H。YouareaGUESTinsuchplaces?
G。S。Andawelcomingone。
H。Itissurprising。Howdoesitcome?
G。S。Mygrandfather'snameisapassporttoallthecourtsinEurope。Ihaveonlytoutterthatnameandeverydoorisopentome。Iflitfromcourttocourtatmyownfreewillandpleasure，andamalwayswelcome。
IamasmuchathomeinthepalacesofEuropeasyouareamongyourrelatives。IknoweverytitledpersoninEurope，Ithink。Ihavemypocketsfullofinvitationsallthetime。
IamunderpromisetogotoItaly，whereIamtobetheguestofasuccessionofthenoblesthousesintheland。
InBerlinmylifeisacontinuedroundofgaietyintheimperialpalace。Itisthesame，whereverIgo。
H。Itmustbeverypleasant。ButitmustmakeBostonseemalittleslowwhenyouareathome。
G。S。Yes，ofcourseitdoes。ButIdon'tgohomemuch。
There'snolifethere——littletofeedaman'shighernature。
Boston'sverynarrow，youknow。Shedoesn'tknowit，andyoucouldn'tconvinceherofit——soIsaynothingwhenI'mthere:where'stheuse?Yes，Bostonisverynarrow，butshehassuchagoodopinionofherselfthatshecan'tseeit。
AmanwhohastraveledasmuchasIhave，andseenasmuchoftheworld，seesitplainenough，buthecan'tcureit，youknow，sothebestistoleaveitandseekaspherewhichismoreinharmonywithhistastesandculture。
Irunacrossthere，oneayear，perhaps，whenIhavenothingimportantonhand，butI'mverysoonbackagain。
IspendmytimeinEurope。
H。Isee。Youmapoutyourplansand……
G。S。No，excuseme。Idon'tmapoutanyplans。Isimplyfollowtheinclinationoftheday。Iamlimitedbynoties，norequirements，Iamnotboundinanyway。Iamtoooldatravelertohampermyselfwithdeliberatepurposes。
Iamsimplyatraveler——aninveteratetraveler——amanoftheworld，inaword——Icancallmyselfbynoothername。
Idonotsay，"Iamgoinghere，orIamgoingthere"——I
saynothingatall，Ionlyact。Forinstance，nextweekyoumayfindmetheguestofagrandeeofSpain，oryoumayfindmeoffforVenice，orflittingtowardDresden。
IshallprobablygotoEgyptpresently；friendswillsaytofriends，"HeisattheNilecataracts"——andatthatverymomenttheywillbesurprisedtolearnthatI'mawayoffyonderinIndiasomewhere。Iamaconstantsurprisetopeople。Theyarealwayssaying，"Yes，hewasinJerusalemwhenweheardofhimlast，butgoodnessknowswhereheisnow。"
PresentlytheGrandsonrosetoleave——discoveredhehadanappointmentwithsomeEmperor，perhaps。Hedidhisgracesoveragain:grippedmewithonetalon，atarm's-length，pressedhishatagainsthisstomachwiththeother，benthisbodyinthemiddlethreetimes，murmuring:
"Pleasure，'msure；greatpleasure，'msure。Wishyoumuchsuccess。"
Thenheremovedhisgraciouspresence。Itisagreatandsolemnthingtohaveagrandfather。
Ihavenotpurposedtomisrepresentthisboyinanyway，forwhatlittleindignationheexcitedinmesoonpassedandleftnothingbehinditbutcompassion。
Onecannotkeepupagrudgeagainstavacuum。
Ihavetriedtorepeatthislad'sverywords；
ifIhavefailedanywhereIhaveatleastnotfailedtoreproducethemarrowandmeaningofwhathesaid。
HeandtheinnocentchatterboxwhomImetontheSwisslakearethemostuniqueandinterestingspecimensofYoungAmericaIcameacrossduringmyforeigntramping。
Ihavemadehonestportraitsofthem，notcaricatures。
TheGrandsonoftwenty-threereferredtohimselffiveorsixtimesasan"oldtraveler，"andasmanyasthreetimeswithaserenecomplacencywhichwasmaddening
asa"manoftheworld。"TherewassomethingverydeliciousabouthisleavingBostontoher"narrowness，"unreprovedanduninstructed。
Iformedthecaravaninmarchingorder，presently，andafterridingdownthelinetoseethatitwasproperlyropedtogether，gavethecommandtoproceed。
Inalittlewhiletheroadcarriedustoopen，grassyland。
Wewereabovethetroublesomeforest，now，andhadanuninterruptedview，straightbeforeus，ofoursummit——
thesummitoftheRiffelberg。
Wefollowedthemule-road，azigzagcourse，nowtotheright，nowtotheleft，butalwaysup，andalwayscrowdedandincommodedbygoingandcomingfilesofrecklesstouristswhowerenever，inasingleinstance，tiedtogether。
Iwasobligedtoexerttheutmostcareandcaution，forinmanyplacestheroadwasnottwoyardswide，andoftenthelowersideofitslopedawayinslantingprecipiceseightandevenninefeetdeep。Ihadtoencouragethemenconstantly，tokeepthemfromgivingwaytotheirunmanlyfears。
Wemighthavemadethesummitbeforenight，butforadelaycausedbythelossofanumbrella。Iwasallowingtheumbrellatoremainlost，butthemenmurmured，andwithreason，forinthisexposedregionwestoodinpeculiarneedofprotectionagainstavalanches；
soIwentintocampanddetachedastrongpartytogoafterthemissingarticle。
Thedifficultiesofthenextmorningweresevere，butourcouragewashigh，forourgoalwasnear。
Atnoonweconqueredthelastimpediment——westoodatlastuponthesummit，andwithoutthelossofasinglemanexceptthemulethatatetheglycerin。
Ourgreatachievementwasachieved——thepossibilityoftheimpossiblewasdemonstrated，andHarrisandIwalkedproudlyintothegreatdining-roomoftheRiffelbergHotelandstoodouralpenstocksupinthecorner。
Yes，Ihadmadethegrandascent；butitwasamistaketodoitineveningdress。Theplughatswerebattered，theswallow-tailswereflutteringrags，mudaddednograce，thegeneraleffectwasunpleasantandevendisreputable。
Therewereaboutseventy-fivetouristsatthehotel——
mainlyladiesandlittlechildren——andtheygaveusanadmiringwelcomewhichpaidusforallourprivationsandsufferings。Theascenthadbeenmade，andthenamesanddatesnowstandrecordedonastonemonumenttheretoproveittoallfuturetourists。
Iboiledathermometerandtookanaltitude，withamostcuriousresult:THESUMMITWASNOTASHIGHASTHEPOINTON
THEMOUNTAINSIDEWHEREIHADTAKENTHEFIRSTALTITUDE。
SuspectingthatIhadmadeanimportantdiscovery，Ipreparedtoverifyit。TherehappenedtobeastillhighersummitcalledtheGornerGrat，abovethehotel，andnotwithstandingthefactthatitoverlooksaglacierfromadizzyheight，andthattheascentisdifficultanddangerous，Iresolvedtoventureupthereandboilathermometer。SoIsentastrongparty，withsomeborrowedhoes，inchargeoftwochiefsofservice，todigastairwayinthesoilallthewayup，andthisIascended，ropedtotheguides。Thisbreezyheightwasthesummitproper——soIaccomplishedevenmorethanIhadoriginallypurposedtodo。Thisfoolhardyexploitisrecordedonanotherstonemonument。
Iboiledmythermometer，andsureenough，thisspot，whichpurportedtobetwothousandfeethigherthanthelocalityofthehotel，turnedouttobeninethousandfeetLOWER。Thusthefactwasclearlydemonstratedthat，ABOVEACERTAINPOINT，THEHIGHERAPOINTSEEMSTOBE，THELOWERITACTUALLYIS。Ourascentitselfwasagreatachievement，butthiscontributiontosciencewasaninconceivablygreatermatter。
Cavilersobjectthatwaterboilsatalowerandlowertemperaturethehigherandhigheryougo，andhencetheapparentanomaly。IanswerthatIdonotbasemytheoryuponwhattheboilingwaterdoes，butuponwhataboiledthermometersays。Youcan'tgobehindthethermometer。
IhadamagnificentviewofMonteRosa，andapparentlyalltherestoftheAlpineworld，fromthathighplace。
Allthecirclinghorizonwaspiledhighwithamightytumultofsnowycrests。OnemighthaveimaginedhesawbeforehimthetentedcampsofabeleagueringhostofBrobdingnagians。
Butlonely，conspicuous，andsuperb，rosethatwonderfuluprightwedge，theMatterhorn。Itsprecipitoussideswerepowderedoverwithsnow，andtheupperhalfhiddeninthickcloudswhichnowandthendissolvedtocobwebfilmsandgavebriefglimpsesoftheimposingtowerasthroughaveil。
[2]AlittlelatertheMatterhorntooktohimselfthesemblanceofavolcano；hewasstrippednakedtohisapex——
aroundthiscircledvastwreathsofwhitecloudwhichstrungslowlyoutandstreamedawayslantwisetowardthesun，atwenty-milestretchofrollingandtumblingvapor，andlookingjustasifitwerepouringoutofacrater。
Lateragain，oneofthemountain'ssideswascleanandclear，andanothersidedenselyclothedfrombasetosummitinthicksmokelikecloudwhichfeatheredoffandflewaroundtheshaft'ssharpedgelikethesmokearoundthecornersofaburningbuilding。TheMatterhornisalwaysexperimenting，andalwaysgetsupfineeffects，too。Inthesunset，whenallthelowerworldispalledingloom，itpointstowardheavenoutofthepervadingblacknesslikeafingeroffire。Inthesunrise——well，theysayitisveryfineinthesunrise。
2。NOTE——IhadtheveryunusuallucktocatchonelittlemomentaryglimpseoftheMatterhornwhollyunencumberedbyclouds。Ileveledmyphotographicapparatusatitwithoutthelossofaninstant，andshouldhavegotanelegantpictureifmydonkeyhadnotinterfered。
Itwasmypurposetodrawthisphotographallbymyselfformybook，butwasobligedtoputthemountainpartofitintothehandsoftheprofessionalartistbecauseIfoundIcouldnotdolandscapewell。
Authoritiesagreethatthereisnosuchtremendous"layout"
ofsnowyAlpinemagnitude，grandeur，andsublimitytobeseenfromanyotheraccessiblepointasthetouristmayseefromthesummitoftheRiffelberg。Therefore，letthetouristropehimselfupandgothere；forIhaveshownthatwithnerve，caution，andjudgment，thethingcanbedone。
Iwishtoaddoneremark，here——inparentheses，sotospeak——suggestedbytheword"snowy，"whichIhavejustused。
Wehaveallseenhillsandmountainsandlevelswithsnowonthem，andsowethinkweknowalltheaspectsandeffectsproducedbysnow。ButindeedwedonotuntilwehaveseentheAlps。Possiblymassanddistanceaddsomething——atanyrate，somethingISadded。Amongothernoticeablethings，thereisadazzling，intensewhitenessaboutthedistantAlpinesnow，whenthesunisonit，whichonerecognizesaspeculiar，andnotfamiliartotheeye。Thesnowwhichoneisaccustomedtohasatinttoit——paintersusuallygiveitabluishcast——butthereisnoperceptibletinttothedistantAlpinesnowwhenitistryingtolookitswhitest。Astotheunimaginablesplendorofitwhenthesunisblazingdownonit——well，itsimplyISunimaginable。
CHAPTERXXXIX
[WeTravelbyGlacier]
Aguide-bookisaqueerthing。ThereaderhasjustseenwhatamanwhoundertakesthegreatascentfromZermatttotheRiffelbergHotelmustexperience。YetBaedekermakesthesestrangestatementsconcerningthismatter:
1。Distance——3hours。
2。Theroadcannotbemistaken。
3。Guideunnecessary。
4。DistancefromRiffelbergHoteltotheGornerGrat，onehourandahalf。
5。Ascentsimpleandeasy。Guideunnecessary。
6。ElevationofZermattabovesea-level，5，315feet。
7。ElevationofRiffelbergHotelabovesea-level，8，429feet。
8。ElevationoftheGornerGratabovesea-level，10，289feet。
Ihaveprettyeffectuallythrottledtheseerrorsbysendinghimthefollowingdemonstratedfacts:
1。DistancefromZermatttoRiffelbergHotel，7days。
2。TheroadCANbemistaken。IfIamthefirstthatdidit，Iwantthecreditofit，too。
3。GuidesAREnecessary，fornonebutanativecanreadthosefinger-boards。
4。Theestimateoftheelevationoftheseverallocalitiesabovesea-levelisprettycorrect——forBaedeker。
Heonlymissesitaboutahundredandeightyorninetythousandfeet。
Ifoundmyarnicainvaluable。Mymenweresufferingexcruciatingly，fromthefrictionofsittingdownsomuch。
Duringtwoorthreedays，notoneofthemwasabletodomorethanliedownorwalkabout；yetsoeffectivewasthearnica，thatonthefourthallwereabletositup。
Iconsiderthat，morethantoanythingelse，Iowethesuccessofourgreatundertakingtoarnicaandparegoric。
Mymenarebeingrestoredtohealthandstrength，mymainperplexity，now，washowtogetthemdownthemountainagain。Iwasnotwillingtoexposethebravefellowstotheperils，fatigues，andhardshipsofthatfearfulrouteagainifitcouldbehelped。
FirstIthoughtofballoons；but，ofcourse，Ihadtogivethatideaup，forballoonswerenotprocurable。
Ithoughtofseveralotherexpedients，butuponconsiderationdiscardedthem，forcause。ButatlastIhitit。Iwasawarethatthemovementofglaciersisanestablishedfact，forIhadreaditinBaedeker；
soIresolvedtotakepassageforZermattonthegreatGornerGlacier。
Verygood。Thenextthingwas，howtogetdowntheglaciercomfortably——forthemule-roadtoitwaslong，andwinding，andwearisome。Isetmymindatwork，andsoonthoughtoutaplan。OnelooksstraightdownuponthevastfrozenrivercalledtheGornerGlacier，fromtheGornerGrat，asheerprecipicetwelvehundredfeethigh。Wehadonehundredandfifty-fourumbrellas——
andwhatisanumbrellabutaparachute?
ImentionedthisnobleideatoHarris，withenthusiasm，andwasabouttoordertheExpeditiontoformontheGornerGrat，withtheirumbrellas，andprepareforflightbyplatoons，eachplatoonincommandofaguide，whenHarrisstoppedmeandurgedmenottobetoohasty。
HeaskedmeifthismethodofdescendingtheAlpshadeverbeentriedbefore。Isaidno，Ihadnotheardofaninstance。Then，inhisopinion，itwasamatterofconsiderablegravity；inhisopinionitwouldnotbewelltosendthewholecommandoverthecliffatonce；
abetterwaywouldbetosenddownasingleindividual，first，andseehowhefared。
Isawthewisdominthisideainstantly。Isaidasmuch，andthankedmyagentcordially，andtoldhimtotakehisumbrellaandtrythethingrightaway，andwavehishatwhenhegotdown，ifhestruckinasoftplace，andthenIwouldshiptherestrightalong。
Harriswasgreatlytouchedwiththismarkofconfidence，andsaidso，inavoicethathadaperceptibletrembleinit；
butatthesametimehesaidhedidnotfeelhimselfworthyofsoconspicuousafavor；thatitmightcausejealousyinthecommand，fortherewereplentywhowouldnothesitatetosayhehadusedunderhandedmeanstogettheappointment，whereashisconsciencewouldbearhimwitnessthathehadnotsoughtitatall，noreven，inhissecretheart，desiredit。
Isaidthesewordsdidhimextremecredit，butthathemustnotthrowawaytheimperishabledistinctionofbeingthefirstmantodescendanAlpperparachute，simplytosavethefeelingsofsomeenviousunderlings。No，Isaid，heMUSTaccepttheappointment——itwasnolongeraninvitation，itwasacommand。
Hethankedmewitheffusion，andsaidthatputtingthethinginthisformremovedeveryobjection。
Heretired，andsoonreturnedwithhisumbrella，hiseyeflamingwithgratitudeandhischeekspallidwithjoy。
Justthentheheadguidepassedalong。Harris'sexpressionchangedtooneofinfinitetenderness，andhesaid:
"Thatmandidmeacruelinjuryfourdaysago，andI
saidinmyheartheshouldlivetoperceiveandconfessthattheonlynoblerevengeamancantakeuponhisenemyistoreturngoodforevil。Iresigninhisfavor。
Appointhim。"
Ithrewmyarmsaroundthegenerousfellowandsaid:
"Harris，youarethenoblestsoulthatlives。Youshallnotregretthissublimeact，neithershalltheworldfailtoknowofit。Youshallhaveopportunityfartranscendingthisone，too，ifIlive——rememberthat。"
Icalledtheheadguidetomeandappointedhimonthespot。Butthethingarousednoenthusiasminhim。
Hedidnottaketotheideaatall。
Hesaid:
"TiemyselftoanumbrellaandjumpovertheGornerGrat!Excuseme，thereareagreatmanypleasanterroadstothedevilthanthat。"
Uponadiscussionofthesubjectwithhim，itappearedthatheconsideredtheprojectdistinctlyanddecidedlydangerous。
Iwasnotconvinced，yetIwasnotwillingtotrytheexperimentinanyriskyway——thatis，inawaythatmightcripplethestrengthandefficiencyoftheExpedition。
Iwasaboutatmywits'endwhenitoccurredtometotryitontheLatinist。
Hewascalledin。Buthedeclined，onthepleaofinexperience，diffidenceinpublic，lackofcuriosity，andIdidn'tknowwhatall。Anothermandeclinedonaccountofacoldinthehead；thoughtheoughttoavoidexposure。Anothercouldnotjumpwell——neverCOULDjumpwell——didnotbelievehecouldjumpsofarwithoutlongandpatientpractice。Anotherwasafraiditwasgoingtorain，andhisumbrellahadaholeinit。
Everybodyhadanexcuse。Theresultwaswhatthereaderhasbythistimeguessed:themostmagnificentideathatwaseverconceivedhadtobeabandoned，fromsheerlackofapersonwithenterpriseenoughtocarryitout。
Yes，Iactuallyhadtogivethatthingup——whiledoubtlessIshouldlivetoseesomebodyuseitandtakeallthecreditfromme。
Well，Ihadtogooverland——therewasnootherway。
ImarchedtheExpeditiondownthesteepandtediousmule-pathandtookupasgoodapositionasIcoulduponthemiddleoftheglacier——becauseBaedekersaidthemiddleparttravelsthefastest。Asameasureofeconomy，however，Iputsomeoftheheavierbaggageontheshorewardparts，togoasslowfreight。
Iwaitedandwaited，buttheglacierdidnotmove。
Nightwascomingon，thedarknessbegantogather——stillwedidnotbudge。Itoccurredtomethen，thattheremightbeatime-tableinBaedeker；itwouldbewelltofindoutthehoursofstarting。Icalledforthebook——itcouldnotbefound。Bradshawwouldcertainlycontainatime-table；
butnoBradshawcouldbefound。
Verywell，Imustmakethebestofthesituation。SoI
pitchedthetents，picketedtheanimals，milkedthecows，hadsupper，paregorickedthemen，establishedthewatch，andwenttobed——withorderstocallmeassoonaswecameinsightofZermatt。
Iawokeabouthalfpasttennextmorning，andlookedaround。
Wehadn'tbudgedapeg!AtfirstIcouldnotunderstandit；
thenitoccurredtomethattheoldthingmustbeaground。
SoIcutdownsometreesandriggedasparonthestarboardandanotherontheportside，andfooledawayupwardofthreehourstryingtosparheroff。Butitwasnouse。
Shewashalfamilewideandfifteenortwentymileslong，andtherewasnotellingjustwhereaboutssheWASaground。
Themenbegantoshowuneasiness，too，andpresentlytheycameflyingtomewithashyfaces，sayingshehadsprungaleak。
Nothingbutmycoolbehavioratthiscriticaltimesavedusfromanotherpanic。Iorderthemtoshowmetheplace。
Theyledmetoaspotwhereahugeboulderlayinadeeppoolofclearandbrilliantwater。Itdidlooklikeaprettybadleak，butIkeptthattomyself。Imadeapumpandsetthementoworktopumpouttheglacier。
Wemadeasuccessofit。Iperceived，then，thatitwasnotaleakatall。Thisboulderhaddescendedfromaprecipiceandstoppedontheiceinthemiddleoftheglacier，andthesunhadwarmeditup，everyday，andconsequentlyithadmelteditswaydeeperanddeeperintotheice，untilatlastitreposed，aswehadfoundit，inadeeppooloftheclearestandcoldestwater。
PresentlyBaedekerwasfoundagain，andIhuntedeagerlyforthetime-table。Therewasnone。Thebooksimplysaidtheglacierwasmovingallthetime。Thiswassatisfactory，soIshutupthebookandchoseagoodpositiontoviewthesceneryaswepassedalong。Istoodtheresometimeenjoyingthetrip，butatlastitoccurredtomethatwedidnotseemtobegaininganyonthescenery。Isaidtomyself，"Thisconfoundedoldthing'sagroundagain，sure，"——andopenedBaedekertoseeifIcouldrunacrossanyremedyfortheseannoyinginterruptions。Isoonfoundasentencewhichthrewadazzlinglightuponthematter。Itsaid，"TheGornerGlaciertravelsatanaveragerateofalittlelessthananinchaday。"Ihaveseldomfeltsooutraged。
Ihaveseldomhadmyconfidencesowantonlybetrayed。
Imadeasmallcalculation:Oneinchaday，saythirtyfeetayear；estimateddistancetoZermatt，threeandone-eighteenthmiles。Timerequiredtogobyglacier，ALITTLEOVERFIVEHUNDREDYEARS!Isaidtomyself，"IcanWALKitquicker——andbeforeIwillpatronizesuchafraudasthis，Iwilldoit。"
WhenIrevealedtoHarristhefactthatthepassengerpartofthisglacier——thecentralpart——thelightning-expresspart，sotospeak——wasnotdueinZermatttillthesummerof2378，andthatthebaggage，comingalongtheslowedge，wouldnotarriveuntilsomegenerationslater，heburstoutwith:
"ThatisEuropeanmanagement，allover!Aninchaday——thinkofthat!Fivehundredyearstogoatrifleoverthreemiles!
ButIamnotabitsurprised。It'saCatholicglacier。
Youcantellbythelookofit。Andthemanagement。"
Isaid，no，IbelievednothingbuttheextremeendofitwasinaCatholiccanton。
"Well，then，it'sagovernmentglacier，"saidHarris。
"It'sallthesame。Overherethegovernmentrunseverything——soeverything'sslow；slow，andill-managed。Butwithus，everything'sdonebyprivateenterprise——andthenthereain'tmuchlollingaround，youcandependonit。
IwishTomScottcouldgethishandsonthistorpidoldslabonce——you'dseeittakeadifferentgaitfromthis。"
IsaidIwassurehewouldincreasethespeed，iftherewastradeenoughtojustifyit。
"He'dMAKEtrade，"saidHarris。"That'sthedifferencebetweengovernmentsandindividuals。Governmentsdon'tcare，individualsdo。TomScottwouldtakeallthetrade；
intwoyearsGornerstockwouldgototwohundred，andinsideoftwomoreyouwouldseealltheotherglaciersunderthehammerfortaxes。"Afterareflectivepause，Harrisadded，"Alittlelessthananinchaday；alittlelessthananINCH，mindyou。Well，I'mlosingmyreverenceforglaciers。"
Iwasfeelingmuchthesamewaymyself。Ihavetraveledbycanal-boat，ox-wagon，raft，andbytheEphesusandSmyrnarailway；butwhenitcomesdowntogoodsolidhonestslowmotion，Ibetmymoneyontheglacier。
Asameansofpassengertransportation，Iconsidertheglacierafailure；butasavehicleofslowfreight，Ithinkshefillsthebill。Inthematterofputtingthefineshadesonthatlineofbusiness，IjudgeshecouldteachtheGermanssomething。
IorderedthementobreakcampandprepareforthelandjourneytoZermatt。Atthismomentamostinterestingfindwasmade；adarkobject，beddedintheglacialice，wascutoutwiththeice-axes，anditprovedtobeapieceoftheundressedskinofsomeanimal——ahairtrunk，perhaps；
butacloseinspectiondisabledthehair-trunktheory，andfurtherdiscussionandexaminationexplodeditentirely——thatis，intheopinionofallthescientistsexcepttheonewhohadadvancedit。Thisoneclungtohistheorywithaffectionatefidelitycharacteristicoforiginatorsofscientifictheories，andafterwardwonmanyofthefirstscientistsoftheagetohisview，byaveryablepamphletwhichhewrote，entitled，"Evidencesgoingtoshowthatthehairtrunk，inawildstate，belongedtotheearlyglacialperiod，androamedthewastesofchaosinthecompanywiththecave-bear，primevalman，andtheotherOo"liticsoftheOldSilurianfamily。"
Eachofourscientistshadatheoryofhisown，andputforwardananimalofhisownasacandidatefortheskin。
IsidedwiththegeologistoftheExpeditioninthebeliefthatthispatchofskinhadoncehelpedtocoveraSiberianelephant，insomeoldforgottenage——butwedividedthere，thegeologistbelievingthatthisdiscoveryprovedthatSiberiahadformerlybeenlocatedwhereSwitzerlandisnow，whereasIheldtheopinionthatitmerelyprovedthattheprimevalSwisswasnotthedullsavageheisrepresentedtohavebeen，butwasabeingofhighintellectualdevelopment，wholikedtogotothemenagerie。
Wearrivedthatevening，aftermanyhardshipsandadventures，insomefieldsclosetothegreatice-archwherethemadVispboilsandsurgesoutfromunderthefootofthegreatGornerGlacier，andherewecamped，ourperilsoverandourmagnificentundertakingsuccessfullycompleted。
WemarchedintoZermattthenextday，andwerereceivedwiththemostlavishhonorsandapplause。Adocument，signedandsealedbytheauthorities，wasgiventomewhichestablishedandendorsedthefactthatIhadmadetheascentoftheRiffelberg。ThisIweararoundmyneck，anditwillbeburiedwithmewhenIamnomore。
CHAPTERXL
[PiteousRelicsatChamonix]
Iamnotsoignorantaboutglacialmovement，now，asI
waswhenItookpassageontheGornerGlacier。
Ihave"readup"since。Iamawarethatthesevastbodiesoficedonottravelatthesamerateofspeed；
whiletheGornerGlaciermakeslessthananinchaday，theUnter-AarGlaciermakesasmuchaseight；andstillotherglaciersaresaidtogotwelve，sixteen，andeventwentyinchesaday。Onewritersaysthattheslowestglaciertravelstwenty-givefeetayear，andthefastestfourhundred。
Whatisaglacier?Itiseasytosayitlookslikeafrozenriverwhichoccupiesthebedofawindinggorgeorgullybetweenmountains。Butthatgivesnonotionofitsvastness。Foritissometimessixhundredfeetthick，andwearenotaccustomedtoriverssixhundredfeetdeep；no，ourriversaresixfeet，twentyfeet，andsometimesfiftyfeetdeep；wearenotquiteabletograspsolargeafactasanice-riversixhundredfeetdeep。
Theglacier'ssurfaceisnotsmoothandlevel，buthasdeepswalesandswellingelevations，andsometimeshasthelookofatossingseawhoseturbulentbillowswerefrozenhardintheinstantoftheirmostviolentmotion；
theglacier'ssurfaceisnotaflawlessmass，butisariverwithcracksorcrevices，somenarrow，somegapingwide。
Manyaman，thevictimofasliporamisstep，hasplungeddownonoftheseandmethisdeath。Menhavebeenfishedoutofthemalive；butitwaswhentheydidnotgotoagreatdepth；thecoldofthegreatdepthswouldquicklystupefyaman，whetherhewashurtorunhurt。
Thesecracksdonotgostraightdown；onecanseldomseemorethantwentytofortyfeetdownthem；consequentlymenwhohavedisappearedinthemhavebeensoughtfor，inthehopethattheyhadstoppedwithinhelpingdistance，whereastheircase，inmostinstances，hadreallybeenhopelessfromthebeginning。
In1864apartyoftouristswasdescendingMontBlanc，andwhilepickingtheirwayoveroneofthemightyglaciersofthatloftyregion，ropedtogether，aswasproper，ayoungporterdisengagedhimselffromthelineandstartedacrossanice-bridgewhichspannedacrevice。
Itbrokeunderhimwithacrash，andhedisappeared。
Theotherscouldnotseehowdeephehadgone，soitmightbeworthwhiletotryandrescuehim。AbraveyoungguidenamedMichelPayotvolunteered。
Tworopesweremadefasttohisleatherbeltandheboretheendofathirdoneinhishandtotietothevictimincasehefoundhim。Hewasloweredintothecrevice，hedescendeddeeperanddeeperbetweentheclearbluewallsofsolidice，heapproachedabendinthecrackanddisappearedunderit。Down，andstilldown，hewent，intothisprofoundgrave；whenhehadreachedadepthofeightyfeethepassedunderanotherbendinthecrack，andthencedescendedeightyfeetlower，asbetweenperpendicularprecipices。Arrivedatthisstageofonehundredandsixtyfeetbelowthesurfaceoftheglacier，hepeeredthroughthetwilightdimnessandperceivedthatthechasmtookanotherturnandstretchedawayatasteepslanttounknowndeeps，foritscoursewaslostindarkness。Whataplacethatwastobein——especiallyifthatleatherbeltshouldbreak!Thecompressionofthebeltthreatenedtosuffocatetheintrepidfellow；
hecalledtohisfriendstodrawhimup，butcouldnotmakethemhear。Theystillloweredhim，deeperanddeeper。
Thenhejerkedhisthirdcordasvigorouslyashecould；
hisfriendsunderstood，anddraggedhimoutofthoseicyjawsofdeath。
Thentheyattachedabottletoacordandsentitdowntwohundredfeet，butitfoundnobottom。Itcameupcoveredwithcongelations——evidenceenoughthatevenifthepoorporterreachedthebottomwithunbrokenbones，aswiftdeathfromcoldwassure，anyway。
Aglacierisastupendous，ever-progressing，resistlessplow。
Itpushesaheadofitsmassesofboulderswhicharepackedtogether，andtheystretchacrossthegorge，rightinfrontofit，likealonggraveoralong，sharproof。Thisiscalledamoraine。Italsoshovesoutamorainealongeachsideofitscourse。
Imposingasthemodernglaciersare，theyarenotsohugeasweresomethatonceexisted。Forinstance，Mr。Whympersays:
"AtsomeveryremoteperiodtheValleyofAostawasoccupiedbyavastglacier，whichfloweddownitsentirelengthfromMontBlanctotheplainofPiedmont，remainedstationary，ornearlyso，atitsmouthformanycenturies，anddepositedthereenormousmassesofdebris。ThelengthofthisglacierexceededEIGHTYMILES，anditdrainedabasintwenty-fivetothirty-fivemilesacross，boundedbythehighestmountainsintheAlps。Thegreatpeaksroseseveralthousandfeetabovetheglaciers，andthen，asnow，shatteredbysunandfrost，poureddowntheirshowersofrocksandstones，inwitnessofwhichtherearetheimmensepilesofangularfragmentsthatconstitutethemorainesofIvrea。
"ThemorainesaroundIvreaareofextraordinarydimensions。
ThatwhichwasontheleftbankoftheglacierisaboutTHIRTEENMILESlong，andinsomeplacesrisestoaheightofTWOTHOUSANDONEHUNDREDANDTHIRTYFEET
abovethefloorofthevalley!Theterminalmorainesthosewhicharepushedinfrontoftheglaciers
coversomethingliketwentysquaremilesofcountry。
AtthemouthoftheValleyofAosta，thethicknessoftheglaciermusthavebeenatleastTWOTHOUSANDfeet，anditswidth，atthatpart，FIVEMILESANDAQUARTER。"
Itisnoteasytogetatacomprehensionofamassoficelikethat。Ifonecouldcleaveoffthebuttendofsuchaglacier——anoblongblocktwoorthreemileswidebyfiveandaquarterlongandtwothousandfeetthick——
hecouldcompletelyhidethecityofNewYorkunderit，andTrinitysteeplewouldonlystickupintoitrelativelyasfarasashingle-nailwouldstickupintothebottomofaSaratogatrunk。
"ThebouldersfromMontBlanc，upontheplainbelowIvrea，assureusthattheglacierwhichtransportedthemexistedforaprodigiouslengthoftime。Theirpresentdistancefromthecliffsfromwhichtheywerederivedisabout420，000feet，andifweassumethattheytraveledattherateof400feetperannum，theirjourneymusthaveoccupiedthemnolessthan1，055years!Inallprobabilitytheydidnottravelsofast。"
Glaciersaresometimeshurriedoutoftheircharacteristicsnail-pace。Amarvelousspectacleispresentedthen。
Mr。WhymperreferstoacasewhichoccurredinIcelandin1721:
"ItseemsthatintheneighborhoodofthemountainKotlugja，largebodiesofwaterformedunderneath，orwithintheglacierseitheronaccountoftheinteriorheatoftheearth，orfromothercauses，andatlengthacquiredirresistiblepower，toretheglaciersfromtheirmooringontheland，andsweptthemovereveryobstacleintothesea。
Prodigiousmassesoficewerethusborneforadistanceofabouttenmilesoverlandinthespaceofafewhours；
andtheirbulkwassoenormousthattheycoveredtheseaforsevenmilesfromtheshore，andremainedagroundinsixhundredfeetofwater!Thedenudationofthelandwasuponagrandscale。Allsuperficialaccumulationsweresweptaway，andthebedrockwasexposed。Itwasdescribed，ingraphiclanguage，howallirregularitiesanddepressionswereobliterated，andasmoothsurfaceofseveralmiles'
arealaidbare，andthatthisareahadtheappearanceofhavingbeenPLANEDBYAPLANE。"
TheaccounttranslatedfromtheIcelandicsaysthatthemountainlikeruinsofthismajesticglaciersocoveredtheseathatasfarastheeyecouldreachnoopenwaterwasdiscoverable，evenfromthehighestpeaks。Amonsterwallorbarrieroficewasbuiltacrossaconsiderablestretchofland，too，bythisstrangeirruption:
"OnecanformsomeideaofthealtitudeofthisbarrieroficewhenitismentionedthatfromHofdabrekkafarm，whichlieshighuponafjeld，onecouldnotseeHjorleifshofdiopposite，whichisafellsixhundredandfortyfeetinheight；butinordertodosohadtoclamberupamountainslopeeastofHofdabrekkatwelvehundredfeethigh。"
Thesethingswillhelpthereadertounderstandwhyitisthatamanwhokeepscompanywithglacierscomestofeeltolerablyinsignificantbyandby。TheAlpsandtheglacierstogetherareabletotakeeverybitofconceitoutofamanandreducehisself-importancetozeroifhewillonlyremainwithintheinfluenceoftheirsublimepresencelongenoughtogiveitafairandreasonablechancetodoitswork。
TheAlpineglaciersmove——thatisgranted，now，byeverybody。
Buttherewasatimewhenpeoplescoffedattheidea；
theysaidyoumightaswellexpectleaguesofsolidrocktocrawlalongthegroundasexpectleaguesoficetodoit。
Butproofafterproofasfurnished，andthefinallytheworldhadtobelieve。
Thewisemennotonlysaidtheglaciermoved，buttheytimeditsmovement。Theycipheredoutaglacier'sgait，andthensaidconfidentlythatitwouldtraveljustsofarinsomanyyears。Thereisrecordofastrikingandcuriousexampleoftheaccuracywhichmaybeattainedinthesereckonings。
In1820theascentofMontBlancwasattemptedbyaRussianandtwoEnglishmen，withsevenguides。Theyhadreachedaprodigiousaltitude，andwereapproachingthesummit，whenanavalanchesweptseveralofthepartydownasharpslopeoftwohundredfeetandhurledfiveofthemallguidesintooneofthecrevicesofaglacier。
Thelifeofoneofthefivewassavedbyalongbarometerwhichwasstrappedtohisback——itbridgedthecreviceandsuspendedhimuntilhelpcame。Thealpenstockorbatonofanothersaveditsownerinasimilarway。
Threemenwerelost——PierreBalmat，PierreCarrier，andAugusteTairraz。Theyhadbeenhurleddownintothefathomlessgreatdeepsofthecrevice。
Dr。Forbes，theEnglishgeologist，hadmadefrequentvisitstotheMontBlancregion，andhadgivenmuchattentiontothedisputedquestionofthemovementofglaciers。
Duringoneofthesevisitshecompletedhisestimatesoftherateofmovementoftheglacierwhichhadswallowedupthethreeguides，andutteredthepredictionthattheglacierwoulddeliverupitsdeadatthefootofthemountainthirty-fiveyearsfromthetimeoftheaccident，orpossiblyforty。
Adull，slowjourney——amovementimperceptibletoanyeye——
butitwasproceeding，nevertheless，andwithoutcessation。