amwritingitjustafterfinishingmycableandhavingspentthemorningonmytoesinthechapel。Iwillfeelbettertomorrow。Anyway，itisdoneandIamglad，asitwasthesightofthecentury，andIwasinit，andnowIcanspendmygoodtimeandmoneyingayParee。Lovetoall。
DICK。
FromMoscowRichardwentdirecttoBudaPest，wherehewroteanarticleontheHungarianMillennial。
BUDAPEST
CHAS:May8th，1896。
IhavejustreturnedfromtheprocessionoftheHungarianNobles。ItwasevenmorebeautifulandmoreinterestingthantheCzar'sentrythanwhichIwouldnothavebelievedanythingcouldhavebeenmoreimpressive——Butthefirstwasmilitary，exceptforthecarriages，whichwerelikesomethingoutoffairyland——to-day，thecostumeswerealldifferentandmediaeval，someninehundredyearsoldandnonenearerthanthe15thCentury。Themisenscenewasalsomuchbetter。
Budaisaclean，oldburgh，withyellowhousesrisingonasteepgreenhill，redroofsandtowersanddomes，showingoutofthetrees——Itisveryhighbutverysteepandtheprocessionwoundinandoutlikeafairypicture——Isatonthetopofthehill，lookingdownittotheDanube，whichseparatesBudafromPest——TheEmperorsatacrossthesquareabout75yardsfromourtribuneinthebalconyofhispalace。
WesatinthePalaceyardandtheprocessionpassedandturnedinfrontofus——Therewereabout1，500nobles，eachdressedtosuithimself，incostumesthathaddescendedforgenerations——ofbrocade，silk，fur，andgoldandsilvercloth——Eachcostumeaveraged，withthetrappingsofthehorse，5，000dollars。Somecost$1，000，some$15，000。Someworecompletesuitsofchainarmor，withbearskinsandgreatblackeaglefeathersontheirspearsjustastheywerewhentheyinvadedRome——Othersworegoldchainarmorandleopardorwolfskinsandtheirhorseswerestuddedwithturquoisesandtrappingsofgoldandsilverandsmotheredinsilvercoins——Itwouldhavebeenridiculousiftheyhadnotbeentherealthingineverydetailandifyouhadnotknownhowterriblyinearnestthemenwere。Thereisnoothercountryintheworldwheremenchangefromthemostblaseandcorrectofbeings，tofairyprincesintightsandfeathersandjewelledbeltsandsatincoats——Theywereanhourinpassingandeachoneseemedmorebeautifulthantheothers——IamverygladIcamealthoughIwasdisappointedatmissingtheaccidentatMoscow。ItmusthavebeenmoreterriblethanJohnstown。Ifoundthe——squiteconvertedintothemostawfulsnobsbutthepeopletheyworshipareassimpleandwellbredasallgentlepeopleareandIhavehadthemostdelightfultimewiththem。ItissosmallandquietafterMoscow，andinsteadofbeinglostinanavalancheofembassiesandsuitesandmissions，Ihaveadistinctpersonality，as"theAmerican，"whichIsharewith"the"FrenchmanandfourEnglishmen。Wearetheonlysixstrangersandtheygiveustherunofallthatisgoingon——Atnightwedineatthemostremarkableclubintheworld，ontheborderofthePark，wherethebestofalltheGypseymusiciansplaysforus——Themusicisaloneworthhavingcometohear，andthedearsoulswhoplayit，havingbeentoldthatIlikeitfollowmeallaroundtheterraceandsitdownthreefeetawayandfixtheireyesonyou，andthenproceedtopullyournervesandheartoutofyouforanhouratatime——Onenightamanheredippedatenthousandfrancnoteinhischampagneandpasteditontheleader'sviolinandbowedhisthanks，andtheleaderbowedinreturnandthenextmorningsenthimthenotebackinanenvelope，sayingthatthecomplimentwasworthmorethanthemoney——Theleader'snameisBercheyandtheHungarianshaveneverallowedhimtoleavethecountryforfearhewouldnotbeallowedtocomeback——Heisafat，halfdrunkenlookingman，withhiseyesfulloftearshalfthetimeheplays。Helooksjustlikeasetterdogandheissoterriblyinearnestthatwhenhefixesmewithhiseyesandplaysatme，thecourtladiesallgetupandmovetheirchairsoutofhiswayjustasthoughhewereasomnambulist——
IleavehereWednesdayandreachParisFridayMORNINGtheeleventh——YoumusttrytomeetmeattheCafedelaPaixathalfpastnine——Waitinthecornerroomifyoudon'twishtositoutsideandassoonasIgetwashedIwilljoinyouforcoffee。Itwillbefinetoseeyouagainandtobedonewithjumpingaboutfromhoteltohotelandtobeabletoreadthesignsandtoknowhowtoaskforfood。Russian，GermanandHungarianhavemadeFrenchseemlikemymothertongue——
DICK。
CHAPTERX
CAMPAIGNINGINCUBAANDGREECE
InDecember，1896，RichardandFredericRemington，theartist，werecommissionedbytheNewYorkJournaltovisitCubawhichwasthenatwarwithSpain。ItwastheirintentiontogofromKeyWestintheVamoose，averyfastbutfrailsteam-launch，andtomakealandingatsomeuninhabitedpointontheCubancoast。Afterthistheirplansseemtohavebeentotrusttoluckandthekindlinessoftherevolutionists。
AfterwaitingforsometimeatKeyWestforfavorableweather，theyatlaststartedoutonadarknighttomakethecrossing。
AfewhoursaftertheVamoosehadleftKeyWestaheavystormarose——apparentlymuchtooviolentfortheslightlybuiltlaunch。ThecrewstruckandthecaptainfinallyrefusedtogoontoCubaandputbacktoKeyWest。ShortlyafterthisRemingtonandmybrotherreachedHavanabyamoresimpleandostentatiousroute。Thiswasmybrother'sfirsteffortasawarcorrespondent，andIpresumeitwasthisfactandtheveryindefinitenessoftheoriginalplanthatcausedhismotherandfathersomuchuneasiness。And，indeed，itdidproveeventuallyahazardousexploit。
waytoKeyWest。
December19，1896。
DEARMOTHER:
Ihopeyouwon'tbecrosswithmeforgoingoffandnotlettingyouknow，butIthoughtitwasbettertodoitthatwayastherewassuchdelayinourgettingstarted。IamgoingtoCubabywayofKeyWestwithFredericRemingtonandMichaelson，acorrespondentwhohasbeenthereforsixmonths。WearetobetakenbytheVamoosethefasteststeamyachtmadetoSantaClaraprovincewheretheCubanswillmeetusandtakeustoGomez。Wewillstayamonthwithhim，theyachtcallingforcopyandsketchesonceaweek，andfinallyforusinamonth。IgetallmyexpensesandTheJournalpaysme$3，000forthemonth'swork。TheHarper'sMagazinealsotakesastoryatsixhundreddollarsandRussellwillreprintRemington'ssketchesandmystoryinbookform，soIshallprobablyclear$4，000inthenextmonthorsixweeks。IwasaweekingettinginformationonthesubjectsoIknowallaboutitfromthemenwhohavejustbeenthereandIwantyoutopayattentiontowhatItellyoutheytoldmeandnottolistentoanystrayvisitorwhocomesinforteaandtalkswithoutanytactorknowledge。Thereisnodangerinthetripexcepttheproblemofgettingthereandgettingawayagain，andthatisnowremovedbyTheJournal'syacht。Iwouldhavegoneearlierhadanyoftheperiodicalsthataskedmetogoshownmeanywaytogetthere——THEREIS
NOFEVERTHISTIMEOFYEARandasyouknowfevernevertouchesme。ItgotalltheothersinCentralAmericaandneverworriedmeatall。Thereisnodangerofgettingshot，astheprovinceintowhichwego，theSantaClaraprovince，isownedandpopulatedandpatrolledbytheCubans。ItisnomoreSpanishthanNewJerseyandtheSpaniardscannotgetinthere。WehavethestrongestpossiblelettersfromtheJunta，andIhavefromLamont，BayardandOlneyandcredentialsineverylanguage。WewillsitaroundtheGomezcampandsendmessengersbacktothecoast。ItisathreedaystripandasGomezmaybemovingfromplacetoplaceyoumaynothearfromusforamonthandwemaynothearfromyoubutrememberitwasamuchlongertimethanthatbeforeyouheardfrommewhenIwenttoHonduras。AlsokeepinmindthatIamgoingasacorrespondentonlyandmustkeepoutofthewayoffightingandthatImeantodoso，asChamberlainsayswewantdescriptivestoriesnotbravedeeds——MajorFlintwhohasarrangedthetripforuswasdowntherewithMaceoasacorrespondent。Hesawsixfightsandnevershotoffhisgunoncebecauseashesaiditwasnothisbusinesstokillpeopleandhehaspersuadedmethatheisright，soIwon'tdoanythingbutlookon——IhaveboughtatTheJournal'sexpenseafiftydollarfieldglasswhichisanewinventionandthebestmade。IhavemarkeditsothatyoucanseeamanfivemilesoffandassoonasIseehimImeantobegintorideorruntheotherway——nooneloveshimselfmorethanIdosoyouleavemetotakecareofmyself。IwishIcouldgiveyouanyideaofthecontemptthefourreturnedcorrespondentswhotalkedtome，havefortheSpaniards。Theyhaveseenthemshoot2，500roundswithouthittingmenat200yardsandtheyrunawayiftheenemybeginsonthemfirst。However，youtrusttoRichard——WehaveafineescortarrangedforusandMichaelsonspeaksSpanishperfectlyandhasbeensixmonthsscoutingoverthecountry。
DICK。
KEYWest，December26，1896。
DEARFAMILY:
Igotyourletterslatelastnightandtheymademeprettysolemn。ItisanawfullysolemnthingtohavepeoplecareforyoulikethatandtocareforthemasI
do。Ican'ttellyouhowmuchIloveyou。Youdon'tknowhowmuchthepainofworryingyouforamonthhasmeanttome，butIhavetalkeditalloutwithmyself，andleftittoGodandI
amsureIamdoingright。AsMrs。Crownsaid，"There'sawholechurchfuluphereprayingforyou，"andIguessthatwillpullmethrough。Ofcourse，dear，dearMotherthoughtshewascrosswithme。Shecouldnotbecrosswithme，andherlettertoldmehowmuchshecared，thatwasall，andmademebeextracareful。ButIneednotpromiseyoutobecareful。YouhaveanideaIamawild，filibustering，hot-headedyoungman。Iamnot。Igavetheguidestounderstandtheirdutywastokeepusoutofdangerifwehadtowalkmilestoavoidit。Wearemenofpeace，goingin，asrealestateagentsandcoffee-plantersanddrummersaregoinginoneverysteamer，toattendtoourespecialworkandgetoutagainquick。IhavejustasstrongaprejudiceagainstkillingamanasIhaveagainsthiskillingme。
Lotsandlotsoflove。Don'tgetscaredifyoudon'thearforamonth，althoughwewilltrytogetourstoriesbackonceaweek，butyouknowweareattheconvenienceoftheCubanswhowillpocketourdespatchesandmoneyandnottakethelongtripback。ThankdearDadforhisletterfullofgoodadvice。
Itwasexcellent。RemingtonandMichelsonaregoodmenandI
likethemimmensely。Alreadywearefirmfriends。
Love，KEYWEST——January1，1897。
DEARMOTHER:
Asyouwillknowbymytelegramweareeitheroffonasafeseagoingboatorwaitingforone。ThereisnoturningbackfromhereandtheonlyreasonIthoughtofdoingsowastheknowledgeofthewayyouwouldsufferandworry。IargueditoutthatitwasselfishinmetoweighmygettinglaughedatandparagraphedasthewarcorrespondentthatalwaysTurnedBackagainstamonthofuneasinessforyou，butlaterIsawIcouldnotdoitmuchasIloveyoufortheelementofdangertomeisnon-existent；itismerelyanexcitingadventureandyouwillhavetobelievemeandnotworrybutbeaSpartanmother。I
wouldnotcountbeinglaughedatandthelossofmyownselfrespectifIreallythoughttherewasgreatdanger，butIdonot。
YouwillnotlosemeandifIgonowIcansitstillnexttimeandsay"Ihavedonebetterthingsthanthat。"IfIhadnotgoneitwouldhavemeantthatIwouldhavehadtohavedonejustthatmuchharderastuntnexttimetomakepeopleforgetthatIhadfailedinthisone。NowdocheerupandbelieveintheluckofRichardHardingDavisandtheBritishArmy。WehavecarteblanchefromTheJournaltobuyorleaseanyboatonthecoastandIrockedthemfor$1000inadvancepaymentbecauseofthedelayovertheVamoose。
IamsohappyatthinkingIamgoing，IcouldnothavefacedanyonehadInot，althoughwehadnothingtodowiththefailure，wetriedtocrossfairlyinthedamntubanditwashercaptainwhoputback。Ilayoutonthedeckandcriedwhenherefusedtogoahead，wehadwaitedsolong。TheCubansandRemingtonandMichelsonhadputonalltheirridingthingsbutfortunatelyIhadnotandsowassparedthathumiliation。WhatIdon'tknowabouttheFineArtofFilibusteringnowisunnecessary。IfindmanyfriendsofmyCaptainBoyntonor"Capt。Burke。"TonighttheofficersoftheRaleighgivemeagranddinneratwhichIwearadresssuitandmakespeeches——theyarethebestchapsIevermetintheNavy。
LotsofloveandbestwishestoDadandtoNoraforahappy，happyNewYear。Youknowmeandyouknowmyconsciencebutitwouldnotletmegobackinordertosaveyouanxietysoyouwon'tthinkmeselfish。Godblessyou。
DICK。
KEYWEST，January2nd，1897。
DEARFAMILY:
IhavelearnedherethatthefirstqualityneededtomakeagreatfilibusterisPatience，itisnotcourage，orresourcesoraknowledgeoftheCubanCoastline，itispatience。
Anybodycanrunaboatintoadarkbayouanddumpriflesonthebeachandscurryawaytoseaagainbutonlyheroescansitforamonthonahotelporchorattheendofawharf，andwait。ThatisallwedoandthatismylifeatKeyWest。I
getupandhalfdressandtakeaplungeinthebayandthendressfullyandhaveagreasybreakfastandthenlightahugeKeyWestcigar，pricethreecentsandsitonthehotelporchwithmyfeetonarail——Nothinghappensafterthatexceptgettingone'sbootspolishedasthetwoindustriesofthisplaceareblackingbootsanddrivingcabs。Ihavetwoboystoblackmineatthesametimeeverymorningandpaytheonewhodoeshisthebetterofthetwo——Itgenerallyendsinafightsothataffordsdiversion——Thenamancomesalong，anyman，andsays，"Remmington'slookingforyou"andIgetupandlookforRemington。ThereisonlyatriangleofstreetswhereonecanfindhimandIcallat"Josh"Curry'sfirstandthenatPendleton'sNewsStoreandreadallthebacknumbersofthePoliceGazetteforthehundredthtimeandthencallhereattheCustomHouseandthenlookinattheCableoffice，whereMichaelsonlivessendingtelegramsaboutanythingornothingandthatbringsmebacktothehotelporchagain，whereIhavemybootsshinedoncemoreandthengointomid-daydinner。InthemeanwhileRemingtonislookingformeahundredyardsintherear。Hegenerallygetsto"Josh's"asIleavetheCustomHouse——IntheafternoonIstudySpanishoutofatextbookandatthreetakeabicycleride，atfiveI
callatthegarrisontotaketeawiththedoctorandhiswife，whoissweeterthanangel'severgettobewithaminiatureangelofababycalledMartha。Iwaituntilretreatissoundedandthegunisfiredatsunsetandhavingcommentedunfavorablyonthewaythesoldierslettheflagdroponthegrassinsteadofcatchingitonthearmsasabluejacketdoes，Irideofftothebayforanotherbath——ThenItakethelaunchtotheRaleighanddinewiththeofficersandrejoiceinthecleanfreshpaintandbrassanddecksandthelightsandblackplacesofagreatshipofwar，thanwhichnothingismoresplendid。Wesitonthequarter-deckandsmokeandplaytheguitarandIgohomeagain，intimeforbed。Ivarythisprogrammeoccasionallybyspendingthemorningontheendofawharfwatchinganothermanfishandreadingoldnovelsandthe"LivesofCaptainWalker"and"CaptainFryoftheVirginius，"
twogreatbooksfromeachofwhichIamgoingtowriteashortstoryliketheoneoftheAlamooroftheJamesonRaid——ThelifeofWalkerIfoundontheRaleighandthelifeofCaptainFrywithalltheoldwoodcutsandthenewspapercommentsofthetimeatabookstorehere。Idon'tknowwhenweshallgetawaybutitisnousekickingaboutit，Michaelsonisdoingallhecanandthenewtugwillbealonginaweekanyway。IshallbesogladtogettoCubathatIwilldancewithglee。
DICK。
MATANZAS，January15th，1897。
DEARMOTHER:
IsentyouanotebyRemingtonwhichhewillmailintheStates——FromhereIgotoSaguaLaGrande。Itisonthenortherncoast。IthinkfromthereIshallcrossovertoCienfuegosontheSoutherncoastandthenifIcancatchasteamergotoSantiagotoseemyoldfriends，attheJuraquaminesandMacWilliams'oreroadand"thePalms"——EverywhereI
amtreatedwellonaccountofWeyler'sorderandIamlearningagreatdealandtalkingverylittle，mySpanishbeingbad。
Thereiswarhereandnomistakeandallthepeopleinthefieldshavebeenorderedintothefortifiedtownswheretheyarestarvinganddyingofdisease。YesterdayIsawthehousesofthesepeopleburningonbothsidesofthetrack——Theygavesheltertotheinsurgentsandsoverysoontheyfoundtheirhousesgone。
IamsorelievedatgettingoldRemingtontogoasthoughIhadwon$5000。Hewasasplendidfellowbutaperfectkidandhadtobehumoredandpettedallthetime。I
shallifIhaveluckbethroughwiththisinafewweeksbutithashadsuchasetbackatthestartthatIamafraiditcannevermakeabookandIdoubtifIcanwriteadecentarticleeven。IamsoanxiousnottokeepyouworryinganylongerthanisnecessaryandsoIamhurryingalongtakingonlyacarwindowviewofthings。AddressmecareofConsulGeneralLee，Havanaandconfineyourremarkstowhatisgoingonathome。Iknowwhatisgoingonhere。Idon'tbelievehalfIhearbutIambeingslowlyconverted。RemingtonismoreexcitablethanIam，sodon'tmisunderstandifhestartsinviolently。Iamgettingdetailsandverifyingthings。HeisrightonabigscalebuteveryonehasliedsoaboutthisislandthatIdonotwanttosayanythingIdonotbelieveistrue。
ThisisabeautifullittlecityandafterJaruco，whereweslepttwodaysago，itisParis。Therewesleptoffthebarnyardandcowsandchickenswalkedalloverthefloorandfleasalloverus。ItwaslikeHondurasonlyfilthier。SpeakingofParis，telltheKidIexpecttogoovertohimsoonafterIreturntoNewYork。
oflove。
DICK。
CARDENAS——NorthCoastofCuba。
January16th，1897。
DEARMOTHER:
Itisveryfunnynotknowingwhatsortofaplaceyouaretosleepinnextandtakingthingsoutofagrabbag，asitwere——InEuropeyoucanalwaysguesswhatthewellknowntownswillgiveyouforyouhaveaguidebook，buthereitisallluck。Matanzaswasaprettycitybutthepeoplewereawful，thehotelwasSpanishandtheproprietorinsolent，thoughIwasspendingmoreofWillieHearst'smoneythanalloftheofficersspendinaweek，theConsulcouldnottalkEnglishorSpanish，hesaidhehadn'tcomethere"togotoschooltonoSpaniard"andhegloriedinthefacthehadbeentherethreeyearswithoutknowingawordofthelanguage。Hisvice-Consulwasworseandeverythingwentwronggenerally。
EveryoneImetwasanAlarmistandthatispoliteforliar。
TheyaskedRemingtonifhewasthemanwhomanufacturedtheriflesandgaveustheIowaDemocrattoread。TonightIreachedhereafterasixhoursridethroughblazingfieldsofsugarcaneandstoppedonmywaytothehoteltoasktheConsulwhenthenextboatwenttoSaqualaGrande——IhadnoletterofintroductiontohimasIhadtotheMatanzasconsul，butassoonashesawmycardhegotoutofhischairandshookhandsagainandwasasheartyandwellbredanddelightfulasCharleyhimselfandunlikeChashedidnotaskme14francsforlookingonhim。
Heisoutnowchasingaroundtogetmeatrainforto-morrow。
ButIwon'tgoto-morrow。Myhotellooksontheplazaandtheproprietorandthewholesuiteofattendantsaremyslaves。Itisjustasdifferentascanbe。Myinterpreterdoesit，hecallshimselfMYVALET，althoughIpointouttohimthattwoshirtsandtwelvecollarsdonotconstituteawardrobeevenwitharubbercoatthrownin。ButhelikestoplayatmybeingadistinguishedstrangerandIcan'tsayIobject。OnlywhenyourememberthewayIwasinvitedtoseeCubaandexpectedtoseeit，andnowthewayIamseeingitfromcarwindowswithAVALET。Whatwouldthenewschoolofyellowkidjournalistssayiftheyknewthat。ForthefirsttimeonthistripIhavewishedyouwerebothwithme，thatwastonight。Ineverseeanythingreallybeautifulbutthatitinstantlymakesmefeelselfishandwishyoucouldseeittoo。
IthashappenedagainandagainandtonightIwishyoucouldbeherewithmeonthisbalcony。ThetownrunsdownaslopetothebayandinthemiddleofitisthePlazawithmeonthebalconywhichletsoutofmysleepingroom——"theroom"sotheproprietortellsme，"reservedonlyfortheCapitainGeneral。"
ItisjustlikethedescriptioninthatremarkablenovelofminewhereClayandAlicesitonthebalconyoftherestaurant。
IhavethemoonlightandtheCathedralwiththeopendoorsandthebronzestatueinthemiddleandtheroyalpalmsmovinginthebreezestraightfromtheseaandthepeoplewalkingaroundtheplazabelow。IfitwasinanywayasbeautifulasthisClayandAlicewouldhaveendedthenovelthatnight。
Igotagrandlotoflettersto-daywhichOtto，myinterpreterbroughtbackfromHavanaafterhavingconductedRemingtonthereinsafety。Imustsayyouarewritingverycheerfullynow，butIdon'twonderyouworriedatfirstbutnowthatIamacommercialtravellerwithanorderfromWeylerwhichdoeseverythingwhenIfinditnecessary，youreallymustnotworryanymorebutjustletmecontinueonmyuneventfuljourneyandthencomehome。Ishallhavebeengonesolongandmyfriends，judgingfromRussellandDanaandIrene'sletters，willbesogladtoseeme，thattheywillhaveforgottenI
wentouttodootherthingsthancoastaroundintrains。Asamatteroffactthisisaterriblybigproblemandmostdifficulttogetthetruthof，Ifindmyselfgrowingtobetheoppositeofthealarmist，whateverthatis，althoughyouwouldthinkthepicturesqueanddramaticandexcitingthingwouldbetheoneIwouldratherbelievebecauseIwanttobelieveit，butIfindthatthatisnotso，IseeagreatdealonbothsidesandIdonotbelievehalfIamtold。Asweusedtosayatcollege，"itisagainsthistory，"anditisagainsthistoryformentoactasIamtoldtheyareactinghere——Theyshowmethepueblohuddledtogetheraroundthefortifiedtowns，livinginpalmhutsbutIknowthattheyhavealwayslivedinpalmhuts，theyellowkidreportersdon'tknowthatorconsiderit，butsendoffwordthattheconditionofthepeopleisterrible，thattheyhaveonlyleavestocoverthem，anditsoundsverybadly。ThatisaninstanceofwhatImean。Inabigwaythereisnodoubtthattheprocessgoingonhereisoneofexterminationandruin。TwoyearsagotheamountofsugarshippedfromtheportofMatanzastotheU。S。wasvaluedat11
millionsayear。Thislastyearjustovershowsthatsugartotheamountof$800，000wassentout。In'94，154vesselstouchedatMatanzasontheirwaytoAmerica。In'95therewere80andin'96thereare16。Ialwaysimaginedthathousesweredestroyedduringawarbecausetheygotinthewayofcannonballsortheywereburnedbecausetheymightoffersheltertotheenemy，butheretheyaredestroyed，withthepurposeofmakingthewarhorribleandhurryinguptheend。Theinsurgentsbeganfirstbydestroyingthesugarmills，someofwhichwereworthmillionsofdollarsinmachinery，andnowtheSpaniardsareburningthehomesofthepeopleandherdingtheminaroundthetownstostarveouttheinsurgentsandtoleavethemwithoutshelterorplacestogoforfoodortohidethewounded。Soalldaylongwhereeveryoulookyouseegreatheavycolumnsofsmokerisingintothisbeautifulskyabovethemagnificentpalmsthemostnobleofallpalms，almostofalltrees——ItisthemostbeautifulcountryIhaveevervisited。IhadnorecollectionofhowbeautifulitwasorelseIhadnottheknowledgeofotherplaceswithwhichtocompareit。Nothingoutoftheimaginationcanapproachitinitsgreatwaterfallsandmossyrocksandgrandplainsandforestsofwhitepillarswithplumeswavingabovethem。Onlymanisvilehereanditiscrueltoseethewallsofthehouseswithblindeyes，withroofsgoneandgardensburned，everychurchbutonethatIhaveseenwasafortresswithhammocksswungfromthealtarsandrudebarricadesthrownuparoundthedoorways——IfthisiswarIamoftheopinionthatitisasenselesswickedinstitutionmadeforsoldiers，loversandcorrespondentsfordifferentreasons，andfornooneelseintheworldanditistooexpensivefortheotherstokeepitgoingtoentertainthesefewgentlemen——IhaveseenverylittleofityetandIprobablywon'tseemuchmore，butIhaveseenallIwant。
Remingtonhadhismindsatisfiedevensooner——butthenheisanalarmistandexaggeratesthings——Themenwhoweartheredbadgeofcourage，Idon'tfeelsorryfor，theyhavetheirrewardintheirbloodybandagesandthelittlecrossontheirtunicbutthoseyoumeetcomingbacksickanddyingwithfeveraretheonesthatmakefightingcontemptible——poorlittlefarmers，poorlittlechildrenwithnointerestinCubaorSpain'srighttoholdit，whohavebeensentouttodielikeantsbeforetheyhavelearnedtoholdamauser，andwhoaregoingbackagainwiththebeardsthathavegrowninthefieldhospitalsontheircheeksandtheireyeshollow，andtooweaktomoveorspeak。SixofthemdiedwhileIwasinJaroco，atownasbigasMarionandthathadbeentheaveragefortwomonths，thinkofthat，sixpeopledyinginMarioneverydaythroughJulyandAugust——Ididn'tstayinthattownanylongerthanthetraindid——WellIhavebeenwritingeditorialshereinsteadofcheeringyouupbutIguessI'maboutrightandwhenIseealittlemoreI'lltellitoveragaintoTheJournal——ItisnotasexcitingreadingasdeedsofdaringbyourspecialcorrespondentandIhaven'tchangedmynameorshavedmyeyebrowsordoneanythingtheothermenhavedonebutIbelieveI
amgettingnearthetruth。Theyhaveshutoffprovisionsgoingorcomingfromthetowns，theyhavehuddledhundredsofpeoplewhodonotknowwhatabathmeansaroundthesetowns，andthisisgoingtohappen——AssoonastherainsbegintheyellowfeverandsmallpoxwillsetinandallvesselsleavingCubanportswillbequarantinedandtheislandwillbeonegreatplaguespot。Theinsurgentswhoareintheopenfieldswillliveandthesoldierswilldiefortheirofficersknownothingofsanitationorcarenothing。ThelittleConsulhasjustbeenheretoseemeandwehavehadalongtalkandIgotbackathim。HetoldmehehadseentheFranco-GermanwarasacorrespondentofTheTribuneandIaskedhimifhehadevermetanothercorrespondentofTheTribuneatthattimeaGermanstudentnamedHanswhocabledthestoryofthebattleofGravelloteandwhoArchibaldForbessayswasthefirstcorrespondenttousethecable。TheConsulwholookslikeWilliamD。Howellswriggledaroundinhischairandsaid"IguessyoumeanmebutIwasnotaGermanstudent，IwasbornandraisedinPhiladelphiaandForbesgotmynamewrong，itisHance。"SothenIgotupandshookhandswithhiminmyturnandtoldhimIhadalwayswantedtomeetthatcorrespondentanddidnotexpecttodosoinCardenas，onthecoastofCuba。
Thankyouallforyourletters。IamgladyoulikedtheJamesonbook。IthoughtyouknewIwasaF。R。G。S。ItwasGeorgeCurzonproposedmeandasheisagoldmedallistoftheSocietyitwaseasygettingin。Lotsoflove。
DICK。
RichardreturnedtoNewYorkfromCubainFebruary，1897，butthefollowingmonthstartedforFlorencetopaymealong-promisedvisit。OnhiswayhestoppedforafewdaysinLondonandParis。
ABASSADEDESETATS-UNIS
59RueGalilee，Paris，April1st，1897。
DEARFAMILY:
Igotoverhereto-dayaftertheheaviestweatherIevertackledonthischannel。StephenCranecamewithme。IgavehimalunchonWednesday。AnthonyHope，McCarthy，HaroldFredericandBarriecame。SirEvelynWoodinsteadofcomingwasdetainedatthewarofficeandsentinsteadalanceSergeantonhorsebackwithahugeenvelopemarked"OnHerMajesty'sService，"whichwastobedeliveredintomyhands——
TheentireSavoywasupsetanditwasgenerallysupposedthatwarhadbeendeclaredandthatIwasbeingorderedtothefront——ThewholehotelhungoverusuntilIhadreceiptedforthepackageandthesoldierhadsalutedandclankedaway。I
gaveCranetheletterasasouvenir。IalsosawSeymourHicks'firstnightandrecognized15Americansongsinit。
TheLondonTimesofferedmethepositionofcorrespondentontheGreekfrontier。EveryoneinLondonthoughtitanenormouscomplimentandHaroldFrederic，Ralph，BallardSmithandtherestwereveryenvious。ItoldthemIcouldnotgo，butIwasgladtohavehadthecomplimentpaidme。Barriehasmadeoutascenarioofthe"Soldiers"fordramaticpurposesandhasaskedtheHaymarketmanagementtoconsiderit。So，thatIguessthatitmustbegood——
So，IalsoguessIhadbetterfinishit——IleaveforFlorencetonight。Iamhavingafine，finetimeandIamsogladyouareallwell。
Lotsoflove，DICK。
Ofthemanyhappydayswehavespenttogether，IdonotbelievetherewereanymuchmorehappythanthethreeweeksRichardremainedwithme。ItwashisfirstlongvisittoItalyandfromthedayofhisarrivalhelovedtheoldtownanditspeoplewhogavehimamostfriendlywelcome。HehadcomeatatimewhenFlorencewasatitsbest，itsnarrowquaintstreetsfilledwithsunshineandthrongedwithidlingnativesandthescurryingtouriststhatalwayscamewiththefirstdaysofspring。TheCascineandthepink-walledroadsoftheenvironswereablazewithwildrosesandhere，afterhisratherstrenuousexperienceinCuba，Richardgavehimselfuptolongdaysofhappyidleness。Togetherwetookvoyagesofdiscoverytomanyofthelittlewalledandforgottentownswherethetouristsseldomsetfoot。OnceweevenwanderedsofarasMonteCarlo，wheremybrothertriedveryhardtobreakthebankanddidnotsucceed。ButtheRichardHardingDavisluckdidnotfailhimcompletelyandIrememberIgreatlyenviedhimthehugepileofgoldandnotesthatrepresentedhiswinningsandwhichwedidourverybesttospendbeforeweleftthelandofthePrinceofMonaco。However，havinghadhisfirsttasteofwar，RichardfeltthathemustleavethepeaceandcontentofFlorencetoseehowtheGreeks，withwhomhehadmuchsympathy，werefaringwiththeirenemiestheTurks。Asithappened，thisexpeditionprovedbutashortinterruption，andinlessthanamonthhewasoncemorebackwithhisnew-foundfriendsinFlorence。
April28，1897
OntheWaytoPatrasonaSteamer。
DEARFAMILY:
IthasbeenaweeksinceIwroteyoulast，whenIsentyoutheInaugurationarticle。SincethenIhavebeenhavingthebesttimeIeverhadanyplaceALONE。Ihavehadmorefunwithacrowd，butneverhavebeensohappybymyself。WhatIwouldhavebeenhadItakensomeotherchapwithmeIcannotimagine。ButthepeopleofthispartofGreecehavebeensokindthatIcannotsayIhavebeenalone。Inevermetwithstrangersanywherewhoweresohospitable，soconfidingandpolite。Afterthatslaughter-yardandpestplaceofCuba，whichismuchmoreterribletomenowthanitwaswhenIwasthere，orbeforeIhadseenthatwarcanbeconductedlikeanyotherevilofcivilization，thisoperabouffewarfareislikeaduelbetweentwogentlemenintheBois。Cubaislikeaslave-holderbeatingaslave'sheadinwithawhip。Iamawarcorrespondentonlybyagreatstretchoftheimagination；
Iamapeacecorrespondentreally，andallthefightingIhaveseenwasbycannonatlongrange。Iwasatlongrange，notthecannon。IamdoingthiscampaigninapersonallyconductedsensewithnoregardtothePowersortotheLondonTimes。Ididsendthemanarticlecalled"ThePipingTimesofWar。"IftheydonotuseitIshallillustrateitwiththephotosIhavetakenandsellit，forfivetimesthesumtheywouldgive，totheHarperswhoareeverwithus。AsIoncesaidinanotedwork，"Greece，Mrs。Morris，restoresallyourlostillusions。"ForthelastweekIhavebeenbackinthedaysofConrad，theCorsair，and"Oh，MaidofAthens，ereWePart。"I
havebeenridingoverwind-swepthillsandmountainstoppedwithsnow，andwithsheepandgoatsandwildflowersofeverycolorspreadingforacres，andinalandwhereeverymandressesbychoicelikeagrandoperabrigand，andnotonlyforphotographicpurposes。Ihavebeenonthemoveallthetime，chasingintherearofarmiesthatturnbackassoonasI
approachandapologizefordisappointingmeofabattle，orridingtothesceneofabattlethatnevercomesoff，orhasteningtoabombardmentthatturnsouttobeanattackonanemptyfort。
Iliveonbrownbreadandcheeseandgoat'smilkandsleeplikealoginshepherds'huts。ItissobeautifulthatI
almostgrudgethenight。NoraandMothercouldtakethistripassafelyasaregimentandwouldseethingsoutoffairyland。
Andsuchadventures!LateinlifeIamatlasthavingadventuresandhonorsheapeduponme。Iwaselectedacaptainofabandofbrigandswhohadbeenwatchingamountainpassforamonth，andasitshowednosignsofrunningawayhadtakentodancingonthegreen。Icaughtthematthisinnocentpastimeandtheyallowedmetophotographthemandgivethemwineateightcentsaquartwhichwedrankoutofatinstovepipe。Theydrankaboutfourfeetofstovepipeorthirty-sixcents'worth，thentheydancedandsangformeinacircle，oldmenandboys，thendrilledwiththeircarbines，andIshowedthemmyrevolverandfield-glassesandthemselvesinthefinderofthecamera；andwhenIhadtogotheytookmeontheirshouldersandmarchedmearoundwavingtheirrifles。
Thentheoldmenkissedmeonthecheekandweallembracedandtheywept，andIfeltasbadlyasthoughIwerepartingfromfiftyfriends。TheytoldmyguidethatifIwouldcomebacktheywouldgetfiftymore"asbraveasthey"andIcouldbecaptain。
Icouldnotbegintotellyoualltheamusingthingsthathavehappenedinthisoneweek。Ididnotwanttocomeatall，onlyasternsenseofdutymademe。ForIwantedtowritetheplayinCharley'sgildedhallsandgettoParisandLondon。
ButIcanneverceaserejoicingthatItookthistrip。Anditwillmakethebook，"AYearfromaReporter'sDiary，"ascompleteasitcanbe。ThatwaswhyIcame。NowIhavetheCoronationoftheCzar，theMillennialatHungary，theInaugurationatWashington，theQueen'sJubilee，theWarinCuba，andtheGreco-TurkishWar。Thatisagoodyear'sworkandImeantoloafafterit。YouwilllaughandsaythatthatiswhatIalwayssay，butifyouknewhowIhadtokickmyselfoutofFlorenceandtheCascinetocomehereyouwouldbelieveme。IwantarestandIamcuttingthisveryshort。
Don'tfailtocutanythingDadandMotherdon'tlikeoutoftheInaugurationarticle。Youwillhavemewithyouthiswinteronmylittlebicycleandgoingtodancesandnotpayingboardtoanyone。RememberhowIusedtothreatentogotoGreecewhenthecoffeewasnotgood。Itseemstoofunnynow，forIneverwasinabetterplace，orhadmorefunorsawlessofwarorthesignsofwar。
DICK。
May7，1897。
10EastTwenty-EighthStreet-NIT
Sponitza。
DEARCHAS。
ThisisoneoftheplacesoutofPhroso，butasyouneverreadPhrosoIwillcutallthat——IhatetosayitsosoonagainbutthisisthemostbeautifulcountrytotraveloverIhaveseen——Itisafairytheatricalgrandoperacountrywhereeverybodydressesinpetticoatsandgoldbraidedvestsandcarrycarbinestotendsheepwith——IrodefromSantaMauraseemaptoaspotoppositePrevesawheretheysaidtherewasgoingtobebombarding——TherewasnotofcoursebutIhadIthinkthemostbeautifulrideofmylife。
Iwasabsolutelyhappy——littlelambsbleatedandkidsbuttedeachotherandpeasantsinfurcloakswithoutsleevesandintightslikeprincessatonrocksandplayedpipesandtheskywasblue，themountainscoveredwithsnowandthefieldsandhillsfullofpurplebushesandyellowandblueflowersandsheep——Therewasacablestationofyellowadobe。ItwastheonlybuildinganditlookedacrossatPrevesabutnobodybombarded。Thegeneralgavemecognacandthecableoperatorplayedaguitarformeandthepreyorsangafinebass，thecorporalnottobeoutdonegavemechocolateandthearmystoodaroundinthesunandjoinedintheconversationcorrectingthegeneralandeachotherandtakingofftheirhatstoallthenoblesentimentswetoasted。Itwasjustlikeacomicopera。
AfterawhilewhenIhadfinishedafinehunckofcheeseandhardeggsandbrownbreadItookaphotographoftheGeneralandthecableoperatorandtheofficerwiththebassvoiceandhalfofthearmy——Theotherhalfwasthensenttoescortmetothisplace。ItwalkedandIrodeandthereweremanyhaltsfordrinksandcigarettes。Theyallranafterastraycoltandwerelostforsometimebutwere-mobilizedandadvancedwithgreateffectintothistown。Iwasheretakeninchargebyatleastfiftysailorsandasmanysoldiersandcomicoperabrigandsindrawersandwhitepetticoats，whoconductedmetoahouseonthehillwheretheinnkeeperbroughtmealivechickentoapproveoffordinner。
ThenthemayorofthetownturnedupingoldclothesandBarrisonSisterskirtsandsaidtheGeneralhadtelegraphedaboutmeandthatIwashis——Theinnkeeperweptandsaidhehadseenmefirstandthechorusofsoldiers，sailorsandbrigandsalljoinedin。IkeptoutofitbutIknewtheMayorwouldwinandhedid。Thenwewentouttoaman-of-warthesizeoftheVagabondandweresolemnlyassuredtherewouldbebombardingofPrevesato-morrow——Igotosleepinthathope。WeleavehereatsevencrossingtheriverandrideaftertheGreekswhoareapproachingPrevesafromthelandsidewhilethemen-of-warbombarditfromtheriver。Atleastthatiswhattheysay。IthinkitisthemildestwaronbothsidesIeverheardofandIcertainlymeantobeaTimescorrespondentnexttimeIplayatgoingtowar——AfterbeinginsultedandfrightenedtodeathalloverCuba，thisisthepleasantestpicnicIwaseveron——TheyseriouslyapologizedfornotbombardingwhileIwasthereandIsaidnottomentionit——Withlotsoflove，oldman，andtothefamilyDICK。
FLORENCE
May16，1897。
DEARFAMILY:
HereIamsafeandsoundagainintheoldroomsinFlorence。
Iwasgonetwenty-threedaysandwastravelingnineteenofthem，walking，riding；insailboats，inthecars，andonsteamers。IhavehadmoreexperiencesandadventuresthanI
everhadbeforeinthreemonthsandquiteenoughtolastmeforyears。
AftermyhappyridethroughTurkeyandtheretreatoftheGreekarmyinArta，ofwhichIwroteyoulast，IhavebeeninThessalywhereIsawthetwodays'battleofVelestinosfromthebeginninguptotheend。ItwastheonerealbattleofthewarandtheGreeksfoughtwellfromthefirsttothelast。
IleftAthensonthe29thofAprilwithJohnBass，aHarvardgraduate，andamostcharmingandattractiveyouthwhois，orwas，inchargeoftheJournalmen；StephenCranebeingamongthenumber。Heseemsageniuswithnoresponsibilitiesofanysorttoanyone，andIandBasslefthimatVelestinosaftertravelingwithhimforfourdays。CranewenttoVolo，asdideveryothercorrespondent，leavingBassandmyselfinVelestinos。Asthevillagershadrunaway，weburglarizedthehouseofthemayorandmadeitourhabitationwhilethecourierhuntedforfood。Itwaslike"TheSwissFamilyRobinson，"andwerejoicedoverthediscoveryofsoapandtableclothsandstrayknivesandforks，justasthoughwehadbeencastonadesertisland。BassdidthecookingandIlaidthetableandwashedupandmadethebeds，whichwerefulloffleas。Butwehadbeensleepingonchairsandonthefloorforaweeksowedidnotmindmuch。
Theseconddaywewereawakenedbycannonandyoucanimagineourjoyandexcitement。Wehaditalltoourselvesforeighthours，asittooktheothercorrespondentsthatlongtoarrive。Itwasanartilleryandinfantrybattleandabout20，000menwereengagedonbothsides。TheGreeksfoughtfromlittletrenchesonthehillsbackofthetownandtheTurksadvancedacrossagreatgreenprairie。Itwasverylongrangeandonlytwicedidtheygettowithinaquarterofamileofourtrenches。BassandIwentallovertheGreeklines，foryouwerejustassafeinoneplaceasinanother，whichmeansthatitwasn'tsafeanywhere，sowegaveupconsideringthatandfollowedthefightasbestwecouldfromthefirsttrench，whichwastheonlyonethatgaveanuninterruptedviewoftheTurkishforces。Itwasabrilliantlycleardaybutopenedwithahailstorm，whichenabledtheTurkstocrawluphalfamileinthesuddendarkness。ItalsogavemetheworstattackofsciaticaIeverhad。Fortunately，itdidnotcomeonbadlyuntilIreachedVolo，whenitsuddenlytookholdofmesothatIcouldnotwalk。Thetrencheswerewetwiththerainandwehadnoclothestochangeto，andtwomoreshowerskeptusmoreorlesswetallday。WehadafineviewofeverythingandI
learnedalot。
Wewereunderaheavyfireforthirteenhoursandcertainlyhadsomeverycloseescapes。Attimesthefiringwassofiercethatifyouhadraisedyourarmaboveyourhead，thehandwouldhavebeeninstantlytornoff。Wehadtolieonourstomachswithourchinsinthedirtandnotsomuchasbudge。
ThiswaswhentheTurkishfirehappenedtobedirectedonourtrench。Atsuchtimesalltheothertrencheswouldfiresoastodrawtheattackaway，andwewouldhavetowaituntilitwasover。Theshellssoundedlikethejarringsoundoftelegraphwireswhenonehitsthepoletheyhangfromwithastone；andwhentheshellswereclosetheysoundedlikethenoisemadebytwotrainspassinginoppositedirectionswhenthewindisdrivenbetweenthecars。Thebulletsweremuchworsethantheshellsasyoucouldalwayshearthemcoming，andthebulletsslippedupandpassedyouinasneakingwaywithanoiselikerustlingsilk，orifsomeonehadtornasilkhandkerchiefwithasharppull。Oneshellstruckthreefeetfrommeandknockedmeoverwiththedirtandstonesandfilledmynoseandmouthwithpebbles。Iwentbackanddugitoutofthegroundwhileitwasstillhotandhaveitasasouvenir。IsworeterriblyatthebulletsandBassusedtogrininasicklyway。Itmadeyourhaircreepwhentheycameveryclose。Onemannextmegotashotthroughthebreastwhilehewasramminghiscleanerdownthebarrel，andtherewerethreekilledwithinthelimitsofourfiftyyards。Wecouldnotgetbackbecausetherewasacrossfirethatsweptaplacewehadtopassthrough，justaboutthewaythewindcomesaroundtheCityHallinthetimesofablizzard。WecalleditDeadMan'sCurve，afterthatatFourteenthStreetandUnionSquare，becauseitwassprinkledwithdeadammunition，mulesandsoldiers。Wecamethroughitthefirsttimewithoutknowingwhatweweregettingintoandwehadnodesiretogobackagain。Sowewaiteduntilthesunset。Itooksomeofthefinestphotographsandprobablytheonlyonesevertakenofabattleatsuchcloserange。
Wheneverthemenfired，IwouldshootoffthecameraandI
expectIhavesomeprettygreatpictures。BasstooksomeofmesoifthereisanyquestionastowhetherIwasattheCoronation，therewillbenoneastowhetherIwasatVelestinos。
Ourhousewashitwithtwoshellsandbulletsfelllikethegentlerainfromheavenalloverthecourtyard，sowewouldhavebeennosafertherethanbehindthetrenches。Wesentoffthefirstaccountofthebattlewrittenbyanybodybymidday，andstayedonuntilthenextdayatfourwhentheplacewasevacuatedingoodorderbecause，asusual，theCrownPrincewasrunningaway——fromPharsaliathistime。
TheysayinGreece"Lewes，thepeasant，wontheracefromMarathon，butConstantinetheprince，wontheracefromLarissa。"
IwasallrightuntilIgottoVolowhenmyrightlegrefusedabsolutelytodoitsactandIhadtobecarriedonadonkey。
AGreekthoughtIlookedfunnysittinggroaningonthelittledonkey；whichIdid——Ilookedridiculous。Sohelaughed，andBassandaFrenchjournalistbattedhimoverthefaceandleftmeclingingtothedonkey'sneckandhowlingtothemtocomebackandholdmeup。Buttheypreferredtofight，andapolicemancamealongandarrestedtheunhappyGreekandbeathimoverthehead，justforluck，andmarchedhimofftojail，justforlaughing。
Theytookmetothehospitalshipwhichwasstarting，andI
cametoAthensthatwaywithonehundredandsixteenwounded；
themanonmyrighthadhisanklesgoneandthemanonthelefthadabulletinhisside。TheygroanedallnightandsodidI。Thenwhenthesunrosetheysang，whichwasworse。I
neversawanythingmorebeautifulthanthered-crossnurses，andIguessthatisthemostbeautifulpictureIshalleversee——thosesweet-facedgirlsinblueandwhitebendingoverthedirtyfrightenedlittlepeasantboysandtakingcareoftheirwounds。Imadelovetoallofthemandaskedthreetomarryme。IwasinbedfortwodaysafterIgottoAthensbuthadafinetime，asalltheofficersfromtheSanFrancisco，fromtheadmiraldown，cametoseeme，andtheminister，consulandtherestdidallthatcouldhavebeendone。IamnowallrightandwasbicyclinginthedearoldCascinethismorning。Onthewholeitwasamostsuccessfultrip。
SylvesterScovelandPhillipsofTheWorldarrivedjustasitwasallover，andsoBassandIareabouttheonlytwoAmericanswhowereinit。
ThetrainfromBrindisistoppedatRomeonthewaybackandI
wenttoseethePages。TheytookmeoutandshowedmeRomebymoonlightinonehour。Itwaslikeacinematograph。Theyareherenowandcomingtodinnertonight。Lastnighttheconsulhadallourfriendstodinnertowelcomemeback，andmaybeI
wasnotglad。Ihadbeenlivingoncheeseandbrownbreadandcoldlambfortwoweeks，withnotobacco，andsleepingfivehoursanightonfloorsandsofas。Sometimestheofficersandmenfoughtforfood，andwenevergotanythingwarmtoeatexceptoccasionallytinnedthingswhichwecookedinmykit。
ItwasthemostsatisfactorytripallroundIeverhad。I
havebeentwentyyearstryingtobeinabattleanditwillbetwentyyearsmorebeforeIwillwanttobeinanother。
OntheeighteenthIstartforLondon，stoppingonedayinParistoseetheClarksandEustises。ItisgoingtobebiggerthantheCoronationforcrowds，andMotherneednotworry，Ishallkeepoutofit。TheMinistertoRussiasentmewordthattheCzar'sprimeministerhasgivenhimmyarticleandthattheCzarsaidthankhimverymuch。Sothatisallright。AlsoHayistopresentmetothePrinceattheleveeonthe3tstofMay，andIshallsendhimacopy，too。IamlookingforwardtoLondonwithsuchjoy。TellMothertosendmetheBookbuyerwithherarticleinit。Ihaveonlyreadthereviewsofit，andtheyaresoenthusiasticthatImusthavethewholethingquick。ItwassuchafinethingtodoaboutPoe，andtogivethoseothertwofetishesthecoupdegrace。ItreadssplendidlyandIwantitall。WhatdidDadthinkoftheInaugurationarticle？IsendyouallmydearestloveandwillhavelotstotellyouwhenIgetbackthistime。
Godblessyouall。
DICK。
RichardleftFlorencethelatterpartofMay，andwenttoLondonwherehehadmadearrangementstoreporttheQueen'sJubilee。HebeganhisroundofgayetiesbybeingpresentedatCourt。TheMissGrovesandMissWathertowhomherefersinthefollowingletterweretheclerksatCox'shotel。
LONDON，June2nd，1897。
DEARFAMILY:
IwasabeautifulsightattheLevee。IworeavelvetsuitmadeespeciallyformebutnodearerforthatandsteelbuttonsandabeautifulsteelswordandacourthatwithsilveronthesideandsilkstockingsthatIworeatMoscowandpumpswithgreatbuckles。Iwastoomagnificentforwordsandsoyouwouldhavesaid。IwaitedalongtimeinalonghallcrowdedwithgeneralsandseacaptainsandhighlandersandvolunteersandcavalrymenandjudgesandfinallywasadmittedpastaropeandthenpastanotherropeandthenrushedalongintothethroneroomwhereIsawbeefeatersandlifeguardsmenandchamberlainswithwhitewandsandIgaveonemycardandhereadout"R。H。D。oftheUnitedStatesbytheAmericanAmbassador"andthenIbowedtothePrinceandDukeofYork，ConnaughtandEdinburghandtotheAmericanAmbassadorandthenHenryWhiteandSpencerEddy，thetwoSecretariesandthenavalattacheallshookhandswithmeandIwentaroundinahansominthebrightsunshineinhopesoffindingsomeonewhowouldknowme。ButnoonedidsoIwenttoCox'sHotelandshowedmyselftoMissGrovesandMissWather。I
wentontheTerraceyesterdaywiththeLeitersandatO'Connor'sinvitationbroughtthemtotea。LaboucherewasthereandDillonjustoutofjailanditwasmostinteresting。Iamvery，verybusydoingnothingandhavingafinetime——
DICK。
LONDON，June21，1897。
DEARMOTHER:
WordscannottellatleastnotunlessIamwellpaidforitwhatLondonisliketo-day。Inthefirstplaceitissojammedthatnoonecanmoveanditishungwithdecorationssothatnoonecansee。RoyalcarriagesgetstuckjustasdothehumbledraymanorPickford'sVanandroyaltiesarelodgingincheaphotelswithnothingbutacoupleofGrenadier'sinsentryboxestoshowtheyareanybetterbloodedthantherestofthelodgers。IalsoaddedtotheconfusionbygivingalunchtotheAmbassadorandMissHayinreturnforthepresentation。LadyHenryandMrs。AsquithsatoneithersideofhimandMrs。ClarkhadAsquithandLordBasilBlackwoodtotalkto——TherewasalsoAnthonyHope，thebeautifulJuliaNeilsonandherhusbandFredTerryandLadyEdwardCecilandLordLester——ItwentofffineandtheSavoypeoplesentinanAmericanEagleofice，decoratedwithAmericanflagsanddrippingicytearsfromitsbeak。Itcostmefiveshillingsaheadandlookedasthoughitcostthatinpounds——TonightI
dinewiththeGouldsandthengotoamusicalwhereMelbasings，PadewreskiplaysandthenwalkthestreetsifIcanuntildaybreakasIthinkofmakingthenightbeforetheprocessionthegreaterpartofthestory。Isendyouaplanshowingmyseatwhichcostmetwenty-fivedollars，theadvertisedpricebeing$125。buttherehasbeenaterribleslumpinseats。LovetodearDadandNora。
DICK。
LONDON。
89JermynStreet，June25th，1897。
DEARMOTHER:
TheJubileeturnedouttobetheeasiestspectacletogetatandtogetawayfromthatIeverwitnessed。Experienceinchoosingaplaceandpoliceregulationsmadeitsosimplethatwewentstraighttoourseatsandgotawayagainwithoutasmuchtroubleasitwouldhavetakentohavegonetoamatinee。
Thestagemanagementofthethingalmostimpressedmemorethananythingelse。ForgrandeurandshowitaboutequalledtheprocessionoftheCzarandinmanywaysitwasmoreinterestingbecauseitwasconcernedwithourownpeopleandwithourownpartoftheworld。NexttotheQueen，LordRobertsgotalloftheapplause。HerodealittlewhiteponythathadbeenwithhiminsixcampaignsandhadcarriedhimonhismarchtoCandahar。IthadallthecampaignmedalspresentedtoitbytheWarDepartmentandworetheminalineonitsforehead，andwalkedjustasthoughheknewwhatagreatoccasionitwas。AfterRobertscameinpopularityaCol。MauriceCliffordwiththeRhodesianHorseinsombrero'sandcartridgebeltsandkhakisuits。Hehadlosthisarmandwaseasilyrecognized。WilfredLauriertheFrenchPremierofCanadaandtheLordMayorweretheotherfavourites。ThesceneinfrontofSt。Paul'swasabsolutelymagnificentwiththesootypillarsbehindthegroupsofdiplomats，bishopsandchoirboysinwhite，Universitymeninpinksilkgowns，andsoldiers，beefeaters，gentlemenatarmsandthetwoArchbishops。Thebestmomentwaswhenthecollectedtroops；negroes，Chinamen，EastIndians，WestIndians，Africantroopers，CanadianMountedPolice，Australians，BorneopoliceandEnglishGrenadiersallsangthedoxologytogetherinthebeautifulsunshineandundertheshadowofthatgreatfacadeofblackandwhitemarble。AlsowhentheArchbishopofCanterburywithoutanywarningsuddenlyafterkissingtheQueen'shandthrewuphisarmandcriedoutsothatyoucouldhaveheardhimahundredyardsoff"ThreeCheersforHerMajesty"andthediplomats，andforeignrajahsandbishopsandSalvationArmycaptainswavedtheirhatsandmortarboardsandthesoldiersrantheirbearskinsandhelmetsontheirbayonetsandspunthemaroundintheair。Theweatherwasabsolutelyperfectandtherewerenoaccidents。