Sunday，November15。
LunchedwithJohnson，fellowofMerton，andmetmyoldfriendMlle。BlazeduBury。Hercomments，fromthepointofviewofabrilliantyoungFrenchwoman，onallshesawaboutheratOxfordwerepungentandsuggestive。IntheeveningheardtheArchbishopofYorkThompson，preachatSt。Mary’s。Heurgedthestudentstoconsecratethemselvesbytheirexampletothemaintenanceofabetterstandardofmorality;but，despitehisstrengthandforce，thesermonseemedheavyandperfunctory。
November16。
ToWindsorwithapartyoffriends，andaswehadaspecialpermittoseealargenumberofroomsandcuriousobjectsnotusuallyshown，thevisitwasveryinteresting。SadlysuggestivewasGordon’sBible，everypagehavingitsmarginscoveredwithannotationsinhisownhand:itwasbroughtfromKhartoumafterhismurder，presentedbyhissistertotheQueen，andisnowpreservedinanexquisitelywroughtsilvercasket。
Tuesday，November18。
VisitedSomervilleHallforwomen，whichshowsavastadvanceoverOxfordasIformerlyknewit。Tothinkthatitscreationhonorsthememoryofawomanwhoattainedherhighscientificknowledgeinspiteofeverydiscouragement，andwho，whenshehadattainedit，wasdenouncedoutrageouslyfromthepulpitofYorkMinsterforit！DinedatMertonCollegewiththewarden，Hon。
GeorgeBroderick，inthehall，whichhasbeenmostbeautifullyrestoredbySirGilbertScott。WhenwillthefoundersofourAmericancollegesanduniversitiesunderstandthevasteducationalvalueofsurroundingslikethese，andespeciallyofa"hall"inwhichstudentsmeeteveryday，beneathstoriedwindowsandthebustsandportraitsofthemosteminentmeninthehistoryofscience，literature，andpublicservice？
InanswertothequestionwhetherinAmericanuniversitiestherewasanythingliketheassociationbetweeninstructorsandstudentsinEngland，Ispokeoftheevolutionofourfraternityhousesaslikelytobringaboutsomethingofthesort。ThefraternalrelationbetweenteachersandtaughtiscertainlythebestthingintheEnglishuniversities，andcoversamultitudeofsins。IfIwereagreatmillionaireIwouldestablishinourgreateruniversitiesascoreorsoofself—governingcolleges，eachwithcomfortablelodging—roomsandstudiesandwithitsownlibraryanddining—hall。Inthecommonroom，afterdinner，IsatnextProfessorWallace，whosebookonKantIhadread。HethinksthesystemofethicsreallypredominantinEnglandismodifiedKantianism。
November19。
ToMortimer，nearReading，onavisittoSirPaulHunter，whooncevisitedmeatCornell。Extractsfrommydiaryofthisvisitareasfollows:
November20。
ToBearwood，theseatofJohnWalter，M。P。，proprietorofthe"Times，"andforthefirsttimeinmylifesawafoxhunt，withthemeet，thehuntsmeninredcoats，andalltherestofit。
November21。
VisitedtheoldAbbeyChurchatReadingwithSirPaul，andintheeveningmetvariousinterestingpeopleatdinner，amongthemSirJohnMowbray，M。P。forOxfordandMr。Walter。
Sunday，November22。
Aftermorningserviceinthebeautifulparishchurchwhich，withitsschools，wasthegiftofMr。Benyon，severalofustookawalktoSilchester，withitsruinsofanoldRomanbath，ontheDukeofWellington’sestate。IntheeveningMr。Walter，whousuallyappearssoreticentandquiet，openedhimselftomequitefreely，speakingveryearnestlyregardingtheunfortunateturnwhichthequestionbetweenCatholicsandProtestantshastakeninEnglandunderpressurefromtheVatican，especiallyasregardsmarriages，andillustratinghisviewbysomemostsuggestivenewspapercuttings。HealsogavemewhatheclaimedwasthetruestoryofEarlRussell’sconductinlettingouttheConfederatecruisersagainstusduringtheCivilWar，attributingittothefactthatanunderlingchargedwithpreventingitwentsuddenlymad，sothatthematterdidnotreceiveearlyattention。ButthisdidnotmodifymyopinionofEarlRussell。ThankHeaven，heliveduntilhesawGreatBritainmadetopayheavilyforhisobstinacy。
Pitythathedidnotlivetoseethepresentrestorationofgoodfeelingbetweenthetwocountries;estoperrpetua（1905）。
Monday，November23。
Intheafternoondroveto"Bramshill，"themagnificentseatofSirWilliamCope;afterall，therehasneverbeenanydomesticarchitecturesonobleastheElizabethanandJacobean。IntheeveningtoaTorymeeting，SirJohnMowbraypresiding;hisopeningspeechastoundedme。Presentingtheclaimsofhisparty，hesaidthattheTorieswerenotonlytheauthorsofextendedsuffrageunderLordBeaconsfield，butthattheyoughtalsotohavethecreditoffreetradeingrain，sinceSirRobertPeelhadsupportedthebillfortherepealofthecornlaws。RememberingthetreatmentwhichSirRobertPeelreceivedfromDisraeliandtheTorypartyforthisveryact，itseemedtomethatSirJohn’sspeechwasthecoolestthingIhadeverheardinmylife。Itwastakeningoodpart，however。InAmericaIamquitesurethatsuchaspeechwouldhavebeenconsideredaninsulttotheaudience。
November24。
ToCambridge，whereImetanumberofoldfriends，includingDr。
Waldstein，directoroftheFitzwilliamMuseum，andSedleyTaylor，fellowofTrinity;andintheeveningdinedatKing’sCollegewiththeformerandanumberofinterestingmen，includingWestcott，theeminentNewTestamentscholar（sinceBishopofDurham）。
November26。
DinedatTrinityCollegewithSedleyTaylorandothers，andthencetothePolitico—EconomicAssociationtohearadiscussionuponcooperationinproduction;thosetakingtheprincipalpartinthemeetingbeingsundryleadingmenamongtheprofessorsandfellowsdevotedtopoliticaleconomy。DuringthedayIcalledonRobertsonSmith，theeminentbiblicalcritic，who，havingbeenthrownoutoftheFreeChurchofScotlandforrevealingsundrytruthsinbiblicalcriticismadozenyearstoosoon，hasbeenreceivedintoafarbetterplaceatCambridge。
November27。
HadadelightfulhourduringthemorninginKing’sCollegechapelwithBradshaw，thelibrarianoftheuniversity——amostaccomplishedman。Hehasapassionforchurcharchitecture，andhisdiscussionsofthewonderfulstainedwindowsofthechapelwereveryinteresting。TheeveningserviceatKing’sCollegewasmostbeautiful:nothingcouldbemoreperfectthantheantiphonalrenderingofthePsalmsbythetwochoirsandthegreatorgan。
MoreandmoreIamimpressedbytheEDUCATIONALvalueofsuchthings。
November28。
DuringthegreaterpartofthedayinthelibraryofTrinityCollegewithSedleyTaylor。Yearsbefore，IhadexploreditstreasureswithAldisWright，buttherewerenewthingstofascinateme。DiningatKing’sCollegewithWaldstein，metProfessorSeeley，authorofthe"LifeofStein，"abookwhich，eversinceitsappearance，hasbeenanobjectofmyadmiration。
November29。
Inthemorning，atKing’sCollegechapel，Iwasgreatlystruckbytheacousticpropertiesofthisimmensebuilding;for，havingseatedmyselfnearthedooratthewestend，Idistinctlyheardeverywordoftheprayerforthechurchmilitantasitwasrecitedbeforethealtarattheotherend。Afterward，atOscarBrowning’srooms，lookedoveramultitudeofinterestingdocuments，includingBritishofficialreportsfromNewYorkduringourWaroftheRevolution;andintheevening，atWaldstein’srooms，metSirHenryMaineanddiscussedwithhimhisbookon"PopularGovernment。"Heinterestedmegreatly，andI
pointedouttohimsomethingswhich，inmyopinion，hemightwelldwellmorestronglyuponinfutureeditions，andamongthesethepopularityofthevetopowerintheUnitedStates，asshowninitsextensionbyrecentlegislationofvariousStatestoitemsofsupplybills。
AtnoontoluncheonatChrist’sCollegewithProfessorRobertsonSmith，theScotchheretic。ThiswastheCambridgehomeofMiltonandDarwin，interestingmemorialsofwhomwereshownme。AmongtheguestswasDr。Creighton，professorofecclesiasticalhistory。TheearlypartofCreighton’sbookonthe"HistoryofthePapacyDuringtheReformationPeriod"hadespeciallyinterestedme，andInowenjoyedgreatlyhisknowledgeofItalianmatters。HediscussedTomasini’sbookonMachiavelli，andsundrynewItalianbooksontherelationsofthePopesandFraPaoloSarpi。
November30。
TookteaatSt。Mary’sHallwithSirHenryMaine，andcontinuedourdiscussiononhis"PopularGovernment，"which，whileopposedtodemocracy，paysagreattributetotheConstitutionoftheUnitedStates。DinedwithProfessorCreighton;metvariousinterestingpeople，anddiscussedwithhimandMrs。CreightonsundrypointsinEnglishhistory，especiallythecareerofArchbishopLaud;myopinionofMacaulay’sinjusticebeingconfirmedthereby。
December11。
WentinthemorningwithSedleyTaylorandProfessorStuart，M。P。，anoldfriendofformervisits，andinspectedthemechanicallaboratoryandworkshops。Therewereaboutseventyuniversitymen，moreorless，engagedinthese，anditwasinterestingtoseeEnglishCambridgeadoptingthesamelinewhichwehavealreadytakenatCornellagainstsomuchopposition，andsurprisingtofindtheCambridgeequipmentfarinferiortothatofCornell。Afterwardvisitedthepollingboothsforanelectionwhichwasgoingon，andnotedtheextraordinaryprecautionsagainstanyinterferencewiththesecrecyoftheballot。AlsototheCavendishphysicallaboratory，which，likethemechanicallaboratory，wasfarinferiorinequipmenttooursatCornell。IntheeveningtotheGreekplay，——the"Eumenides"ofaeschylus，——whichwaswonderfullywelldone。TheAthena，MissCaseofGirtonCollege，wassuperb;theApolloimposing;theOrestesagoodactor;andthemusicveryeffective。IfoundmyselfseatednextAndrewLang，sowellknownforhisliteraryactivityinvariousfields;andonspeakingtohimoftheevidentdelightsoflifeatCambridgeandOxford，Ifoundthathehadoutlivedhisenthusiasmonthatsubject。
December2。
InthemorningtookacharmingwalkthroughSt。Peter’s，Queen’s，andothercolleges，enjoyingtheirquietinteriorcourts，theirhallsandcloisters，thebridgesacrosstheCam，andthewalksbeyond。ThentoalecturebyProfessorSeeleyon"ForcesofGovernmentinHistory。"Itwasadmirablyclear，though，inparts，perhapstoosubtle。AstoEnglandhesummedallupbysayingthatitspresentsystemwassimplyrevolutionatanymoment。Walkinghomewithhimafterward，Iaskedwhy，ifhisstatementwerecorrect，itdidnotrealizetheoldidealinFrance——namely，thatof"Larevolutionenpermanence。"AtluncheonwithWaldsteinatKing’sCollegewefoundLordLytton，recentlygovernor—generalofIndia，knowntoliteratureas"OwenMeredith，"withLadyLytton;
alsoSirWilliamAnson，provostofAllSouls;aswellastheAthenaoflastevening，MissCase;theOrestes，theApollo，SirHenryMaine，andothers。IwasamusedatthedifferencebetweenLordLytton’swayofgreetingmeandhistreatmentofSirWilliamAnson。WhenIwasintroduced，heatoncetookmebythehand，andbegantalkingverycordiallyandopenly;butwhenhiseminentcountrymanwasintroduced，eacheyedtheotherasifinsuspicion，didnotshakehands，bowedverycoldly，andsaidnothingbeyondmutteringsomeoneoftheusualformulas。ItwasacuriousexampleoftheshynessofEnglishmeninmeetingeachother，andoftheirwantofshynessinmeetingmenfromothercountries。AttableLordLyttonspokeregardingtheannexationofBurmah，likelytobeaccomplishedbythedethronementoftheking，Theebaw;saidthatitoughttohavebeenaccomplishedlongago，andthatthedelayofactioninthepremiseswasduetoEnglishtimidity。BothheandLadyLyttonwereveryagreeable。HegaveaninterestingaccountofanativedramaperformedbeforehiminIndiaatthecommandofoneofthegreatprinces，thoughspeakingofitas"deadlydull。"Speakingofdifficultiesinlearningidioms，hetoldthestoryofaGermanprofessorwho，pridinghimselfonhisthoroughknowledgeofEnglishidioms，said，"Wemust，asyouEnglishsay，takezecowbyzecorns。"AtthissomeonerejoinedwiththestoryofthelearnedbabooinIndiawhospokeofsomethingas"magnificent，soul—inspiring，andtip—top。"AsanotherexampleofbabooEnglishwasmentionedtheinscriptionupononeoftheshow—casesinanexhibitioninIndia:
"Allthegoodsinthiscaseareforsale，buttheycannotberemoveduntilafterthedayofjudgment。"
IntheeveningmettheHistoricalClubatOscarBrowning’srooms，andheardanadmirablepaperbyProfessorSeeleyon"BourbonFamilyCompacts。"HesaidthatthefactoftheirexistencewasnotfullyestablisheduntilRankementionedthem，andthathe，Seeley，thenexaminedtheEnglishForeignOfficerecordsandfoundthem。HespokeofthemasrefutingtheargumentsofMacaulayandothersastothefollyofsupposingthatdifferentbranchesofthesamefamilyondifferentthronesarelikelytocoalesce。OscarBrowningthenreadapaperontheflightofLouisXVItoVarennes。Itwaselaborate，andbasedonclosestudyandpersonalobservation。BrowninghadeventakenmeasurementsofthedistanceoverwhichKingLouispassedonthatfatalnight，withtheresultthatheprovedCarlyle’saccounttobeentirelyinaccurate，andhisindictmentagainstLouisXVIbaseduponittobeabsurd。SofarfromtheKinghavinglumberedalongslowlythroughthenightinMme。Korf’scoachbecausehehadnottheforceofcharactertomakehisdrivergorapidly，Browningfoundthatthejourneywasmadeinremarkablyquicktime。
December3。
BreakfastingwithSedleyTaylor，ImetProfessorStuart，M。P。，whothinksagreatliberal，peacefulrevolutionintheEnglishconstitutionwillbeaccomplishedwithinthenextfiftyyears。
ThencewalkedwithTaylortoNewnhamCollege，wherewewereverykindlyreceivedbyMissGladstone，daughteroftheprimeminister，andshownallabouttheplace。WewerealsocordiallyreceivedbyMissClough，andmadetheacquaintanceoftwoAmericangirls，onefromNewJerseyandtheotherfromCalifornia。MuchprogresshadbeenmadesincemyformervisitundertheguidanceofProfessorandMrs。Fawcett。ThencetoJesusCollegechapelandsawWilliamMorris’sstainedglass，whichisthemostbeautifulmodernworkofthekindknowntome。
December4。
VisitedSt。John’s，St。Peter’s，andothercolleges;intheafternoonsawtheeight—oaredboatscomedowntheriverinfinestyle;andintheeveningwenttotheannual"auditdinner"atTrinityCollege，thenumberofvisitorsinthemagnificenthallbeingverylarge。Ifoundmyselfbetweenthevice—master，Trotter，andProfessorHumphrey，thedistinguishedsurgeon。ThelatterthoughtViennahadshotaheadofBerlininsurgery，thoughheconsideredBillrothtooventuresome，andpraisedrecentAmericanworksonsurgery，butthoughtEnglandwasstillkeepingthelead。Atthecloseofthedinnercameacuriouscustom。Twoservantsapproachedthevice—masterattheheadofthefirsttable，laiddownuponitanarrowrolloflinen，andthentheguestsrolledthisalongbypushingitfromeithersideuntil，whenithadreachedtheotherend，astripofsmoothlinenwasleftalongthemiddleofthewholetable。Thenagreatsilverdish，withladlesoneitherside，andcontainingsomesortoffragrantfluid，wassetinfrontofthevice—master，uponthenarrowstripoflinenwhichhadformedtheroll，andthesamethingwasrepeatedateachoftheothertables。Thevice—masterhavingthenfilledalargeglassathissidefromthedish，andI，athissuggestion，havingdonethesame，thegreatdishwaspusheddownthetabletoguestafterguest，eachfollowingourexample。Waitingtoseewhatwastofollow，Ipresentlyobservedagentlemannearmedippinghisnapkinintohisglassandvigorouslyscrubbinghisfaceandneckwithit，evidentlytocoolhimselfoffafterdinner;thiswasrepeatedwithmoreorlessthoroughnessbyotherspresent;andthencameamusicalgraceaftermeat——thenonnobis，Domine——wonderfullygivenbythechoir。Inthecombinationroom，afterward，ImetmostagreeablyMr。Trevelyan，M。P。，anephewofMacaulay，whohaswrittenanadmirablebiographyofhisuncle。
December6。
DinedatTrinityCollegeastheguestofAldisWright，andmetanumberofinterestingmen，amongthemMahaffy，theeminentprofessorofGreekatTrinityCollege，Dublin。BothheandWrighttoldexcellentstories。AmongthoseofthelatterwasoneofaScotchwomanwho，onbeinginformedofthechangemadebytherevisersintheLord’sPrayer，——namely，"anddeliverusfromtheevilone，"——said，"Idoothe’llbesairuplifted。"MahaffygavedrollaccountsofWhately，ArchbishopofDublin。OneofthesehadasitsheroacountryclergymanwhocametoaskWhatelyforalivingwhichhadjustbecomevacant。Thearchbishop，thinkingtohavealittlefunwithhisguest，said，"Ofcourse，firstofall，Imustknowwhatyourchurchpoliticsare:areyouanattitudinarian，alatitudinarian，oraplatitudinarian？"Towhichtheparsonreplied，"ThankGod，yourGrace，IamnotanArianatallatall，ifthat’swhatyemane。"ThepointofthislayinthefactthatamongthechargesconstantlymadebytheHigh—churchpartyagainstWhatelywasthatofsecretUnitarianism。ButthereplysoamusedWhatelythathebestowedthelivingontheoldparsonatonce。MahaffyalsosaidthatwhenArchbishopTrench，whowasamanexceedinglymindfuloftheproprietiesoflife，arrivedinDublinheassuredMahaffythatheintendedtofollowinallthingstheexampleofhiseminentpredecessor，whereuponMahaffyanswered，"ShouldyourGracedoso，youwillinsummerfrequentlysitinyourshirtsleevesonthechainsinfrontofyourpalace，swingingtoandfro，andsmokingalongpipe。"
Someonecappedthiswithastorythat，onavisitoroncetellingWhatelyhowafriendofhisinaremotepartofIrelandhadsuchconfidenceinthepeopleabouthimthatheneverlockedhisdoors，thearchbishopquietlyreplied，"Somefinemorning，whenyourfriendwakes，hewillfindthatheistheonlyspoonleftinthehouse。"
December7。
ForseveraldaysvisitingattractiveplacesinLondon。OfmostinteresttomeweretalkswithLecky，thehistorian。HeespeciallylamentedGoldwinSmith’sexpatriation，andreferredtohisadmirablestyle，thoughregrettinghislackofcontinuityinhistoricalwork。ThoughanIrishmandevotedmostheartilytoIreland，LeckythoughtGladstone’shomerulepolicysuicidal。OnmytellinghimofOscarBrowning’sstudyofLouisXVI’sflighttoVarennes，hestoodupforCarlyle’sgeneralaccuracy。HelikedSirHenryMaine’sbook，butwassurprisedatsomuchpraisefor"TheFederalist，"sincehethoughtStory’s"Commentaries"muchbetter。HethoughtDraper’s"HistoryoftheIntellectualDevelopmentofEurope"showedtoomuchfondnessforverylargegeneralizations。HelikedHildreth’s"HistoryoftheUnitedStates"betterthanBancroft’s，andIarguedagainstthisview。
HepraisedBuckle’sstyle，andwhenIaskedhimregardinghisown"EighteenthCentury，"hesaiditwastobelongerthanhehadexpected。Astohis"EuropeanMorals，"hesaidthatitmustberecastbeforeitcouldbecontinued。ReturningtothesubjectofhomeruleinIreland，hesaiditwassuretoleadtoreligiouspersecutionandconfiscation。Hespeaksinaverylow，gentlevoice，istallandawkward，buthasaverykindface，andpleasesmegreatly。DuringmystayinLondonIdidsomeworkintheBritishMuseumonsubjectswhichinterestedme，andatavisittoMaskelyneandCooke’sgreattempleofjuggleryinPiccadillysawadisplaywhichsetmethinking。Fewmiracle—mongershaveeverperformedanyfeatssowonderfulasthosethereaccomplished;themenandwomenwhotakesuchpleasureinattributingspiritualandsupernaturalorigintothecheapjuggleryof"mediums"shouldseethisperformance。
CHAPTERLIII
FRANCE，ITALY，ANDSWITZERLAND——1886—1887
NewYear’sdayof1886foundmywifeandmyselfagaininParis;
and，duringourstayofnearlyafortnightthere，wemetvariousinterestingpersons——amongthemMr。McLane，theAmericanministeratthatpost，whomIhadlastseen，overthirtyyearsbefore，whenwecrossedtheoceantogether——hethengoingasministertoChina，andIasattachetoSt。Petersburg。HisdiscussionsbothofAmericanandFrenchpoliticswereinteresting;butafarmoresuggestivetalkerwasMme。BlazedeBury。ThoughaFrenchwoman，shewassaidtobeadaughterofLordBrougham;hisportraithungaboveherchairinthesalon，andshecertainlyshowedaversatilityworthyofthefamousphilosopherandstatesman，ofwhomitwassaid，whenhewasappointedchancellor，thatifheonlyknewalittlelawhewouldknowalittleofeverything。Sheapparentlyknewnotonlyeverything，buteverybody，andaboundedinrevelationsandprophecies。
OnthewayfromParistotheRivieraweencounteredatLyonsverycoldweather，and，givingmywrapstomywife，Ihurriedoutintothestationintheevening，boughtofanews—venderamassofoldnewspapers，and，havingswathedmyselfinthese，wentthroughthenightcomfortably，althoughourcoupewasexposedtoamostpiercingwind。
ArrivingatCannes，wefoundJamesBryceoftheEnglishParliament，BaronGeorgevonBunsenoftheGermanParliament，andLordActon（sinceprofessorofhistoryattheUniversityofCambridge），allinterestingmen，butthelatterpeculiarlyso:
thenearestapproachtoomniscienceIhaveeverseen，withthepossibleexceptionofTheodoreParker。AnotherpersonwhoespeciallyattractedmewasSirCharlesMurray，formerlyBritishministeratLisbonandDresden。HisfirstwifewasanAmerican，——MissWadsworthofGeneseo，——andhehadtraveledmuchinAmerica——oncethroughtheAdirondackswithGovernorSeymourofNewYork，ofwhomhespokemostkindly。DiscussingtheEasternQuestion，hesaidthatanynation，exceptRussia，mighthaveConstantinople;hegavereminiscencesofoldKingJohnofSaxony，whowasveryscholarly，butthelastmanintheworldtobeaking。MostcharmingofallwerehisreminiscencesofTalleyrand。
ThebestthingsduringmystayweremywalksandtalkswithLordActon，whowasfullofinformationatfirsthandregardingGladstoneandotherleadersbothinEnglandandontheContinent。
AlthoughaRomanCatholic，hespokehighlyofFraser，lateAnglicanBishopofManchester。AstoAmericans，hehadknownCharlesSumnerinAmerica，buthadnotformedahighopinionofhim，evidentlythinkingthatthesenatororatedtoomuch;hehadwithhimalargecollectionofbooks，selected，doubtless，fromhistwolargelibraries，inLondonandintheTyrol，andwiththisheastonishedoneasdoesajugglerwho，fromasinglesmallbottle，poursoutanykindofwinedemanded。Forexample，oneday，Bunsen，Bryce，andmyselfbeingwithhim，thefirst—namedsaidsomethingregardingacuriousphilologicaltractbyBernays，putforthwhenBunsenwasastudentatGottingen，butnowentirelyoutofprint。AtthisLordActonwenttooneofhisshelves，tookdownthisraretract，andhandedittous。So，too，duringoneofourwalks，thetalkhappeningtofallupononeofmyheroes，FraPaoloSarpi，Iaskedhowitwasthat，whileintheoldchurchontheLagoonatVeniceIhadatthreedifferentvisitssoughtSarpi’sgraveinvain，IhadatthelastvisitfounditjustwhereIhadlookedforitbefore。AtthishegavemeamostinterestingaccountoftheoppositionofPopeGregoryXVI——who，beforehiselevationtothepapacy，hadbeenabbotofthemonastery——toSarpi’sburialwithinitssacredprecincts，andofthecompromiseunderwhichhisburialwasallowed。Thiscompromisewasthathisbones，whichhadsolongbeenkeptintheducallibrarytoprotectthemfromclericalhatred，mightbeburiedinthechurchontheisland，providedSarpiwere，duringtheceremonies，honoredsimplyasthediscovererofthecirculationoftheblood，——whichheprobablywasnot，——andnothonoredasthegreateststatesmanofVenice——whichhecertainlywas。This，asIthensupposed，closedthesubject;butintheafternoonaservantcameover，bringingmefromLordActonamostinterestingcollectionoforiginalmanuscriptsrelatingtoSarpi，——alargepartofthembeingthecorrespondencebetweenthepapalauthoritiesandtheVenetianswhohadwishedtogiveSarpi’sbonesdecentburial，overhalfacenturybefore。InowfoundthatthereasonwhyIhadnotdiscoveredthegravewasthatthemonks，aslongastheywereallowedcontrol，hadpersistedinbreakingupthetabletbearingtheinscription;thattheycouldnotdisturbthebonesforthereasonthatSarpi’sadmirershadinclosedtheminalargeandstrongironbox，anchoringitsothatitwasverydifficulttoremove;butthatsincethedeathofthelatepatriarchandtheabolitionofmonkishpowertheinscriptionoverthegravehadbeenallowedtoremainundisturbed。
Duringanotherofourmorningwalksthediscussionhavingfallenonwitchcraftpersecution，LordActoncalledintheafternoonandbroughtmeaninterestingadditiontomycollectionofcuriousbooksonthatsubject——avolumebyChristianThomasius。
OnanotherofourexcursionsIaskedhimregardingtheCongregationoftheIndexatRome，anditsprocedure。TothisheansweredthatindividualsorcommissionsareappointedtoexaminespecialworksandreportsthereupontotheCongregation，whichthenallowsorcondemnsthem，asmayseembest;andImarveledmuchwhen，intheafternoonofthatday，hesentmespecimensofsuchoriginalreportsonvariousbooks。
HeagreedwithmethatthepapalcondemnationofVictorHugo’s"LesMiserables"wasamistakeasamatterofpolicy——asgreatamistake，indeed，ashundredsandthousandsofothercondemnationshadbeen。OfPopeLeoXIIIhespokewithrespect，givingmeanaccountoftheveryliberalconcessionsmadebyhimattheVaticanlibrary，sothatitisnowfreelyopenedtoProtestants，whereasitwasformerlykeptcloselyshut。AtalaterperiodthiswasconfirmedtomebyDr。PhilipSchaff，theeminentProtestantchurchhistorian，whotoldmethatformerlyattheVaticanlibraryhewasonlyallowed，asaspecialfavor，tolookatthefamousCodex，withanattendantwatchinghimeverymoment;
whereasafterPopeLeoXIIIcameintocontrolhewaspermittedtostudytheCodexandtakenotesfromitathisease。
InanotherofhiswalksLordActondiscussedGladstone，whomhegreatlyadmired，butpointedoutsomecuriouspeculiaritiesinthegreatstatesmanandchurchman，——amongthese，thatheworshipedthememoryofArchbishopLaudanddetestedthememoryofWilliamIII。
VeryinterestingweresundrylittledinnersonSaturdayeveningsattheCercleNautique，atwhichIfoundnotonlyLordActon，butSirHenryKeating，aretiredEnglishjudge;GeneralPalfrey，whohaddistinguishedhimselfinourCivilWar;andafewothergoodtalkers。AtoneofthesedinnersSirHenrystartedthequestion:
"Whowasthegreatestmanthateverlived？"LordActongaveveryinterestingargumentsinfavorofNapoleon，whileIdidmybestinfavorofCaesar;myargumentbeingthatthesystemwhichCaesarfoundedmaintainedtheRomanEmpireduringnearlyfifteenhundredyearsafterhisdeath;thatitsfundamentalideasandfeatureshaveremainedeffectiveinvariousgreatnationsuntilthepresentday;andthattheyhaveinourowncenturyshownthemselvesmorevigorousthanever。LordActoninsistedthatwehavenomeansofknowingtheprocessesofCaesar’smind;thatweknowthemodeofthinkingofonlytwoancients，SocratesandCicero;thatpossibly，ifweknewmoreofShakspere’smentalprocesses，thepreeminencemightbeclaimedforhim，butthatweknownothingofthemsavefromhiswritings;whileweknowNapoleon’sthoroughlyfromthevastcollectionsofmemoirs，statepapers，orders，conversations，etc。，aswellasinhisamazingdealingswiththeproblemsofhistime;thatthescopeandpowerofNapoleon’smentalprocessesseemalmostpreternaturalandofthishegavevariousremarkableproofs。Hearguedthatconsiderationsofmoralcharacterandaims，aselementsingreatness，mustbeleftoutofsuchadiscussion;thattheintellectualprocessesandtheirresultswereallthatwecouldreallyestimateincomparingmen。SirHenryKeatingobservedthathisfather，anofficerintheBritisharmy，wasvastlyimpressedbythesightofNapoleonatSt。Helena;whereuponLordActonremarkedthatThiersacknowledgedtoGuizot，whotoldLordActon，thatNapoleonwas"unscelerat。"ThatseemedtomearatherstrongwordtobeusedbyamanwhohaddonesomuchtorevivetheNapoleoniclegendLordActonalsoquotedawell—authenticatedstory——vouchedforbytwopersonswhomhenamed，oneofthembeingtheCountdeFlahaut，whowaspresentandheardtheremark——thatwhentheimperialguardsbrokeatWaterloo，Napoleonsaid，"IthasalwaysbeensosinceCrecy。"
TowardtheendofFebruarywewentontoFlorence，andtheremet，frequently，Villari，thehistorian;Mantegazzi;andotherleadingFlorentines。MentionbeingmadeoftheJesuitFatherCurci，whohadrebelledagainstwhatheconsideredthefatalinfluenceofJesuitismonthepapacy，Villarithoughthimtooscholastictohaveanyrealinfluence。OfSettembrinihespokehighlyasanoblecharacterandvaluablecritic，thoughwithnopermanentplaceinItalianliterature。HeexcusedthetardinessofItaliansinputtingupstatuestoGiordanoBrunoandFraPaoloSarpi，sincetheyhadsomanyotherrecentstatuestoputup。AsIlookbackuponthisconversation，itisapleasuretorememberthatI
havelivedtoseeboththesestatues——thatofBruno，ontheplaceinRomewherehewasburnedalive，andthatofSarpi，ontheplaceinVenicewheretheassassinssentbyPopePaulVlefthimfordead。
EarlyinMarchwearrivedinNaples，goingpiouslythroughtheoldsightswehadseenseveraltimesbefore。RevisitingAmalfi，I
sawthearchbishoppontificatingatthecathedral:hewasthefinest—lookingprelateIeversaw，remindingmeamazinglyofmyoldprofessor，SillimanofYale。Then，duringthestayofsomeweeksinSorrento，ItookasanItalianteacheracharmingoldpadre，whoreadhismasseverymorninginoneofthechurchesanddevotedtherestofthedaytoliterature。Hewasatheartliberal，anditwasfromhimthatIreceivedacopyofthefamous"Politico—PhilosophicalCatechism，"adoptedbyArchbishopApuzzoofSorrento，thanwhich，probably，nothingmoredefiantofmoralprincipleswaseverwritten。Thearchbishophadbeenmadeby"KingBomba"tutortohisson，andnowonderthattheyoungmanwasfinallykickedignominiouslyoffhisthrone，andhiscountryannexedtotheItaliankingdom。Thiscatechism，writtenyearsbeforebytheelderLeopardi，butadoptedandpromotedbythearchbishop，wasdevotedtomaintainingtherighteousnessofallthatsystemofextremedespotism，oath—breaking，defianceofnationalsentiment，andviolationsofordinarydecency，whichhadmadethekingdomofNaplesabywordduringsomanygenerations。
Thereinpatriotismwasprovedtobeadelusion;populareducationanabsurdity;observanceofthemonarch’sswornwordoppositiontodivinelaw;aconstitutionamereplaythinginthemonarch’shands;theBibleissteadilyquotedinbehalfof"therightdivineofkingstogovernwrong";andallthiswithamixtureofcynicismandunctuousnesswhichmakesthiscatechismoneofthemostremarkablepoliticalworksofmoderntimes。
AtthistimeImadeaninterestingacquaintancewithFrancisGalton，theeminentEnglishauthorityonheredity。Discussingdreams，hetoldmeastoryofaladywhosaidthatsheknewthatdreamscametrue;forshedreamedoncethatthenumber3drewaprizeinthelottery，andagainthatthenumber8drewit;andso，shesaid，"Imultipliedthemtogether，3X8=27，boughtaticketbearingthelatternumber，andwontheprize。"
VeryinterestingweremymeetingswithMarionCrawford，theauthor。Nothingcouldbemoredelightfulthanhisvillaandsurroundings，andhisaccountsofItalianlifewerefascinating，asonewouldexpectafterreadinghisnovels。AnothernewacquaintancewasMr。Mayall，anEnglishmicroscopist;hegavemeaccountsofhisvisittotheLouvrewithHerbertSpencer，who，afterlookingsteadilyatthe"ImmaculateConception"ofMurillo，said"Icannotlikeapaintedfigurethathasnovisiblemeansofsupport。"
OnmyreturnnorthwardIvisitedthemostfamousofChristianmonasteries，——thecradleoftheBenedictineorder，——MonteCassino，andtheremetayoungEnglishnovice，whointroducedmetovariousBenedictinefathers，especiallysundryGermanswhoweredecoratingwithByzantinefiguresthelowerstory，nearthealtarofSt。Benedict。AtdinnertheyoungmanagreedwithmethatitmightbewelltohaveaBenedictinecollegeatOxford，butthoughtthatanycollegeestablishedtheremustbecontrolledbytheJesuitorder。HeprofessedrespectfortheJesuits，butevidentlywithsomemistrustoftheirmethods。