ThebookwasavolumeofmyJournal;and,asIwasdetainedlongerthanIexpectedatLoanda,thisbook,withaletter,wasdeliveredbySekeletutoatrader,andIhavebeenunabletotraceitIregretthisnow,asitcontainedvaluablenotesonthehabitsofwildanimals,andtherequestwasmadeinthelettertoconveythevolumetomyfamily。
  Theprospectofpassingawayfromthisfairandbeautifulworldthuscamebeforemeinaprettyplain,matter-of-factform,anditdidseemaseriousthingtoleavewifeandchildrentobreakupallconnectionwithearth,andenteronanuntriedstateofexistence;
  andIfindmyselfinmyjournalponderingoverthatfearfulmigrationwhichlandsusineternity,wonderingwhetheranangelwillsoothetheflutteringsoul,sadlyflurriedasitmustbeonenteringthespiritworld,andhopingthatJesusmightspeakbutonewordofpeace,forthatwouldestablishinthebosomaneverlastingcalm。
  ButasIhadalwaysbelievedthat,ifweserveGodatall,itoughttobedoneinamanlyway,Iwrotetomybrother,commendingourlittlegirltohiscare,asIwasdeterminedto“succeedorperish“intheattempttoopenupthispartofAfricaTheBoers,bytakingpossessionofallmygoods,hadsavedmethetroubleofmakingawill;and,consideringthelightheartnowleftinmybosom,andsomefainteffortstoperformthedutyofChristianforgiveness,Ifeltthatitwasbettertobetheplunderedpartythanoneoftheplunderers。
  WhenIcommittedthewagonandremaininggoodstothecareoftheMakololo,theytookallthearticlesexceptoneboxintotheirhuts;
  andtwowarriors,PonuaneandMahale,broughtforwardeachafineheifercalf。
  Afterperforminganumberofwarlikeevolutions,theyaskedthechieftowitnesstheagreementmadebetweenthem,thatwhoeverofthetwoshouldkillaMatebelewarriorfirst,indefenseofthewagon,shouldpossessboththecalves。
  Ihadthreemusketsformypeople,arifleanddouble-barreledsmooth-boreformyself;and,havingseensuchgreatabundanceofgameinmyvisittotheLeeba,IimaginedthatIcouldeasilysupplythewantsofmypartyWishingalsotoavoidthediscouragementwhichwouldnaturallybefeltonmeetinganyobstaclesifmycompanionswereobligedtocarryheavyloads,Itookonlyafewbiscuits,afewpoundsofteaandsugar,andabouttwentyofcoffee,which,astheArabsfind,thoughusedwithouteithermilkorsugar,isamostrefreshingbeverageafterfatigueorexposuretothesun。
  Wecarriedonesmalltincanister,aboutfifteeninchessquare,filledwithspareshirting,trowsers,andshoes,tobeusedwhenwereachedcivilizedlife,andothersinabag,whichwereexpectedtowearoutontheway;anotherofthesamesizeformedicines;andathirdforbooks,mystockbeingaNauticalAlmanac,Thomson’sLogarithmTables,andaBible;
  afourthboxcontainedamagiclantern,whichwefoundofmuchuse。
  Thesextantandartificialhorizon,thermometer,andcompasseswerecarriedapartMyammunitionwasdistributedinportionsthroughthewholeluggage,sothat,ifanaccidentshouldbefallonepart,wecouldstillhaveotherstofallbackuponOurchiefhopesforfoodwereuponthat;butincaseoffailure,Itookabout20lbsofbeads,worth40s。,whichstillremainedofthestockIbroughtfromCapeTown,asmallgipsytent,justsufficienttosleepin,asheep-skinmantleasablanket,andahorse-rugasabedAsIhadalwaysfoundthattheartofsuccessfultravelconsistedintakingasfew“impedimenta“
  aspossible,andnotforgettingtocarrymywitsaboutme,theoutfitwasratherspare,andintendedtobestillmoresowhenweshouldcometoleavethecanoesSomewouldconsideritinjudicioustoadoptthisplan,butIhadasecretconvictionthatifIdidnotsucceed,itwouldnotbeforwantofthe“knick-knacks“advertisedasindispensablefortravelers,butfromwantof“pluck“,orbecausealargearrayofbaggageexcitedthecupidityofthetribesthroughwhosecountrywewishedtopass。
  TheinstrumentsIcarried,thoughfew,werethebestoftheirkind。
  Asextant,bythefamedmakersTroughtonandSims,ofFleetStreet;
  achronometerwatch,withastoptothesecondshand
  anadmirablecontrivanceforenablingapersontotaketheexacttimeofobservations:itwasconstructedbyDent,oftheStrand61,fortheRoyalGeographicalSociety,andselectedfortheservicebythePresident,AdmiralSmythe,towhosejudgmentandkindnessIaminthisandothermattersdeeplyindebted。
  ItwaspronouncedbyMrMacleartoequalmostchronometersinperformance。
  FortheseexcellentinstrumentsIhavemuchpleasureinrecordingmyobligationstomygoodfriendColonelSteele,andatthesametimetoMrMaclearformuchofmyabilitytousethemBesidesthese,IhadathermometerbyDollond;acompassfromtheCapeObservatory,andasmallpocketoneinaddition;agoodsmalltelescopewithastandcapableofbeingscrewedintoatree。
  11THOFNOVEMBER,1853LeftthetownofLinyanti,accompaniedbySekeletuandhisprincipalmen,toembarkontheChobe。
  Thechiefcametotheriverinordertoseethatallwasrightatparting。
  WecrossedfivebranchesoftheChobebeforereachingthemainstream:
  thisramificationmustbethereasonwhyitappearedsosmalltoMrOswellandmyselfin1851Whenallthedepartingbranchesre-enter,itisalarge,deepriverThespotofembarkationwastheidenticalislandwherewemetSebituane,firstknownastheislandofMaunku,oneofhiswives。
  Thechieflentmehisowncanoe,and,asitwasbroaderthanusual,Icouldturnaboutinitwithease。
  TheChobeismuchinfestedbyhippopotami,and,ascertainelderlymalesareexpelledtheherd,theybecomesouredintheirtemper,andsomisanthropicastoattackeverycanoethatpassesnearthem。
  Theherdisneverdangerous,exceptwhenacanoepassesintothemidstofitwhenallareasleep,andsomeofthemmaystrikethecanoeinterror。
  Toavoidthis,itisgenerallyrecommendedtotravelbydaynearthebank,andbynightinthemiddleofthestreamAsarule,theseanimalsfleetheapproachofmanThe“solitaires“,however,frequentcertainlocalitieswellknowntotheinhabitantsonthebanks,and,liketherogueelephants,areextremelydangerousWecame,atthistime,toacanoewhichhadbeensmashedtopiecesbyablowfromthehindfootofoneofthem。
  Iwasinformedbymymenthat,intheeventofasimilarassaultbeingmadeuponours,theproperwaywastodivetothebottomoftheriver,andholdonthereforafewseconds,becausethehippopotamus,afterbreakingacanoe,alwayslooksforthepeopleonthesurface,and,ifheseesnone,hesoonmovesoffIhaveseensomefrightfulgashesmadeonthelegsofthepeoplewhohavehadthemisfortunetobeattacked,andwereunabletodiveThisanimaluseshisteethasanoffensiveweapon,thoughheisquiteaherbivorousfeederOneofthese“bachelors“,livingneartheconfluence,actuallycameoutofhislair,and,puttinghisheaddown,ranaftersomeofourmenwhowerepassingwithveryconsiderablespeed。
  ThepartoftherivercalledZabesa,orZabenza,isspreadoutlikealittlelake,surroundedonallsidesbydensemassesoftallreeds。
  Theriverbelowthatisalwaysonehundredoronehundredandtwentyyardsbroad,deep,andneverdriesupsomuchastobecomefordable。
  Atcertainparts,wherethepartialabsenceofreedsaffordsaviewoftheoppositebanks,theMakololohaveplacedvillagesofobservationagainsttheirenemiestheMatebeleWevisitedalltheseinsuccession,andfoundhere,aseverywhereintheMakololocountry,ordershadprecededus,“thatNakenyakemeansdoctormustnotbeallowedtobecomehungry。”
  ThebanksoftheChobe,likethoseoftheZouga,areofsoftcalcareoustufa,andtheriverhascutoutforitselfadeep,perpendicular-sidedbed。
  Wherethebanksarehigh,asatthespotwherethewagonsstoodin1851,theyarecoveredwithmagnificenttrees,thehabitatoftsetse,andtheretreatofvariousantelopes,wildhogs,zebras,buffaloes,andelephants。
  Amongthetreesmaybeobservedsomespeciesofthe`FicusIndica’,light-greencoloredacacias,thesplendidmotsintsela,andevergreencypress-shapedmotsouriThefruitofthelast-namedwasripe,andthevillagerspresentedmanydishesofitsbeautifulpink-coloredplums;
  theyareusedchieflytoformapleasantaciddrinkThemotsintselaisaveryloftytree,yieldingawoodofwhichgoodcanoesaremade;
  thefruitisnutritiousandgood,but,likemanywildfruitsofthiscountry,thefleshypartsrequiretobeenlargedbycultivation:
  itisnearlyallstone。
  Thecourseoftheriverwefoundtobeextremelytortuous;somuchso,indeed,astocarryustoallpointsofthecompasseverydozenmiles。
  SomeofuswalkedfromabendatthevillageofMoremitoanothernearlydueeastofthatpoint,insixhours,whilethecanoes,goingatmorethandoubleourspeed,tooktwelvetoaccomplishthevoyagebetweenthesametwoplacesAndthoughtheriverisfromthirteentofifteenfeetindepthatitslowestebb,andbroadenoughtoallowasteamertoplyuponit,thesuddennessofthebendingswouldpreventnavigation;but,shouldthecountryeverbecomecivilized,theChobewouldbeaconvenientnaturalcanalWespentforty-twoandahalfhours,paddlingattherateoffivemilesanhour,incomingfromLinyantitotheconfluence;therewefoundadikeofamygdaloidlyingacrosstheLeeambye。
  Thisamygdaloidwithanalamiandmesotypecontainscrystals,whichthewatergraduallydissolves,leavingtherockwithaworm-eatenappearance。
  Itiscurioustoobservethatthewaterflowingovercertainrocks,asinthisinstance,imbibesanappreciable,thoughnecessarilymostminute,portionofthemineralstheycontainThewateroftheChobeuptothispointisofadarkmossyhue,buthereitsuddenlyassumesalightertint;
  andwhereverthislightcolorshowsagreateramountofmineral,therearenotmosquitoesenoughtocauseseriousannoyancetoanyexceptpersonsofveryirritabletemperaments。
  ThelargeislandcalledMpariastandsattheconfluence。
  Thisiscomposedoftrapzeolite,probablymesotypeofayoungeragethanthedeepstratumoftufainwhichtheChobehasformeditsbed,for,atthepointwheretheycometogether,thetufahasbeentransformedintosaccharoidlimestone。
  Theactualpointofconfluenceofthesetworivers,theChobeandtheLeeambye,isilldefined,onaccountofeachdividingintoseveralbranchesastheyinosculate;butwhenthewholebodyofwatercollectsintoonebed,itisagoodlysightforonewhohasspentmanyyearsinthethirstysouthStandingononebank,eventhekeeneyeofthenativescannotdetectwhethertwolargeislands,afewmileseastofthejunction,aremainlandornotDuringaflightinformeryears,whenthepresentchiefSekomiwasachildinhismother’sarms,theBamangwatomenwereseparatedfromtheirwomen,andinveigledontooneoftheseislandsbytheMakalakachiefofMparia,onpretenseofferryingthemacrosstheLeeambyeTheywerelefttoperishafterseeingtheirwivestakenprisonersbythesecruellordsoftheLeeambye,andSekomiowedhislifetothecompassionofoneoftheBayeiye,who,pityingtheyoungchieftain,enabledhismothertomakeherescapebynight。
  AfterspendingonenightattheMakololovillageonMparia,welefttheChobe,and,turninground,begantoascendtheLeeambye;onthe19thofNovemberweagainreachedthetownofSeshekeItstandsonthenorthbankoftheriver,andcontainsalargepopulationofMakalaka,underMoriantsane,brother-in-lawofSebituaneTherearepartiesofvarioustribeshere,assembledundertheirrespectiveheadmen,butafewMakololoruleoverall。
  Theirsway,thoughessentiallydespotic,isconsiderablymodifiedbycertaincustomsandlawsOneoftheMakalakahadspearedanoxbelongingtooneoftheMakololo,and,beingunabletoextractthespear,wastherebydiscoveredtobetheperpetratorofthedeedHisobjecthadbeentogetashareofthemeat,asMoriantsaneisknowntobeliberalwithanyfoodthatcomesintohishandsTheculpritwasboundhandandfoot,andplacedinthesuntoforcehimtopayafine,buthecontinuedtodenyhisguiltHismother,believingintheinnocenceofherson,nowcameforward,withherhoeinhand,and,threateningtocutdownanyonewhoshoulddaretointerfere,untiedthecordswithwhichhehadbeenboundandtookhimhomeThisopendefianceofauthoritywasnotresentedbyMoriantsane,butreferredtoSekeletuatLinyanti。
  Thefollowingcircumstance,whichhappenedherewhenIwaspresentwithSekeletu,showsthatthesimplemodeofpunishment,byforcingacriminaltoworkoutafine,didnotstriketheMakololominduntilnow。
  AstrangerhavingvisitedSeshekeforthepurposeofbarter,wasrobbedbyoneoftheMakalakaofmostofhisgoodsThethief,whencaught,confessedthetheft,andthathehadgiventhearticlestoapersonwhohadremovedtoadistanceTheMakololoweremuchenragedattheideaoftheirgoodnamebeingcompromisedbythistreatmentofastranger。