Thisisland,orrathergroupofislands,bearssoutheastfromtheCapeofGoodHope,andisdistanttherefromnearlyeighthundredleagues。Itwasfirstdiscoveredin1772,bytheBarondeKergulen,orKerguelen,aFrenchman,who,thinkingthelandtoformaportionofanextensivesoutherncontinentcarriedhomeinformationtothateffect,whichproducedmuchexcitementatthetime。Thegovernment,takingthematterup,sentthebaronbackinthefollowingyearforthepurposeofgivinghisnewdiscoveryacriticalexamination,whenthemistakewasdiscovered。In1777,CaptainCookfellinwiththesamegroup,andgavetotheprincipalonethenameofDesolationIsland,atitlewhichitcertainlywelldeserves。Uponapproachingtheland,however,thenavigatormightbeinducedtosupposeotherwise,asthesidesofmostofthehills,fromSeptembertoMarch,areclothedwithverybrilliantverdure。Thisdeceitfulappearanceiscausedbyasmallplantresemblingsaxifrage,whichisabundant,growinginlargepatchesonaspeciesofcrumblingmoss。
Besidesthisplantthereisscarcelyasignofvegetationontheisland,ifweexceptsomecoarserankgrassneartheharbor,somelichen,andashrubwhichbearsresemblancetoacabbageshootingintoseed,andwhichhasabitterandacridtaste。
Thefaceofthecountryishilly,althoughnoneofthehillscanbecalledlofty。Theirtopsareperpetuallycoveredwithsnow。Thereareseveralharbors,ofwhichChristmasHarbouristhemostconvenient。ItisthefirsttobemetwithonthenortheastsideoftheislandafterpassingCapeFrancois,whichformsthenorthernshore,and,byitspeculiarshape,servestodistinguishtheharbour。
Itsprojectingpointterminatesinahighrock,throughwhichisalargehole,forminganaturalarch。Theentranceisinlatitude48
degrees40’S。,longitude69degrees6’E。Passinginhere,goodanchoragemaybefoundundertheshelterofseveralsmallislands,whichformasufficientprotectionfromalleasterlywinds。
ProceedingoneastwardlyfromthisanchorageyoucometoWaspBay,attheheadoftheharbour。Thisisasmallbasin,completelylandlocked,intowhichyoucangowithfourfathoms,andfindanchorageinfromtentothree,hardclaybottom。Ashipmightlieherewithherbestboweraheadalltheyearroundwithoutrisk。Tothewestward,attheheadofWaspBay,isasmallstreamofexcellentwater,easilyprocured。
SomesealofthefurandhairspeciesarestilltobefoundonKerguelen’sIsland,andseaelephantsabound。Thefeatheredtribesarediscoveredingreatnumbers。Penguinsareveryplenty,andofthesetherearefourdifferentkinds。Theroyalpenguin,socalledfromitssizeandbeautifulplumage,isthelargest。Theupperpartofthebodyisusuallygray,sometimesofalilactint;theunderportionofthepurestwhiteimaginable。Theheadisofaglossyandmostbrilliantblack,thefeetalso。Thechiefbeautyofplumage,however,consistsintwobroadstripesofagoldcolor,whichpassalongfromtheheadtothebreast。Thebillislong,andeitherpinkorbrightscarlet。Thesebirdswalkerect;withastatelycarriage。
Theycarrytheirheadshighwiththeirwingsdroopingliketwoarms,and,astheirtailsprojectfromtheirbodyinalinewiththelegs,theresemblancetoahumanfigureisverystriking,andwouldbeapttodeceivethespectatoratacasualglanceorinthegloomoftheevening。TheroyalpenguinswhichwemetwithonKerguelen’sLandwereratherlargerthanagoose。Theotherkindsarethemacaroni,thejackass,andtherookerypenguin。Thesearemuchsmaller,lessbeautifulinplumage,anddifferentinotherrespects。
Besidesthepenguinmanyotherbirdsareheretobefound,amongwhichmaybementionedsea-hens,bluepeterels,teal,ducks,PortEgmonthens,shags,Capepigeons,thenelly,seaswallows,terns,seagulls,MotherCarey’schickens,MotherCarey’sgeese,orthegreatpeterel,and,lastly,thealbatross。
Thegreatpeterelisaslargeasthecommonalbatross,andiscarnivorous。Itisfrequentlycalledthebreak-bones,orospreypeterel。Theyarenotatallshy,and,whenproperlycooked,arepalatablefood。Inflyingtheysometimessailveryclosetothesurfaceofthewater,withthewingsexpanded,withoutappearingtomovethemintheleastdegree,ormakeanyexertionwiththemwhatever。
ThealbatrossisoneofthelargestandfiercestoftheSouthSeabirds。Itisofthegullspecies,andtakesitspreyonthewing,nevercomingonlandexceptforthepurposeofbreeding。Betweenthisbirdandthepenguinthemostsingularfriendshipexists。Theirnestsareconstructedwithgreatuniformityuponaplanconcertedbetweenthetwospecies-thatofthealbatrossbeingplacedinthecentreofalittlesquareformedbythenestsoffourpenguins。Navigatorshaveagreedincallinganassemblageofsuchencampmentsarookery。Theserookerieshavebeenoftendescribed,butasmyreadersmaynotallhaveseenthesedescriptions,andasIshallhaveoccasionhereaftertospeakofthepenguinandalbatross,itwillnotbeamisstosaysomethinghereoftheirmodeofbuildingandliving。
Whentheseasonforincubationarrives,thebirdsassembleinvastnumbers,andforsomedaysappeartobedeliberatinguponthepropercoursetobepursued。Atlengththeyproceedtoaction。Alevelpieceofgroundisselected,ofsuitableextent,usuallycomprisingthreeorfouracres,andsituatedasneartheseaaspossible,beingstillbeyonditsreach。Thespotischosenwithreferencetoitsevennessofsurface,andthatispreferredwhichistheleastencumberedwithstones。Thismatterbeingarranged,thebirdsproceed,withoneaccord,andactuatedapparentlybyonemind,totraceout,withmathematicalaccuracy,eitherasquareorotherparallelogram,asmaybestsuitthenatureoftheground,andofjustsufficientsizetoaccommodateeasilyallthebirdsassembled,andnomore-inthisparticularseemingdetermineduponpreventingtheaccessoffuturestragglerswhohavenotparticipatedinthelaboroftheencampment。
Onesideoftheplacethusmarkedoutrunsparallelwiththewater’sedge,andisleftopenforingressoregress。
Havingdefinedthelimitsoftherookery,thecolonynowbegintoclearitofeveryspeciesofrubbish,pickingupstonebystone,andcarryingthemoutsideofthelines,andclosebythem,soastoformawallonthethreeinlandsides。Justwithinthiswallaperfectlylevelandsmoothwalkisformed,fromsixtoeightfeetwide,andextendingaroundtheencampment-thusservingthepurposeofageneralpromenade。
Thenextprocessistopartitionoutthewholeareaintosmallsquaresexactlyequalinsize。Thisisdonebyformingnarrowpaths,verysmooth,andcrossingeachotheratrightanglesthroughouttheentireextentoftherookery。Ateachintersectionofthesepathsthenestofanalbatrossisconstructed,andapenguin’snestinthecentreofeachsquare-thuseverypenguinissurroundedbyfouralbatrosses,andeachalbatrossbyalikenumberofpenguins。Thepenguin’snestconsistsofaholeintheearth,veryshallow,beingonlyjustofsufficientdepthtokeephersingleeggfromrolling。
Thealbatrossissomewhatlesssimpleinherarrangements,erectingahillockaboutafoothighandtwoindiameter。Thisismadeofearth,seaweed,andshells。Onitssummitshebuildshernest。
Thebirdstakeespecialcarenevertoleavetheirnestsunoccupiedforaninstantduringtheperiodofincubation,or,indeed,untiltheyoungprogenyaresufficientlystrongtotakecareofthemselves。Whilethemaleisabsentatseainsearchoffood,thefemaleremainsonduty,anditisonlyuponthereturnofherpartnerthatsheventuresabroad。Theeggsareneverleftuncoveredatall
whileonebirdleavesthenesttheothernestlinginbyitsside。
Thisprecautionisrenderednecessarybythethievingpropensitiesprevalentintherookery,theinhabitantsmakingnoscrupletopurloineachother’seggsateverygoodopportunity。
Althoughtherearesomerookeriesinwhichthepenguinandalbatrossarethesolepopulation,yetinmostofthemavarietyofoceanicbirdsaretobemetwith,enjoyingalltheprivilegesofcitizenship,andscatteringtheirnestshereandthere,wherevertheycanfindroom,neverinterfering,however,withthestationsofthelargerspecies。Theappearanceofsuchencampments,whenseenfromadistance,isexceedinglysingular。Thewholeatmospherejustabovethesettlementisdarkenedwiththeimmensenumberofthealbatrossmingledwiththesmallertribeswhicharecontinuallyhoveringoverit,eithergoingtotheoceanorreturninghome。Atthesametimeacrowdofpenguinsaretobeobserved,somepassingtoandfrointhenarrowalleys,andsomemarchingwiththemilitarystrutsopeculiartothem,aroundthegeneralpromenadegroundwhichencirclestherookery。Inshort,surveyitaswewill,nothingcanbemoreastonishingthanthespiritofreflectionevincedbythesefeatheredbeings,andnothingsurelycanbebettercalculatedtoelicitreflectionineverywell-regulatedhumanintellect。
OnthemorningafterourarrivalinChristmasHarbourthechiefmate,Mr。Patterson,tooktheboats,andalthoughitwassomewhatearlyintheseasonwentinsearchofseal,leavingthecaptainandayoungrelationofhisonapointofbarrenlandtothewestward,theyhavingsomebusiness,whosenatureIcouldnotascertain,totransactintheinterioroftheisland。CaptainGuytookwithhimabottle,inwhichwasasealedletter,andmadehiswayfromthepointonwhichhewassetonshoretowardoneofthehighestpeaksintheplace。Itisprobablethathisdesignwastoleavetheletteronthatheightforsomevesselwhichheexpectedtocomeafterhim。AssoonaswelostsightofhimweproceededPetersandmyselfbeinginthemate’sboatonourcruisearoundthecoast,lookingforseal。Inthisbusinesswewereoccupiedaboutthreeweeks,examiningwithgreatcareeverynookandcorner,notonlyofKerguelen’sLand,butoftheseveralsmallislandsinthevicinity。Ourlabours,however,werenotcrownedwithanyimportantsuccess。Wesawagreatmanyfurseal,buttheywereexceedinglyshy,andwiththegreatestexertions,wecouldonlyprocurethreehundredandfiftyskinsinall。Seaelephantswereabundant,especiallyonthewesterncoastofthemainland,butofthesewekilledonlytwenty,andthiswithgreatdifficulty。Onthesmallerislandswediscoveredagoodmanyofthehairseal,butdidnotmolestthem。Wereturnedtotheschooner:ontheeleventh,wherewefoundCaptainGuyandhisnephew,whogaveaverybadaccountoftheinterior,representingitasoneofthemostdrearyandutterlybarrencountriesintheworld。Theyhadremainedtwonightsontheisland,owingtosomemisunderstanding,onthepartofthesecondmate,inregardtothesendingajollyboatfromtheschoonertotakethemoff。
ONthetwelfthwemadesailfromChristmasHarbourretracingourwaytothewestward,andleavingMarion’sIsland,oneofCrozet’sgroup,onthelarboard。WeafterwardpassedPrinceEdward’sIsland,leavingitalsoonourleft,then,steeringmoretothenorthward,made,infifteendays,theislandsofTristand’Acunha,inlatitude37degrees8’S,longitude12degrees8’W。
Thisgroup,nowsowellknown,andwhichconsistsofthreecircularislands,wasfirstdiscoveredbythePortuguese,andwasvisitedafterwardbytheDutchin1643,andbytheFrenchin1767。
Thethreeislandstogetherformatriangle,andaredistantfromeachotherabouttenmiles,therebeingfineopenpassagesbetween。Thelandinallofthemisveryhigh,especiallyinTristand’Acunha,properlysocalled。Thisisthelargestofthegroup,beingfifteenmilesincircumference,andsoelevatedthatitcanbeseeninclearweatheratthedistanceofeightyorninetymiles。Apartofthelandtowardthenorthrisesmorethanathousandfeetperpendicularlyfromthesea。Atablelandatthisheightextendsbacknearlytothecentreoftheisland,andfromthistablelandarisesaloftyconelikethatofTeneriffe。Thelowerhalfofthisconeisclothedwithtreesofgoodsize,buttheupperregionisbarrenrock,usuallyhiddenamongtheclouds,andcoveredwithsnowduringthegreaterpartoftheyear。Therearenoshoalsorotherdangersabouttheisland,theshoresbeingremarkablyboldandthewaterdeep。Onthenorthwesterncoastisabay,withabeachofblacksandwherealandingwithboatscanbeeasilyeffected,providedtherebeasoutherlywind。Plentyofexcellentwatermayherebereadilyprocured;alsocodandotherfishmaybetakenwithhookandline。
Thenextislandinpointofsize,andthemostwestwardlyofthegroup,isthatcalledtheInaccessible。Itsprecisesituationis37
degrees17’S。latitude,longitude12degrees24’W。Itissevenoreightmilesincircumference,andonallsidespresentsaforbiddingandprecipitousaspect。Itstopisperfectlyflat,andthewholeregionissterile,nothinggrowinguponitexceptafewstuntedshrubs。
NightingaleIsland,thesmallestandmostsoutherly,isinlatitude37degrees26’S。,longitude12degrees12’W。Offitssouthernextremityisahighledgeofrockyislets;afewalsoofasimilarappearanceareseentothenortheast。Thegroundisirregularandsterile,andadeepvalleypartiallyseparatesit。
Theshoresoftheseislandsabound,intheproperseason,withsealions,seaelephants,thehairandfurseal,togetherwithagreatvarietyofoceanicbirds。Whalesarealsoplentyintheirvicinity。Owingtotheeasewithwhichthesevariousanimalswerehereformerlytaken,thegrouphasbeenmuchvisitedsinceitsdiscovery。TheDutchandFrenchfrequenteditataveryearlyperiod。
In1790,CaptainPatten,oftheshipIndustry,ofPhiladelphia,madeTristand’Acunha,whereheremainedsevenmonthsfromAugust,1790,toApril,1791forthepurposeofcollectingsealskins。Inthistimehegatherednolessthanfivethousandsixhundred,andsaysthathewouldhavehadnodifficultyinloadingalargeshipwithoilinthreeweeks。Uponhisarrivalhefoundnoquadrupeds,withtheexceptionofafewwildgoats;theislandnowaboundswithallourmostvaluabledomesticanimals,whichhavebeenintroducedbysubsequentnavigators。
IbelieveitwasnotlongafterCaptainPatten’svisitthatCaptainColquhoun,oftheAmericanbrigBetsey,touchedatthelargestoftheislandsforthepurposeofrefreshment。Heplantedonions,potatoes,cabbages,andagreatmanyothervegetables,anabundanceofallwhichisnowtobemetwith。
In1811,aCaptainHaywood,intheNereus,visitedTristan。HefoundtherethreeAmericans,whowereresidingupontheislandtopreparesealskinsandoil。OneofthesemenwasnamedJonathanLambert,andhecalledhimselfthesovereignofthecountry。Hehadclearedandcultivatedaboutsixtyacresofland,andturnedhisattentiontoraisingthecoffee-plantandsugar-cane,withwhichhehadbeenfurnishedbytheAmericanMinisteratRioJaneiro。Thissettlement,however,wasfinallyabandoned,andin1817theislandsweretakenpossessionofbytheBritishGovernment,whosentadetachmentforthatpurposefromtheCapeofGoodHope。Theydidnot,however,retainthemlong;but,upontheevacuationofthecountryasaBritishpossession,twoorthreeEnglishfamiliestookuptheirresidencethereindependentlyoftheGovernment。Onthetwenty-fifthofMarch,1824,theBerwick,CaptainJeffrey,fromLondontoVanDiemen’sLand,arrivedattheplace,wheretheyfoundanEnglishmanofthenameofGlass,formerlyacorporalintheBritishartillery。