AttenA。Mwewenttotheresidenceofthecommandant,andonasignalbeinggiven,twoofthefourbrassgunsbelongingtothegovernmentcommencedfiring,andcontinuedsometime,tothegreatadmirationofmymen,whoseideasofthepowerofacannonareveryexalted。
ThePortugueseflagwashoistedandtrumpetssounded,asanexpressionofjoyattheresurrectionofourLord。
CaptainNevesinvitedalltheprincipalinhabitantsoftheplace,anddidwhathecouldtofeasttheminaprincelystyle。
AllmannerofforeignpreservedfruitsandwinefromPortugal,biscuitsfromAmerica,butterfromCork,andbeerfromEngland,weredisplayed,andnoexpensesparedinrenderingtheentertainmentjoyous。
Afterthefeastwasovertheysatdowntothecommonamusementofcard-playing,whichcontinuedtilleleveno’clockatnight。
Asfarasameretravelercouldjudge,theyseemedtobepoliteandwillingtoaideachotherTheyliveinafebriledistrict,andmanyofthemhadenlargedspleensTheyhaveneitherdoctor,apothecary,school,norpriest,and,whentakenill,trusttoeachotherandtoProvidence。
Asmenleftinsuchcircumstancesmustthinkforthemselves,theyhaveallagoodideaofwhatoughttobedoneinthecommondiseasesofthecountry,andwhattheyhaveofeithermedicineorskilltheyfreelyimparttoeachother。
NoneofthesegentlemenhadPortuguesewivesTheyusuallycometoAfricainordertomakealittlemoney,andreturntoLisbonHencetheyseldombringtheirwiveswiththem,andnevercanbesuccessfulcolonistsinconsequenceItiscommonforthemtohavefamiliesbynativewomen。
Itwasparticularlygratifyingtome,whohadbeenfamiliarwiththestupidprejudiceagainstcolor,entertainedonlybythosewhoarethemselvesbecomingtawny,toviewtheliberalitywithwhichpeopleofcolorweretreatedbythePortugueseInstances,socommonintheSouth,inwhichhalf-castechildrenareabandoned,arehereextremelyrare。
Theyareacknowledgedattable,andprovidedforbytheirfathersasifEuropeanThecoloredclerksofthemerchantssitatthesametablewiththeiremployerswithoutanyembarrassment。
Thecivilmannersofsuperiorstoinferiorsisprobablytheresultofthepositiontheyoccupyafewwhitesamongthousandsofblacks;
butnowhereelseinAfricaistheresomuchgood-willbetweenEuropeansandnativesashereIfsomebordercolonistshadtheabsolutecertaintyofourgovernmentdecliningtobearthemoutintheirarrogance,weshouldprobablyhearlessofCaffreinsolence。
Itisinsolencewhichbegetsinsolence。
FromthevillageofCassangewehaveagoodviewofthesurroundingcountry:
itisagentlyundulatingplain,coveredwithgrassandpatchesofforest。
ThewesternedgeoftheQuangovalleyappears,abouttwentymilesoff,asifitwerearangeofloftymountains,andpassesbythenameofTalaMungongo,“BeholdtheRange“IntheoldPortuguesemap,towhichIhadbeentrustinginplanningmyroute,itisindicatedasTallaMugongo,or“CastleofRocks!”andtheCoanzaisputdownasrisingtherefrom;buthereIwasassuredthattheCoanzahaditssourcenearBihe,fartothesouthwestofthis,andweshouldnotseethatrivertillwecamenearPungoAndongaItissomewhatremarkablethatmoreaccurateinformationaboutthiscountryhasnotbeenpublished。
CaptainNevesandothershadacorrectideaofthecoursesoftherivers,andcommunicatedtheirknowledgefreely;yetaboutthistimemapsweresenttoEuropefromAngolarepresentingtheQuangoandCoanzaasthesameriver,andCassangeplacedaboutonehundredmilesfromitstruepositionThefrequentrecurrenceofthesamenamehasprobablyhelpedtoincreasetheconfusionIhavecrossedseveralQuangos,butallinsignificant,exceptthatwhichdrainsthisvalley。
Therepetitionofthefavoritenamesofchiefs,asCatende,isalsoperplexing,asoneCatendemaybemistakenforanother。
Toavoidthisconfusionasmuchaspossible,IhaverefrainedfromintroducingmanynamesNumerousvillagesarestuddedalloverthevalley;
butthesepossessnopermanence,andmanymoreexistedprevioustothePortugueseexpeditionof1850topunishtheBangala。
Thisvalley,asIhavebeforeremarked,isallfertileintheextreme。
Mymencouldneverceaseadmiringitscapabilityforraisingtheircorn`Holcussorghum’,anddespisingthecomparativelylimitedcultivationoftheinhabitantsThePortugueseinformedmethatnomanureiseverneeded,butthat,themorethegroundistilled,thebetterityields。
Virginsoildoesnotgivesuchaheavycropasanoldgarden,and,judgingfromthesizeofthemaizeandmaniocinthelatter,IcanreadilybelievethestatementCattledowell,tooViewingthevalleyasawhole,itmaybesaidthatitsagriculturalandpastoralrichesarelyingwasteBoththePortugueseandtheirdescendantsturntheirattentionalmostexclusivelytotradeinwaxandivory,andthoughthecountrywouldyieldanyamountofcornanddairyproduce,thenativePortugueselivechieflyonmanioc,andtheEuropeanspurchasetheirflour,bread,butter,andcheesefromtheAmericans。
AsthetradersofCassangewerethefirstwhitemenwehadcometo,wesoldthetusksbelongingtoSekeletu,whichhadbeenbroughttotestthedifferenceofpricesintheMakololoandwhitemen’scountry。
Theresultwashighlysatisfactorytomycompanions,asthePortuguesegivemuchlargerpricesforivorythantradersfromtheCapecanpossiblygive,wholaborunderthedisadvantageofconsiderableoverlandexpensesandruinousrestrictionsTwomuskets,threesmallbarrelsofgunpowder,andEnglishcalicoandbaizesufficienttoclothemywholeparty,withlargebunchesofbeads,allforonetusk,werequitedelightfulforthosewhohadbeenaccustomedtogivetwotusksforonegun。
Withanothertuskweprocuredcalico,whichhereisthechiefcurrency,topayourwaydowntothecoastTheremainingtwoweresoldformoneytopurchaseahorseforSekeletuatLoanda。
ThesuperiorityofthisnewmarketwasquiteastoundingtotheMakololo,andtheybegantoabusethetradersbywhomtheyhad,whileintheirowncountry,beenvisited,and,astheynowdeclared,“cheated“。
Theyhadnoideaofthevalueoftimeandcarriage,anditwassomewhatdifficultformetoconvincethemthatthereasonofthedifferenceofpriceslayentirelyinwhattheythemselveshaddoneincominghere,andthat,ifthePortugueseshouldcarrygoodstotheircountry,theywouldbynomeansbesoliberalintheirpricesTheyimaginedthat,iftheCassangetraderscametoLinyanti,theywouldcontinuetovendtheirgoodsatCassangepricesIbelieveIgavethematlastaclearideaofthemannerinwhichpriceswereregulatedbytheexpensesincurred;andwhenwewenttoLoanda,andsawgoodsdeliveredatastillcheaperrate,theyconcludedthatitwouldbebetterforthemtocometothatcity,thantoturnhomewardatCassange。
ItwasinterestingformetoobservetheeffectsoftherestrictivepolicypursuedbytheCapegovernmenttowardtheBechuanasLikeallotherrestrictionsontrade,thelawofpreventingfriendlytribesfrompurchasingarmsandammunitiononlyinjuresthemenwhoenforceit。
TheCapegovernment,asalreadyobserved,inordertogratifyacompanyofindependentBoers,whosewell-knownpredilectionforthepracticeofslaverycausedthemtostipulatethatanumberofpeaceable,honesttribesshouldbekeptdefenseless,agreedtoallowfreetradeinarmsandammunitiontotheBoers,andpreventthesametradetotheBechuanasTheCapegovernmenttherebyunintentionallyaided,andcontinuestoaid,theBoerstoenslavethenativesButarmsandammunitionflowinonallsidesbynewchannels,andwhereformerlythepriceofalargetuskprocuredbutonemusket,onetuskofthesamesizenowbringsten。
Theprofitsarereapedbyothernations,andtheonlypersonsreallythelosers,inthelongrun,areourownCapemerchants,andafewdefenselesstribesofBechuanasonourimmediatefrontier。
MrRego,thecommandant,veryhandsomelyofferedmeasoldierasaguardtoAmbacaMymentoldmethattheyhadbeenthinkingitwouldbebettertoturnbackhere,astheyhadbeeninformedbythepeopleofcoloratCassangethatIwasleadingthemdowntothesea-coastonlytosellthem,andtheywouldbetakenonboardship,fattened,andeaten,asthewhitemenwerecannibalsIaskediftheyhadeverheardofanEnglishmanbuyingorsellingpeople;ifIhadnotrefusedtotakeaslavewhenshewasofferedtomebyShinte;but,asIhadalwaysbehavedasanEnglishteacher,iftheynowdoubtedmyintentions,theyhadbetternotgotothecoast;I,however,whoexpectedtomeetsomeofmycountrymenthere,wasdeterminedtogoonTheyrepliedthattheyonlythoughtitrighttotellmewhathadbeentoldtothem,buttheydidnotintendtoleaveme,andwouldfollowwhereverIshouldleadthewayThisaffairbeingdisposedofforthetime,thecommandantgavethemanox,andmeafriendlydinnerbeforeparting。
AllthemerchantsofCassangeaccompaniedus,intheirhammockscarriedbyslaves,totheedgeoftheplateauonwhichtheirvillagestands,andwepartedwiththefeelinginmymindthatIshouldneverforgettheirdisinterestedkindnessTheynotonlydideverythingtheycouldtomakemymenandmecomfortableduringourstay;but,therebeingnohotelsinLoanda,theyfurnishedmewithlettersofrecommendationtotheirfriendsinthatcity,requestingthemtoreceivemeintotheirhouses,forwithouttheseastrangermightfindhimselfalodgerinthestreets。
MayGodrememberthemintheirdayofneed!
ThelatitudeandlongitudeofCassange,themosteasterlystationofthePortugueseinWesternAfrica,islat9d37’30“S。,andlong17d49’E。;consequentlywehadstillabout300milestotraversebeforewecouldreachthecoastWehadablackmilitiacorporalasaguide。
HewasanativeofAmbaca,and,likenearlyalltheinhabitantsofthatdistrict,knownbythenameofAmbakistas,couldbothreadandwrite。
Hehadthreeslaveswithhim,andwascarriedbythemina“tipoia“,orhammockslungtoapoleHisslaveswereyoung,andunabletoconveyhimfaratatime,buthewasconsiderateenoughtowalkexceptwhenwecameneartoavillageHethenmountedhistipoiaandenteredthevillageinstate;hisdeparturewasmadeinthesamemanner,andhecontinuedinthehammocktillthevillagewasoutofsight。
Itwasinterestingtoobservethemannersofoursoldier-guide。
Twoslaveswerealwaysemployedincarryinghistipoia,andthethirdcarriedawoodenbox,aboutthreefeetlong,containinghiswritingmaterials,dishes,andclothing。
Hewascleanlyinallhisways,and,thoughquiteblackhimself,whenhescoldedanyoneofhisowncolor,abusedhimasa“negro“。
Whenhewantedtopurchaseanyarticlefromavillage,hewouldsitdown,mixalittlegunpowderasink,andwriteanoteinaneathandtoasktheprice,addressingittotheshopkeeperwiththeratherpompoustitle,“IllustrissimoSenhor“MostIllustriousSir。
ThisistheinvariablemodeofaddressthroughoutAngolaTheanswerreturnedwouldbeinthesamestyle,and,ifsatisfactory,anothernotefollowedtoconcludethebargainThereissomuchofthisnotecorrespondencecarriedoninAngola,thataverylargequantityofpaperisannuallyconsumedSomeotherpeculiaritiesofourguidewerenotsopleasingAlandofslavesisabadschoolforeventhefree;
andIwassorrytofindlesstruthfulnessandhonestyinhimthaninmyownpeopleWewereoftencheatedthroughhisconnivancewiththesellersoffood,andcouldperceivethathegotashareoftheplunderfromthemThefoodisverycheap,butitwasgenerallymadedearenough,untilIrefusedtoallowhimtocomeneartheplacewherewewerebargaining。
ButhetookussafelydowntoAmbaca,andIwasgladtosee,onmyreturntoCassange,thathewaspromotedtobesergeant-majorofacompanyofmilitia。
HavingleftCassangeonthe21st,wepassedacrosstheremainingportionofthisexcessivelyfertilevalleytothefootofTalaMungongo。
WecrossedafinelittlestreamcalledtheLuionthe22d,andanothernamedtheLuareonthe24th,thensleptatthebottomoftheheight,whichisfromathousandtofifteenhundredfeetThecloudscamefloatingalongthevalley,andbrokeagainstthesidesoftheascent,andthedrippingrainonthetallgrassmadetheslapsinthefaceitgave,whenthehandorastickwasnotheldupbeforeit,anythingbutagreeable。
Thisedgeofthevalleyisexactlyliketheother;juttingspursanddefilesgivetheredascentthesameserratedappearanceasthatwhichwedescendedfromthehighlandsofLondaThewholeofthisvastvalleyhasbeenremovedbydenudation,forpiecesoftheplateauwhichoncefilledthenowvacantspacestandinit,andpresentthesamestructureofredhorizontalstrataofequalaltitudeswiththoseoftheacclivitywhichwearenowabouttoascend。
Oneoftheseinsulatedmasses,namedKasala,boreE。S。Efromtheplacewherewemadeourexitfromthevalley,andabouttenmilesW。S。W。
fromthevillageofCassangeItisremarkableforitsperpendicularsides;
eventhenativesfinditextremelydifficult,almostimpossible,toreachitssummit,thoughthereisthetemptationofmarabou-nestsandfeathers,whicharehighlyprizedThereisasmalllakereportedtoexistonitssouthernend,and,duringtherainyseason,asortofnaturalmoatisformedaroundthebottomWhatanacquisitionthiswouldhavebeeninfeudaltimesinEngland!Thereislandsufficientforconsiderablecultivationonthetop,withalmostperpendicularsidesmorethanathousandfeetinheight。