Heclaimedtobesupremegovernoroftheislands,andhadunderhiscontroltwenty-onemenandthreewomen。Hegaveaveryfavourableaccountofthesalubrityoftheclimateandoftheproductivenessofthesoil。Thepopulationoccupiedthemselveschieflyincollectingsealskinsandseaelephantoil,withwhichtheytradedtotheCapeofGoodHope,Glassowningasmallschooner。Attheperiodofourarrivalthegovernorwasstillaresident,buthislittlecommunityhadmultiplied,therebeingfifty-sixpersonsuponTristan,besidesasmallersettlementofsevenonNightingaleIsland。Wehadnodifficultyinprocuringalmosteverykindofrefreshmentwhichwerequired-sheep,hogs,bullocks,rabbits,poultry,goats,fishingreatvariety,andvegetableswereabundant。Havingcometoanchorcloseinwiththelargeisland,ineighteenfathoms,wetookallwewantedonboardveryconveniently。CaptainGuyalsopurchasedofGlassfivehundredsealskinsandsomeivory。Weremainedhereaweek,duringwhichtheprevailingwindswerefromthenorthwardandwestward,andtheweathersomewhathazy。OnthefifthofNovemberwemadesailtothesouthwardandwestward,withtheintentionofhavingathoroughsearchforagroupofislandscalledtheAuroras,respectingwhoseexistenceagreatdiversityofopinionhasexisted。
Theseislandsaresaidtohavebeendiscoveredasearlyas1762,bythecommanderoftheshipAurora。In1790,CaptainManueldeOyarvido,,intheshipPrincess,belongingtotheRoyalPhilippineCompany,sailed,asheasserts,directlyamongthem。In1794,theSpanishcorvetteAtrevidawentwiththedeterminationofascertainingtheirprecisesituation,and,inapaperpublishedbytheRoyalHydrographicalSocietyofMadridintheyear1809,thefollowinglanguageisusedrespectingthisexpedition:“ThecorvetteAtrevidapractised,intheirimmediatevicinity,fromthetwenty-firsttothetwenty-seventhofJanuary,allthenecessaryobservations,andmeasuredbychronometersthedifferenceoflongitudebetweentheseislandsandtheportofSoledadintheManillas。Theislandsarethree,theyareverynearlyinthesamemeridian;thecentreoneisratherlow,andtheothertwomaybeseenatnineleagues’distance。”
TheobservationsmadeonboardtheAtrevidagivethefollowingresultsastheprecisesituationofeachisland。Themostnorthernisinlatitude52degrees37’24“S。,longitude47degrees,43’15“W。;
themiddleoneinlatitude53degrees2’40“S。,longitude47degrees55’15“W。;andthemostsoutherninlatitude53degrees15’22“S。,longitude47degrees57’15“W。
Onthetwenty-seventhofJanuary,1820,CaptainJamesWeddel,oftheBritishnavy,sailedfromStatenLandalsoinsearchoftheAuroras。Hereportsthat,havingmadethemostdiligentsearchandpassednotonlyimmediatelyoverthespotsindicatedbythecommanderoftheAtrevida,butineverydirectionthroughoutthevicinityofthesespots,hecoulddiscovernoindicationofland。Theseconflictingstatementshaveinducedothernavigatorstolookoutfortheislands;and,strangetosay,whilesomehavesailedthrougheveryinchofseawheretheyaresupposedtoliewithoutfindingthem,therehavebeennotafewwhodeclarepositivelythattheyhaveseenthem;andevenbeencloseinwiththeirshores。ItwasCaptainGuy’sintentiontomakeeveryexertionwithinhispowertosettlethequestionsooddlyindispute。{*3}
Wekeptonourcourse,betweenthesouthandwest,withvariableweather,untilthetwentiethofthemonth,whenwefoundourselvesonthedebatedground,beinginlatitude53degrees15’S。,longitude47
degrees58’W-thatistosay,verynearlyuponthespotindicatedasthesituationofthemostsouthernofthegroup。Notperceivinganysipofland,wecontinuedtothewestwardoftheparalleloffifty-threedegreessouth,asfarasthemeridianoffiftydegreeswest。Wethenstoodtothenorthasfarastheparalleloffifty-twodegreessouth,whenweturnedtotheeastward,andkeptourparallelbydoublealtitudes,morningandevening,andmeridianaltitudesoftheplanetsandmoon。HavingthusgoneeastwardlytothemeridianofthewesterncoastofGeorgia,wekeptthatmeridianuntilwewereinthelatitudefromwhichwesetout。Wethentookdiagonalcoursesthroughouttheentireextentofseacircumscribed,keepingalookoutconstantlyatthemasthead,andrepeatingourexaminationwiththegreatestcareforaperiodofthreeweeks,duringwhichtheweatherwasremarkablypleasantandfair,withnohazewhatsoever。Ofcoursewewerethoroughlysatisfiedthat,whateverislandsmighthaveexistedinthisvicinityatanyformerperiod,novestigeofthemremainedatthepresentday。SincemyreturnhomeIfindthatthesamegroundwastracedover,withequalcare,in1822,byCaptainJohnson,oftheAmericanschoonerHenry,andbyCaptainMorrellintheAmericanschoonerWasp-inbothcaseswiththesameresultasinourown。
IthadbeenCaptainGuy’soriginalintention,aftersatisfyinghimselfabouttheAuroras,toproceedthroughtheStraitofMagellan,andupalongthewesterncoastofPatagonia;butinformationreceivedatTristand’Acunhainducedhimtosteertothesouthward,inthehopeoffallinginwithsomesmallislandssaidtolieabouttheparallelof60degreesS。,longitude41degrees20’W。Intheeventofhisnotdiscoveringtheselands,hedesigned,shouldtheseasonprovefavourable,topushontowardthepole。Accordingly,onthetwelfthofDecember,wemadesailinthatdirection。OntheeighteenthwefoundourselvesaboutthestationindicatedbyGlass,andcruisedforthreedaysinthatneighborhoodwithoutfindinganytracesoftheislandshehadmentioned。Onthetwenty-first,theweatherbeingunusuallypleasant,weagainmadesailtothesouthward,withtheresolutionofpenetratinginthatcourseasfaraspossible。Beforeenteringuponthisportionofmynarrative,itmaybeaswell,fortheinformationofthosereaderswhohavepaidlittleattentiontotheprogressofdiscoveryintheseregions,togivesomebriefaccountoftheveryfewattemptsatreachingthesouthernpolewhichhavehithertobeenmade。
ThatofCaptainCookwasthefirstofwhichwehaveanydistinctaccount。In1772hesailedtothesouthintheResolution,accompaniedbyLieutenantFurneauxintheAdventure。InDecemberhefoundhimselfasfarasthefifty-eighthparallelofsouthlatitude,andinlongitude26degrees57’E。Herehemetwithnarrowfieldsofice,abouteightorteninchesthick,andrunningnorthwestandsoutheast。Thisicewasinlargecakes,andusuallyitwaspackedsocloselythatthevesselhadgreatdifficultyinforcingapassage。AtthisperiodCaptainCooksupposed,fromthevastnumberofbirdstobeseen,andfromotherindications,thathewasinthenearvicinityofland。Hekeptontothesouthward,theweatherbeingexceedinglycold,untilhereachedthesixty-fourthparallel,inlongitude38
degrees14’W……Herehehadmildweather,withgentlebreezes,forfivedays,thethermometerbeingatthirty-six。InJanuary,1773,thevesselscrossedtheAntarcticcircle,butdidnotsucceedinpenetratingmuchfarther;foruponreachinglatitude67degrees15’
theyfoundallfartherprogressimpededbyanimmensebodyofice,extendingallalongthesouthernhorizonasfarastheeyecouldreach。Thisicewasofeveryvariety-andsomelargefloesofit,milesinextent,formedacompactmass,risingeighteenortwentyfeetabovethewater。Itbeinglateintheseason,andnohopeentertainedofroundingtheseobstructions,CaptainCooknowreluctantlyturnedtothenorthward。
IntheNovemberfollowingherenewedhissearchintheAntarctic。Inlatitude59degrees40’hemetwithastrongcurrentsettingtothesouthward。InDecember,whenthevesselswereinlatitude67degrees31’,longitude142degrees54’W。,thecoldwasexcessive,withheavygalesandfog。Herealsobirdswereabundant;
thealbatross,thepenguin,andthepeterelespecially。Inlatitude70degrees23’somelargeislandsoficewereencountered,andshortlyafterwardthecloudstothesouthwardwereobservedtobeofasnowywhiteness,indicatingthevicinityoffieldice。Inlatitude71degrees10’,longitude106degrees54’W。,thenavigatorswerestopped,asbefore,byanimmensefrozenexpanse,whichfilledthewholeareaofthesouthernhorizon。Thenorthernedgeofthisexpansewasraggedandbroken,sofirmlywedgedtogetherastobeutterlyimpassible,andextendingaboutamiletothesouthward。Behinditthefrozensurfacewascomparativelysmoothforsomedistance,untilterminatedintheextremebackgroundbygiganticrangesoficemountains,theonetoweringabovetheother。CaptainCookconcludedthatthisvastfieldreachedthesouthernpoleorwasjoinedtoacontinent。Mr。J。N。Reynolds,whosegreatexertionsandperseverancehaveatlengthsucceededingettingsetonfootanationalexpedition,partlyforthepurposeofexploringtheseregions,thusspeaksoftheattemptoftheResolution。“WearenotsurprisedthatCaptainCookwasunabletogobeyond71degrees10’,butweareastonishedthathedidattainthatpointonthemeridianof106
degrees54’westlongitude。Palmer’sLandliessouthoftheShetland,latitudesixty-fourdegrees,andtendstothesouthwardandwestwardfartherthananynavigatorhasyetpenetrated。Cookwasstandingforthislandwhenhisprogresswasarrestedbytheice;which,weapprehend,mustalwaysbethecaseinthatpoint,andsoearlyintheseasonasthesixthofJanuary-andweshouldnotbesurprisedifaportionoftheicymountainsdescribedwasattachedtothemainbodyofPalmer’sLand,ortosomeotherportionsoflandlyingfarthertothesouthwardandwestward。”
In1803,CaptainsKreutzensternandLisiauskyweredispatchedbyAlexanderofRussiaforthepurposeofcircumnavigatingtheglobe。Inendeavouringtogetsouth,theymadenofartherthan59degrees58’,inlongitude70degrees15’W。Theyheremetwithstrongcurrentssettingeastwardly。Whaleswereabundant,buttheysawnoice。Inregardtothisvoyage,Mr。Reynoldsobservesthat,ifKreutzensternhadarrivedwherehedidearlierintheseason,hemusthaveencounteredice-itwasMarchwhenhereachedthelatitudespecified。
Thewinds,prevailing,astheydo,fromthesouthwardandwestward,hadcarriedthefloes,aidedbycurrents,intothaticyregionboundedonthenorthbyGeorgia,eastbySandwichLandandtheSouthOrkneys,andwestbytheSouthShetlandislands。
In1822,CaptainJamesWeddell,oftheBritishnavy,withtwoverysmallvessels,penetratedfarthertothesouththananypreviousnavigator,andthis,too,withoutencounteringextraordinarydifficulties。Hestatesthatalthoughhewasfrequentlyhemmedinbyicebeforereachingtheseventy-secondparallel,yet,uponattainingit,notaparticlewastobediscovered,andthat,uponarrivingatthelatitudeof74degrees15’,nofields,andonlythreeislandsoficewerevisible。Itissomewhatremarkablethat,althoughvastflocksofbirdswereseen,andotherusualindicationsofland,andalthough,southoftheShetlands,unknowncoastswereobservedfromthemastheadtendingsouthwardly,Weddelldiscouragestheideaoflandexistinginthepolarregionsofthesouth。
Onthe11thofJanuary,1823,CaptainBenjaminMorrell,oftheAmericanschoonerWasp,sailedfromKerguelen’sLandwithaviewofpenetratingasfarsouthaspossible。OnthefirstofFebruaryhefoundhimselfinlatitude64degrees52’S。,longitude118degrees27’E。Thefollowingpassageisextractedfromhisjournalofthatdate。“Thewindsoonfreshenedtoaneleven-knotbreeze,andweembracedthisopportunityofmakingtothewest,;beinghoweverconvincedthatthefartherwewentsouthbeyondlatitudesixty-fourdegrees,thelessicewastobeapprehended,westeeredalittletothesouthward,untilwecrossedtheAntarcticcircle,andwereinlatitude69degrees15’E。Inthislatitudetherewasnofieldice,andveryfewiceislandsinsight。
UnderthedateofMarchfourteenthIfindalsothisentry。Theseawasnowentirelyfreeoffieldice,andtherewerenotmorethanadozeniceislandsinsight。Atthesametimethetemperatureoftheairandwaterwasatleastthirteendegreeshighermoremildthanwehadeverfounditbetweentheparallelsofsixtyandsixty-twosouth。Wewerenowinlatitude70degrees14’S。,andthetemperatureoftheairwasforty-seven,andthatofthewaterforty-four。InthissituationIfoundthevariationtobe14degrees27’easterly,perazimuth……IhaveseveraltimespassedwithintheAntarcticcircle,ondifferentmeridians,andhaveuniformlyfoundthetemperature,bothoftheairandthewater,tobecomemoreandmoremildthefartherIadvancedbeyondthesixty-fifthdegreeofsouthlatitude,andthatthevariationdecreasesinthesameproportion。Whilenorthofthislatitude,saybetweensixtyandsixty-fivesouth,wefrequentlyhadgreatdifficultyinfindingapassageforthevesselbetweentheimmenseandalmostinnumerableiceislands,someofwhichwerefromonetotwomilesincircumference,andmorethanfivehundredfeetabovethesurfaceofthewater。”
Beingnearlydestituteoffuelandwater,andwithoutproperinstruments,itbeingalsolateintheseason,CaptainMorrellwasnowobligedtoputback,withoutattemptinganyfurtherprogresstothewestward,althoughanentirelyopen,sealaybeforehim。Heexpressestheopinionthat,hadnottheseoverrulingconsiderationsobligedhimtoretreat,hecouldhavepenetrated,ifnottothepoleitself,atleasttotheeighty-fifthparallel。Ihavegivenhisideasrespectingthesematterssomewhatatlength,thatthereadermayhaveanopportunityofseeinghowfartheywereborneoutbymyownsubsequentexperience。
In1831,CaptainBriscoe,intheemployoftheMessieursEnderby,whale-shipownersofLondon,sailedinthebrigLivelyfortheSouthSeas,accompaniedbythecutterTula。Onthetwenty-eighthofFebruary,beinginlatitude66degrees30’S。,longitude47