TheruinsofCarthage，ofthegreatcityofJerusalem，orofancientRome，arenotatallwonderfultome。TheruinsofNineveh，whicharesoentiretysunkasthatitisdoubtfulwherethecitystood；theruinsofBabylon，orthegreatPersepolis，andmanycapitalcities，whichtimeandthechangeofmonarchieshaveoverthrown，these，Isay，arenotatallwonderful，becausebeingthecapitalsofgreatandflourishingkingdoms，wherethosekingdomswereoverthrown，thecapitalcitiesnecessarilyfellwiththem；butforaprivatetown，aseaport，andatownofcommerce，todecay，asitwere，ofitselfforweneverreadofDunwichbeingplunderedorruinedbyanydisaster，atleast，notoflateyears；
this，Imustconfess，seemsowingtonothingbuttothefateofthings，bywhichweseethattowns，kings，countries，families，andpersons，havealltheirelevation，theirmedium，theirdeclination，andeventheirdestructioninthewomboftime，andthecourseofnature。Itistrue，thistownismanifestlydecayedbytheinvasionofthewaters，andasothertownsseemsufferersbythesea，orthetidewithdrawingfromtheirports，suchasOrford，justnownamed，WinchelseainKent，andthelike，sothistownis，asitwere，eatenupbythesea，asabove；andthestillencroachingoceanseemstothreatenitwithafatalimmersioninafewyearsmore。
YetDunwich，howeverruined，retainssomeshareoftrade，asparticularlyfortheshippingofbutter，cheese，andcorn，whichissogreatabusinessinthiscounty，thatitemploysagreatmanypeopleandshipsalso；andthisportliesrightagainsttheparticularpartofthecountyforbutter，asFramlingham，Halstead，etc。AlsoaverygreatquantityofcornisboughtuphereaboutfortheLondonmarket；forIshallstilltouchthatpointhowallthecountiesinEnglandcontributesomethingtowardsthesubsistenceofthegreatcityofLondon，ofwhichthebutterhereisaveryconsiderablearticle；asalsocoarsecheese，whichImentionedbefore，usedchieflyfortheking'sships。
Hereaboutstheybegintotalkofherringsandthefishery；andwefindintheancientrecordsthatthistown，whichwasthenequaltoalargecity，paid，amongothertributetothegovernment，fiftythousandofherrings。Herealso，andatSwole，orSouthole，thenextseaport，theycurespratsinthesamemannerastheydoherringsatYarmouth；thatistosay，speakingintheirownlanguage，theymakeredsprats；ortospeakgoodEnglish，theymakespratsred。
Itisremarkablethatthistownisnowsomuchwashedawaybythesea，thatwhatlittletradetheyhaveiscarriedonbyWalderswick，alittletownnearSwole，thevesselscominginthere，becausetheruinsofDunwichmaketheshorethereunsafeanduneasytotheboats；fromwhencethenortherncoastingseamenarudeverseoftheirownusing，andIsupposeoftheirownmaking，asfollows，"SwoulandDunwich，andWalderswick，Allgoinatonelousiecreek。"
This"lousiecreek，"inshort，isalittleriveratSwoul，whichourlatefamousatlas-makercallsagoodharbourforships，andrendezvousoftheroyalnavy；butthatby-the-bye；theauthor，itseems，knewnobetter。
FromDunwichwecametoSouthwold，thetownabove-named:thisisasmallporttownuponthecoast，atthemouthofalittlerivercalledtheBlith。Ifoundnobusinessthepeopleherewereemployedinbutthefishery，asabove，forherringsandsprats，whichtheycurebythehelpofsmoke，astheydoatYarmouth。
Thereisbutonechurchinthistown，butitisaverylargeoneandwellbuilt，asmostofthechurchesinthiscountyare，andofimpenetrableflint；indeed，thereisnooccasionforitsbeingsolarge，forstayingthereoneSabbathday，Iwassurprisedtoseeanextraordinarylargechurch，capableofreceivingfiveorsixthousandpeople，andbuttwenty-seveninitbesidestheparsonandtheclerk；butatthesametimethemeeting-houseoftheDissenterswasfulltotheverydoors，having，asIguessed，fromsixtoeighthundredpeopleinit。
Thistownismadefamousforaverygreatengagementatsea，intheyear1672，betweentheEnglishandDutchfleets，inthebayoppositetothetown，inwhich，nottobepartialtoourselves，theEnglishfleetwasworsted；andthebraveMontague，EarlofSandwich，AdmiralundertheDukeofYork，losthislife。TheshipROYALPRINCE，carryingonehundredguns，inwhichhewas，andwhichwasunderhim，commandedbySirEdwardSpragg，wasburnt，andseveralothershipslost，andaboutsixhundredseamen；partofthosekilledinthefightwere，asIwastold，broughtonshorehereandburiedinthechurchyardofthistown，asothersalsowereatIpswich。
Atthistowninparticular，andsoatallthetownsonthiscoast，fromOrfordnesstoYarmouth，istheordinaryplacewhereoursummerfriendstheswallowsfirstlandwhentheycometovisitus；andheretheymaybesaidtoembarkfortheirreturn，whentheygobackintowarmerclimates；andasIthinkthefollowingremark，thoughofsotriflingacircumstance，maybebothinstructingaswellasdiverting，itmaybeveryproperinthisplace。Thecaseisthis；
Iwassomeyearsbeforeatthisplace，atthelatterendoftheyear，viz。，aboutthebeginningofOctober，andlodginginahousethatlookedintothechurchyard，Iobservedintheevening，anunusualmultitudeofbirdssittingontheleadsofthechurch。
Curiosityledmetogonearertoseewhattheywere，andIfoundtheywereallswallows；thattherewassuchaninfinitenumberthattheycoveredthewholeroofofthechurch，andofseveralhousesnear，andperhapsmightofmorehouseswhichIdidnotsee。ThisledmetoinquireofagravegentlemanwhomIsawnearme，whatthemeaningwasofsuchaprodigiousmultitudeofswallowssittingthere。"Oh，sir，"sayshe，turningtowardsthesea，"youmayseethereason；thewindisoffsea。"Ididnotseemfullyinformedbythatexpression，sohegoeson，"Iperceive，sir，"sayshe，"youareastrangertoit；youmustthenunderstandfirst，thatthisistheseasonoftheyearwhentheswallows，theirfoodherefailing，begintoleaveus，andreturntothecountry，whereveritbe，fromwhenceIsupposetheycame；andthisbeingthenearesttothecoastofHolland，theycomeheretoembark"thishesaidsmilingalittle；"andnow，sir，"sayshe，"theweatherbeingtoocalmorthewindcontrary，theyarewaitingforagale，fortheyareallwind-bound。"
Thiswasmoreevidenttome，wheninthemorningIfoundthewindhadcomeabouttothenorth-westinthenight，andtherewasnotoneswallowtobeseenofnearamillion，whichIbelievewastherethenightbefore。
HowthosecreaturesknowthatthispartoftheIslandofGreatBritainisthewaytotheirhome，orthewaythattheyaretogo；
thatthisverypointisthenearestcutover，oreventhatthenearestcutisbestforthem，thatwemustleavetothenaturaliststodetermine，whoinsistuponitthatbrutescannotthink。
Certainitisthattheswallowsneithercomehitherforwarmweathernorretirefromcold；thethingisofquiteanothernature。
They，liketheshoalsoffishinthesea，pursuetheirprey；theyareavoraciouscreature，theyfeedflying；theirfoodisfoundintheair，viz。，theinsects，ofwhichinoursummerevenings，indampandmoistplaces，theairisfull。Theycomehitherinthesummerbecauseourairisfulleroffogsanddampsthaninothercountries，andforthatreasonfeedsgreatquantitiesofinsects。
Iftheairbehotanddrythegnatsdieofthemselves，andeventheswallowswillbefoundfamishedforwant，andfalldowndeadoutoftheair，theirfoodbeingtakenfromthem。Inlikemanner，whencoldweathercomesintheinsectsalldie，andthenofnecessitytheswallowsquitus，andfollowtheirfoodwherevertheygo。ThistheydointhemannerIhavementionedabove，forsometimestheyareseentogooffinvastflightslikeacloud。Andsometimesagain，whenthewindgrowsfair，theygoawayafewandafewastheycome，notstayingatalluponthecoast。
Note-Thispassingandre-passingoftheswallowsisobservednowheresomuch，thatIhaveheardof，orinbutfewotherplaces，exceptonthiseasterncoast，namely，fromaboveHarwichtotheeastpointofNorfolk，calledWintertonNess，North，whichisallrightagainstHolland。Weknownothingofthemanyfarthernorth，thepassageoftheseabeing，asIsuppose，toobroadfromFlamboroughHeadandtheshoreofHoldernessinYorkshire，etc。
IfindverylittleremarkableonthissideofSuffolk，butwhatisonthesea-shoreasabove。TheinlandcountryisthatwhichtheyproperlycallHighSuffolk，andisfullofrichfeedinggroundsandlargefarms，mostlyemployedindairiesformakingtheSuffolkbutterandcheese，ofwhichIhavespokenalready。Amongtheserichgroundsstandsomemarkettowns，thoughnotofveryconsiderablenote；suchasFramlingham，wherewasoncearoyalcastle，towhichQueenMaryretiredwhentheNorthumberlandfaction，inbehalfoftheLadyJane，endeavouredtosupplanther。
AnditwasthispartofSuffolkwheretheGospellers，astheywerethencalled，preferredtheirloyaltytotheirreligion，andcomplimentedthePopishlineatexpenseoftheirshareoftheReformation。Buttheypaiddearforit，andtheirsuccessorshavelearnedbetterpoliticssince。
Inthesepartsarealsoseveralgoodmarkettowns，someinthiscountyandsomeintheother，asBeccles，Bungay，Harlston，etc。，allontheedgeoftheRiverWaveney，whichpartsherethecountiesofSuffolkandNorfolk。Andhereinabye-place，andoutofcommonremark，liestheancienttownofHoxon，famousforbeingtheplacewhereSt。Edmundwasmartyred，forwhomsomanycellsandshrineshavebeensetupandmonasteriesbuilt，andinhonourofwhomthefamousmonasteryofSt。Edmundsbury，abovementioned，wasfounded，whichmostpeopleerroneouslythinkwastheplacewherethesaidmurderwascommitted。
Besidesthetownsmentionedabove，thereareHalesworth，Saxmundham，Debenham，Aye，orEye，allstandinginthiseasternsideofSuffolk，inwhich，asIhavesaid，thewholecountryisemployedindairiesorinfeedingofcattle。
ThispartofEnglandisalsoremarkableforbeingthefirstwherethefeedingandfatteningofcattle，bothsheepaswellasblackcattle，withturnips，wasfirstpractisedinEngland，whichismadeaverygreatpartoftheimprovementoftheirlandstothisday，andfromwhencethepracticeisspreadovermostoftheeastandsouthpartsofEnglandtothegreatenrichingofthefarmersandincreaseoffatcattle。Andthoughsomehaveobjectedagainstthegoodnessofthefleshthusfedwithturnips，andhavefancieditwouldtasteoftheroot，yetuponexperienceitisfoundthatatmarketthereisnodifference，norcantheythatbuysingleoutonejointofmuttonfromanotherbythetaste。Sothatthecomplaintwhichournicepalatesatfirstmadebeginstoceaseofitself，andaverygreatquantityofbeefandmuttonalsoisbroughteveryyearandeveryweektoLondonfromthissideofEngland，andmuchmorethanwasformerlyknowntobefedthere。
Icannotomit，howeverlittleitmayseem，thatthiscountyofSuffolkisparticularlyfamousforfurnishingtheCityofLondonandallthecountiesroundwithturkeys，andthatitisthoughttherearemoreturkeysbredinthiscountyandthepartofNorfolkthatadjoinstoitthaninalltherestofEngland，especiallyforsale，thoughthismaybereckoned，asIsayabove，butatriflingthingtotakenoticeofintheseremarks；yet，asIhavehinted，thatIshallobservehowLondonisingeneralsuppliedwithallitsprovisionsfromthewholebodyofthenation，andhoweverypartoftheislandisengagedinsomedegreeorotherofthatsupply。OnthisaccountIcouldnotomitit，norwillitbefoundsoinconsiderableanarticleassomemayimagine，ifthisbetrue，whichIreceivedanaccountoffromapersonlivingontheplace，viz。，thattheyhavecountedthreehundreddrovesofturkeysfortheydrivethemallindrovesonfootpassinoneseasonoverStratfordBridgeontheRiverStour，whichpartsSuffolkfromEssex，aboutsixmilesfromColchester，ontheroadfromIpswichtoLondon。Thesedroves，astheysay，generallycontainfromthreehundredtoathousandeachdrove；sothatonemaysupposethemtocontainfivehundredonewithanother，whichisonehundredandfiftythousandinall；andyetthisisoneoftheleastpassages，thenumberswhichtravelbyNewmarketHeathandtheopencountryandtheforest，andalsothenumbersthatcomebySudburyandClarebeingmanymore。
ForthefurthersuppliesofthemarketsofLondonwithpoultry，ofwhichthesecountriesparticularlyabound，theyhavewithinthesefewyearsfounditpracticabletomakethegeesetravelonfoottoo，aswellastheturkeys，andaprodigiousnumberarebroughtuptoLondonindrovesfromthefarthestpartsofNorfolk；evenfromthefencountryaboutLynn，Downham，Wisbech，andtheWashes；asalsofromalltheeastsideofNorfolkandSuffolk，ofwhomitisveryfrequentnowtomeetdroveswithathousand，sometimestwothousandinadrove。TheybegintodrivethemgenerallyinAugust，bywhichtimetheharvestisalmostover，andthegeesemayfeedinthestubblesastheygo。ThustheyholdontotheendofOctober，whentheroadsbegintobetoostiffanddeepfortheirbroadfeetandshortlegstomarchin。
Besidesthesemethodsofdrivingthesecreaturesonfoot，theyhaveoflatealsoinventedanewmethodofcarriage，beingcartsformedonpurpose，withfourstoriesorstagestoputthecreaturesinoneaboveanother，bywhichinventiononecartwillcarryaverygreatnumber；andforthesmoothergoingtheydrivewithtwohorsesabreast，likeacoach，soquarteringtheroadfortheeaseofthegentrythatthusride。Changinghorses，theytravelnightandday，sothattheybringthefowlsseventy，eighty，or，onehundredmilesintwodaysandonenight。Thehorsesinthisnew-fashionedvoituregotwoabreast，asabove，butnoperchbelow，asinacoach，buttheyarefastenedtogetherbyapieceofwoodlyingcrosswiseupontheirnecks，bywhichtheyarekeptevenandtogether，andthedriversitsonthetopofthecartlikeasinthepubliccarriagesforthearmy，etc。
Inthismannertheyhurryawaythecreaturesalive，andinfinitenumbersarethuscarriedtoLondoneveryyear。Thismethodisalsoparticularforthecarryingyoungturkeysorturkeypoultsintheirseason，whicharevaluable，andyieldagoodpriceatmarket；asalsoforlivechickensinthedearseasons，ofallwhichaverygreatnumberarebroughtinthismannertoLondon，andmoreprodigiouslyoutofthiscountrythananyotherpartofEngland，whichisthereasonofmyspeakingofithere。
Inthispart，whichwecallHighSuffolk，therearenotsomanyfamiliesofgentryornobilityplacedasintheothersideofthecountry。Butitisobservedthatthoughtheirseatsarenotsofrequenthere，theirestatesare；andthepleasureofWestSuffolkismuchofitsupportedbythewealthofHighSuffolk，fortherichnessofthelandsandapplicationofthepeopletoallkindsofimprovementisscarcecredible；alsothefarmersaresoveryconsiderableandtheirfarmsanddairiessolargethatitisveryfrequentforafarmertohave1，000poundsstockuponhisfarmincowsonly。
NORFOLK。
FromHighSuffolkIpassedtheWaveneyintoNorfolk，nearScholeInn。InmypassageIsawatRedgravetheseatofthefamilyamostexquisitemonumentofSirJohnHolt，Knight，lateLordChiefJusticeoftheKing'sBenchseveralyears，andoneofthemosteminentlawyersofhistime。OneoftheheirsofthefamilyisnowbuildingafineseataboutamileonthesouthsideofIpswich，neartheroad。
Theepitaphorinscriptiononthismonumentisasfollows:-
M。S。
D。JohannisHolt，EquitisAur。
TotiusAnglioeinBancoRegisper21AnnoscontinuosCapitalisJustitiariiGulielmoRegiAnnoequrReginaeConsiliariiperpetui:
LibertatisacLegumAnglicarumAssertoris，Vindicis，Custodis，VigilisAcris&intrepidi，RolandusFraterUncius&HoeresOptimedeseMeritoposuit，DieMartisVto。1709。SublatusestexOculisnostrisNatus30Decembris，Anno1642。
WhenwecomeintoNorfolk，weseeafaceofdiligencespreadoverthewholecountry；thevastmanufacturescarriedoninchiefbytheNorwichweaversemploysallthecountryroundinspinningyarnforthem；besidesmanythousandpacksofyarnwhichtheyreceivefromothercountries，evenfromasfarasYorkshireandWestmoreland，ofwhichIshallspeakinitsplace。
ThissideofNorfolkisverypopulous，andthrongedwithgreatandspaciousmarket-towns，moreandlargerthananyotherpartofEnglandsofarfromLondon，exceptDevonshire，andtheWestRidingofYorkshire；forexample，betweenthefrontiersofSuffolkandthecityofNorwichonthisside，whichisnotabove22milesinbreadth，arethefollowingmarket-towns，viz。:-
Thetford，Hingham，Harleston，Diss，WestDereham，E。Dereham，Harling，Attleborough，Watton，Bucknam，Windham，Loddon，etc。
Mostofthesetownsareverypopulousandlarge；butthatwhichismostremarkableis，thatthewholecountryroundthemissointerspersedwithvillages，andthosevillagessolarge，andsofullofpeople，thattheyareequaltomarket-townsinothercountries；inaword，theyrenderthiseasternpartofNorfolkexceedingfullofinhabitants。
AneminentweaverofNorwichgavemeaschemeoftheirtradeonthisoccasion，bywhich，calculatingfromthenumberofloomsatthattimeemployedinthecityofNorwichonly，besidesthoseemployedinothertownsinthesamecounty，hemadeitappearveryplain，thattherewere120，000peopleemployedinthewoollenandsilkandwoolmanufacturesofthatcityonly；notthatthepeoplealllivedinthecity，thoughNorwichisaverylargeandpopulouscitytoo:but，Isay，theywereemployedforspinningtheyarnusedforsuchgoodsaswereallmadeinthatcity。Thisaccountiscuriousenough，andveryexact，butitistoolongforthecompassofthiswork。
ThisshowsthewonderfulextentoftheNorwichmanufacture，orstuff-weavingtrade，bywhichsomanythousandsoffamiliesaremaintained。Theirtrade，indeed，feltaverysensibledecay，andthecriesofthepoorbegantobeveryloud，whenthewearingofpaintedcalicoeswasgrowntosuchaheightinEngland，aswasseenabouttwoorthreeyearsago；butanActofParliamenthavingbeenobtained，thoughnotwithoutgreatstruggle，intheyears1720and1721，forprohibitingtheuseandwearingofcalicoes，thestufftraderevivedincredibly；andasIpassedthispartofthecountryintheyear1723，themanufacturersassuredmethattherewasnot，inalltheeasternandmiddlepartofNorfolk，anyhandunemployed，iftheywouldwork；andthattheverychildren，afterfourorfiveyearsofage，couldeveryoneearntheirownbread。ButIreturntospeakofthevillagesandtownsintherestofthecounty；I
shallcometothecityofNorwichbyitself。
Thisthrongofvillagescontinuesthroughalltheeastpartofthecountry，whichisofthegreatestextent，andwherethemanufactureischieflycarriedon。Ifanypartofitbewasteandthinofinhabitants，itisthewestpart，drawingalinefromaboutBrand，orBrandon，south，toWalsinghan，north。Thispartofthecountryindeedisfullofopenplains，andsomewhatsandyandbarren，andfeedsgreatflocksofgoodsheep；butputitalltogether，thecountyofNorfolkhasthemostpeopleintheleasttractoflandofanycountyinEngland，exceptaboutLondon，andExon，andtheWestRidingofYorkshire，asabove。
Addtothis，thatthereisnosinglecountyinEngland，exceptasabove，thatcanboastofthreetownssopopulous，sorich，andsofamousfortradeandnavigation，asinthiscounty。Bythesethreetowns，ImeanthecityofNorwich，thetownsofYarmouthandLynn。
Besidesthat，ithasseveralotherseaportsofverygoodtrade，asWisbech，Wells，Burnham，Clye，etc。
Norwichisthecapitalofallthecounty，andthecentreofallthetradeandmanufactureswhichIhavejustmentioned；anancient，large，rich，andpopulouscity。IfastrangerwasonlytoridethroughorviewthecityofNorwichforaday，hewouldhavemuchmorereasontothinktherewasatownwithoutinhabitants，thanthereisreallytosaysoofIpswich；butonthecontraryifhewastoviewthecity，eitheronaSabbath-day，oronanypublicoccasion，hewouldwonderwhereallthepeoplecoulddwell，themultitudeissogreat。Butthecaseisthis:theinhabitantsbeingallbusyattheirmanufactures，dwellintheirgarretsattheirlooms，andintheircombingshopssotheycallthem，twisting-
mills，andotherwork-houses，almostalltheworkstheyareemployedinbeingdonewithindoors。Thereareinthiscitythirty-twoparishesbesidesthecathedral，andagreatmanymeeting-housesofDissentersofalldenominations。Thepublicedificesarechieflythecastle，ancientanddecayed，andnowformanyyearspastmadeuseofforagaol。TheDukeofNorfolk'shousewasformerlykeptwell，andthegardenspreservedforthepleasureanddiversionofthecitizens，butsincefeelingtoosensiblythesinkingcircumstancesofthatoncegloriousfamily，whowerethefirstpeersandhereditaryearl-marshalsofEngland。
Thewallsofthiscityarereckonedthreemilesincircumference，takinginmoregroundthantheCityofLondon，butmuchofthatgroundlyingopeninpasture-fieldsandgardens；nordoesitseemtobe，likesomeancientplaces，adecayed，decliningtown，andthatthewallsmarkoutitsancientdimensions；forwedonotseeroomtosupposethatitwaseverlargerormorepopulousthanitisnow。Butthewallsseemtobeplacedasiftheyexpectedthatthecitywouldintimeincreasesufficientlytofillthemupwithbuildings。
Thecathedralofthiscityisafinefabric，andthespiresteepleveryhighandbeautiful。Itisnotancient，thebishop'sseehavingbeenfirstatThetford，fromwhenceitwasnottranslatedhithertillthetwelfthcentury。Yetthechurchhassomanyantiquitiesinit，thatourlategreatscholarandphysician，SirThomasBrown，thoughtitworthhiswhiletowriteawholebooktocollectthemonumentsandinscriptionsinthischurch，towhichI
referthereader。
TheRiverYarerunsthroughthiscity，andisnavigablethusfarwithoutthehelpofanyartthatistosay，withoutlocksorstops，andbeingincreasedbyotherwaters，passesafterwardsthroughalongtractoftherichestmeadows，andthelargest，takethemalltogether，thatareanywhereinEngland，lyingforthirtymilesinlength，fromthiscitytoYarmouth，includingthereturnofthesaidmeadowsonthebankoftheWaveneysouth，andontheRiverThyrnnorth。
Hereisonethingindeedstrangeinitself，andmoreso，inthathistoryseemstobequiteignorantoftheoccasionofit。TheRiverWaveneyisaconsiderableriver，andofadeepandfullchannel，navigableforlargebargesashighasBeccles；itrunsforacourseofaboutfiftymiles，betweenthetwocountiesofSuffolkandNorfolk，asaboundarytoboth；andpushingon，thoughwithagentlestream，towardsthesea，noonewoulddoubt，but，thatwhentheyseetherivergrowingbroaderanddeeper，andgoingdirectlytowardsthesea，eventotheedgeofthebeach-thatistosay，withinamileofthemainocean-nostranger，Isay，butwouldexpecttoseeitsentranceintotheseaatthatplace，andanobleharbourforshipsatthemouthofit；whenonasudden，thelandrisinghighbytheseaside，crossestheheadoftheriver，likeadam，checksthewholecourseofit，anditreturns，bendingitscoursewest，fortwomiles，orthereabouts；andthenturningnorth，throughanotherlongcourseofmeadowsjoiningtothosejustnowmentionedseeksouttheRiverYare，thatitmayjoinitswaterwithhers，andfindtheirwaytotheseatogetherSomeofourhistorianstellalong，fabulousstoryofthisriverbeingonceopen，andafamousharbourforshipsbelongingtoatownofLowestoftadjoining；butthatthetownofYarmouthenvyingtheprosperityofthesaidtownofLowestoft，madewaruponthem；andthataftermanybloodybattles，aswellbyseaasbyland，theycameatlasttoadecisiveactionatseawiththeirrespectivefleets，andthevictoryfelltotheYarmouthmen，theLowestoftfleetbeingoverthrownandutterlydestroyed；andthatuponthisvictory，theYarmouthmeneitheractuallydidstopupthemouthofthesaidriver，orobligedthevanquishedLowestoftmentodoitthemselves，andboundthemnevertoattempttoopenitagain。
Ibelievemyshareofthisstory，andIrecommendnomoreofittothereader；adding，thatIseenoauthorityfortherelation，neitherdotherelatorsagreeeitherinthetimeofit，orintheparticularsofthefact；thatistosay，inwhosereign，orunderwhatgovernmentallthishappened；inwhatyear，andthelike；soI
satisfymyselfwithtranscribingthematteroffact，andthenleaveitasIfindit。
Inthisvasttractofmeadowsarefedaprodigiousnumberofblackcattlewhicharesaidtobefedupforthefattestbeef，thoughnotthelargestinEngland；andthequantityissogreat，asthattheynotonlysupplythecityofNorwich，thetownofYarmouth，andcountyadjacent，butsendgreatquantitiesofthemweeklyinallthewinterseasontoLondon。
Andthisinparticularisworthyremark，thatthegrossofalltheScotscattlewhichcomeyearlyintoEnglandarebroughthither，beingbroughttoasmallvillagelyingnorthofthecityofNorwich，calledSt。Faith's，wheretheNorfolkgraziersgoandbuythem。
TheseScotsrunts，sotheycallthem，comingoutofthecoldandbarrenmountainsoftheHighlandsinScotland，feedsoeagerlyontherichpastureinthesemarshes，thattheythriveinanunusualmanner，andgrowmonstrouslyfat；andthebeefissodeliciousfortaste，thattheinhabitantspreferthemtotheEnglishcattle，whicharemuchlargerandfairertolookat；andtheymayverywelldoso。Somehavetoldme，andIbelievewithgoodjudgment，thatthereareabovefortythousandoftheseScotscattlefedinthiscountyeveryyear，andmostoftheminthesaidmarshesbetweenNorwich，Beccles，andYarmouth。
Yarmouthisanancienttown，mucholderthanNorwich；andatpresent，thoughnotstandingonsomuchground，yetbetterbuilt；
muchmorecomplete；fornumberofinhabitants，notmuchinferior；
andforwealth，trade，andadvantageofitssituation，infinitelysuperiortoNorwich。
ItisplacedonapeninsulabetweentheRiverYareandthesea；thetwolastlyingparalleltooneanother，andthetowninthemiddle。
Theriverliesonthewestsideofthetown，andbeinggrownverylargeanddeep，byaconfluxofalltheriversonthissidethecounty，formsthehaven；andthetownfacingtothewestalso，andopentotheriver，makesthefinestquayinEngland，ifnotinEurope，notinferioreventothatofMarseillesitself。
Theshipsrideheresoclose，and，asitwere，keepinguponeanother，withtheirheadfastsonshore，thatforhalfamiletogethertheygoacrossthestreamwiththeirbowspritsovertheland，theirbows，orheadstouchingtheverywharf；sothatonemaywalkfromshiptoshipasonafloatingbridge，allalongbytheshore-side。Thequayreachingfromthedrawbridgealmosttothesouthgate，issospaciousandwide，thatinsomeplacesitisnearonehundredyardsfromthehousestothewharf。Inthispleasantandagreeablerangeofhousesaresomeverymagnificentbuildings，andamongtherest，theCustomHouseandTownHall，andsomemerchant'shouses，whichlooklikelittlepalacesratherthanthedwelling-housesofprivatemen。
Thegreatestdefectofthisbeautifultownseemstobethat，thoughitisveryrichandincreasinginwealthandtrade，andconsequentlyinpeople，thereisnotroomtoenlargethetownbybuilding，whichwouldbecertainlydonemuchmorethanitis，butthattheriveronthelandsideprescribesthem，exceptatthenorthendwithoutthegate；andeventherethelandisnotveryagreeable。Buthadtheyhadalargerspacewithinthegatestherewouldbeforenowhavebeenmanyspaciousstreetsofnoblefinebuildingserected，asweseeisdoneinsomeotherthrivingtownsinEngland，asatLiverpool，Manchester，Bristol，Frome，etc。
Thequayandtheharbourofthistownduringthefishingfair，astheycallit，whichiseveryMichaelmas，oneseesthelandcoveredwithpeople，andtheriverwithbarquesandboats，busydayandnightlandingandcarryingoftheherrings，whichtheycatchhereinsuchprodigiousquantities，thatitisincredible。Ihappenedtobethereduringtheirfishingfair，whenItoldinonetide110
barquesandfishingvesselscominguptheriverallladenwithherrings，andalltakenthenightbefore；andthiswasbesideswhatwasbroughtonshoreontheDeanthatistheseasideofthetown
byopenboats，whichtheycallcobles，andwhichoftenbringintwoorthreelastoffishatatime。Thebarquesoftenbringintenlastapiece。
ThisfishingfairbeginsonMichaelmasDay，andlastsallthemonthofOctober，bywhichtimetheherringsdrawofftosea，shoottheirspawn，andarenomorefitforthemerchant'sbusiness-atleast，notthosethataretakenthereabouts。
Thequantityofherringsthatarecaughtinthisseasonarediverselyaccountedfor。SomehavesaidthatthetownsofYarmouthandLowestoftonlyhavetaken40，000lastinaseason。Iwillnotventuretoconfirmthatreport；butthisIhaveheardthemerchantsthemselvessay，viz。，thattheyhavecured-thatistosay，hangedanddriedinthesmoke-40，000barrelsofmerchantableredherringsinoneseason，whichisinitselfthoughfarshortoftheotheryetaveryconsiderablearticle；anditistobeaddedthatthisisbesidesalltheherringsconsumedinthecountrytownsofboththosepopulouscountiesforthirtymilesfromthesea，whitherverygreatquantitiesarecarriedeverytideduringthewholeseason。
Butthisisonlyonebranchofthegreattradecarriedoninthistown。Anotherpartofthiscommerceisintheexportingtheseherringsaftertheyarecured；andforthistheirmerchantshaveagreattradetoGenoa，Leghorn，Naples，Messina，andVenice；asalsotoSpainandPortugal，alsoexportingwiththeirherringverygreatquantitiesofworstedstuffs，andstuffsmadeofsilkandworsted，camblets，etc。，themanufacturesoftheneighbouringcityofNorwichandoftheplacesadjacent。
Besidesthis，theycarryonaveryconsiderabletradewithHolland，whoseoppositeneighbourstheyare；andavastquantityofwoollenmanufacturestheyexporttotheDutcheveryyear。AlsotheyhaveafishingtradetotheNorthSeasforwhitefish，whichfromtheplacearecalledtheNorthSeacod。
TheyhavealsoaconsiderabletradetoNorwayandtotheBaltic，fromwhencetheybringbackdealsandfirtimber，oakenplank，balks，spars，oars，pitch，tar，hemp，flax，sprucecanvas，andsail-cloth，withallmannerofnavalstores，whichtheygenerallyhaveaconsumptionforintheirownport，wheretheybuildaverygreatnumberofshipseveryyear，besidesrefittingandrepairingtheold。
AddtothisthecoaltradebetweenNewcastleandtheriverofThames，inwhichtheyaresoimprovedoflateyearsthattheyhavenowagreatershareofitthananyothertowninEngland，andhavequiteworkedtheIpswichmenoutofitwhohadformerlythechiefshareofthecollieryintheirhands。
Forthecarryingonallthesetradestheymusthaveaverygreatnumberofships，eitheroftheirownoremployedbythem:anditmayinsomemeasurebejudgedofbythisthatintheyear1697，I
hadanaccountfromthetownregisterthattherewasthen1，123
sailofshipsusingtheseaandbelongedtothetown，besidessuchshipsasthemerchantsofYarmouthmightbeconcernedin，andbepartownersof，belongingtoanyotherports。
ToallthisImustadd，withoutcomplimenttothetownortothepeople，thatthemerchants，andeventhegeneralityoftradersofYarmouth，haveaverygoodreputationintradeaswellabroadasathomeformenoffairandhonourabledealing，punctualandjustintheirperformingtheirengagementsandindischargingcommissions；
andtheirseamen，aswellmastersasmariners，arejustlyesteemedamongtheablestandmostexpertnavigatorsinEngland。
Thistown，howeverpopulousandlarge，wasevercontainedinoneparish，andhadbutonechurch；butwithinthesetwoyearstheyhavebuiltanotherveryfinechurchnearthesouthendofthetown。
TheoldchurchisdedicatedtoSt。Nicholas，andwasbuiltbythatfamousBishopofNorwich，WilliamHerbert，whoflourishedinthereignofWilliamII。，andHenryI。，WilliamofMalmesbury，callshimVIRPECUNIOSUS；hemighthavecalledhimVIRPECUNIOSISSIMUS，consideringthetimeshelivedin，andtheworksofcharityandmunificencewhichhehasleftaswitnessesofhisimmenseriches；
forhebuilttheCathedralChurch，thePrioryforsixtymonks，theBishop'sPalace，andtheparishchurchofSt。Leonard，allinNorwich；thisgreatchurchatYarmouth，theChurchofSt。MargaretatLynn，andofSt。MaryatElmham。HeremovedtheepiscopalseefromThetfordtoNorwich，andinstitutedtheCluniackMonksatThetford，andgavethemorbuiltthemahouse。Thisoldchurchisverylarge，andhasahighspire，whichisausefulsea-mark。
Hereisoneofthefinestmarket-placesandthebestservedwithprovisionsinEngland，Londonexcepted；andtheinhabitantsaresomultipliedinafewyearsthattheyseemtowantroomintheirtownratherthanpeopletofillit，asIhaveobservedabove。
Thestreetsareallexactlystraightfromnorthtosouth，withlanesoralleys，whichtheycallrows，crossingtheminstraightlinesalsofromeasttowest，sothatitisthemostregularbuilttowninEngland，andseemstohavebeenbuiltallatonce；orthatthedimensionsofthehousesandextentofthestreetswerelaidoutbyconsent。
Theyhaveparticularprivilegesinthistownandajurisdictionbywhichtheycantry，condemn，andexecuteinespecialcaseswithoutwaitingforawarrantfromabove；andthistheyexertedonceverysmartlyinexecutingacaptainofoneoftheking'sshipsofwarinthereignofKingCharlesII。foramurdercommittedinthestreet，thecircumstanceofwhichdidindeedcallforjustice；butsomethoughttheywouldnothaveventuredtoexerttheirpowersastheydid。However，IneverheardthattheGovernmentresenteditorblamedthemforit。
Itisalsoaverywell-governedtown，andIhavenowhereinEnglandobservedtheSabbathdaysoexactlykept，orthebreachsocontinuallypunished，asinthisplace，whichInametotheirhonour。
Amongalltheseregularitiesitisnowonderifwedonotfindabundanceofrevelling，orthatthereislittleencouragementtoassemblies，plays，andgamingmeetingsatYarmouthasinsomeotherplaces；andyetIdonotseethattheladiesherecomebehindanyoftheneighbouringcounties，eitherinbeauty，breeding，orbehaviour；towhichmaybeaddedtoo，notatalltotheirdisadvantage，thattheygenerallygobeyondtheminfortunes。
FromYarmouthIresolvedtopursuemyfirstdesign，viz。，toviewtheseasideonthiscoast，whichisparticularlyfamousforbeingoneofthemostdangerousandmostfataltothesailorsinallEngland-ImaysayinallBritain-andthemoresobecauseofthegreatnumberofshipswhicharecontinuallygoingandcomingthiswayintheirpassagebetweenLondonandallthenortherncoastsofGreatBritain。Mattersofantiquityarenotmyinquiry，butprincipallyobservationsonthepresentstateofthings，and，ifpossible，togivesuchaccountsofthingsworthyofrecordingashaveneverbeenobservedbefore；andthisleadsmethemoredirectlytomentionthecommerceandthenavigationwhenIcometotownsuponthecoastaswhatfewwritershaveyetmeddledwith。
Thereasonofthedangersofthisparticularcoastarefoundinthesituationofthecountyandinthecourseofshipssailingthisway，whichIshalldescribeaswellasIcanthus:-TheshorefromthemouthoftheRiverofThamestoYarmouthRoadsliesinastraightlinefromSSE。TONNW。，thelandbeingontheW。orlarboardside。
FromWintertonness，whichistheutmostnortherlypointoflandinthecountyofNorfolk，andaboutfourmilesbeyondYarmouth，theshorefallsofffornearlysixtymilestothewest，asfarasLynnandBoston，tilltheshoreofLincolnshiretendsnorthagainforaboutsixtymilesmoreasfarastheHumber，whencethecoastofYorkshire，orHolderness，whichistheeastriding，shootsoutagainintothesea，totheSpurnandtoFlamboroughHead，asfareast，almost，astheshoreofNorfolkhadgivenbackatWinterton，makingaverydeepgulforbaybetweenthosetwopointsofWintertonandtheSpurnHead；sothattheshipsgoingnorthareobligedtostretchawaytoseafromWintertonness，andleavingthesightoflandinthatdeepbaywhichIhavementioned，thatreachestoLynnandtheshoreofLincolnshire，theygo，Isay，N。orstillNNW。tomeettheshoreofHolderness，whichIsaidrunsoutintotheseaagainattheSpurn；andthefirstlandtheymakeordesiretomake，iscalledasabove，FlamboroughHead，sothatWintertonnessandFlamboroughHeadarethetwoextremesofthiscourse，thereis，asIsaid，theSpurnHeadindeedbetween；butasitliestoofarintowardstheHumber，theykeepouttothenorthtoavoidcomingnearit。
Inlikemannertheshipswhichcomefromthenorth，leavetheshoreatFlamboroughHead，andstretchawaySSE。forYarmouthRoads；andtheyfirstlandtheymakeisWintertonnessasabove。Now，thedangeroftheplaceisthis:iftheshipscomingfromthenortharetakenwithahardgaleofwindfromtheSE。，orfromanypointbetweenNE。andSE。，sothattheycannot，astheseamencallit，weatherWintertonness，theyaretherebykeptwithinthatdeepbay；
andifthewindblowshard，areoftenindangerofrunningonshoreupontherocksaboutCromer，onthenorthcoastofNorfolk，orstrandingupontheflatshorebetweenCromerandWells；alltherelieftheyhave，isgoodgroundtackletorideitout，whichisveryhardtodothere，theseacomingveryhighuponthem；oriftheycannotrideitoutthen，torunintothebottomofthegreatbayImentioned，toLynnorBoston，whichisaverydifficultanddesperatepush:sothatsometimesinthisdistresswholefleetshavebeenlostherealtogether。
Thelikeisthedangertoshipsgoingnorthward，ifafterpassingbyWintertontheyaretakenshortwithanorth-eastwind，andcannotputbackintotheRoads，whichveryoftenhappens，thentheyaredrivenuponthesamecoast，andembayedjustasthelatter。
Thedangeronthenorthpartofthisbayisnotthesame，becauseifshipsgoingorcomingshouldbetakenshortonthissideFlamborough，thereistheriverHumberopentothem，andseveralgoodroadstohaverecourseto，asBurlingtonBay，GrimsbyRoad，andtheSpurnHead，andothers，wheretheyrideundershelter。
Thedangersofthisplacebeingthusconsidered，itisnowonder，thatupontheshorebeyondYarmouththerearenolessthanfourlighthouseskeptflamingeverynight，besidesthelightsatCastor，northofthetown，andatGoulstonS。，allofwhicharetodirectthesailorstokeepagoodoffingincaseofbadweather，andtopreventtheirrunningintoCromerBay，whichtheseamencallthedevil'sthroat。
AsIwentbylandfromYarmouthnorthward，alongtheshoretowardsCromeraforesaid，andwasnotthenfullymasterofthereasonofthesethings，Iwassurprisedtosee，inallthewayfromWinterton，thatthefarmersandcountrypeoplehadscarceabarn，orashed，orastable，nay，notthepalesoftheiryardsandgardens，notahogstye，notanecessaryhouse，butwhatwasbuiltofoldplanks，beams，wales，andtimbers，etc。，thewrecksofships，andruinsofmariners'andmerchants'fortunes；andinsomeplaceswerewholeyardsfilledandpiledupveryhighwiththesamestufflaidup，asIsupposedtosellforthelikebuildingpurposes，asthereshouldheoccasion。
Abouttheyear1692IthinkitwasthatyeartherewasamelancholyexampleofwhatIhavesaidofthisplace:afleetof200sailoflightcollierssotheycalltheshipsboundnorthwardemptytofetchcoalsfromNewcastletoLondonwentoutofYarmouthRoadswithafairwind，topursuetheirvoyage，andweretakenshortwithastormofwindatNE。aftertheywerepastWintertonness，afewleagues；someofthem，whosemasterswerealittlemorewarythantherest，orperhaps，whomadeabetterjudgmentofthings，orwhowerenotsofaroutastherest，tacked，andputbackintime，andgotsafeintotheroads；buttherestpushingoninhopestokeepouttosea，andweatherit，werebytheviolenceofthestormdrivenback，whentheyweretoofarembayedtoweatherWintertonnessasabove，andsowereforcedtorunwest，everyoneshiftingforthemselvesaswellastheycould；somerunawayforLynnDeeps，butfewofthemthenightbeingsodark
couldfindtheirwayinthere；some，butveryfew，rodeitoutatadistance；therest，beingabove140sail，werealldrivenonshoreanddashedtopieces，andveryfewofthepeopleonboardweresaved:attheverysameunhappyjuncture，afleetofladenshipswerecomingfromthenorth，andbeingjustcrossingthesamebay，wereforciblydrivenintoit，notabletoweathertheNess，andsowereinvolvedinthesameruinasthelightfleetwas；alsosomecoastingvesselsladenwithcornfromLynnandWells，andboundforHolland，werewiththesameunhappyluckjustcomeouttobegintheirvoyage，andsomeofthemlayatanchor；thesealsometwiththesamemisfortune，sothat，inthewhole，above200sailofships，andaboveathousandpeople，perishedinthedisasterofthatonemiserablenight，veryfewescaping。
Cromerisamarkettownclosetotheshoreofthisdangerouscoast。
Iknownothingitisfamousforbesidesitbeingthustheterrorofthesailorsexceptgoodlobsters，whicharetakenonthatcoastingreatnumbersandcarriedtoNorwich，andinsuchquantitiessometimestooastobeconveyedbyseatoLondon。
Fartherwithintheland，andbetweenthisplaceandNorwich，areseveralgoodmarkettowns，andinnumerablevillages，alldiligentlyapplyingtothewoollenmanufacture，andthecountryisexceedinglyfruitfulandfertile，aswellincornasinpastures；particularly，whichwasverypleasanttosee，thepheasantswereinsuchgreatplentyastobeseeninthestubbleslikecocksandhens-atestimonythough，bytheway，thatthecountyhadmoretradesmenthangentlemeninit；indeed，thispartissoentirelygivenuptoindustry，thatwhatwiththeseafaringmenontheoneside，andthemanufacturesontheother，wesawnoidlehandshere，buteverymanbusyonthemainaffairoflife，thatistosay，gettingmoney；
someoftheprincipalofthesetownsare:-Alsham，NorthWalsham，SouthWalsham，Worsted，Caston，Reepham，Holt，Saxthorp，St。
Faith's，Blikling，andmanyothers。Nearthelast，SirJohnHobart，ofanancientfamilyinthiscounty，hasanobleseat，butoldbuilt。ThisisthatSt。Faith's，wherethedroversbringtheirblackcattletoselltotheNorfolkgraziers，asisobservedabove。
FromCromerwerideonthestrandoropenshoretoWeyburnHope，theshoresoflatthatinsomeplacesthetideebbsoutneartwomiles。FromWeyburnwestliesClye，wheretherearelargesalt-
worksandverygoodsaltmade，whichissoldalloverthecounty，andsometimessenttoHollandandtotheBaltic。FromClyewegotoMashamandtoWells，alltownsonthecoast，ineachwhereofthereisaveryconsiderabletradecarriedonwithHollandforcorn，whichthatpartofthecountyisveryfullof。IsaynothingofthegreattradedrivenherefromHolland，backagaintoEngland，becauseItakeittobeatradecarriedonwithmuchlesshonestythanadvantage，especiallywhiletheclandestinetrade，ortheartofsmugglingwassomuchinpractice:whatitisnow，isnottomypresentpurpose。
NearthistownlieTheSevenBurnhams，astheyarecalled，thatistosay，sevensmalltowns，allcalledbythesamename，andeachemployedinthesametradeofcarryingcorntoHolland，andbringingback，-etc。
Fromhenceweturntothesouth-westtoCastleRising，anolddecayedboroughtown，withperhapsnottenfamiliesinit，whichyettothescandalofourprescriptionrightsendstwomemberstotheBritishParliament，beingasmanyastheCityofNorwichitselforanytowninthekingdom，Londonexcepted，cando。
OnourleftweseeWalsingham，anancienttown，famousfortheoldruinsofamonasteryofnotethere，andtheShrineofourLady，asnotedasthatofSt。Thomas-e-BecketatCanterbury，andforlittleelse。
NearthisplacearetheseatsofthetwoalliedfamiliesoftheLordViscountTownsendandRobertWalpole，Esq。；thelatteratthistimeoneoftheLordsCommissionersoftheTreasuryandMinisterofState，andtheformeroneoftheprincipalSecretariesofStatetoKingGeorge，ofwhichagain。
FromhencewewenttoLynn，anotherrichandpopulousthrivingport-town。ItstandsonmoregroundthanthetownofYarmouth，andhas，Ithink，parishes，yetIcannotallowthatithasmorepeoplethanYarmouth，ifsomany。Itisabeautiful，wellbuilt，andwellsituatedtown，atthemouthoftheRiverOuse，andhasthisparticularattendingit，whichgivesitavastadvantageintrade；
namely，thatthereisthegreatestextentofinlandnavigationhereofanyportinEngland，Londonexcepted。Thereasonwhereofisthis，thattherearemorenavigableriversemptythemselveshereintothesea，includingthewashes，whicharebranchesofthesameport，thanatanyonemouthofwatersinEngland，excepttheThamesandtheHumber。Bythesenavigablerivers，themerchantsofLynnsupplyaboutsixcountieswholly，andthreecountiesinpart，withtheirgoods，especiallywineandcoals，viz。，bythelittleOuse，theysendtheirgoodstoBrandonandThetford，bytheLaketoMildenhall，BartonMills，andSt。Edmundsbury；bytheRiverGranttoCambridge，bythegreatOuseitselftoEly，toSt。Ives，toSt。
Neots，toBarfordBridge，andtoBedford；bytheRiverNynetoPeterborough；bythedrainsandwashestoWisbeach，toSpalding，MarketDeeping，andStamford；besidestheseveralcounties，intowhichthesegoodsarecarriedbyland-carriage，fromtheplaces，wherethenavigationofthoseriversend；whichhasgivenrisetothisobservationonthetownofLynn，thattheybringinmorecoalsthananysea-portbetweenLondonandNewcastle；andimportmorewinesthananyportinEngland，exceptLondonandBristol；theirtradetoNorwayandtotheBalticSeaisalsogreatinproportion，andoflateyearstheyhaveextendedtheirtradefarthertothesouthward。
Herearemoregentry，andconsequentlyismoregaietyinthistownthaninYarmouth，oreveninNorwichitself-theplaceaboundinginverygoodcompany。
Thesituationofthistownrendersitcapableofbeingmadeverystrong，andinthelatewarsitwasso；alineoffortificationbeingdrawnrounditatadistancefromthewalls；theruins，orratherremainsofwhichworksappearveryfairtothisday；norwoulditbeahardmattertorestorethebastions，withtheravelins，andcounterscarp，uponanysuddenemergency，toagoodstateofdefence:andthatinalittletime，asufficientnumberofworkmenbeingemployed，especiallybecausetheyareabletofillalltheirditcheswithwaterfromthesea，insuchamannerasthatitcannotbedrawnoff。
Thereisinthemarket-placeofthistownaveryfinestatueofKingWilliamonhorseback，erectedatthechargeofthetown。TheOuseismightylargeanddeep，closetotheverytownitself，andshipsofgoodburthenmaycomeuptothequay；butthereisnobridge，thestreambeingtoostrongandthebottommoorishandunsound；nor，forthesamereason，istheanchoragecomputedthebestintheworld；buttherearegoodroadsfartherdown。
Theypassoverhereinboatsintothefencountry，andoverthefamouswashesintoLincolnshire，butthepassageisverydangerousanduneasy，andwherepassengersoftenmiscarryandarelost；butthenitisusuallyontheirventuringatimpropertimes，andwithouttheguides，whichiftheywouldbepersuadednottodo，theywouldveryrarelyfailofgoingorcomingsafe。
FromLynnIbentmycoursetoDownham，whereisanuglywoodenbridgeovertheOuse；fromwhencewepassedthefencountrytoWisbeach，butsawnothingthatwaytotemptourcuriositybutdeeproads，innumerabledrainsanddykesofwater，allnavigable，andarichsoil，thelandbearingavastquantityofgoodhemp，butabaseunwholesomeair；sowecamebacktoEly，whosecathedral，standinginalevelflatcountry，isseenfarandwide，andofwhichtown，whentheminster，sotheycallit，isdescribed，everythingremarkableissaidthatthereisroomtosay。Andoftheminster，thisisthemostremarkablethingthatIcouldhearit，namely，thatsomeofitissoancient，totterssomuchwitheverygustofwind，lookssolikeadecay，andseemssonearit，thatwheneveritdoesfall，allthatitislikelywillbethoughtstrangeinitwillbethatitdidnotfallahundredyearssooner。
FromhencewecameovertheOuse，andinafewmilestoNewmarket。
Inourway，nearSnaybell，wesawanobleseatofthelateAdmiralRussell，nowEarlofOrford，anamemadefamousbythegloriousvictoryobtainedunderhiscommandovertheFrenchfleetandtheburningtheirshipsatLaHogue-avictoryequalingloryto，andinfinitelymoreglorioustotheEnglishnationinparticular，thanthatatBlenheim，and，aboveall，moretotheparticularadvantageoftheconfederacy，becauseitsobroketheheartofthenavalpowerofFrancethattheyhavenotfullyrecoveredittothisday。