WehadnotyetgotaclearideaofthenatureofTalaMungongo。
AgentlemanofCassangedescribeditasarangeofveryhighmountains,whichitwouldtakefourhourstoclimb;so,thoughtherainandgrasshadwettedusmiserably,andIwassufferingfromanattackoffevergotwhileobservingbynightforthepositionofCassange,IeagerlycommencedtheascentThepathwassteepandslippery;
deepgorgesappearoneachsideofit,leavingbutanarrowpathalongcertainspursofthesierraforthetraveler;butweaccomplishedtheascentinanhour,andwhenthere,foundwehadjustgotontoatable-landsimilartothatwehadleftbeforeweenteredthegreatQuangovalley。
WehadcomeamongloftytreesagainOneofthese,bearingafruitaboutthesizeofathirty-twopounder,isnamedMononga-zambi。
Wetookaglancebacktothisvalley,whichequalsthatoftheMississippiinfertility,andthoughtofthevastmassofmaterialwhichhadbeenscoopedoutandcarriedawayinitsformationThisnaturallyledtoreflectiononthecountlessagesrequiredforthepreviousformationanddepositionofthatsamematerialclayshale,thenoftherocks,whoseabrasionformedTHAT,untilthemindgrewgiddyinattemptingtoascendthestepswhichleadupthroughaportionoftheeternitybeforemanThedifferentepochsofgeologyarelikelandmarksinthatotherwiseshorelessseaOurownepoch,orcreation,isbutanotheraddedtothenumberofthatwonderfulserieswhichpresentsagranddisplayofthemightypowerofGod:
everystageofprogressintheearthanditshabitantsissuchadisplay。
SofarfromthissciencehavinganytendencytomakemenundervaluethepowerorloveofGod,itleadstotheprobabilitythattheexhibitionofmercywehaveinthegiftofhisSonmaypossiblynotbetheonlymanifestationofgracewhichhastakenplaceinthecountlessagesduringwhichworksofcreationhavebeengoingon。
Situatedafewmilesfromtheedgeofthedescent,wefoundthevillageofTalaMungongo,andwerekindlyaccommodatedwithahousetosleepin,whichwasverywelcome,aswewereallbothwetandcold。
WefoundthatthegreateraltitudeandtheapproachofwinterloweredthetemperaturesomuchthatmanyofmymensufferedseverelyfromcoldsAtthis,asatseveralotherPortuguesestations,theyhavebeenprovidentenoughtoerecttravelers’housesonthesameprincipleaskhansorcaravanseraisoftheEast。
Theyarebuiltoftheusualwattleanddaub,andhavebenchesofrodsforthewayfarertomakehisbedon;alsochairs,andatable,andalargejarofwaterThesebenches,thoughfarfromluxuriouscouches,werebetterthanthegroundundertherottenfragmentsofmygipsy-tent,forwehadstillshowersoccasionally,andthedewswereveryheavy。
Icontinuedtousethemforthesakeofthesheltertheyafforded,untilIfoundthattheywerelodgingsalsoforcertaininconvenientbedfellows。
27THFivehours’ridethroughapleasantcountryofforestandmeadow,likethoseofLonda,broughtustoavillageofBasongo,atribelivinginsubjectiontothePortugueseWecrossedseverallittlestreams,whichwereflowinginthewesterlydirectioninwhichweweremarching,andunitetoformtheQuize,afeederoftheCoanzaTheBasongowereverycivil,asindeedallthetribeswerewhohadbeenconqueredbythePortugueseTheBasongoandBangalaareyetonlypartiallysubdued。
Thefartherwestwegofromthis,thelessindependentwefindtheblackpopulation,untilwereachthevicinityofLoanda,wherethefreenativesarenearlyidenticalintheirfeelingstowardthegovernmentwiththeslavesButthegovernorsofAngolawiselyacceptthelimitedallegianceandtributerenderedbythemoredistanttribesasbetterthannone。
Alltheinhabitantsofthisregion,aswellasthoseofLonda,maybecalledtruenegroes,ifthelimitationsformerlymadebeborneinmind。
Thedarkcolor,thicklips,headselongatedbackwardandupwardandcoveredwithwool,flatnoses,withothernegropeculiarities,aregeneral;but,whilethesecharacteristicsplacetheminthetruenegrofamily,thereaderwouldimbibeawrongideaifhesupposedthatallthesefeaturescombinedareoftenmetwithinoneindividualAllhaveacertainthicknessandprominenceoflip,butmanyaremetwithineveryvillageinwhomthicknessandprojectionarenotmoremarkedthaninEuropeans。
Allaredark,butthecolorisshadedoffindifferentindividualsfromdeepblacktolightyellowAswegowestward,weobservethelightcolorpredominatingoverthedark,andthenagain,whenwecomewithintheinfluenceofdampfromtheseaair,wefindtheshadedeepenintothegeneralblacknessofthecoastpopulation。
Theshapeofthehead,withitswoollycrop,thoughgeneral,isnotuniversal。
Thetribesontheeasternsideofthecontinent,astheCaffres,haveheadsfinelydevelopedandstronglyEuropeanInstancesofthiskindarefrequentlyseen,andafterIbecamesofamiliarwiththedarkcolorastoforgetitinviewingthecountenance,Iwasstruckbythestrongresemblancesomenativesboretocertainofourownnotabilities。
TheBushmenandHottentotsareexceptionstotheseremarks,forboththeshapeoftheirheadsandgrowthofwoolarepeculiar;thelatter,forinstance,springsfromthescalpintuftswithbarespacesbetween,andwhenthecropisshort,resemblesanumberofblackpepper-cornsstuckontheskin,andveryunlikethethickfrizzlymasseswhichcovertheheadsoftheBalondaandMaraviWitheverydispositiontopayduedeferencetotheopinionsofthosewhohavemadeethnologytheirspecialstudy,IhavefeltmyselfunabletobelievethattheexaggeratedfeaturesusuallyputforthasthoseofthetypicalnegrocharacterizethemajorityofanynationofsouthCentralAfrica。
ThemonumentsoftheancientEgyptiansseemtometoembodytheidealoftheinhabitantsofLondabetterthanthefiguresofanyworkofethnologyIhavemetwith。
Passingthroughafine,fertile,andwell-peopledcountrytoSanza,wefoundtheQuizeRiveragaintouchingourpath,andherewehadthepleasureofseeingafieldofwheatgrowingluxuriantlywithoutirrigation。
Theearswereupwardoffourincheslong,anobjectofgreatcuriositytomycompanions,becausetheyhadtastedmybreadatLinyanti,buthadneverbeforeseenwheatgrowingThissmallfieldwascultivatedbyMrMiland,anagreeablePortuguesemerchantHisgardenwasinteresting,asshowingwhatthelandatthiselevationiscapableofyielding;
for,besideswheat,wesawEuropeanvegetablesinaflourishingcondition,andweafterwarddiscoveredthatthecoffee-planthaspropagateditselfoncertainspotsofthissamedistrictItmaybeseenontheheightsofTalaMungongo,ornearly300milesfromthewestcoast,whereitwasfirstintroducedbytheJesuitmissionaries。
WespentSunday,the30thofApril,atNgio,closetothefordoftheQuizeasitcrossesourpathtofallintotheCoanzaThecountrybecomesmoreopen,butisstillabundantlyfertile,withathickcropofgrassbetweentwoandthreefeethighItisalsowellwoodedandwatered。
VillagesofBasongoaredottedoverthelandscape,andfrequentlyasquarehouseofwattleanddaub,belongingtonativePortuguese,isplacedbesidethemforthepurposesoftradeThepeopleherepossessbothcattleandpigsThedifferentsleeping-placesonourpath,fromeighttotenmilesapart,aremarkedbyaclusterofshedsmadeofsticksandgrassThereisaconstantstreamofpeoplegoingandreturningtoandfromthecoastThegoodsarecarriedonthehead,orononeshoulder,inasortofbasketattachedtotheextremitiesoftwopolesbetweenfiveandsixfeetlong,andcalledMoteteWhenthebasketisplacedonthehead,thepolesprojectforwardhorizontally,andwhenthecarrierwishestoresthimself,heplantsthemonthegroundandtheburdenagainstatree,soheisnotobligedtoliftitupfromthegroundtothelevelofthehead。
Itstandsagainstthetreeproppedupbythepolesatthatlevel。
Thecarrierfrequentlyplantsthepolesontheground,andstandsholdingtheburdenuntilhehastakenbreath,thusavoidingthetroubleofplacingtheburdenonthegroundandliftingitupagain。
Whenacompanyofthesecarriers,orourownparty,arrivesatoneofthesesleeping-places,immediatepossessionistakenofthesheds。
Thosewhocomelate,andfindalloccupied,mustthenerectothersforthemselves;butthisisnotdifficult,forthereisnolackoflonggrass。
Nosoonerdoanystrangersappearatthespot,thanthewomenmaybeseenemergingfromtheirvillagesbearingbasketsofmanioc-meal,roots,ground-nuts,yams,bird’s-eyepepper,andgarlicforsale。
Calico,ofwhichwehadbroughtsomefromCassange,isthechiefmediumofexchangeWefoundthemallcivil,anditwasevident,fromtheamountoftalkingandlaughinginbargaining,thattheladiesenjoyedtheiroccupationTheymustcultivatelargely,inordertobeabletosupplytheconstantsuccessionofstrangers。
Those,however,neartothegreatlineofroad,purchasealsomuchofthefoodfromthemoredistantvillagesforthesakeofgain。
Pitsaneandanotherofthemenhadviolentattacksoffever,anditwasnowonder,forthedampnessandevaporationfromthegroundwasexcessiveWhenatanytimeIattemptedtogetanobservationofastar,ifthetroughofmercurywereplacedontheground,somuchmoisturewascondensedontheinsideoftheglassroofoveritthatitwaswithdifficultythereflectionofthestarcouldbeseen。
Whenthetroughwasplacedonaboxtopreventthemoistureenteringfrombelow,somuchdewwasdepositedontheoutsideoftheroofthatitwassoonnecessary,forthesakeofdistinctvision,towipetheglassThiswouldnothavebeenofgreatconsequence,butashortexposuretothisdewwassosuretobringonafreshfever,thatIwasobligedtogiveupobservationsbynightaltogether。
TheinsideoftheonlycoveringInowhadwasnotmuchbetter,butundertheblanketoneisnotsoliabletothechillwhichthedewproduces。
Itwouldhaveaffordedmepleasuretohavecultivatedamoreintimateacquaintancewiththeinhabitantsofthispartofthecountry,butthevertigoproducedbyfrequentfeversmadeitasmuchasIcoulddotostickontheoxandcrawlalonginmiseryIncrossingtheLombe,myoxSinbad,intheindulgenceofhispropensitytostrikeoutanewpathforhimself,plungedoverheadintoadeephole,andsosousedmethatIwasobligedtomoveontodrymyclothing,withoutcallingontheEuropeanswholiveonthebankThisIregretted,forallthePortuguesewereverykind,and,liketheBoersplacedinsimilarcircumstances,feelitaslighttobepassedwithoutawordofsalutationButwewentontoaspotwhereorange-treeshadbeenplantedbythenativesthemselves,andwhereabundanceofthatrefreshingfruitwasexposedforsale。
OnenteringthedistrictofAmbaca,wefoundthelandscapeenlivenedbytheappearanceofloftymountainsinthedistance,thegrasscomparativelyshort,andthewholecountryatthistimelookinggayandverdantOnourleftwesawcertainrocksofthesamenaturewiththoseofPungoAndongo,andwhichcloselyresembletheStonehengegrouponSalisburyPlain,onlythestonepillarshereareofgiganticsize。
Thisregionisallwonderfullyfertile,famedforraisingcattle,andallkindsofagriculturalproduce,atacheaprateThesoilcontainssufficientferruginousmatter,toimpartaredtingetonearlythewholeofitItissuppliedwithagreatnumberoflittleflowingstreamswhichuniteintheLucallaThisriverdrainsAmbaca,thenfallsintotheCoanzatothesouthwestatMassangano。