for，afterdinner，hecametomeagainandrenewedtheconversationwithespecialcordiality。IalsohadalongtalkwiththerealRiaz，andfoundhimintelligentandbroad—minded。
　　Onethinghesaidamusedme。ItwasthatheespeciallylikedtowelcomeAmericans，becausetheywerenotseekingtoexploitthecountry。
　　InCairoandAlexandriaIenjoyedmeetingtheAmericanandEnglishmissionaries，——amongthemmyoldYalefriendDr。HenryJessup，whohasforsomanyyearsrenderedadmirableservicesatBeyrout;butthemostnoteworthythingwasalecturewhichI
　　heardfromDr。Grant，aneminentPresbyterianphysicianconnectedwiththemission。ItwasonthesubjectoftheEgyptianTrinities。Thedoctorexplainedthem，aswellastheTrimurtisofIndia，byexpressinghisbeliefthatwhentheAlmightycamedowninthecoolofthedaytorefreshhimselfbywalkingandtalkingwithAdaminthegardenofEden，herevealedtothemanhehadmadesomeofthegreatmysteriesofthedivineexistence，andthatthesehad"leakedout"tomenwhotookthemintoothercountries，andtheretaughtthem！
　　IalsofoundatCairoanotherespeciallyinterestingmanofaverydifferentsort，anArmenian，Mr。Nimr;and，onvisitinghim，wasamazedtofindinhislibraryalargecollectionofEnglishandFrenchbooks，scientificandliterary——amongthemthe"NewYorkScientificMonthly"containingmyownarticles，whichhehaddonemethehonortoread。Ifoundthathehadbeen，atanearlierperiod，aprofessoratthecollegeestablishedbytheAmericanProtestantmissionariesatBeyrout;butthatheandseveralotherswhohadcometoadopttheDarwinianhypothesiswereonthataccountturnedoutoftheirsituations，andthathehadtakenrefugeinCairowherehewaspublishing，inArabic，adailynewspaperaweeklyliterarymagazine，andamonthlyscientificjournal。Iwasmuchstruckbyoneremarkofhis——whichwas，thathewasdoinghisbesttopromotetheinterestsofFreemasonryintheEast，astheonlymeansofbringingChristiansandMohammedanstogetherunderthesameroofformutualhelp，withthefeelingthattheywerechildrenofthesameGod。HetoldmethattheworstoppositionhehadmetcamefromaveryexcellentProtestantmissionary，whohadpubliclyinsistedthattheGodworshipedbytheMohammedanswasnottheGodworshipedbyChristians。ThisremindedmeofasermonwhichoneofmyfriendsheardinStrasburgCathedralinwhichapriest，reprovinghisCatholichearersforenteringintoanyrelationswithProtestants，especiallyopposedtheideathattheyworshipedthesameGod，andinsistedthattheGodoftheCatholicsandtheGodoftheProtestantsaretwodifferentbeings。
　　Amongthethingswhichgavemearealenjoymentatthisperiod，andaidedtorevivemyinterestintheworldaboutme，wastheSaracenicarchitectureofCairoanditsneighborhood。Nothingcouldbe，initsway，morebeautiful。IhadneverbeforerealizedhowmuchbeautyisobtainableunderthelimitationsofMohammedanism;theexquisitetraceryandfretworkoftheSaracenicperiodwereaconstantjoytome，andhappily，astherehadbeenno"restorers，"everythingremainedasithadleftthehandsofthemenofgeniuswhocreatedit。
　　Inthisolderarchitectureathousandthingsinterestedme;butthegreatesteffectwasproducedbythetombsatBeniHassan，asshowingthehistoricallinkingtogetherofhumanideasbothinartandscience——thedevelopmentofoneperiodoutofanother。UptothetimeofmyseeingthemIhadsupposedthattheDoricarchitectureofGreece，andespeciallytheDoriccolumn，wasofGreekcreation;nowIsawtheproofthatitwasevolvedoutofanearlierformuponthelowerNile，whichhaditself，doubtless，beendevelopedoutofformsyetearlier。
　　AtonethingIwasespeciallysurprised。Ifoundthat，excellentasareourmissionariesinthoseregions，theirworkhasnotatallbeenwhatthosewhosendthemhavesupposed。NoMohammedanconvertsaremade。Indeed，shouldthegoodmissionariesatCairowakeupsomefinemorninginthespaciousquartersforwhichtheyaresolargelyindebtedtothelateKhediveIsmail，andfindthattheyhadconvertedaMohammedan，theywouldbefilledwithconsternation。Theywouldpossiblybedrivenfromthecountry。
　　TherealMohammedancannotbeconverted。Therewere，indeed，afewpersons，hereandthere，claimingtobeconvertedJewsorMohammedans;butwewerealwayswarnedagainstthem，evenbyChristians，asfarlesstrustworthythanthosewhoweretruetotheiroriginalfaith。Whatevergoodisdonebythemissionariesisdonethroughtheirschools，towhichcomemanychildrenoftheCopts，withperhapsacertainnumberofMohammedansdesirousoflearningEnglish;andthegreatestofAmericanmissionarysuccessesisdoubtlessRobertCollegeatConstantinople，whichhascertainlydoneaverynobleworkamongthemoregiftedyoungmenoftheChristianpopulationsintheTurkishEmpire。
　　SeveraltimesIattendedserviceintheUnitedPresbyterianchurchatCairo，andfoundithard，unattractive，andlittlelikelytoinfluenceanyconsiderablenumberofpersons，whetherMohammedanorChristian。Itwasevidentthatthepreachers，asarule，wereentirelyoutofthecurrentofmoderntheologicalandreligiousthought，andthateventhebestandnoblestofthemrepresentedideasnolongerheldbytheirleadingcoreligionistsinthecountriesfromwhichtheycame。
　　AfterastayofthreemonthsinEgypt，weleftAlexandriaforAthens，whereIenjoyed，duringaconsiderablestay，theadvantagesofthelibraryattheAmericanSchoolofArchaeology，andthecompanionshipofmyfriendProfessorWaldstein，nowofCambridgeUniversity。VerydelightfulalsowereexcursionswithmyoldYalecompanion，WalkerFearne，ourministerinGreece，andhischarmingfamily，totheAcropolis，theTheaterofDionysus，theBayofSalamis，Megara，andotherplacesofinterest。AnespecialadvantagewehadinthecompanionshipofProfessorMahaffyofTrinityCollege，Dublin，whosecommentsonalltheseplacesweremostsuggestive。
　　VeryinterestingtomewasaninterviewwithTricoupis，theprimeministerofthekingdom。HistalkontheconditionofthingsinGreecewasthatofabroad—mindedstatesman。SpeakingoftherelationsoftheGreekChurchtothestate，hesaidthatthechurchhadkeptthelanguageandthenationalityofthepeoplealiveduringtheTurkishoccupation，butthat，inspiteofitsservices，ithadneverbeenallowedtodomineeroverthecountrypolitically;hedweltontheimportanceofpushingrailwaycommunicationsintoEurope，andlamentedtheobstaclesthrownintheirwaybyTurkey。HisreminiscencesofMr。BuchananandMr。
　　Dallas，whomhehadformerlyknownattheCourtofSt。JamesduringhisstayasministerinLondon，wereespeciallyinteresting。
　　Themostimportant"function"Isawwasthesolemn"TeDeum"atthecathedralontheanniversaryofGreekindependence，theKing，Queen，andcourtbeingpresent，butIwaslessimpressedbytheirdevotionthanbytheirreverenceofaconsiderablepartoftheaudience，who，atthecloseoftheservice，walkedaboutinthechurchwiththeirhatsontheirheads。AstothepriestswhoswarmedaboutusintheirByzantinecostumesandlonghair，IwasremindedofasententiousMoslemremarkregardingthem:"Muchhair，littlebrains。"
　　OnGoodFridayIvisitedMarsHillandmusedforanhouroverwhathascomefromthesermononcepreachedthere。
　　TowardtheendofAprilweleftthePiraeus，and，afterpassingthroughtheaegeanonamostbeautifulday，arrivedinConstantinople，whereImadetheacquaintanceofMr。Straus，ourministeratthatcapital。ThusbeganafriendshipwhichIhaveeversincegreatlyprized。Mr。StrausintroducedmetotwoofthemostinterestingmenIhaveevermet;thefirstofthesebeingHamdiBey，directoroftheImperialMuseumatConstantinople。
　　MeetinghimatMr。Straus’stableandinhisownhouse，Iheardhimdiscusssundryquestionsrelatingtomodernart——better，insomerespects，thananyotherpersonIhaveeverknown。NeverhaveIheardmoreadmirablydiscriminatingjudgmentsuponvariousmodernschoolsofpaintingthanthosewhichhethengaveme。
　　TheotherpersontowhomMr。StrausintroducedmewastheBritishambassador，SirWilliamWhite，whowasveryhospitable，andrevealedtomemuchinlifeandliterature。Onethingespeciallysurprisedme——namely，thatthoughaRomanCatholic，hehadagreatadmirationforRenan’swritings，ofwhichhewasaconstantreader。Here，too，IrenewedmyacquaintancewithvariousmembersofthediplomaticcorpswhomIhadmetelsewhere。CuriouswasaneveningvisittotheRussianEmbassy，Mrs。Strausbeingcarriedinasedan—chair，herhusbandwalkingbesideherineveningdressatonedoor，Iattheother，andakavass，withdrawnsword，marchingattheheadoftheprocession。
　　WhiletheMohammedanhistoryrevealedinConstantinoplegavemefrequentsubjectsofthought，IwasmoreconstantlycarriedbacktotheByzantineperiod。FortherewastheChurchofSt。Sophia！
　　Noedificehaseverimpressedmemore;indeed，inmanyrespects，nonehaseverimpressedmesomuch。Bearinginminditsorigin，itshistory，anditsarchitecture，itisdoubtlessthemostinterestingchurchintheworld。ThoughsmallerthanSt。Peter’satRome，itisvastlymoreimpressive。Takingintoaccounttheviewasoneenters，embracingtheloftyvaultsretreatingonallsides，thearchesspringingaboveourheads，and，crowningall，thedome，whichopensfullyuponthesightimmediatelyuponpassingthedoorway，itiscertainlythemostoverpoweringofChristianchurches。Gibbon’spicturesthrongeduponme，andveryvividly，asIvisitedthegroundwhereformerlystoodtheGreatCircus，andnotedtheremainsofmonumentswherethe"Blues"and"Greens"convulsedthecitywiththeirbloodyfactionfights，andwheresquabblingChristiansectspreparedthewayforthatTurkishdominionwhichhasnowburdenedthiswearyearthformorethanfivehundredyears。
　　FromConstantinople，byBuda—Pesth，Vienna，Munich，Ulm，andFrankfort—on—the—Main，toParis，stoppingineachofthesecities，mainlyforbook—hunting。AtMunichIspentconsiderabletimeintheRoyalLibrary，wherevariousrareworksrelatingtothebearingoftheologyoncivilizationwereplacedatmydisposal;andatFrankfortaddedlargelytomylibrary——especiallymonographsonEgyptandilluminatedmanuscriptsofthemiddleages。
　　AtParistheExpositionof1889wasinfullblast。AstotheAmericanexhibit，thereweresomethingstobelamented。Our"commissionofexperts"wasinpartremarkablywellchosen;amongthembeinganumberofthebestmenintheirdepartmentsthatAmericahasproduced;but，ontheotherhand，thereweresomewhohadevidentlybeenfoisteduponthePresidentbypoliticiansinremoteStates——so—called"experts，"yetasunfitasitispossibletoconceiveanyhumanbeingstobe。Oneofthese，whowasresponsibleforoneofthemostimportantAmericandepartments，wasutterlyhelpless。Dayinanddayout，hesatinakindofdazeattheAmericanheadquarters，doingnothing——indeed，evidentlyincapableofdoinganything。Oneortwoofhisassociates，aswellassundryFrenchmen，askedmetoaidingettinghisdepartmentintosomeorder;andthis，thoughgreatlypressedfortime，Idid，——devotingtothetaskseveraldayswhichIcouldillafford。
　　VeryhappywasIoveroneimprovementwhichtheUnitedStateshadmadesincetheformerexposition，atwhichIhadmyselfbeenacommissioner。ThenalllamentedandapologizedfortheconditionoftheAmericanArtGallery;nowtherewasnoneedeitheroflamentationorapology，forthere，inalltheirbeauty，wereportraitsbySargent，andGariMelchers’spictureof"ACommunionDayinHolland"——thelattertouchingthedeepplacesofthehumanheart。AsIwassittingbeforeitoneday，anEnglishgentlemancamewithhiswifeandsatbesideme。PresentlyIheardhimsay:
　　"Ofallthepicturesintheentireexposition，thistakesthestrongestholduponme。"ManyotherAmericanpictureswerealsoobjectsofpridetous。Ifoundourminister，Mr。WhitelawReid，veryhospitable，andathishousebecameacquaintedwithvariousinterestingAmericans。AtPresidentCarnot’sreceptionatthepalaceoftheElyseeIalsometseveralpersonagesworthknowing，andamongthem，tomygreatsatisfaction，SenatorJohnSherman。
　　DuringthisstayinParisItookpartintwocommemorations。
　　FirstcametheFourthofJuly，when，inobediencetotheoldcustomwhichIhadknownsowellinmystudentdays，theAmericancolonyvisitedthecemeteryoftheRuePicpusandlaidwreathsuponthetombofLafayette，——theAmericanbandperformingadirge，andourmarinesondutyfiringafarewellvolley。Itwasineverywayawarmandheartytribute。AweeklaterwastheunveilingofthestatueofCamilleDesmoulinsinthegardenofthePalaisRoyal，——thisbeingtheone—hundredthanniversaryofthedayonwhich，inthatgarden，——and，indeed，onthatspot，beforetheCafeFoy，——hehadrousedthemobwhichdestroyedtheBastilleandbegunthewhirlwindwhichfinallysweptawaysomuchandsomany，includinghimselfandhisbelovedLucille。PoorCamille，orating，gesticulating，andlookingforanewheavenandanewearth，wasoneofthelittlegreatmensoimportantatthebeginningofrevolutionsandsoinsignificantafterward。Itwasevidentthat，inspiteoftheoldlegendsregardinghim，theFrenchhadceasedtocareforhim;Iwassurprisedatthesmallnumberpresent，andatthelanguidinterestevenofthese。
　　AmongmymostdelightfulreminiscencesofthisperiodaremywalksandtalkswithmyoldYaleandParisstudentfriendofnearlyfortyyearsbefore，RandallGibson，who，havingbeenageneralintheConfederateservice，wasnowaUnitedStatessenatorfromLouisiana。Revisitingouroldhaunts，especiallytheSorbonne，thePantheon，St。Sulpice，andothermonumentsoftheLatinQuarter，wespokemuchofdaysgoneby，hegivingmemostinterestingreminiscencesofourCivilWarperiodasseenfromtheSouthernside。Oneortwoofthethingshetoldmeareespeciallyfastenedinmymind。Thefirstwasthatashesatwithotherofficersoverthecamp—firenightafternight，discussingthewarandtheirhopesregardingthefuture，allagreedthatwhentheConfederacyobtaineditsindependencethereshouldbeno"rightofsecession"init。Butwhatinterestedmemostwasthefactthathe，aDemocraticsenatoroftheUnited，States，absolutelydetestedThomasJefferson，and，aboveallthings，forthereasonthatheconsideredJeffersontherealsourceoftheextremedoctrineofStatesovereignty。GibsonwasatypicalKentuckyWhigwho，intheCivilWar，wentwiththeSouthfromtheforceoffamilyconnections，friendships，socialrelations，andthelike，butwhoremained，inhisheartofhearts，fromfirsttolast，deeplyattachedtotheUnion。
　　LeavingParis，wewenttogethertoHomburg，andtheremetMr。
　　HenryS。Sanford，ourministeratBelgiumduringtheCivilWar，oneofSecretarySeward’sforemostagentsontheEuropeancontinentatthatperiod。Hisaccountsofmattersatthattime，especiallyofthedoingsofsundryemissariesoftheUnitedStates，werealloftheminteresting，andsomeofthemexceedinglyamusing。AtHomburg，too，IfoundmysuccessorinthelegationatBerlin，Mr。Pendleton，who，thoughhismindremainedclear，wasslowlydyingofparalysis。
　　ThencewithGibsonandSanforddowntheRhinetoMr。Sanford’scountry—seatinBelgium。Itwasamostbeautifulplace，alordlychateau，superblybuilt，fitted，andfurnished，amplefortheaccommodationofascoreofguests，andyettherenthepaidforitwasbutsixhundreddollarsayear。Ithadbeenbuiltbyaprinceatsuchcostthathehimselfcouldnotaffordtoliveinit，andwasobligedtorentitforwhathecouldget。ThencewemadeourwaytoLondonandNewYork。
　　CHAPTERLV
　　MEXICO，CALIFORNIA，SCANDINAVIA，RUSSIA，ITALY，LONDON，AND
　　BERLIN——1892—1897
　　ArrivingatNewYorkintheautumnof1889，Iwassoonsettledatmyaccustomedworkintheuniversity，——devotingmyselftonewchaptersofmybookandtosundrycoursesoflectures。EarlyinthefollowingyearIbeganacoursebeforetheUniversityofPennsylvania;andmystayinPhiladelphiawasrenderedveryagreeablebyvariousnewacquaintances。InterestingtomewastheRomanCatholicarchbishop，Dr。Ryan。Dininginhiscompany，I
　　referredadmiringlytohiscathedral，whichIhadrecentlyvisited，butspokeofwhatseemedtomethedefectivemodeofplacingthedomeuponthebuilding;whereuponhemadeoneofthemosttolerableLatinpunsIhaveeverheard，sayingthatduringtheconstructionofboththenaveandthedomehispredecessorswerehamperedbylackofmoney，——that，infact，theyweregreatlytroubledbytheresangustaedomi。InterestingalsowasattendanceupontheconferenceatLakeMohonk，whichbroughttogetheralargebodyofleadingmenfromallpartsofthecountrytodiscussthebestmethodsofdealingwithquestionsrelatingtothefreedmenandIndians。Thepresidentoftheconference，Mr。Hayes，formerlyPresidentoftheUnitedStates，I
　　hadknownwellinformerdays，whenIservedunderhimasministertoGermany，andthehighopinionIhadthenformedofhimwasincreasedasIheardhimdiscussthemainquestionsbeforetheconference。Itwasthefashionatonetimeamongblackguardsandcynicsofbothpartiestosneerathim，andthis，doubtless，producedsomeeffectonthepopularmind;butnothingcouldbemoreunjust:rarelyhaveImetamaninourownoranyothercountrywhohasimpressedmemorebythequalitieswhichatrueAmericanshouldmostdesireinaPresidentoftheUnitedStates;hehadwhatourcountryneedsmostinourpublicmen——sobrietyofjudgmentunitedtothepowerofcalm，strongstatement。
　　Thetwofollowingyears，1890—1891，werepassedmainlyatCornell，thoughwithexcursionstovariousotherinstitutionswhereIhadbeenaskedtogiveaddressesorlectures;butinFebruaryof1892，havingbeeninvitedtolectureatStanfordUniversityinCalifornia，IacceptedaninvitationfromMr。
　　AndrewCarnegietobecomeoneoftheguestsgoinginhiscartothePacificcoastbywayofMexico。Ourpartyofeight，providedwithcook，servants，andeverycomfort，traveledaltogethermorethantwelvethousandmiles——firstthroughtheCentralandSouthernStatesoftheUnion，thencetothecityofMexicoandbeyond，thenbyaseriesofzigzagexcursionsfromlowerCaliforniatothenorthernlimitsofOregonandWashington，andfinallythroughtheRockyMountainsandthecanonsofColoradotoSaltLakeCityandDenver。ThencemycompanionswentEastandI
　　returnedalonetoStanfordtogivemylectures。DuringthislongexcursionImetmanymenwhogreatlyinterestedme，andespeciallyoldstudentsofminewhomIfoundeverywheredoingmanfullytheworkforwhichCornellhadaidedtofitthem。NeverhaveIfeltmorefullyrepaidforanylaborandcareIhaveevergiventothefoundinganddevelopmentoftheuniversity。ArrivinginthecityofMexico，Isaidtomyself，"HerecertainlyIshallnotmeetanymoreofmyoldCornellians";buthardlywasI
　　settledinmyroomwhenacardcameupfromoneofthem，andI
　　soonlearnedthathewasdoinghonortotheSibleyCollegeoftheuniversitybysuperintendingtheerectionofthelargestprinting—presswhichhadeverbeenbroughtintoMexico。TheMexicancapitalinterestedmegreatly。Thecathedral，which，uptothattime，Ihadsupposedtobeinadebasedrococostyle，I
　　foundtobeofasimple，nobleRenaissancecharacter，andofrealdignity。BeingpresentedtothePresident，PorfirioDiaz，Iwasgreatlyimpressedbyhisquietstrengthandself—possession，andthenunderstoodforthefirsttimewhathadwroughtsobeneficentachangeinhiscountry。Hisministersalsoimpressedmefavorably，thoughtheywereevidentlyovershadowedbysogreatapersonality。Onedetailstruckmeascurious:theroominwhichthePresidentreceivedusatthepalacewashungroundwithsatindraperiesstampedwiththecrownandcipherofhispredecessor——theill—fatedEmperorMaximilian。
　　Californiawasagreatrevelationtome。Wearrivedjustatthefulloutburstofspring，andseemedtohavealighteduponanewplanet。StrongandgoodmenIfoundthere，buildingupeverysortofworthyenterprise，andespeciallytheirtwonobleuniversities，oneofwhichwasalmostentirelyofficeredbyCornellgraduates。TothisinstitutionIwasattachedbyaspecialtie。Atvarioustimesthefounders，GovernorandMrs。
　　Stanford，hadconsultedmeonproblemsarisinginitsdevelopment;theyhadtwicevisitedmeatCornellforthepurposeofmorefulldiscussion，andatthelatterofthetwovisitshadurgedmetoacceptitspresidency。ThisIhadfeltobligedtodecline。Isaidtothemthatthebestyearsofmylifehadbeendevotedtobuildinguptwouniversities，——MichiganandCornell，——andthatnotallthetreasuresofthePacificcoastwouldtemptmetobeginwithanother;thatthisfeelingwasnotduetoawishtoevadeanyduty，buttoaconvictionthatmyworkofthatsortwasdone，andthattherewereotherswhocouldcontinueitfarbetterthanI。Itwasafterthisconversationthat，ontheiraskingwhethertherewasanyonesuitablewithinmyacquaintance，Ianswered，"GototheUniversityofIndiana;
　　thereyouwillfindthepresident，anoldstudentofmine，DavidStarrJordan，oneoftheleadingscientificmenofthecountry，possessedofamostcharmingpowerofliteraryexpression，witharemarkableabilityinorganization，andblessedwithgood，soundsense。Callhim。"Theytookmyadvice，calledDr。Jordan，andI
　　foundhimattheuniversity。Mythreeweeks’stayinterestedmemoreandmore。EveningaftereveningIwalkedthroughthecloistersofthegreatquadrangle，admiringthesolidity，beauty，andadmirablearrangementofthebuildings，andenjoyingtheirlovelysurroundingsandthewholecharmofthatCaliforniaatmosphere。
　　Thebuildings，insimplicity，beauty，andfitness，farsurpassedanyotherswhichhadatthattimebeenerectedforuniversitypurposesintheUnitedStates;andIfeelsurethatwhentheentireplaniscarriedout，notevenOxfordorCambridgewillhaveanythingmorebeautiful。PresidentJordanhadmorethanfulfilledmyprophecies，anditwasaninspirationtoseeattheirdailyworkthefacultyhehadcalledtogether。Thestudentsalsogreatlyinterestedme。WhenitwasfirstnoisedabroadthatSenatorStanfordwastofoundanewuniversityinCalifornia，sundryEasternmentookasneeringtoneandsaid，"Whatwillitfindtodo？TheyoungmenonthePacificcoastwhoareasyetfittoreceivetheadvantagesofauniversityareveryfew;theStateUniversityofCaliforniaatBerkeleyisalreadylanguishingforwantofstudents。"Theweaknessoftheseviewsisseeninthefactthat，atthishour，eachoftheseuniversitieshasnearlythreethousandundergraduates。TheerectionofStanfordhasgivenanimpetustotheStateUniversity，andbotharedoingnoblework，notonlyforthePacificcoast，butforthewholecountry。
　　OneofthemostnoteworthythingsinthehistoryofAmericanuniversityeducationthusfaristhefactthattheuniversitybuildingserectedbyboardsoftrusteesinallpartsofthecountryhave，almostwithoutexception，provedtobemerejumblesofmeanmaterialsinincongruousstyles;buttothisruletherehavebeen，mainly，twonobleexceptions:oneinthebuildingsoftheUniversityofVirginia，plannedandexecutedundertheeyeofThomasJefferson，andtheotherinthesebuildingsatPaloAlto，plannedandexecutedunderthedirectionofGovernorandMrs。
　　Stanford。Thesetwogroups，oneinVirginiaandoneinCalifornia，with，perhaps，thenewuniversitybuildingsatPhiladelphiaandChicago，arealmosttheonlyhomesoflearningintheUnitedStateswhicharereallysatisfactoryfromanarchitecturalpointofview。
　　The"CityoftheSaints，"whichIsawonmyway，hadmuchinterestforme。IcollectedwhilethereeverythingpossibleinthewayofpublicationsbearingonMormonism，beginningwithacopyoftheoriginaleditionofthe"BookofMormon";butnothingthatIcouldfindinanyofthesepublicationsindicatedanyconsiderableintellectualdevelopment，asyet。
　　Moreencouragingwasarapidvisit，onmywayhome，totheChicagoExpositionbuildings，which，thoughnotyetfullycompleted，wereverybeautiful;andstillmorepleasurecamefromavisittothenewUniversityofChicago，whichwasevidentlybeginningamostimportantworkforAmericancivilization。Itswholeplanisremarkablywellconceived，andwiththemeansthatitisrapidlyaccumulating，duetothepublicspiritofitsmainbenefactorandamultitudeofothershardlysecondtohimintheimportanceoftheirgifts，itcannotfailtoexerciseagreatinfluence，especiallythroughouttheNorthwesternStates。Firstofall，itwilldomuchtoliftthecityinwhichitstandsoutofitscrudematerialismintosomethinghigherandbetter。Itisapleasuretonotethatitsbuildingsareworthyofit:theyseemlikelytoformafourthintheseriesoffithomesforgreatcentersofadvancededucationintheUnitedStates，——Virginia，Stanford，andtheUniversityofPennsylvaniabeingtheothers。
　　HavingreturnedtoCornell，Iwentonquietlywithmyworkuntilautumn，when，tomysurprise，IreceivednoticethatthePresidenthadappointedmeministertoSt。Petersburg;andonthe4thofNovemberIarrivedatmypostinthatcapital。OfmyexperienceasministerIhavespokenelsewhere，buthavegivennoaccountoftwojourneyswhichinterestedmeatthatperiod。ThefirstofthesewasintheScandinaviancountries。ThevoyageofadayandnightacrosstheBalticthroughtheAlandIslandswaslikeadream，thenortherntwilightmakingnightmorebeautifulthanday，andtheapproachtotheSwedishcapitalbeing，nexttotheapproachestoConstantinopleandtoNewYork，themostbeautifulIknow。
　　VeryinstructivetomewasavisittoUpsala——especiallytotheuniversityandcathedral。Astotheformer，the"CodexofUlfilas，"inthelibrary，whichIhadlongdesiredtosee，especiallyinterestedme;andvisitstothehousesofthevarious"nations"showedmethatoutofthesocialneedsofSwedishstudentsinthemiddleageshadbeendevelopedsomethingcloselyakintothefraternityhouseswhichsimilarneedshavedevelopedinourtimeatAmericanuniversities。Thecathedral，containingtheremainsofGustavusVasaandLinnaeus，wasfruitfulinsuggestions。ByacuriouscoincidenceIwasatthattimefinishingmychapterentitled"FromCreationtoEvolution，"andhadbeenpayingspecialattentiontotheancientandmediaevalconceptionsofthecreationoftheworldasaworkdonebyanindividualinhumanform，laboringwithhishandsduringsixdays，andtakingneededrestontheseventh;andhereIfound，atthesideentranceofthecathedral，adelightfullynaivemediaevalrepresentationofthewholeprocess，——aseriesofmedallionsrepresentingtheAlmightytoilinglikeanartisanoneachofthesixdaysandreposing，evidentlyveryweary，ontheseventh。
　　ThejourneyacrossSweden，throughthecanalsandlakes，wasveryrestful。AtChristianiaMr。Gade，theAmericanconsul，whohadservedourcountrysolongandsohonorablyinthatcity，tookmeunderhisguidanceduringvariousinterestingexcursionsaboutthefiords。AtGothenburgItookpainstoobtaininformationregardingtheirsystemofdealingwiththesaleofintoxicatingliquors，andbecamesatisfiedthatitis，onthewhole，thebestsolutionoftheproblemeverobtained。Thewholeoldsystemofsaloons，gin—shops，andthelike，withtheirallurementstothedrinkingofadulteratedalcohol，hadbeensweptaway，andinitsplacethegovernmenthadgiventoacorporationtheprivilegeofsellingpureliquorsinarestrictednumberofdecentshops，undercarefullydevisedlimitations。First，theliquorsmustbefullytestedforpurity;secondly，nonecouldbesoldtopersonsalreadyundertheinfluenceofdrink;thirdly，nointoxicantcouldbesoldwithoutsomethingtoeatwithit，theeffectsofalcoholuponthesystembeingthusmitigated。Theseandotherrestrictionshadreducedthedrinkevil，asIwasassured，toaminimum。Butthemostfar—reachingprovisioninthewholesystemwasthatthecompanywhichenjoyedthemonopolyofthistradewasnotallowedtodeclareadividendgreaterthan，Ibelieve，sixpercent。;everythingrealizedabovethisgoingintothepublictreasury，mainlyforcharitablepurposes。Theresultofthisrestrictionofprofitswasthatnopersonemployedinsellingardentspiritswasundertheslightesttemptationtoattractcustomers。Eachofthesesellerswasasalariedofficialandknewthathisplacedependedonhisadheringtothelawwhichforbadehimtoselltoanypersonalreadyundertheinfluenceofliquor，ortodoanythingtoincreasehissales;andthewholemotiveformakingmendrunkardswasthustakenaway。
　　IwasassuredbyboththeAmericanandBritishconsuls，aswellasbymostreputablecitizens，thatthissystemhadgreatlydiminishedintemperance。Unfortunately，sincethattime，fanaticshaveobtainedcontrol，andhavepassedanentirely"prohibitory"
　　law，withtheresult，asIunderstand，thatthecommunityisnowdiscoveringthatprohibitiondoesnotprohibit，andthattheworstkindsofliquorsareagainsoldbymenwhosemainmotiveistosellasmuchaspossible。
　　ThemostattractivefeatureinmyvisittoNorwaywasThrondheim。
　　WithmypassionforGothicarchitecture，thebeautifullittlecathedral，whichtheauthoritieswererestoringJudiciously，wasadelight，anditwasallthemoreinterestingascontainingoneofthosecuriositiesofhumancivilizationwhichhavenowbecomerare。Inonecorneroftheedificeisa"holywell，"thepilgrimagestowhichinthemiddleageswere，nodoubt，amainsourceofthewealthoftheestablishment。Theattendantshows，inthestoneworkclosetothewell，theendofatubecomingfromtheupperpartofthecathedral;andthroughthistubepiousmonksinthemiddleagesnodoubtspokeoracularwordscalculatedtoenhancetheauthorityofthesaintpresidingovertheplace。
　　ItwasthesamesortofthingwhichoneseesintheTempleofIsisatPompeii，andthezealwhichcreateditwasnodoubtthesamethatto—dayoriginatesthesacredfirewhichalwayscomesdownfromheavenonEasterdayintotheGreekchurchatJerusalem，theliquefactionofthebloodofSt。JanuariusinthecathedralatNaples，andsundrycamp—meetingutterancesandactionsintheUnitedStates。
　　SwedenandNorwaystruckmeaspossessing，insomerespects，themostsatisfactorycivilizationofmoderntimes。Withamonarchicalfigurehead，theyarereallyarepublic。Hereisnooverbearingplutocracy，nosqualidpoverty，anexcellentsystemofeducation，liberalandpractical，fromthelocalschooltotheuniversity，apopulation，toallappearance，healthy，thrifty，andcomfortable。
　　Andyethere，asinotherpartsoftheworld，theresourcesofhumanfollyareillimitable。AlargepartyinNorwayurgessecessionfromSweden，andbothremaindividedfromDenmark，thoughthethreeare，toallintentsandpurposes，ofthesamerace，religion，language，andearlyhistoricaltraditions。Andclosebesidethemloomsup，moreandmoreportentous，theRussiancolossus，which，havingtrampledSwedishFinlandunderitsfeet，islookingacrosstheScandinavianpeninsulatowardthegoodharborsofNorway，justoppositeGreatBritain。Russiahasdeclaredtherightofheronehundredandtwentymillionsofpeopletoanice—freeportonthePacific;whyshallshenotassert，withequalcogency，therightofthesemillionstoanice—freeportontheAtlantic？WhyshouldnotthesemillionsownarailwayacrossScandinavia，andasuitableterritoryalongtheline;andthen，logically，alltheterritorynorth，andasmuchassheneedsoftheterritorysouthoftheline？Thenorthernand，tosomeextent，themiddleregionsofNorwayandSwedenwouldthuscomeundertheswayofaczarinSt。Petersburg，representedbysomegovernor—generallikethosewhohavebeentryingtoshowtotheScandinaviansofFinlandthatnewspapersareuseless，petitionsinadmissible，constitutionsafetish，banishmentablessing，andtheuseoftheirnativelanguageasuperfluity。TheonlysadthinginthisfairprospectisthatitisnottheobjurgatoryBjornson，thephilosophicIbsen，andtheimpulsiveNansen，withtheircompatriots，nowgroaningunderwhattheyarepleasedtocall"Swedishtyranny，"whowouldenjoythisRussianliberty，buttheirchildren，andtheirchildren’schildren。
　　AtCopenhagenIwasespeciallyattractedbytheEthnographicMuseum，which，byitsdisplayofthegradualupliftingofScandinavianhumanityfromprehistorictimes，hassostronglyaidedinenforcingontheworldthescientificdoctrineofthe"riseofman，"andinbringingtonaughtthetheologicaldoctrineofthe"fallofman。"
　　AshortstayatMoscowaddedtomyRussianpointsofview，itbeingmysecondvisitafteranintervalofnearlyfortyyears。
　　Althoughthecityhadspreadlargely，therewasverylittleevidenceofrealprogress:everywherewerefilth，fetishism，beggary，andreaction。ThemonumenttoAlexanderII，thegreatemancipator，stoodintheKremlin，halffinished;ithassince，I
　　amgladtolearn，beencompleted;butthishasonlybeenafterlongandslothfuldelays，andthestatueinSt。Petersburghasnotevenbeenbegun。Itiswellunderstoodthatonecauseofthisdelayhasbeenthereluctanceofthereactionaryleadersintheempiretoglorifysoradicalamovementastheemancipationoftheserfs。
　　IhadonecuriousexperienceofMuscoviteideasoftrade。MoscowisoneofthemaincentersforthemanufactureofthechurchbellsinwhichtheRussianpeasanttakessuchdelight;and，beingmuchinterestedincampanology，Ivisitedseveraloftheprincipalfoundries，andwasdelightedwiththesizeandworkmanshipofmanyspecimens。WalkingonemorningtotheKremlin，Isawattheagencyofoneoftheseestablishmentsabellweighingabouttwohundredandfiftypounds，mostexquisitelywrought，andsuchabeautifulexampleofthebestthatRussianscandointhisrespectthatIwentinandaskedthepriceofit。Thepricebeingnamed，IsaidthatIwouldtakeit。
　　Thereuponconsternationwasevidentintheestablishment，andpresentlytheheadoftheconcernsaidtomethattheywerenotsurethattheywishedtosellit。ButIsaid，"YouHAVEsoldit;
　　Iaskedyouwhatyourpricewas，youtoldme，andIhaveboughtit。"Tothishedemurred，andfinallyrefusedaltogethertosellit。Ongoingout，myguideinformedmethatIhadmadeamistake;
　　thatIwasmyselfthecauseofthewholetrouble;thatifIhadofferedhalfthepricenamedforthebellIshouldhavesecureditfortwothirds;butthat，asIhadofferedtheentireprice，thepeopleintheshophadjumpedtotheconclusionthatitmustbeworthmorethantheyhadsupposed，thatIhaddetectedvaluesinitwhichtheyhadnotrealized，andthatitwastheirdutytomakemepaymoreforitthanthepricetheyhadasked。Theresultwasthat，afewweeksafterward，acompromisehavingbeenmade，I
　　boughtitandsentittothelibraryofCornellUniversity，whereitisnowbothusefulandornamental。