ThebookwasavolumeofmyJournal;and,asIwasdetainedlongerthanIexpectedatLoanda,thisbook,withaletter,wasdeliveredbySekeletutoatrader,andIhavebeenunabletotraceitIregretthisnow,asitcontainedvaluablenotesonthehabitsofwildanimals,andtherequestwasmadeinthelettertoconveythevolumetomyfamily。
Theprospectofpassingawayfromthisfairandbeautifulworldthuscamebeforemeinaprettyplain,matter-of-factform,anditdidseemaseriousthingtoleavewifeandchildrentobreakupallconnectionwithearth,andenteronanuntriedstateofexistence;
andIfindmyselfinmyjournalponderingoverthatfearfulmigrationwhichlandsusineternity,wonderingwhetheranangelwillsoothetheflutteringsoul,sadlyflurriedasitmustbeonenteringthespiritworld,andhopingthatJesusmightspeakbutonewordofpeace,forthatwouldestablishinthebosomaneverlastingcalm。
ButasIhadalwaysbelievedthat,ifweserveGodatall,itoughttobedoneinamanlyway,Iwrotetomybrother,commendingourlittlegirltohiscare,asIwasdeterminedto“succeedorperish“intheattempttoopenupthispartofAfricaTheBoers,bytakingpossessionofallmygoods,hadsavedmethetroubleofmakingawill;and,consideringthelightheartnowleftinmybosom,andsomefainteffortstoperformthedutyofChristianforgiveness,Ifeltthatitwasbettertobetheplunderedpartythanoneoftheplunderers。
WhenIcommittedthewagonandremaininggoodstothecareoftheMakololo,theytookallthearticlesexceptoneboxintotheirhuts;
andtwowarriors,PonuaneandMahale,broughtforwardeachafineheifercalf。
Afterperforminganumberofwarlikeevolutions,theyaskedthechieftowitnesstheagreementmadebetweenthem,thatwhoeverofthetwoshouldkillaMatebelewarriorfirst,indefenseofthewagon,shouldpossessboththecalves。
Ihadthreemusketsformypeople,arifleanddouble-barreledsmooth-boreformyself;and,havingseensuchgreatabundanceofgameinmyvisittotheLeeba,IimaginedthatIcouldeasilysupplythewantsofmypartyWishingalsotoavoidthediscouragementwhichwouldnaturallybefeltonmeetinganyobstaclesifmycompanionswereobligedtocarryheavyloads,Itookonlyafewbiscuits,afewpoundsofteaandsugar,andabouttwentyofcoffee,which,astheArabsfind,thoughusedwithouteithermilkorsugar,isamostrefreshingbeverageafterfatigueorexposuretothesun。
Wecarriedonesmalltincanister,aboutfifteeninchessquare,filledwithspareshirting,trowsers,andshoes,tobeusedwhenwereachedcivilizedlife,andothersinabag,whichwereexpectedtowearoutontheway;anotherofthesamesizeformedicines;andathirdforbooks,mystockbeingaNauticalAlmanac,Thomson’sLogarithmTables,andaBible;
afourthboxcontainedamagiclantern,whichwefoundofmuchuse。
Thesextantandartificialhorizon,thermometer,andcompasseswerecarriedapartMyammunitionwasdistributedinportionsthroughthewholeluggage,sothat,ifanaccidentshouldbefallonepart,wecouldstillhaveotherstofallbackuponOurchiefhopesforfoodwereuponthat;butincaseoffailure,Itookabout20lbsofbeads,worth40s。,whichstillremainedofthestockIbroughtfromCapeTown,asmallgipsytent,justsufficienttosleepin,asheep-skinmantleasablanket,andahorse-rugasabedAsIhadalwaysfoundthattheartofsuccessfultravelconsistedintakingasfew“impedimenta“
aspossible,andnotforgettingtocarrymywitsaboutme,theoutfitwasratherspare,andintendedtobestillmoresowhenweshouldcometoleavethecanoesSomewouldconsideritinjudicioustoadoptthisplan,butIhadasecretconvictionthatifIdidnotsucceed,itwouldnotbeforwantofthe“knick-knacks“advertisedasindispensablefortravelers,butfromwantof“pluck“,orbecausealargearrayofbaggageexcitedthecupidityofthetribesthroughwhosecountrywewishedtopass。
TheinstrumentsIcarried,thoughfew,werethebestoftheirkind。
Asextant,bythefamedmakersTroughtonandSims,ofFleetStreet;
achronometerwatch,withastoptothesecondshand
anadmirablecontrivanceforenablingapersontotaketheexacttimeofobservations:itwasconstructedbyDent,oftheStrand61,fortheRoyalGeographicalSociety,andselectedfortheservicebythePresident,AdmiralSmythe,towhosejudgmentandkindnessIaminthisandothermattersdeeplyindebted。
ItwaspronouncedbyMrMacleartoequalmostchronometersinperformance。
FortheseexcellentinstrumentsIhavemuchpleasureinrecordingmyobligationstomygoodfriendColonelSteele,andatthesametimetoMrMaclearformuchofmyabilitytousethemBesidesthese,IhadathermometerbyDollond;acompassfromtheCapeObservatory,andasmallpocketoneinaddition;agoodsmalltelescopewithastandcapableofbeingscrewedintoatree。
11THOFNOVEMBER,1853LeftthetownofLinyanti,accompaniedbySekeletuandhisprincipalmen,toembarkontheChobe。
Thechiefcametotheriverinordertoseethatallwasrightatparting。
WecrossedfivebranchesoftheChobebeforereachingthemainstream:
thisramificationmustbethereasonwhyitappearedsosmalltoMrOswellandmyselfin1851Whenallthedepartingbranchesre-enter,itisalarge,deepriverThespotofembarkationwastheidenticalislandwherewemetSebituane,firstknownastheislandofMaunku,oneofhiswives。
Thechieflentmehisowncanoe,and,asitwasbroaderthanusual,Icouldturnaboutinitwithease。
TheChobeismuchinfestedbyhippopotami,and,ascertainelderlymalesareexpelledtheherd,theybecomesouredintheirtemper,andsomisanthropicastoattackeverycanoethatpassesnearthem。
Theherdisneverdangerous,exceptwhenacanoepassesintothemidstofitwhenallareasleep,andsomeofthemmaystrikethecanoeinterror。
Toavoidthis,itisgenerallyrecommendedtotravelbydaynearthebank,andbynightinthemiddleofthestreamAsarule,theseanimalsfleetheapproachofmanThe“solitaires“,however,frequentcertainlocalitieswellknowntotheinhabitantsonthebanks,and,liketherogueelephants,areextremelydangerousWecame,atthistime,toacanoewhichhadbeensmashedtopiecesbyablowfromthehindfootofoneofthem。
Iwasinformedbymymenthat,intheeventofasimilarassaultbeingmadeuponours,theproperwaywastodivetothebottomoftheriver,andholdonthereforafewseconds,becausethehippopotamus,afterbreakingacanoe,alwayslooksforthepeopleonthesurface,and,ifheseesnone,hesoonmovesoffIhaveseensomefrightfulgashesmadeonthelegsofthepeoplewhohavehadthemisfortunetobeattacked,andwereunabletodiveThisanimaluseshisteethasanoffensiveweapon,thoughheisquiteaherbivorousfeederOneofthese“bachelors“,livingneartheconfluence,actuallycameoutofhislair,and,puttinghisheaddown,ranaftersomeofourmenwhowerepassingwithveryconsiderablespeed。
ThepartoftherivercalledZabesa,orZabenza,isspreadoutlikealittlelake,surroundedonallsidesbydensemassesoftallreeds。
Theriverbelowthatisalwaysonehundredoronehundredandtwentyyardsbroad,deep,andneverdriesupsomuchastobecomefordable。
Atcertainparts,wherethepartialabsenceofreedsaffordsaviewoftheoppositebanks,theMakololohaveplacedvillagesofobservationagainsttheirenemiestheMatebeleWevisitedalltheseinsuccession,andfoundhere,aseverywhereintheMakololocountry,ordershadprecededus,“thatNakenyakemeansdoctormustnotbeallowedtobecomehungry。”
ThebanksoftheChobe,likethoseoftheZouga,areofsoftcalcareoustufa,andtheriverhascutoutforitselfadeep,perpendicular-sidedbed。
Wherethebanksarehigh,asatthespotwherethewagonsstoodin1851,theyarecoveredwithmagnificenttrees,thehabitatoftsetse,andtheretreatofvariousantelopes,wildhogs,zebras,buffaloes,andelephants。
Amongthetreesmaybeobservedsomespeciesofthe`FicusIndica’,light-greencoloredacacias,thesplendidmotsintsela,andevergreencypress-shapedmotsouriThefruitofthelast-namedwasripe,andthevillagerspresentedmanydishesofitsbeautifulpink-coloredplums;
theyareusedchieflytoformapleasantaciddrinkThemotsintselaisaveryloftytree,yieldingawoodofwhichgoodcanoesaremade;
thefruitisnutritiousandgood,but,likemanywildfruitsofthiscountry,thefleshypartsrequiretobeenlargedbycultivation:
itisnearlyallstone。
Thecourseoftheriverwefoundtobeextremelytortuous;somuchso,indeed,astocarryustoallpointsofthecompasseverydozenmiles。
SomeofuswalkedfromabendatthevillageofMoremitoanothernearlydueeastofthatpoint,insixhours,whilethecanoes,goingatmorethandoubleourspeed,tooktwelvetoaccomplishthevoyagebetweenthesametwoplacesAndthoughtheriverisfromthirteentofifteenfeetindepthatitslowestebb,andbroadenoughtoallowasteamertoplyuponit,thesuddennessofthebendingswouldpreventnavigation;but,shouldthecountryeverbecomecivilized,theChobewouldbeaconvenientnaturalcanalWespentforty-twoandahalfhours,paddlingattherateoffivemilesanhour,incomingfromLinyantitotheconfluence;therewefoundadikeofamygdaloidlyingacrosstheLeeambye。
Thisamygdaloidwithanalamiandmesotypecontainscrystals,whichthewatergraduallydissolves,leavingtherockwithaworm-eatenappearance。
Itiscurioustoobservethatthewaterflowingovercertainrocks,asinthisinstance,imbibesanappreciable,thoughnecessarilymostminute,portionofthemineralstheycontainThewateroftheChobeuptothispointisofadarkmossyhue,buthereitsuddenlyassumesalightertint;
andwhereverthislightcolorshowsagreateramountofmineral,therearenotmosquitoesenoughtocauseseriousannoyancetoanyexceptpersonsofveryirritabletemperaments。
ThelargeislandcalledMpariastandsattheconfluence。
Thisiscomposedoftrapzeolite,probablymesotypeofayoungeragethanthedeepstratumoftufainwhichtheChobehasformeditsbed,for,atthepointwheretheycometogether,thetufahasbeentransformedintosaccharoidlimestone。
Theactualpointofconfluenceofthesetworivers,theChobeandtheLeeambye,isilldefined,onaccountofeachdividingintoseveralbranchesastheyinosculate;butwhenthewholebodyofwatercollectsintoonebed,itisagoodlysightforonewhohasspentmanyyearsinthethirstysouthStandingononebank,eventhekeeneyeofthenativescannotdetectwhethertwolargeislands,afewmileseastofthejunction,aremainlandornotDuringaflightinformeryears,whenthepresentchiefSekomiwasachildinhismother’sarms,theBamangwatomenwereseparatedfromtheirwomen,andinveigledontooneoftheseislandsbytheMakalakachiefofMparia,onpretenseofferryingthemacrosstheLeeambyeTheywerelefttoperishafterseeingtheirwivestakenprisonersbythesecruellordsoftheLeeambye,andSekomiowedhislifetothecompassionofoneoftheBayeiye,who,pityingtheyoungchieftain,enabledhismothertomakeherescapebynight。
AfterspendingonenightattheMakololovillageonMparia,welefttheChobe,and,turninground,begantoascendtheLeeambye;onthe19thofNovemberweagainreachedthetownofSeshekeItstandsonthenorthbankoftheriver,andcontainsalargepopulationofMakalaka,underMoriantsane,brother-in-lawofSebituaneTherearepartiesofvarioustribeshere,assembledundertheirrespectiveheadmen,butafewMakololoruleoverall。
Theirsway,thoughessentiallydespotic,isconsiderablymodifiedbycertaincustomsandlawsOneoftheMakalakahadspearedanoxbelongingtooneoftheMakololo,and,beingunabletoextractthespear,wastherebydiscoveredtobetheperpetratorofthedeedHisobjecthadbeentogetashareofthemeat,asMoriantsaneisknowntobeliberalwithanyfoodthatcomesintohishandsTheculpritwasboundhandandfoot,andplacedinthesuntoforcehimtopayafine,buthecontinuedtodenyhisguiltHismother,believingintheinnocenceofherson,nowcameforward,withherhoeinhand,and,threateningtocutdownanyonewhoshoulddaretointerfere,untiedthecordswithwhichhehadbeenboundandtookhimhomeThisopendefianceofauthoritywasnotresentedbyMoriantsane,butreferredtoSekeletuatLinyanti。
Thefollowingcircumstance,whichhappenedherewhenIwaspresentwithSekeletu,showsthatthesimplemodeofpunishment,byforcingacriminaltoworkoutafine,didnotstriketheMakololominduntilnow。
AstrangerhavingvisitedSeshekeforthepurposeofbarter,wasrobbedbyoneoftheMakalakaofmostofhisgoodsThethief,whencaught,confessedthetheft,andthathehadgiventhearticlestoapersonwhohadremovedtoadistanceTheMakololoweremuchenragedattheideaoftheirgoodnamebeingcompromisedbythistreatmentofastranger。