IbelievethatmostoftheBechuananationwouldhavedonethesame。
  ButIwasassuredthatthepeoplenearthecoast,withwhomthePortuguesehavetodeal,havenotsomuchregardtodurabilityThisprobablyarisesfromcalicobeingthechiefcirculatingmedium;quantitybeingthenofmoreimportancethanquality。
  Duringtheperiodofmyindisposition,thebishopsentfrequentlytomakeinquiries,and,assoonasIwasabletowalk,IwenttothankhimforhiscivilitiesHiswholeconversationandconductshowedhimtobeamanofgreatbenevolenceandkindnessofheartAlludingtomybeingaProtestant,hestatedthathewasaCatholicfromconviction;
  andthoughsorrytoseeothers,likemyself,followinganotherpath,heentertainednouncharitablefeelings,norwouldheeversanctionpersecutingmeasuresHecomparedthevarioussectsofChristians,intheirwaytoheaven,toanumberofindividualschoosingtopassdownthedifferentstreetsofLoandatooneofthechurches
  allwouldarriveatthesamepointatlastHisgoodinfluence,bothinthecityandthecountry,isuniversallyacknowledged:
  hewaspromotingtheestablishmentofschools,which,thoughformedmoreonthemonasticprinciplethanProtestantsmightapprove,willnodoubtbeablessingHewaslikewisesuccessfullyattemptingtoabolishthenon-marriagecustomofthecountry;andseveralmarriageshadtakenplaceinLoandaamongthosewho,butforhisteaching,wouldhavebeencontentwithconcubinage。
  StPauldeLoandahasbeenaveryconsiderablecity,butisnowinastateofdecayItcontainsabouttwelvethousandinhabitants,mostofwhomarepeopleofcolor。*Therearevariousevidencesofitsformermagnificence,especiallytwocathedrals,oneofwhich,onceaJesuitcollege,isnowconvertedintoaworkshop;
  andinpassingtheother,wesawwithsorrowanumberofoxenfeedingwithinitsstatelywallsThreefortscontinueinagoodstateofrepairManylargestonehousesaretobefound。
  Thepalaceofthegovernorandgovernmentofficesarecommodiousstructures,butnearlyallthehousesofthenativeinhabitantsareofwattleanddaub。
  Treesareplantedalloverthetownforthesakeofshade,andthecitypresentsanimposingappearancefromthesea。
  Itisprovidedwithaneffectivepolice,andthecustom-housedepartmentisextremelywellmanagedAllpartiesagreeinrepresentingthePortugueseauthoritiesasbothpoliteandobliging;
  andifeveranyinconvenienceisfeltbystrangersvisitingtheport,itmustbeconsideredthefaultofthesystem,andnotofthemen。
  *Fromthecensusof1850-51wefindthepopulationofthiscityarrangedthus:830whites,only160ofwhomarefemales。
  Thisisthelargestcollectionofwhitesinthecountry,forAngolaitselfcontainsonlyabout1000whites。
  Thereare2400half-castesinLoanda,andonly120ofthemslaves;
  andthereare9000blacks,morethan5000ofwhomareslaves。
  Theharborisformedbythelow,sandyislandofLoanda,whichisinhabitedbyabout1300souls,upwardof600ofwhomareindustriousnativefishermen,whosupplythecitywithabundanceofgoodfishdailyThespacebetweenitandthemainland,onwhichthecityisbuilt,isthestationforships。
  Whenahighsouthwestwindblows,thewavesoftheoceandashoverpartoftheisland,and,drivinglargequantitiesofsandbeforethem,graduallyfilluptheharborGreatquantitiesofsoilarealsowashedintherainyseasonfromtheheightsabovethecity,sothattheport,whichoncecontainedwatersufficienttofloatthelargestshipsclosetothecustom-house,isnowatlowwaterdry。
  Theshipsarecompelledtoanchoraboutamilenorthoftheiroldstation。
  NearlyallthewaterconsumedinLoandaisbroughtfromtheRiverBengobymeansoflaunches,theonlysupplythatthecityaffordsbeingfromsomedeepwellsofslightlybrackishwater。
  Unsuccessfulattemptshavebeenmadebydifferentgovernorstofinishacanal,whichtheDutch,whileinpossessionofLoandaduringthesevenyearspreceding1648,hadbegun,tobringwaterfromtheRiverCoanzatothecity。
  ThereisnotasingleEnglishmerchantatLoanda,andonlytwoAmerican。
  Thisisthemoreremarkable,asnearlyallthecommerceiscarriedonbymeansofEnglishcalicobroughthitherviaLisbon。
  SeveralEnglishhousesattemptedtoestablishatradeabout1845,andacceptedbillsonRiodeJaneiroinpaymentfortheirgoods,buttheincreasedactivityofourcruisershadsuchaneffectuponthemercantilehousesofthatcitythatmostofthemfailed。
  TheEnglishmerchantslostall,andLoandagotabadnameinthecommercialworldinconsequence。
  Oneofthearrangementsofthecustom-housemayhavehadsomeinfluenceinpreventingEnglishtradeShipscomingheremustbeconsignedtosomeoneonthespot;theconsigneereceivesonehundreddollarspermast,andhegenerallymakesagreatdealmoreforhimselfbyputtingapercentageonboatsandmenhiredforloadingandunloading,andoneveryitemthatpassesthroughhishandsTheportchargesarealsorenderedheavybytwentydollarsbeingchargedasaperquisiteofthesecretaryofgovernment,withafeeforthechiefphysician,somethingforthehospital,custom-houseofficers,guards,etc。,etcBut,withallthesedrawbacks,theAmericanscarryonabriskandprofitabletradeincalico,biscuit,flour,butter,etc。,etc。
  ThePortuguesehomegovernmenthasnotgenerallyreceivedthecreditforsincerityinsuppressingtheslave-tradewhichIconceivetobeitsdue。
  In1839,myfriendMrGabrielsaw37slave-shipslyinginthisharbor,waitingfortheircargoes,undertheprotectionofthegunsoftheforts。
  Atthattimeslavershadtowaitmanymonthsatatimeforahumanfreight,andacertainsumperheadwaspaidtothegovernmentforallthatwereexportedThedutiesderivedfromtheexportationofslavesfarexceededthosefromothercommerce,and,byagreeingtothesuppressionofthisprofitabletraffic,thegovernmentactuallysacrificedthechiefpartoftheexportrevenueSincethatperiod,however,therevenuefromlawfulcommercehasverymuchexceededthatonslaves。
  TheintentionsofthehomePortuguesegovernment,howevergood,cannotbefullycarriedoutunderthepresentsystemThepayoftheofficersissoverysmallthattheyarenearlyallobligedtoengageintrade;
  and,owingtothelucrativenatureoftheslave-trade,thetemptationtoengageinitissopowerful,thatthephilanthropicstatesmenofLisbonneedhardlyexpecttohavetheirhumaneandenlightenedviewscarriedout。
  Thelaw,forinstance,latelypromulgatedfortheabolitionofthecarriersystemcarregadoresisbutoneofseveralequallyhumaneenactmentsagainstthismodeofcompulsorylabor,butthereisverylittleprobabilityofthebenevolentintentionsoftheLegislaturebeingcarriedintoeffect。
  Loandaisregardedsomewhatasapenalsettlement,andthosewholeavetheirnativelandforthiscountrydosowiththehopeofgettingrichinafewyears,andthenreturninghomeTheyhavethusnomotiveforseekingthepermanentwelfareofthecountry。
  ThePortugueselawpreventingthesubjectsofanyothernationfromholdinglandedpropertyunlesstheybecomenaturalized,thecountryhasneithertheadvantageofnativenorforeignenterprise,andremainsverymuchinthesamestateasouralliesfounditin1575。
  NearlyalltheEuropeansoldierssentoutareconvicts,and,contrarytowhatmightbeexpectedfrommenintheirposition,behaveremarkablywellAfewriotshaveoccurred,butnothingatallsoseriousashavetakenplaceinourownpenalsettlements。
  ItisaremarkablefactthatthewholeofthearmsofLoandaareeverynightinthehandsofthosewhohavebeenconvicts。
  Variousreasonsforthismildbehaviorareassignedbytheofficers,butnoneofthese,whenviewedinconnectionwithourownexperienceinAustralia,appeartobevalidReligionseemstohavenoconnectionwiththechangePerhapstheclimatemayhavesomeinfluenceinsubduingtheirturbulentdisposition,fortheinhabitantsgenerallyareatimidrace;
  theyarenothalfsobraveasourCaffresThepeopleofAmbrizranawaylikeaflockofsheep,andallowedthePortuguesetotakepossessionoftheircopperminesandcountrywithoutstrikingablow。
  Ifwemusthaveconvictsettlements,attentiontotheclimatemightbeofadvantageintheselectionHereevenbullsaremuchtamerthanwithusInevermetwithaferociousoneinthiscountry,andthePortugueseusethemgenerallyforriding;anoxisseldomseen。
  TheobjectswhichIhadinviewinopeningupthecountry,asstatedinafewnotesofmyjourney,publishedinthenewspapersofAngola,socommendedthemselvestothegeneralgovernmentandmerchantsofLoanda,that,attheinstanceofhisexcellencythebishop,ahandsomepresentforSekeletuwasgrantedbytheBoardofPublicWorksJuntadaFazendaPublicaItconsistedofacolonel’scompleteuniformandahorseforthechief,andsuitsofclothingforallthemenwhoaccompaniedmeThemerchantsalsomadeapresent,bypublicsubscription,ofhandsomespecimensofalltheirarticlesoftrade,andtwodonkeys,forthepurposeofintroducingthebreedintohiscountry,astsetsecannotkillthisbeastofburdenThesepresentswereaccompaniedbylettersfromthebishopandmerchants;andIwaskindlyfavoredwithlettersofrecommendationtothePortugueseauthoritiesinEasternAfrica。
  Itookwithmeagoodstockofcottoncloth,freshsuppliesofammunitionandbeads,andgaveeachofmymenamusket。
  Asmycompanionshadamassedconsiderablequantitiesofgoods,theywereunabletocarrymine,butthebishopfurnishedmewithtwentycarriers,andsentforwardorderstoallthecommandantsofthedistrictsthroughwhichweweretopasstorendermeeveryassistanceintheirpowerBeingnowsuppliedwithagoodnewtentmadebymyfriendsonboardthePhilomel,weleftLoandaonthe20thofSeptember,1854,andpassedroundbyseatothemouthoftheRiverBengo。
  Ascendingthisriver,wewentthroughthedistrictinwhichstandtheruinsoftheconventofStAntonio;thenceintoIcolloiBengo,whichcontainsapopulationof6530blacks,172mulattoes,and11whites,andissonamedfromhavingbeentheresidenceofaformernativeking。
  Theproportionofslavesisonly3。38percentoftheinhabitants。
  Thecommandantofthisplace,LaurenceJoseMarquis,isafrankoldsoldierandamosthospitableman;heisoneofthefewwhosecuretheuniversalapprobationoftheirfellow-menforstern,unflinchinghonesty,andhasrisenfromtherankstobeamajorinthearmy。
  Wewereaccompaniedthusfarbyourgeneroushost,EdmundGabriel,Esq。,who,byhisunweariedattentionstomyself,andliberalityinsupportingmymen,hadbecomeendearedtoallourheartsMymenwerestronglyimpressedwithasenseofhisgoodness,andoftenspokeofhimintermsofadmirationallthewaytoLinyanti。
  Whileherewevisitedalargesugarmanufactorybelongingtoalady,DonnaAnnadaSousaTheflatalluviallandsonthebanksoftheSenzaorBengoarewelladaptedforraisingsugar-cane,andthisladyhadasurprisingnumberofslaves,butsomehowtheestablishmentwasfarfrombeinginaflourishingconditionItpresentedsuchacontrasttothefree-laborestablishmentsoftheMauritius,whichIhavesinceseen,where,withnotonetenthofthenumberofhands,orsuchgoodsoil,amanofcolorhad,inoneyear,cleared5000Poundsbyasinglecrop,thatIquotethefact,inhopesitmaymeettheeyeofDonnaAnna。
  Thewateroftheriverismuddy,anditisobservedthatsuchrivershavemanymoremosquitoesthanthosewhichhaveclearwater。
  Itwasremarkedtousherethattheseinsectsaremuchmorenumerousattheperiodofnewmoonthanatothertimes;atanyrate,wewereallthankfultogetawayfromtheSenzaanditsinsectplagues。
  Thewholeofthispartofthecountryiscomposedofmarlytufa,containingthesamekindofshellsasthoseatpresentaliveintheseas。
  Asweadvancedeastwardandascendedthehigherlands,wefounderuptivetrap,whichhadtiltedupimmensemassesofmicaandsandstoneschists。
  Themicaschistalmostalwaysdippedtowardtheinteriorofthecountry,formingthosemountainrangesofwhichwehavealreadyspokenasgivingahighlandcharactertothedistrictofGolungoAlto。
  Thetraphasfrequentlyrunthroughthegorgesmadeintheupheavedrocks,andatthepointsofjunctionbetweentheigneousandolderrockstherearelargequantitiesofstronglymagneticironore。