Ireadseveralbooks，andherearesomeofthethingsIfoundout。One'sshoesmustbestrongandheavy，andhavepointedhobnailsinthem。Thealpenstockmustbeofthebestwood，forifitshouldbreak，lossoflifemightbetheresult。Oneshouldcarryanax，tocutstepsintheicewith，onthegreatheights。
Theremustbealadder，fortherearesteepbitsofrockwhichcanbesurmountedwiththisinstrument——orthisutensil——butcouldnotbesurmountedwithoutit；
suchanobstructionhascompelledthetouristtowastehourshuntinganotherroute，whenaladderwouldhavesavedhimalltrouble。Onemusthavefromonehundredandfiftytofivehundredfeetofstrongrope，tobeusedinloweringthepartydownsteepdeclivitieswhicharetoosteepandsmoothtobetraversedinanyotherway。
Onemusthaveasteelhook，onanotherrope——averyusefulthing；forwhenoneisascendingandcomestoalowbluffwhichisyettoohighfortheladder，heswingsthisropealoftlikealasso，thehookcatchesatthetopofthebluff，andthenthetouristclimbstherope，handoverhand——beingalwaysparticulartotryandforgetthatifthehookgiveswayhewillneverstopfallingtillhearrivesinsomepartofSwitzerlandwheretheyarenotexpectinghim。Anotherimportantthing——theremustbearopetotiethewholepartytogetherwith，sothatifonefallsfromamountainordownabottomlesschasminaglacier，theothersmaybracebackontheropeandsavehim。Onemusthaveasilkveil，toprotecthisfacefromsnow，sleet，hailandgale，andcoloredgogglestoprotecthiseyesfromthatdangerousenemy，snow-blindness。Finally，theremustbesomeporters，tocarryprovisions，wineandscientificinstruments，andalsoblanketbagsforthepartytosleepin。
IclosedmyreadingswithafearfuladventurewhichMr。WhymperoncehadontheMatterhornwhenhewasprowlingaroundalone，fivethousandfeetabovethetownofBreil。
Hewasedginghiswaygingerlyaroundthecornerofaprecipicewheretheupperedgeofasharpdeclivityofice-glazedsnowjoinedit。Thisdeclivitysweptdownacoupleofhundredfeet，intoagullywhichcurvedaroundandendedataprecipiceeighthundredfeethigh，overlookingaglacier。Hisfootslipped，andhefell。
Hesays:
"Myknapsackbroughtmyheaddownfirst，andIpitchedintosomerocksaboutadozenfeetbelow；theycaughtsomething，andtumbledmeofftheedge，headoverheels，intothegully；
thebatonwasdashedfrommyhands，andIwhirleddownwardinaseriesofbounds，eachlongerthanthelast；nowoverice，nowintorocks，strikingmyheadfourorfivetimes，eachtimewithincreasedforce。Thelastboundsentmespinningthroughtheairinaleapoffiftyorsixtyfeet，fromonesideofthegullytotheother，andIstrucktherocks，luckily，withthewholeofmyleftside。
Theycaughtmyclothesforamoment，andIfellbackontothesnowwithmotionarrested。Myheadfortunatelycametherightsideup，andafewfranticcatchesbroughtmetoahalt，intheneckofthegullyandonthevergeoftheprecipice。Baton，hat，andveilskimmedbyanddisappeared，andthecrashoftherocks——whichIhadstarted——astheyfellontotheglacier，toldhownarrowhadbeentheescapefromutterdestruction。Asitwas，Ifellnearlytwohundredfeetinsevenoreightbounds。
Tenfeetmorewouldhavetakenmeinonegiganticleapsofeighthundredfeetontotheglacierbelow。
"Thesituationwassufficientlyserious。Therockscouldnotbeletgoforamoment，andthebloodwasspurtingoutofmorethantwentycuts。Themostseriousoneswereinthehead，andIvainlytriedtoclosethemwithonehand，whileholdingonwiththeother。Itwasuseless；
thebloodgushedoutinblindingjetsateachpulsation。
Atlast，inamomentofinspiration，Ikickedoutabiglumpofsnowandstruckitasplasteronmyhead。
Theideawasahappyone，andtheflowofblooddiminished。
Then，scramblingup，Igot，notamomenttoosoon，toaplaceofsafety，andfaintedaway。Thesunwassettingwhenconsciousnessreturned，anditwaspitch-darkbeforetheGreatStaircasewasdescended；butbyacombinationofluckandcare，thewholefourthousandsevenhundredfeetofdescenttoBreilwasaccomplishedwithoutaslip，oroncemissingtheway。"
Hiswoundskepthimabedsomedays。Thenhegotupandclimbedthatmountainagain。ThatisthewaywithatrueAlp-climber；themorefunhehas，themorehewants。
CHAPTERXXXVII
[OurImposingColumnStartsUpward]
AfterIhadfinishedmyreadings，Iwasnolongermyself；
Iwastranced，uplifted，intoxicated，bythealmostincredibleperilsandadventuresIhadbeenfollowingmyauthorsthrough，andthetriumphsIhadbeensharingwiththem。Isatsilentsometime，thenturnedtoHarrisandsaid:
"Mymindismadeup。"
Somethinginmytonestruckhim:andwhenheglancedatmyeyeandreadwhatwaswrittenthere，hisfacepaledperceptibly。Hehesitatedamoment，thensaid:
"Speak。"
Ianswered，withperfectcalmness:
"IwillascendtheRiffelberg。"
IfIhadshotmypoorfriendhecouldnothavefallenfromhischairmoresuddenly。IfIhadbeenhisfatherhecouldnothavepleadedhardertogetmetogiveupmypurpose。
ButIturnedadeafeartoallhesaid。Whenheperceivedatlastthatnothingcouldaltermydetermination，heceasedtourge，andforawhilethedeepsilencewasbrokenonlybyhissobs。Isatinmarbleresolution，withmyeyesfixeduponvacancy，forinspiritIwasalreadywrestlingwiththeperilsofthemountains，andmyfriendsatgazingatmeinadoringadmirationthroughhistears。
Atlasthethrewhimselfuponmeinalovingembraceandexclaimedinbrokentones:
"YourHarriswillneverdesertyou。Wewilldietogether。"
Icheeredthenoblefellowwithpraises，andsoonhisfearswereforgottenandhewaseagerfortheadventure。
Hewantedtosummontheguidesatonceandleaveattwointhemorning，ashesupposedthecustomwas；
butIexplainedthatnobodywaslookingatthathour；
andthatthestartinthedarkwasnotusuallymadefromthevillagebutfromthefirstnight'sresting-placeonthemountainside。Isaidwewouldleavethevillageat3or4P。M。onthemorrow；meantimehecouldnotifytheguides，andalsoletthepublicknowoftheattemptwhichweproposedtomake。
Iwenttobed，butnottosleep。NomancansleepwhenheisabouttoundertakeoneoftheseAlpineexploits。
Itossedfeverishlyallnightlong，andwasgladenoughwhenIheardtheclockstrikehalfpastelevenandknewitwastimetogetupfordinner。Irose，jadedandrusty，andwenttothenoonmeal，whereIfoundmyselfthecenterofinterestandcuriosity；forthenewswasalreadyabroad。
Itisnoteasytoeatcalmlywhenyouarealion；butitisverypleasant，nevertheless。
Asusual，atZermatt，whenagreatascentisabouttobeundertaken，everybody，nativeandforeign，laidasidehisownprojectsandtookupagoodpositiontoobservethestart。Theexpeditionconsistedof198persons，includingthemules；or205，includingthecows。
Asfollows:
CHIEFSOFSERVICESUBORDINATES
Myself1VeterinarySurgeonMr。Harris1Butler17
Guides12Waiters4Surgeons1Footman1Geologist1
Barber1Botanist1HeadCook3Chaplains9Assistants15Barkeepers1ConfectioneryArtist1LatinistTRANSPORTATION，ETC。
27Porters3CoarseWashersandIroners44Mules1Fineditto44Muleteers7Cows2MilkersTotal，154men，51animals。GrandTotal，205。
RATIONS，ETC。APPARATUS
16CasesHams25SpringMattresses2BarrelsFlour2
Hairditto22BarrelsWhiskeyBeddingforsame1BarrelSugar2Mosquito-nets1KegLemons29Tents2，000CigarsScientificInstruments1BarrelPies97Ice-axes1TonofPemmican5CasesDynamite143PairCrutches7CansNitroglycerin2BarrelsArnica2240-footLadders1BaleofLint2MilesofRope27KegsParegoric154UmbrellasItwasfullfouro'clockintheafternoonbeforemycavalcadewasentirelyready。Atthathouritbegantomove。
Inpointofnumbersandspectaculareffect，itwasthemostimposingexpeditionthathadevermarchedfromZermatt。
Icommandedthechiefguidetoarrangethemenandanimalsinsinglefile，twelvefeetapart，andlashthemalltogetheronastrongrope。Heobjectedthatthefirsttwomileswasadeadlevel，withplentyofroom，andthattheropewasneverusedexceptinverydangerousplaces。
ButIwouldnotlistentothat。MyreadinghadtaughtmethatmanyseriousaccidentshadhappenedintheAlpssimplyfromnothavingthepeopletiedupsoonenough；
Iwasnotgoingtoaddonetothelist。Theguidethenobeyedmyorder。
Whentheprocessionstoodatease，ropedtogether，andreadytomove，Ineversawafinersight。Itwas3，122
feetlong——overhalfamile；everymanandmewasonfoot，andhadonhisgreenveilandhisbluegoggles，andhiswhiteragaroundhishat，andhiscoilofropeoveroneshoulderandundertheother，andhisice-axinhisbelt，andcarriedhisalpenstockinhislefthand，hisumbrellaclosedinhisright，andhiscrutchesslungathisback。
Theburdensofthepack-mulesandthehornsofthecowsweredeckedwiththeEdelweissandtheAlpinerose。
Iandmyagentweretheonlypersonsmounted。Wewereinthepostofdangerintheextremerear，andtiedsecurelytofiveguidesapiece。Ourarmor-bearerscarriedourice-axes，alpenstocks，andotherimplementsforus。
Weweremounteduponverysmalldonkeys，asameasureofsafety；intimeofperilwecouldstraightenourlegsandstandup，andletthedonkeywalkfromunder。
Still，Icannotrecommendthissortofanimal——atleastforexcursionsofmerepleasure——becausehisearsinterrupttheview。Iandmyagentpossessedtheregulationmountaineeringcostumes，butconcludedtoleavethembehind。
Outofrespectforthegreatnumbersoftouristsofbothsexeswhowouldbeassembledinfrontofthehotelstoseeuspass，andalsooutofrespectforthemanytouristswhomweexpectedtoencounteronourexpedition，wedecidedtomaketheascentineveningdress。
Wewateredthecaravanatthecoldstreamwhichrushesdownatroughneartheendofthevillage，andsoonafterwardleftthehauntsofcivilizationbehindus。
Abouthalfpastfiveo'clockwearrivedatabridgewhichspanstheVisp，andafterthrowingoveradetachmenttoseeifitwassafe，thecaravancrossedwithoutaccident。
Thewaynowled，byagentleascent，carpetedwithfreshgreengrass，tothechurchatWinkelmatten。
Withoutstoppingtoexaminethisedifice，IexecutedaflankmovementtotherightandcrossedthebridgeovertheFindelenbach，afterfirsttestingitsstrength。
HereIdeployedtotherightagain，andpresentlyenteredaninvitingstretchofmeadowlandwhichwasunoccupiedsavebyacoupleofdesertedhutstowardthefurthestextremity。
Thesemeadowsofferedanexcellentcamping-place。Wepitchedourtents，supped，establishedapropergrade，recordedtheeventsoftheday，andthenwenttobed。
Weroseattwointhemorninganddressedbycandle-light。Itwasadismalandchillybusiness。Afewstarswereshining，butthegeneralheavenswereovercast，andthegreatshaftoftheMatterhornwasdrapedinacablepallofclouds。
Thechiefguideadvisedadelay；hesaidhefeareditwasgoingtorain。Wewaiteduntilnineo'clock，andthengotawayintolerablyclearweather。
Ourcourseledupsometerrificsteeps，denselywoodedwithlarchesandcedars，andtraversedbypathswhichtherainshadgutteredandwhichwereobstructedbyloosestones。
Toaddtothedangerandinconvenience，wewereconstantlymeetingreturningtouristsonfootandhorseback，andasconstantlybeingcrowdedandbatteredbyascendingtouristswhowereinahurryandwantedtogetby。
Ourtroublesthickened。Aboutthemiddleoftheafternoontheseventeenguidescalledahaltandheldaconsultation。
Afterconsultinganhourtheysaidtheirfirstsuspicionremainedintact——thatistosay，theybelievedtheywerelost。IaskediftheydidnotKNOWit?No，theysaid，theyCOULDN'Tabsolutelyknowwhethertheywerelostornot，becausenoneofthemhadeverbeeninthatpartofthecountrybefore。Theyhadastronginstinctthattheywerelost，buttheyhadnoproofs——exceptthattheydidnotknowwheretheywere。Theyhadmetnotouristsforsometime，andtheyconsideredthatasuspicioussign。
Plainlywewereinanuglyfix。Theguideswerenaturallyunwillingtogoaloneandseekawayoutofthedifficulty；
soweallwenttogether。Forbettersecuritywemovedslowandcautiously，fortheforestwasverydense。
Wedidnotmoveupthemountain，butaroundit，hopingtostrikeacrosstheoldtrail。Towardnightfall，whenwewereabouttiredout，wecameupagainstarockasbigasacottage。Thisbarriertookalltheremainingspiritoutofthemen，andapanicoffearanddespairensued。
Theymoanedandwept，andsaidtheyshouldneverseetheirhomesandtheirdearonesagain。Thentheybegantoupbraidmeforbringingthemuponthisfatalexpedition。
Someevenmutteredthreatsagainstme。
Clearlyitwasnotimetoshowweakness。SoImadeaspeechinwhichIsaidthatotherAlp-climbershadbeeninasperilousapositionasthis，andyetbycourageandperseverancehadescaped。Ipromisedtostandbythem，Ipromisedtorescuethem。Iclosedbysayingwehadplentyofprovisionstomaintainusforquiteasiege——anddidtheysupposeZermattwouldallowhalfamileofmenandmulestomysteriouslydisappearduringanyconsiderabletime，rightabovetheirnoses，andmakenoinquiries?No，Zermattwouldsendoutsearching-expeditionsandweshouldbesaved。
Thisspeechhadagreateffect。Themenpitchedthetentswithsomelittleshowofcheerfulness，andweweresnuglyundercoverwhenthenightshutdown。InowreapedtherewardofmywisdominprovidingonearticlewhichisnotmentionedinanybookofAlpineadventurebutthis。
Irefertotheparegoric。Butforthatbeneficentdrug，wouldhavenotoneofthosemensleptamomentduringthatfearfulnight。Butforthatgentlepersuadertheymusthavetossed，unsoothed，thenightthrough；forthewhiskeywasforme。Yes，theywouldhaveriseninthemorningunfittedfortheirheavytask。Asitwas，everybodysleptbutmyagentandme——onlyweandthebarkeepers。
Iwouldnotpermitmyselftosleepatsuchatime。
Iconsideredmyselfresponsibleforallthoselives。
Imeanttobeonhandandready，incaseofavalanchesupthere，butIdidnotknowitthen。
Wewatchedtheweatherallthroughthatawfulnight，andkeptaneyeonthebarometer，tobepreparedfortheleastchange。Therewasnottheslightestchangerecordedbytheinstrument，duringthewholetime。
Wordscannotdescribethecomfortthatthatfriendly，hopeful，steadfastthingwastomeinthatseasonoftrouble。Itwasadefectivebarometer，andhadnohandbutthestationarybrasspointer，butIdidnotknowthatuntilafterward。IfIshouldbeinsuchasituationagain，Ishouldnotwishforanybarometerbutthatone。
Allhandsroseattwointhemorningandtookbreakfast，andassoonasitwaslightweropedourselvestogetherandwentatthatrock。Forsometimewetriedthehook-ropeandothermeansofscalingit，butwithoutsuccess——thatis，withoutperfectsuccess。Thehookcaughtonce，andHarrisstartedupithandoverhand，buttheholdbrokeandiftherehadnothappenedtobeachaplainsittingunderneathatthetime，Harriswouldcertainlyhavebeencrippled。
Asitwas，itwasthechaplain。Hetooktohiscrutches，andIorderedthehook-ropetobelaidaside。
Itwastoodangerousanimplementwheresomanypeoplearestandingaround。
Wewerepuzzledforawhile；thensomebodythoughtoftheladders。Oneofthesewasleanedagainsttherock，andthemenwentupittiedtogetherincouples。
Anotherladderwassentupforuseindescending。
Attheendofhalfanhoureverybodywasover，andthatrockwasconquered。Wegaveourfirstgrandshoutoftriumph。
Butthejoywasshort-lived，forsomebodyaskedhowweweregoingtogettheanimalsover。
Thiswasaseriousdifficulty；infact，itwasanimpossibility。
Thecourageofthemenbegantowaverimmediately；oncemorewewerethreatenedwithapanic。Butwhenthedangerwasmostimminent，weweresavedinamysteriousway。
Amulewhichhadattractedattentionfromthebeginningbyitsdispositiontoexperiment，triedtoeatafive-poundcanofnitroglycerin。Thishappenedrightalongsidetherock。Theexplosionthrewusalltotheground，andcovereduswithdirtanddebris；itfrightenedusextremely，too，forthecrashitmadewasdeafening，andtheviolenceoftheshockmadethegroundtremble。
However，weweregrateful，fortherockwasgone。
Itsplacewasoccupiedbyanewcellar，aboutthirtyfeetacross，byfifteenfeetdeep。TheexplosionwasheardasfarasZermatt；andanhourandahalfafterward，manycitizensofthattownwereknockeddownandquiteseriouslyinjuredbydescendingportionsofmulemeat，frozensolid。Thisshows，betterthananyestimateinfigures，howhightheexperimenterwent。
Wehadnothingtodo，now，butbridgethecellarandproceedonourway。Withacheerthemenwentattheirwork。
Iattendedtotheengineering，myself。Iappointedastrongdetailtocutdowntreeswithice-axesandtrimthemforpierstosupportthebridge。Thiswasaslowbusiness，forice-axesarenotgoodtocutwoodwith。Icausedmypierstobefirmlysetupinranksinthecellar，anduponthemIlaidsixofmyforty-footladders，sidebyside，andlaidsixmoreontopofthem。
UponthisbridgeIcausedabedofboughstobespread，andontopoftheboughsabedofearthsixinchesdeep。
Istretchedropesuponeithersidetoserveasrailings，andthenmybridgewascomplete。Atrainofelephantscouldhavecrosseditinsafetyandcomfort。Bynightfallthecaravanwasontheothersideandtheladdersweretakenup。
Nextmorningwewentoningoodspiritsforawhile，thoughourwaywasslowanddifficult，byreasonofthesteepandrockynatureofthegroundandthethicknessoftheforest；butatlastadulldespondencycreptintothemen'sfacesanditwasapparentthatnotonlythey，buteventheguides，werenowconvincedthatwewerelost。
Thefactthatwestillmetnotouristswasacircumstancethatwasbuttoosignificant。Anotherthingseemedtosuggestthatwewerenotonlylost，butverybadlylost；
fortheremustsurelybesearching-partiesontheroadbeforethistime，yetwehadseennosignofthem。
Demoralizationwasspreading；somethingmustbedone，anddonequickly，too。Fortunately，Iamnotunfertileinexpedients。Icontrivedonenowwhichcommendeditselftoall，foritpromisedwell。Itookthree-quartersofamileofropeandfastenedoneendofitaroundthewaistofaguide，andtoldhimtogofindtheroad，whilethecaravanwaited。Iinstructedhimtoguidehimselfbackbytherope，incaseoffailure；incaseofsuccess，hewastogivetheropeaseriesofviolentjerks，whereupontheExpeditionwouldgotohimatonce。
Hedeparted，andintwominuteshaddisappearedamongthetrees。Ipayedouttheropemyself，whileeverybodywatchedthecrawlingthingwitheagereyes。Theropecreptawayquiteslowly，attimes，atothertimeswithsomebriskness。Twiceorthriceweseemedtogetthesignal，andashoutwasjustreadytobreakfromthemen'slipswhentheyperceiveditwasafalsealarm。Butatlast，whenoverhalfamileofropehadsliddenaway，itstoppedglidingandstoodabsolutelystill——oneminute——twominutes——three——whileweheldourbreathandwatched。
Wastheguideresting?Washescanningthecountryfromsomehighpoint?Washeinquiringofachancemountaineer?
Stop，——hadhefaintedfromexcessoffatigueandanxiety?
Thisthoughtgaveusashock。IwasintheveryfirstactofdetailinganExpeditiontosuccorhim，whenthecordwasassailedwithaseriesofsuchfranticjerksthatI
couldhardlykeepholdofit。Thehuzzathatwentup，then，wasgoodtohear。"Saved!saved!"wasthewordthatrangout，alldownthelongrankofthecaravan。
Weroseupandstartedatonce。Wefoundtheroutetobegoodenoughforawhile，butitbegantogrowdifficult，byandby，andthisfeaturesteadilyincreased。Whenwejudgedwehadgonehalfamile，wemomentlyexpectedtoseetheguide；butno，hewasnotvisibleanywhere；
neitherwashewaiting，fortheropewasstillmoving，consequentlyhewasdoingthesame。Thisarguedthathehadnotfoundtheroad，yet，butwasmarchingtoitwithsomepeasant。Therewasnothingforustodobutplodalong——andthiswedid。Attheendofthreehourswewerestillplodding。Thiswasnotonlymysterious，butexasperating。Andveryfatiguing，too；forwehadtriedhard，alongatfirst，tocatchupwiththeguide，buthadonlyfaggedourselves，invain；foralthoughhewastravelingslowlyhewasyetabletogofasterthanthehamperedcaravanoversuchground。
Atthreeintheafternoonwewerenearlydeadwithexhaustion——andstilltheropewasslowlyglidingout。
Themurmursagainsttheguidehadbeengrowingsteadily，andatlasttheywerebecomeloudandsavage。
Amutinyensued。Themenrefusedtoproceed。Theydeclaredthatwehadbeentravelingoverandoverthesamegroundallday，inakindofcircle。Theydemandedthatourendoftheropebemadefasttoatree，soastohalttheguideuntilwecouldovertakehimandkillhim。
Thiswasnotanunreasonablerequirement，soIgavetheorder。
Assoonastheropewastied，theExpeditionmovedforwardwiththatalacritywhichthethirstforvengeanceusuallyinspires。Butafteratiresomemarchofalmosthalfamile，wecametoahillcoveredthickwithacrumblyrubbishofstones，andsosteepthatnomanofusallwasnowinaconditiontoclimbit。
Everyattemptfailed，andendedincripplingsomebody。
WithintwentyminutesIhadfivemenoncrutches。
Wheneveraclimbertriedtoassisthimselfbytherope，ityieldedandlethimtumblebackward。Thefrequencyofthisresultsuggestedanideatome。Iorderedthecaravanto'boutfaceandforminmarchingorder；
Ithenmadethetow-ropefasttotherearmule，andgavethecommand:
"Marktime——bytherightflank——forward——march!"
Theprocessionbegantomove，totheimpressivestrainsofabattle-chant，andIsaidtomyself，"Now，iftheropedon'tbreakIjudgeTHISwillfetchthatguideintothecamp。"
Iwatchedtheropeglidingdownthehill，andpresentlywhenIwasallfixedfortriumphIwasconfrontedbyabitterdisappointment；therewasnoguidetiedtotherope，itwasonlyaveryindignantoldblackram。
ThefuryofthebaffledExpeditionexceededallbounds。
Theyevenwantedtowreaktheirunreasoningvengeanceonthisinnocentdumbbrute。ButIstoodbetweenthemandtheirprey，menacedbyabristlingwallofice-axesandalpenstocks，andproclaimedthattherewasbutoneroadtothismurder，anditwasdirectlyovermycorpse。EvenasIspokeI
sawthatmydoomwassealed，exceptamiraclesupervenedtodivertthesemadmenfromtheirfellpurpose。Iseethesickeningwallofweaponsnow；IseethatadvancinghostasIsawitthen，Iseethehateinthosecrueleyes；
IrememberhowIdroopedmyheaduponmybreast，Ifeelagainthesuddenearthquakeshockinmyrear，administeredbytheveryramIwassacrificingmyselftosave；
IhearoncemorethetyphoonoflaughterthatburstfromtheassaultingcolumnasIcloveitfromvantorearlikeaSepoyshotfromaRodmangun。
Iwassaved。Yes，Iwassaved，andbythemercifulinstinctofingratitudewhichnaturehadplantedinthebreastofthattreacherousbeast。Thegracewhicheloquencehadfailedtoworkinthosemen'shearts，hadbeenwroughtbyalaugh。Theramwassetfreeandmylifewasspared。
Welivedtofindoutthatthatguidehaddesertedusassoonashehadplacedahalf-milebetweenhimselfandus。
Toavertsuspicion，hehadjudgeditbestthatthelineshouldcontinuetomove；sohecaughtthatram，andatthetimethathewassittingonitmakingtheropefasttoit，wewereimaginingthathewaslyinginaswoon，overcomebyfatigueanddistress。Whenheallowedtheramtogetupitfelltoplungingaround，tryingtoriditselfoftherope，andthiswasthesignalwhichwehadrisenupwithgladshoutstoobey。Wehadfollowedthisramroundandroundinacircleallday——athingwhichwasprovenbythediscoverythatwehadwateredtheExpeditionseventimesatoneandsamespringinsevenhours。
AsexpertawoodmanasIam，Ihadsomehowfailedtonoticethisuntilmyattentionwascalledtoitbyahog。
Thishogwasalwayswallowingthere，andashewastheonlyhogwesaw，hisfrequentrepetition，togetherwithhisunvaryingsimilaritytohimself，finallycausedmetoreflectthathemustbethesamehog，andthisledmetothedeductionthatthismustbethesamespring，also——whichindeeditwas。
Imadeanoteofthiscuriousthing，asshowinginastrikingmannertherelativedifferencebetweenglacialactionandtheactionofthehog。Itisnowawell-establishedfactthatglaciersmove；Iconsiderthatmyobservationsgotoshow，withequalconclusiveness，thatahoginaspringdoesnotmove。Ishallbegladtoreceivetheopinionsofotherobserversuponthispoint。
Toreturn，foranexplanatorymoment，tothatguide，andthenIshallbedonewithhim。Afterleavingtheramtiedtotherope，hehadwanderedatlargeawhile，andthenhappenedtorunacrossacow。Judgingthatacowwouldnaturallyknowmorethanaguide，hetookherbythetail，andtheresultjustifiedhisjudgment。
Shenibbledherleisurelywaydownhilltillitwasnearmilking-time，thenshestruckforhomeandtowedhimintoZermatt。
CHAPTERXXXVIII
[IConquertheGornerGrat]
Wewentintocamponthatwildspottowhichthatramhadbroughtus。Themenweregreatlyfatigued。
Theirconvictionthatwewerelostwasforgotteninthecheerofagoodsupper，andbeforethereactionhadachancetosetin，Iloadedthemupwithparegoricandputthemtobed。
NextmorningIwasconsideringinmymindourdesperatesituationandtryingtothinkofaremedy，whenHarriscametomewithaBaedekermapwhichshowedconclusivelythatthemountainwewereonwasstillinSwitzerland——yes，everypartofitwasinSwitzerland。Sowewerenotlost，afterall。Thiswasanimmenserelief；itliftedtheweightoftwosuchmountainsfrommybreast。Iimmediatelyhadthenewsdisseminatedandthemapwasexhibited。
Theeffectwaswonderful。Assoonasthemensawwiththeirowneyesthattheyknewwheretheywere，andthatitwasonlythesummitthatwaslostandnotthemselves，theycheeredupinstantlyandsaidwithoneaccord，letthesummittakecareofitself。
Ourdistressesbeingatanend，InowdeterminedtorestthemenincampandgivethescientificdepartmentoftheExpeditionachance。First，Imadeabarometricobservation，togetouraltitude，butIcouldnotperceivethattherewasanyresult。Iknew，bymyscientificreading，thateitherthermometersorbarometersoughttobeboiled，tomakethemaccurate；Ididnotknowwhichitwas，soIboiledthemboth。Therewasstillnoresult；
soIexaminedtheseinstrumentsanddiscoveredthattheypossessedradicalblemishes:thebarometerhadnohandbutthebrasspointerandtheballofthethermometerwasstuffedwithtin-foil。Imighthaveboiledthosethingstorags，andneverfoundoutanything。
Ihuntedupanotherbarometer；itwasnewandperfect。
Iboiledithalfanhourinapotofbeansoupwhichthecooksweremaking。Theresultwasunexpected:theinstrumentwasnotaffectingatall，buttherewassuchastrongbarometertastetothesoupthattheheadcook，whowasamostconscientiousperson，changeditsnameinthebilloffare。Thedishwassogreatlylikedbyall，thatIorderedthecooktohavebarometersoupeveryday。
Itwasbelievedthatthebarometermighteventuallybeinjured，butIdidnotcareforthat。Ihaddemonstratedtomysatisfactionthatitcouldnottellhowhighamountainwas，thereforeIhadnorealuseforit。
ChangesintheweatherIcouldtakecareofwithoutit；
Ididnotwishtoknowwhentheweatherwasgoingtobegood，whatIwantedtoknowwaswhenitwasgoingtobebad，andthisIcouldfindoutfromHarris'scorns。HarrishadhadhiscornstestedandregulatedatthegovernmentobservatoryinHeidelberg，andonecoulddependuponthemwithconfidence。SoItransferredthenewbarometertothecookingdepartment，tobeusedfortheofficialmess。
Itwasfoundthatevenaprettyfairarticleofsoupcouldbemadefromthedefectivebarometer；soIallowedthatonetobetransferredtothesubordinatemess。
Inextboiledthethermometer，andgotamostexcellentresult；
themercurywentuptoabout200degreesFahrenheit。
IntheopinionoftheotherscientistsoftheExpedition，thisseemedtoindicatethatwehadattainedtheextraordinaryaltitudeoftwohundredthousandfeetabovesea-level。
Scienceplacesthelineofeternalsnowatabouttenthousandfeetabovesea-level。Therewasnosnowwherewewere，consequentlyitwasproventhattheeternalsnow-lineceasessomewhereabovetheten-thousand-footlevelanddoesnotbeginanymore。Thiswasaninterestingfact，andonewhichhadnotbeenobservedbyanyobserverbefore。
Itwasasvaluableasinteresting，too，sinceitwouldopenupthedesertedsummitsofthehighestAlpstopopulationandagriculture。Itwasaproudthingtobewherewewere，yetitcausedusapangtoreflectthatbutforthatramwemightjustaswellbeentwohundredthousandfeethigher。
Thesuccessofmylastexperimentinducedmetotryanexperimentwithmyphotographicapparatus。Igotitout，andboiledoneofmycameras，butthethingwasafailure；
itmadethewoodswellupandburst，andIcouldnotseethatthelenseswereanybetterthantheywerebefore。
Inowconcludedtoboilaguide。Itmightimprovehim，itcouldnotimpairhisusefulness。ButIwasnotallowedtoproceed。Guideshavenofeelingforscience，andthisonewouldnotconsenttobemadeuncomfortableinitsinterest。
Inthemidstofmyscientificwork，oneofthoseneedlessaccidentshappenedwhicharealwaysoccurringamongtheignorantandthoughtless。AportershotatachamoisandmisseditandcrippledtheLatinist。
Thiswasnotaseriousmattertome，foraLatinist'sdutiesareaswellperformedoncrutchesasotherwise——
butthefactremainedthatiftheLatinisthadnothappenedtobeinthewayamulewouldhavegotthatload。Thatwouldhavebeenquiteanothermatter，forwhenitcomesdowntoaquestionofvaluethereisapalpabledifferencebetweenaLatinistandamule。
IcouldnotdependonhavingaLatinistintherightplaceeverytime；so，tomakethingssafe，Iorderedthatinthefuturethechamoismustnotbehuntedwithinlimitsofthecampwithanyotherweaponthantheforefinger。
Mynerveshadhardlygrownquietafterthisaffairwhentheygotanothershake-up——onewhichutterlyunmannedmeforamoment:arumorsweptsuddenlythroughthecampthatoneofthebarkeepershadfallenoveraprecipice!
However，itturnedoutthatitwasonlyachaplain。
Ihadlaidinanextraforceofchaplains，purposelytobepreparedforemergencieslikethis，butbysomeunaccountableoversighthadcomeawayrathershort-handedinthematterofbarkeepers。
Onthefollowingmorningwemovedon，wellrefreshedandingoodspirits。Irememberthisdaywithpeculiarpleasure，becauseitsawourroadrestoredtous。Yes，wefoundourroadagain，andinquiteanextraordinaryway。
Wehadploddedalongsometwohoursandahalf，whenwecameupagainstasolidmassofrockabouttwentyfeethigh。
Ididnotneedtobeinstructedbyamulethistime。
IwasalreadybeginningtoknowmorethananymuleintheExpedition。Iatonceputinablastofdynamite，andliftedthatrockoutoftheway。Buttomysurpriseandmortification，Ifoundthattherehadbeenachaletontopofit。
Ipickedupsuchmembersofthefamilyasfellinmyvicinity，andsubordinatesofmycorpscollectedtherest。
Noneofthesepoorpeoplewereinjured，happily，buttheyweremuchannoyed。Iexplainedtotheheadchaleteerjusthowthethinghappened，andthatIwasonlysearchingfortheroad，andwouldcertainlyhavegivenhimtimelynoticeifIhadknownhewasupthere。IsaidIhadmeantnoharm，andhopedIhadnotloweredmyselfinhisestimationbyraisinghimafewrodsintheair。
Isaidmanyotherjudiciousthings，andfinallywhenI
offeredtorebuildhischalet，andpayforthebreakages，andthrowinthecellar，hewasmollifiedandsatisfied。
Hehadn'tanycellaratall，before；hewouldnothaveasgoodaview，now，asformerly，butwhathehadlostinviewhehadgainedincellar，byexactmeasurement。
Hesaidtherewasn'tanotherholelikethatinthemountains——
andhewouldhavebeenrightifthelatemulehadnottriedtoeatupthenitroglycerin。
Iputahundredandsixteenmenatwork，andtheyrebuiltthechaletfromitsowndebrisinfifteenminutes。
Itwasagooddealmorepicturesquethanitwasbefore，too。ThemansaidwewerenowontheFeil-Stutz，abovetheSchwegmatt——informationwhichIwasgladtoget，sinceitgaveusourpositiontoadegreeofparticularitywhichwehadnotbeenaccustomedtoforadayorso。
WealsolearnedthatwewerestandingatthefootoftheRiffelbergproper，andthattheinitialchapterofourworkwascompleted。
Wehadafineview，fromhere，oftheenergeticVisp，asitmakesitsfirstplungeintotheworldfromunderahugearchofsolidice，wornthroughthefoot-wallofthegreatGornerGlacier；andwecouldalsoseetheFurggenbach，whichistheoutletoftheFurggenGlacier。
Themule-roadtothesummitoftheRiffelbergpassedrightinfrontofthechalet，acircumstancewhichwealmostimmediatelynoticed，becauseaprocessionoftouristswasfilingalongitprettymuchallthetime。[1]Thechaleteer'sbusinessconsistedinfurnishingrefreshmentstotourists。
Myblasthadinterruptedthistradeforafewminutes，bybreakingallthebottlesontheplace；butIgavethemanalotofwhiskeytosellforAlpinechampagne，andalotofvinegarwhichwouldanswerforRhinewine，consequentlytradewassoonasbriskasever。
1。"Prettymuch"maynotbeelegantEnglish，butitishightimeitwas。Thereisnoelegantwordorphrasewhichmeansjustwhatitmeans——M。T。
LeavingtheExpeditionoutsidetorest，Iquarteredmyselfinthechalet，withHarris，proposingtocorrectmyjournalsandscientificobservationsbeforecontinuingtheascent。
Ihadhardlybegunmyworkwhenatall，slender，vigorousAmericanyouthofabouttwenty-three，whowasonhiswaydownthemountain，enteredandcametowardmewiththatbreezeself-complacencywhichistheadolescent'sideaofthewell-bredeaseofthemanoftheworld。
Hishairwasshortandpartedaccuratelyinthemiddle，andhehadallthelookofanAmericanpersonwhowouldbelikelytobeginhissignaturewithaninitial，andspellhismiddlenameout。Heintroducedhimself，smilingasmirkysmileborrowedfromthecourtiersofthestage，extendedafair-skinnedtalon，andwhilehegrippedmyhandinithebenthisbodyforwardthreetimesatthehips，asthestagecourtierdoes，andsaidintheairiestandmostcondescendingandpatronizingway——Iquiterememberhisexactlanguage:
"Verygladtomakeyouracquaintance，'msure；verygladindeed，assureyou。I'vereadallyourlittleeffortsandgreatlyadmiredthem，andwhenIheardyouwerehere，I……"
Iindicatedachair，andhesatdown。ThisgrandeewasthegrandsonofanAmericanofconsiderablenoteinhisday，andnotwhollyforgottenyet——amanwhocamesonearbeingagreatmanthathewasquitegenerallyaccountedonewhilehelived。
Islowlypacedthefloor，ponderingscientificproblems，andheardthisconversation:
GRANDSON。FirstvisittoEurope?
HARRIS。Mine?Yes。
G。S。Withasoftreminiscentsighsuggestiveofbygonejoysthatmaybetastedintheirfreshnessbutonce。
Ah，Iknowwhatitistoyou。Afirstvisit!——ah，theromanceofit!IwishIcouldfeelitagain。
H。Yes，Ifinditexceedsallmydreams。Itisenchantment。
Igo……
G。S。Withadaintygestureofthehandsignifying"Sparemeyourcallowenthusiasms，goodfriend。"Yes，_I_know，Iknow；yougotocathedrals，andexclaim；andyoudragthroughleague-longpicture-galleriesandexclaim；andyoustandhere，andthere，andyonder，uponhistoricground，andcontinuetoexclaim；andyouarepermeatedwithyourfirstcrudeconceptionsofArt，andareproudandhappy。Ah，yes，proudandhappy——thatexpressesit。
Yes-yes，enjoyit——itisright——itisaninnocentrevel。
H。Andyou?Don'tyoudothesethingsnow?
G。S。I!Oh，thatisVERYgood!Mydearsir，whenyouareasoldatravelerasIam，youwillnotasksuchaquestionasthat。_I_visittheregulationgallery，moonaroundtheregulationcathedral，dothewornroundoftheregulationsights，YET?——Excuseme!
H。Well，whatDOyoudo，then?
G。S。Do?Iflit——andflit——forIameveronthewing——butI
avoidtheherd。TodayIaminParis，tomorrowinBerlin，anoninRome；butyouwouldlookformeinvaininthegalleriesoftheLouvreorthecommonresortsofthegazersinthoseothercapitals。Ifyouwouldfindme，youmustlookintheunvisitednooksandcornerswhereothersneverthinkofgoing。Onedayyouwillfindmemakingmyselfathomeinsomeobscurepeasant'scabin，anotherdayyouwillfindmeinsomeforgottencastleworshipingsomelittlegemorartwhichthecarelesseyehasoverlookedandwhichtheunexperiencedwoulddespise；
againyouwillfindmeasguestintheinnersanctuariesofpalaceswhiletheherdiscontenttogetahurriedglimpseoftheunusedchambersbyfeeingaservant。