Hereweareatlast，thetripfromSantaBarbarawhereI
lastwroteyouwasmadeinsixdays。ItwasnotsointerestingasthefirstpartbecauseitwasveryhighupandthetropicalscenerygavewaytoimmenselytallpinesandothertreesthatmighthavebeeninCalifornia，ortheRockies。TheCorderillaswhichisthenameofthemountainswecrossedareacontinuation，bytheway，oftheRockies，andtheAndesbutarenotmorethan4，000feethigh。
WehadtwoveryhotdaysofitintheplainsofComgaquawheretherewasonceacityof60，000foundedbyCortezbutwheretherearenotnowmorethan6，000。Theheatwasawful。Wepeeledalloverourfacesandhandsanddodgedandduckedourheadsasthoughsomeonewerebitingatus。MysaddleandclothesweresohotthatIcouldnotplacemyhandonthem。
Atonevillageweheardthatabullfightwastobegivenatthenextfifteenmilesaway，sowerodeonthereandarrivedintimetotakepart。Theyhadenclosedtheplazawithabarricadeoflogssevenfeethigh，boundtogetherwithvines。
Theyropedabigbullandlassoedhimalloverandthenamangotonhisbackwithspursonhisbarefeetandheldonbytheropesaroundthebull'sbodyandbyhistoesandthrewacloakoverthebull'seyeswheneveritgottoonearanyone——Theystuckitwithspearsuntilitwasmadandthenletthelassoesslipandthebullstartedofftotearoutthetorreadors。I
thoughtitwouldbeagreatsportingacttokodakabullwhileitwaschargingyouandsoweallvolunteeredtoactastorreadorsanditwasmostexcitingandfunny。ItwasratherlatetogetgoodresultsbutIgotsomeprettygoodpicturesofthebullcomingatmewithhisheaddownandthenI'dskipintoaholeinthewall。ThebestpicturesIgotwereofSomersandGriscomscramblingoverthesevenfootbarrierswiththebullinhotchase。Wealllookedsofunnyinourhighbootsandhelmetsandsomuchalikethatthesavagesyelledwithdelightandthoughtwehadbeenengagedespeciallyfortheirpleasure。Our"mosers，"ormuledriverstreatedusmostinsolentlybutwecouldnotdoanythingbecauseJeffs。hadengagedthemandwedidnotwanttointerferewithhisauthoritybutataplacethelastdayoutoneofthemtoldJeffs。heliedandthatwealllied。HehadlostorstolenacanteenofGriscom'sandtheyhadsaidwehadnotgivenittohim。Jeffs。wentathimrightandleftandknockedhimallovertheshop。Therewerehalfadozendrunkenmuledriversattheplaceandwethoughttheywouldtakeahandbuttheydidnot。ThatnightJeffs。thoughttotryustoseewhatwewouldhavedoneandleftusbathinginamountainstreamandrodeonaheadandhidhimselfbehindarockinacanonandlayinambushforus。WewerejoggingalonginthemoonlightandSomersetwasrecitingthe"WalrusandtheCarpenter，"whensuddenlyJeffs。letoutaseriesofyellsinSpanishandopenedfireonusoverourheads。SomersetwasridingmymuleandIhadnoweapons，soIyelledathimtoshootandhefelloffhismuleandrantomineandletgoattherockbehindwhichJeffs。waswiththecarbines。SothatinaboutfivesecondsJeffs。'curiositywasperfectlysatisfiedastowhatwewoulddo，andheshoutedformercy。WethoughtitwasasentryorbrigandsandweregreatlydisappointedwhenitturnedouttobeJeffs。Wegotherelastnightandadirtierormoredismalplaceyouneversaw。Wehadtelegraphedaheadforroomsbutnothingwasinorderandwewerelodgedmuchworsethanwehadbeenseveraltimesintheinteriorwheretherewasoccasionallyacleanfloor。ThismorningwewrotedirecttothePresident，askingforanintervieworaudienceanddidnotaskourConsultohelpusbecauseJeffs。hadaskedhiminourpresencetocomemeetusandhesaidhewouldafterhehaddonetalkingtosomeothermen，buthenevercame。BeforeweheardfromBonillahowever，welearnedthattheVice-presidentwhohasthesamenamewastobesworninsowewenttothepalacealongwiththepopulaceintheirbarefeet。WesatoutofsightbuttheEnglishConsulwhowasthefinestlookingpersoninthechamber——allovergoldlace——sawusandaskedthatwebegivenplacesinfront，whichtheministerofsomethingaskedustotakebutweobjectedonaccountofourclothes。Somershadonaflannelsuitthatlookedexactlylikepajamasandlawntennisshoes。
ButassoonastheceremonywasovertheyinsistedonourgoingintothebanquethallandinspiteofourobjectionswewerethereconveyedandpresentedtoBonillawhobehavedverywellandaftersayinghehadreceivedourlettersbuthadnothadtimetoreadthemleftusandavoidedus，whichwaswhatwewantedforwelookedlikethedevil。WemeteverybodyelsethoughandtooktheEnglishandGuatemalianConsulsbacktoourroomsandgavethemdrinksandthenwewenttotheirrooms，sothedaywentverypleasantly。ThePresidentsentusafunnyprintedcardappointinganaudienceatelevento-morrow。Itisexactlywhatyouwouldimagineitwouldbe，thesoldiersarebarefootedexceptaboutfiftyandthePresidentleanedoutofthewindowinhisshirtsleevesafterthereviewandtheyhavenotplastereduptheholesinhispalacethathiscannonmadeinitjustayearagoto-day，whenhewasfightingVasquez，andVasquezwasthenontheinsideandBonillaonthehills。Iforgottotellyouthatthismorningaboyaboutsixteenyearsold，withapoliceman'sbadgeandclubcametoourwindowandtalkedpleasantlywithusoratusrather，whileweshavedandguyedhiminEnglish。FinallywefoundthathehadcometoarrestJeffs。sowetoldhimwhereJeffs。wasbuthepreferredtowatchusshaveandwefinisheditunderhiscustody。ThenwewenttotheCommandanteandfoundthatthemosershadhadJeffs。arrestedfornotpayingthemontheirarrivalatTegucigalpa，aswehaddistinctlytoldthemwewouldnotdobutatSanPedrofromwherewetookthem，ontheirreturn。ItwasonlyaspitecasesuggestedbyJeffs。thrashingtheirleader。TheCommandantegavethemascoldingandwewentoutintriumph。
February4th——
Yourcablereceivedallright。Wewereverygladtohear。WehavedecidedtogoonbymulestoManaqua，theCapitalofNicaragua，andfromthereeithertoCorintoortoLemonontheAtlanticside。WehadtodothisorwaitheretendaysfortheboatgoingsouthatAmapala。Itismoonlightnowsothatwecanavoidtheheatoftheday。YesterdaywewentoutridingwiththePresident，whoputagoldrevolverinhishippocketbeforehestartedandmadeusfeelthatuneasyliestheheadthatrulesinthiscountry。Hehadtwohorsesthathadneverbeenriddenbefore，asacomplimenttoourpowers，theresultwasthattheVice-president'shorsealmostkilledhim，whichIguessthePresidentintendeditshouldandthehorseGriscomrodebackedalloverthetown。Hewasastallionandhadneverbeenriddenbeforethatday。Minewasagentleoldgee-geeandyetIfeltgoodwhenwewereallonthegroundagain。
TheBritishconsulgaveSomersafinereceptionandraisedtheflagforhimandhadthebandtheretoplay"GodSavetheQueen，"
whichhehadspentthewholemorninginteachingthem。GriscomandIcalledonourConsulandplayedhisguitar。Weboughtoneforourselvesfortherestofthetrip。
Iwantyoutodosomethingforme:keepalltheunfavorablenoticesyouget。IknowMotherwon'tdoit，soIshallexpectNoratomakeapointofsavingthemfromthewaste-paperbasket。IfthereisnotalotofthemwhenIgetback，Iwillraisearow。
DICK。
MANAQUA-NICARAGUA-February13，1895。
DEARFAM:
Ihadagreatdealtotellyou，butwehavejustreceivedcopiesofthePanamaStarandhavereadofthetrolleyriotsinBrooklyn，acrisisinFrance，WarintheBalkans，arevolutioninHonoluluandanotherinColombia。Theresultisthatwefeelwearenotinitandweareallkickingandgrowlingandabusingourluck。HowClaiborneandRussellwilldelightoverusandintellinghowthemilitiafiredonthestrikersandhowTroopAfoughtnobly。Nevermindourturnwillcomesomedayandwemayseesomethingyet。WehavehadthedeuceofatimesinceweleftTegucigalpa。Nowweareinalandwheretherearebullhidebedsandcanvascotsinsteadofhammocksandiceandrailroadsanddirectcommunicationwithsteamshiplines。Hereafterallwillbemerelyamatterofwaitinguntiltheboatsailsorthetrainstartsandtheuncertaintiesofmulesandcatboatsareatanend。ItishardtoexplainaboutourdifficultiesafterweleftTegucigalpabuttheyweremany。WegaveupourideaofridingheredirectbecausetheyassureduswecouldgetasteamlaunchfromAmapalatoCorintosowerodethreedaystoSanLorenzoonthePacificsideandtookanopenboatfromtheretoAmapala。Itwasrowedbyfourmenwhowalkedupanotchedlogandthenfellbackdraggingthesweepsback，withtheweightoftheirbodies。
Itwasamoonlightnightandtheylookedverypicturesquerisingandsinkingbackandoutlinedagainstthesky。TheywerenakedtothewaistandrowedallnightandIhadagoodchancetoseethemasIhadtolieonthebottomoftheboatonthreemahoganylogs。Bytenthenextdayweweretoocrampedtostandit，soweputashoreonadesertedislandandplayedRobinsonCrusoe。Wehadtwobiscuitsandaboxofsardinesamongfiveofusbutwefoundoystersontherocksandknockedalotoffwithclubsandstonesandthebuttsofourguns。Theywereverygood。Wealsohadabathuntilafishranintomeaboutthreefeetlongandcuttwogashesinmyleg。WereachedAmapalaaboutfourintheafternoon。Itwasanawfulplace；dirtandfilthandnoroomtomoveabout，sowecharteredanopenboattosailorrowtoCorintosixtymilesdistant。
Yousee，wecouldnotgobacktoTegucigalpauntilthesteamerarrivedwhichistotakeusSouthofPanamaandwecouldnotgotoManaquaeitherandforthesamereasonthatwehadsentbackourmuletrainandwewouldnotwaitinAmapalapartlybecauseoffeverwhichhadbeenthereandpartlybecausewewantedtogettoCorintowheretheyhaveiceandtoseeManaqua。TheboatwasaboutaslongastheVagabondandtwiceasdeepandafootortwomoreacrossherbeam。Therewerefourofus，fiveofthecrewandtwonativeswhowantedtomakethetripandwhowetookwithus。Itwasprettyawful。TheoldtubrockedlikeamilkshakeandIwasneversoillinmylife，wealllaypackedtogetherontheribsoftheboatandcouldnotmoveandthewavessplashedoverusbutweweretooilltocare。Thenextdaythesunbeatinonusandroasteduslikeanopenfurnace。TheboatwasapitofheatandoutsidetheswellofthePacificroseandfellandreflectedthesunlikecopper。WereachedCorintoinabouttwentyfourhoursandIwasneversogladtogetanyplacebefore。ThetownturnedouttogreetusandsomeEnglishmenrantoaskfromwhatboatwehadbeenshipwrecked。Theywouldnotbelievewehadtakenthetripforanyotherreason。
Theyhelpedusverykindlyandwouldnotletusdrinkalltheicedwaterwewantedandsentusintobatheinaplacesurroundedbypilestokeepoutthesharksandbyarooftoshelteronefromthesun。CorintoprovedtobeallthatAmapalawasnot；clean，coolwithveryexcellentfoodandbroadbedsofmatting。Ilikeditbetterthananyplaceatwhichwehavebeen，wecameonherethenextdaytoseethePresidentandfoundthecityhot，dustyandofnointerest。
ThereisanexcellenthotelhoweverandwehadatalkwiththePresidentwhowasamuchbetterchapthanBonillabeingolderandmorecivilized。Ofcoursethereisabsolutelynoreasonorexcuseforusifwedonotgetcontrolofthiscanal。IfonlythatitwouldallowourshipsofwartopassfromOceantoOceaninsteadofgoingaroundthehorn。Thewomenarereallybeautifulbutthathasnothingtodowiththecanal。
TomorrowmorningwereturntoCorintoasSomersandIlikeitbest。GriscomwouldliketogoonacrossbytherouteofthecanalwhichwouldbeagoodthingwerewecertainofmeetingasteameratSimonorGreytown，buttheMinisterwhowentlastmonththatwayhadtowaittheresixteendays。
So，wewillprobablyleaveCorintoonthe17thor20th，therearetwosteamers，onethatstopsatportsandonethatdoesnot。Theybotharrivetogether。Idonotknowwhichwewilltakebut——thisletterwillgowithme。UptodateIthinkthetripwillmakeagoodstorybutitwillhavetobeapersonaloneaboutthethreeofusforthecountryasitstandsisuninterestingtothegeneralreaderforthereasonthatitDUPLICATESitselfineverything。Butwithourphotographsandahumorousstory，itoughttobeworthreadingandIhavepickedenoughcuriousthingstomakeitofsomevalue。
February15，——Corinto。
Wearebackherenowandridofthatdusty，dirtycity。Youwouldbeamusedifyousawthisplaceandtriedtounderstandwhywepreferittoanyplacewehaveseen。ThereissurfbathingatahalfmiledistantandagoodhotelwithagreatbarwhereaFrenchmangivesusiceandtheseacaptainsandagentsforminesandplantationsintheinteriorgathertoplaybilliards。OutsidetherearerowsofhandsomewomenwithdecolletegownsandshiningblackhairandcoloredsilkscarfssellingfruitanddowntheonestreetwhichfacesthebayareadoublerowofpalmsandthestorewheretwoAmericanboyshaveaphonograph。TheyaretheonlyAmericansIhavemetwhohaveoraretakingadollaroutofthiscountry。Theyplaytheguitarandbanjoverywell。OneofthemwasonthePrincetongleeclubandtheirstoriesofhowtheyhavetouredCentralAmericaareveryamusing。LotsofLove。
DICK。
S。S。Barracouta——OffSanJuanFebruary21，1895。
DEARMOTHER:
TodayIbelieveisthe21st。WeareouttwodaysfromCorintooffSanJuanontheboundaryofCostaRicaandlieheresomehours。ThenwegoonwithoutstoppingtoPanamaarrivingthereaboutthe25th。Onthe28thwetakethesteamertoCaracas。WewillbeatCaracasaweekandthengostraighthome。ButinthemeanwhilewewillhavegotonemailatColonwhenwegotheretotaketheboatforCaracasandgladIwillbetogetit。WehavehadasummaryofthenewsinthePanamaStarandabundleofWorldstellingallaboutthetrolleystrikeandthatisallexceptDad'scableatTegucigalpathatwehaveheardinnearlytwomonths。Iamverysorrythatthedistanceshaveturnedoutsomuchlongerthanweexpectedandthatwehadthatunfortunatetendayswaitforthesteamer。I
knowyouwantmehomeandIwouldliketobetherebutIdonotthinkIoughttogowithoutseeingCaracas。IthelpsthebooksomuchtooifonerunsitintoSouthAmericafornooneintheStatesthinksmuchofCentralanddoesnotwanttoreadaboutit。AtleastIknowIneverdid。Wehavehadamostamusingtimewiththetwophonographchaps。Oneofthemhasbeenanadvertisingagentandadeputysheriffandchasedstagecoachrobbersandkeptahard-warestoreandisonlytwenty-fiveandtheotherhasnothadquiteasmuchexperiencebuthasbeentoPrinceton，heis23。Themixtureofnarrativeswhichchangefromtricksofthehard-waretradetodancesatBuckinghamPalaceandanecdotesofCliffHousesupperpartiesatSanFranciscoareveryinteresting。Iamgoingtowriteabookforthemandcallit"ThroughCentralAmericawithaPhonograph"
or"WhoWeDid，andHowWeDoneThem。"Wesingthemostbeautifulmedleysandcontributetothephonograph。
Ihadtoprotestagainstthemannouncing"HerGoldenHairwasHangingDownherBack"byRichardHardingDavisandSomersetkickedattheirintroducing"GodSavetheQueen"assungby"HisGracetheDukeofBedford"whichtheyinsistinthinkinghisrealtitleandhisname；ifhewouldonlyconfessthetruth。YoucannothaveanyideaofhowgladIamthatItookthistrip，justthisparticulartrip，notforanyinterestitwillbetothegentlereaderbutforthebenefitithasbeentome。AllthethingsIwasnervousabouthavebeendoneandshouldIgetnervesagainasIsupposeIalwayswillinoneformoranotherIcangetridofthembyrememberinghowIgotridofthembeforeduringthismostpeculiarexcursion。ForthoughIandwealltoldthetruthaboutbeingwell，wewereinamosttryingplaceattimesandtheridewetookandthesailtogetawayfrompossiblefeverwasverymuchofastrain。IdonotseehowGriscomkeptupashedidforhewasaninvalidandverynervouswhenhestarted。Butheshowedgreatsportingblood。
Itwasmuchbetterhavingthreethantwoandhefurnisheduswithmuchamusementatwhichhenevercomplains。Hisartlessnessandhisbadbreakswhichkeepusfilledwithterrormakethemostentertainingnarrativesandhetellsthemonhimselfandthenkeepsonmakingnewones。OnenightJeffscamedownwithfeverthroughbathinginthemountainstreams，apracticewhichdidnothurtusbutwhichnativesofthecountrycannotdoinsafety，andIconfessIwasscared。Jeffspulledthroughinafewdays。Itwasoddthatthemanwhohadlivedhereelevenyearsshouldhavebeentheonlyonetogiveupthroughoutthewholetripandhewasagoodsport，too。
IwillhavetheCentralAmericanstoriesalldoneornearlysobythetimewereachNewYorkwhichisoneofthecomfortsofthisoverabundanceofseavoyages。IhavethelotterystorynearlywrittenandamwonderingnowifBissellwillletmepublishit。WoulditnotbeagoodideatohaveDad，ifheknowshim，explainabouthowIwentSouthtowriteitandjustwhatitisandgethisofficialsanctionorshallIwriteorgettheHarper'stowritewhenIgetback。Thelotterypeopleinjokeoffered$10，000iftheycouldwritethestorythemselves。AndsometimesIwishtheywouldforitisthehardestkindofwork。IdonotwanttoadvertisetheiroldgameandyetIcannothelpdoingit，inaway。WeputinatPuntaArenasandIfoundawomanlookingatuswithanoperaglassandshortlyaftershesentouttosaysheknewmeandthatshewantedmetocomeup。ItseemedImetherinElizabeth，NewJerseywithEddieCowardwhereshewasplayinginprivatetheatricals。SincethenasapunishmentnodoubtshehaslivedhereandherhusbandisMinisteroftheNavywithonegunboat。ThistripisveryhotandIsleepondeckandlookupatthestarsandthelightonthejibandthesmokespoilingthefirmament。Itmakesyoufeelterriblyfarawayfromthecentreofcivilizationinfrontofthefireandyoualltryingtomakeoutwhereweareat。Ihopeyouknowmoreaboutitthanwedo。
ItistheworstcountryforgettingaboutthatIeverheardof。Ithasrevivedmyinterestandbeliefinallsuchbeautifulthingsasburiedtreasuresandhiddencitiesandshootingmenagainststonewallsandfilibusters。Therearenotmanyofthesestoriesbuteverymantellsthemdifferentlysotheyhaveallthefreshnessofanewtale。Thereisnoiceonthisboatorlemonsorsegars。Itisthefirsttimesotheysaythatithashappenedintwelvemonths，butafterthisitmustbebetter。AtPanamatheyfinetheiceman$1000
everydayhismachinebreaksandsowehavehopes。Ifeelsovery，veryselfishoffdownhereandleavingyouallaloneanditmakesmelosemytempermorethanusualwhenallthesedelaysoccurbutIpromisetobegoodhereafterandwewillbetogethersoonnowbytheendofMarchsureandIhopeyouwillnotmissmetoomuch，asmuchasImissallofyou。SometimesIwishyoucouldseesomeoftheseislandsandthelongshadowysharksandtheturtles，therearethousandsofturtlesasbigastubsjustfloatingaroundlikeemptybottles，butI
haveneveronthewholetakenatripwhenIsoseldomwishedthatthefamilywerearoundtoenjoyit。ItusedtohurtmeduringtheMediterraneantripbutthereisnotmuchthatwouldpleaseyouinthisoutfit。IlikeitbecauseIamsatisfiedtogodirtyforweeksatatimeandtotalktotheengineerorthequeerpassengersandtopickupstoriesandimprovemygeographybutIdonotthinkthescenerywouldcompensateeitherNoraoryouorDadforthelackofnecessitiesandCLEANTH。WhenwewerecrossingthecontinentIdon'tbelieveIhadaspotonmeasbigasanickelwithoutthreebitesonit，allsortsofbites，theyjustswarmedoveryouallsizes，colorsandvarieties。Theycamefromdogs，fromthesand，fromtrees，fromthegrass，fromtheair。
Theworstwerelittleredbugsthatlayundertheleavescalledcarrapati'sandthatcameoffonyouinahundredatatime。Andtherewerealso"jiggers"thatgetunderyournailsandleaveeggsthere。Sometimeswecouldnotsleepatallforthebitesandyouhadtocarryabrushtobrushthecarripatsoffeverytimeyoupassedthroughbushes。It'sthedamnedestcountryIwaseverinnowthatIhavetimetothinkofit。TheotherdayIwasgoingintobatheandthesandwassohotthatIcouldnotgettothebreakersandsoIwentyellingandjumpingbacktothegrassandthegrasswasjustonemassofburrs，soIgaveanotheryellandleapedontoabiglogandthelogwasfullofthorns。That'sthesortofcountryitis。Andthenafteryoudomakeadashforthesurfasharkmakesadashforyouandyoudon'tknowwhatyouarehereforanyway。Ithaditshumoroussideanditwasveryfunny，especiallyasitneverturnedoutotherwise，toseethemenscamperwhenthesharkscamein。
Theyneverscentedusfortenminutesorsoandthentheywouldswimupandwewouldgiveayellandallmakefortheshoreheadoverheelsandsplashingandshriekingandscaredandexcited。Therewouldalwaysbeonemanwhowasfurtheroutthantherestandhecouldnothearonaccountofthewavesandwewouldalllineuponthebeachandyellanddanceupanddownandtrytoattracthisattention。Butyouwouldseehimgoondivingandplayingalonginhorriblelonelinessuntilheturnedtospeaktosomeoneandfoundthemangoneandthenhewouldlookfortheothersandwhenhesawusallontheshorehewouldgiveonewildwhoopoutofhimandgofallingoverhimselfwithhishaironendandhiseyesandmouthwideopen。Isawonesharktenfeetlongbutwewouldhavediedoftheheatifwehadnotbathedsowethoughtitwasworthit。That'sovernowbecausewecannotgetanymoreseabathing。JustaroundPanama。
Finestplaceseenyet。
RICHARD。
PANAMA，February28th，1895。
DEARMOTHER:
GriscomhasawakenedtothefactthatheisaPresscorrespondentandisinterviewingrebelswhocomestealthilybynightfollowedbyspiesofthegovernmentandsitinGriscom'sroomwiththesonoftheConsulGeneral，asinterpreter。SomersetandIrefusetobeimplicatedandsitintheplazawaitingforafileofsoldierstocarryGriscomoffwhichisourcueforaction。Thereisaman-of-war，theAtlanta，theonewemadefriendswithatPuertoCortez，lyingatColonandsowefeelsafe。Wemaynowbesaidtobeabsorbinglocalcolor。ThatisaboutallwehavedonesinceweleftAmapala。Andifitwerenotthatyouareallaloneupthere，Iwouldnotmindit。Iwouldprobablycontinueon。WeknowitnowaswedoLondonorParis。Wecandistinguishseacaptains，lawyersinpolitics，commandantes，oldestresidents，gentlemenlygoodfornothings，shippingagentsandcommissiondealers，coffeeplantersandmenwhoare"onthebeach"withunerringeye。Weknowthestoryofeachbeforehetellsit，oritistoldbysomeoneelse。TheCommandanteshotalotofmenbythesideofaroadduringthelastrevolution，firstallowingthemtodigtheirowngravesandisherenowsothathecanpayhimselfbystealingthecustomdues，thelawyerpoliticianhasbeentoCornellandtakenamedicaldegreeinParisandaspirestobeadeputyandonlyremembersNewYorkasthehomeofLillianRussell。ThecommissionmerchantsareallGermansandthecoffeeplantersareallFrench。Theypointwithpridetolittlebare-footboyssellingseashellsandcocoanutsastheiroffspring，althoughtheycannotremembertheirnames。TheseacaptainsyoucantellbytheirreadymadeclothesofamaterialthatwouldbewarminAlaskaandbythemwearingSpanishdollarsforwatchguardsandbythewalkwhichisrollingeasilywhensoberandpitchingheavilytowardthenight。Theoldestresidentalwayssitsinfrontofthehotelandinthesameseat，withatortoiseshellcaneandrememberswhenVasquezorMendozaorBarrios，orBonillaoccupiedtheCathedralandfiredhotshotintothePalaceandeverybodytookrefugeintheEnglishConsulateandhehelpedguardthebankallnightwithaSpringfieldrifle。Themenwhoareonthebeachhavejustcomeoutofthehospitalwheretheyhavehadyellowfeverandtheywantfood。Thisstoryisintendedtoinduceyoutogetridofthemhurriedlybyasmalltoken。SometimesoutofthisqueercombinationyouwillgetagoodstorybutgenerallytheywanttoshowyouaruinedabbeyoradocumentasoldastheSpanishoccupationortomakeyouacquaintedwithamanwhohaspearlstosell，oracoffeeplantationoracollectionofunusedstampswhichhestolewhileapost-officeemployee。
Ourchiefsportnowistogothrowmoneyattheprisonerswhoarelockedupinarowofdungeonsunderneaththeseawall。Thepeoplewalkandflirtandenjoytheseabreezeabovethemandtheconvictsbyholdingamirrorbetweenthebarsofthedungeonscanseewhoisleaningovertheparapetabovethem。Thentheyholdouttheirhandsandyoudropnickelsandtheyfailtocatchthemandthesentrycomesupandteasesthembyholdingthemoneyafewinchesbeyondtheirreach。Theyclimballoverthecrossbarsintheiranxietytogetthemoneyandlooklikegreatmonkeys。Atnightitisperfectlytremendousfortheirisonlyalightovertheirheadsandtheycrawlalloverthebarsbeneaththis，standingoneachother'sshouldersandpushingandfightingandyellinghalfnakedandwholeyblackandcoveredwithsweat。AsamatteroffacttheyarebettercontenttostayinjailthanoutandwhentheBritishConsulofferedtosendeightofthembacktoJamaicatheyrefusedtogoandsaidtheywouldratherserveouttheirsentenceofeightyears。ThisisthewaytheplacelooksandIamgoingtointroduceitinamelodramaandhavesomeonelowerfilesdowntotheprisoners。
DICK。
AftersomenotveryeventfulorpleasantdaysatCaracas，Richardsailedforhomeandfromthesteamerwrotethefollowingletter:
March26th——OnboardS。S。Caracas。
DEARCHAS:
OffthecoastofGod'scountry。Hurrah!H——didnotcomenearusuntilthemorningofourdeparturewhenhearrivedattheStationtremblingalloverandinneedofashave。ButinthemeanwhiletheconsulatCaracaspickedGriscomandmyselfupinthestreetandtookusintoseeCrespowhoreceiveduswithmuchdignityandpoliteness。Sowemethimafterallandhelpedthestoryoutthatmuch。
ThereisnotmuchmoretotellexceptthatIwasneversogladtosetmyfacehomeasIamnowandeventheroughnessofthistripcannotsquelchmyjoy。ItseemstomeasifyearshadpassedsinceweleftandtothinkweareonlythreedaysofffromSandyHookseemsmuchtoowonderfullygoodtobepossible。SomedaywhenwehavedinedalonetogetheratLaurent'sIwilltellyouthelongstoryofhowSomersandGriscametobedecoratedwiththeOrderoftheBustofBolivartheLiberatorofVenezuelaofthe4thclassbutatpresentIwillonlysaythatthereisathirdclassoftheorderstillcomingtomeinCaracas，asthereis20minutesstillcomingtoKellyinBrooklyn。Itwasamatterofeithermygettingthethirdclass，whichIoughttohavehadanywayhavingthethirdclassofanotherorderalready，andTHEIRGETTINGNOTHING，orourallgettingthe4thor5thclassandofcourseIchoosethattheyshouldgetsomethingandsotheydidandformyaimableunselfishnessinthemattertheyhavefrequentlydrunkenmyhealth。IwasdelightedwhenSomersgothisforhewashappieroveritthanIhaveeverseenhimoveranythingandkeptmeawakenightstalkingaboutit。IconsideritthehandsomestorderthereisaftertheLegionofHonorandIhavebecomesocrazyaboutBolivarwhowasasecondWashingtonandNapoleonthatIamverygladtohaveit，althoughIstillsighforthethirdclasswithitsstarandcollar。
TheboysareespeciallygladbecausewehaveorganizedaTraveller'sClubofNewYorkofwhichweexpectgreatthingsandtheyconsiderthatitstartsoffwellinhavingthreeofthememberspossessorsofaforeignorder。WeformedtheclubwhilecrossingHondurasinsightofthePacificOceananditsobjectistogiveeachotherdinnersandtopresentaclubmedaltopeoplewhohavebeennicetoandwhohavehelpedmembersoftheclubwhiletheywereinforeignparts。
ItismyideaandIthinkagoodoneastherearelotsofthingsonewantstodoforpeoplewhohelpyouandthiswillbeasgoodasany。Membersoftheclubaretheonlypersonsnoteligibletoanymedalbestowedbytheclubandtheeligibilityformembershipisdeterminedbycertaindistanceswhichamanmusthavetravelled。Althoughtheideareallyistokeepitrightdowntoourowncrowdandmakeeachmanjustifythesmallnessoftheclub'smembershipbydoingsomethingworthwhile。IamPresident。Bonsalisvicepresident。RusselltreasurerandGriscomSecretary。Somersetisthesolitarymember。YouandSamandHelenandElizabethBislandareatpresenttheonlyhonorarymembers。WearealsogivinggoldmedalstothetwochapswhocrossedAsiaonbicycles，toWillieChanlerandJamesCreelman，butthatdoesnotmakethemmembers。Itonlyshowsweasaclubthinktheyhavedoneasportingact。Ihopeyouliketheidea。WehavegoneoveritforamonthandconsidereditineverywayandI
thinkweareallwellenoughknowntomakeanybodypleasedtohaveusrecognizewhattheydidwhetheritwasforanyofuspersonallyorforthepublicasexplorers。OnthistripforinstancewewouldprobablysendtheclubmedalsinsilvertoAdmiralMeade，toKelly，toRoyastheVenezuelanMinisterfortheorderstotheGovernorofBelize，totheconsulatLaGuayraandtooneofthephonographchaps。Inthesamewayifyouwouldwanttosendamedaltoanymanorwomanprinceordoctorwhohadbeenkind，courteous，hospitableorofofficialservicetoyouyouwouldjustsendinarequesttothecommittee。WritemesoonandwithlotsofloveDICK。
InApril，1895，RichardwasbackinNewYork，atworkonhisSouthandCentralAmericanarticles，andaccordingtothefollowingletters，havingagoodtimewithhisoldfriends。
NEWYORK，April27，1895。
DEARCHAS:
IreadinthepapertheothermorningthatJohnDrewwasinHarlem，soIsenthimatelegramsayingthatIwasorganizingareliefexpedition，andwouldbringhimoutofthewildernessinsafety。AttwelveIsentanotherreading，"NativesfrominteriorofHarlemreporthavingseenDavisReliefExpeditionaryForcecrossingCentralPark，allwell。RobertHowardRussell。"AttwoIgotholdofRussell，andwetelegraphed"ReliefreachedEighty-fifthstreet；nativespeacefullyinclined，awaitingrearcolumn，ledbyGriscom；
saveyourammunitionandprovisions。"Justbeforethecurtainfellwesentanother，reading:"Ifyoucanholdtheaudienceatbayforanotherhour，weguaranteetorescueyourselfandcompanyandbringyouallbacktothecoastinsafety。Donotbecomedisheartened。"ThenwestartedforHarleminacabwithGeorgeandanothercoloredmandressedasAfricanwarriors，withassegaidaggersandrobesofgoldandhighturbansandsashesstuckfullofswords。Iworemysombreroandridingbreeches，gauntletsandridingboots，withcartridgebeltsfullofbumcartridgesovermyshoulderandaroundthewaist。Russellhadmypithhelmetandasuitofkhakiandleggins。Griscomwasinoneofmycoatsofmanypockets，ahelmetandboots。Weallcarriedrevolvers，canteensandrifles。WesentGeorgeinwithanotesayingwewereoutsidethezarebaandcouldnotrescuehimbecausethemanonwatchobjectedtoourguns。AssoonastheysawGeorgetheyrushedoutandbroughtusallin。Drewwasonthestage，sowetrampedintothefirstentrance，followedbyallthegrips，stagehandsandmembersofthecompany。TheoldmanheardhiscuejustasIembracedhim，andwassorattledthatwhenhegotonthestagehecouldnotsayanything，andthecurtainwentdownwithoutanyoneknowingwhattheplotwasabout。WhenJohncameoff，Iwalkeduptohim，followedbytheotherfourandtheentirecompany，andsaid:"Mr。Drew，I
presume，"andhesaid:"Mr。Davis，Ibelieve。Iamsaved!"
HelenBenedicthappenedtobeinMaudeAdams'dressing-room，andwentoffintoafit，andthecompanywasdelightedasJohnwouldhavebeenhadhebeenquitesurewewerenotgoingonthestageorintoabox。Weleftthemafterwehadhadadrink，althoughthecompanybesoughtustostayandprotectthem，andgotasupperreadyinRussell'srooms，atwhichHelen，EthelBarrymore，JohnandMrs。Drew，MaudeAdamsandGriscomwerepresent。
DICK。
NEWYORK，November，1895。
DEARMOTHER:——
Thechinacupshavearrivedallrightandareabeautifuladditiontomycollectionandtomyroom，inwhichDaphnestillholdsfirstplace。
WhatdoyouthinkSirHenrysentme？Themedalandhislittleblackpipeinagreenvelvetboxaboutasbigastwobrickslaidsidebysidewithaheavyglasstopwithbevellededgesandthemedalandpipelyingonawhitesatinbed，bounddownwithsilver——andalargegoldplatewiththeinscription"ToRichardHardingDaviswiththewarmestgreetingsfromGregoryBrewster——1895"——Youhavenoideahowprettyitis，Bailey，BanksandBiddlemadeit——ItisjustlikehimtodoanythingsosweetandthoughtfulandithasattractedsomanypeoplethatIhavehaditlockedup——NoBurdenjewelrobbershere——Myfriend，theRussianO——ladystillpursuesmeandasshehasnosenseofhumorandtakeseverythingseriously，shefrightensme——Iamafraidshewillmoveinatanymoment——ShehasaskedmetospendthesummerwithheratParisandMonteCarlo，andathercountryplaceinNorfolkandbombardsmewithinvitationstosuppersandthingsinthemeantime。Shehasjustsentmeapictureofherselftwofeetbythree，withwritingalloveritandatanymoment，Iexpecthertoringthebellandorderhertrunkstakenupstairs——I
amtooattractive——LastnightIdinedwithHelenandMaudeAdams，whoisstayingwithher。Iwantthemtoboardmetoo。
MaudesangforusafterdinnerandthenwentofftoseeYvetteGuilbertata"sacredconcert"tostudyhermethods。IwenttoN——'sboxtohearMelbaandwechattedtotheaccompanimentofMelba，NordicaandPlanconinatrio——theOgre，worefur，pearls，whitesatinandviolets。Itwasapinksilkbox。ThenIwentdowntoareceptionatMrs。DeKoven'sandfounditwasaplay。EverybodywasseatedalreadysoIsquatteddownonthefloorinfrontofMrs。DeKovenandatallwomaninabrocadegowncutlikeaJapanesewoman's——
Itwasverydarkwheretheaudiencewas，soIcouldnotseeherfacebutwhenthepantomimewasoverIlookedupandsawitwasYvetteGuilbert。SoIgrabbedMrs。DeKovenandtoldhertopresentmeandGuilbertsaidinEnglish——"Itisnotcomfortableonthefloorisit？"andIsaid，"Ihavebeenatyourfeetforthreeyearsnow，soIamquiteusedtoit"——forwhichIwasmuchapplauded——AfterwardsItoldsomeonetotellherinFrenchthatIhadwrittenabookaboutParisandaboutherandthatIwasgoingtomarkitandsenditandbeforethewomancouldtranslate，Guilbertsaid，"No，sendmetheVanBipperebook"——Soweaskedherwhatshemeantandshesaid，"M。BourgettoldmetomeetyouandtoreadyourVanBippereBook，youareMr。Davis，areyounot？"——SoafterthatIownedtheplaceandrefusedtomeetMrs。Vanderbilt。
YvettehasofferedtoteachmeFrench，soIguessIwon'tgotoSomerset'swedding，unlessO——scaresmeoutofthecountry。Igotmy$2，000checkandhavepaidallmydebts。
TheywerenotathirdasmuchasIthoughttheywere，sothat'sallright。
Docomeovermother，assoonasyoucanandwewillmeetatJerseyCity，andhaveanicelunchandagoodtalk。GivemybestestlovetoDadandNora。HowwouldshelikeYvetteforasister-in-law？JohnHarehassentmeseatsfortonight——Heisverynice——Ihavebegunthestoryofthe"Servants'Ball"
andgotwellintoit。
andlotsoflove。
DICK。
ThefollowingletterwaswrittentomeatFlorence。Thenovelreferredtowas"SoldiersofFortune，"whicheventuallyprovedthemostsuccessfulbook，commercially，mybrothereverwrote。
Mrs。Hicks，towhomRichardfrequentlyrefers，isthewell-knownEnglishactressEllalineTerriss，thewifeofSeymourHicks。SomersetisSomersSomerset，thesonofLadyHenrySomerset，andtheFrohmanreferredtoisDanielFrohman，whowasthemanageroftheoldLyceumTheatre。
EarlyinNovember，WilliamR。HearstaskedmybrothertowriteadescriptionoftheYale-PrincetonfootballgameforTheJournal。Richarddidnotwanttowritethe"story"andbywayofapoliterefusalsaidhecouldnotundertakeitforlessthan$500。00。GreatlytohissurpriseHearstpromptlyacceptedtheoffer。Atthetime，Iimaginethiswasbyfarthelargestsumeverpaidawriterforreportingasingleevent。
December31st，1895。
NewYork。
ThePlayers。
NewYear'sEve。
DEARCHAS:
Iamnotmuchofaletterwriterthesedays，butIhavefinishedthenovelandthatmustmakeupforit。ItgoestotheScribnersfor$5，000whichisnotasmuchasIthinkI
shouldhavegotforit。IamnowlyingaroundhereuntilthefirstofFebruary，whenIexpecttosailtoSomerset'swedding，reachingyouinlittleoldFirenziinMarch。Wewillthenpaintit。AfterthatIdonotknowwhatIshalldo。
TheJournalisaftermetodoalmostanythingIwantatmyownfigure，asacorrespondent。TheyhavemadeRalphLondoncorrespondentandtheirpaperistheonlyonenowtostickto。
Theyaretryingtogetallthewellknownmenatbigprices。
IhavehadsuchagoodtimehelpingMrs。HicksinSeymour'sabsence。Shehadabouteverythinghappentoherthatispossibleandsheisjustthesortoflittlepersonyoulovetodothingsfor。ShefinallysailedandIamnowabletoattendtomyownfamily。
TheCentralAmericanandVenezuelanbookcomesoutonFebruarylst。SeveralofthepapersherejokinglyalludedtothefactthatmyarticleontheVenezuelanboundaryhadinspiredthePresident'smessage。Ofcourseyougetgarbledideasofthingsoverthereandexaggeratedones，asforinstance，ontheCoxeyarmy。Butyouneversawanythinglikethecountryafterthatwarmessage。ItwaslikelivingwithaBritishfleetoffSandyHook。
Everybodytalkedofitandofnothingelse。Iwenttoadinnerof300menallofdifferentcallingsandIdonotbelieveoneofthemspokeofanythingelse。Cabmen，carconductors，barkeepers，beggarsandpolicemen。AlltalkedwarandVenezuelaandtheDoctrineofMr。Monroe。Inthreedaysthecountrylostonethousandofmillionsofdollarsinvalues，whichgivesyouanideahowexpensivewaris。Itisworsethanrunninganewspaper。Now，almosteveryoneisforpeace，peaceatanyprice。Idonotknowofbutonejingopaper，TheSun，andwartalkisgreetedwithjeers。Itwasasifthepeoplehadsuddenlyhadtheireyesopenedtowhatitreallymeantandhavingseenwerewiserandwantednomoreofit。Yourbrother，personally，looksatitlikethis。
Salisburywastoblameinthefirstplaceforbeingrudeandnotofferingtoarbitrateashehadbeenaskedtodo。WhenhesaidtoCleveland，"It'snoneofyourbusiness"theonlyanswerwas"Well，I'llmakeitmybusiness"butinsteadofstoppingthere，Clevelandutteredacastironultimatuminsteadofleavingaloopholefordiplomacyandachanceforeitherorbothtobackout。That'swhereIblamehimasdoeseveryoneelse。
SamSothernisinChicagoandweallwrotehimguyinglettersaboutthewar。Helensaidshewasgoingtoengage"TheHeartofMaryland"companytoprotectherfrontyard，whileRussellandIhaveengaged"TheGirlILeftBehindMe"companywithBlanchWalshandtheoriginalcast。
WesentSomersetapictureofhimselfriddledwithbullets。
AndMrs。HicksmadeherselffamousbyaskingifitwasthatodiousDunraventheyweregoingtowarabout。
MyarticlewasaveryluckythingandisgreatlyquotedandinsocialgatheringsIamappealedtoasafinalauthority。
Thefootballstory，bytheway，didmeaheapofgoodwiththenewspapersandthepricewasquotedasthehighesteverpaidforapieceofreporting。Peoplesentforitsothattheeditionwasexhausted。TheJournalpeopleweregreatlypleased。
YvetteGuilbertisatHammerstein'sandcrowdsthenewmusichallnightly，attwodollarsaseat。IrvingandMissTerryhavebeenmostfriendlytomeandtothefamily。Frohmanisgoingtoput"Zenda"oninNewYorkbecausehehasplayedafailure，whichwillofcoursekillitfornextyearforEddie，whenhecomesoutasastar。Ihaveneverseensuchgeneralindignationoveraprivateaffair。BarrymorecalleditacaseofOllagaZenda。TheyevenwenttoBrooklynwhenEddiewasplayingthereandaskedhimtostagetheplayforthemandhowhemadehischangesandputonhiswhiskers。PoorEddie，helacksabusinessheadandabusinessmanager——andSamtalksandshakeshisheadbutislittlebetter。LotsofloveandbestwishesfortheNewYear。
DICK。
CHAPTERIX
MOSCOW，BUDAPEST，LONDON
Theyears1896——1897wereprobablythemostactiveofRichard'sveryactivelife。InthespaceoftwelvemonthshereportedtheCoronationatMoscow，theMillennialCelebrationatBudapest，theSpanish-CubanWar，theMcKinleyInauguration，theGreek-TurkishWarandtheQueen'sJubilee。Althoughthisrequiredagreatdealoftimespentintravelling，Richardstillfoundopportunitytodoconsiderableworkonhisnovel"CaptainMacklin，"towhichherefersinoneofhislettersfromLondon。
AscorrespondentoftheNewYorkAmerican，thenTheJournal，RichardwentfromFlorence，wherehewasvisitingme，toMoscow。HewasaccompaniedbyAugustusTrowbridge，anoldfriendofmybrother'sandararelygoodlinguist。ThelatterqualificationprovedofthegreatestpossibleassistancetoRichardinhiseffortstowitnesstheactualcoronationceremony。TohavefinallybeenadmittedtotheKremlinmybrotheralwaysregardedasoneofhisgreatestsuccessesasacorrespondent。
Enroute——May1896。
DEARCHAS:
Thenightispassedandwiththedaycomes"ahope"butduringtheblacknessIhad"asuffer"——Ireaduntiltwo——fivehours——andthensleptuntilfivewhenthemiddlemanwhohadsleptonmyshoulderallnightleftthetrainandthesecondonetowhomBernardiwassopoliteleftmealoneandhadtheporterfitmeupabedsothatIsleptuntilsevenagain——ThentheGuardianAngelreturnedforhistrapsandIbadehimasleepyadieuandwasstartledtoseetwosoldiersstandingshadingtheireyesinsaluteinthedoorwayandtwogentlemenbowingtomykindprotectorwiththeobsequiousnessofservants——Hesortofsmiledbackatmeandwalkedawaywiththesoldiersand13
porterscarryinghistraps。SoIrunguptheconductorandhesaiditwastheKing'sMinisterwithhiseyesstickingoutofhishead——theconductor'seyes——nottheMinister's。Idon'tknowwhataKing'sMinisterisbuthelikedyourwhiskey——IamnowpassingthroughtheAustrianTyrolwhichpleasesmesomuchthatIamchortlingwithjoy——Noneoftheplacesforwhichmyticketcallareonanymap——butdon'tyoucare，Idon'tcare——
IwishIcouldadequatelydescribelastnightwithnothingbuttunnelshoursinlengthsothatyouhadtohaveallthewindowsdownandtheroomlookedlikeasafeandfulloftobaccosmokeanddampspongeysmokefromtheengine，andbadair。ThatfirstcompartmentIwentinwasfilledlaterwithGermanwomenwhotookofftheirskirtsandthementookofftheirshoes。EverybodyintherearofthecarisfilthydirtybutIhadawashattheCustomhouseandnowIamalmostcleanandquitehappy。Thedayisbeautifulandthecompartmentisallmyown——IamabsolutelyenchantedwiththeTyrol——IhaveneverseensuchquaintpicturebookhousesandmillswithwheelslikethatintheGoodforNothingandcrucifixeswonderfullycarvedandsnowmountainsanddarkgreenforests——
TheskyisperfectandtheairisfilledwiththesunandthetrainmovessosmoothlythatIcanseelittleblueflowers，babyblue，Bavarianblueflowers，intheSpringgrass。Suchdearoldcastleslikebirdsnestsandsuchhomelikeoldmillsandred-facedmillerswithfeathersintheircapsyouneversawoutofacomicopera——ThemaninherewithmenowisaRussian，ofcourse，andsawthelastCoronationandknowsthatmysuiteisontheprincipalStreetandattendstomychangingmoneyandgettinganomelette——IcansurviveanothernightnowhavinghadanomelettenotsogoodasMadamMasi'sbutstillanomelette——IhavenowleftMunichandtheRussianandaconductorwhomImistookforahereditaryprinceofBavaria，withtasselsdownhisback，hasassuredmeheisgoingtoBerlin，andthatIamgoingtoBerlinandmuchelsetowhichI
smileknowinglyandsaymuchogracia，weewee，yaya，ichichlimmerandotherlongspeechesendingwith"aner——"
DICK。
May15th，1896。Moscow。
DEARCHAS:
WeleftBerlinMondaynightatelevenandsleptwellinawagon-lit。ThatwastheonlynightoutofthefivethatI
spentinthecarsthatIhadmyclothesoff，althoughIwasabletostretchoutontheseats，soIamcrampedandtirednow。AtsevenMondaymorningtheguardwokeusandtoldustogetreadyfortheCustomHouseandIlookedoutandsawamelancholycountryofgreenhillsandblackpinesandwithnosignofhumanlife。ItwasraininganddrearylookingandthenIsawaswepassedthemalineofpostspaintedinblackandwhitestripesahalfmileapartoneachsideofthetrainandIknewwehadcrossedtheboundaryandthatthelineofpostsstretchedfromtheArcticOceantotheBlackSeaandfromthePacifictotheCaucasusMountainsandthePamirs。ItgavemeagreatthrillbutIhavehadsomanyto-day，thatIhadalmostforgottenthatone。Fortwodayswejoggedalongthroughalevelcountrywithmeanthatchedhutsandblackcrowsflyingcontinuallyandpeasantsinsheepskincoats，fullintheskirtandtightatthewaist，withbootsorthongsofleatheraroundtheirfeet。
Thewomenworebootstooandallthemenwhowerenotsoldiershadtheirhaircroppedshortlikemops。Wecouldnotfindanyonewhounderstoodanylanguage，soasweneverknewwhenwewouldstopforfood，weateateverystationandIamoftheopinionthatformonthsIhavebeenlivingonhotteaandcaviarandhashsandwiches。ThesnowfellaninchdeeponWednesdayanddriedupagaininanhourandthesunshonethroughitall。
Soonthewholeitwasagoodtripandmostinteresting。ButherewearenowinaperfectpandemoniumandtheCzarhasnotyetcomenorone-fifthevenofthenotables。Itisagreatcity，immenseandoverpoweringinitsextent。Thehousesareuglylowstoriedandinhideouscolorsexceptthechurcheswhicharelikemosquesandpaintedeverycolor。IconfessI
feelbeatentonightbythenoiseandrushandroarandbysomanystrangefiguresandmarvellouscostumes。Ourroomsareperfectthatisonethingandthesituationistheverybest。
IfthemainstreetwereFifthAvenueandMadisonSquaretheGovernor'sSquare，hispalacewouldbeDelmonico'sandourroomswouldbethecornerroomsoftheBrunswick，soyoucanseehowwellweareplaced。WecansitinourwindowsandlookdownandupthemainstreetandseeeveryonewholeavesorcallsupontheGovernor。Wearenowgoingoutforadinnerandtooneofmanycafe-chantantsandIwilltellyoutherestto-morrow，whenIgetsleep，forafterfivenightsofitI
feeldoneup，butIfeelequallysureitisgoingtobeagreatexperienceandIcannottellyouhowglad1amthatI
came。LovetoyouallandtodearFlorenceinwhichTrowbridge，whoisabrick，joinsme。
DICK。
Moscow——May1896。
DEARCHAS:
TherewasagreatdealtotellwhenIshutdownlastnight，butIthoughtIwouldhavehadthingssettledbythistimeandwaited，butitlooksnowasthoughtherewastobenorestforthewearyuntiltheCzarhasputhiscrownonhishead。Thesituationisthis:thereareninetycorrespondents，andtwelvearetogetintothecoronation，twoofthesewillbeAmericans。Therearefivetryingforit。
CountDaschoff，theMinisteroftheCourt，hasthesayastowhogetsinofthosefive。T。andIcalledonhimwithmycredentialsjustashewasgoingout。NeverhaveIseensuchaswell。HemadeusfeellikedudesfromPaterson，NewJersey。Hehadthreediamondeaglesinanastrakancap，awhitecloak，agrayuniform，topbootsandthreerowsofmedals。HespokeEnglishperfectly，withthemostpolitelyinsolentmannerthatIhaveeverhadtolistento；andeightservants，eachofwhomwehad，inturn，mistakenforaprinceroyal，bowedathimallthebrieftimehetalkedoverourheads。Hesentustothebureauforcorrespondents，wheretheygavemeabadgeandapocketbook，withmyphotoinit。
Theyaregoodfornothing，excepttogetthroughthepolicelines。Nooneatthebureaugaveustheleastencouragementastomygettinginatthecoronation。Wewerefrantic，andIwentbacktoBreckenridge，ourMinister，andwrotehimalongletterexplainingwhathadhappened，andthatwhatIwrotewould"live，"thatIwasadvertisedandhadbeenadvertisedtowritethisstoryformonths。IdroppedTheJournalaltogether，andbeggedhimtorepresentmeasaliterarylightofthefinestcolor。ThishedidinaverystronglettertoDaschoff，andIpresenteditthismorning，buttheMinister，likeEdison，saidhewouldletmeknowwhenhecouldseeme。
ThenIwroteBreckaletterofthankssoelegantandcomplimentarythatheansweredwithanother，sayingifhisfirstfailedhewouldtryagain。Thatmeansheisforme，andatthebureautheysaywhicheveroneheinsistsonwillgetin，buttheyalsosayheissogood-naturedthathehelpseveryonewhocomes。Itoldhimthis，andhehaspromisedtocontinueinmybehalfassoonaswehearfromDaschoff。
Thesecondthingofimportanceisthegettingthestory，IF
WEGETIT，onthewire。That，Iamhappytosay，weareasassuredofasIcouldhopetobe。IowntheheadoftheTelegraphBureausoul，bodyandmind。HelovesthegroundT。
andIspurn，andhesentoutmyfirstcabletoday，oneofinterrogationmerely，aheadoftwelveothers；hehasalsogivenustheentreetoaprivatedoortohisoffice，alltheothercorrespondentshavingtogotothepress-roomsandundergoasortofpresscensorship，whichentailsoneachmanthecuttingupofhisstoryintothreeparts，soastogiveallachance。IgaveT。threedictumstoguidehim；thefirstwasthatwedidnotwantafairchance——wewantedanunfairadvantageovereveryoneelse。Second，toneveraccepta"No"
ora"Yes"fromasubordinate，buttotakeeverythingfromhead-quarters。Third，touseeverymouse，andnottotrusttothelions。Hehadpractiseonthetrain。WhenhetoldmewewouldbeinMoscowintenhours，Iwouldsay，"Whotoldyouthat，"andbackhewouldgototheHerrStationDirectorinaredgown，andreturntosaythatwewouldgetthereintwentyhours。BythistimeIwillmatchhimagainstanynewspapercorrespondentonearth。Heflatters，lies，threatensandbribeswithaskillandassurancethatissimplybeautiful，andhislanguagesandhismannerspullmeoutofholesfromwhichIcouldneverhaverisen。Withitallheisasmodestascanbe，andsaysIamthegreatestdiplomatoutofoffice，whichIreallythinkhebelieves，butIamonlyusingoldreporters'waysandapplyingthethingsothermendidfirst。
MybeststrokewastoaddtomycabletoTheJournal，"Recommendamplerecognitionofspecialfacilitiesaffordedbytelegraphofficial"——andthengethimtoreadithimselfunderthepretextofwishingtolearnifmywritingwaslegible。Hegrinnedalloverhimself，andsaiditwas。AftermyfirststoryisgoneIwillgivehim200roublesforhimselfinanenvelopeandsayJournalwiredmetodoit。Thatwillfixhimforthecoronationstory，asitamountstosixmonths'
wagesabout。But，mydearbrother，inyoursweetandlovelyhome，wherethesunshinesontheCascineandtheworkmensleeponthebridges，anddearoldladiesknitinthestreets，thatisonlyoneofthethousandthingswehavehadtodo。Itwouldtakeyearstogiveyouanaccountofwhatwehavedoneandwhywedoit。Itislikeagameofwhistandpokercombinedandwebluffontwoflimsyfours，andcrawlthenextminutetoamanthatholdsameaslytwo-spot。Thereisnotawirewehavenotpulled，oraleg，either，andwegodashingaboutalldayinabath-chair，withadriverinabellhatandabluenightgown，leavingcardsandwritingnotesandgivingdrinksandhavingsecretariestolunchandbuyingflowersforwivesandcigarboxesforhusbands，andthreateningtheMinisterwithCleveland'sname。
JohnA。Logan，Jr。，iscomingdressedinaRussianUniform，andheworeitonthesteamer，andsaysheisthespecialguestoftheCzarandtheSecretaryofthevisitingmission。
Mrs。P。P。ispaying$10，000forahotelforoneweek。Thatisallthegossipthereis。WelunchedwiththeMcCookstodayandenjoyedhearingAmericanspoken，andtheywereapparentlyverygladtohaveus，andmademuchofT。andofme。Weonlyhopetheycanhelpus；andIamtellingtheGeneraltheonlymantomeetisDaschoff，andwhenhedoesIwilltellhimtotellDaschoffIamtheonlymantobeallowedinthecoronation。IwishIcouldtellyouaboutthecity，butweseeitonlyoutofthecornerofoureyesaswedashtobureauafterbureauand"excellency"and"royalhighness"people，andthendashofftostrengthenotherbridgesandmakenewfriends。Itisgreatfun，andIamveryhappyandT。ishavingthetimeofhislife。HetoldmehewouldratherbewithmeonthistripthantravelwiththeGermanEmperor，andyouwillenjoytohearthathewroteSarahIwasthemost"good-natured"manheevermet。Godblessyouall，anddear，dearFlorence。Lotsoflove。
DICK。
Moscow——May，1896。
DEARCHAS:
Ihavejustsentoffmycoronationstory，andthestrainofthisthing，whichhasreallybeenonmeforsixmonths，isoff。Youcanimaginewhatareliefitis，or，rather，youcannot，fornoonewhohasnotbeenwithustheselasttendayscanknowwhatwehavehadtodo。ThestoryIsentisnotagoodone。Itwasimpossibletotellitbycable，andthefirstoneontheentrywasamuchbetterone。Idonotcaremuch，though；ofcourse，I
docare，asIoughttohavemadeagreathitwithit，buttherewasnotime，andtherewassomuchdetailandminutiathatI
couldnottreatitright。However，aftertheawfulpossibility，orrathercertainty，thatwehavehadtofaceofnotgettinganystoryatall，Iamonlytoothankful。Iwouldnotdoitagainfortenthousanddollars。EdwinArnold，whodiditforTheTelegraph，had$25，000，andifItoldyouofthewayHearstactedandRalphinterferedwithimpertinentcables，youwouldwonderIamsane。TheyneversentmeacentforthecablesuntilitwassolatethatIcouldnotgetitoutofthebank，andwehavespentandborrowedeverypennywehave。Imaginehavingtowriteastoryandtofighttobeallowedachancetowriteit，andatthesametimetobepressedformoneyforexpensesandtollssothatyouwerewornoutbythatalone。
Thebrightestsideofthewholethingwasthewayeverybodyinthistownwasfightingforme。Theentiretowntooksides，andevenmenwhodislikedme，andwhoIcertainlydislike，likeC。W。andR——oftheParisEmbassy，turnedinandfoughtformygettinginlikerelations。Andthewomen——Ihadgranddukesandambassadorsandprinces，whomIdonotknowbysight，movingeverylever，andasStanhopeofTheHerald，testified"everyman，womanandchildinthevisitingandresidentlegationiscrazyonthesubjectofgettingDavisintothecoronation。"Theymadeitapersonalmatter，andwhenIgotmylittlebluebadge，thewomenkissedmeandeachother，andcheered，andthemencametocongratulateme，andactedexactlyasthoughtheyhadgotitthemselves。
Itwasabeautifulsight；theCzarinamuchmorebeautifulandmoresad-lookingthaneverbefore。Butitwasnotsolemnenough，andthepriestsgroanedandwailedandchantedandsang，andeveryonestoodstillandlistened。AllthattheCzarandCzarinadidwasovertenminutesaftertheyenteredthechapel，andthenforthreehourstheprieststookthecenterofthestageandgroaned。Iwastherefromsevenuntilone。Sixsolidhoursstandingandwritingonmyhat。Itwasafinehat，forwewereincourtcostume，Ibeingadistinguishedvisitor，aswellasacorrespondent。Thatwasanotherthingthatannoyedme，becauseBreckinridge，whohasactedlikeabrick，didnotthinkhecouldputmeonbothlists，soIchosethecorrespondents'list，ofcourse，inhopesofseeingtheceremony，butknowingallthetimethatthatmeantnoballsorfunctions，sothathadIlosttheceremonyIwouldhavehadnothing；buthearrangeditsothatIamonbothlists。NotthatIcarenow。ForIamtiredtodeath；andTrowbridgedidnotgetoneitherlist，thankstothedamnedJournalandtohisusingallhisfriendstohelpme，sothatIguessIwillgetoutandgotoBudaPestandmeetyouinParis。Donotconsiderthistooseriously，forI