WecrossedtheLucallabymeansofalargecanoekepttherebyamanwhofarmstheferryfromthegovernment，andchargesaboutapennyperhead。
AfewmilesbeyondtheLucallawecametothevillageofAmbaca，animportantplaceinformertimes，butnowamerepaltryvillage，beautifullysituatedonalittleelevationinaplainsurroundedonallhandsbyloftymountainsIthasajail，andagoodhouseforthecommandant，butneitherfortnorchurch，thoughtheruinsofaplaceofworshiparestillstanding。
WeweremostkindlyreceivedbythecommandantofAmbaca，ArseniodeCarpo，whospokealittleEnglishHerecommendedwineformydebility，andhereItookthefirstglassofthatbeverageIhadtakeninAfrica。
Ifeltmuchrefreshed，andcouldthenrealizeandmeditateontheweakeningeffectsofthefeverTheywerecuriouseventomyself；
for，thoughIhadtriedseveraltimessinceweleftNgiototakelunarobservations，Icouldnotavoidconfusionoftimeanddistance，neithercouldIholdtheinstrumentsteady，norperformasimplecalculation；
hencemanyofthepositionsofthispartoftheroutewerelefttillmyreturnfromLoandaOften，ongettingupinthemornings，Ifoundmyclothingaswetfromperspirationasifithadbeendippedinwater。
InvainhadItriedtolearnorcollectwordsoftheBunda，ordialectspokeninAngolaIforgotthedaysoftheweekandthenamesofmycompanions，and，hadIbeenasked，Iprobablycouldnothavetoldmyown。
ThecomplaintitselfoccupiedmanyofmythoughtsOnedayIsupposedthatIhadgotthetruetheoryofit，andwouldcertainlycurethenextattack，whetherinmyselforcompanions；butsomenewsymptomswouldappear，andscatterallthefinespeculationswhichhadsprungup，withextraordinaryfertility，inonedepartmentofmybrain。
Thisdistrictissaidtocontainupwardof40，000souls。
SometenortwelvemilestothenorthofthevillageofAmbacathereoncestoodthemissionarystationofCahenda，anditisnowquiteastonishingtoobservethegreatnumberswhocanreadandwriteinthisdistrict。
ThisisthefruitofthelaborsoftheJesuitandCapuchinmissionaries，fortheytaughtthepeopleofAmbaca；andeversincetheexpulsionoftheteachersbytheMarquisofPombal，thenativeshavecontinuedtoteacheachotherThesedevotedmenarestillheldinhighestimationthroughoutthecountrytothisday。
AllspeakwellofthemospadresJesuitas；and，nowthattheyaregonefromthislowersphere，IcouldnothelpwishingthattheseourRomanCatholicfellow-ChristianshadfeltittobetheirdutytogivethepeopletheBible，tobealighttotheirfeetwhenthegoodmenthemselvesweregone。
Whensleepinginthehouseofthecommandant，aninsect，wellknowninthesoutherncountrybythenameTampan，bitmyfoot。
Itisakindoftick，andchoosesbypreferencethepartsbetweenthefingersortoesforinflictingitsbiteItisseenfromthesizeofapin’sheadtothatofapea，andiscommoninallthenativehutsinthiscountryItsuckstheblooduntilquitefull，andisthenofadarkbluecolor，anditsskinsotoughandyieldingthatitisimpossibletoburstitbyanyamountofsqueezingwiththefingers。
Ihadfelttheeffectsofitsbiteinformeryears，andeschewedallnativehutseverafter；butasIwashereagainassailedinaEuropeanhouse，Ishalldetailtheeffectsofthebite。
Theseareatinglingsensationofmingledpainanditching，whichcommencesascendingthelimbuntilthepoisonimbibedreachestheabdomen，whereitsooncausesviolentvomitingandpurging。
Wheretheseeffectsdonotfollow，aswefoundafterwardatTete，feversetsin；andIwasassuredbyintelligentPortuguesetherethatdeathhassometimesbeentheresultofthisfever。
TheanxietymyfriendsatTetemanifestedtokeepmymenoutofthereachofthetampansofthevillagemadeitevidentthattheyhadseencausetodreadthisinsignificantinsect。
TheonlyinconvenienceIafterwardsufferedfromthisbitewasthecontinuanceofthetinglingsensationinthepointbittenforaboutaweek。
MAY12THAswewereabouttostartthismorning，thecommandant，SenhorArsenio，providedbreadandmeatmostbountifullyformyuseonthewaytothenextstation，andsenttwomilitiasoldiersasguides，insteadofourCassangecorporal，wholeftushereAboutmiddayweaskedforshelterfromthesuninthehouseofSenhorMellot，atZangu，and，thoughIwasunabletositandengageinconversation，Ifound，onrisingfromhiscouch，thathehadatonceproceededtocookafowlformyuse；andatpartinghegavemeaglassofwine，whichpreventedtheviolentfitofshiveringIexpectedthatafternoon。
TheuniversalhospitalityofthePortuguesewasmostgratifying，asitwasquiteunexpected；andevennow，asIcopymyjournal，Irememberitallwithaglowofgratitude。
WespentSunday，the14thofMay，atCabinda，whichisoneofthestationsofthesub-commandants，whoareplacedatdifferentpointsineachdistrictofAngolaasassistantsofthehead-commandant，orchefe。
Itissituatedinabeautifulglen，andsurroundedbyplantationsofbananasandmaniocThecountrywasgraduallybecomingmorepicturesquethefartherweproceededwestTherangesofloftybluemountainsofLibollo，which，incomingtowardAmbaca，wehadseenthirtyorfortymilestooursouth，werenowshutfromourviewbyothersnearerathand，andthegrayrangesofCahendaandKiwe，which，whilewewereinAmbaca，stoodclearlydefinedeightortenmilesofftothenorth，werenowcloseuponourrightAswelookedbacktowardtheopenpastoralcountryofAmbaca，thebroadgreengentlyundulatingplainsseemedinahollowsurroundedonallsidesbyruggedmountains，andaswewentwestwardwewereenteringuponquiteawild-lookingmountainousdistrict，calledGolungoAlto。
WemetnumbersofMambariontheirwaybacktoBiheSomeofthemhadbelongedtothepartieswhichhadpenetratedasfarasLinyanti，andfoolishlyshowedtheirdispleasureattheprospectoftheMakololopreferringtogotothecoastmarketsthemselvestointrustingthemwiththeirivoryTheMambarirepeatedthetaleofthemodeinwhichthewhitemenaresaidtotrade“Theivoryisleftontheshoreintheevening，andnextmorningthesellerfindsaquantityofgoodsplacedthereinitssteadbythewhitemenwholiveinthesea。”
“Now。”addedtheytomymen，“howcanyouMakololotradewiththese`Mermen’？
Canyouenterintothesea，andtellthemtocomeashore？”
Itwasremarkabletohearthisidearepeatedsoneartheseaaswenowwere。
Mymenrepliedthattheyonlywantedtoseeforthemselves；
and，astheywerenowgettingsomelightonthenatureofthetradecarriedonbytheMambari，theywerehighlyamusedonperceivingthereasonswhytheMambariwouldratherhavemetthemontheZambesithansonearthesea-coast。
ThereissomethingsoexhilaratingtooneofHighlandbloodinbeingnearoronhighmountains，thatIforgotmyfeveraswewendedourwayamongtheloftytree-coveredmassesofmicaschistwhichformthehighlandsaroundtheromanticresidenceofthechefeofGolungoAltoLat9d8’30“S。，long15d2’E。Thewholedistrictisextremelybeautiful。
Thehillsareallbedeckedwithtreesofvarioushuesoffoliage，andamongthemtowersthegracefulpalm，whichyieldstheoilofcommerceformakingoursoaps，andtheintoxicatingtoddySomeclustersofhillslooklikethewavesoftheseadrivenintoanarrowopenbay，andhaveassumedthesameformasif，whenallwerechoppingupperpendicularly，theyhadsuddenlybeencongealedThecottagesofthenatives，perchedonthetopsofmanyofthehillocks，lookedasiftheownerspossessedaneyefortheromantic，buttheywereprobablyinfluencedmorebythedesiretooverlooktheirgardens，andkeeptheirfamiliesoutofthereachofthemalaria，whichissupposedtoprevailmostonthebanksofthenumerouslittlestreamswhichrunamongthehills。
Weweremostkindlyreceivedbythecommandant，LieutenantAntonioCantoeCastro，ayounggentlemanwhosewholesubsequentconductwillevermakemeregardhimwithgreataffectionLikeeveryotherpersonofintelligencewhomIhadmet，helamenteddeeplytheneglectwithwhichthisfinecountryhasbeentreated。
Thisdistrictcontainedbythelastcensus26，000hearthsorfires；
andiftoeachhearthwereckonfoursouls，wehaveapopulationof104，000。
Thenumberofcarregadorescarrierswhomaybeorderedoutatthepleasureofgovernmenttoconveymerchandisetothecoastisinthisdistrictaloneabout6000，yetthereisnogoodroadinexistence。
Thissystemofcompulsorycarriageofmerchandisewasadoptedinconsequenceoftheincreaseinnumbersandactivityofourcruisers，whichtookplacein1845Eachtraderwhowent，previoustothatyear，intotheinterior，inthepursuitofhiscalling，proceededontheplanofpurchasingivoryandbeeswax，andasufficientnumberofslavestocarrythesecommoditiesThewholewereintendedforexportationassoonasthetraderreachedthecoastButwhenthemorestringentmeasuresof1845
cameintooperation，andrenderedtheexportationofslavesalmostimpossible，therebeingnoroadsproperfortheemploymentofwheelconveyances，thisnewsystemofcompulsorycarriageofivoryandbeeswaxtothecoastwasresortedtobythegovernmentofLoandaAtraderwhorequirestwoorthreehundredcarrierstoconveyhismerchandisetothecoastnowappliestothegeneralgovernmentforaidAnorderissenttothecommandantofadistricttofurnishthenumberrequired。
Eachheadmanofthevillagestowhomtheorderistransmittedmustfurnishfromfivetotwentyorthirtymen，accordingtotheproportionthathispeoplebeartotheentirepopulationofthedistrict。
Forthisaccommodationthetradermustpayataxtothegovernmentof1000reis，oraboutthreeshillingsperloadcarried。
Thetraderisobligedtopaythecarrieralsothesumof50reis，orabouttwopenceaday，forhissustenanceAndasaday’sjourneyisnevermorethanfromeighttotenmiles，theexpensewhichmustbeincurredforthiscompulsorylaborisfelttobeheavybythosewhowereaccustomedtoemployslavelaboraloneYetnoefforthasbeenmadetoformagreatlineofroadforwheelcarriagesThefirstgreatwantofacountryhasnotbeenattendedto，andnodevelopmentofitsvastresourceshastakenplaceThefact，however，ofachangefromonesystemofcarriagetoanother，takeninconnectionwiththegreatdepreciationinthepriceofslavesnearthiscoast，provestheeffectivenessofoureffortsatrepressingtheslave-tradeontheocean。
ThelatitudeofGolungoAlto，asobservedattheresidenceofthecommandant，was9d8’30“S。，longitude15d2’EAfewdays’restwiththisexcellentyoungmanenabledmetoregainmuchofmystrength，andIcouldlookwithpleasureontheluxuriantscenerybeforehisdoor。
Wewerequiteshutinamonggreenhills，manyofwhichwerecultivateduptotheirtopswithmanioc，coffee，cotton，ground-nuts，bananas，pine-apples，guavas，papaws，custard-apples，pitangas，andjambos，fruitsbroughtfromSouthAmericabytheformermissionariesThehighhillsallaround，withtoweringpalmsonmanypoints，madethisspotappearmoreliketheBayofRiodeJaneiroinminiaturethananysceneIeversaw；
andallwhohaveseenthatconfessittobeunequaledintheworldbeside。
Thefertilityevidentineveryspotofthisdistrictwasquitemarveloustobehold，butIshallreservefurthernoticesofthisregiontillourreturnfromLoanda。
WeleftGolungoAltoonthe24thofMay，thewinterintheseparts。
Everyeveningcloudscomerollingingreatmassesoverthemountainsinthewest，andpealingthunderaccompaniesthefallofrainduringthenightorearlyinthemorningThecloudsgenerallyremainonthehillstillthemorningiswellspent，sothatwebecomefamiliarwithmorningmists，athingweneveroncesawatKolobengThethermometerstandsat80Degreesbyday，butsinksaslowas76Degreesbynight。
IngoingwestwardwecrossedseveralfinelittlegushingstreamswhichneverdryTheyuniteintheLuinhapronouncedLueenyaandLucalla。
Astheyflowovermanylittlecascades，theymighteasilybeturnedtogoodaccount，buttheyareallallowedtorunonidlytotheocean。
Wepassedthroughforestsofgigantictimber，andatanopenspacenamedCambondo，abouteightmilesfromGolungoAlto，foundnumbersofcarpentersconvertingtheseloftytreesintoplanks，inexactlythesamemanneraswasfollowedbytheillustriousRobinsonCrusoe。
Atreeofthreeorfourfeetindiameter，andfortyorfiftyfeetuptothenearestbranches，wasfelledItwasthencutintolengthsofafewfeet，andsplitintothickjunks，whichagainwerereducedtoplanksaninchthickbyperseveringlaborwiththeaxe。
Theobjectofthecarpenterswastomakelittlechests，andtheydriveaconstanttradeinthematCambondoWhenfinishedwithhinges，lock，andkey，alloftheirownmanufacture，onecostsonlyashillingandeightpenceMymenweresodelightedwiththemthattheycarriedseveralofthemontheirheadsallthewaytoLinyanti。
AtTrombetawewerepleasedtoobserveagreatdealoftastedisplayedbythesub-commandantinthelayingoutofhisgroundandadornmentofhishousewithflowersThistriflingincidentwasthemorepleasing，asitwasthefirstattemptatneatnessIhadseensinceleavingtheestablishmentofMozinkwainLondaRowsoftreeshadbeenplantedalongeachsideoftheroad，withpine-applesandflowersbetween。
ThisarrangementIhadanopportunityofseeinginseveralotherdistrictsofthiscountry，forthereisnodifficultyinraisinganyplantortreeifitisonlykeptfrombeingchokedbyweeds。