Onmyaskingifhethoughthecouldbearthesevereruleofhisorder，especiallythatofrisingaboutfouro’clockinthemorningandretiringearlyintheevening，heansweredthatformerlyhefearedthathecouldnot，butthatnowhebelievedhecould。OnmytentativesuggestionthathecomeandestablishaBenedictineconventonCayugaLake，hetoldmethatheshouldprobablybesenttoScotland。
Therenownedoldmonasteryseemstobemindfulofitsbesttraditions，forithasestablishedwithinitswallsanadmirablyequippedprinting—house，inwhichIwasabletosecureforCornellUniversitycopiesofvariousbooksbylearnedBenedictines——someofthem，bythebeautyoftheirworkmanship，wellworthytobeplacedbesidetheilluminatedmanuscriptswhichformerlycamefromtheScriptoria。
AtRomeIwastakenaboutbyLanciani，theeminentarchaeologistincontroloftheexcavations，whoshowedmebeautifulthingsnewlydiscoveredandnowkeptintemporaryroomsneartheCapitol。Tomysurprise，hetoldmethatthereisabsolutelynoauthenticbustofCicerodatingfromhistime;butthiswasafterwarddeniedbyStory，theAmericansculptor，whopointedouttomeacastofoneinhisstudio。StoryspokegloomilyoftheconditionofItaly，sayingthatformerlytherewerenotaxes，butthatnowthetaxesarecrushing。HeaddedthatthegreatestmistakemadebythepresentPopewasthat，duringthecholeraatNaples，heremainedinRome，whileKingHumbertwentimmediatelytothatcity，visitedthehospitals，cheeredthecholera—stricken，comfortedthem，andsuppliedtheirwants。
OnEasterSundayIsawCardinalHowardcelebratehighmassinSt。
Peter’s。HehadbeenanEnglishguardsman，wasmagnificentlydressed，andwastheveryidealofaproudprelate。Theaudienceintheimmediateneighborhoodofthealtarwerenonetooreverential，andinotherpartsofthechurchwerewalkingaboutandtalkingasifinamarket;allofthisirreverenceremindingmeofthehighmasswhichIhadseencelebratedbyPopePiusIX
atthesamealtaronEasterdayof1856。
Callingontheformerprimeminister，Minghetti，whohadbeenanassociateofCavour，Ifoundhimveryinteresting，aswasalsoSambuy，senatorofthekingdomandsyndicofTurin，whowaswithhim。MinghettisaidthattheItalianschoolsystemwasnotyetsatisfactory，thoughyoungmenaredoingwellinadvancedscientific，mathematical，historical，andeconomicstudies。OnmyspeakingofastatisticalmapinmypossessionwhichrevealedtheenormouspercentageofpersonswhocanneitherreadnorwriteinthosepartsofItalymostdirectlyundertheinfluenceofthechurch，hesaidthatmatterswereslowlyimprovingunderthenewregime。HespokewithrespectofLeoXIII，sayingthathewasnotsobitterinhisutterancesagainstItalyasPiusIXhadbeen。
DiscussingBismarckandCavour，hesaidthatbothwereeminentlypractical，butthatCavouradheredtocertainprinciples，suchasfreetrade，freedomofthechurch，andthelike，whereasBismarckwaswonttotakeupanyprinciplewhichwouldservehistemporarypurpose。Minghettihopedmuch，eventually，fromCavour’sideaoftoleration，andspokewithpraiseofthechecksputbytheAmericanConstitutiononunbridleddemocracy，whereuponIquotedtohimtheremarkofGovernorSeymourinNewYork，themosteminentofrecentDemocraticcandidatesforthePresidency，totheeffectthatthemeritofourConstitutionisnotthatitpromotesdemocracy，butthatitchecksit。MinghettispokeofSirHenryMaine’sbookon"FreeGovernment"withmuchpraise;inspiteofitsanti—democratictendencies，ithadevidentlyraisedhisopinionoftheAmericanConstitution。HealsopraisedAmericanscientificprogress。SambuysaidthatthepresentgrowthofthecityofRomeisespeciallydetestedbytheclergy，sinceitismakingthecitytoolargeforthemtocontrol;thattheirbitternessisnottobewonderedat，sincetheyclearlyseethat，nomatterwhatmayhappen，——evenifthekingdomofItalyweretobedestroyedto—morrow，——itwouldbeabsolutelyimpossiblefortheoldregimeofPope，cardinals，andpriestseveragaintogovernthecity;thatwiththisincreaseofthepopulation，anditslongexerciseofpoliticalpower，theresumptionoftemporalpowerbythePopeisanutterimpossibility;thatevenifrevolutionoranarchycame，thepeoplewouldneveragaintakerefugeunderthepapacy。
VeryinterestingweresundrygatheringsattheroomsofStory，thesculptor。MeetingtheretheBrazilianministeratthepapalcourt，IwasamazedbyhisstatementsregardingtherulesrestrictingintercoursebetweendiplomatistsaccreditedtotheVaticanandthoseaccreditedtotheQuirinal;hesaidthatalthoughtheministerfromhiscountrytotheQuirinalwasoneofhisbestfriends，hewasnotallowedtoacceptaninvitationfromhim。
TheAmericanminister，JudgeStalloofCincinnati，seemedtomeanadmirableman，inspiteofthestoriescirculatedbyvarioushostilecliques。AtthehouseoftheBritishambassadorStallospokeinaveryinterestingwayofCardinalHohenloheasfarabovehisfellowsandcapableofmakingagreatpope。ThepoliticaldifficultiesinItaly，hesaid，wereverygreat，and，greatestofall，inNaplesandSicily。Diningwithhim，ImetmyoldfriendHoffmann，rectoroftheUniversityofBerlin，andanumberofeminentItalianmenofscience，senators，andothers。
AtthehouseofDr。Nevin，rectoroftheAmericanEpiscopalchurch，ImettheDutchminister，whocorroboratedmyopinionthattheBritishparliamentarysystemgenerallyworksbadlyintheContinentalcountries，sinceitcausesconstantlyrecurringchangesinministers，andpreventsanypropercontinuityofstateaction，andhenaturallyalludedtotheconditionofthingsinFranceasanexample。
Amongotherinterestingpeople，ImettheabbotofSt。PaulOutsidetheWalls，towhomLordActon，inresponsetomyquestionastowhethertherewassuchathingasa"learnedBenedictine"
extant，hadgivenmealetterofintroduction。ThegoodabbotturnedouttobeanIrishmanwithsomeofthemoreinterestingpeculiaritiesofhisrace;buthisconversationwasmorevividthanilluminating。HehadreviewedvariousbooksfortheCongregationoftheIndex，oneofthese，abookwhichIhadjustbought，beingon"TheArchitectureofSt。JohnLateran。"HeheldapositioninthePropaganda，andIwasgreatlystruckbyhisminuteknowledgeofaffairsintheUnitedStates。ThequestionbeingthenundecidedastowhetheranewbishopricforcentralNewYorkwastobeestablishedatUticaorSyracuse，hediscussedbothplaceswithmuchminuteknowledgeoftheirclaimsandofthepeopleresidinginthem。IputinthebestwordIcouldforSyracuse，feelingthatifabishopricwastobeestablished，thatwastheproperplaceforit;andafterwardIhadthesatisfactionoflearningthatthebishophadbeenplacedthere。TheabbothadknownSecretarySewardandlikedhim。
LeavingRomeinMay，wemadevisitsofdeepinteresttoAssisi，Perugia，Orvieto，andotherhistorictownsand，arrivingatFlorenceagain，sawsomethingofsocietyinthatcity。CountdeGubernatis，theeminentscholar，whohadjustreturnedfromIndia，waseloquentinpraiseoftheTajMahal，which，ofallbuildingsintheworld，istheoneImostdesiretosee。HethinksthatthestoriesregardingjugglinginIndiahavebeenmarvelouslydevelopedbytransmissionfromEasttoWest;thatgrowingthemango，ofwhichsomuchissaid，isaverypoortrick，asisalsothecrushing，killing，andrestorationtolifeofaboyunderabasket;thatthesemarvelsarenotatallwhatthestoriesreportthemtobe;thatitissimplyanothercaseoftherapidgrowthoflegendsbytransmission。HesaidthathatredforEnglandremainsdeepinIndia，andthatcastespiritisverylittlealtered，hisownservant，evenwhenverythirsty，notdaringtodrinkfromabottlewhichhismasterhadtouched。
DiningwithCountRessiathisnoblevillaontheslopetowardFiesole，InotedvariousdeliciousItalianwinesuponthetable，butthechampagnewaswhatisknownas"PleasantValleyCatawba，"
fromLakeKeukainwesternNewYork，whichthecount，duringhisjourneytoNiagara，hadfoundsogoodthathehadshippedaquantityofittoFlorence。
AveryinterestingmanIfoundintheMarquisAlfieriSostegno，vice—presidentoftheSenate，——amannotedforhishighcharacterandhiswritings。Heisthefounderofthenew"SchoolforPoliticalandSocialStudies，"andgavememuchinformationregardingit。Hisfamilyisofmediaevalorigin，butheisaliberaloftheCavoursort。Preferringconstitutionalmonarchy，butthinkingdemocracyinevitable，heasks，"ShallitbeademocracylikethatofFrance，excludingallreallyleadingmenfrompower，orademocracyinfluenceddirectlybyitsbestmen？"
Inhisschoolhehasattemptedtotrainyoungmeninthepracticalknowledgeneededinpublicaffairs，andhopesthustopreparethemfortheinevitablefuture。Thiscollegehasencounteredmuchoppositionfromthelocaluniversities，butismakingitsway。
AnothermanofthegrandoldItaliansortwasPeruzzi，syndicofFlorence，aformerassociateofCavour，andoneoftheleadingmenofItaly。Callingformewithtwoothersenators，hetookmetohiscountryvilla，whichhasbeeninthepossessionofthefamilyforoverfourhundredyears，andthereIdinedwithaverydistinguishedcompany。Everythingwaslargeandpatriarchal，butsimple。Thediscussions，bothattableandafterward，aswesatupontheterracewithitswonderfuloutlookoveroneoftherichestpartsofTuscany，mainlyrelatedtoItalianmatters。Allseemedhopefulofareasonablesolutionoftheclericaldifficulty。Mostinterestingwashiswife，DonnaEmilia，wellknownforherbrilliantpowersofdiscussionandherbeautifulqualitiesasahostessbothatthePeruzzipalaceinFlorenceandinthisvilla，whereonemeetsmenoflightandleadingfromeverypartoftheworld。
FromFlorencewewentontotheItalianlakes，stayingespeciallyatBaveno，Lugano，andCadenabbia。EspeciallyinterestingtomewerethescenesdepictedinthefirstpartofManzoni’s"PromessiSposi。"AneminentItaliantoldmeatthistimethatManzonineverforgavehimselfforhishumorousdelineationsofthepriestDonAbbondio，whofiguresinthesescenesafterasomewhatundignifiedfashion。InterestingalsowasavisittothetombofRosmini，withitsportrait—statuebyVela，inthemonasterylookingoverthemostbeautifulpartoftheLagoMaggiore。ThencebytheSt。GotthardtoZurich，wherewevisitedmyoldcolleague，ColonelRoth，theSwissministeratBerlin。VerysimpleandcharmingwashisfamilylifeatTeufen。InthelibraryInoticedacuriousshield，anduponitseveralswords，eachwithaninscription;and，onmyaskingregardingthem，IwastoldthattheyweretheofficialswordsofColonelRoth’sgreat—grandfather，grandfather，father，andhimself，eachofwhomhadbeenLandammanofthecanton。HetoldmethatasLandammanhepresidedfromtimetotimeoverapopularassemblyofseveralthousandpeople;thatitwasarepublicsuchasRousseauadvocated，——allthepeoplecomingtogetherandvoting，by"yes"
and"no"andshowingofhands，ontheproposalsoftheLandammanandhiscouncil。Drivingthroughthecanton，Ifoundthat，whilenoneofthepeoplewererich，fewwereverypoor，andthattheCatholicwasmuchbehindtheProtestantpartinthriftandprosperity。
MyloveforhistoricalstudiesinterestedmegreatlyinavisittotheAbbeyofSt。Gall。Themediaevalbuildingsarevirtuallygone，andamassofrocococonstructionshavetakentheirplace。
Gone，too，inthemain，isthefamouslibraryofthemiddleages;
buttheeminenthistorianandarchivist，HenneAmRhyn，showedmetheancientcataloguedatingfromthedaysofCharlemagne，andoneortwooftheoldmanuscriptsreferredtoinit，whichhavedonedutyformorethanathousandyears。ThenfollowedmysecondvisittotheEngadine，reachedbytwodays’drivinginthemountainsfromCoire;andduringmystayatSt。MoritzImadetheacquaintanceofmanyinterestingpeople，——amongthemAdmiralIrvineoftheBritishnavy。SpeakingofthethenrecentsinkingoftheCunarderOregon，heexpressedtheopinionthatasquadronofseven—hundred—tonvesselswithbeakscouldbestdefendaharborfromironclads;andinsupportofthiscontentionhecitedanexperienceofhisownasshowingtheefficiencyofthebeakinnavalwarfare。AfewyearsbeforehehadanchoredinthePiraeus，hisship，anironclad，havingabeakprojectingfromthebow，ofcourseunderwater。NoticingaGreekbrignearinghim，hemadesignalstohertokeepwelloff;butthecaptainofthebrig，resentingthisinterference，andkeepingstraighton，endeavoredtopass，atadistancewhich，nodoubt，seemedtohimperfectlysafe，infrontofthebowsoftheironclad。Theadmiralsaidthatnottheslightestshockwasfeltonboardhisownvessel;butthebrigsankalmostimmediately。Shehadbarelygrazedtheendofthebeak。AtanothertimetheadmiralspokeoftheadvanceoftheBritishfleet，inwhichheheldacommand，uponConstantinoplein1878。TheBritishGovernmentsupposedthattheTurkshadvirtuallygoneovertotheRussians，andthefirstorderwastotaketheTurkishfortressesatConstantinopleimmediately;butthisorderwasafterwardwithdrawn，andthematteratissuewassettledintheensuingEuropeanconference。
ItwasapleasuretofindatthisAlpineresortmyoldfriendStorythesculptor。HegaveusacomicalaccountofthepresentationattheVaticanofMr。GeorgePeabodybyMr。WinthropofBoston。ReferringtoMr。Peabody’smunificencetovariousinstitutionsforaidingtheneedy，andespeciallyorphans，Mr。
Winthrop，inapleasantvein，presentedhisfriendtoPopePiusIXasagentlemanwho，thoughunmarried，hadhundredsofchildren;whereuponthePope，takinghimliterally，helduphishandsandanswered，"Fidonc！fidonc！"
OurstayatSt。MoritzwasendedbyaseveresnowstormearlyinAugust。Thatwastoomuch。IhadleftAmericamainlytoescapesnow;mytravelingallthisdistancewascertainlynotforthepurposeoffindingitagain;andso，havinghuggedthestoveforadayortwo，Idecidedtoreturntoamilderclimate。PassingbyVevey，wevisitedourfriendstheBrunnowsattheirbeautifulvillaontheshoreofLakeLeman，wheremyoldpresidentattheUniversityofMichigan，Dr。Tappan，haddied，anditwaswithamelancholysatisfactionthatIvisitedhisgraveinthecemeteryhardby。
StoppingatGenevaoverSunday，IobservedattheCathedralofSt。Peter，Calvin’soldchurch，thatthesermonandservicecarefullysteeredclearoftheslightestTrinitarianformula，asdidthechurchesinSwitzerlandgenerally。ConsideringthatCalvinhadburnedServetusinthatverycityforhisdisbeliefinthedoctrineoftheTrinity，thisomissionwouldseemenoughtomakethatsternreformerturninhisgrave。ReturningtoParis，I
againmetLecky，whowasmakingashortvisittotheFrenchcapital;and，aswewerebreakfastingtogetherMme。BlazedeBurybeingpresent，ourconversationfellonParisianmobs。SheinsistedthatthestudiedinactionofthepapalnuncioduringtheCommunecausedthemurderofDarboy，ArchbishopofParis，whowashatedbytheextremeclericalpartyonaccountofhiscoolnesstowardinfallibilityandsundryotherdogmasadvocatedbytheJesuits。LeckythoughtLordActon’soldarticleinthe"NorthBritishReview"thebeststatementyetmadeontheSt。
BartholomewmassacreThediscussionhavingveeredtowardtheJewishquestion，whichwaseventhenrising，LeckysaidthatShakspereprobablyneversawaJew——thatJewswerenotallowedinEnglandinhistime，theonlyexceptionsbeingQueenElizabeth’sphysicianand，perhaps，afewothers。
DuringthelatterpartofSeptemberIstartedonanarchitecturaltourthroughtheeastofFrance，andwasmorethaneverfascinatedbythebeautyofallIfoundatSoissons，Laon，Chalons，Troyes，andRheims，thecathedralatthelatterplaceseemingevenmoregrandthanwhenIlastsawit。Ihaveneverbeenabletodecidefinallywhichisthemorenoble——AmiensorRheims;mytemporarydecisionbeinggenerallyinfavorofthatoneofthetwowhichIhaveseenlast。ButIfoundiniquitytriumphant:the"restorers"hadbeenatwork，andhadapparentlydonetheirworst。Agreatscaffoldingcoveredthesuperbrose—windowofthewestfront，perhapsthefinestofitskindinChristendom，and，inalittlebookpublishedbyoneofthecanons，Isoonlearnedthereason。Itappearsthatthearchitectsuperintendingthe"restoration"haddugadeepwellatonecornerofoneofthemassivetowersforthepurposeofinspectingthefoundations;thathehadforgottentofillthiswell;andthat，duringthewinter，thewaterfromtheroofs，havingcomedownintoitandfrozen，hadupheavedthetoweratonecorner，withtheresultofcrumblingandcrackingthisimmensewindowadjacent。
AtTroyesitwashardlybetter。Itisacitywhichprobablyneverhadsixtythousandinhabitants，andyetherearefourofthemostmagnificentarchitecturalmonumentsinEurope。Buttheworkwroughtuponthemunderthepretextof"restoration"wasnolessatrociousthanthatuponthecathedralatRheims，andofthisI
havegivenanexampleelsewhere。[13]
[13]SeeChapterXXI。
Continuingmywayhomeward，IstoppedafewdaysinLondon。FrommydiaryIselectanaccountofthesermonpreachedinoneoftheprincipalchurchesofthecitybyDr。Temple，——thenbishopofLondon，butlaterarchbishopofCanterbury，——beforethelordmayor，ladymayoress，andothernotablepeople。Thesermonwasastrikingexhibitionofplaincommonsense，withoutoneparticleofwhatisgenerallyknownasspirituality。Thetextwas，"Freelyyehavereceived，freelygive，"andtheargumentsimplywasthatthecongregationworshipinginthatoldchurchhadreceivedallitsprivilegesfromcontributionsmadecenturiesbefore，andthatitwasnowtheirduty，intheirturn，tocontributemoneyfornewcongregationsconstantlyarisinginthenewpopulationofLondon。
Ofspiritualgiftstobeacknowledgednothingwassaid。IntheafternoontookteawithLecky，andonmyreferringtoEarlRussell，hespokeofhimaswonderfulingettingatthecenterofanargument。OfCarlylehesaidthatheknewhiminhislastdaysintimately，oftenwalkingwithhim;butthathismindfailedhimsadly;thatthelastthingLeckyreadhimwasaselectionfromBurns’sletters;andthatCarlyle，whenlefttohimself，oftentoneddownhisharshjudgmentsofmen。Athisfuneral，inScotland，Leckywaspresent，and，judgingfromhisaccount，itwasoneofthemostdismalthingseverknown。SpeakingofAmerica，LeckysaidthatCarlylewasreallydeeplyattachedtoEmerson;andheaddedthatDeanStanley，onhisreturnfromAmerica，toldhimthatthebestthingshefoundthereweretheprivatelibraries，andtheworstthenewspapers。LeckythoughtAmericansmorepronetogivethemselvesuptoapurelyliterarylifethanaretheEnglish，andcitedPrescott，Irving，andothers。Hespokeof"TheClub，"ofwhichheisamember。ItisthattowhichSirJoshuaReynolds，Dr。Johnson，Burke，andGoldsmithbelonged;itsmembersdinetogethereveryfortnight;
oneblackballexcludes。SpeakingofGladstone，hethoughtthathehadgreatlydeclinedasaspeakeroflateyears，andthatnoonehadhadsuchpowerincloudingtruthandobscuringafact。
ReturningtoAmerica，IagainsettledinmyoldquartersatCornellUniversity，hopingtodevotemyselfquietlytotheworkI
hadinhand。Myoldhomeonthecampushadanespecialcharmforme，andIhadbeguntotakeuptheoccupationstowhichI
purposedtodevotetherestofmylife，whentherecameuponmethegreatestofallcalamities——thelossofherwhohadbeenforthirtyyearsmymaininspirationandsupportinalldifficulties，cares，andtrials。Forthetimeallwaslost。InallcalamitieshithertoIhadtakenrefugeinwork;butnowthereseemednomotiveforwork，andatlast，foracompletechangeofscene，I
returnedtoEurope，determinedtogivemyselftothepreparationofmy"HistoryoftheWarfareofSciencewithTheology。"
CHAPTERLIV
EGYPT，GREECE，ANDTURKEY——1888—1889
Whileundertheinfluenceofthegreatestsorrowthathaseverdarkenedmylife，therecametomeacalamityofalesspainfulsort，yetoneofthemosttryingthatIhaveeverknown。Alongcourseofmistakenuniversitypolicy，whichIhaddonemybesttochange，andtheconsequencesofwhichIhadespeciallyexertedmyselftoavert，atlastboreitsevilfruit。Onthe13thofJune，1888，IwaspresentatthesessionoftheCourtofAppealsatSaratoga，andthereheardtheargumentinthesuitbroughttopreventtheinstitutionfromtakingnearlytwomillionsofdollarsbequeathedbyMrs。WillardFiske。Ihadlookedforwardtothedevelopmentofthegreatlibraryforwhichitprovidedastheculminatingeventinmyadministration，and，indeed，asthebeginningofabettererainAmericanscholarship。NeverinthehistoryoftheUnitedStateshadsosplendidabequestbeenmadeforsuchapurpose。ButasIheardtheargumentIwassatisfiedthatourcausewaslost，——andsimplyfromthewantofeffectivechampions;thatthisgreatopportunityfortheinstitutionwhichIlovedbetterthanmylifehadpassedfromusduringmylifetime，atleast;andthenitwasthatIdeterminedtobreakfrommysurroundingsforatime，andtoseeknewsceneswhichmightdosomethingtochangethecurrentofmythoughts。
AttheendofJune，takingwithmemynephew，abrightandactivecollegeyouth，IsailedforGlasgow，and，revisitingthescenesmadebeautifultomebyWalterScott，Iwasatlastabletothinkofsomethingbesidethesorrowanddisappointmentwhichhadbesetme。MemorabletomestillisasermonheardattheoldChurchofSt。Giles，inEdinburgh。Thetextwas，"Hewistnotthathisfaceshone，"andtheargument，whilebroadandliberal，wasdeeplyreligious。Onethoughtstruckmeforcibly。Thepreacherlikenedtheologicalcontroversiestostormsonthecoastwhichresultonlyinheapsofsand，whilehecomparedreligiousinfluencestothedewandgentlerainswhichbeautifytheearthandfructifyit。
HealingintheirinfluencesuponmewerevisitstothecathedraltownsbetweenEdinburghandLondon。TheatmosphereofDurham，York，Lincoln，Ely，Peterborough，aidedtoliftmeoutofmydepression。IneachIstayedlongenoughtoattendthecathedralserviceandtoenjoythearchitecture，themusic，andmyrecollectionsofpreviousvisits。AtLichfieldCathedralIheardBach’s"EasterHymn"givenbeautifully，——anditwasneededtomakeupforthesermonofacolonialbishopwho，havingreturnedtoEnglandafteralongstayinhisremotediocese，wasfearfullydepressedbytheliberaltendenciesofEnglishtheology。HisdiscoursewasonelongdiatribeagainstthetendencyinEnglandtowardbroad—churchmanship。Onepassagehadratheracomicaleffect。Hetold，pathetically，thestoryofaservant—girlwaitingonthetableofthelateArchbishopofCanterbury，who，afterhearingtheclergymenpresentdealingsomewhatfreelywiththedoctrineoftheTrinity，rushedoutintothepassageandrecitedloudlytheNiceneCreedtostrengthenherfaith。I，too，felttheneedofdoingsomethingtostrengthenmineafterthistirade，andfortunatelystrolledacrossthemeadowstothelittleChurchofSt。Chad，andtheretookpartinalovely"FlowerService，"endedbyaverysweet，kindlysermontothechildrenfromthefatherlyoldrectoroftheparish。Nothingcouldbebetterinitsway，andittookthetasteofthemorningsermonoutofmymouth。
OfvariousexperiencesinLondon，theoneofmostinteresttomewasavisittotheHouseofCommons，wheretheIrishHomeRulerswereattemptingtobaitMr。Balfour，thegovernmentleader。Oneafteranothertheyaroseandattackedhimbitterlyinallthemoodsandtenses，withallegedfacts，insinuations，anddenunciations。Nothingcouldbebetterthanhiswayoftakingitall。Hesatquietly，lookingathisenemieswithaplacidsmile，andthen，whentheywerefullydone，rose，andbeforehehadspokenfiveminuteshisreplyhadtheeffectofamusket—shotuponabubble。Itwasevidentthatthesepatriotswerehardlytakenseriouslyevenbytheirownside，and，infact，didnottakethemselvesseriously。IthenrealizedasneverbeforetherealreasonswhytheoratoricalandotherdemonstrationsofIrishleadershaveaccomplishedsolittlefortheircountry。
ALiberalpoliticalmeetinginHolbornalsointerestedme。ThemainspeakerwasthesonoftheMarquisofNorthampton，EarlCompton，whowasstandingforParliament。Hisspeechwasallgood，butitsbestpointwashisanswertoamaninthecrowdwhoaskedhimifhewaspreparedtovotefortheabolitionoftheHouseofLords。Thatwouldseematryingquestiontotheheirofamarquisate;butheansweredinstantlyandcalmly:"AstotheHouseofLords，bettertryfirsttomendit，and，ifwecannotmendit，endit。"
HewasfollowedbyaHomeRuler，FatherMcFadden，whosespeech，beingsimplyanti—Britishrantfromendtoend，musthavecostmanyvotes;andIwasnotsurprisedwhen，adayortwoafterward，hisbishoprecalledhimtoIreland。
Verypleasingtomeweresundryexcursions。AtRugbyIwasintenselyinterestedinthescenesofArnold’sactivity。Hehadexercisedagreatinfluenceovermyownlife，andanewinspirationcameamidthescenessofamiliartohim，andespeciallyinthechapelwherehepreached。
VisitingsomeoldfriendsinHampshire，IdrovewiththemtoSelborne，stoodbythegraveofGilbertWhite，andsatinhischarmingoldhouseinthatbeautifulplaceofpilgrimage。
MostsoothinginitseffectuponmewasavisittoStokePogischurchyardandthegraveofThomasGray。The"Elegy"hasneversincemyboyhoodlostitsholduponme，andmyfeelingsofloveforitsauthorweredeepenedasIreadtheinscriptionplacedbyhimuponhismother’smonument:
"Thetendermotherofmanychildren，onlyoneofwhomhadthemisfortunetosurviveher。"
ASundayafternooninKensalGreencemetery，withavisittothegravesofThackeray，ThomasHood，andLeighHunt，rousedthoughtsonmanythings。
Somewhatlater，revisitingMr。Halliwell—Phillips’s"Bungalow"atBrighton，ImetathistablethemostbitterandyetoneofthemostjustofallcriticsofCarlylewhomIhaveeverknown。HespokeespeciallyofCarlyle’streatmentofhismainhistoricalauthorities，——manyofthemadmirableandexcellentmen，——anddweltonthefactthatCarlyle，havingusedtheresultsofthelife—workofthesescholars，thenenjoyedpouringcontemptandridiculeoverthem;healsoreferredtoCarlyle’saddresstotheScotchstudents，inwhichhetoldthemtostudythepatentsofnobilityforthedeedswhichmadethenobilityofEnglandgreat，butdidnotrevealtothemthefactthattheexpressionsinthesepatentswerestereotyped，andthesame，duringmanyyears，formenofthemostdifferentqualitiesandservices。
RunninguptoCambridgeforadayortwo，anddiningwithOscarBrowningatKing’sCollege，Iafterwardsawathisroomsacollectionofintenselyinterestingpapers，and，amongothers，reportsofBritishspiesduringtheRevolutionaryWarinAmerica。
Verycurious，amongthese，wasaletterfromtheBritishministeratBerlininthosedays，whodetailedaburglarywhichhehadcausedinthatcapitalinordertoobtainthepapersoftheAmericanenvoyandcopiesofAmericandespatches。ThecorrespondencealsoshowedthatFredericktheGreatwasmuchvexedatthewholematter;thattheBritishministryathomethoughttheirenvoytooenterprising;thathecamenearresigning;butthatthewholematterfinallyblewover。ThiswasbroughtbacktomesomewhatlateratadinneroftheRoyalHistoricalSociety，wherethepresident，LordAberdare，recalledastorybearingonthismatter。ItwasthatFredericktheGreatandtheBritishministerathiscourtgreatlydislikedeachother，andthatontheirmeetingonedaytheoldKingasked，"WhoisthisHyderAliwhoismakingyouBritishsomuchtroubleinIndia？"towhichtheboldBritonanswered:"Sire，heisonlyanoldtyrantwho，afterrobbinghisneighbors，isnowfallingintohisdotage"（"Sire，cen’estqu’unvieuxtyranqui，apresavoirpillesesvoisins，commencearadoter"）。
HavingmadewithmynephewarapidexcursionontheContinent，uptheRhine，andasfarasMunich，IreturnedtoseehimoffonhisreturnjourneytoAmerica，andthensettleddownforseveralweeksinLondon。Itwasintheearlyautumn，Parliamenthadadjourned，mostpeopleofnotehadlefttown，andIwaslefttomyselfascompletelyasifIhadbeeninthedepthsofaforest。
LookingoutoverTrafalgarSquarefrommypleasantroomsatMorley’sHotel，withallthehurryandbustleofagreatcitygoingonbeneathmywindow，Iwassimplyahermit，andnowfoundmyselfabletoresumetheworkwhichforsomanyyearshadoccupiedmyleisure。AttheBritishMuseumIenjoyedthewonderfulopportunitiestheregivenforinvestigation;andthere，too，Ifoundanadmirablehelperincertainlinesofwork——myfriendProfessorHudson，sinceofStanfordUniversity，California。
TheonlyplacewhereIwasatallintouchwiththeoutsideworldwasattheAthenaeumClub;butthemainattractiontherewasthelibrary。
Nowcameasuddenchangeinallmyplans。MyhealthhavingweakenedsomewhatundertheinfluenceofthisrathersedentarylifeintheLondonfog，Iconsultedtwoeminentphysicians，SirAndrewClarkeandSirMorellMackenzie，andeachadvisedandevenurgedmetopassthewinterinEgypt。ShortlycamealetterfrommyfriendProfessorWillardFiske，atFlorencesayingthathewouldbegladtogowithme。Thiswasindeedapieceofgoodfortune，forhehadvisitedEgyptagainandagain，andwasnotonlythebestofguides，butthemostcharmingofcompanions。Mydecisionwasinstantlytaken，and，havingfinishedoneortwochaptersofmybook，IleftLondonand，bythewayoftheStGotthard，soonreachedFlorence。ThencetoRome，Naples，and，afteracharmingdrive，toCastellammare，Sorrento，Amalfi，andSalerno，whencewewentbyrailtoBrindisi，andthencetoAlexandria，wherewearrivedonthe1stofJanuary，1889。
Nowcameanewchapterinmylife。ThisjourneyintheEast，especiallyinEgyptandGreece，markedanewepochinmythinking。Ibecamemoreandmoreimpressedwiththecontinuityofhistoricalcauses，andrealizedmoreandmorehoweasilyandnaturallyhavegrownthemythsandlegendswhichhavedelayedtheunbiasedobservationofhumaneventsandthescientificinvestigationofnaturallaws。OnaNileboatformanyweeks，withscholarsofhighcharacter，andwithanexcellentlibraryaboutme，Ifoundnotonlyarefugefromtroubleandsorrow，butaportaltonewandmostfascinatingstudies。
NorwasitonlythelifeofoldEgyptwhichinterestedme:thescenesinmodernEasternlifealsogaveaneededchangeinmyenvironment。AtCairo，inthebazaarincontactwiththedailylife，whichseemedlikeachapteroutofthe"ArabianNights，"
andalsointhemodernpartofthecity，incontactwiththenewerlifeofEgyptamongEnglishandEgyptianfunctionaries，therewasconstantstimulustofruitfultrainsofthought。
ForourjourneyoffiveweeksupontheNilewehadwhatwascalleda"specialsteamer，"theSethi;andforourcompanions，somefourteenAmericansandEnglish——allonfriendlyterms。Everydaycamenewsubjectsofthought，andnearlyeverywakingmomentcamesomenewstimulustoobservationandreflection。
DeeplyimpressedonmymindistheaccountgivenmebyBrugschBey，assistantdirectoroftheEgyptianMuseum，oftheamazingfindofantiquitiestwoorthreeyearsbefore——perhapsthemoststartlingdiscoveryevermadeinarchaeology。Itwasonthiswise。Themuseumauthoritieshadforsometimenotedthattouristscomingdowntheriverwerebringingremarkablybeautifulspecimensofancientworkmanship;andthisledtoasuspicionthattheArabsaboutthefirstcataracthaddiscoveredanewtomb。Foralongtimenothingdefinitecouldbefound;but，atlast，vigorousmeasureshavingbeentaken，——measureswhichBrugschBeydidnotexplain，butwhichIcouldeasilyunderstandtobethetime—honoredmethodoftyinguptheprincipalfunctionariesoftheregiontotheirpalm—treesandwhippingthemuntiltheyconfessed，——thediscoverywasrevealed，andBrugschBey，havinggoneuptheNiletotheplaceindicated，wastakentowhatappearedtobeawell;and，havingbeenletdownintoitbyropes，foundhimselfinasortofartificialcavern，notbeautifiedandadornedliketheroyaltombsofthatregion，butroughlyhewnintherock。Itwasfilledwithsarcophagi，andatfirstsightofthemhewasalmostparalyzed。FortheyborethenamesofseveralamongthemosteminentearlysovereignsandmembersofsovereignfamiliesofthegreatestdaysofEgypt。ThefirstideawhichtookholdofBrugsch’smindwhilestunnedbythisrevelationwasthathewasdreaming;but，havingsoonconvincedhimselfthathewasawake，hethenthoughtthathemustbeinsomestateofhallucinationafterdeath——thathehadsuddenlylosthislife，andthathissoulwaswanderingamidshadows。Butthis，too，hesoonfoundunlikely。Thencameoverhimasenseoftherealityandimportanceofthediscoverytoooppressivetobeborne。Hecouldstayinthecavernnolonger;
and，havinggonetotheentranceofthewellandsignaledtothemenabove，hewasdrawnup，and，arrivingatthesurface，gaspedoutacommandtothemalltoleavehim。Hethensatdowninthedeserttosecurethecalmrequiredforfurtherthought;and，finally，havingbecomemorecomposed，returnedtothework，andthemummiesofRamesestheGreatandoftheotherroyalpersonagesweretakenfromtheirtemporaryhome，carrieddowntheriver，andplacedinthemuseumatCairo。
Anotherexperiencewasofaverydifferentsort。IhadpassedadaywiththeEgyptianministerofpublicinstruction，ArtinPasha，atthegreattechnicalschoolofCairo，which，underthechargeofaneminentFrenchengineer，istrainingadmirablyaconsiderablenumberofEgyptiansinvariousartsappliedtoindustry;andatluncheon，IhadnoticedonthewallaportraitoftheKhedive，TewfikPasha，representinghimasmostcommandinginmanner——oversixfeetinheight，andinagorgeousuniform。OntheeveningofthatdayIwenttodinewiththeKhedive，and，enteringthereception—rooms，foundalargeassemblage，andwaswelcomedbyakindlylittlemanwithapleasantface，andintheplainestofuniforms，who，asIsupposed，wastheprimeminister，RiazPasha。Hisgreetingwascordial，andweweresoonincloseconversation，Igivinghimespeciallytheimpressionsmadeuponmebytheschool，askingquestionsandmakingsuggestions。Heenteredveryheartilyintoitall，anddetainedmelong，I
wonderingconstantlywheretheKhedivemightbe。Presently，thegreatdoorshavingbeenflungopenanddinnerannounced，eachgentlemanhastenedtotheladyassignedhim，andallmarchedouttogether，mythoughtbeing，"ThisistheOrientalwayofentertainingstrangers;weshall，nodoubt，findthesovereignonhisthroneatthetable。"But，tomyamazement，thefirstplaceatthetablewastakenbytheunassuminglittlemanwithwhomI
hadbeentalkingsofreely。AtfirstIwassomewhatabashed，thoughthemistakewasaverynaturalone。ThefactwasthatI
hadbeencompletelyundertheimpressionmadeuponmebytheidealizedportraitoftheKhediveatthetechnicalschool，andthethoughthadneverenteredmymindthattherealKhedivemightbephysicallyfarinferiortotheideal。Butnoharmwasdone;