Thisgentlemanhadnowafineestate，whichbutafewyearsagowasaforest，andcosthimonly16PoundsHehadplantedabout900coffee-treesuponit，andasthesebegintoyieldinthreeyearsfrombeingplanted，andinsixattaintheirmaximum，Ihavenodoubtbutthaterenowhis16PoundsyieldshimsixtyfoldAllsortsoffruit-treesandgrape-vinesyieldtheirfruittwiceineachyear，withoutanylabororirrigationbeingbestowedonthemAllgrainsandvegetables，ifonlysown，dothesame；
　　andifadvantageistakenofthemistsofwinter，eventhreecropsofpulsemayberaisedCottonwasnowstandinginthepodsinhisfields，andhedidnotseemtocareaboutitIunderstoodhimtosaythatthislastplantflourishes，butthewetofoneofthetworainyseasonswithwhichthiscountryisfavoredsometimesprovestroublesometothegrower。
　　Iamnotawarewhetherwheathaseverbeentried，butIsawbothfigsandgrapesbearingwellThegreatcomplaintofallcultivatorsisthewantofagoodroadtocarrytheirproducetomarket。
　　Hereallkindsoffoodareremarkablycheap。
　　Fartheronweleftthemountainouscountry，and，aswedescendedtowardthewestcoast，sawthelandsassumingamoresterile，uninvitingaspect。
　　OnourrightrantheRiverSenza，whichnearertheseatakesthenameofBengoItisaboutfiftyyardsbroad，andnavigableforcanoes。
　　Thelowplainsadjacenttoitsbanksareprotectedfrominundationbyembankments，andthepopulationisentirelyoccupiedinraisingfoodandfruitsforexportationtoLoandabymeansofcanoes。
　　ThebanksareinfestedbymyriadsofthemostferociousmosquitoesIevermet。
　　NotoneofourpartycouldgetasnatchofsleepIwastakenintothehouseofaPortuguese，butwassoongladtomakemyescapeandlieacrossthepathontheleesideofthefire，wherethesmokeblewovermybodyMyhostwonderedatmywantoftaste，andIathiswantoffeeling；for，toourastonishment，heandtheotherinhabitantshadactuallybecomeusedtowhatwasatleastequaltoanailthroughtheheelofone’sboot，orthetooth-ache。
　　Aswewerenowdrawingneartothesea，mycompanionswerelookingateverythinginaseriouslightOneofthemaskedmeifweshouldallhaveanopportunityofwatchingeachotheratLoanda。
　　“Supposeonewentforwater，wouldtheothersseeifhewerekidnapped？”
　　Ireplied，“Iseewhatyouaredrivingat；andifyoususpectme，youmayreturn，forIamasignorantofLoandaasyouare；
　　butnothingwillhappentoyoubutwhathappenstomyself。
　　Wehavestoodbyeachotherhitherto，andwilldosotothelast。”
　　TheplainsadjacenttoLoandaaresomewhatelevatedandcomparativelysterile。
　　Oncomingacrossthesewefirstbeheldthesea：mycompanionslookedupontheboundlessoceanwithaweOndescribingtheirfeelingsafterward，theyremarkedthat“wemarchedalongwithourfather，believingthatwhattheancientshadalwaystolduswastrue，thattheworldhasnoend；butallatoncetheworldsaidtous，`Iamfinished；thereisnomoreofme！’“Theyhadalwaysimaginedthattheworldwasoneextendedplainwithoutlimit。
　　Theywerenowsomewhatapprehensiveofsufferingwant，andIwasunabletoallaytheirfearswithanypromiseofsupply，formyownmindwasdepressedbydiseaseandcareThefeverhadinducedastateofchronicdysentery，sotroublesomethatIcouldnotremainontheoxmorethantenminutesatatime；andaswecamedownthedeclivityabovethecityofLoandaonthe31stofMay，Iwaslaboringundergreatdepressionofspirits，asIunderstoodthat，inapopulationoftwelvethousandsouls，therewasbutonegenuineEnglishgentlemanInaturallyfeltanxioustoknowwhetherhewerepossessedofgood-nature，orwasoneofthosecrustymortalsonewouldrathernotmeetatall。
　　Thisgentleman，MrGabriel，ourcommissionerforthesuppressionoftheslave-trade，hadkindlyforwardedaninvitationtomeetmeonthewayfromCassange，but，unfortunately，itcrossedmeontheroad。
　　Whenweenteredhisporch，Iwasdelightedtoseeanumberofflowerscultivatedcarefully，andinferredfromthiscircumstancethathewas，whatIsoondiscoveredhimtobe，arealwhole-heartedEnglishman。
　　Seeingmeill，hebenevolentlyofferedmehisbedNevershallIforgettheluxuriouspleasureIenjoyedinfeelingmyselfagainonagoodEnglishcouch，aftersixmonths’sleepingontheground。
　　Iwassoonasleep；andMrGabriel，cominginalmostimmediately，rejoicedatthesoundnessofmyrepose。
　　Chapter20。
　　ContinuedSicknessKindnessoftheBishopofAngolaandherMajesty’sOfficersMrGabriel’sunweariedHospitality
　　SeriousDeportmentoftheMakololoTheyvisitShipsofWar
　　PolitenessoftheOfficersandMenTheMakololoattendMassintheCathedralTheirRemarksFindEmploymentincollectingFirewoodandunloadingCoalTheirsuperiorJudgmentrespectingGoodsBeneficialInfluenceoftheBishopofAngola
　　TheCityofStPauldeLoandaTheHarborCustom-house
　　NoEnglishMerchantsSincerityofthePortugueseGovernmentinsuppressingtheSlave-tradeConvictSoldiers
　　PresentsfromBishopandMerchantsforSekeletuOutfitLeaveLoanda20thSeptember，1854AccompaniedbyMrGabrielasfarasIcolloiBengoSugarManufactoryGeologyofthispartoftheCountry
　　WomenspinningCottonItsPriceNativeWeaversMarket-places
　　Cazengo；itsCoffeePlantationsSouthAmericanTrees
　　RuinsofIronFoundryNativeMinersTheBanksoftheLucalla
　　CottageswithStagesTobacco-plantsTownofMassangano
　　SugarandRiceSuperiorDistrictforCottonPortugueseMerchantsandforeignEnterpriseRuinsTheFortanditsancientGuns
　　FormerImportanceofMassanganoFiresTheTribeKisama
　　PeculiarVarietyofDomesticFowlCoffeePlantations
　　ReturntoGolungoAltoSelf-complacencyoftheMakololo
　　FeverJaundiceInsanity。
　　InthehopethatashortenjoymentofMrGabriel’sgeneroushospitalitywouldrestoremetomywontedvigor，Icontinuedunderhisroof；
　　butmycomplainthavingbeencausedbylongexposuretomalariousinfluences，Ibecamemuchmorereducedthanever，evenwhileenjoyingrest。
　　SeveralPortuguesegentlemencalledonmeshortlyaftermyarrival；
　　andtheBishopofAngola，theRightReverendJoaquimMoreiraReis，thentheactinggovernoroftheprovince，senthissecretarytodothesame，andlikewisetooffertheservicesofthegovernmentphysician。
　　Someofhermajesty’scruiserssooncameintotheport，and，seeingtheemaciatedconditiontowhichIwasreduced，offeredtoconveymetoStHelenaorhomeward；but，thoughIhadreachedthecoast，Ihadfoundthat，inconsequenceofthegreatamountofforest，rivers，andmarsh，therewasnopossibilityofahighwayforwagons，andIhadbroughtapartyofSekeletu’speoplewithme，andfoundthetribesnearthePortuguesesettlementsoveryunfriendly，thatitwouldbealtogetherimpossibleformymentoreturnalone。
　　Ithereforeresolvedtodeclinethetemptingoffersofmynavalfriends，andtakebackmyMakololocompanionstotheirchief，withaviewoftryingtomakeapathfromhiscountrytotheeastcoastbymeansofthegreatriverZambesiorLeeambye。
　　I，however，gladlyavailedmyselfofthemedicalassistanceofMrCockin，thesurgeonofthe“Polyphemus“，atthesuggestionofhiscommander，CaptainPhillipsMrCockin’streatment，aidedbytheexhilaratingpresenceofthewarm-heartednavalofficers，andMrGabriel’sunweariedhospitalityandcare，soonbroughtmeroundagainOnthe14thIwassofarwellastocallonthebishop，incompanywithmyparty，whowerearrayedinnewrobesofstripedcottonclothandredcaps，allpresentedtothembyMrGabrielHereceivedus，asheadoftheprovisionalgovernment，inthegrandhallofthepalace。
　　HeputmanyintelligentquestionsrespectingtheMakololo，andthengavethemfreepermissiontocometoLoandaasoftenastheypleased。
　　ThisinterviewpleasedtheMakololoextremely。
　　EveryoneremarkedtheseriousdeportmentoftheMakololoTheyviewedthelargestonehousesandchurchesinthevicinityofthegreatoceanwithawe。
　　Ahousewithtwostorieswas，untilnow，beyondtheircomprehension。
　　Inexplanationofthisstrangething，Ihadalwaysbeenobligedtousethewordforhut；andashutsareconstructedbythepolesbeingletintotheearth，theynevercouldcomprehendhowthepolesofonehutcouldbefoundedupontheroofofanother，orhowmencouldliveintheupperstory，withtheconicalroofoftheloweroneinthemiddle。
　　SomeMakololo，whohadvisitedmylittlehouseatKolobeng，intryingtodescribeittotheircountrymenatLinyanti，said，“Itisnotahut；itisamountainwithseveralcavesinit。”
　　CommanderBedingfeldandCaptainSkeneinvitedthemtovisittheirvessels，the“Pluto“and“Philomel“Knowingtheirfears，Itoldthemthatnooneneedgoifheentertainedtheleastsuspicionoffoulplay。
　　Nearlythewholepartywent；andwhenondeck，Ipointedtothesailors，andsaid，“Nowtheseareallmycountrymen，sentbyourqueenforthepurposeofputtingdownthetradeofthosethatbuyandsellblackmen。”
　　Theyreplied，“Truly！theyarejustlikeyou！”andalltheirfearsseemedtovanishatonce，fortheywentforwardamongthemen，andthejollytars，actingmuchastheMakololowouldhavedoneinsimilarcircumstances，handedthemashareofthebreadandbeefwhichtheyhadfordinnerThecommanderallowedthemtofireoffacannon；
　　and，havingthemostexaltedideasofitspower，theyweregreatlypleasedwhenItoldthem，“Thatiswhattheyputdowntheslave-tradewith。”
　　Thesizeofthebrig-of-waramazedthem“Itisnotacanoeatall；
　　itisatown！”Thesailors’decktheynamed“theKotla“；
　　andthen，asaclimaxtotheirdescriptionofthisgreatark，added，“Andwhatsortofatownisitthatyoumustclimbupintowitharope？”
　　TheeffectofthepolitenessoftheofficersandmenontheirmindswasmostbeneficialTheyhadbehavedwiththegreatestkindnesstomeallthewayfromLinyanti，andInowroserapidlyintheirestimation；
　　for，whatevertheymayhavesurmisedbefore，theynowsawthatIwasrespectedamongmyowncountrymen，andalwaysafterwardtreatedmewiththegreatestdeference。
　　Onthe15ththerewasaprocessionandserviceofthemassintheCathedral；
　　and，wishingtoshowmymenaplaceofworship，Itookthemtothechurch，whichnowservesasthechiefoneoftheseeofAngolaandCongo。
　　ThereisanimpressiononsomemindsthatagorgeousritualisbettercalculatedtoinspiredevotionalfeelingsthanthesimpleformsoftheProtestantworshipButherethefrequentgenuflexions，changingofpositions，burningofincense，withthepriests’backturnedtothepeople，thelaughing，talking，andmanifestirreverenceofthesingers，withfiringofguns，etc。，didnotconveytothemindsofmymentheideaofadorationIoverheardthem，intalkingtoeachother，remarkthat“theyhadseenthewhitemencharmingtheirdemons；“
　　aphraseidenticalwithonetheyhadusedwhenseeingtheBalondabeatingdrumsbeforetheiridols。
　　InthebeginningofAugustIsufferedasevererelapse，whichreducedmetoamereskeletonIwasthenunabletoattendtomymenforaconsiderabletime；butwheninconvalescencefromthislastattack，IwasthankfultofindthatIwasfreefromthatlassitudewhich，inmyfirstrecovery，showedthecontinuanceofthemalariainthesystem。
　　Ifoundthatmymen，withoutprompting，hadestablishedabrisktradeinfire-woodTheysalliedforthatcock-crowinginthemornings，andbydaylightreachedtheuncultivatedpartsoftheadjacentcountry，collectedabundleoffire-wood，andreturnedtothecity。
　　Itwasthendividedintosmallerfagots，andsoldtotheinhabitants；
　　andastheygavelargerquantitiesthantheregularwood-carriers，theyfoundnodifficultyinsellingAshipfreightedwithcoalforthecruisershavingarrivedfromEngland，MrGabrielprocuredthememploymentinunloadingheratsixpenceadayTheycontinuedatthisworkforupwardofamonth，andnothingcouldexceedtheirastonishmentatthevastamountofcargooneshipcontainedAstheythemselvesalwaysafterwardexpressedit，theyhadlaboredeverydayfromsunrisetosunsetforamoonandahalf，unloading，asquicklyastheycould，“stonesthatburn“，andweretiredout，stillleavingplentyinherWiththemoneysoobtainedtheypurchasedclothing，beads，andotherarticlestotakebacktotheirowncountry。
　　TheirideasofthevalueofdifferentkindsofgoodsratherastonishedthosewhohaddealtonlywithnativesonthecoastHearingitstatedwithconfidencethattheAfricanspreferredthethinnestfabrics，providedtheyhadgaudycolorsandalargeextentofsurface，theideawassonewtomyexperienceintheinteriorthatIdissented，and，inordertoshowthesuperiorgoodsenseoftheMakololo，tookthemtotheshopofMrSchutWhenheshowedthemtheamountofgeneralgoodswhichtheymightprocureatLoandaforasingletusk，Irequestedthem，withoutassigninganyreason，topointoutthefabricstheyprizedmostTheyallatonceselectedthestrongestpiecesofEnglishcalicoandothercloths，showingthattheyhadregardtostrengthwithoutreferencetocolor。