OneofthethoroughlywisearrangementsofeveryBritishembassyorlegation——anarrangementwhichhasgoneformuchinGreatBritain’sremarkableseriesofdiplomaticsuccessesthroughouttheworld——istobeseeninhermaintainingateverycapitalafullnumberofsecretariesandattaches，whoservenotonlyinkeepingthecurrentofficeworkinthehighestefficiency，butwhobecome，asitwere，theANTENNAEoftheambassadororminister——additionaleyesandearstoascertainwhatisgoingonamongthosemostinfluentialinpublicaffairs。Everyembassyorlegationthusequippedservesalsoasanactualandpracticaltraining—schoolfortheservice。
VII。Iwouldappointeachattachefromtheranksofthoseespeciallyrecommended，andcertifiedtoinwritingbyleadingauthoritiesinthedepartmenttowhichheisexpectedtosupplyinformation:as，forexample，formilitaryattaches，theWarDepartment;fornavalattaches，theNavyDepartment;forfinancialattaches，theTreasuryDepartment;forcommercialattaches，theDepartmentofCommerce;foragriculturalattaches，theDepartmentofAgriculture;butalwayssubjecttotheapprovaloftheSecretaryofStateasregardssundryqualificationshintedatabove，whichcanbetterbeascertainedbyaninterviewthanbyanexamination。
Iwouldhaveagoodlynumberofattachesofthesevarioussorts，and，inourmoreimportantembassies，onerepresentingeachofthedepartmentsabovenamed。Everyattache，iffitforhisplace，wouldbeworthfarmorethanhiscosttoourgovernment，forhewouldnotonlyaddtotheinfluenceoftheembassyorlegation，butdecidedlytoitsefficiency。Asarule，allofthemcouldalsobemadeofrealuseaftertheconclusionoftheirforeigncareers:somebyreturningtothearmyornavyandbringingtheirknowledgetobearonthosebranchesoftheservice;somebytakingdutyinthevariousdepartmentsatWashington，andaidingtokeepourgovernmentabreastofthebestpracticeinothercountries;somebybecomingprofessorsinuniversitiesandcolleges，andthusaidingtodisseminateusefulinformation;somebybecomingwritersforthepress，thusgivingus，insteadoflooseguessesandhaphazardnotions，informationandsuggestionsbaseduponcloseknowledgeofimportantproblemsandoftheirsolutionincountriesotherthanourownFromthesearrangementsIfeelwarrantedinexpectingaverygreatimprovementinourdiplomaticservice。Thusformed，itwouldbecome，initsmainfeatures，likethemilitaryandnavalservices，and，indeed，initsessentialcharacteristicsastoappointmentandpromotion，likeanywell—organizedmanufacturingorcommercialestablishment。Itwouldabsolutelyrequireascertainedknowledgeandfitnessinthelowestgrades，andwouldgivepromotionforgoodservicefromfirsttolast。Yetitwouldnotbeacast—ironsystem:acertainnumberofmenwhohadshowndecidedfitnessinvarioushighpublicoffices，orinimportantbranchesofpublicorprivatebusiness，couldbeappointed，wheneverthepublicinterestshouldseemtorequireit，asministersresident，ministersplenipotentiary，andambassadors，withouthavinggonethroughexaminationorregularpromotion。
Butthesystemnowproposed，whilethusallowingthefrequentbringinginofnewandcapablemenfrompubliclifeathome，requiresthatalargeproportionofeachgradeabovethatofsecretary，saveaverysmallnumberofdiplomaticagents，commissioners，andthelike，shallbeappointedfromthosethoroughlytrainedfortheservice，andthatallsecretaries，withoutexception，shallbethoroughlytrainedandfitted。Scopewouldthusbegiventotheactivityofbothsortsofmen，andthewholesystemmadesufficientlyelastictomeetallnecessities。
Intheservicethusorganized，theclassofambassadorsandministersfittedbyknowledgeofpublicaffairsathomeforimportantnegotiations，butunacquaintedwithdiplomaticlifeorforeignusagesandlanguages，wouldbegreatlystrengthenedbysecretarieswhohadpassedthrougharegularcourseoftrainingandexperience。AnAmericandiplomaticrepresentativewithoutdiplomaticexperience，onreachinghispost，whetherasambassadororminister，wouldnotfind——aswasoncelargelythecase——secretariesasnewashimselftodiplomaticbusiness，butmenthoroughlypreparedtoaidhiminthemultitudeofminormatters，ignoranceofwhichmightverylikelycripplehimasregardsveryimportantbusiness:secretariessoexperiencedastobeabletosethiminthewayofknowing，atanycourt，whoarethemenofrealpower，andwhomereparasitesandpretenders，whatrelationsaretobecultivatedandwhatavoided，whicharetherealchannelsofinfluence，andwhichmereillusionsleadingnowhither。Ontheotherhand，thesecretariesthoroughlytrainedwoulddoubtless，intheirconversationwithamanfreshfrompublicaffairsathome，learnmanythingsofusetothem。
Thus，too，whatisofgreatimportancethroughouttheentireservice，everyambassador，ministerplenipotentiary，orministerresidentwouldpossess，oreasilycommand，largeexperienceofvariousmeninvariouscountries。Atthesametime，eachwouldbeundermostpowerfulincentivestoperfecthistraining，widenhisacquaintance，anddeepenhisknowledge——incentiveswhich，undertheoldsystem，——whichwemayhopeisnowpassingaway，——withitslackofappointmentforascertainedfitness，lackofpromotionforgoodservice，andlackofanycertaintyoftenure，donotexist。
Thesystemofpromotionformeritthroughouttheserviceisnomereexperiment;thegoodsenseofalltheleadingnationsintheworld，exceptourown，hasadoptedit，anditworkswell。Inourownservicetheoldsystemworksbadly;excellentmen，bothinitshigherandlowergrades，havebeenfrequentlycrippledbywantofproperexperienceoraid。Wehave，indeed，severaladmirablesecretaries——someofthemfittobeambassadorsorministers，butalllaboringunderconditionsthemostdepressing——suchasobtaininnogoodbusinessenterprise。DuringmystayasministeratSt。Petersburg，thesecretaryoflegation，amanideallyfittedforthepost，insistedonresigning。Onmyendeavoringtoretainhim，heansweredasfollows:"IhavebeenovertwelveyearsintheAmericandiplomaticserviceassecretary;Ihaveseenthesecretarieshere，fromallothercountries，steadilypromoteduntilallofthemstillremainingintheserviceareinhigherposts，severalofthemministers，andsomeambassadors。IremainasIwasatthebeginning，withnopromotion，andnoprobabilityofany。Ifeelthat，asarule，mypresentcolleagues，aswellasmostofficialswithwhomIhavetodo，seeingthatIhavenotbeenadvanced，lookuponmeasafailure。Theycannotbemadetounderstandhowamanwhohasservedsolongassecretaryhasbeendeniedpromotionforanyreasonsaveinefficiency。Icannolongersubmittobethuslookeddownupon，andImustresign。"
Whilethushavingasystemofpromotionbaseduponefficiency，I
wouldretainduringgoodbehavior，uptoacertainage，themenwhohavedonethoroughlywellintheservice。Clearly，whenwesecureanadmirableman，——recognizedassuchinallpartsoftheworld，——likeMr。Wheaton，Mr。Bancroft，Mr。CharlesFrancisAdams，Mr。Marsh，Mr。TownsendHarris，Mr。Washburne，Mr。Lowell，Mr。Bayard，Mr。Phelps，andotherswhohavenowpassedaway，nottospeakofmanynowliving，weshouldkeephimathispostaslongasheisefficient，withoutregardtohispolitics。Thisisthecoursetakenverygenerallybyothergreatnations，andespeciallybyoursisterrepublicofGreatBritain（forGreatBritainissimplyarepublicwithamonarchicalfigureheadlingeringalongongoodbehavior）:sheretainsherrepresentativesinthesepositions，andpromotesthemwithoutanyregardtotheirpartyrelations。DuringmyfirstofficialresidenceatBerlin，althoughthehomegovernmentatLondonwasoftheConservativeparty，itretainedattheGermancapital，asambassador，LordAmpthill，aLiberal;and，asfirstsecretary，SirJohnWalsham，aTory。Fromeverypointofview，thelongcontinuanceindiplomaticpositionsofthemostcapablemenwouldbeofgreatadvantagetoourcountry。
But，astheveryfirstthingtobedone，whetherourdiplomaticserviceremainsasatpresentorbeimproved，Iwouldurge，asaconditionprecedenttoanythoroughlygoodservice，thattherebeineachofthegreatercapitalsoftheworldatwhichwehavearepresentative，asuitableembassyorlegationbuildingorapartment，ownedorleasedforatermofyearsbytheAmericanGovernmentEveryothergreatpower，andmanyofthesmallernations，haveprovidedsuchquartersfortheirrepresentatives，andsomeyearsagoPresidentClevelandrecommendedtoCongressasimilarpolicy。UnderthepresentsystemtheheadofanAmericanembassyormissionabroadisatawretcheddisadvantage。Inmanycapitalshefindsitattimesimpossibletosecureaproperfurnishedapartment;and，insome，verydifficulttofindanysuitableapartmentatall，whetherfurnishedorunfurnished。Evenifhefindsproperrooms，theyarefrequentlyinanunfitquarterofthetown，remotefromtheresidencesofhiscolleagues，fromthepublicoffices，fromeverybodyandeverythingrelatedtohiswork。Histermofofficebeinggenerallyshort，heisusuallyconsideredaratherundesirabletenant，andischargedaccordingly。Besidesthis，thefittingandfurnishingofsuchanapartmentisaverygreatburden，bothasregardstroubleandexpense。IhavetwicethusfittedandfurnishedalargeapartmentinBerlin，andineachcasethisrepresentedanexpenditureofmorethanthesalaryforthefirstyear。Withinmyownknowledge，twoAmericanministersabroadhaveimpoverishedtheirfamiliesbyexpendituresofthiskind。Butthisisnottheworst。Themostseriousresultoftheexistingsystemconcernsourcountry。I
haveelsewhereshownhow，inoneveryimportantinternationalquestionatSt。Petersburg，ourmistakenpolicyinthisrespectoncecosttheUnitedStatesasumwhichwouldhaveforeverputthatembassy，and，indeed，manyothersbesides，ontheverybestfooting。IfanAmericanambassadoristoexerciseareallystronginfluencefortheUnitedStatesasagainstothernationshemustbeproperlyprovidedforasregardshisresidenceandsupport，——notprovidedfor，indeed，solargelyassomerepresentativesofothernations;forIneitherproposenordesirethattheAmericanrepresentativeshallimitatethepompofcertainambassadorsofthegreaterEuropeanpowers。Butheoughttobeenabledtoliverespectably，andtodischargehisdutiesefficiently。Thereshouldbe，inthisrespect，whatThomasJeffersonacknowledgedintheDeclarationofIndependenceasaduty，——"adecentregardfortheopinionsofmankind。"Thepresentconditionofthingsisfrequentlyhumiliating。InthegreatercapitalsofEuropethegeneralpublicknowtheBritish，French，Austrian，Italian，andallotherimportantembassiesorlegations，exceptthatofourcountry。TheAmericanembassyorlegationhasnosettledhome，issometimesinonequarterofthetown，sometimesinanother，sometimesalmostinanattic，sometimesalmostinacellar，generallyinadequateinitsaccommodations，andfrequentlyunfortunateinitssurroundings。
BothmyofficialtermsatSt。PetersburgshowedmethatonesecretofthegreatsuccessofBritishdiplomacy，inallpartsoftheworld，isthatespecialpainsaretakenregardingthispoint，andthat，consequently，everyBritishembassyisthecenterofawide—spreadsocialinfluencewhichcountsforverymuchindeedinherpoliticalinfluence。TheUnitedStates，asperhapsthewealthiestnationinexistence，——anationfar—reachingintheexerciseofitsforeignpolicy，withvastandincreasingcommercialandotherintereststhroughouttheworld，——should，inallsubstantialmatters，beequallywellprovidedfor。TakeourrecentrelationswithTurkey。WehaveinsistedonthepaymentofanindemnityforthedestructionofAmericanproperty，andwehaveconstantlyavastnumberofAmericansoftheverybestsort，andespeciallyourmissionaries，whohavetobeprotectedthroughoutthewholeofthatvastempire。EachoftheothergreatpowersprovidesitsrepresentativeatConstantinoplewitharesidencehonorable，suitable，andwithinaproperinclosureforitsprotection;buttheAmericanministerlivesanywhereandeverywhere，——insuchpremises，overshopsandwarehouses，ascanbesecured，——andheisliable，incaseoftroublebetweenthetwonations，tosufferpersonalviolenceandtohavehishousesackedbyaTurkishmob。Noforeignpeople，andleastofallanOrientalpeople，canhighlyrespectadiplomaticrepresentativewho，byhissurroundings，seemsnottoberespectedbyhisownpeople。
TheAmericanGovernmentcaneasilyaffordtheexpenditureneededtoprovideproperhousesorapartmentsforitsentirediplomaticcorps，butitcanhardlyaffordNOTtoprovidethese。FullprovisionforthemwouldnotburdenanyAmericancitizentotheamountofthehalfofaBostonbiscuit。Leavingmattersintheirpresentconditionis，inthelongrun，farmorecostly。Ioncehadoccasiontoconsiderthismatterinthelightofeconomy，andfoundthatthecostofthewholediplomaticserviceoftheUnitedStatesduringanentireyearwasonlyequaltotheexpenditureinoneofourrecentwarsduringfourhours;sothatifanymemberofthediplomaticserviceshoulddelayadeclarationofwarmerelyforthespaceofaday，hewoulddefraythecostoftheserviceforaboutsixyears。
Mr。CharlesFrancisAdams，byhisadmirablediplomaticdealingwiththeBritishForeignOfficeatthecrisisofourCivilWar，preventedthecomingoutofthelaterConfederatecruiserstopreyuponourcommerce，and，inallprobability，thusavertedaquarrelwithGreatBritainwhichwouldhavelengthenedourCivilWarbymanyyears，anddoubtlesshavecostushundredsofmillions。
GeneralWoodford，ourrecentministeratMadrid，undoubtedlydelayedourwarwithSpainforseveralmonths，andskilfuldiplomaticinterventionbroughtthatwartoaspeedyclosejustassoonasourmilitaryandnavalsuccessesmadeitpossible。
Thecasesarealsomanywhereourdiplomaticrepresentativeshavequietedillfeelingswhichwouldhavedonegreatharmtoourcommerce。Thesefactsshowthatthediplomaticservicemaywellbecalled"TheCheapDefenseofNations。"
When，inadditiontothis，anAmericanrecallssuchpricelessservicestocivilization，andtothecommerceofourcountryandoftheworld，asthoserenderedbyMr。TownsendHarriswhileAmericanministerinJapan，theundoubtedsavingthroughalongseriesofyearsofmanylivesandmuchpropertybyourministersinsuchoutlyingpartsoftheworldasTurkeyandChina，thepromotionofAmericancommercialandotherinterests，andthesecuringofinformationwhichhasbeenprecioustoinnumerableAmericanenterprises，itseemsincontestablethatourdiplomaticserviceoughtnottobeleftinitspresentslipshodcondition。
Itoughttobeputonthebestandmosteffectivefootingpossible，sothateverywherethemenwesendforthtosupportandadvancethemanifoldinterestsofourcountryshallbethoroughlywellequippedandprovidedfor。Tothisendthepermanentpossessionofasuitablehouseorapartmentineverycapitalistheforemostandmostelementaryofnecessities。
Andwhilesuchaprovisionisthefirstthing，itwouldbewisetoadd，asothernationsdo，amoderateallowanceforfurniture，andforkeepingtheembassyorlegationproperlycaredforduringtheinterimbetweenthedepartureofonerepresentativeandthearrivalofanother。
Ifthisweredone，theprestigeoftheAmericannameandtheeffectivenessoftheservicewouldbevastlyimproved，anddiplomaticpostswouldbenolongersoonerousand，indeed，ruinousastheyhavebeentosomeofthebestmenwehavesentabroad。
AndinorderfullytofreemymindIwilladdthat，whiletheprovisionforaproperembassyorlegationbuildingisthefirstofallthingsnecessary，itmightalsobewelltoincreasesomewhatthesalariesofourrepresentativesabroad。Thesemayseemlargeevenatpresent;butthecostoflivinghasgreatlyincreasedsincetheywerefixed，andthespecialfinancialdemandsuponanambassadororministeratanyofthemostimportantpostsarealwaysfarbeyondthepresentsalary。ItisutterlyimpossibleforanAmericandiplomaticrepresentativetodohisdutyuponthesalarynowgiven，evenwhilelivingonthemostmoderatescaleknowninthediplomaticcorps。Toattempttodosowoulddeprivehimofallopportunitytoexercisethatfriendly，personal，socialinfluencewhichissoimportantanelementinhissuccess。
Tosumupmysuggestionsastothispartofthesubject，Ishouldsay:First，that，asarule，thereshouldbeprovidedateachdiplomaticpostwheretheUnitedStateshasarepresentativeaspaciousandsuitablehouse，eitherboughtbyourgovernmentortakenonalonglease;andthatthereshouldbeasmallappropriationeachyearformaintainingitasregardsfurniture，care，etc。Secondly，thatAmericanrepresentativesofthehighestgrade——namely，ambassadors——shouldhaveasalaryofatleast$25，000ayear;andthatdiplomaticrepresentativesoflowergradeshouldhavetheirsalariesraisedinthesameproportion。
Thirdly，thatanadditionalnumberofsecretariesandattachesshouldbeprovidedinthemannerandforthereasonsaboverecommended。
Ifthecarryingoutofthesereformsshouldrequireanappropriationtothediplomaticservicefiftypercent。higherthanitnowis，——whichisanamountgreaterthanwouldreallyberequiredbyalltheexpendituresIpropose，includinginterestuponthepurchasemoneyofappropriatequartersforourrepresentativesabroad，——thetotaladditionalcosttoeachcitizenoftheUnitedStateswouldbelessthanhalfacenteachyear。
ThefirstresultoftheseandotherreformswhichIhaveindicated，beginningwithwhatisoftheveryfirstimportance，——provisionforaproperhouseorapartmentineverycapital，——wouldcertainlybeincreasedrespectfortheUnitedStatesandincreasedeffectivenessofitsforeignrepresentatives。
Astotheotherreforms，suchassuitablerequirementsforsecretaryships，andproperpromotionthroughoutthewholeservice，theywouldvastlyincreaseitsattractiveness，inallitsgrades，totheverymenwhomthecountrymostneeds。Theywouldopentoyoungmeninouruniversitiesandcollegesamosthonorablecareer，leadingsuchinstitutionstoestablishcoursesofinstructionwithreferencetosuchaservice——courseswhichwereestablishedlongsinceinGermany，butwhichhavearrivednearestperfectionintwoofoursisterrepublics——attheUniversityofZurichinSwitzerland，andintheecoleLibredesSciencesPolitiquesinParis。
ItseemscertainthatadiplomaticserviceestablishedandmaintainedinthemannerhereindicatedwouldnotonlyvastlyincreasetheprestigeandinfluenceoftheUnitedStatesamonghersisternations，but，purelyfromacommercialpointofview，wouldamplyrepayus。Tohaveindiplomaticpositionsatthevariouscapitalsmenthoroughlywellfittednotonlyasregardscharacterandintellect，butalsoasregardsexperienceandacquaintance，andtohavethemsoprovidedforastobecomethesocialequalsoftheircolleagues，wouldbe，fromeverypointofview，ofthegreatestadvantagetoourcountrymateriallyandpolitically，andwouldgivestrengthtoourpolicythroughouttheworld。
And，finally，toamatterworthmentioningonlybecauseithasatsundrytimesandindiversmannersbeencomicallyarguedandcuriouslymisrepresented——thequestionastoadiplomaticuniform。
Asregardsanyprincipleinvolved，Ihaveneverbeenabletoseeanyreason，apriori，why，ifwehaveauniformforourmilitaryserviceandanotherforournavalservice，wemaynothaveoneforourdiplomaticservice。Ithas，indeed，beenassertedbysundryoratorsdeartothegalleries，aswellasbyvarious"funny—column"men，thatsuchauniformisthatofalackey;butthisassertionlosesforcewhenonereflectsonthesolemnfactthat"plaineveningdress，"whichthesepartizansofJeffersoniansimplicitylaudandmagnify，andwhichistheonlyalternativetoauniform，iswornbytable—waiterstheworldover。
Yet，havingconcededsomuch，truthcompelsmetoaddthat，havingmyselfneverwornanythingsave"plaineveningdress"atanycourttowhichIhavebeenaccredited，oratanyfunctionwhichIhaveattended，Ihaveneverbeenabletodiscovertheslightestdisadvantagetomycountryormyselffromthatfact。
Colleaguesofmine，cladinresplendentuniforms，have，indeed，onmorethanoneoccasioncongratulatedmeonbeingallowedamoresimpleandcomfortablecostume;andthoughsuchexpressionsare，ofcourse，tobetakenwithsomegrainsofallowance，Ihavecongratulatedmyselfwiththedeepestsincerityonmyfreedomfromwhatseemstomeamosttiresomeyoke。
Thediscussionofaquestionofsuchvastimportance——tothecensorsabovereferredto——wouldbeinadequatewerementionnotmadeofastumbling—blockwhichdoesnotseemtohavebeenadequatelyconsideredbythosewhoproposeareturntotheearlierpracticeofourRepublic——andthisis，thattheuniformis，atanyEuropeancourt，butapoorthingunlessitbearssomeevidenceofdistinguishedservice，intheshapeofstars，crosses，ribbons，andthelike。ABritishambassador，orministerplenipotentiary，inofficialuniform，butwithouttheribbonorstaroftheBathorotherhonorableorder，wouldappeartolittleadvantageindeed。ArepresentativeoftheFrenchRepublicwouldcertainlyprefertoweartheplainestdressratherthanthemostsplendiduniformunadornedbytheinsigniaoftheLegionofHonor，and，inageneralway，thesamemaybesaidoftherepresentativesofallnationswhichapprovethewearingofadiplomaticuniform。
ButourownRepublicbestowsnosuch"decorations，"andallowsnoneofitsrepresentatives，duringtheirtermofoffice，toreceivethem;sothat，ifputintouniform，theserepresentativesmustappeartothegreatmassofbeholdersasreallyofinferiorquality，undistinguishedbyanyadornmentswhichindicategoodservice。
Allthisdifficultyourpresentpracticeavoids。TheAmericanambassador，orminister，isknownatoncebythefactthathealonewearsplaineveningdress;andthisfact，aswellastheabsenceofdecorations，beingrecognizedasinsimpleconformitywiththeideasandcustomsofhiscountry，ratheraddstohisprestigethandiminishesit，asfarasIhavebeenabletodiscover。Perhapsthewell—knowncaseofLordCastlereaghattheCongressofViennaisinpoint。Inthemidstofthethrongofhiscolleagues，allofthemmostgorgeouslyarrayedinuniforms，stars，anddecorationsofeverysort，heappearedinthesimplesteveningattire;andtheattentionofMetternichbeingcalledtothisfact，thatmuchexperienced，infinitelybespangledstatesmananswered，"Mafoi！ilestbiendistingue。"
OfcourseweoughttogivedueweighttotheexamplesetbyBenjaminFranklinwhenpresentedtoLouisXVI，andthefactthathissimpleshoe—stringsnearlythrewthecourtchamberlainsintofainting—fits，andthathisplaindresshadanenormousinfluenceonpublicopinion;but，alas！wehavealsototakeaccountofthestatementbyaneminentcritictotheeffectthatFranklin，athispreviouspresentationtoLouisXV，hadworncourtdress，andthatheworesimilargorgeousattireatvariousotherpublicfunctions，withtheinferencethathewaspreventedfromdoingso，whenreceivedbyLouisXVI，onlybythefactthatsomehowhiscourtdresswasinaccessible。[10]
[10]SeeSainte—Beuve，"CauseriesduLundi，"Vol。VII，ArticleofNovember29，1852。
Allthesefacts，conflicting，butmoreorlesspertinent，beingdulyconsidered，Iwouldhavetheruleregardingdressremainasitis，saveintherarecaseswhenthesovereignofacountry，atsomespecialfunction，requestssomemodificationofit。InsuchcasetheSecretaryofStatemight，onewouldsuppose，beallowedtograntadispensationfromtheordinaryrulewithoutanydangertoAmericanliberty。
Forthemoreprofoundconsiderationswhichthisvastsubjectsuggests，thejudiciousreadermaywellconsult"SartorResartus。"
PARTVI
SUNDRYJOURNEYSANDEXPERIENCES
CHAPTERLI
EARLIEREXCURSIONSINTHEUNITEDSTATES——1838—1875
FrommyboyhoodIhavebeenfondoftravel，andattimesthisfondnesshasbeenofgreatusetome。Myconstitution，thoughneverrobust，hasthusfarprovedelastic，andwheneverIhaveatlastfeltdecidedlytheworseforoverworkorcare，thebestofallmedicineshasbeenanexcursion，longerorshorter，inourowncountryorinsomeother。Thusithashappenedthat，besidesjourneysintonearlyeverypartoftheUnitedStates，andofficialresidencesinRussia，France，Germany，andtheWestIndies，IhavemadefrequentvisitstoEurope——amongthemtenortwelvetoItaly，andevenmoretoGermany，France，andEngland，besidesexcursionsintotheScandinaviancountries，Egypt，Greece，andTurkey。TomostoftheseIhavealludedinotherchapters;butthereareafewremainingpossiblyworthyofnote。
ThefirstofthesejourneyswastakenwhenIwentwithmyfatherandmotherfromthelittlecountrytownwherewethenlivedtoSyracuse，Buffalo，andNiagara。Thismusthavebeenin1838，whenIwasaboutsixyearsofage。Everystepofitinterestedmekeenly。Liketheshop—girlinEmileSouvestre’sstory，whojourneyedfromParistoSt。Cloud，Iwas"amazedtofindtheworldsolarge。"Syracuse，whichnowhasaboutonehundredandtwentythousandinhabitants，hadthen，perhaps，fivethousand;
therailwayswhichwereafterwardconsolidatedintotheNewYorkCentralwerenotyetbuilt，andwetraveledmainlyuponthecanal，thoughattimesoverwretchedlymuddyroads。Niagaramadeagreatimpressionuponme，andBuffalo，withitssteamers，seemedasgreatthenasLondonseemsnow。
Fouryearslater，in1842，IwastakentothehillsofmiddleMassachusettstovisitmygreat—grandfatherandgreat—grandmother，andthencetoBoston，whereFaneuilHall，theBunkerHillMonument，HarvardCollege，andMountAuburngreatlyimpressedme。Returninghome，wecamebysteamerthroughtheSoundtothecityofNewYork，andstayedatahotelnearTrinityChurch，whichwasthenalittlesouthofthecentralpartofthecity。Onanothervisit，somewhatlater，wewerelodgedattheAstorHouse，neartheCityHall，whichwasthenattheverycenterofeverything，andthencetookexcursionsfarnorthwardintotheuttermostpartsofthecity，andevenbeyondit，toseethenewlyerectedGraceChurchandthereservoiratForty—secondStreet，whichwereamongthewondersofthetown。MostofallwasIimpressedbytheserviceinthenewlyerectedTrinityChurch。
Theideauppermostinmymindwasthatherewasabuildingwhichwastolastforhundredsofyears，andthatthefiguresinthestoriedwindowsabovethealtarwouldlookdownuponnewgenerationsofworshipers，centuriesafterI，withallthoseliving，shouldhavepassedaway。Myfeelingforreligiousmusicwasthen，assince，verydeep;andtheorganofTrinitygavesatisfactiontothisfeeling;thetremulousground—toneofthegreatpedaldiapasonsthrillingmethroughandthrough。
Atthisperiod，about1843，beganmyvisitswiththefamilytoSaratoga。Mygrandfather，yearsbefore，hadderivedbenefitfromitswaters，andthetraditionofthis，aswellasthefactthatmyfathertheremetsociallyhisbusinesscorrespondentsfromdifferentpartsoftheState，ledtoourgoingyearafteryear。
Drinkingthewaters，takinglifeeasilyuponthepiazzasofthegreathotelsfestoonedwithVirginiacreepers，anddrivingtothelake，formedthen，asnow，themainoccupationsoftheday。Buttherewasthenonethingwhichhasnowceased:inmanyofthegreaterhotelspublicprayerswereheldeveryevening，someeminentclergymanofficiating;andaleaderintheseserviceswasDavidLeavitt，afamousNewYorkbankpresident，shrewd，butpious。Nowandthen，asthepoliticalcampaignsdrewon，wehadspeechesfromeminentstatesmen;andIgiveinthechapterson"MyReligion"reminiscencesofspeechesonreligioussubjectsmadebyArchbishopHughesandFatherGavazzi。AnoccasionalvisitfromWashingtonIrvingorSenator（afterwardPresident）Buchanan，aswellasothermenoflightandleading，arousedmytendenciestowardhero—worship;butperhapstheeventmostvividlystampedintomymemorywastheparadeofMme。Jumel。OneafternoonatthatperiodsheappearedinthestreetsofSaratogainanopencoach—and—four，herhorsesriddenbygailydressedpostilions。
Thiswasregardedbyverymanyvisitorsasanaffrontnotmerelytogoodmorals，buttopatriotism，forshehadthefameofhavingbeeninrelations，moreintimatethanedifying，withAaronBurr，whowaswidelyconsideredasatraitortohiscountryaswellasthemurdererofAlexanderHamilton;andontheseconddayofherparade，anothercarriage，withfourhorsesandpostilions，inallrespectslikeherown，followedherwherevershewentandsometimescrossedherpath:butthiscarriagecontainedanenormousnegro，blackandglossy，aporteratoneofthehotels，dressedintheheightoffashion，whoverygravelyroseanddoffedhishattotheapplaudingmultitudesoneithersideoftheway。Mme。Jumelandherfriendswere，ofcourse，furious;anditwassaidthatherpostilionswouldinfuturebearmedwithpistolsanddirectedtofireupontherivalequipageshoulditagaingetintheirway。Butnocatastropheoccurred;Mme。Jumeltookoneortwomoredrives，andthatwastheendofit。
Inmycollegedays，from1849to1853，goingtoandfromNewHaven，IfrequentlypassedthroughNewYork，andtheprogressofthecitynorthwardsincemyearliervisitswasshownbythefactthatthebesthotelnearestthecenterofbusinesshadbecomefirsttheIrvingHouse，justattheupperendoftheCityHallPark，andlatertheSt。NicholasandMetropolitanhotels，somedistanceupBroadway。Stayingin1853atahotellookingoutuponwhatwastobeMadisonSquare，Inoticedthatallnorthofthatwascomparativelyvacant，savehereandthereafewhousesandchurches。
Goingabroadshortlyafterward，IgavethreeyearstomyattacheshipandstudentlifeinEurope，travelingacrossthecontinenttoSt。Petersburgandback，aswellasthroughGermany，Switzerland，Austria，andItaly，allofwhichwerethenundertheoldregimeofdisunionanddespotism。TothesejourneysIreferelsewhere。
Interestingtome，aftermyreturnhome，werevisitstoChicagoin1858andatvarioustimesafterward。Atmyfirstvisitsthecitywaswretchedlyunkempt。Workmenwereraisingitsgrade，andtheirmodeofdoingthiswasremarkable。Underlinesofbrickandstonehouses，instreetafterstreet，screwswereplaced;and，largeforcesofmenworkingatthese，thevastbuildingswentupsteadily。MyfirststaywasattheTremontHouse，thenafamoushostelry;andduringthewholeofmyvisittheenormousestablishment，severalstoriesinheight，wasgoingonasusual，thoughitwasallopenbeneathandrisingintheairperceptiblyeveryday。Yearsafterward，whenMr。GeorgePullmanhadbecomedeservedlyoneofthepowersofChicago，hegavemeadinner，atwhichIhadthepleasureofmeetingalargenumberofthemostenergeticanddistinguishedmenofthecity。BeingaskedbyaguestastothetimewhenIfirstvisitedChicago，Istatedthefactsabovegiven，whenmyinterlocutorremarked，"Yes，andifyouhadgonedownintothecellarbeneaththeTremontHouseyouwouldhavefoundourhostworkingatoneofthejack—screws。"I
hadalreadyanadmirationforMr。Pullman;forhehadtoldmeofhiscreationofthePullmancars，andhadshownmethroughthebeautifulartisantownwhichbearshisname;butbythisremarkmyrespectforhimwasgreatlyaugmented。
MyfirstvisittotheupperMississippileftanindelibleimpressiononmymind。Nodescriptionofthatvastvolumeofwaterslowlymovingbeforemyeyeseverseemedatalladequateuntil，yearsafterward，IreadMarkTwain’s"TomSawyer，"andhisaccountofthescenewhenhisheroawakesonaraftfloatingdownthegreatriverstruckaresponsivechordinmyheart。Itwasthefirstdescriptionthateveransweredatalltothepictureinmymind。VeryinterestingtomeweresundrylaterexcursionstoBoston，generallyonuniversityorotherbusiness。AtoneoftheseIpurchasedthelibraryofPresidentSparksfortheuniversity，and，stayingsomedays，hadthepleasureofmeetingmanynotedmen——amongthemMr。JosiahQuincy，whosereminiscencesweretomeveryinteresting，hisaccountsofconversationswithJohnAdamsperhapsmoresothananythingelse。AtvariousclubsI
metmostcharmingpeople，themostengrossingofthesebeingArthurGilman，thearchitect:then，andatothertimes，Isatupwithhimlateintothenight，——once，indeed，theentirenight，——listeningtohisflowofquaintwitandhumor。TherangeofhispowerswasperhapsbestshowninarepetitionofwhatheclaimedtobethedebateinthecitycouncilofBostononhisplansforanewcityhall，whichwereafterwardadopted。ThespeechesinIrishbrogue，TeutonicJargon，anddown—eastYankeedialect，withutterancesinterposedhereandtherebysolemnlypriggishmembers，wereinimitable。Hispetantipathyseemedtobethebishopofthediocese，Dr。Eastburn。StoriesweretoldtotheeffectthatGilman，earlyinlife，haddesiredtotakeordersintheProtestantEpiscopalChurch，butthatthebishoprefusedtoordainhim，onthegroundthathelackedtherequisitediscretion。Hence，perhapshiszealinpreachingwhatheclaimedtobethebishop’ssermons。Dr。Eastburnwasmuchgiventoamplification，andGilmanalwaysinsistedthathehadheardhimonce，whenpreachingontheparableofDivesandLazarus，discusstheprayerofDivesintormentsforadropofwater，asfollows:
"Tothis，mybrethren，underthecircumstancesentirelynatural，but，atthesametime，nolesscompletelyinadmissiblerequest，theagedpatriarchreplied。"
Thebishop，whoenjoyedareputationforeloquence，waswonttodrawhislungsfullofairatfrequentperiodsduringhisdiscourses，thuskeepinghisvoicestrong，asskilfulelocutionistsadvise;andononeverywarmsummerafternoon，accordingtoGilman’saccount，alittleboyinthecongregation，sonofoneofthemostdistinguishedlaymeninthediocese，becomingveryuneasyandbegginghismothertoallowhimtogohome，shehadquietedhimseveraltimesbyassuringhimthatthebishopwouldsoonbethrough，when，justatoneofthemostimpressivepassages，thebishophavingdrawninhisbreathasusual，thelittleboyscreamedsoastobeheardthroughoutthechurch，"No，hewon’tstop，mama;no，hewon’tstop;don’tyouseehehasjustblowedhisselfupagain？"
Gilmanalsotoldusastoryofthebishop’scatechizingthechildreninaBostonchurch，when，havingtakenthescripturalaccountofJonahandcarriedtheprophetintothewhale’sbelly，heaskedveryimpressively，"Andnow，children，howdoyousupposethatJonahfelt？"WhereuponlittleSohier，sonofthenotedlawyer，pipedout，"Downinthemouth，sir。"Gilmaninsistedthatthebishopwasexceedingwroth，andcomplainedtotheboy’sfather，whowasunabletoconcealfromthebishophisdelightathisson’sanswer。
Atonevisitoranother，mainlyduringtheyearsofmyconnectionwithCornellUniversity，ImetatBoston，pleasantly，themenwhowerethenmostdistinguishedinAmericanliterature。Oneofthese，whointerestedmeespecially，wasTicknor，authorofthe"HistoryofSpanishLiterature。"Longfellowalwaysseemedtomeamostlovelybeing，whetheratNahantoratCambridge。Lowellwaswonderfullybrilliantaswellaskindly，andEdwardEverettHaledelightful。ItwasthetimeofHale’sshortstoriesinthe"AtlanticMonthly，"whichseemtomethebesteverwritten。
OliverWendellHolmesImetsorarelythatIhavelittlememoryofhisbrilliantconversation。EmersonImetthenandatothertimes，——once，especially，inarailwaytrainduringoneofhisWesternlecturetours;hewasthenreadingthefirstvolumeofCarlyle’s"FredericktheGreat，"and，onmyaskinghimhowhelikedit，insteadofshowinghisusualdevotiontotheauthor，heburstforthintoastreamofprotestsagainstCarlyle’s"everlastingscoldingatDryasdust。"AmanwhowasasmuchoverratedthenasheisunderratednowwasWhipple，theessayist;