonforthetripdownthevalleytoChamonix，andthendevotedanhourtodining。
　　Thisgavethedrivertimetogetdrunk。Hehadafriendwithhim，andthisfriendalsohadhadtimetogetdrunk。
　　Whenwedroveoff，thedriversaidallthetouristshadarrivedandgonebywhilewewereatdinner；"but，"saidhe，impressively，"benotdisturbedbythat——remaintranquil——giveyourselvesnouneasiness——theirdustrisesfarbeforeus——
　　restyoutranquil，leavealltome——Iamthekingofdrivers。
　　Behold!"
　　Downcamehiswhip，andawayweclattered。Ineverhadsuchashakingupinmylife。Therecentfloodingrainshadwashedtheroadclearawayinplaces，butweneverstopped，weneversloweddownforanything。Wetorerightalong，overrocks，rubbish，gullies，openfields——sometimeswithoneortwowheelsontheground，butgenerallywithnone。
　　Everynowandthenthatcalm，good-naturedmadmanwouldbendamajesticlookoverhisshoulderatusandsay，"Ah，youperceive?ItisasIhavesaid——Iamthekingofdrivers。"Everytimewejustmissedgoingtodestruction，hewouldsay，withtranquilhappiness，"Enjoyit，gentlemen，itisveryrare，itisveryunusual——
　　itisgiventofewtoridewiththekingofdrivers——
　　andobserve，itisasIhavesaid，_I_amhe。"
　　HespokeinFrench，andpunctuatedwithhiccoughs。
　　HisfriendwasFrench，too，butspokeinGerman——usingthesamesystemofpunctuation，however。Thefriendcalledhimselfthe"CaptainofMontBlanc，"andwantedustomaketheascentwithhim。Hesaidhehadmademoreascentsthananyotherman——fortyseven——andhisbrotherhadmadethirty-seven。Hisbrotherwasthebestguideintheworld，excepthimself——buthe，yes，observehimwell——hewasthe"CaptainofMontBlanc"——thattitlebelongedtononeother。
　　The"king"wasasgoodashisword——heovertookthatlongprocessionoftouristsandwentbyitlikeahurricane。
　　TheresultwasthatwegotchoicerroomsatthehotelinChamonixthanweshouldhavedoneifhismajestyhadbeenaslowerartist——orrather，ifhehadn'tmostprovidentiallygotdrunkbeforeheleftArgentie`re。
　　CHAPTERXLIII
　　[MyPoorSickFriendDisappointed]
　　Everybodywasout-of-doors；everybodywasintheprincipalstreetofthevillage——notonthesidewalks，butalloverthestreet；everybodywaslounging，loafing，chatting，waiting，alert，expectant，interested——foritwastrain-time。Thatistosay，itwasdiligence-time——
　　thehalf-dozenbigdiligenceswouldsoonbearrivingfromGeneva，andthevillagewasinterested，inmanyways，inknowinghowmanypeoplewerecomingandwhatsortoffolktheymightbe。Itwasaltogetherthelivest-lookingstreetwehadseeninanyvillageonthecontinent。
　　Thehotelwasbythesideofaboomingtorrent，whosemusicwasloudandstrong；wecouldnotseethistorrent，foritwasdark，now，butonecouldlocateitwithoutalight。
　　Therewasalargeenclosedyardinfrontofthehotel，andthiswasfilledwithgroupsofvillagerswaitingtoseethediligencesarrive，ortohirethemselvestoexcursionistsforthemorrow。Atelescopestoodintheyard，withitshugebarrelcanteduptowardthelustrouseveningstar。
　　Thelongporchofthehotelwaspopulouswithtourists，whosatinshawlsandwrapsunderthevastovershadowingbulkofMontBlanc，andgossipedormeditated。
　　Neverdidamountainseemsoclose；itsbigsidesseemedatone'sveryelbow，anditsmajesticdome，andtheloftyclusterofslenderminaretsthatwereitsneighbors，seemedtobealmostoverone'shead。Itwasnightinthestreets，andthelampsweresparklingeverywhere；
　　thebroadbasesandshouldersofthemountainswereinadeepgloom，buttheirsummitsswaminastrangerichglowwhichwasreallydaylight，andyethadamellowsomethingaboutitwhichwasverydifferentfromthehardwhiteglareofthekindofdaylightIwasusedto。
　　Itsradiancewasstrongandclear，butatthesametimeitwassingularlysoft，andspiritual，andbenignant。
　　No，itwasnotourharsh，aggressive，realisticdaylight；
　　itseemedproperertoanenchantedland——ortoheaven。
　　Ihadseenmoonlightanddaylighttogetherbefore，butI
　　hadnotseendaylightandblacknightelbowtoelbowbefore。
　　AtleastIhadnotseenthedaylightrestinguponanobjectsufficientlycloseathand，before，tomakethecontraststartlingandatwarwithnature。
　　Thedaylightpassedaway。Presentlythemoonroseupbehindsomeofthosesky-piercingfingersorpinnaclesofbarerockofwhichIhavespoken——theywerealittletotheleftofthecrestofMontBlanc，andrightoverourheads——butshecouldn'tmanagetoclimbhighenoughtowardheaventogetentirelyabovethem。
　　Shewouldshowtheglitteringarchofherupperthird，occasionally，andscrapeitalongbehindthecomblikerow；
　　sometimesapinnaclestoodstraightup，likeastatuetteofebony，againstthatglitteringwhiteshield，thenseemedtoglideoutofitbyitsownvolitionandpower，andbecomeadimspecter，whilethenextpinnacleglidedintoitsplaceandblottedthespotlessdiskwiththeblackexclamation-pointofitspresence。Thetopofonepinnacletooktheshapely，clean-cutformofarabbit'shead，intheinkiestsilhouette，whileitrestedagainstthemoon。
　　Theunilluminedpeaksandminarets，hoveringvagueandphantom-likeaboveuswhiletheotherswerepainfullywhiteandstrongwithsnowandmoonlight，madeapeculiareffect。