hewasalwaysbright，andoftensuggestive;buttooreliantuponastylewhichisnowoutofdate，——frequentlysummoning"alliteration’sartfulaid，"andresortingtootherdevices，fashionablethen，butnowdiscarded。Perhapsthebestofallhissentenceswastheoneonthethreegreatstatesmenofthatperiod，totheeffectthatWebsterwasINductive，CalhounDEductive，andClaySEductive;whichwasnotonlywellstatedbuttrue。Veryvividlycomesbacktomeasupper—partygivenearlyin1875atthehouseofJamesT。Fields，incelebrationofBayardTaylor’sbirthday。BesidesMr。andMrs。FieldsandTaylorwerepresentRichardH。Dana，eminentinlawandletters;Cranch，thenknownbothasapainterandpoet;Mr。Osgood;andmyself。Taylorrecited，asIhadheardhimdoatothertimes，fromtheproductionsoftheGeorgiapoet，Chivers，andespeciallyfromthe"EonxofRuby。"Chivers，accordingtoTaylor’sshowing，hadbecomeinfatuatedwithPoe，andadornedhisverseswitheverysortofbeautifulwordwhichhecouldcoin，theresultbeingasnonsensicalamedleyaswaseverknown。Earlierintheevening，Taylor，Fields，andmyselfhadeachofusbeengivingalecture，andthisledTaylortospeakofarecentexperienceofhiswhileholdingforthinoneofthesmallertownsofMassachusetts。Thechairmanofthelecturecommittee，beingseatedbesidehimontheplatform，andwishingtoentertainhimwithedifyingconversationwhiletheaudiencewascominginremarkedthattheyhadhadratheratryingexperienceduringthelectureoftheweekbefore。
OnTaylor’saskingwhatitwas，thechairmananswered:"Thelecturerwasseizedbyaviragoonthestage。"Hemeantvertigo。
DanatoldgoodstoriesofoldDr。OsgoodofMedford，whosehatredofDemocracywasshownnotonlyinhiswell—knownreadingofGovernorGerry’sproclamation，butinhisbittersermonattheelectionofThomasJefferson。AtthissomeonegaveastoryregardingourcontemporaryDr。Osgood，theeminentUnitarianclergyman，who，towardtheendofhislife，hadgoneintotheProtestantEpiscopalChurch。Ihadknownhimasamanofmuchabilityandpower，butwitharatherextraordinarywayofassertinghimselfandpatronizingpeople。Hehadrecentlydied，andalegendhadarisenthat，onhisarrivalintheNewJerusalem，beingpresentedtoSt。Paul，hesaid:"Sir，Ihavederivedbothprofitandpleasurefromyourwritings，andhavecommendedthemtomycongregation。"
Ourhost，Fields，wasespeciallydelightful。HegavereminiscencesofhisstaywithTennysonontheIsleofWight——amongothers，oftakingawalkwithhimonedarkeveningwhen，suddenly，thegreatpoetfellonhisknees，andseemingtoburrowinthegrasscalledoutgutturallyandgruffly:"Man，getdownonyourmarrow—bones;hereareviolets。"FieldsalsogavereminiscencesofCharlesSumner，showingthegreatsenator’sutterlackofanysenseofhumor，andamongthemastoryofhissummoninghisoffice—boytohispresenceontheeveoftheFourthofJulyandaddressinghimonthiswise:"Patrick，to—morrowisthenataldayofourRepublic;itisadayforpublicrejoicing，atimeofpatrioticfestivity。Youneednotcometotheoffice;
gooutandrejoicewithourfellow—citizensthatyourlotiscastinsohappyacountry。Herearefiftycents;IadviseyoutopassthedayatthecemeteryofMountAuburn。"
VeryinterestingtomeweresundryexcursionsintheSouthernStates，thefirstasfarbackas1864。AfterattendingtheBaltimoreConventionwhichrenominatedMr。Lincoln，andpayingmyrespectstohimatWashington，asstatedinmypoliticalreminiscences，IwentsomewhatlatertoRichmond。LibbyPrisonhadasadinterestforme，asformanyatthattime，andonallsideswasseenthehavocofwar;butperhapsthemostcuriousfeatureofmystaywasavisittothehousewhichhadservedastheWhiteHouseoftheConfederacy——thedwellingofJeffersonDavis，for，justasIenteredthedoorImetoneofthearchantislaverymenofNewEngland，Dr。LeonardBaconofNewHaven。
Bothofuswerehappyattheoutcomeofthewar，butitwaswithaverysolemnsortofjoythatwethusmetinsuchaplace。I
seemedtohear，assooftenintheSouthofthatday，and，indeed，intheNorthalso，thatfearfulprophecyofThomasJefferson——whenspeakingofslaveryintheSouthernStates——beginningwiththewords，"ItremblewhenIrememberthatGodisjust。"HaltingatGettysburgonmyreturnnorthward，I
foundmarksoftheterriblecontestofthepreviousyearstillvivid。Formiles，inalldirections，ontheroadsandthroughthefields，werefragmentsofshell，ofcannon，ofharness，ofclothing，andequipmentsofeverysort。Thetrees，especiallythosenearthegreatcentersofthestruggle，wherethecemeterynowis，weregashedandtornintrunkandbranches，andhereandthereweretobeseenfragmentsofhumanbodieswhich，havingbeentoohastilyburied，hadbeenwashedoutbytherains。
Abouttenyearslater，——February，1875，——beingmuchwornwithlaborandcareattheuniversity，ImadeashortstayinthemoreSouthernStates，myfirststopbeingatWashington，whereI
passedaninterestingeveningattheExecutiveMansionwithPresidentGrant，whowasassimpleandcordialinmannerasever。
ThenextdayIleftWashingtonforRichmondandthefarSouth，andonthemorningfollowingwasarousedatoneoftheway—stationsbyhearingnegroessinginginaneighboringcar。
Theywerehappyattheprospectofbreakfast，butacuriouspreliminarywasthateachcameoutupontheplatform，and，takingacurrycombwhichwashungupforthepurpose，curriedhimself，muchasanostleradministersthattreatmenttoahorse——everynegrograspinginhisturnthelargewoodenhandleandpullingtheironteeththroughhisplentifulwool。
StoppingnextatColumbiainSouthCarolina，Isawflagrantexamplesofcarpet—bagrule;butofthoseintheState—houseI
havealreadyspoken。HerewasafocusofSouthernfeeling;andattheStateUniversity，whichwascharminglysituated，andaltogetheramostfittinghomeforscholarsandthinkers，IwastakenintothelibrarywhereformerlystoodthebustofFrancisLieber，onceaprofessorintheinstitution。NeverhadtheSouthawiserorbetterfriend。InafteryearsIknew，loved，andrespectedhim。Nomanwithadeeperknowledgeoffreeinstitutions，orwithgreaterloveforthem，haseverlivedinourcountry;butwhenthenewscametohisolduniversity，wherehehadbeensogreatlyadmired，thathewastruetotheUnion，hismarblebustwastornfromitsplace，dishonored，anddestroyed。TherecouldbenobetterillustrationofBishopButler’sideaof"apossibleinsanityofStates。"
OnSunday，havingbeentakenbyoneoftheprofessorsintheuniversitytoaProtestantEpiscopalchurchforcoloredpeople，ofwhichhewasrector，Iwassurprisedatthelightcolorandrealbeautyofmanyofthewomenpresent:nowhere，saveinJamaica，hadIseenpeopleofmixedracessoattractive。InCharlestontherewereonallsidesruins，duenotonlytotheCivilWar，buttothemorerecentfireandearthquake。ItallseemedasifthevengeanceofHeavenhadbeenwroughtuponthecity。Mysympathiesweredeeplyenlisted;Ifeltnoangeroverthepast，noexultation。IwastakentoahomeforConfederateorphansandtoanotherforwidows，andinbothwerepointedouttomemembersoffamilies，nowhopelesslydestitute，whobeforethewarlivedinluxury。Innocity，athomeorabroad，haveI
everseenalineofstatelymansionswhichseemedmorefittingabodesforwealthandculturethanthoseupontheesplanadeatCharleston;inthedaysgonebyanoblehospitalityhadcenteredthere，butallwasnowsilentanddistressed。
Onthe4thofMarchwearrivedinFloridaandfounditfascinating。NeverbeforehadIbeenfarthersouthuponthemainlandoftheUnitedStatesthanCharleston，andneverhadI
seenanythingofthisregion，savewhenthefrigatebearingtheSantoDomingoCommissiontouchedatKeyWest。AmongthemostcharacteristicthingsatJacksonvillewasalargechurchbelongingtothenegroBaptists，whowereevidentlytheleadingsect。Thechurchwaslarge，butunfinished，andamainfeatureofeveryservicewaspassingthehatforcontributions。Theservicesweresingularindeed。Therewasoneoldnegropastorwho，thoughhecouldreadlittleifatall，hadschooledhimselftolookintotheBiblewhilerecitingpartsofchapters，andtokeephiseyesuponthepagesofhishymnalwhilerepeatingthehymns;andaveryweightyfunctionwasthereadingofnoticesofeverysortofsocialgathering，especialprominencebeinggiventomeetingsoffire—enginecompanies。ThenumberofNorthernvisitorswasverylarge，anditwasevidentthatthenegromanagersofthecongregationfelttheimportanceofkeepingongoodtermswithallofthemwithoutregardtoparty;for，ononeoccasion，asthepastorwasgivingthesenotices，slowlydecipheringthem，withtheaidofayoungerminister，andreadingthemmechanically，hebeganasfollows:"Derewillbeameetin’ofdeRepublikinsofdisward"——andinstantlyanumberofthebrethrenstartedtotheirfeet，andputuptheirhandswithalong"Hu—u—u—sh！"Thepreacherwasgreatlyembarrassedandpassedonimmediatelyto"TherewillbeameetingofNo。2FireCompany，"etc。，etc。Mostheartyofallwasthesinging，inwhichthewholecongregationjoinedloudlyandwithvoicesclearandsilvery。Aftertheserviceswereovertherecameregularlywhatwascalledthe"sperritualpart。"Someoneofthemoregiftedsingers——ofwhom，perhaps，themostsatisfactorywasayoungcoloredmaninablackvelvetcoatandabrilliantredtie——cameforward，stoodbeforethepulpit，andbeganalongsolo——asarule，withscoresofverses。Onewasonthecreation，anotherontheflood，eachverseparaphrasingthescripturalaccount;andtherefrain，inwhichthewholecongregationjoined，wasasfollows:
"OlePharaohhegotlaw—s—t——
Gotlaw—s—t，gotlaw—s—t——
OlePharaohhegotdrowndedIntheRe—e—e—e—dSea。"
Butsooncameasongwhichamazedme。Itwastotallydifferentincharacterfromanyoftheothers，andwascalled"TheSevenGloriesofMary。"Oneoftheversesranasfollows:
"An’deberrynextglorydatMaryshehad，Itwasdegloryofsebben——
ItwasdatherSonJesushetolleddebellsofhebben;"
andthen，asattheendofeachverse，camefromthewholecongregationtherefrain:
"Oh，trialsan’tribulashuns！
I’mgwinetoquitdisworld。"
NextdayIsentforthesingerandaskedhimwherehehadlearnedhissongs。Hisanswerwas，"Boss，Imade’emupmyself。"TothisIanswered，"Quitelikely，someofthem;butnot’TheSevenGloriesofMary。’"Hethoughtamoment，andthensaid，"Yes，boss，you’reright;datsongIbroughtdownfromoleVirginny。"
ItwasasIhadthought。ThesongwasanoldChristmascarol，evidentlybroughtfromEnglandinColonialtimes;andthenegroes，havingsubstitutedhereandthereawordoraphrasewhichstruckthemasfinerthantheoriginalhadpreservedit。
Strange，indeed，werethedevotionsofthisgreatcongregation。
Occasionallysomeoldplantationnegro，gray—headedandwornwithlabor，wouldriseandleadintheprayerswitharealinspiration，pouringouthiswholeheart，withallitshopesandsorrows。NeverhaveIheardmorepatheticsupplications。MorethanonceIhaveseentearsstreamingfromtheeyesoftheNorthernvisitors，andthen，almostinamoment，thesamefaceswreathedinsmilesatsomefarceingivingoutthenoticesorintakingupthecollections。
AcharmingepisodeinthisFloridastaywasanexcursionuptheSt。John’sRiver，throughbeautifulsemi—tropicalvegetation。Butonethingwasexceedinglyvexatious。Onthedeckofthesteamerwerevarioustouristswhoenjoyedthemselvesbyshootingthebeautifulbirdsandinterestingsauriansoftheregion——merewantonkilling，withneveranystoptopickupthebodiesofthesecreatures。ItremindedmeoftheoldwastefulnessintheNorth，——theexhaustivefishingoftheriversandstreams，especiallythetrout—streams;thekillingofdeerbyhundreds;
andthewantonexterminationofthebuffalo。Wonderfultomewerethegreatspringsoftheregion——springssolargethatthelittlesteamercouldmakeitswaytothemanduponthem，sothatfromthedeckwecouldlookfar，fardownintothedepthsasthroughclearcrystal。MostinterestingofthepeopleImetwereProfessorandMrs。HarrietBeecherStowe，whowerepassingthewinterintheirhouseatMandarinnearby，andinvitedustovisitthem。Theirswasahappy—go—luckysortoflife，inasimplecottagesurroundedbygreatorangeorchards，beyondwhichwasafringeofpalmettos。Onthemorningafterourarrival，Mrs。Stowecameinandsaid，"Well，weshallhavedinner。"TowhichIsaid，"Ofcourseweshall。""No，"saidshe，"not’ofcourse，’forwhenIawokethismorningtherewasnothingfordinnerinthehouse，andnoprospectofanythinginthevillage;but，takingmywalk，Imetanegrowithamagnificentwildturkeywhichhehadjustshot，andthatwewillhave。"Justbeforedinner，ourhostessandIwalkedoutintotheorangeorchardandtherepickedfromthetreesalargemarket—basketfullofthemostbeautifulorangeseverseen，——large，sweet，andjuicy;andthese，embeddeddeftlybyherinagreatmassofrichgreenleaves，glorifiedthetableduringthediscussionoftheturkey，andbecameourdessert。
Neverwasthereamoresumptuousdinner，andneverbettertalk。
Mrs。Stowewasatherbest，andtheDoctoraboundedinquaintcitationsfromFrenchmemoirs，ofwhichhewasanindefatigablereader。
OnthewayNorthIstoppedagainatCharleston，visitingDraytonHall，afineoldmansiondatingfrom1740，butnevercompleted，surroundedbybeautifulgardensfilledwithgreatazaleasinfullbloom，themostgorgeousIhaveeverseeninanypartoftheworld;butacloudseemedtoriseoveritallwhenweweretoldthat，exceptinwinter，remainingontheislandwasforwhitepeoplecertaindeath。InallthisjourneythroughtheSouthI
addedmuchtomylibraryregardingSecessionandtheCivilWar;
accumulatingnewspapers，tracts，andbookswhichbecamethenucleusofthelargeCivilWarcollectionatCornell。Then，too，thereweretalkswithpeopleonthetrainandinthehotels，sometimesprofitableandsometimesamusing。Astothefeelingbetweenthewhitesandthenegroes，aformermastersaidtome，"MyoldniggerswilldoanythingIwishexceptcasttheirballotsforme;theywillgivemeanythingtheyhaveinthisworldexcepttheirvotes;theywouldstarvethemselvesforme，buttheywon’tvoteforme。"AmongmyriadsofstoriesIheardonewhichseemedtoarguemorephilosophicpowerinthenegrothanmanysupposehimtopossess。AyoungplanteratoneoftheSouthernwatering—placesappearedeverydayterriblybittenbymosquitos，sothat，finally，someoftheguestssaidtohisnegrobody—servant，"Bob，whydon’tyoutakepainstoprotectyourmasterwithmosquitocurtains？"Towhichthenegroanswered，"Nouseinit，sah;defactis，sah，datindenight—timeMarsTomistoodrunktocarefordeskeeters，andindedaytimedeskeetersistoodrunktocareforMarsTom。"Therewasalsoarevelationofnegroreligiousfeelinginastorytoldmeregarding"Thad"
Stevens。Mr。Stevenswasinhisday，onmanyaccounts，themostpowerfulmemberoftheHouseofRepresentatives——attimesaverysternmentortoMr。Lincoln，andtoPresidentJohnsonaterror。I
rememberhimasroughandofacridhumor，butwithasortofruggedpower。Thestorywasthatoneday，whileatdinner，heheardatthesideboardthecrashofaplatter，andimmediately，inafury，calledout，withabitteroath，"Well，youidiot————————，whathaveyoubrokennow？"Towhichthenegrowomananswered，"BressdegoodLord，itain’tdethirdcommandmunt。"
TherewerevariousotherjourneysonAmericansoil，andamongthemaverydelightfulsummerstay，in1884，atNantucket;butofalltheimpressionsuponmeatthatperiodperhapsthestrongestwasmadebyapieceofcrassabsurditynotunusualinacertainstratumofAmericansociety。MakinganexcursionwithmyfriendPresidentGilmanfromNantuckettotheUnitedStatesFisheriesStationatWoodsHole，westoppedovernightatMartha’sVineyard，abeautifullittleislandwhichhasnowbecomeasortofsaints’
restwhere，duringthesummer，acertainclassofpiousNewEnglandersofthelessintellectualtypecrowdthemselvesintolittlecottagesandenjoyapermanentcamp—meeting。Never，except，perhaps，amongthedervishesofCairo，haveIseenanyreligionmorerepulsive。Ontheeveningofourarrival，GilmanandIwentintothelargeskating—rinkwhereaGermanbandwasblowingitsbest，andalargeconcourseofyoungmenandwomenfromthevariouspiousfamiliesoftheplaceweredisportingthemselves。Dancingwasnotallowedthem，andso，withtheirarmsaroundeachother’swaists，theywereexecutingvariousgyrationsonroller—skatestothesoundofthismusic。Presently，asIsatratherlistlesslylookingon，Iwasstruckbyapeculiarchangeinthetune。Gilman，too，seemedinawayparalyzedbyit;and，turningtohim，Isaid，"Tellmewhatthatmusicis。"Thenhecameoutofhisdazeandsaid，"Greatheavens！itis’Nearer，myGod，toThee’——playedasawaltz！"Soitwas。Thewholething，toanyproperreligious，moral，orestheticsense，wasghastly。
Thesepiousyoungmenandwomen，who，onnoaccount，wereallowedtodance，weregoingthroughsomethingfarmoreindecentthananydancingIhadeverseen，andtomusicwhichwasatravestyofoneofthemostsacredofChristiancompositions。Ihavelongregardedcamp—meetingsasamongtheworstinfluencestowhichourruralyoutharesubjected——JoeMillerjokesinthepulpit，hystericsinthepews，withanatmosphereoftenblasphemousandsometimeserotic。Adevotedcountryclergymandoinghissimpleduty——tryingtolifthiscongregationtobetterviewsoflife，partakingtheirjoysandalleviatingtheirsorrows，oftenamartyrtomeddlesomedeaconsortopompoustrustees，andhiswifeapreytothewhimsicalwivesofopinionatedpew—owners——suchamanIdeeplyrevere;butthelongerIlivethemoreIamconvincedthattheprofessionalrevivalistandthesensationpreacherarenecessarilyandnormallyfoesbothtoreligionandtocivilization。
CHAPTERLII
ENGLANDREVISITED——1885
In1885，havingresignedthepresidencyatCornell，aftertwentyyearsofservice，IwenttoEurope;mymainpurposebeingtoleavemysuccessoruntrammeledastoanychangeswhichhemightseefittomake。Hewasanoldfriendandstudentofminewhom，whenthetrusteeshadaskedmetonominateamantofollowmeI
hadnamedasthebestmanIknewfortheworktobedone;but，warmasweretherelationsbetweenus，Imadeupmymindthatitwasbesttoleavehimanentirelyfreehandforatleastayear。
Crossingtheocean，IhadtheclosecompanionshipofThomasHughes（"TomBrown"），andhewasathisbest。AmongthestorieshetoldwasoneofBrowning。Thepoetonemorning，hearinganoiseinthestreetbeforehishouse，wenttohiswindowandsawagreatcrowdgazingatsomeChinameningorgeouscostumeswhowerejustleavingtheircarriagestomounthissteps。PresentlytheywereannouncedastheChineseministerattheCourtofSt。
Jamesandhissuite。Asolemnpresentationhavingtakenplace，Browningsaidtotheinterpreter，"MayIasktowhatIamindebtedforthehonorofhisExcellency’svisit？"Theinterpreterreplied，"HisExcellencyisapoetinhisowncountry。"Thereuponthetwopoetsshookhandsheartily。Browningthensaid，"MayIasktowhatbranchofpoetryhisExcellencydevoteshimself？"towhichtheinterpreteranswered，"HisExcellencydevoteshimselftopoeticalenigmas。"AtthisBrowning，recognizingfullythecomicelementinthesituation，extendedhishandmostcordially，saying，"HisExcellencyisthricewelcome，heisabrother，indeed。"
ThemonthofOctoberwaspassedinthesouthwestofEngland，andtheredwellinmymindrecollectionsofChatsworth，HaddonHall，andBristol;but，aboveall，ofastaywiththehistorianFreemanatWells。Thewholelifeofthatcharmingcathedraltownanditsneighborhoodwasdelightful。Freeman’skindnessopenedalldoorstous。Thebishop，LordArthurHervey，showeduskindlyhospitalityathisgrandoldcastle，whichwehadenteredbyadrawbridgeoverthemoat。Ofespecialinteresttomewasaportraitofoneofhispredecessors——dearoldBishopKen，whosemorningandeveninghymnsareamongthemostbeautifultiesbetweenEnglandandtheUnitedStates。Intheevening，diningwiththemagistratesandlawyers，Iheardgoodstories，amongthemsomecharacterizingvariouseminentmembersoftheprofession，andoftheseIespeciallyrememberoneattheexpenseofthelateLordChancellorsWestburyandCranworth。LordCranworth，aftertheamalgamationoflawandequity，wasforsometimeinthehabitofgoingtositwiththenewjudgesinordertofamiliarizehimselfwiththereformedpractice，whereuponsomeoneaskedLordWestbury，"Whydoes’Cranny’gotositwiththejudges？"towhichWestburyanswered，"Doubtlessfromachildishfearofbeingaloneinthedark。"
NextdayIwasinvitedtositwiththesquiresintheCourtofQuarterSessions，andwasgreatlyinterestedintheirmodeofadministeringjustice。Therewasafirmness，butatthesametimeastraightforwardcommonsenseaboutitallwhichgreatlypleasedme。AvisittoWellsCathedralwithFreemanwasinitswayideal;
forneverinallmystudiesofmediaevalbuildingshaveIhadsogoodaguide。ButperhapsthemostcuriousexperienceofourstaywasanattendanceuponapoliticalmeetingatGlastonbury，intheGladstonianinterest。Thefirstspeechwasmadebythecandidate，SirHughDavey;andinhisanxietytopropitiatehishearershebeganbyaddressingthemasmenwhoseancestorshadforcenturiesshowntheirdevotiontofreeprinciples，andhadespeciallygivenproofofthisbyhangingthelastAbbotofGlastonburyattheoldtowerabovethetown。But，shortlyafterward，whenFreemanbeganhisspeech，itwasevidentthathisloveofhistoricaltruthandhisdevotiontochurchprincipleswouldnotpermithimtopassthispartofDavey’sharangueunnoticed。ReferringthenrespectfullytohiscandidateforParliament，Freemanwentontosayinsubstancethathisdistinguishedfriendwasinerror;thatthelastAbbotofGlastonburywasnotatraitor，butamartyr——amartyrtoliberty，andavictimofthatarch—enemyofliberty，HenryVIII。AnyonewhohadheardFreemaninAmericaasalecturerwouldhavebeenamazedathisabilityasapoliticalspeaker。Asalecturer，tryingtobeeloquentwhilereadingamanuscript，hewasgenerallyineffectiveandsometimescomical，——worseeventhanthegeneralrunoflecturersintheGermanuniversities，andthatissayingmuch;butasapublicspeakerhewasexcellent——somuchsothat，congratulatinghimafterward，andbearinginmindthefactthathehadbeenformerlydefeatedforParliament，IassuredhimthatifhewouldcometoAmericaandmakespeecheslikethat，wewouldmostcertainlyputhiminCongressandkeephimthere。
TowardtheendofOctoberwewentontoExeter，andthere，atHeavitreeChurch，heardBishopBickerstethpreachadmirably，meetinghimafterwardatourluncheonwiththevicar，andtakingsupperwithhimattheepiscopalpalace。HewasperhapsbestknowninAmericaastheauthorofthepoem，"Yesterday，To—day，andForever";andofthishegavemeacopy，remarkingthateveryyearhereceivedfromtheAmericanpublisheracheckforfiftypounds，thoughtherewasnocopyrightrequiringanypaymentwhatever。Inhisstudyheshowedmeacopyof"TheBookAnnexed，"
whichpresentedtheenrichmentsandemendationswhichanumberofdevoutscholarsandthinkerswereendeavoringtomakeinthePrayer—bookoftheProtestantEpiscopalChurchintheUnitedStates，andhespokewithenthusiasmoftheseadditions，which，alas！haveneveryetbeenadopted。
NextcameavisittoTorquay，whereKent’sCavern，withitsprehistoricrelics，interestedmevastly。Lookingatthem，therecouldbenoparticleofdoubtregardingtheenormousantiquityofthehumanrace。Thereweretobeseentheevidencesofman’sexistencescatteredamongtheremainsofanimalslongagoextinct——animalswhichmusthavelivedbeforegeologicalchangeswhichtookplaceagesonagesago。Mixedwithremainsoffireandhumanimplementsandhumanbonesweretobeseennotonlybonesofthehairymammothandcave—bear，woollyrhinocerosandreindeer，whichcouldhavebeendepositedthereonlyinatimeofarcticcold，butbonesofthehyena，hippopotamus，saber—toothedtiger，andthelike，whichcouldhavebeendepositedonlywhentheclimatewastorrid。TheconjunctionoftheseremainsclearlyshowedthatmanhadlivedinEnglandearlyenoughandlongenoughtopassthroughtimesofarcticcold，andtimesoftorridheat;
timeswhengreatglaciersstretchedfardownintoEnglandand，indeed，intotheContinent，andtimeswhenEnglandhadalandconnectionwiththeEuropeancontinent，andtheEuropeancontinentwithAfrica，allowingtropicalanimalstomigratefreelyfromAfricatothemiddleregionsofEngland。
Thechangewroughtbysuchdiscoveriesasthese，notonlyinEngland，butinBelgium，France，andelsewhere，asregardsourknowledgeoftheantiquityofthehumanraceandthecharacterofthecreationprocess，isoneofthegreatthingsofourepoch。[11]
[11]Ihavediscussedthismorefullyinmy"HistoryoftheWarfareofSciencewithTheology，"Vol。I，chap。vi。
Thencewevisitedvariouscathedraltowns，beingshowndelightfulhospitalityeverywhere。ThereremainsvividlyinmymemoryavisittoWorcester，wherethedean，LordAlwynCompton，nowBishopofEly，wentoverthecathedralwithus，andshowedusmuchkindnessafterwardatthedeanery——amediaevalstructure，fromthegreatwindowofwhichwelookedovertheSevernandthefamousCromwellianbattle—field。
Salisburywefoundbeautifulasofold;thentoBrightonandto"TheBungalow"ofHalliwell—PhillipstheShaksperianscholar，andneverhaveIseenamorequainthabitation。OntheheightabovethetownPhillipshadbroughttogetheranumberofportablewoodenhouses，andconnectedthemwithcorridorsandpassagesuntilalltogetherformedasortoflabyrinth;theonlycluebeinginthenamesofthecorridors，allbeingchosenfromShakspere，andeachbeingenrichedwithShaksperianquotationsappropriateandpithy。Athistableduringourstaywemetvariousinterestingguests，oneofwhomsuggestedtheidearegardingthesecretofCarlyle’scynicismandpessimismtowhichreferenceismadeinmy"WarfareofScience。"Nextcamevisitstovariouscountryhouses，alldelightful，andthenastayatOxford，towhichIwasreinitiatedbyJamesBryce;andfortwoweeksitwasaroundofinterestingvisits，breakfasts，luncheons，anddinnerswiththemenbestworthknowingatthevariouscolleges。InterestingwasavisittoAllSoulsCollege，which，havingbeenfoundedasaplacewheresundry"clerks"
shouldprayforthesoulsofthosekilledatthebattleofCrecy，had，asSirWilliamAnson，itspresenthead，showedme，begunatlastdoinggoodworkafterfourhundredyearsofuselessness。Inthechapelwasshownmetherestoredreredos，whichwasofgreatsize，extendingfromfloortoceiling，takingtheplaceofthechancelwindowusualinchurches，andmadeupofnichesfilledwithstatuesofsaints。Astheheadsofalltheearlierstatueshadbeenknockedoffduringthefanaticalperiod，therehadbeensubstituted，duringtherecentrestoration，newstatuesofsaintsbearingtheheadsofnotedscholarsandothersconnectedwiththecollege，amongwhichMaxMulleroncepointedouttomehisown，andaverygoodlikenessitwas。InterestingtomewereBryce’sroomsatOriel，fortheywerethoseinwhichJohnHenryNewmanhadlived:atthathearthwaswarmedintolifetheOxfordMovement。AtoneoftheOrieldinners，BrycespokeofthechangesatOxfordwithinhismemoryasenormous，sayingthatperhapsthegreatestofthesewasthepreferencegiventolaymenoverclergymenasheadsofcolleges。AnexampleofthiswasthepresidentofMagdalen。IhadmethimnotmanyyearsbeforeinSwitzerland，asayoungman，andnowhehadbecometheheadofthisgreatcollege，oneoftheforemostintheuniversity。Thisimpressedmeallthemorebecausemymemorysuggestedacomparisonbetweenhimandthepresidentatmyfirstvisit，thirtyyearsbefore:Warren，thepresentpresident，beinganactive—mindedlaymanhardlyoverthirty，andhispredecessor，Routh，adoctorofdivinity，whowastheninhishundredthyear。
Itwascurioustoseethat，whilethischangehadbeenmadetolaycontrol，variousrelicsofclericaldominancewerestillinevidence，and，amongthese，thesurplicewornbyBryce，amemberofParliament，whenhereadthelessonsfromthelecterninOrielchapel。AtanotherdinnerIwasstruckbyaremarkofhis，thatourproblemsinAmericaseemedtohimsimpleandeasycomparedwiththoseofEngland;butasIrevisetheserecollections，twentyyearslater，andthinkofthequestionspresentedbyouracquisitionsintheWestIndiesandinthePhilippineandHawaiianislands，aswellasthenegroproblemintheSouthandBryanismintheNorth，tosaynothingofthedevelopmentoftheMonroeDoctrineandthegrowthofsocialistictheories，thequerycomesintomymindastowhathewouldthinkto—day。
November9，1885。
DiningatAllSoulswithProfessorDicey，ImetProfessorGardiner，thehistorian，whomIgreatlyliked;hislectureon"IdeasinEnglishHistory，"whichIhadheardintheafternoon，wassuggestive，thorough，andinteresting:heisevidentlyoneofthehistorianswhoseworkwilllast。InthehallInotedLordSalisbury’sportraitintheplaceofhonor。
Tuesday，November10。
BreakfastingatOrielwithBryce，ImetBroderick，wardenofMerton，andtherewasaninterestingpoliticaldiscussion。BrycethoughtChamberlainhadalarmedthewell—to—doclasses，buttrustedtoGladstonetobringmattersaroundright，and，aproposofsomerecentoccurrences，remarkedupontheamazingdepthofspiterevealedintheblackballingatclubs。TooklunchatBalliol，wherethediscussionupongeneralandAmericanhistorywasinteresting。DinedwithBryceatOriel，and，thediscussionfallinguponEnglishandAmericanpolitics，sundryremarksofFowler，presidentofCorpusChristiCollege，werepungent。HeevidentlythinksbitterlyofpoliticalcorruptioninAmerica，andIfindthisfeelingeverywherehere;politelyconcealed，ofcourse，butnonethelesspainful。Icouldonlysaythatthecontentsofthecaldronshouldnotbejudgedfromthescumthrowntothesurface。IntheeveningtoProfessorFreeman’sandmetMr。
Hunt，knownasawriterandanexaminerinhistory。Hecomplainedbitterlyofthecrammingsystem，assomanydo;thoughtthatJowetthaddonegreatharmbypromotingit，andthatthemainworknowdoneisforpositioninthehonorlist，——crambytutorsbeingeverythingandlecturesnothing。
Wednesday，November11。
TookluncheonwithFowler，presidentofCorpusChristi，amostdelightfulandopen—mindedman。Ihaveenjoyednooneheremore，fewsomuch。Wediscussedtheteachingofethics，helamentingthecominginofHegelianism，whichseemsmainlyusedbysophistsinupholdingoutworndogmas。Afterwardwetookalongstrolltogether，discussingaswewalkedhisadmirablelittlebookon"ProgressinMorals";IsuggestingsomeadditionsfrommyownexperienceinAmerica。IntheafternooncameProfessorFreeman’slectureonConstantine。Itwasaworthypresentationofagreatsubject，buttherewerefewerthantenmembersoftheuniversitypresent，andonlytwooftheseremaineduntiltheclose。IntheeveningIdinedatBalliol，and，theconversationfallingupontheeminentmasterofthecollege，Jowett，andhisfriendshipwithStubbs，BishopofOxford，andFreeman，abuddingcynicrecalledtheverses:
"Igofirst;mynameisJowett;
IamtheMasterofBalliolCollege;
Whatever’sworthknowing，besurethatIknowit;
WhateverIdon’tknowisnotknowledge。"[12]
[12]ThisisgivendifferentlyinTuckwell’sreminiscences。
WhereuponsomeonecitedalinefromanOxfordsatire:"StubbsbuttersFreeman，andFreemanbuttersStubbs";atwhichIcouldonlysaythatJowett，Stubbs，andFreemanhadseemedtome，inmyintercoursewiththem，anythingbutdogmatic，pragmatic，orunctuous。
November13。
InthemorningbreakfastedwithBryceandadozenormoregraduatesandundergraduatesinthecommonroomatOriel，andwasdelightedwiththerelationsbetweeninstructorsandinstructedthenshown。Nothingcouldbebetter。ThediscussionturninguponFroude，whohadevidentlyfascinatedmanyoftheyoungermenbyhisstyle，Brycewasparticularlysevereagainsthimforhiscarelessnessastotruth。ThisremindedmeofaremarkmadetomebyMoncureConway，Ithink，thatFroudehadbegunwiththecareerofanovelist，forwhichhehaddecidedgifts;thatCarlylehadthenmadehimthinkthissortofworkunworthy，urginghimtowritehistory;andthatFroudehadcarriedintohistoricalwritingthecharacteristicsofaromance—writer。IntheafternoontoabeautifulconcertinthegreathallofChristChurch。A
curioussortofaccommodationinquasi—boxeswasprovidedbypushingthedining—tablestothesidesoftheroomandplacingtheaudienceinchairsuponthemandinfrontofthem;itseemedtomemoreserviceablethancleanly。IntheeveningdinedatLincolnCollegewiththerector，Dr。Merry，whowasveryagreeableandentertaining，givinginterestingaccountsofhispredecessor，MarkPattison，andofWilberforcewhenBishopofOxford。Oneoftheguests，afellowofNewCollege，toldmethatsomefiftyyearsagoanAmerican，beingentertainedthereshowedthecollegedonshowtomakemint—julep，orsomethingofthesort，andthensentthemalargesilvercupwiththeconditionthatitshouldbefilledwiththisAmericandrinkeveryyearontheanniversaryofthedonor’svisit，andthatthisisregularlydone。Thispiousdonormusthavebeen，Ithink，"Nat"Willis。