butthisfactevidentlyloosenedthecordsofthefather’sheart，andduringmystayatVegahewasdevotedtome;
givingmeinformationofthegreatestvalueregardingthepeople，theirhabits，theirdiseases，andthelike，muchofwhich，uptothatmoment，thecommissionanditssubordinateshadvainlyendeavoredtosecure。
AndhereIrecallonethingwhichstruckmeassignificant。ThisasceticFrenchpriestwasverysevereincondemnationoftheoldSpanishpriesthoodoftheisland。
WhenIaskedhimregardingthemoralsofthepeopleheanswered，``Howcanyouexpectgoodmoralsinthemwhentheirpastorssetsuchbadexamples？’’ItwasevidentthatthechurchauthoritiesatRomewereofhisopinion;forinnearlyeverytownIfoundnotonlyajolly，kindly，easy—goingoldSpanishpadre，surroundedby``nephews’’and``nieces，’’butamoreaustereecclesiasticrecentlyarrivedfromFranceorItaly。
Intheimpressionsmadeuponmebythislongandtediousjourneyacrosstheisland，pleasureandpainwereconstantlymingled。Ononehandwasthewonderfulbeautyofthescenery，theluxurianceofthevegetation，andthebracingwarmthoftheclimate，whiletheUnitedStatesweregoingthroughawintermorethanusuallybitter。
But，ontheotherhand，thewholeconditionofthecountryseemedtoindicatethattheearlySpanishrulershadleftacurseuponitfromwhichithadneverrecovered。
Itsinhabitants，inrevolutionafterrevolution，haddestroyedallindustryandindustrialappliances，andhadvirtuallyeatenupeachother;generationaftergenerationhadthusbeenalmostentirelydestroyed。
Finally，afternearlyafortnightofclamberingovermountains，pushingthroughtropicalthickets，fordingstreams，andnegotiatinginpalmhuts，weapproachedthesea;andsuddenly，onthenorthsideoftheisland，atthetopofthemountainbackofPuertoPlata，welookedfardownuponitsbeautifulharbor，inthemidstofwhich，likeaflyuponamirror，layourtrimlittlefrigateNantasket。
Thevice—presidentoftherepublic，surroundedbytherepresentativesofthecity，havingwelcomeduswiththeusualspeeches，wepushedforwardtothevice—presidentialvilla，whereIwastobelodged。
Havingnootherdresswithmethanmytraveler’soutfit，ofwhichthemainfeatureswereaflamingredflannelshirt，aponcho，andasombrero，andhavingbeeninvitedtodinethateveningatthehouseofmyhost，withthevariousconsulsandotherleadersoftheplace，Iorderedtwoofmymentohurrydownthemountain，andouttothefrigate，tobringinmyleathertrunkcontainingacostumemoreworthyoftheexpectedceremony;andhardlywerewecomfortablyestablishedundertheroofofthevice—president，whentwosailorscamein，bringingthepreciousburden。
Nowcameacatastrophe。Turningthekey，Inoticedthatthebrassfittingsofthelockwerecoveredwithverdigris，and，asthetrunkopened，Ishrankbackinhorror。Itwasfilled，apparently，withamassofmossywhite—and—
greenmoldfromwhichcockroachesofenormoussizedartedinalldirections。
Hastilypullingdownthecover，Icalledacouncilofwar;themainpersonagesinitbeingmyprivatesecretary，ProfessorCrane，sinceactingpresidentofCornellUniversity，andsundryofthemoreimportantmenintheexpedition。TotheseIexplainedthesituation。Itseemedbadenoughtoloseallmeansofpresentingasuitableappearanceattheapproachingfestivity，butthiswasnothingcomparedwiththeideathatIhadrequitedthehospitalityofmyhostbyspreadingthroughhishousethishideousentomologicalcollection。
ButasIexposedthislatterfeatureofthesituation，I
noticedasmilecomingoverthefacesofmyDominicanattendants，andpresentlyoneofthemremarkedthatthecockroachesIhadbroughtwouldfindplentyofcompanions;
thatthehousewasdoubtlessalreadyfullofthem。
Thiswasagreatrelieftomyconscience。Thetrunkwasremoved，andpresentlytheclothing，inwhichIwastobearrayedfortheevening，wasbroughtin。Itseemedinafearfulcondition，but，curiouslyenough，whileboots，shoes，and，aboveall，apackageofwhiteglovescarefullyreservedforgrandceremonies，hadbeennearlydevoured，thegarmentsofvarioussortshadescapedfairlywell。
Thenextthinginorderbeingthepreparationofmyapparelforuse，themenproceededfirsttodelugeitwithcarbolicacid;andthen，afterdryingitonthebalconiesinfrontofthevice—president’shouse，tomitigatetheinvinciblecarbolicodorbycopiousdrenchingsofFloridawater。Alldaylongtheywerethusatworkmakingreadyfortheeveningceremony。Induetimeitarrived;
and，finally，afterasumptuousentertainment，I
stoodbeforetheassembledconsulsandothermagnates。
Probablynooneofthemremembersawordofmydiscourse;butdoubtlesseverysurvivorwillagreethatnospeaker，beforeorsince，evermadetohimanappealofsuchpungency。Ipervadedthewholeatmosphereoftheplace;indeed，thetownitselfseemedtome，aslongasI
remainedinit，toreekofthatstrangemixtureofcarbolicacidandFloridawater;andassoonaspossibleafterreachingtheship，thecontentsofthetrunkwerethrownoverboard，andlifebecamelessaburden。
HavingbeendulyescortedtotheNantasket，andreceivedheartilybyCommanderMcCook，Iwasassignedhisowncabin，butsoonthoughtitexpedienttogetoutofitandsleepondeck。Thefactwasthatthecompanionsofmycockroacheshadpossessionoftheship，and，toallappearance，theirheadquarterswereinthecaptain’sroom。Ithereforeorderedmybedondeck;and，thoughitwasFebruary，passedtwodelightfulnightsinthatbalmyatmosphereofthetropicalseaswhileweskirtedthenorthsideoftheislanduntil，atPort—au—Prince，I
rejoinedtheothercommissioners，whohadcomeintheTennesseealongthesoutherncoast。
AttheHaitiancapitalourcommissionhadinterviewswiththepresident，hiscabinet，andothers，andafterwardwehadtimetolookaboutus。Fewthingscouldbemoredispiriting。Thecityhadbeenburnedagainandagain，andtherehadarisenatangleofstreetsdisplayingeverysortofcheapabsurdityinarchitecture。Theeffectsoftherecentrevolution——thelatestinalongseriesofcivicconvulsions，cruelandsterile——wereevidentonallsides。OntheslopeabovethecityhadstoodtheformerresidenceoftheFrenchgovernor:ithadbeenabeautifulpalace，and，beingsofarfromthesea，had，untiltherecentrevolution，escapedunharmed;butduringthatlasteffortasquadofmiscreants，howlingthepraisesofliberty，havinggotpossessionofasmallarmedvesselintheharborandfounduponitarifledcannonoflongrange，hadexercisedtheirmonkeyishpassionfordestructionbywantonlyfiringuponthisbeautifulstructure。Itnowlayinruins。Initsmainstaircaseanironringwaspointedouttous，andweweregiventhefollowingchronicle。
DuringtherecentrevolutionthefugitivePresidentSalnavehadbeencaptured，aleathernthonghadbeenrudelydrawnthroughagashinhishand，and，attachedbythistoacavalryman，hehadbeendraggedupthehilltothepalace，throughthecrowdwhichhadbutrecentlyhurrahedforhim，butwhichnowjeeredandpeltedhim。
Arrivinguponthesceneofhisformerglory，hewasattachedbythethongtothisironringandshot。
Oppositethepalacewastheruinofamausoleum，andinthestreetwerescatteredfragmentsofmarblesarcophagibeautifullysculptured:thesehadcontainedthebodiesofformerrulers，buttherevolutionistsofHaiti，imitatingthoseof1793inFrance，asapesimitatemen，hadtornthecorpsesoutofthemandhadthenscatteredthese，withthefragmentsoftheirmonuments，throughthestreets。
Inthemarketsofthecitywehadampleexperienceoftheadvantagearisingfromunlimitedpapermoney。
Successivegovernmentshadkeptthemselvesafloatbynewissuesofcurrency，untilitspurchasingpowerwasreducedalmosttonothing。Preposteroussumsweredemandedforthesimplestarticles:hundredsofdollarsforabasketoffruit，andthousandsofdollarsforastrawhat。
WithusasoneofoursecretarieswasFrederickDouglass，thegiftedsonofaneminentVirginianandaslavewoman，——oneofthetwoorthreemosttalentedmenofcolorI
haveeverknown。Uptothistimehehadcherishedmanyhopesthathisrace，ifsetfree，wouldimprove;butitwasevidentthatthisexperienceinSantoDomingodiscouragedanddepressedhim。Hesaidtooneofus，``Ifthisistheoutcomeofself—governmentbymyrace，Heavenhelpus！’’
AnothercuriousexamplebearingonthesamesubjectwasfurnishedusinJamaica，whitherwewentafterleav—
ingHaiti。Ourwishwastoconsult，onourwayhome，theformerpresidentoftheHaitianrepublic，Geffrard，——
whowasthenlivinginexilenearKingston。Wefoundhiminabeautifulapartment，elegantlyfurnished;andineverywayheseemedsuperiortotheofficialswhomwehadmetatPort—au—Prince。Hewasalightmulatto，intelligent，quiet，dignified，andabletostatehisviewswithoutundueemphasis。Hiswifewasveryagreeable，andhisdaughter，thoughclearlyofamelancholictemperament，oneofthemostbeautifulyoungwomenIhaveeverseen。Thereasonforhermelancholywasevidenttoanyonewhoknewherfather’shistory。HehadgonethroughmanypoliticalstormsbeforehehadfledfromHaiti，andinoneofthesehisenemieshadfiredthroughthewindowsofhishouseandkilledhisotherdaughter。
Hecalmlydiscussedwithustheconditionoftheisland，andevidentlybelievedthattheonlywaytosaveitfromutterbarbarismwastoputitunderthecontrolofsomecivilizedpower。
Interestingaswerehisopinions，heandhisfamily，aswesawthemintheirdailylife，werestillmoreso。Itwasarevelationtousallofwhatthecoloredracemightbecomeinalandwhereitisundernosocialban。ForgenerationsheandhishadbeentheequalsofthebestpeopletheyhadmetinFranceandinHaiti;theyhadbeenguestsatthedinnersofministersandatthesoiresofsavantsintheFrenchcapital;therewasnothingaboutthemofthatdeprecatorysortwhichoneseessoconstantlyinmenandwomenwithAfricanbloodintheirveinsinlandswheretheirracehasrecentlybeenheldinservitude。
AndhereImayagaincitethecaseofPresidentBaez——
amantowhomitprobablyneveroccurredthathewasnottheequalsociallyofthebestmenhemet，andwhoinanyEuropeancountrywouldbeatonceregardedasamanofmark，andwelcomedatanygatheringofnotables。
Amongourexcursions，whileinJamaica，wasonetoSpanishTown，theresidenceoftheBritishgovernor。
Inthedrawing—roomofHisExcellency’swifetherewasshownusonerathercuriousdetail。Notlongbeforeourvisit，thelegislaturehadbeenabolishedandtheislandhadbeenmadeacrowncolonyruledbyaroyalgovernorandcouncil;thereforeitwasthat，therebeingnofurtheruseforit，thegorgeouschairof``Mr。Speaker，’’ahugeconstructionapparentlyofcarvedoak，hadbeentransferredtoherladyship’sdrawing—room，andwewereinformedthatinthisshereceivedherguests。
FromKingstonwecametoKeyWest，andfromthatpointtoCharleston，where，asourfrigatewastoolargetocrossthebar，weweretakenoff，andthencereachedWashingtonbyrail。
OnedetailregardingthoselatterdaysofourcommissionisperhapsworthyofrecordasthrowinglightonaseamysideofAmericanlife。Fromfirsttolastwehadshowneverypossiblecivilitytotherepresentativesofthepresswhohadaccompaniedusonthefrigate，constantlytakingthemwithusinSantoDomingoandelsewhere，andgivingthemeveryfacilityforcollectinginformation。
ButfromtimetotimethingsoccurredwhichthrewanewandsomewhatunpleasantlightonthewaymisinformationisliberallypurveyedtotheAmericanpublic。Onedayoneofthesegentlemen，therepresentativeofaleadingNewYorkdaily，talkingwithmeofthesortofnewshispaperrequired，said，``Themanagersofourpaperdon’tcareforseriousinformation，suchasparticularsregardingthecountrywevisit，itsinhabitants，etc。，etc。;whattheywant，aboveall，issomethingofapersonalnature，suchasaquarrelorsquabble，andwhenoneoccurstheyexpectustomakethemostofit。’’
IthoughtnomoreofthisuntilIarrivedatPort—au—
Prince，whereIfoundthatthisgentlemanhadsuddenlytakenthemail—steamerforNewYorkonthepleaofurgentbusiness。Therealcauseofhisdeparturewassoonapparent。Hisletterstothepaperheservednowbegantocomebacktous，anditwasfoundthathehadexercisedhisimaginationvigorously。Hehadpresentedamassofsensationalinventions，buthisgeniushadbeenespeciallyexercisedintrumpingupquarrelswhichhadnevertakenplace;hismasterpiecebeinganaccountofabitterstrugglebetweenSenatorWadeandmyself。Asamatteroffact，therehadneverbeenbetweenustheslightestill—feeling;theoldsenatorhadbeenlikeafathertomefromfirsttolast。
Thesamesortofthingwasdonebysundryotherpressprostitutes，bothduringourstayintheWestIndiesandatWashington;butIamhappytosaythatseveralofthecorrespondentsweremenwhotooktheirdutiesseriously，andreallyrenderedaservicetotheAmericanpublicbygivinginformationworthhaving。
OurjourneyfromCharlestontoWashingtonhadoneepisodeperhapsworthyofrecording，asshowingapeculiarityoflocalfeelingatthattime。Throughallthelongdaywehadlittleornothingtoeat，andlookedforwardravenouslytothedinneronboardthePotomacsteamer。
Butonreachingitandenteringthedining—room，wefoundthatoursecretary，Mr。FrederickDouglass，wasabsolutelyrefusedadmittance。He，amanwhohaddinedwiththeforemoststatesmenandscholarsofourNorthernStatesandofEurope，——amanwhobyhisdignity，ability，andelegantmannerswasfittohonoranycompany，——was，onaccountofhislighttingeofAfricanblood，notthoughtfittositatmeatwiththemotleycrowdonaPotomacsteamer。Thisbeingthecase，Dr。Howeandmyselfdeclinedtodine，andsoreachedWashington，aboutmidnight，almoststarving，thusexperiencing，atalowprice，thepangsandgloriesofmartyrdom。
Onediscoverymadebythecommissiononitsreturnoughttobementionedhere，forthetruthofhistory。Mr。
Sumner，inhisspeechesbeforetheSenate，hadmadeastrongpointbycontrastingtheconductoftheUnitedStateswiththatofSpaintowardSantoDomingo。HehadinsistedthattheconductofSpainhadbeenfarmorehonorablethanthatoftheUnitedStates;thatSpainhadbroughtnopressuretobearupontheDominicanrepublic;
thatwhenSantoDomingohadacceptedSpanishrule，someyearsbefore，ithaddonesoofitsownfreewill;andthat``notasingleSpanishvesselwastheninitswaters，norasingleSpanishsailoruponitssoil。’’Ontheotherhand，heinsistedthattheconductoftheUnitedStateshadbeentheveryoppositeofthis;thatithadbroughtpressuretobearuponthelittleislandrepublic;andthatwhenthedecisionwasmadeinfavorofourcountry，therewereAmericanshipsoffthecoastandAmericansoldiersupontheisland。Toprovethisstatement，hereadfromaspeechoftheSpanishprimeministerpublishedintheofficialpaperoftheSpanishgovernmentatMadrid。Toourgreatsurprise，wefound，onarrivingattheisland，thatthisstatementwasnotcorrect;thatwhentheactioninfavorofannexationtoSpaintookplace，SpanishshipswereuponthecoastandSpanishsoldiersupontheisland;andthattherehadbeenfarmoreappearanceofpressureatthattimethanafterward，whenthelittlerepublicsoughtadmissiontotheAmericanUnion。Oneofourfirstefforts，therefore，onreturning，wastofindacopyofthisofficialpaper，forthepurposeofdiscoveringhowitwasthattheleaderoftheSpanishministryhadutteredsograveanuntruth。TheSpanishnewspaperwasmissingfromthelibraryofCongress;
butatlastDr。Howe，thethirdcommissioner，alife—
longanddeeplyattachedfriendofMr。Sumner，founditinthelibraryofthesenator。ThepassagewhichMr。
Sumnerhadquotedwascarefullymarked;itwassimplytotheeffectthatwhentheFIRSTproceedingslookingtowardannexationtoSpainwereinitiated，therewerenoSpanishshipsinthosewaters，norSpanishsoldiersonshore。Thiswas，however，equallytrueoftheUnitedStates;forwhenproceedingswerebeguninSantoDomingolookingtoannexation，therewasnotanAmericanshipoffthecoast，noranAmericansoldierontheisland。
Butthepainfulthinginthematterwasthat，hadMrSumnerreadthesentenceimmediatelyfollowingthatwhichhequoted，itwouldhaveshownsimplyanddistinctlythathiscontentionwasunfounded;that，atthetimewhentheannexationproceedingsWEREformallyinitiatedandaccomplished，therewereSpanishshipsoffthoseshoresandSpanishsoldiersontheisland。
IrecallvividlythedeepregretexpressedatthetimebyDr。HowethathisfriendSenatorSumnerhadbeensobitterinhisoppositiontotheadministrationthathehadquotedthefirstpartoftheSpanishminister’sspeechandsuppressedthesecondpart。ItwasclearthatifMr。SumnerhadreadthewholepassagetotheSenateitwouldhaveshownthattheconductoftheUnitedStateshadnotbeenlessmagnanimousthanthatofSpaininthematter，andthatnoargumentwhateveragainsttheadministrationcouldbefoundeduponitsactioninsendingshipsandtroopstotheisland。
Indrawingupourreportafterourarrival，anamicabledifferenceofopinionshoweditself。SenatorWade，beinga``manifest—destiny’’man，wisheditexpresslytorecommendannexation;Dr。Howe，inhisanxietytoraisethestatusofthecoloredrace，tookasimilarview;butI
pointedouttothemthefactthatCongresshadasked，notforarecommendation，butforfacts;thattogivethemadviceundersuchcircumstanceswastoexposeourselvestoasnub，andcouldbringnogoodtoanycausewhichanyofusmightwishtoserve;andIstatedthatifthegeneralreportcontainedrecommendations，Imustbeallowedtopresentonesimplycontainingfacts。
Theresultwasthatweunitedinthedocumentpresented，whichisasimplestatementoffacts，andwhich，asIbelieve，remainstothisdaythebestgeneralaccountoftheresourcesofSantoDomingo。
TheresultofourreportwaswhatIhadexpected。TheSpanishpartofthatislandisofgreatvaluefromanagriculturalandprobablyfromaminingpointofview。Itsvalleysbeingsweptbythetrade—winds，itsmountainslopesoffertoawhitepopulationsummerretreatslikethoseaffordedbysimilarsituationstotheBritishoccupantsofIndia。Inwinteritmightalsoserveasavaluablesanatorium。IrememberwelltheanswermadetomebyamanfromMaine，whohadbroughthisfamilytotheneighborhoodofSamanaBayinordertoescapetherigorsoftheNewEnglandwinter。Onmyaskinghimaboutthediseasesprevalentinhisneighborhood，hesaidthathisentirehouseholdhadgonethroughalightacclimatingfever，butheadded:``Wehaveallgotthroughitwithoutharm;andonlookingthewholematterover，Iampersuadedthat，ifyouweretodividethepeopleofanyNewEnglandStateintotwohalves，leavingonehalfathomeandsendingtheotherhalfhere，therewouldintenyearsbefewerdeathsinthehalfsenthere，fromallthediseasesofthiscountry，thaninthehalfleftinNewEngland，fromconsumptionalone。’’
AspecialelementinthequestionofannexationwasthevalueoftheharborofSamanaincontrollingoneofthegreatpassagesfromEuropetotheIsthmus。Itislargeenoughtoholdanyfleet，isprotectedbyamountain—rangefromthenorthernwinds，iseasilyfortified，andisthenaturaloutletofthelargestandmostfertilevalleyintheislands。Morethanthis，iftheexperimentofannexinganoutlyingpossessionwastobetried，thatwas，perhaps，thebestofopportunities，sincetheresidentpopulationtobeassimilatedwasexceedinglysmall。
ButthepeopleoftheUnitedStates，greatlyastheyhonoredGeneralGrant，andmuchastheyrespectedhisrecommendations，couldnottakehisview。Theyevidentlyfeltthat，withthenewdutiesimposeduponthembythevastnumberofmenrecentlysetfreeandadmittedtosuffrageintheSouth，theyhadquiteenoughtodowithoutassumingtheresponsibilityofgoverninganddevelopingthisnewregionpeopledbyblacksandmulattos;
andasaresultofthisverynaturalfeelingthewholeproposalwasdropped，andwilldoubtlessremaininabeyanceuntiltheexperimentsindealingwithPortoRicoandthePhilippinesshallhaveshownthepeopleoftheUnitedStateswhetherthereisanyplaceforsuchdependenciesunderoursystem。
CHAPTERXXIX
ASCOMMISSIONERTOTHEPARISEXPOSITIONOF1878
Mynextexperiencewasofaquasi—diplomaticsort，inconnectionwiththeParisExpositionof1878，anditneedssomepreface。
DuringtheCentennialExpositionof1876atPhiladelphia，Ihadbeenappointedupontheeducationaljury，and，asthemainpartoftheworkcameduringtheuniversitylongvacation，haddevotedmyselftoit，andhadthusbeenbroughtintorelationswithsomeveryinterestingmen。
Ofthesemaybenamed，attheoutset，theEmperorDomPedroofBrazil。Ifirstsawhiminasomewhatcuriousway。HehadlandedatNewYorkinthemorning，andearlyintheafternoonheappearedwiththeEmpressandtheirgentlemenandladiesinwaitingatBooth’sTheater。
TheattractionwasShakspere’s``HenryV，’’andnosoonerwasheseatedinhisboxthanhehadhisShakspereopenbeforehim。Beinginanorchestrastall，Inaturallyobservedhimfromtimetotime，andatonepassagelightwasthrownuponhisideaofhisdutiesasamonarch。Theplaywasgivenfinely，bythebestAmericancompanyofrecentyears，andhewasdeeplyabsorbedinit。ButpresentlytherecamethewordsofKingHenry——thenotedpassage:
``Andwhathavekings，thatprivateshavenottoo，Saveceremony，savegeneralceremony？
Andwhatartthou，thouidolceremony？’’
WhereupontheEmperorandEmpress，evidentlymovedbythesameimpression，turnedtheirheadsfromthestage，lookedsignificantlyateachother，andhismajestyveryearnestlynoddedtohiswifeseveraltimes，asifthoroughlyassenting。
Thefeelingthusbetrayedwasundoubtedlysincere。Hisreallovewasforscience，literature，andart;butaboveallforscience。Someyearsbefore，atthefoundingofCornellUniversity，Agassizhadshownmeprivatelettersfromhimrevealinghisknowledgeofnaturalhistory，andthesamethirstforknowledgewhichheshowedthenwasevidentnow。Fromdawntillduskhewashardatwork，visitingplacesofinterestandaskingquestionswhich，asvariouseminentauthoritiesbothintheUnitedStatesandFrancehavesinceassuredme，showedthathekepthimselfwellabreastofthemostrecentscientificinvestigations。
Onthefollowingmorningheinvitedmetocalluponhim，andonmydoingso，hesalutedmewithamultitudeofquestionsregardingourschools，colleges，anduniversities，whichIansweredasbestIcould，thoughmanyofthemreallymeritedmoretimethancouldbegivenduringamorninginterview。Hismannerwasbothimpressiveandwinning。Hehadclearlythoughtmuchoneducationalproblems，andnomanengagedineducationalworkcouldfailtobestimulatedbyhisquestionsandcomments。Inhismannertherewasnothingdomineeringorassuming。
Isawhimatvarioustimesafterward，andrememberespeciallyhiskindlyandperfectlydemocraticmanneratasuppergivenbythelateMr。DrexelofPhiladelphia，whenhecameamongus，movingfromgrouptogroup，recognizinghereoneoldfriendandthereanother，anddiscussingwitheachsomematterofvalue。
RepublicanasIam，itiscleartomethathisconstitutionalsovereigntywasagovernmentfarmorefree，liberal，and，indeed，republican，thantheruleofthedemagoguedespotswhoafterwarddrovehimfromhisthroneeverhasbeenoreverwillbe。
AnotherveryinterestingpersonwasaSpanishofficer，DonJuanMarin，whohassinceheldhighcommandsbothinhisowncountryandintheWestIndies。Wewereuponthesamejury，andIcametoadmirehimmuch。Oneday，aswesatinourcommittee—roomdiscussingvarioussubjectsbroughtbeforeus，thereappearedinthestreetleadingtothemainentranceofthegroundsalargebodyofsoldierswithlouddrummingandfifing。Onhisaskingwhattroopsthesewere，IansweredthattheywerethemostnotedofourAmericanmilitiaregiments——theNewYorkSeventh;andonhisexpressingawishtoseethem，webothwalkedoutforthatpurpose。Presentlythegateswerethrownopen，andinmarchedtheregiment，trimandbrisk，bearingalofttheflagoftheUnitedStatesandthestandardoftheStateofNewYork。
Atthemomentwhenthestandardandflagwereabreastofus，ColonelMarin，whowasincivildress，drewhimselfup，removedhishat，andbowedlowwithsimpledignity。
Thegreatcrowd，includingmyself，wereimpressedbythisaction。Ithadneveroccurredtoanyoneoftherestofustoshowsuchatributetotheflagunderwhichsomanygoodandtruemenhadfoughtanddiedforus;and，asoneofthecrowdveryjustlyremarkedafterward，``TheSpaniardcheapenedthewholelotofus。’’Withasingleexception，itwasthefinestexhibitionofmannersIhaveeverseen。[11]
[11]SeethechapteronmyattachshipinRussia。
StillanotherdelegatewasProfessorLevasseur，oftheCollegeofFranceandtheFrenchInstitute。Hisquicknessinascertainingwhatwasofvalueinapolitico—economicalview，andhisdiscussionsofgeographicalmatters，interestedandinstructedallwhohadtodowithhim。
WithhimwasRnMillet，anexampleofthemostattractivequalitiesofaseriousFrenchman——qualitieswhichhavesincebeenrecognizedinhisappointmentsasministerandambassadortoSwedenandtoTunis。BoththesegentlemenafterwardmademevisitsatCornellwhichIgreatlyenjoyed。
Atthistime，too，Imadeafriendshipwhichbecameprecioustome——thatofGardnerHubbard，oneofthebest，truest，andmostcapablemen，inwhateverheundertook，thatIhaveeverseen。Thematterwhichinterestedhimthenhassinceinterestedtheworld。Hisson—in—lawMr。AlexanderGrahamBell，wasexhibitingwhatappearedtobeatoy，——atoywhichononeoccasionheshowedtoDomPedroandtoothersofus，andwhichenabledustohearinoneofthebuildingsoftheexpositionaviolinplayedinanotherbuilding。Itwasregardedasaninterestingplaything，andnothingmore。Acontrollingrightinitsusemighthavebeenboughtforaverymoderatesum——yetitwasthebeginningofthetelephone！
Inconnectionwiththeseandotherinterestingmen，I
haddevotedmyselftotheeducationalexhibitsoftheexposition;andtheresultwasthat，duringthefollowingyear，IwasappointedbytheGovernoroftheStateofNewYorkoneoftwohonorarycommissionerstotheParisExposition;theotherbeingMr。Morton，afterwardMinistertoFrance，Vice—PresidentoftheUnitedStates，andGovernoroftheStateofNewYork。
Iwasnotinclined，atfirst，totakemyappointmentveryseriously，butwenttoParissimplytovisittheexposition，hopingthatmyhonoraryfunctionwouldgivemegoodopportunities。ButonarrivingIfoundthecommissioner—
generaloftheUnitedStates，GovernorMcCormick，hardpressedbyhisduties，andlookingaboutforhelp。Alargenumberofregularcommissionershadbeenappointed，butveryfewofthemwereoftheslightestuse。HardlyoneofthemcouldspeakFrench，andveryfewofthemreallytookanyinterestinthedutiesassignedthem。Themainexception，averynobleone，wasmyoldfriendPresidentBarnardofColumbiaCollege，andhehadnotyetarrived。
Underthesecircumstances，IyieldedtotheearnestrequestofGovernorMcCormickandthrewmyselfheartilyintotheworkofmakingourpartoftheexpositionasuccess。
TheAmericanrepresentationattheViennaExpositionafewyearsbeforehadresultedinascandalwhichhadresoundedthroughEurope，andthisscandalhadarisenfromthefactthatasubordinate，whohadgainedtheconfidenceofourexcellentcommissioner—generalatthatpost，hadbeencharged，andtoallappearancejustly，withreceivingmoneyforassigningprivilegestobar—keepersandcaterers。Theresultwasthatthecommissioner—generalwascruellywounded，andthatfinallyheandhisassociateswereignominiouslyremoved，andtheAmericanministertoAustriaputinhisplaceuntilanewcommissioncouldbeformed。OfcourseeverynewspaperinEuropehostiletorepublicanideas，andtheywereverymany，madethemostofthiscatastrophe。OneoftheminViennawasespeciallyvirulent;itcalledattentiontothemodelofanAmericanschool—houseintheexposition，andsaidthat``itshouldbecarefullyobservedaspartofthemachinerywhichtrainsupsuchmercenarywretchesashaverecentlydisgracedhumanityattheexposition。’’
Toavoidscandals，tonegotiatewiththeFrenchcommissionersononeside，andthecrowdofexhibitorsontheother，andespeciallytoseethatinallparticularstherepresentativesofAmericanindustrywerefullyrecognized，wasamatterofmuchdifficulty;buthappilyallturnedoutwell。
Amongthedutiesofmypositionwasmembershipoftheupperjury——thatwhich，inbehalfoftheFrenchRepublic，awardedthehighestprizes。Eachday，ataboutnineinthemorning，wemet，andaremarkablebodyitwas。AtmyrightsatMeissonier，thenthemosteminentofFrenchpainters，andbeyondhimQuintana，theSpanishpoet。OftheformerofthesetwoIpossessacuriousmemento。Hewasveryassiduousinattendanceatoursessions，andthemomenthetookhisseathealwaysbegandrawing，hismaterialsbeingtheblockofletter—paperandthepencils，pens，andinklyingbeforehim。Nomatterwhatwasunderdiscussion，hekeptonwithhisdrawing。Whilehelistened，andevenwhilehetalked，hispencilorpencontinuedmovingoverthepaper。Heseemedtobringeverymorningamassofnewimpressionscaughtduringhiswalktotheexposition，whichhemadehastetotrans—
fertopaper。Sometimesheusedapencil，sometimes，aquillpen，andnotinfrequentlyhewouldplungethefeatherendofthequillintohisinkstandandrapidlyputintohisworkbroaderandblackerstrokes。Assoonashehadfinishedadrawinghegenerallytoreitintobitsandthrewthemuponthefloor，butoccasionallyhewouldfoldthesketchescarefullyandputthemintohispocket。
Thisbeingthecase，noonedaredaskhimforoneofthem。
Butonemorninghispapergaveout，andforlackofithetookupaboxwoodpaper—knifelyingnearandbeganworkonit。Firsthedecoratedthehandleinasortofrococoway，andthendashedoffontheblade，withhispen，averyspiritedhead——abourgeoisphysiognomysomewhatinGavarni’smanner。Butashecouldnottearthepaper—knifeintobits，anddidnotcaretotakeitaway，heleftituponthetable。Thiswasmychance。ImmediatelyafterthesessionIaskedthedirector—generaltoallowmetocarryitoffasasouvenir;heassentedheartily，andsoIpossessapicturewhichIsawbegun，continued，andendedbyoneofthegreatestofFrenchpainters。
AtmyleftwasTresca，directoroftheFrenchNationalConservatoryofArtsandTrades;andnexthim，thesphinxofthecommittee——themostsilentmanIeversawtherectorofthePortugueseUniversityofCoimbra。Duringthethreemonthsofoursessionnooneofuseverheardhimutteraword。OppositewasJulesSimon，eminentasanorator，philosopher，scholar，andmanofletters;
anacademicianwhohadheldpositionsinvariouscabinets，andhadevenbeenprimeministeroftherepublic。
OnonesideofhimwasTulloMassarani，asenatoroftheItaliankingdom，eminentasawriteronthephilosophyofart;ontheother，Boussingault，oneoftheforemostchemistsofthecentury;andnearhim，Wischniegradsky，directoroftheImperialTechnicalInstituteatMoscow，whomI
afterwardcametoknowasministeroffinanceatSt。
Petersburg。Eachafternoonwedevotedtoexaminingthegreaterexhibitswhichweretocomebeforeusincompetitionforthegrandsprixonthefollowingmorning。
Atoneofoursessionsacuriousdifficultyarose。Thecommitteeontheawardoftheseforemostprizesforadvancedworkinelectricitybroughtintheirreport，and，tomyamazement，madenoawardtomycompatriotEdison，whowasthenattheheightofhisreputation。PresentlyTresca，whoreadthereport，andwhoreallylamentedtheomission，whisperedtomethereasonofit。ThroughthenegligenceofpersonsrepresentingEdison，noproperexhibitionofhisinventionshadbeenmadetothecommittee。