INTRODUCTION
QueenElizabethherself,andLondonasitwasinhertime,withsketchesofElizabethanEngland,andofitsgreatmeninthewayofsocialdignity,areherebroughthometousbyPaulHentznerandSirRobertNaunton。
PaulHentznerwasaGermanlawyer,bornatCrossen,inBrandenburg,onthe29thofJanuary,1558。Hediedonthe1stJanuary,1623。In1596,whenhisagewasthirty-eight,hebecametutortoayoungSilesiannobleman,withwhomhesetoutin1597onathreeyears’
tourthroughSwitzerland,France,England,andItaly。AfterhisreturntoGermanyin1600,hepublished,atNuremberg,in1612,adescriptionofwhathehadseenandthoughtworthrecord,writteninLatin,as"ItinerariumGermaniae,Galliae,Angliae,Italiae,cumIndiceLocorum,RerumatqueVerborum。"
HoraceWalpolecausedthatpartofHentzner’sItinerarywhichtellswhathesawinEnglandtobetranslatedbyRichardBentley,sonofthefamousscholar,andheprintedatStrawberryHilltwohundredandtwentycopies。In1797"Hentzner’sTravelsinEngland"wereedited,togetherwithSirRobertNaunton’s"FragmentaRegalia,"inthevolumefromwhichtheyareherereprinted,withnotesbythetranslatorandtheeditor。
SirRobertNauntonwasofanoldfamilywithlargeestates,settledatAlderton,inSuffolk。HewasatCambridgeinthelatteryearsofElizabeth’sreign,havingenteredasFellowCommoneratTrinityCollege,andobtainedaFellowshipatTrinityHall。NauntonwenttoScotlandin1589withanuncle,WilliamAshby,whomQueenElizabethsentthitherasAmbassador,andwasdespatchedtoElizabeth’scourtfromScotlandasatrustymessenger。In1596-7hewasinFrance,andcorrespondedwiththeEarlofEssex,whowashisfriend。AfterthefallofEssexhereturnedtoCambridge,andwasmadeProctoroftheUniversityin1601,threeyearsafterPaulHentzner’svisittoEngland。ThenhebecamePublicOratoratCambridge,andbyaspeechmadetoKingJamesatHinchinbrookwonhisMajesty’spraiseforLatinandlearning。HecametocourtintheserviceofSirJamesOverbury,obtainedtheactivefriendshipofGeorgeVilliersDukeofBuckingham,andwasswornasSecretaryofStateonthe8thJanuary,1617。ThekingafterwardsgaveNauntontheofficeofMasteroftheCourtofWardsandLiveries。
SirRobertNauntonwrotehisrecollectionsofthemenwhoservedQueenElizabethwhenhewasnearthecloseofhisownlife。Itwasafter1628,becausehespeaksofEdwardSomerset,EarlofWorcester,asdead,andbefore1632,becausehespeaksofSirWilliamKnollyslivingastheonlyEarlofBanbury。HewascreatedEarlofBanburyin1626,anddiedin1632。The"FragmentaRegalia"werefirstpublishedin1641,afterSirRobert’sdeath。Theywerereprintedin1642and1653,sincewhichdatetheyhaveappearedinvariouscollections。Therewasagoodeditionofthemin1870amongtheveryvaluable"EnglishReprints"forwhichweareindebtedtoProfessorEdwardArber。
H。M。
TRAVELSINENGLAND
WearrivedatRye,asmallEnglishseaport。Here,assoonaswecameonshore,wegaveinournamestothenotaryoftheplace,butnottillhehaddemandedourbusiness;andbeinganswered,thatwehadnonebuttoseeEngland,wewereconductedtoaninn,wherewewereverywellentertained;asonegenerallyisinthiscountry。
Wetookpost-horsesforLondon:itissurprisinghowswiftlytheyrun;theirbridlesareverylight,andtheirsaddleslittlemorethanaspanover。
Flimwell,avillage:herewereturnedourfirsthorses,andmountedfreshones。
WepassedthroughTunbridge,anothervillage。
Chepstead,anothervillage:here,forthesecondtime,wechangedhorses。
London,theheadandmetropolisofEngland:calledbyTacitus,Londinium;byPtolemy,Logidinium;byAmmianusMarcellinus,Lundinium;byforeigners,Londra,andLondres;itistheseatoftheBritishEmpire,andthechamberoftheEnglishkings。ThismostancientcityisthethecountyofMiddlesex,thefruitfullestandwholesomestsoilinEngland。ItisbuiltontheriverThames,sixtymilesfromthesea,andwasoriginallyfounded,asallhistoriansagree,byBrutus,who,comingfromGreeceintoItaly,thenceintoAfrica,nextintoFrance,andlastintoBritain,chosethissituationfortheconvenienceoftheriver,callingitTrojaNova,whichnamewasafterwardscorruptedintoTrinovant。ButwhenLud,thebrotherofCassibilan,orCassivelan,whowarredagainstJuliusCaesar,ashehimselfmentions(lib。v。deBell。Gall。),cametothecrown,heencompasseditwithverystrongwalls,andtowersveryartfullyconstructed,andfromhisownnamecalleditCaierLud,I。E。,Lud’sCity。ThisnamewascorruptedintothatofCaerlunda,andagainintime,bychangeoflanguage,intoLondres。Lud,whenhedied,wasburiedinthistown,nearthatgatewhichisyetcalledinWelsh,PorLud——inSaxon,Ludesgate。
ThefamousriverThamesowespartofitsstream,aswellasitsappellation,totheIsis;risingalittleaboveWinchelcomb,andbeingincreasedwithseveralrivulets,unitesbothitswatersanditsnametotheThame,ontheothersideofOxford;thence,afterpassingbyLondon,andbeingoftheutmostutility,fromitsgreatnessandnavigation,itopensintoavastarmofthesea,fromwhencethetide,accordingtoGemmaFrisius,flowsandebbstothedistanceofeightymiles,twiceintwenty-fivehours,and,accordingtoPolydoreVergil,abovesixtymilestwiceintwenty-fourhours。
Thiscitybeingverylargeofitself,hasveryextensivesuburbs,andafortcalledtheTower,ofbeautifulstructure。Itismagnificentlyornamentedwithpublicbuildingsandchurches,ofwhichthereareaboveonehundredandtwentyparochial。
Onthesouthisabridgeofstoneeighthundredfeetinlength,ofwonderfulwork;itissupportedupontwentypiersofsquarestone,sixtyfeethighandthirtybroad,joinedbyarchesofabouttwentyfeetdiameter。Thewholeiscoveredoneachsidewithhousessodisposedastohavetheappearanceofacontinuedstreet,notatallofabridge。
Uponthisisbuiltatower,onwhosetoptheheadsofsuchashavebeenexecutedforhightreasonareplacedonironspikes:wecountedabovethirty。
PaulusJovius,inhisdescriptionofthemostremarkabletownsinEngland,saysallareobscuredbyLondon:which,intheopinionofmany,isCaesar’scityoftheTrinobantes,thecapitalofallBritain,famousforthecommerceofmanynations;itshousesareelegantlybuilt,itschurchesfine,itstownsstrong,anditsrichesandabundancesurprising。ThewealthoftheworldiswaftedtoitbytheThames,swelledbythetide,andnavigabletomerchantshipsthroughasafeanddeepchannelforsixtymiles,fromitsmouthtothecity:itsbanksareeverywherebeautifiedwithfinecountryseats,woods,andfarms;belowistheroyalpalaceofGreenwich;
above,thatofRichmond;andbetweenboth,onthewestofLondon,risethenoblebuildingsofWestminster,mostremarkableforthecourtsofjustice,theparliament,andSt。Peter’schurch,enrichedwiththeroyaltombs。AtthedistanceoftwentymilesfromLondonisthecastleofWindsor,amostdelightfulretreatoftheKingsofEngland,aswellasfamousforseveraloftheirtombs,andfortheceremonialoftheOrderoftheGarter。Thisriveraboundsinswans,swimminginflocks:thesightofthem,andtheirnoise,arevastlyagreeabletothefleetsthatmeetthemintheircourse。Itisjoinedtothecitybyabridgeofstone,wonderfullybuilt;isneverincreasedbyanyrains,risingonlywiththetide,andiseverywherespreadwithnetsfortakingsalmonandshad。ThusfarPaulusJovius。
PolydoreVergilaffirmsthatLondonhascontinuedtobearoyalcity,andthecapitalofthekingdom,crowdedwithitsowninhabitantsandforeigners,aboundinginriches,andfamousforitsgreattrade,fromthetimeofKingArcheninus,orErchenvinus。Herethekingsarecrowned,andsolemnlyinaugurated,andthecouncilofthenation,orparliament,isheld。Thegovernmentofthecityislodged,byancientgrantoftheKingsofBritain,intwenty-fouraldermen——thatis,seniors:theseannuallyelectoutoftheirownbodyamayorandtwosheriffs,whodeterminecausesaccordingtomunicipallaws。Ithasalwayshad,asindeedBritainingeneralhas,agreatnumberofmenoflearning,muchdistinguishedfortheirwritings。
Thewallsarepiercedwithsixgates,which,astheywererebuilt,acquirednewnames。Twolookwestward:
1。Ludgate,theoldest,socalledfromKingLud,whosenameisyettobeseen,cutinthestoneoverthearchontheside;thoughothersimagineitrathertohavebeennamedFludgate,fromastreamoverwhichitstands,likethePortaFluentanaatRome。IthasbeenlatelyrepairedbyQueenElizabeth,whosestatueisplacedontheoppositeside。And,2。Newgate,thebestedificeofany;socalledfrombeingnewbuilt,whereasbeforeitwasnamedChamberlaingate。Itisthepublicprison。
Onthenortharefour:
1。Aldersgate,assomethinkfromaldertrees;asothers,fromAldericius,aSaxon。
2。Cripplegate,fromahospitalforthelame。
3。Moorgate,fromaneighbouringmorass,nowconvertedintoafield,firstopenedbyFrancetius{1}themayor,A。D。1414。
4。AndBishopsgate,fromsomebishop:thistheGermanmerchantsoftheHanssocietywereobligedbycompacttokeepinrepair,andintimesofdangertodefend。Theywereinpossessionofakeytoopenorshutit,sothatuponoccasiontheycouldcomein,orgoout,bynightorbyday。
Thereisonlyonetotheeast:
Aldgate,thatis,Oldgate,fromitsantiquity;thoughothersthinkittohavebeennamedElbegate。
Severalpeoplebelievethattherewereformerlytwogates(besidesthattothebridge)towardstheThames。
1。Billingsgate,nowacothon,orartificialport,forthereceptionofships。
2。Dourgate,VULGODowgate,I。E。,Water-gate。
ThecathedralofSt。PaulwasfoundedbyEthelbert,KingoftheSaxons,andbeingfromtimetotimere-edified,increasedtovastnessandmagnificence,andinrevenuesomuch,thatitaffordsaplentifulsupporttoabishop,dean,andprecentor,treasurer,fourarchdeacons,twenty-nineprebendaries,andmanyothers。Theroofofthischurch,asofmostothersinEngland,withtheadjoiningsteeple,iscoveredwithlead。
OntherightsideofthechoiristhemarbletombofNicholasBacon,withhiswife。Notfarfromthisisamagnificentmonument,ornamentedwithpyramidsofmarbleandalabaster,withthisinscription:
SacredtothememoryofSirChristopherHatton,sonofWilliam,grandsonofJohn,ofthemostancientfamilyoftheHattons;oneofthefiftygentlemenpensionerstoHerMajestyQueenElizabeth:Gentlemanoftheprivychamber;captainoftheguards;oneofthePrivyCouncil,andHighChancellorofEngland,andoftheUniversityofOxford:who,tothegreatgriefofhisSovereign,andofallgoodmen,endedthislifereligiously,afterhavinglivedunmarriedtotheageoffifty-one,athishouseinHolborn,onthe20thofNovember,A。D。1591。
WilliamHatton,knight,hisnephewbyhissister’sside,andbyadoptionhissonandheir,mostsorrowfullyraisedthistomb,asamarkofhisduty。
OnthelefthandisthemarblemonumentofWilliamHerbert,EarlofPembroke,andhislady:andnearit,thatofJohn,DukeofLancaster,withthisinscriptionHeresleepsintheLord,JohnofGant,socalledfromthecityofthesamenameofFlanders,wherehewasborn,fourthsonofEdwardtheThird,KingofEngland,andcreatedbyhisfatherEarlofRichmond。Hewasthricemarried;firsttoBlanche,daughterandheiressofHenryDukeofLancaster;byherhereceivedanimmenseinheritance,andbecamenotonlyDukeofLancaster,butEarlofLeicester,Lincoln,andDerby,ofwhoseracearedescendedmanyemperors,kings,princes,andnobles。HissecondwifewasConstance,whoishereburied,daughterandheiressofPeter,KingofCastileandLeon,inwhoserighthemostjustly{2}tookthestyleofKingofCastileandLeon。Shebroughthimoneonlydaughter,Catherine,ofwhom,byHenry,aredescendedtheKingsofSpain。HisthirdwifewasCatherine,ofaknight’sfamily,awomanofgreatbeauty,bywhomhehadanumerousprogeny;fromwhichisdescended,bythemother’sside,HenrytheSeventh,themostprudentKingofEngland,bywhosemosthappymarriagewithElizabeth,daughterofEdwardtheFourth,ofthelineofYork,thetworoyallinesofLancasterandYorkareunited,tothemostdesiredtranquillityofEngland。
Themostillustriousprince,John,surnamedPlantagenet,KingofCastileandLeon,DukeofLancaster,EarlofRichmond,Leicester,andDerby,LieutenantofAquitain,HighStewardofEngland,diedinthetwenty-firstyearofRichardII。,A。D。1398。
Alittlefarther,almostattheentranceofthechoir,inacertainrecess,aretwosmallstonechests,oneofwhichisthusinscribed:
HereliesSeba,KingoftheEastSaxons,whowasconvertedtothefaithbySt。Erkenwald,BishopofLondon,A。D。677。
Ontheother:
HereliesEthelred,KingoftheAngles,sonofKingEdgar,OnwhomSt。Dustanissaidtohavedenouncedvengeance,onhiscoronationday,inthefollowingwords:-"Inasmuchasthouhastaspiredtothethronebythedeathofthybrother,againstwhosebloodtheEnglish,alongwiththyinfamousmother,conspired,theswordshallnotpassfromthyhouse!butrageallthedaysofthylife,afflictingallthygeneration,tillthykingdomshallbetranslatedtoanother,whosemannerandlanguagethepeopleundertheeknowethnot。Norshallthysinbedoneawaytillafterlongchastisement,northesinofthymother,northesinofthosemenwhoassistedinthywickedcouncil。"
Allwhichcametopassaspredictedbythesaint;forafterbeingworstedandputtoflightbySuenoKingoftheDanes,andhissonCanute,andatlastcloselybesiegedinLondon,hediedmiserablyA。D。1017,afterhehadreignedthirty-sixyearsingreatdifficulties。
Thereisbesidesinthemiddleofthechurchatombmadeofbrass,ofsomeBishopofLondon,namedWilliam,whowasinfavourwithEdward,KingofEngland,andafterwardsmadecounsellortoKingWilliam。Hewasbishopsixteenyears,anddiedA。D。1077。Nearthisisthefollowinginscription:
Virtuesurvivesthefuneral。
TothememoryofThomasLinacre,aneminentphysician,JohnCaiusplacedthismonument。
Onthelowerpartofitisthisinscriptioningoldletters:
ThomasLinacre,physiciantoKingHenryVIII。,amanlearnedintheGreekandLatinlanguages,andparticularlyskilfulinphysick,bywhichherestoredmanyfromastateoflanguishmentanddespairtolife。HetranslatedwithextraordinaryeloquencemanyofGalen’sworksintoLatin;andpublished,alittlebeforehisdeath,attherequestofhisfriends,averyvaluablebookonthecorrectstructureoftheLatintongue。Hefoundedinperpetuityinfavourofstudentsinphysick,twopubliclecturesatOxford,andoneatCambridge。Inthiscityhebroughtabout,byhisownindustry,theestablishingofaCollegeofPhysicians,ofwhichhewaselectedthefirstpresident。Hewasadetesterofallfraudanddeceit,andfaithfulinhisfriendships;equallydeartomenofallranks:hewentintoordersafewyearsbeforehisdeath,andquittedthislifefullofyears,andmuchlamented,A。D。1524,onthe29thofOctober。
Therearemanytombsinthischurch,butwithoutanyinscriptions。
Ithasaveryfineorgan,which,ateveningprayer,accompaniedwithotherinstruments,isdelightful。
Inthesuburbtothewest,joinedtothecitybyacontinualrowofpalacesbelongingtothechiefnobility,ofamileinlength,andlyingonthesidenexttheThames,isthesmalltownofWestminster;
originallycalledThorney,fromitsthornbushes,butnowWestminster,fromitsaspectanditsmonastery。ThechurchisremarkableforthecoronationandburialoftheKingsofEngland。
UponthisspotissaidformerlytohavestoodatempleofApollo,whichwasthrowndownbyanearthquakeinthetimeofAntoninusPius;fromtheruinsofwhichSebert,KingoftheEastSaxons,erectedanothertoSt。Peter:thiswassubvertedbytheDanes,andagainrenewedbyBishopDunstan,whogaveittoafewmonks。
Afterwards,KingEdwardtheConfessorbuiltitentirelynew,withthetenthofhiswholerevenue,tobetheplaceofhisownburial,andaconventofBenedictinemonks;andenricheditwithestatesdispersedalloverEngland。
Inthischurchthefollowingthingsareworthyofnotice:
Inthefirstchoir,thetombofAnneofCleves,wifeofHenryVIII。,withoutanyinscription。
Ontheoppositesidearetwostonesepulchres:
(1)Edward,EarlofLancaster,brotherofEdwardI。;(2)AdemarofValence,EarlofPembroke,sonofAdemarofValence。Joiningtotheseis(3)thatofAveline,CountessofLancaster。
Inthesecondchoiristhechaironwhichthekingsareseatedwhentheyarecrowned;initisenclosedastone,saidtobethatonwhichthepatriarchJacobsleptwhenhedreamedhesawaladderreachingquiteupintoheaven。SomeLatinversesarewrittenuponatablethangingnearit;thesenseofwhichis:
Thatifanyfaithistobegiventoancientchronicles,astoneofgreatnoteisenclosedinthischair,beingthesameonwhichthepatriarchJacobreposedwhenhebeheldthemiraculousdescentofangels。EdwardI。,theMarsandHectorofEngland,havingconqueredScotland,broughtitfromthence。
ThetombofRichardII。andhiswife,ofbrass,gilt,andtheseverseswrittenroundit:
Perfectandprudent,Richard,byrighttheSecond,VanquishedbyFortune,liesherenowgraveninstone,Trueofhisword,andtheretowellrenound:
Seemlyinperson,andliketoHomerasoneInworldlyprudence,andevertheChurchinoneUpheldandfavoured,castingtheproudtoground,Andallthatwouldhisroyalstateconfound。
Withoutthetombisthisinscription:
HereliesKingRichard,whoperishedbyacrueldeath,intheyear1369。
Tohavebeenhappyisadditionalmisery。
Nearhimisthemonumentofhisqueen,daughteroftheEmperorWenceslaus。
OnthelefthandisthetombofEdwardI。,withthisinscription:
HereliesEdwardI。,whohumbledtheScots。A。D。1308。
Betruetoyourengagements。
Hereignedforty-sixyears。
ThetombofEdwardIII。,ofcopper,gilt,withthisepitaph:
OfEnglishkingsherelieththebeauteousflowerOfallbeforepast,andmyrrortothemshallsue:
Amercifulking,ofpeaceconservator,ThethirdEdward,&c。
Besidesthetombarethesewords:
EdwardIII。,whosefamehasreachedtoheaven。A。D。1377,Fightforyourcountry。
Hereisshownhissword,eightfeetinlength,whichtheysayheusedintheconquestofFrance。
Hisqueen’sepitaph:
HereliesQueenPhilippa,wifeofEdwardIII。Learntolive。A。D。
1369。
Atalittledistance,thetombofHenryV。,withthislegend:
Henry,thescourgeofFrance,liesinthistomb。Virtuesubduesallthings。A。D。1422。
NearthisliesthecoffinofCatherine,unburied,andtobeopenedbyanyonethatpleases。Ontheoutsideisthisinscription:
FairCatherineisatlengthunitedtoherlord。A。D。1437。
Shunidleness。
ThetombofHenryIII。,ofbrass,gilt,withthisepitaph:
HenryIII。,thefounderofthiscathedral。A。D。1273。Warisdelightfultotheunexperienced。
ItwasthisHenrywho,onehundredandsixtyyearsafterEdwardtheConfessorhadbuiltthischurch,tookitdown,andraisedanentirenewoneofbeautifularchitecture,supportedbyrowsofmarblecolumns,anditsroofcoveredwithsheetsoflead,aworkoffiftyyearsbeforeitscompletion。Ithasbeenmuchenlargedatthewestendbytheabbots。Aftertheexpulsionofthemonks,itexperiencedmanychanges;firstithadadeanandprebendaries;thenabishop,who,havingsquanderedtherevenues,resigneditagaintoadean。
Inalittletime,themonkswiththeirabbotwerereinstatedbyQueenMary;but,theybeingsoonejectedagainbyauthorityofparliament,itwasconvertedintoacathedralchurch——nay,intoaseminaryfortheChurch——byQueenElizabeth,whoinstitutedtheretwelveprebendaries,anequalnumberofinvalidsoldiers,andfortyscholars;whoatapropertimeareelectedintotheuniversities,andarethencetransplantedintotheChurchandState。
NexttobeseenisthetombofEleanor,daughterofAlphonsoKingofSpain,andwifeofEdwardI。,withthisinscription:
ThisEleanorwasconsortofEdwardI。
A。D。1298。Learntodie。
ThetombofElizabeth,daughterofHenryVII。
InthemiddleofthischapelistheshrineofSt。Edward,thelastKingoftheSaxons。Itiscomposedofmarbleinmosaic:rounditrunsthisinscriptioninlettersofgold:
Thevenerableking,St。EdwardtheConfessor,Aheroeadornedwitheveryvirtue。
Hediedonthe5thofJanuary,1065,AndmountedintoHeaven。
Liftupyourhearts。
Thethirdchoir,ofsurprisingsplendourandelegance,wasaddedtotheeastendbyHenryVII。foraburying-placeforhimselfandhisposterity。Hereistobeseenhismagnificenttomb,wroughtofbrassandmarble,withthisepitaph:
HereliesHenryVII。ofthatname,formerlyKingofEngland,sonofEdmund,EarlofRichmond,who,ascendingthethroneonthetwenty-
seconddayofAugust,wascrownedonthethirtiethofOctoberfollowingatWestminster,intheyearofourLord1485。Hediedonthetwenty-firstofApril,inthefifty-thirdyearofhisage,afterareignoftwenty-twoyearsandeightmonthswantingaday。
Thismonumentisenclosedwithrailsofbrass,withalongepitaphinLatinverse。
UnderthesametombliesburiedEdwardVI。,KingofEngland,sonofHenryVIII。byJaneSeymour。Hesucceededtohisfatherwhenhewasbutnineyearsold,anddiedA。T。1553,onthe6thofJuly,inthesixteenthyearofhisage,andofhisreigntheseventh,notwithoutsuspicionofpoison。
Marywasproclaimedqueenbythepeopleonthe19thofJuly,anddiedinNovember,1558,andisburiedinsomecornerofthesamechoir,withoutanyinscription。
QueenElizabeth。
HereliesQueenElizabeth,daughterofEdwardIV。,sisterofKingEdwardV。,wifeofHenryVII。,andthegloriousmotherofHenryVIII。ShediedintheTowerofLondon,ontheeleventhofFebruary,A。D。1502,inthethirty-seventhyearofherage。
Betweenthesecondandthirdchoirsintheside-chapels,arethetombsofSebert,KingoftheEastSaxons,whobuiltthischurchwithstone:andOfMargaretofRichmond,motherofHenryVII。,grandmotherofHenryVIII。;shegavethismonasterytothemonksofWinbourne,{3}whopreachedandtaughtgrammarallEnglandover,andappointedsalariestotwoprofessorsofdivinity,oneatOxford,anotheratCambridge,whereshefoundedtwocollegestoChristandtoJohnHisdisciple。
ShediedA。D。1463,onthethirdofthecalendsofJuly。
AndofMargaret,CountessofLenox,grandmotherofJamesVI。,KingofScotland。
WilliamofValance,half-brotherofHenryIII。
TheEarlofCornwall,brotherofEdwardIII。
UponanothertombisanhonoraryinscriptionforFrances,DuchessofSuffolk。Thesenseofitis,Thattitles,royalbirth,riches,oralargefamily,areofnoavail:
Thatallaretransitory;virtuealoneresistingthefuneralpile。
Thatthisladywasfirstmarriedtoaduke,thentoStoke,agentleman;
Andlastly,bythegraveespousedtoCHRIST。
ThenextisthetombofLordRussell,sonoftheEarlofBedford,whoseladycomposedthefollowingGreekandLatinverses,andhadthemengravedonthemarble:-
HowwasIstartledatthecruelfeast,Bydeath’srudehandsinhorridmannerdrest;
Suchgriefassurenohaplesswomanknew,Whenthypaleimagelaybeforemyview。
Thyfather’sheirinbeauteousformarrayedLikeflowersinspring,andfair,likethemtofade;
Leavingbehindunhappywretchedme,Andallthylittleorphan-progeny:
Alikethebeauteousface,thecomelyair,Thetonguepersuasive,andtheactionsfair,Decay:solearningtoointimeshallwaste:
Butfaith,chastelovelyfaith,shalleverlast。
Theoncebrightgloryofhishouse,theprideOfallhiscountry,dustyruinshide:
Mourn,haplessorphans;mourn,oncehappywife;
Forwhenhedied,diedallthejoysoflife。
Piousandjust,amidstalargeestate,Hegotatoncethenameofgoodandgreat。
Hemadenoflatt’ringparasitehisguest,Butaskedthegoodcompanionstothefeast。
Anne,CountessofOxford,daughterofWilliamCecil,BaronBurleigh,andLordTreasurer。
Philippa,daughterandco-heiressofJohn,LordMohunofDunster,wifeofEdward,DukeofYork。
Frances,CountessofSussex,oftheancientfamilyofSidney。
ThomasBromley,ChancellortoQueenElizabeth。
TheEarlofBridgewater,{4}LordDawbney,LordChamberlaintoHenryVII。,andhislady。
AndthusmuchforWestminster。
Therearemanyotherchurchesinthiscity,butnonesoremarkableforthetombsofpersonsofdistinction。
NeartothischurchisWestminsterHall,where,besidestheSessionsofParliament,whichareoftenheldthere,aretheCourtsofJustice;andatstatedtimesareheardtheirtrialsinlaw,orconcerningtheking’spatrimony,orinchancery,whichmoderatestheseverityofthecommonlawbyequity。TillthetimeofHenryI。thePrimeCourtofJusticewasmovable,andfollowedtheKing’sCourt,butheenactedbytheMagnaChartathatthecommonpleasshouldnolongerattendhisCourt,butbeheldatsomedeterminedplace。ThepresenthallwasbuiltbyKingRichardII。intheplaceofanancientonewhichhecausedtobetakendown。Hemadeitpartofhishabitation(foratthattimetheKingsofEnglanddeterminedcausesintheirownproperperson,andfromthedaysofEdwardtheConfessorhadtheirpalaceadjoining),till,abovesixtyyearssince,uponitsbeingburnt,HenryVIII。removedtheroyalresidencetoWhitehall,situatedintheneighbourhood,whichalittlebeforewasthehouseofCardinalWolsey。Thispalaceistrulyroyal,enclosedononesidebytheThames,ontheotherbyapark,whichconnectsitwithSt。James’s,anotherroyalpalace。
InthechamberwheretheParliamentisusuallyheld,theseatsandwainscotaremadeofwood,thegrowthofIreland;saidtohavethatoccultquality,thatallpoisonousanimalsaredrivenawaybyit;
anditisaffirmedforcertain,thatinIrelandthereareneitherserpents,toads,noranyothervenomouscreaturetobefound。
Nearthisplaceareseenanimmensenumberofswans,whowanderupanddowntheriverforsomemiles,ingreatsecurity;nobodydaringtomolest,muchlesskillanyofthem,underpenaltyofaconsiderablefine。
InWhitehallarethefollowingthingsworthyofobservation:-
I。TheRoyalLibrary,wellstoredwithGreek,Latin,ItalianandFrenchbooks;amongsttherest,alittleoneinFrenchuponparchment,inthehandwritingofthepresentreigningQueenElizabeth,thusinscribed:-
Tothemosthigh,puissant,andredoubtedprince,HenryVIII。ofthename,KingofEngland,FranceandIreland,DefenderoftheFaith;
Elizabeth,hismosthumbledaughter。Healthandobedience。
Allthesebooksareboundinvelvetindifferentcolours,thoughchieflyred,withclaspsofgoldandsilver;somehavepearlsandpreciousstonessetintheirbindings。
II。Twolittlesilvercabinetsofexquisitework,inwhichtheQueenkeepsherpaper,andwhichsheusesforwritingboxes。
III。TheQueen’sbed,ingeniouslycomposedofwoodsofdifferentcolours,withquiltsofsilk,velvet,gold,silver,andembroidery。
IV。Alittlechestornamentedalloverwithpearls,inwhichtheQueenkeepsherbracelets,ear-rings,andotherthingsofextraordinaryvalue。
V。Christ’sPassion,inpaintedglass。
VI。Portraits:amongwhichare,QueenElizabeth,atsixteenyearsold;Henry,Richard,Edward,KingsofEngland;Rosamond;Lucrece,aGrecianbride,inhernuptialhabit;thegenealogyoftheKingsofEngland;apictureofKingEdwardVI。,representingatfirstsightsomethingquitedeformed,tillbylookingthroughasmallholeinthecoverwhichisputoverit,youseeitinitstrueproportions;
CharlesV。,Emperor;CharlesEmanuel,DukeofSavoy,andCatherineofSpain,hiswife;Ferdinand,DukeofFlorence,withhisdaughters;
oneofPhilip,KingofSpain,whenhecameintoEnglandandmarriedMary;HenryVII。,HenryVIII。,andhismother;besidesmanymoreofillustriousmenandwomen;andapictureoftheSiegeofMalta。
VII。Asmallhermitage,halfhidinarock,finelycarvedinwood。
VIII。Varietyofemblemsonpaper,cutintheshapeofshields,withmottoes,usedbythemobilityattiltsandtournaments,hunguphereforamemorial。
IX。Differentinstrumentsofmusic,upononeofwhichtwopersonsmayperformatthesametime。
X。Apieceofclock-work,anEthiopridinguponarhinoceros,withfourattendants,whoallmaketheirobeisancewhenitstrikesthehour;theseareallputintomotionbywindingupthemachine。
AttheentranceintotheparkfromWhitehallisthisinscription:-
Thefishermanwhohasbeenwounded,learns,thoughlate,tobeware;
ButtheunfortunateActaeonalwayspresseson。
Thechastevirginnaturallypitied:
Butthepowerfulgoddessrevengedthewrong。
LetActaeonfallapreytohisdogs,Anexampletoyouth,Adisgracetothosethatbelongtohim!
MayDianalivethecareofHeaven;
Thedelightofmortals;
Thesecurityofthosethatbelongtoher!{5}
Inthisparkisgreatplentyofdeer。
InagardenjoiningtothispalacethereisaJETD’EAU,withasun-
dial,whichwhilestrangersarelookingat,aquantityofwater,forcedbyawheelwhichthegardenerturnsatadistance,throughanumberoflittlepipes,plentifullysprinklesthosethatarestandinground。
Guildhall,afinestructurebuiltbyThomasKnowles。Herearetobeseenthestatuesoftwogiants,saidtohaveassistedtheEnglishwhentheRomansmadewaruponthem:CoriniusofBritain,andGogmagogofAlbion。BeneathuponatablethetitlesofCharlesV。,Emperor,arewritteninlettersofgold。
ThegovernmentofLondonisthis:thecityisdividedintotwenty-
fiveregionsorwards;theCounciliscomposedoftwenty-fouraldermen,oneofwhompresidesovereveryward。Andwhereasofoldthechiefmagistratewasaportreeve,I。E。,governorofthecity,RichardI。appointedtwobailiffs;insteadofwhichKingJohngaveapowerbygrantofchoosingannuallyamayorfromanyofthetwelveprincipalcompanies,andtonametwosheriffs,oneofwhomtobecalledtheking’s,theotherthecity’s。Itisscarcecrediblehowthiscityincreased,bothinpublicandprivatebuildings,uponestablishingthisformofgovernment。VIDECamden’s"Britannia,"
Middlesex。
Itisworthyofobservation,thateveryyear,uponSt。Bartholomew’sDay,whenthefairisheld,itisusualforthemayor,attendedbythetwelveprincipalaldermen,towalkinaneighbouringfield,dressedinhisscarletgown,andabouthisneckagoldenchain,towhichishungagoldenfleece,{6}andbesides,thatparticularornament{7}whichdistinguishesthemostnobleorderofthegarter。
Duringtheyearofhismagistracy,heisobligedtolivesomagnificently,thatforeignerornative,withoutanyexpense,isfree,ifhecanfindachairempty,todineathistable,wherethereisalwaysthegreatestplenty。Whenthemayorgoesoutoftheprecinctsofthecity,asceptre,asword,andacap,arebornebeforehim,andheisfollowedbytheprincipalaldermeninscarletgowns,withgoldchains;himselfandtheyonhorseback。Upontheirarrivalataplaceappointedforthatpurpose,whereatentispitched,themobbegintowrestlebeforethem,twoatatime;theconquerorsreceiverewardsfromthemagistrates。Afterthisisover,aparcelofliverabbitsareturnedlooseamongthecrowd,whicharepursuedbyanumberofboys,whoendeavourtocatchthem,withallthenoisetheycanmake。Whilewewereatthisshow,oneofourcompany,TobiasSalander,doctorofphysic,hadhispocketpickedofhispurse,withninecrownsdusoleil,which,withoutdoubt,wassocleverlytakenfromhimbyanEnglishmanwhoalwayskeptveryclosetohim,thatthedoctordidnotintheleastperceiveit。
TheCastleorTowerofLondon,calledBringwin,andTourgwin,inWelsh,fromitswhiteness,isencompassedbyaverydeepandbroadditch,aswellasadoublewallveryhigh。Inthemiddleofthewholeisthatveryancientandverystrongtower,enclosedwithfourothers,which,intheopinionofsome,wasbuiltbyJuliusCaesar。
Uponenteringthetower,wewereobligedtoquitourswordsatthegateanddeliverthemtotheguard。Whenwewereintroduced,wewereshownaboveahundredpiecesofarrasbelongingtotheCrown,madeofgold,silver,andsilk;severalsaddlescoveredwithvelvetofdifferentcolours;animmensequantityofbed-furniture,suchascanopies,andthelike,someofthemmostrichlyornamentedwithpearl;someroyaldresses,soextremelymagnificentastoraiseanyone’sadmirationatthesumstheymusthavecost。WewerenextledintotheArmoury,inwhicharetheseparticularities:-Spears,outofwhichyoumayshoot;shields,thatwillgivefirefourtimes;agreatmanyrichhalberds,commonlycalledpartisans,withwhichtheguarddefendtheroyalpersoninbattle;somelances,coveredwithredandgreenvelvet,andthebody-armourofHenryVIII。;manyandverybeautifularms,aswellformenasforhorsesinhorse-fights;
thelanceofCharlesBrandon,DukeofSuffolk,threespansthick;
twopiecesofcannon,theonefiresthree,theothersevenballsatatime;twoothersmadeofwood,whichtheEnglishhasatthesiegeofBoulogne,inFrance。Andbythisstratagem,withoutwhichtheycouldnothavesucceeded,theystruckaterrorintotheinhabitants,asattheappearanceofartillery,andthetownwassurrendereduponarticles;nineteencannonofathickermakethanordinary,andinaroomapart;thirty-sixofasmaller;othercannonforchain-shot;
andballspropertobringdownmastsofships。Cross-bows,bowsandarrows,ofwhichtothisdaytheEnglishmakegreatuseintheirexercises;butwhocanrelateallthatistobeseenhere?Eightorninemenemployedbytheyeararescarcesufficienttokeepallthearmsbright。
TheMintforcoiningmoneyisintheTower。
N。B。——Itistobenoted,thatwhenanyofthenobilityaresenthither,onthechargeofhighcrimes,punishablewithdeath,suchastreason,&c。,theyseldomorneverrecovertheirliberty。HerewasbeheadedAnneBoleyn,wifeofKingHenryVIII。,andliesburiedinthechapel,butwithoutanyinscription;andQueenElizabethwaskeptprisonerherebyhersister,QueenMary,atwhosedeathshewasenlarged,andbyrightcalledtothethrone。
OncomingoutoftheTower,wewereledtoasmallhousecloseby,wherearekeptvarietyofcreatures,viz。——threelionesses;onelionofgreatsize,calledEdwardVI。fromhishavingbeenborninthatreign:atiger;alynx;awolfexcessivelyold——thisisaveryscarceanimalinEngland,sothattheirsheepandcattlestrayaboutingreatnumbers,freefromanydanger,thoughwithoutanybodytokeepthem;thereis,besides,aporcupine,andaneagle。Allthesecreaturesarekeptinaremoteplace,fittedupforthepurposewithwoodenlattices,attheQueen’sexpense。
NeartothisTowerisalargeopenspace;onthehighestpartofitiserectedawoodenscaffold,fortheexecutionofnoblecriminals;
uponwhich,theysay,threeprincesofEngland,thelastoftheirfamilies,havebeenbeheadedforhightreason;onthebankoftheThamesclosebyareagreatmanycannon,suchchieflyasareusedatsea。
ThenextthingworthyofnoteistheRoyalExchange,sonamedbyQueenElizabeth,builtbySirThomasGresham,citizen,forpublicornamentandtheconvenienceofmerchants。Ithasagreateffect,whetheryouconsiderthestatelinessofthebuilding,theassemblageofdifferentnations,orthequantitiesofmerchandise。IshallsaynothingofthehallbelongingtotheHansSociety;oroftheconveyanceofwatertoallpartsofthetownbysubterraneouspipes,northebeautifulconduitsandcisternsforthereceptionofit;noroftheraisingofwateroutoftheThamesbyawheel,inventedafewyearssincebyaGerman。
Bridewell,atpresenttheHouseofCorrection;itwasbuiltinsixweeksforthereceptionoftheEmperorCharlesV。
AHallbuiltbyacobblerandbestowedonthecity,whereareexposedtosale,threetimesinaweek,corn,wool,cloth,fruits,andthelike。
Withoutthecityaresometheatres,whereEnglishactorsrepresentalmosteverydaytragediesandcomediestoaverynumerousaudiences;theseareconcludedwithexcellentmusic,varietyofdances,andtheexcessiveapplauseofthosethatarepresent。
Notfarfromoneofthesetheatres,whichareallbuiltofwood,liestheroyalbarge,closetotheriver。Ithastwosplendidcabins,beautifullyornamentedwithglasswindows,painting,andgilding;itiskeptupondryground,andshelteredfromtheweather。
Thereisstillanotherplace,builtintheformofatheatre,whichservesforthebaitingofbullsandbears;theyarefastenedbehind,andthenworriedbygreatEnglishbull-dogs,butnotwithoutgreatrisktothedogs,fromthehornsoftheoneandtheteethoftheother;anditsometimeshappensthattheyarekilleduponthespot;
freshonesareimmediatelysuppliedintheplacesofthosethatarewoundedortired。Tothisentertainmentthereoftenfollowsthatofwhippingablindedbear,whichisperformedbyfiveorsixmen,standingcircularlywithwhips,whichtheyexerciseuponhimwithoutanymercy,ashecannotescapefromthembecauseofhischain;hedefendshimselfwithallhisforceandskill,throwingdownallwhocomewithinhisreachandarenotactiveenoughtogetoutofit,andtearingthewhipsoutoftheirhandsandbreakingthem。Atthesespectacles,andeverywhereelse,theEnglishareconstantlysmokingtobacco;andinthismanner——theyhavepipesonpurposemadeofclay,intothefartherendofwhichtheyputtheherb,sodrythatitmayberubbedintopowder,andputtingfiretoit,theydrawthesmokeintotheirmouths,whichtheypuffoutagainthroughtheirnostrilslikefunnels,alongwithitplentyofphlegmanddefluxionfromthehead。Inthesetheatres,fruits,suchasapples,pears,andnuts,accordingtotheseason,arecarriedabouttobesold,aswellasaleandwine。
Therearefifteencollegeswithinandwithoutthecity,noblybuilt,withbeautifulgardensadjoining。Ofthesethethreeprincipalare:-
I。TheTemple,inhabitedformerlybytheKnightsTemplars;itseemstohavetakenitsnamefromtheoldtemple,orchurch,whichhasaroundtoweraddedtoit,underwhichliedburiedthoseKingsofDenmarkthatreignedinEngland。
II。Gray’sInn。And,III。Lincoln’sInn。
Inthesecollegesnumbersofyoungnobility,gentry,andothers,areeducated,andchieflyinthestudyofphysic,forveryfewapplythemselvestothatofthelaw;theyareallowedaverygoodtable,andsilvercupstodrinkoutof。Onceapersonofdistinction,whocouldnothelpbeingsurprisedatthegreatnumberofcups,said,"Heshouldhavethoughtitmoresuitabletothelifeofstudents,iftheyhadusedratherglass,orearthenware,thansilver。"Thecollegeanswered,"Theywerereadytomakehimapresentofalltheirplate,providedhewouldundertaketosupplythemwithalltheglassandearthenwaretheyshouldhaveademandfor;sinceitwasverylikelyhewouldfindtheexpense,fromconstantbreaking,exceedthevalueofthesilver。"
Thestreetsinthiscityareveryhandsomeandclean;butthatwhichisnamedfromthegoldsmithswhoinhabitit,surpassesalltherest;
thereisinitagilttower,withafountainthatplays。Nearit,onthefartherside,isahandsomehousebuiltbyagoldsmithandpresentedbyhimtothecity。Therearebesidestobeseeninthisstreet,asinallotherswheretherearegoldsmiths’shops,allsortsofgoldandsilvervesselsexposedtosale,aswellasancientandmodernmedals,insuchquantitiesasmustsurpriseamanthefirsttimeheseesandconsidersthem。
Fitz-Stephen,awriterofEnglishhistory,reckonedinhistimeinLondononehundredandtwenty-sevenparishchurches,andthirteenbelongingtoconvents;hementions,besides,thatuponareviewthereofmenabletobeararms,thepeoplebroughtintothefieldundertheircoloursfortythousandfootandtwentythousandhorse。
VIDECamden’s"Britannia,"Middlesex。
Thebestoystersaresoldhereingreatquantities。
EverybodyknowsthatEnglishclothismuchapprovedofforthegoodnessofthematerials,andimportedintoallthekingdomsandprovincesofEurope。
Wewereshown,atthehouseofLeonardSmith,atailor,amostperfectlooking-glass,ornamentedwithgold,pearl,silver,andvelvet,sorichlyastobeestimatedatfivehundredecusdusoleil。
Wesawatthesameplacethehippocampandeaglestone,bothverycuriousandrare。
AndthusmuchofLondon。
Upontakingtheairdowntheriver,thefirstthingthatstruckuswastheshipofthatnoblepirate,SirFrancisDrake,inwhichheissaidtohavesurroundedthisglobeofearth。OnthelefthandliesRatcliffe,aconsiderablesuburb:ontheoppositeshoreisfixedalongpolewithram’s-hornsuponit,theintentionofwhichwasvulgarlysaidtobeareflectionuponwilfulandcontentedcuckolds。
WearrivednextattheroyalpalaceofGreenwich,reportedtohavebeenoriginallybuiltbyHumphrey,DukeofGloucester,andtohavereceivedverymagnificentadditionsfromHenryVII。ItwashereElizabeth,thepresentQueen,wasborn,andhershegenerallyresides,particularlyinsummer,forthedelightfulnessofitssituation。Wewereadmitted,byanorderMr。RogershadprocuredfromtheLordChamberlain,intothepresencechamber,hungwithrichtapestry,andthefloor,aftertheEnglishfashion,strewedwithhay,{8}throughwhichtheQueencommonlypassesonherwaytochapel。Atthedoorstoodagentlemandressedinvelvet,withagoldchain,whoseofficewastointroducetotheQueenanypersonofdistinctionthatcametowaitonher;itwasSunday,whenthereisusuallythegreatestattendanceofnobility。InthesamehallweretheArchbishopofCanterbury,theBishopofLondon,agreatnumberofCouncillorsofState,officersoftheCrown,andgentlemen,whowaitedtheQueen’scomingout;whichshedidfromherownapartmentwhenitwastimetogotoprayers,attendedinthefollowingmanner:-
Firstwentgentlemen,barons,earls,KnightsoftheGarter,allrichlydressedandbareheaded;nextcametheChancellor,bearingthesealsinaredsilkpurse,betweentwo,oneofwhomcarriedtheRoyalsceptre,theothertheswordofstate,inaredscabbard,studdedwithgoldenFLEURSDELIS,thepointupwards:nextcametheQueen,inthesixty-fifthyearofherage,asweweretold,verymajestic;herfaceoblong,fair,butwrinkled;hereyessmall,yetblackandpleasant;hernosealittlehooked;herlipsnarrow,andherteethblack(adefecttheEnglishseemsubjectto,fromtheirtoogreatuseofsugar);shehadinherearstwopearls,withveryrichdrops;sheworefalsehair,andthatred;uponherheadshehadasmallcrown,reportedtobemadeofsomeofthegoldofthecelebratedLunebourgtable;herbosomwasuncovered,asalltheEnglishladieshaveittilltheymarry;andshehadonanecklaceofexceedingfinejewels;herhandsweresmall,herfingerslong,andherstatureneithertallnorlow;herairwasstately,hermannerofspeakingmildandobliging。Thatdayshewasdressedinwhitesilk,borderedwithpearlsofthesizeofbeans,andoveritamantleofblacksilk,shotwithsilverthreads;hertrainwasverylong,theendofitbornebyamarchioness;insteadofachain,shehadanoblongcollarofgoldandjewels。Asshewentalonginallthisstateandmagnificence,shespokeverygraciously,firsttoone,thentoanother,whetherforeignMinisters,orthosewhoattendedfordifferentreasons,inEnglish,French,andItalian;for,besidesbeingwellskilledinGreek,Latin,andthelanguagesIhavementioned,sheismistressofSpanish,Scotch,andDutch。Whoeverspeakstoher,itiskneeling;nowandthensheraisessomewithherhand。Whilewewerethere,W。Slawata,aBohemianbaron,hadletterstopresenttoher;andshe,afterpullingoffherglove,gavehimherrighthandtokiss,sparklingwithringsandjewels,amarkofparticularfavour。Whereversheturnedherface,asshewasgoingalong,everybodyfelldownontheirknees。{9}Theladiesofthecourtfollowednexttoher,veryhandsomeandwell-shaped,andforthemostpartdressedinwhite。Shewasguardedoneachsidebythegentlemenpensioners,fiftyinnumber,withgiltbattle-axes。
Intheante-chapel,nextthehallwherewewere,petitionswerepresentedtoher,andshereceivedthemmostgraciously,whichoccasionedtheacclamationof"LongLiveQueenElizabeth!"Sheanswereditwith"Ithankyou,mygoodpeople。"Inthechapelwasexcellentmusic;assoonasitandtheservicewereover,whichscarceexceededhalfanhour,theQueenreturnedinthesamestateandorder,andpreparedtogotodinner。Butwhileshewasstillatprayers,wesawhertablesetoutwiththefollowingsolemnity:-
Agentlemanenteredtheroombearingarod,andalongwithhimanotherwhohadatable-clothwhich,aftertheyhadbothkneeledthreetimeswiththeutmostveneration,hespreaduponthetable,and,afterkneelingagain,theybothretired。Thencametwoothers,onewiththerodagain,theotherwithasalt-cellar,aplate,andbread;whentheyhadkneeledastheothershaddone,andplacedwhatwasbroughtuponthetable,theytooretiredwiththesameceremoniesperformedbythefirst。Atlastcameanunmarriedlady(weweretoldshewasacountess),andalongwithheramarriedone,bearingatasting-knife;theformerwasdressedinwhitesilk,who,whenshehadprostratedherselfthreetimesinthemostgracefulmanner,approachedthetableandrubbedtheplateswithbreadandsaltwithasmuchaweasiftheQueenhadbeenpresent。Whentheyhadwaitedtherealittlewhile,theyeomenoftheguardsentered,bareheaded,clothedinscarlet,withagoldenroseupontheirbacks,bringinginateachturnacourseoftwenty-fourdishes,servedinplate,mostofitgilt;thesedisheswerereceivedbyagentlemaninthesameordertheywerebrought,andplaceduponthetable,whiletheladytastergavetoeachoftheguardamouthfultoeatoftheparticulardishhehadbrought,forfearofanypoison。Duringthetimethatthisguard,whichconsistsofthetallestandstoutestmenthatcanbefoundinallEngland,beingcarefullyselectedforthisservice,werebringingdinner,twelvetrumpetsandtwokettledrumsmadethehallringforhalfanhourtogether。Attheendofallthisceremonial,anumberofunmarriedladiesappeared,who,withparticularsolemnity,liftedthemeatoffthetable,andconveyeditintotheQueen’sinnerandmoreprivatechamber,where,aftershehadchosenforherself,therestgoestotheladiesoftheCourt。
TheQueendinesandsupsalonewithveryfewattendants,anditisveryseldomthatanybody,foreignerornative,isadmittedatthattime,andthenonlyattheintercessionofsomebodyinpower。
NearthispalaceistheQueen’spark,stockedwithdeer。SuchparksarecommonthroughoutEngland,belongingtothosethataredistinguishedeitherfortheirrankorriches。Inthemiddleofthisisanoldsquaretower,calledMirefleur,supposedtobethatmentionedintheromanceof"AmadisdeGaul;"andjoiningtoitaplain,whereknightsandothergentlemenusetomeet,atsettimesandholidays,toexerciseonhorseback。
WeleftLondoninacoach,inordertoseetheremarkableplacesinitsneighbourhood。
ThefirstwasTheobalds,belongingtoLordBurleigh,theTreasurer。
InthegallerywaspaintedthegenealogyoftheKingsofEngland;
fromthisplaceonegoesintothegarden,encompassedwithaditchfullofwater,largeenoughforonetohavethepleasureofgoinginaboatandrowingbetweentheshrubs;herearegreatvarietyoftreesandplants,labyrinthsmadewithagreatdealoflabour,aJET
D’EAU,withitsbasinofwhitemarble,andcolumnsandpyramidsofwoodandothermaterialsupanddownthegarden。Afterseeingthese,wewereledbythegardenerintothesummer-house,inthelowerpartofwhich,builtsemicircularly,arethetwelveRomanemperorsinwhitemarble,andatableoftouchstone;theupperpartofitissetroundwithcisternsoflead,intowhichthewaterisconveyedthroughpipes,sothatfishmaybekeptinthem,andinsummer-timetheyareveryconvenientforbathing。Inanotherroomforentertainment,verynearthis,andjoinedtoitbyalittlebridge,wasanovaltableofredmarble。Wewerenotadmittedtoseetheapartmentsofthispalace,therebeingnobodytoshowit,asthefamilywasintown,attendingthefuneraloftheirlord。{10}
Hoddesdon,avillage。
Ware,amarkettown。
Puckeridge,avillage;thiswasthefirstplacewhereweobservedthatthebedsatinnsweremadebythewaiters。
Camboritum,CantabrigiumandCantabrigia,nowcalledCambridge,acelebratedtown,sonamedfromtheriverCam,whichafterwashingthewesternside,playingthroughislands,turnstotheeast,anddividesthetownintotwoparts,whicharejoinedbyabridge,whenceitsmodernname——formerlyithadtheSaxononeofGrantbridge。Beyondthisbridgeisanancientandlargecastle,saidtobebuiltbytheDanes:onthisside,wherefarthegreaterpartofthetownstands,allissplendid;thestreetsfine,thechurchesnumerous,andthoseseatsoftheMuses,thecolleges,mostbeautiful;intheseagreatnumberoflearnedmenaresupported,andthestudiesofallpolitesciencesandlanguagesflourish。
IthinkpropertomentionsomefewthingsaboutthefoundationofthisUniversityanditscolleges。Cantaber,aSpaniard,isthoughttohavefirstinstitutedthisacademy375yearsbeforeChrist,andSebert,KingoftheEastAngles,tohaverestoreditA。D。630。ItwasafterwardssubvertedintheconfusionundertheDanes,andlaylongneglected,tillupontheNormanConquesteverythingbegantobrightenupagain:fromthattimeinnsandhallsfortheconvenientlodgingofstudentsbegantobebuilt,butwithoutanyrevenuesannexedtothem。
Thefirstcollege,calledPeterHouse,wasbuiltandendowedbyHughBalsam,BishopofEly,A。D。1280;and,inimitationofhim,RichardBadew,withtheassistanceofElizabethBurke,CountessofClareandUlster,foundedClareHallin1326;MarydeSt。Paul,CountessofPembroke,PembrokeHallin1343;theMonksofCorpusChristi,thecollegeofthesamename,thoughithasbesidesthatofBennet;JohnCraudene,TrinityHall,1354;EdmondGonville,in1348,andJohnCaius,aphysicianinourtimes,GonvilleandCaiusCollege;KingHenryVI。,King’sCollege,in1441,addingtoitachapelthatmayjustlyclaimaplaceamongthemostbeautifulbuildingsintheworld。Onitsrightsideisafinelibrary,wherewesawthe"BookofPsalms"inmanuscript,uponparchmentfourspansinlengthandthreebroad,takenfromtheSpaniardsatthesiegeofCadiz,andthencebroughtintoEnglandwithotherrichspoils。MargaretofAnjou,hiswife,foundedQueen’sCollege,1448,atthesametimethatJohnAlcock,BishopofEly,builtJesusCollege;RobertWoodlarke,CatherineHall;MargaretofRichmond,motherofKingHenryVII。,Christ’sandSt。John’sColleges,about1506;ThomasAudley,ChancellorofEngland,MagdalenCollege,muchincreasedsincebothinbuildingsandrevenuebyChristopherWray,LordChiefJustice;andthemostpotentKingHenryVIII。erectedTrinityCollegeforreligionandpoliteletters——initschapelisthetombofDr。Whitacre,withaninscriptioningoldlettersuponmarble;
EmanuelCollege,builtinourowntimesbythemosthonourableandprudentSirWalterMildmay,oneofHerMajesty’sPrivyCouncil;andlastly,SidneyCollege,nowfirstbuildingbytheexecutorsoftheLadyFrancesSidney,{11}CountessofSussex。