Butofthisvictoryitmustbesaiditwasowingtothehaughty,rash,andinsolentordersgivenbytheKingofFrancetohisadmiral,viz。,tofighttheconfederatefleetwhereverhefoundthem,withoutleavingroomforhimtouseduecautionifhefoundthemtoostrong,whichprideofFrancewasdoubtlessafateuponthem,andgaveacheapvictorytotheconfederates,theFrenchcomingdownrashly,andwiththemostimpoliticbravery,withaboutfive-and-fortysailtoattackbetweenseventyandeightysail,bywhichmeanstheymettheirruin。Whereas,hadtheirownfleetbeenjoined,itmighthavecostmorebloodtohavemasteredthemifithadbeendoneatall。
Thesituationofthishouseislow,andontheedgeofthefencountry,butthebuildingisveryfine,theavenuesnoble,andthegardensperfectlyfinished。Theapartmentsalsoarerich,andI
seenothingwantingbutafamilyandheirstosustainthegloryandinheritanceoftheillustriousancestorwhoraisedit-SEDCARET
PEDIBUS;thesearewanting。
BeingcometoNewmarketinthemonthofOctober,Ihadtheopportunitytoseethehorseracesandagreatconcourseofthenobilityandgentry,aswellfromLondonasfromallpartsofEngland,buttheywereallsointent,soeager,sobusyuponthesharpingpartofthesport-theirwagersandbets-thattometheyseemedjustassomanyhorse-coursersinSmithfield,descendingthegreatestofthemfromtheirhighdignityandqualitytopickingoneanother'spockets,andbitingoneanotherasmuchaspossible,andthatwithsucheagernessasthatitmightbesaidtheyactedwithoutrespecttofaith,honour,orgoodmanners。
TherewasMr。Framptontheoldest,and,assomesay,thecunningestjockeyinEngland;onedayhelostonethousandguineas,thenexthewontwothousand;andsoalternatelyhemadeaslightofthrowingawayfivehundredoronethousandpoundsatatimeasothermendooftheirpocket-money,andasperfectlycalm,cheerful,andunconcernedwhenhehadlostonethousandpoundsaswhenhehadwonit。OntheothersidetherewasSirRFagg,ofSussex,ofwhomfamesayshehasthemostinhimandtheleasttoshowforitrelatingtojockeyshipofanymanthere,yetheoftencarriedtheprize。Hishorses,theysaid,wereallcheats,howhonestsoevertheirmasterwas,forhescarceeverproducedahorsebuthelookedlikewhathewasnot,andwaswhatnobodycouldexpecthimtobe。Ifhewasaslightasthewind,andcouldflylikeameteor,hewassuretolookasclumsy,andasdirty,andasmuchlikeacart-horseasallthecunningofhismasterandthegroomscouldmakehim,andjustinthismannerhebeatsomeofthegreatestgamestersinthefield。
IwassosickofthejockeyingpartthatIleftthecrowdaboutthepostsandpleasedmyselfwithobservingthehorses:howthecreaturesyieldedtoalltheartsandmanagementsoftheirmasters;
howtheytooktheirairingsinsport,andplayedwiththedailyheatswhichtheyranoverthecoursebeforethegrandday。Buthow,asknowingthedifferenceequallywiththeirriders,wouldtheyexerttheirutmoststrengthatthetimeoftheraceitself!
Andthattosuchanextremitythatoneortwoofthemdiedinthestablewhentheycametoberubbedafterthefirstheat。
HereIfanciedmyselfintheCircusMaximusatRomeseeingtheancientgamesandtheracingsofthechariotsandhorsemen,andinthiswarmthofmyimaginationIpleasedanddivertedmyselfmoreandinamorenoblemannerthanIcouldpossiblydointhecrowdsofgentlemenattheweighingandstarting-postsandattheircomingin,orattheirmeetingsatthecoffee-housesandgaming-tablesaftertheraceswereover,wheretherewaslittleornothingtobeseenbutwhatwasthesubjectofjustreproachtothemandreprooffromeverywisemanthatlookeduponthem。
N。B-Praytakeitwithyou,asyougo,youseenoladiesatNewmarket,exceptafewoftheneighbouringgentlemen'sfamilies,whocomeintheircoachesonanyparticulardaytoseearace,andsogohomeagaindirectly。
AsIwaspleasingmyselfwithwhatwastobeseenhere,Iwentintheintervalsofthesporttoseethefineseatsofthegentlemenintheneighbouringcounty,forthispartofSuffolk,beinganopenchampaigncountryandahealthyair,isformedforpleasureandallkindsofcountrydiversion,Nature,asitwere,invitingthegentlementovisitherwhereshewasfullypreparedtoreceivethem,inconformitytowhichkindsummonstheycame,forthecountryis,asitwere,coveredwithfinepalacesofthenobilityandpleasantseatsofthegentlemen。
TheEarlofOrford'shouseIhavementionedalready;thenextisEustonHall,theseatoftheDukeofGrafton。ItliesintheopencountrytowardsthesideofNorfolk,notfarfromThetford,aplacecapableofallthatispleasantanddelightfulinNature,andimprovedbyarttoeveryextremethatNatureisabletoproduce。
FromthenceIwenttoRushbrook,formerlytheseatofthenoblefamilyofJermyns,latelyLordDover,andnowofthehouseofDavers。HereNature,forthetimeIwasthere,droopedandveiledallthebeautiesofwhichsheonceboasted,thefamilybeingintearsandthehouseshutup,SirRobertDavers,theheadthereof,andknightoftheshireforthecountyofSuffolk,andwhohadmarriedtheeldestdaughterofthelateLordDover,beingjustdead,andthecorpselyingthereinitsfuneralformofceremony,notyetburied。Yetalllookedlovelyintheirsorrow,andanumerousissuepromisingandgrownupintimatedthatthefamilyofDaverswouldstillflourish,andthatthebeautiesofRushbrook,themansionofthefamily,werenotformedwithsomuchartinvainortodiewiththepresentpossessor。
AfterthiswesawBrently,theseatoftheEarlofDysert,andtheancientpalaceofmyLordCornwallis,withseveralothersofexquisitesituation,andadornedwiththebeautiesbothofartandNature,sothatIthinkanytravellerfromabroad,whowoulddesiretoseehowtheEnglishgentrylive,andwhatpleasurestheyenjoy,shouldcomeintoSuffolkandCambridgeshire,andtakebutalightcircuitamongthecountryseatsofthegentlemenonthissideonly,andtheywouldbesoonconvincedthatnotFrance,no,notItalyitself,canoutdotheminproportiontotheclimatetheylivedin。
IhadstillthecountyofCambridgetovisittocompletethistouroftheeasternpartofEngland,andofthatIcomenowtospeak。
WeenterCambridgeshireoutofSuffolk,withalltheadvantageintheworld;thecountybeginninguponthosepleasantandagreeableplainscalledNewmarketHeath,wherepassingtheDevil'sDitch,whichhasnothingworthnoticebutitsname,andthatbutfabuloustoo,fromthehillscalledGogmagog,weseearichandpleasantvalewestward,coveredwithcorn-fields,gentlemen'sseats,villages,andatadistance,tocrownalltherest,thatancientandtrulyfamoustownanduniversityofCambridge,capitalofthecounty,andreceivingitsnamefrom,ifnot,assomesay,givingnametoit;forifitbetruethatthetowntakesitsnameofCambridgefromitsbridgeovertheriverCam,thencertainlytheshireorcounty,uponthedivisionofEnglandintocounties,haditsnamefromthetown,andCambridgeshiresignifiesnomoreorlessthanthecountyofwhichCambridgeisthecapitaltown。
Asmybusinessisnottolayoutthegeographicalsituationofplaces,Isaynothingofthebuttingsandboundingsofthiscounty。
Itliesontheedgeofthegreatlevel,calledbythepeopleheretheFenCountry;andgreatpart,ifnotall,theIsleofElyliesinthiscountyandNorfolk。TherestofCambridgeshireisalmostwhollyacorncountry,andofthatcornfivepartsinsixofalltheysowisbarley,whichisgenerallysoldtoWareandRoyston,andothergreatmaltingtownsinHertfordshire,andisthefundfromwhencethatvastquantityofmalt,calledHertfordshiremalt,ismade,whichisesteemedthebestinEngland。AsEssex,Suffolk,andNorfolkaretakenupinmanufactures,andfamedforindustry,thiscountyhasnomanufactureatall;norarethepoor,exceptthehusbandmen,famedforanythingsomuchasidlenessandsloth,totheirscandalbeitspoken。WhatthereasonofitisIknownot。
ItisscarcepossibletotalkofanythinginCambridgeshirebutCambridgeitself;whetheritbethatthecountyhassolittleworthspeakingofinit,or,thatthetownhassomuch,thatIleavetoothers;however,asIammakingmodernobservations,notwritinghistory,Ishalllookintothecounty,aswellasintothecolleges,forwhatIhavetosay。
AsIsaid,IfirsthadaviewofCambridgefromGogmagoghills;I
amtoaddthatthereappearsonthemountainthatgoesbythisname,anancientcamporfortification,thatliesonthetopofthehill,withadouble,orrathertreble,rampartandditch,whichmostofourwriterssaywasneitherRomannorSaxon,butBritish。
IamtoaddthatKingJamesII。causedaspaciousstabletobebuiltintheareaofthiscampforhisrunninghomes,andmadeoldMr。Frampton,whomImentionedabove,masterorinspectorofthem。
Thestablesremainstillthere,thoughtheyarenotoftenmadeuseof。AswedescendedwestwardwesawtheFencountryonourright,almostallcoveredwithwaterlikeasea,theMichaelmasrainshavingbeenverygreatthatyear,theyhadsentdowngreatfloodsofwaterfromtheuplandcountries,andthosefensbeing,asmaybeveryproperlysaid,thesinkofnolessthanthirteencounties-
thatistosay,thatallthewater,ormostpartofthewater,ofthirteencountiesfallsintothem;theyareoftenthusoverflowed。
Theriverswhichthusemptythemselvesintothesefens,andwhichthuscarryoffthewater,aretheCamorGrant,theGreatOuseandLittleOuse,theNene,theWelland,andtheriverwhichrunsfromBurytoMildenHall。Thecountieswhichtheseriversdrain,asabove,areasfollows:-
Lincoln,Warwick,Norfolk,*Cambridge,Oxford,Suffolk,*Huntingdon,Leicester,Essex,*Bedford,*NorthamptonBuckingham,*Rutland。
Thosemarkedwith*emptyalltheirwatersthisway,therestbutinpart。
Inaword,allthewaterofthemiddlepartofEnglandwhichdoesnotrunintotheThamesortheTrent,comesdownintothesefens。
Inthesefensareabundanceofthoseadmirablepiecesofartcalleddecoysthatistosay,placessoadaptedfortheharbourandshelterofwildfowl,andthenfurnishedwithabreedofthosetheycalldecoyducks,whoaretaughttoallureandenticetheirkindtotheplacestheybelongto,thatitisincrediblewhatquantitiesofwildfowlofallsorts,duck,mallard,teal,widgeon,&c。,theytakeinthosedecoyseveryweekduringtheseason;itmay,indeed,beguessedatalittlebythis,thatthereisadecoynotfarfromElywhichpaystothelandlord,SirThomasHare,500poundsayearrent,besidesthechargeofmaintainingagreatnumberofservantsforthemanagement;andfromwhichdecoyalone,theyassuredmeatSt。IvesatownontheOuse,wherethefowltheytookwasalwaysbroughttobesenttoLondonthattheygenerallysentupthreethousandcoupleaweek。
TherearemoreoftheseaboutPeterborough,whosendthefowluptwiceaweekinwaggon-loadsatatime,whosewaggonsbeforethelateActofParliamenttoregulatecarriersIhaveseendrawnbytenandtwelvehorsesa-piece,theywereladensoheavy。
Asthesefensappearcoveredwithwater,soIobserved,too,thattheygenerallyatthislatterpartoftheyearappearalsocoveredwithfogs,sothatwhenthedownsandhighergroundsoftheadjacentcountryweregildedwiththebeamsofthesun,theIsleofElylookedasifwrappedupinblankets,andnothingtobeseenbutnowandthenthelanternorcupolaofElyMinster。
Onecouldhardlyseethisfromthehillsandnotpitythemanythousandsoffamiliesthatwereboundtoorconfinedinthosefogs,andhadnootherbreathtodrawthanwhatmustbemixedwiththosevapours,andthatsteamwhichsouniversallyoverspreadsthecountry。Butnotwithstandingthis,thepeople,especiallythosethatareusedtoit,liveunconcerned,andashealthyasotherfolks,exceptnowandthenanague,whichtheymakelightof,andtherearegreatnumbersofveryancientpeopleamongthem。
InowdrawneartoCambridge,towhichIfancyIlookasifIwasafraidtocome,havingmadesomanycircumlocutionsbeforehand;butImustyetmakeanotherdigressionbeforeIenterthetownforinmyway,andasIcameinfromNewmarket,aboutthebeginningofSeptember,Icannotomit,thatIcamenecessarilythroughStourbridgeFair,whichwastheninitsheight。
Ifitisadiversionworthyabooktotreatoftrifles,suchasthegaietyofBuryFair,itcannotbeveryunpleasant,especiallytothetradingpartoftheworld,tosaysomethingofthisfair,whichisnotonlythegreatestinthewholenation,butintheworld;
nor,ifImaybelievethosewhohaveseenthemall,isthefairatLeipziginSaxony,themartatFrankfort-on-the-Main,orthefairsatNuremberg,orAugsburg,anywaytocomparetothisfairatStourbridge。
Itiskeptinalargecorn-field,nearCasterton,extendingfromthesideoftheriverCam,towardstheroad,forabouthalfamilesquare。
Ifthehusbandmenwhorenttheland,donotgettheircornoffbeforeacertaindayinAugust,thefair-keepersmaytrampleitunderfootandspoilittobuildtheirbooths,ortents,forallthefairiskeptintentsandbooths。Ontheotherhand,tobalancethatseverity,ifthefair-keepershavenotdonetheirbusinessofthefair,andremovedandclearedthefieldbyanothercertaindayinSeptember,theploughmenmaycomeinagain,withploughandcart,andoverthrowall,andtrampleintothedirt;andasforthefilth,dung,straw,etc。necessarilyleftbythefair-
keepers,thequantityofwhichisverygreat,itisthefarmers'
fees,andmakesthemfullamendsforthetrampling,riding,andcartingupon,andhardeningtheground。
Itisimpossibletodescribeallthepartsandcircumstancesofthisfairexactly;theshopsareplacedinrowslikestreets,whereofoneiscalledCheapside;andhere,asinseveralotherstreets,areallsortsoftrades,whosellbyretail,andwhocomeprincipallyfromLondonwiththeirgoods;scarceanytradesareomitted-goldsmiths,toyshops,brasiers,turners,milliners,haberdashers,hatters,mercers,drapers,pewterers,china-
warehouses,andinawordalltradesthatcanbenamedinLondon;
withcoffee-houses,taverns,brandy-shops,andeating-houses,innumerable,andallintents,andbooths,asabove。
Thisgreatstreetreachesfromtheroad,whichasIsaidgoesfromCambridgetoNewmarket,turningshortoutofittotherighttowardstheriver,andholdsinalinenearhalfamilequitedowntotheriver-side:inanotherstreetparallelwiththeroadarelikerowsofbooths,butlarger,andmoreintermingledwithwholesaledealers;andoneside,passingoutofthislaststreettothelefthand,isaformalgreatsquare,formedbythelargestbooths,builtinthatform,andwhichtheycalltheDuddery;whencethenameisderived,andwhatitssignificationis,Icouldneveryetlearn,thoughImadeallpossiblesearchintoit。Theareaofthissquareisabout80to100yards,wherethedealershaveroombeforeeveryboothtotakedown,andopentheirpacks,andtobringinwaggonstoloadandunload。
Thisplaceisseparated,andpeculiartothewholesaledealersinthewoollenmanufacture。Heretheboothsortentsareofavastextent,havedifferentapartments,andthequantitiesofgoodstheybringaresogreat,thattheinsidesofthemlooklikeanotherBlackwellHall,beingasvastwarehousespiledupwithgoodstothetop。InthisDuddery,asIhavebeeninformed,therehavebeensoldonehundredthousandpoundsworthofwoollenmanufacturesinlessthanaweek'stime,besidestheprodigioustradecarriedonhere,bywholesalemen,fromLondon,andallpartsofEngland,whotransacttheirbusinesswhollyintheirpocket-books,andmeetingtheirchapmenfromallparts,makeuptheiraccounts,receivemoneychieflyinbills,andtakeorders:Thesetheysayexceedbyfarthesalesofgoodsactuallybroughttothefair,anddeliveredinkind;
itbeingfrequentfortheLondonwholesalementocarrybackordersfromtheirdealersfortenthousandpounds'worthofgoodsaman,andsomemuchmore。Thisespeciallyrespectsthosepeople,whodealinheavygoods,aswholesalegrocers,salters,brasiers,iron-
merchants,wine-merchants,andthelike;butdoesnotexcludethedealersinwoollenmanufactures,andespeciallyinmercerygoodsofallsorts,thedealersinwhichgenerallymanagetheirbusinessinthismanner。
HereareclothiersfromHalifax,Leeds,WakefieldandHuddersfieldinYorkshire,andfromRochdale,Bury,etc。,inLancashire,withvastquantitiesofYorkshirecloths,kerseys,pennistons,cottons,etc。,withallsortsofManchesterware,fustiains,andthingsmadeofcottonwool;ofwhichthequantityissogreat,thattheytoldmetherewerenearathousandhorse-packsofsuchgoodsfromthatsideofthecountry,andthesetookupasideandhalfoftheDudderyatleast;alsoapartofastreetofboothsweretakenupwithupholsterer'sware,suchastickings,sackings,kidderminsterstuffs,blankets,rugs,quilts,etc。
IntheDudderyIsawonewarehouse,orboothwithsixapartmentsinit,allbelongingtoadealerinNorwichstuffsonly,andwho,theysaid,hadthereabovetwentythousandpoundsvalueinthosegoods,andnoother。
Westerngoodshadtheirshareherealso,andseveralboothswerefilledasfullwithserges,duroys,druggets,shalloons,cantaloons,Devonshirekerseys,etc。,fromExeter,Taunton,Bristol,andotherpartswest,andsomefromLondonalso。
Butallthisisstilloutdoneatleastinshow,bytwoarticles,whicharethepeculiarsofthisfair,anddonotbegintilltheotherpartofthefair,thatistosayforthewoollenmanufacturebeginstodrawtoaclose。Thesearethewoolandthehops;asforthehops,thereisscarceanypricefixedforhopsinEngland,tilltheyknowhowtheysellatStourbridgefair;thequantitythatappearsinthefairisindeedprodigious,andthey,asitwere,possessalargepartofthefieldonwhichthefairiskepttothemselves;theyarebroughtdirectlyfromChelmsfordinEssex,fromCanterburyandMaidstoneinKent,andfromFarnhaminSurrey,besideswhatarebroughtfromLondon,thegrowthofthoseandotherplaces。
Enquiringwhythisfairshouldbethus,ofallotherplacesinEngland,thecentreofthattrade;andsogreataquantityofsobulkyacommoditybecarriedthithersofar;Iwasansweredbyonethoroughlyacquaintedwiththatmatterthus:thehops,saidhe,forthispartofEngland,growprincipallyinthetwocountiesofSurreyandKent,withanexceptiononlytothetownofChelmsfordinEssex,andthereareveryfewplantedanywhereelse。
ThereareindeedinthewestofEnglandsomequantitiesgrowing:asatWilton,nearSalisbury;atHerefordandBroomsgrove,nearWales,andthelike;butthequantityisinconsiderable,andtheplacesremote,sothatnoneofthemcometoLondon。
AstothenorthofEngland,theyformerlyusedbutfewhopsthere,theirdrinkbeingchieflypalesmoothale,whichrequirednohops,andconsequentlytheyplantednohopsinallthatpartofEngland,northoftheTrent;nordidIeverseeoneacreofhop-groundplantedbeyondTrentinmyobservation;butasforsomeyearspast,theynotonlybrewgreatquantitiesofbeerinthenorth,butalsousehopsinthebrewingtheiralemuchmorethantheydidbefore;
sotheyallcomesouthofTrenttobuytheirhops;andherebeingquantitiesbrought,itisgreatpartoftheirbackcarriageintoYorkshire,andNorthamptonshire,Derbyshire,Lancashire,andallthesecounties;nay,oflate,sincetheUnion,eventoScotlanditself;forImustnotomitherealsotomention,thattheriverGrant,orCam,whichrunsclosebythenorth-westsideofthefairinitswayfromCambridgetoEly,isnavigable,andthatbythismeans,allheavygoodsarebroughteventothefair-field,bywatercarriagefromLondonandotherparts;firsttotheportofLynn,andtheninbargesuptheOuse,fromtheOuseintotheCam,andso,asIsay,totheveryedgeofthefair。
Inlikemannergreatquantitiesofheavygoods,andthehopsamongtherest,aresentfromthefairtoLynnbywater,andshippedtherefortheHumber,toHull,York,etc。,andforNewcastle-upon-
Tyne,andbyNewcastle,eventoScotlanditself。Nowasthereisstillnoplantingofhopsinthenorth,thoughagreatconsumption,andtheconsumptionincreasingdaily,this,saysmyfriend,isonereasonwhyatStourbridgefairthereissogreatademandforthehops。Headded,thatbesidesthis,therewereveryfewhops,ifanyworthnaming,growinginallthecountiesevenonthissideTrent,whichwereabovefortymilesfromLondon;thosecountiesdependingonStourbridgefairfortheirsupply,sothecountiesofSuffolk,Norfolk,Cambridge,Huntingdon,Northampton,Lincoln,Leicester,Rutland,andeventoStafford,Warwick,andWorcestershire,boughtmostifnotalloftheirhopsatStourbridgefair。
Thesearethereasonswhysogreataquantityofhopsareseenatthisfair,asthatitisincredible,considering,too,howremotefromthisfairthegrowthofthemisasabove。
ThisislikewiseatestimonyoftheprodigiousresortofthetradingpeopleofallpartsofEnglandtothisfair;thequantityofhopsthathavebeensoldatoneofthesefairsisdiverselyreported,andsomeaffirmittobesogreat,thatIdarenotcopyafterthem;butwithoutdoubtitisasurprisingaccount,especiallyinacheapyear。
Thenextarticlebroughtthitheriswool,andthisofseveralsorts,butprincipallyfleecewool,outofLincolnshire,wherethelongeststapleisfound;thesheepofthosecountriesbeingofthelargestbreed。
ThebuyersofthiswoolarechieflyindeedthemanufacturersofNorfolkandSuffolkandEssex,anditisaprodigiousquantitytheybuy。
HereIsawwhatIhavenotobservedinanyothercountyofEngland,namely,apocketofwool。Thisseemstobefirstcalledsoinmockery,thispocketbeingsobig,thatitloadsawholewaggon,andreachesbeyondthemostextremepartsofithangingoverbothbeforeandbehind,andtheseordinarilyweighatonortwenty-fivehundredweightofwool,allinonebag。
Thequantityofwoolonly,whichhasbeensoldatthisplaceatonefair,hasbeensaidtoamounttofiftyorsixtythousandpoundsinvalue,somesayagreatdealmore。
Bythesearticlesastrangermaymakesomeguessattheimmensetradecarriedonatthisplace;whatprodigiousquantitiesofgoodsareboughtandsoldhere,andwhataconfluenceofpeopleareseenherefromallpartsofEngland。
ImightgoonheretospeakofseveralothersortsofEnglishmanufactureswhicharebroughthithertobesold;asallsortsofwrought-ironandbrass-warefromBirmingham;edgedtools,knives,etc。,fromSheffield;glasswaresandstockingsfromNottinghamandLeicester;andaninfinitethrongofotherthingsofsmallervalueeverymorning。
Toattendthisfair,andtheprodigiousconfluxofpeoplewhichcometoit,therearesometimesnolessthanfiftyhackneycoacheswhichcomefromLondon,andplynightandmorningtocarrythepeopletoandfromCambridge;fortherethegrossofthepeoplelodge;nay,whichisstillmorestrange,therearewherriesbroughtfromLondononwaggonstoplyuponthelittleriverCam,andtorowpeopleupanddownfromthetown,andfromthefairasoccasionpresents。
Itisnottobewonderedat,ifthetownofCambridgecannotreceive,orentertainthenumbersofpeoplethatcometothisfair;
notCambridgeonly,butallthetownsroundarefull;nay,theverybarnsandstablesareturnedintoinns,andmadeasfitastheycantolodgethemeanersortofpeople:asforthepeopleinthefair,theyalluniversallyeat,drink,andsleepintheirboothsandtents;andthesaidboothsaresointermingledwithtaverns,coffee-houses,drinking-houses,eating-houses,cook-shops,etc。,andallintentstoo;andsomanybutchersandhigglersfromalltheneighbouringcountiescomeintothefaireverymorningwithbeef,mutton,fowls,butter,bread,cheese,eggs,andsuchthings,andgowiththemfromtenttotent,fromdoortodoor,thatthereisnowantofanyprovisionsofanykind,eitherdressedorundressed。
Inaword,thefairislikeawell-fortifiedcity,andthereistheleastdisorderandconfusionIbelieve,thatcanbeseenanywherewithsogreataconcourseofpeople。
Towardsthelatterendofthefair,andwhenthegreathurryofwholesalebusinessbeginstobeover,thegentrycomeinfromallpartsofthecountyround;andthoughtheycomefortheirdiversion,yetitisnotalittlemoneytheylayout,whichgenerallyfallstotheshareoftheretailers,suchastoy-shops,goldsmiths,braziers,ironmongers,turners,milliners,mercers,etc。,andsomeloosecoinstheyreserveforthepuppetshows,drolls,rope-dancers,andsuchlike,ofwhichthereisnowant,thoughnotconsiderableliketherest。Thelastdayofthefairisthehorse-fair,wherethewholeisclosedwithbothhorseandfootraces,todivertthemeanersortofpeopleonly,fornothingconsiderableisofferedofthatkind。Thusendsthewholefair,andinlessthanaweekmore,thereisscarceanysignleftthattherehasbeensuchathingthere,exceptbytheheapsofdungandstrawandotherrubbishwhichisleftbehind,trodintotheearth,andwhichisasgoodasasummer'sfallowfordungingtheland;andasIhavesaidabove,paysthehusbandmanwellfortheuseofit。
Ishouldhavementionedthathereisacourtofjusticealwaysopen,andheldeverydayinashedbuiltonpurposeinthefair;
thisisforkeepingthepeace,anddecidingcontroversiesinmattersderivingfromthebusinessofthefair。ThemagistratesofthetownofCambridgearejudgesinthiscourt,asbeingintheirjurisdiction,ortheyholdingitbyspecialprivilege:heretheydeterminemattersinasummaryway,asispractisedinthosewecallPyePowderCourtsinotherplaces,orasaCourtofConscience;andtheyhaveafinalauthoritywithoutappeal。
IcomenowtothetownanduniversityofCambridge;Isaythetownanduniversity,forthoughtheyareblendedtogetherinthesituation,andthecolleges,halls,andhousesforliteraturearepromiscuouslyscatteredupanddownamongtheotherparts,andsomeevenamongthemeanestoftheotherbuildings,asMagdaleneCollegeoverthebridgeisinparticular;yettheyareallincorporatedtogetherbythenameoftheuniversity,andaregovernedapartanddistinctfromthetownwhichtheyaresointermixedwith。
Astheirauthorityisdistinctfromthetown,soaretheirprivileges,customs,andgovernment;theychooserepresentatives,ormembersofParliamentforthemselves,andthetowndoesthelikeforthemselves,alsoapart。
Thetownisgovernedbyamayorandaldermen;theuniversitybyachancellor,andvice-chancellor,etc。Thoughtheirdwellingsaremixed,andseemalittleconfused,theirauthorityisnotso;insomecasesthevice-chancellormayconcernhimselfinthetown,asinsearchinghousesforthescholarsatimproperhours,removingscandalouswomen,andthelike。
Butasthecollegesaremany,andthegentlemenentertainedinthemareaverygreatnumber,thetradeofthetownverymuchdependsuponthem,andthetradesmenmayjustlybesaidtogettheirbreadbythecolleges;andthisisthesurestholdtheuniversitymaybesaidtohaveofthetownsmen,andbywhichtheysecurethedependenceofthetownuponthem,andconsequentlytheirsubmission。
Iremembersomeyearsagoabrewer,whobeingveryrichandpopularinthetown,andoneoftheirmagistrates,hadinseveralthingssomuchopposedtheuniversity,andinsultedtheirvice-chancellor,orotherheadsofhouses,thatinshorttheuniversityhavingnootherwaytoexertthemselves,andshowtheirresentment,theymadeabye-lawororderamongthemselves,thatforthefuturetheywouldnottradewithhim;andthatnoneofthecolleges,halls,etc。,wouldtakeanymorebeerofhim;andwhatfollowed?Themanindeedbraveditoutawhile,butwhenhefoundhecouldnotobtainarevocationoftheorder,hewasfaintoleaveoffhisbrewhouse,andifIrememberright,quittedthetown。
ThusIsay,interestgivesthemauthority;andthereareabundanceofreasonswhythetownshouldnotdisobligetheuniversity,astherearesomealsoontheotherhand,whytheuniversityshouldnotdiffertoanyextremitywiththetown;nor,suchistheirprudence,dotheyletanydisputesbetweenthemrunuptoanyextremitiesiftheycanavoidit。Asforsociety;toanymanwhoisaloveroflearning,oroflearnedmen,hereisthemostagreeableunderheaven;noristhereanywantofmirthandgoodcompanyofotherkinds;butitistothehonouroftheuniversitytosay,thatthegovernorssowellunderstandtheiroffice,andthegovernedtheirduty,thathereisverylittleencouragementgiventothoseseminariesofcrime,theassemblies,whicharesomuchboastedofinotherplaces。
Again,asdancing,gaming,intriguingarethethreeprincipalarticleswhichrecommendthoseassemblies;andthatgenerallythetimeforcarryingonaffairsofthiskindisthenight,andsometimesallnight,atimeasunseasonableasscandalous;addtothis,thattheordersoftheuniversityadmitnosuchexcesses;I
thereforesay,asthisisthecase,itistothehonourofthewholebodyoftheuniversitythatnoencouragementisgiventothemhere。
Astotheantiquityoftheuniversityinthistown,theoriginalsandfoundersoftheseveralcolleges,theirrevenues,laws,government,andgovernors,theyaresoeffectuallyandsolargelytreatedofbyotherauthors,andaresoforeigntothefamiliardesignoftheseletters,thatIrefermyreaderstoMr。Camden's"Britannia"andtheauthorofthe"AntiquitiesofCambridge,"andothersuchlearnedwriters,bywhomtheymaybefullyinformed。
ThepresentVice-ChancellorisDr。Snape,formerlyMasterofEatonSchoolnearWindsor,andfamousforhisdisputewith,andevidentadvantageover,thelateBishopofBangorinthetimeofhisgovernment;thedisputebetweentheUniversityandtheMasterofTrinityCollegehasbeenbroughttoaheadsoastoemploythepensofthelearnedonbothsides,butatlastprosecutedinajudicialwaysoastodepriveDr。Bentleyofallhisdignitiesandofficesintheuniversity;butthedoctorflyingtotheroyalprotection,theuniversityisunderawritofmandamus,toshowcausewhytheydonotrestorethedoctoragain,towhichitseemstheydemur,andthatdemurhasnot,thatwehear,beenargued,atleastwhenthesesheetsweresenttothepress。Whatwillbetheissuetimemustshow。
FromCambridgetheroadliesnorth-westontheedgeofthefenstoHuntingdon,whereitjoinsthegreatnorthroad。Onthissideitisallanagreeablecorncountryasabove,adornedwithseveralseatsofgentlemen;butthechiefisthenoblehouse,seat,ormansionofWimpleorWimpleHall,formerlybuiltatavastexpensebythelateEarlofRadnor,adornedwithallthenaturalbeautiesofsituation,andtowhichwasaddedallthemostexquisitecontrivanceswhichthebestheadscouldinventtomakeitartificiallyaswellasnaturallypleasant。
However,thefateoftheRadnorfamilysodirecting,itwasboughtwiththewholeestateaboutitbythelateDukeofNewcastle,inapartitionofwhoseimmenseestateitfelltotheRightHonourabletheLordHarley,sonandheir-apparentofthepresentEarlofOxfordandMortimer,inrightoftheLadyHarrietCavendish,onlydaughterofthesaidDukeofNewcastle,whoismarriedtohislordship,andbroughthimthisestateandmanyother,sufficienttodenominatehertherichestheiressinGreatBritain。
Herehislordshipresides,andhasalreadysorecommendedhimselftothiscountyastobebyagreatmajoritychosenKnightoftheShireforthecountyofCambridge。
FromCambridge,mydesignobligingme,andthedirectroadinpartconcurring,IcamebackthroughthewestpartofthecountyofEssex,andatSaffronWaldenIsawtheruinsoftheoncelargestandmostmagnificentpileinallthispartofEngland-viz。,AudleyEnd-builtby,anddecayingwith,thenobleDukesandEarlsofSuffolk。
AlittlenorthofthispartofthecountryrisestheRiverStour,whichforacourseoffiftymilesormorepartsthetwocountiesofSuffolkandEssex,passingthroughornearHaveril,Clare,Cavendish,Halsted,Sudbury,Bowers,Nayland,Stretford,Dedham,Manningtree,andintotheseaatHarwich,assistingbyitswaterstomakeoneofthebestharboursforshippingthatisinGreatBritain-ImeanOrwellHavenorHarwich,ofwhichIhavespokenlargelyalready。
AswecameonthissidewesawatadistanceBraintreeandBocking,twotowns,large,rich,andpopulous,andmadesooriginallybythebaytrade,ofwhichIhavespokenatlargeatColchester,andwhichflourishesstillamongthem。
ThemanorofBraintreeIfounddescendedbypurchasetothenameofOlmeus,thesonofaLondonmerchantofthesamename,makinggoodwhatIhadobservedbefore,ofthegreatnumberofsuchwhohavepurchasedestatesinthiscounty。
NearthistownisFelsted,asmallplace,butnotedforafreeschoolofanancientfoundation,formanyyearsunderthemastershipofthelateRev。Mr。Lydiat,andbroughtbyhimtothemeridianofitsreputation。Itisnowsupplied,andthatveryworthily,bytheRev。Mr。Hutchins。
NeartothisisthePrioryofLees,adeliciousseatofthelateDukesofManchester,butsoldbythepresentDuketotheDuchessDowagerofBucks,hisGracetheDukeofManchesterremovingtohisyetfinerseatofKimboltoninNorthamptonshire,theancientmansionofthefamily。FromhencekeepingtheLondonRoadIcametoChelmsford,mentionedbefore,andIngerstone,fivemileswest,whichImentionagain,becauseintheparishchurchofthistownaretobeseentheancientmonumentsofthenoblefamilyofPetre,whoseseatandlargeestatelieintheneighbourhood,andwhosewholefamily,byaconstantseriesofbeneficentactionstothepoor,andbountyuponallcharitableoccasions,havegainedanaffectionateesteemthroughallthatpartofthecountrysuchasnoprejudiceofreligioncouldwearout,orperhapsevermay;andI
mustconfess,Ithink,neednot,forgoodandgreatactionscommandourrespect,lettheopinionsofthepersonsbeotherwisewhattheywill。
Fromhencewecrossedthecountrytothegreatforest,calledEppingForest,reachingalmosttoLondon。ThecountryonthatsideofEssexiscalledtheRoodings,Isuppose,becausetherearenolessthantentownsalmosttogether,calledbythenameofRoding,andisfamousforgoodland,goodmalt,anddirtyroads;thelatterindeedinthewinterarescarcepassableforhorseorman。InthemidstofthisweseeChippingOnger,HatfieldBroadOak,Epping,andmanyforesttowns,famedasIhavesaidforhusbandryandgoodmalt,butofnoothernote。OnthesouthsideofthecountyisWalthamAbbey;theruinsoftheabbeyremain,andthoughantiquityisnotmyproperbusiness,IcouldnotbutobservethatKingHarold,slaininthegreatbattleinSussexagainstWilliamtheConqueror,liesburiedhere;hisbodybeingbeggedbyhismother,theConquerorallowedittobecarriedhither;butnomonumentwas,asIcanfind,builtforhim,onlyaflatgravestone,onwhichwasengravenHAROLDINFELIX。
FromhenceIcameovertheforestagain-thatistosay,overthelowerorwesternpartofit,whereitisspangledwithfinevillages,andthesevillagesfilledwithfineseats,mostofthembuiltbythecitizensofLondon,asIobservedbefore,butthelustreofthemseemstobeentirelyswallowedupinthemagnificentpalaceoftheLordCastlemain,whosefather,SirJosiahChild,asitwere,prepareditinhislifeforthedesignofhisson,thoughaltogetherunforeseen,byaddingtotheadvantageofitssituationinnumerablerowsoftrees,plantedincuriousorderforavenuesandvistastothehouse,allleadinguptotheplacewheretheoldhousestood,astoacentre。
Intheplaceadjoining,hislordship,whilehewasyetSirRichardChildonly,andsomeyearsbeforehebeganthefoundationofhisnewhouse,laidoutthemostdelicious,aswellasmostspacious,piecesofgroundforgardensthatistobeseeninallthispartofEngland。Thegreenhouseisanexcellentbuilding,fittoentertainaprince;itisfurnishedwithstovesandartificialplacesforheatfromanapartmentinwhichisabagnioandotherconveniences,whichrenderitbothusefulandpleasant。Andthesegardenshavebeensothejustadmirationoftheworld,thatithasbeenthegeneraldiversionofthecitizenstogoouttoseethem,tillthecrowdsgrewtoogreat,andhislordshipwasobligedtorestrainhisservantsfromshowingthem,exceptononeortwodaysinaweekonly。
Thehouseisbuiltsincethesegardenshavebeenfinished。ThebuildingisallofPortlandstoneinthefront,whichmakesitlookextremelygloriousandmagnificentatadistance,itbeingtheparticularpropertyofthatstoneexceptinthestreetsofLondon,whereitistaintedandtingedwiththesmokeofthecitytogrowwhiterandwhiterthelongeritstandsintheopenair。
Asthefrontofthehouseopenstoalongrowoftrees,reachingtothegreatroadatLeightonstone,sothebackface,orfrontifthatbeproper,respectsthegardens,and,withaneasydescent,landsyouupontheterrace,fromwhenceisamostbeautifulprospecttotheriver,whichisallformedintocanalsandopeningstoanswertheviewsfromaboveandbeyondtheriver;thewalksandwildernessesgoontosuchadistance,andinsuchamannerupthehill,astheybeforewentdown,thatthesightislostinthewoodsadjoining,anditlooksalllikeoneplantedgardenasfarastheeyecansee。
Ishallcoverasmuchaspossiblethemelancholypartofastorywhichtouchestoosensiblymany,ifnotmost,ofthegreatandflourishingfamiliesinEngland。Pityandmatterofgriefisittothinkthatfamilies,byestateabletoappearinsuchagloriouspostureasthis,shouldeverbevulnerablebysomeanadisasterasthatofstock-jobbing。Butthegeneralinfatuationofthedayisapleaforit,sothatmenarenotnowblamedonthataccount。SouthSeawasageneralpossession,andifmyLordCastlemainwaswoundedbythatarrowshotinthedarkitwasamisfortune。Butitissomuchahappinessthatitwasnotamortalwound,asitwastosomemenwhoonceseemedasmuchoutofthereachofit。Andthatblow,beitwhatitwill,isnotrememberedforjoyoftheescape,forweseethisnoblefamily,byprudenceandmanagement,riseoutofallthatcloud,ifitmaybeallowedsuchaname,andshininginthesamefulllustreasbefore。
Thiscannotbesaidofsomeotherfamiliesinthiscounty,whosefineparksandnew-builtpalacesarefallenunderforfeituresandalienationsbythemisfortunesofthetimesandbytheruinoftheirmasters'fortunesinthatSouthSeadeluge。
ButIdesiretothrowaveiloverthesethingsastheycomeinmyway;itisenoughthatwewriteuponthem,aswaswrittenuponKingHarold'stombatWalthamAbbey,INFELIX,andletalltherestsleepamongthingsthatarethefittesttobeforgotten。
FrommyLordCastlemain's,houseandtherestofthefinedwellingsonthatsideoftheforest,forthereareseveralverygoodhousesatWanstead,onlythattheyseemallswallowedupinthelustreofhislordship'spalace,Isay,fromthence,Iwentsouth,towardsthegreatroadoverthatpartoftheforestcalledtheFlats,whereweseeaverybeautifulbutretiredandruralseatofMr。
Lethulier's,eldestsonofthelateSirJohnLethulier,ofLusum,inKent,ofwhosefamilyIshallspeakwhenIcomeonthatside。
BythisturnIcamenecessarilyontoStratford,whereIsetout。
Andthushavingfinishedmyfirstcircuit,Iconcludemyfirstletter,andam,Sir,yourmosthumbleandobedientservant。
APPENDIX。
Whoevertravels,asIdo,overEngland,andwritestheaccountofhisobservations,will,asInotedbefore,alwaysleavesomething,alteringorundertakingbysuchagrowingimprovingnationasthis,orsomethingtodiscoverinanationwheresomuchishid,sufficienttoemploythepensofthosethatcomeafterhim,ortoaddbywayofappendixtowhathehasalreadyobserved。
Thisismycasewithrespecttotheparticularswhichfollow:1
Sincethesesheetswereinthepress,anoblepalaceofMr。
Walpole's,atpresentFirstCommissioneroftheTreasury,Privy-
counsellor,etc。,toKingGeorge,is,asitwere,risenoutoftheruinsoftheancientseatofthefamilyofWalpole,atHoughton,abouteightmilesdistantfromLynn,andonthenorthcoastofNorfolk,nearthesea。
Asthehouseisnotyetfinished,andwhenIpassedbyitwasbutnewlydesigned,itcannotbeexpectedthatIshouldbeabletogiveaparticulardescriptionofwhatitwillbe。Icandolittlemorethanmentionthatitappearsalreadytobeexceedinglymagnificent,andsuitabletothegeniusofthegreatfounder。
Butafriendofmine,wholivesinthatcounty,hassentmethefollowinglines,which,ashesays,aretobeplaceduponthebuilding,whetheronthefriezeofthecornice,orovertheportico,oronwhatpartofthebuilding,ofthatIamnotasyetcertain。Theinscriptionisasfollows,viz。:-
"H。M。F。
"FundamenutessemDomusInAgroNataliExtruendae,RobertusilleWalpoleQuemnullanescietPosteritas:
FaxitDues。
"PostquamMaturusAnnisDominus。
DiuLaetatusfueritabsolutaIncolumemtueanturIncolames。
AdSummamomniumDiemEtnatinatorumetquinascenturabillis。
HicmePosuit。"
Asecondthingpropertobeaddedhere,bywayofappendix,relatestowhatIhavementionedofthePortofLondon,beingboundedbytheNazeontheEssexshore,andtheNorthForelandontheKentishshore,whichsomepeople,guidedbythepresentusageoftheCustomHouse,maypretendisnotso,toanswersuchobjectors。Thetruestateofthatcasestandsthus:
"1TheclausetakenfromtheActofParliamentestablishingtheextentofthePortofLondon,andpublishedinsomeofthebooksofrates,isthis:
"'TopreventallfuturedifferencesanddisputestouchingtheextentandlimitsofthePortofLondon,thesaidportisdeclaredtoextend,andbeaccountedfromthepromontoryorpointcalledtheNorthForelandintheIsleofThanet,andfromthencenorthwardinarightlinetothepointcalledtheNaze,beyondtheGunfleetuponthecoastofEssex,andsocontinuedwestwardthroughouttheriverThames,andtheseveralchannels,streams,andriversfallingintoit,toLondonBridge,savingtheusualandknownrights,liberties,andprivilegesoftheportsofSandwichandIpswich,andeitherofthem,andtheknownmembersthereof,andofthecustomers,comptrollers,searchers,andtheirdeputies,ofandwithinthesaidportsofSandwichandIpswichandtheseveralcreeks,harbours,andhavenstothem,oreitherofthem,respectivelybelonging,withinthecountiesofKentandEssex。'
"II。Notwithstandingwhatisabovewritten,thePortofLondon,asinusesincethesaidorder,isunderstoodtoreachnofartherthanGravesendinKentandTilburyPointinEssex,andtheportsofRochester,Milton,andFavershambelongtotheportofSandwich。
"InlikemannertheportsofHarwich,Colchester,Wivenhoe,Malden,Leigh,etc。,aresaidtobemembersoftheportofIpswich。"
ThisobservationmaysufficeforwhatisneedfultobesaiduponthesamesubjectwhenImaycometospeakoftheportofSandwichanditsmembersandtheirprivilegeswithrespecttoRochester,Milton,Faversham,etc。,inmycircuitthroughthecountyofKent。