WemustnoteherethatthereiscertainsectinEnglandcalledPuritans;these,accordingtothedoctrineoftheChurchofGeneva,rejectallceremoniesancientlyheld,andadmitofneitherorgansnortombsintheirplacesofworship,andentirelyabhoralldifferenceinrankamongChurchmen,suchasbishops,deans,&c。;
  theywerefirstnamedPuritansbytheJesuitSandys。Theydonotliveseparate,butmixwiththoseoftheChurchofEnglandinthecolleges。
  Potton,avillage。
  Ampthill,atown;herewesawimmensenumbersofrabbits,whicharereckonedasgoodashares,andareverywelltasted。
  WepassedthroughthetownsofWoburn,Leighton,Aylesbury,andWheatley。
  Oxonium,Oxford,thefamedAthensofEngland;thatgloriousseminaryoflearningandwisdom,whencereligion,politeness,andletters,areabundantlydispersedintoallpartsofthekingdom。Thetownisremarkablyfine,whetheryouconsidertheeleganceofitsprivatebuildings,themagnificenceofitspublicones,orthebeautyandwholesomenessofitssituation,whichisonaplain,encompassedinsuchamannerwithhills,shadedwithwood,astobeshelteredontheonehandfromthesicklysouth,andontheotherfromtheblusteringwest,butopentotheeast,thatblowssereneweather,andtothenorth,thepreventerofcorruption,fromwhich,intheopinionofsome,itformerlyobtainedtheappellationofBellositum。
  Thistowniswateredbytworivers,theCherwellandtheIsis,vulgarlycalledtheOuse;andthoughthesestreamsjoininthesamechannel,yettheIsisrunsmoreentireandwithmorerapiditytowardsthesouth,retainingitsnametillitmeetstheThame,whichitseemslongtohavesought,atWallingford;thence,calledbythecompoundnameofThames,itflowstheprinceofallBritishrivers,ofwhomwemayjustlysay,astheancientsdidoftheEuphrates,thatitbothsowsandwatersEngland。
  ThecollegesinthisfamousUniversityareasfollows:-
  InthereignofHenryIII。,WalterMerton,BishopofRochester,removedthecollegehehadfoundedinSurrey,1274,toOxford,enrichedit,andnameditMertonCollege;andsoonafter,William,ArchdeaconofDurham,restored,withadditions,thatbuildingofAlfred’snowcalledUniversityCollege;inthereignofEdwardI。,JohnBaliol,KingofScotland,or,assomewillhaveit,hisparents,foundedBaliolCollege;inthereignofEdwardII。,WalterStapleton,BishopofExeter,foundedExeterCollegeandHartHall;
  and,inimitationofhim,theKing,King’sCollege,commonlycalledOriel,andSt。Mary’sHall;next,Philippa,wifeofEdwardIII。,builtQueen’sCollege;andSimonIslip,ArchbishopofCanterbury,CanterburyCollege;WilliamWykeham,BishopofWinchester,raisedthatmagnificentstructurecalledNewCollege;MagdalenCollegewasbuiltbyWilliamWainflete,BishopofWinchester,anobleedifice,finelysituatedanddelightfulforitswalks;atthesametime,Humphrey,DukeofGloucester,thatgreatencourageroflearning,builttheDivinitySchoolverysplendidly,andoveritalibrary,towhichhegaveanhundredandtwenty-nineverychoicebooks,purchasedatagreatpricefromItaly,butthepublichaslongsincebeenrobbedoftheuseofthembytheavariceofparticulars:
  LincolnCollege;AllSouls’College;St。Bernard’sCollege;Brazen-
  NoseCollege,foundedbyWilliamSmith,BishopofLincoln,inthereignofHenryVII。;itsrevenueswereaugmentedbyAlexanderNowel,DeanofSt。Paul’s,London;uponthegateofthiscollegeisfixedanoseofbrass;CorpusChristiCollege,builtbyRichardFox,BishopofWinchester——underhispictureintheCollegechapelarelinesimportingthatitistheexactrepresentationofhispersonanddress。
  Christ’sChurch,thelargestandmostelegantofthemall,wasbegunonthegroundofSt。Frideswide’sMonastery,byThomasWolsey,CardinalofYork,towhichHenryVIII。joinedCanterburyCollege,settledgreatrevenuesuponit,andnameditChrist’sChurch;thesamegreatprince,outofhisowntreasury,tothedignityofthetownandornamentoftheUniversity,madetheoneabishoprie,andinstitutedprofessorshipsintheother。
  JesusCollege,builtbyHughPrice,DoctorofLaws。
  Thatfineedifice,thePublicSchools,wasentirelyraisedbyQueenMary,andadornedwithvariousinscriptions。
  Thusfarofthecollegesandhalls,whichforthebeautyoftheirbuildings,theirrichendowments,andcopiouslibraries,excelalltheacademiesintheChristianworld。Weshalladdalittleoftheacademiesthemselves,andthosethatinhabitthem。
  Thesestudentsleadalifealmostmonastic;forasthemonkshadnothingintheworldtodobutwhentheyhadsaidtheirprayersatstatedhourstoemploythemselvesininstructivestudies,nomorehavethese。Theyaredividedintothreetables:thefirstiscalledtheFellows’table,towhichareadmittedearls,barons,gentlemen,doctors,andMastersofArts,butveryfewofthelatter——
  thisismoreplentifullyandexpensivelyservedthantheothers;
  thesecondisforMastersofArts,Bachelors,somegentlemen,andeminentcitizens;thethirdforpeopleoflowcondition。Whiletherestareatdinnerorsupperinagreathall,wheretheyareallassembled,oneofthestudentsreadsaloudtheBible,whichisplacedonadeskinthemiddleofthehall,andthisofficeeveryoneofthemtakesuponhimselfinhisturn。Assoonasgraceissaidaftereachmeal,everyoneisatlibertyeithertoretiretohisownchambersortowalkintheCollegegarden,therebeingnonethathasnotadelightfulone。TheirhabitisalmostthesameasthatoftheJesuits,theirgownsreachingdowntotheirankles,sometimeslinedwithfur;theywearsquarecaps。Thedoctors,MastersofArts,andprofessors,haveanotherkindofgownthatdistinguishesthem。EverystudentofanyconsiderablestandinghasakeytotheCollegelibrary,fornocollegeiswithoutone。
  Inanout-partofthetownaretheremainsofaprettylargefortification,butquiteinruins。Wewereentertainedatsupperwithanexcellentconcert,composedofavarietyofinstruments。
  ThenextdaywewentasfarastheRoyalPalaceofWoodstock,whereKingEthelredformerlyheldaParliament,andenactedcertainlaws。
  Thispalace,aboundinginmagnificence,wasbuiltbyHenryI。,towhichhejoinedaverylargepark,enclosedwithawall;accordingtoJohnRosse,thefirstparkinEngland。InthisverypalacethepresentreigningQueenElizabeth,beforeshewasconfinedtotheTower,waskeptprisonerbyhersisterMary。Whileshewasdetainedhere,intheutmostperilofherlife,shewrotewithapieceofcharcoalthefollowingverse,composedbyherself,uponawindowshutter:-
  "OFortune!howthyrestlesswaveringstateHathfraughtwithcaresmytroubledwit!
  WitnessthispresentprisonwhitherfateHathborneme,andthejoysIquit。
  ThoucausedesttheguiltytobeloosedFrombandswherewithareinnocentsenclosed;
  Causingtheguiltlesstobestraitreserved,Andfreeingthosethatdeathhadwelldeserved:
  Butbyherenvycanbenothingwrought,SoGodsendtomyfoesalltheyhavethought。
  A。D。,M。D。L。V。"
  "Elizabeth,Prisoner。
  Notfarfromthispalacearetobeseen,nearaspringofthebrightestwater,theruinsofthehabitationofRosamondClifford,whoseexquisitebeautysoentirelycaptivatedtheheartofKingHenryII。thathelostthethoughtofallotherwomen;sheissaidtohavebeenpoisonedatlastbytheQueen。Allthatremainsofhertombofstone,thelettersofwhicharealmostwornout,isthefollowing:-
  "……Adorent,UtquetibideturrequiesRosamundaprecamur。"
  Therhymingepitaphfollowingwasprobablytheperformanceofsomemonk:-
  "HicjacetintumbaRosamundinonRosamunda,Nonredoletsedolet,quaeredoleresolet。"
  ReturningfromhencetoOxford,afterdinnerweproceededonourjourney,andpassedthroughEwhelme,aroyalpalace,inwhichsomealms-peoplearesupportedbyanallowancefromtheCrown。
  Nettlebed,avillage。
  WewentthroughthelittletownofHenley;fromhencetheChilternHillsbearnorthinacontinuedridge,anddividethecountiesofOxfordandBuckingham。
  WepassedMaidenhead。
  Windsor,aroyalcastle,supposedtohavebeenbegunbyKingArthur,itsbuildingsmuchincreasedbyEdwardIII。Thesituationisentirelyworthyofbeingaroyalresidence,amorebeautifulbeingscarcetobefound;for,fromthebrowofagentlerising,itenjoystheprospectofanevenandgreencountry;itsfrontcommandsavalleyextendedeveryway,andchequeredwitharablelandsandpasturage,clothedupanddownwithgroves,andwateredbythatgentlestofrivers,theThames;behindriseseveralhills,butneithersteepnorveryhigh,crownedwithwoods,andseemingdesignedbyNatureherselfforthepurposeofhunting。
  TheKingsofEngland,invitedbythedeliciousnessoftheplace,veryoftenretirehither;andherewasborntheconquerorofFrance,thegloriousKingEdwardIII。,whobuiltthecastlenewfromtheground,andthoroughlyfortifieditwithtrenches,andtowersofsquarestone,and,havingsoonaftersubduedinbattleJohn,KingofFrance,andDavid,KingofScotland,hedetainedthembothprisonershereatthesametime。Thiscastle,besidesbeingtheRoyalPalace,andhavingsomemagnificenttombsoftheKingsofEngland,isfamousfortheceremoniesbelongingtotheKnightsoftheGarter。ThisOrderwasinstitutedbyEdwardIII。,thesamewhotriumphedsoillustriouslyoverJohn,KingofFrance。TheKnightsoftheGarterarestrictlychosenfortheirmilitaryvirtues,andantiquityoffamily;theyareboundbysolemnoathandvowtomutualandperpetualfriendshipamongthemselves,andtothenotavoidinganydangerwhatever,orevendeathitself,tosupport,bytheirjointendeavours,thehonouroftheSociety;theyarestyledCompanionsoftheGarter,fromtheirwearingbelowtheleftkneeapurplegarter,inscribedinlettersofgoldwith"HONISOITQUIMALYPENSE,"I。E。,"Eviltohimthatevilthinks。"Thistheywearupontheleftleg,inmemoryofonewhich,happeningtountie,wasletfallbyagreatlady,passionatelybelovedbyEdward,whileshewasdancing,andwasimmediatelysnatchedupbytheKing,who,todohonourtothelady,notoutofanytriflinggallantry,butwithamostseriousandhonourablepurpose,dedicatedittothelegsofthemostdistinguishednobility。TheceremoniesofthisSocietyarecelebratedeveryyearatWindsoronSt。George’sDay,thetutelarsaintoftheOrder,theKingpresiding;andthecustomisthattheKnightsCompanionsshouldhanguptheirhelmetandshield,withtheirarmsblazonedonit,insomeconspicuouspartofthechurch。
  TherearethreeprincipalandverylargecourtsinWindsorCastle,whichgivegreatpleasuretothebeholders:thefirstisenclosedwithmostelegantbuildingsofwhitestone,flat-roofed,andcoveredwithlead;heretheKnightsoftheGarterarelodged;inthemiddleisadetachedhouse,remarkableforitshightower,whichthegovernorinhabits。Inthisisthepublickitchen,wellfurnishedwithproperutensils,besidesaspaciousdining-room,whereallthepoorKnightseatatthesametable,forintothisSocietyoftheGarter,theKingandSovereignelects,athisownchoice,certainpersons,whomustbegentlemenofthreedescents,andsuchas,fortheirageandthestraitnessoftheirfortunes,arefitterforsayingtheirprayersthanfortheserviceofwar;toeachofthemisassignedapensionofeighteenpoundsperannumandclothes。Thechiefinstitutionofsomagnificentafoundationis,thattheyshouldsaytheirdailyprayerstoGodfortheKing’ssafety,andthehappyadministrationforthekingdom,towhichpurposetheyattendtheservice,meetingtwiceeverydayatchapel。Theleftsideofthiscourtisornamentedbyamostmagnificentchapelofonehundredandthirty-fourpacesinlength,andsixteeninbreadth;inthisareeighteenseatsfittedupinthetimeofEdwardIII。foranequalnumberofKnights:thisvenerablebuildingisdecoratedwiththenoblemonumentsofEdwardIV。,HenryVI。,andVIII。,andofhiswifeQueenJane。Itreceivesfromroyalliberalitytheannualincomeoftwothousandpounds,andthatstillmuchincreasedbythemunificenceofEdwardIII。andHenryVII。ThegreatestprincesinChristendomhavetakenitforthehighesthonourtobeadmittedintotheOrderoftheGarter;andsinceitsfirstinstitutionabouttwentykings,besidesthoseofEngland,whoarethesovereignsofit,nottomentiondukesandpersonsofthegreatestfigure,havebeenofit。Itconsistsoftwenty-sixCompanions。
  Intheinwardchoirofthechapelarehungupsixteencoats-of-arms,swords,andbanners;amongwhicharethoseofCharlesV。andRodolphusII。,Emperors;ofPhilipofSpain;HenryIII。ofFrance;
  FredericII。ofDenmark,&c。;ofCasimir,CountPalatineoftheRhine;andotherChristianprinceswhohavebeenchosenintothisOrder。
  Inthebackchoir,oradditionalchapel,areshownpreparationsmadebyCardinalWolsey,whowasafterwardscapitallypunished,{12}forhisowntomb;consistingofeightlargebrazencolumnsplacedroundit,andnearerthetombfourothersintheshapeofcandlesticks;
  thetombitselfisofwhiteandblackmarble;allwhicharereserved,accordingtoreport,forthefuneralofQueenElizabeth;
  theexpensesalreadymadeforthatpurposeareestimatedatupwardsof60,000pounds。Inthesamechapelisthesurcoat{13}ofEdwardIII。,andthetombofEdwardFynes,EarlofLincoln,BaronClintonandSay,KnightoftheMostNobleOrderoftheGarter,andformerlyLordHighAdmiralofEngland。
  ThesecondcourtofWindsorCastlestandsuponhigherground,andisenclosedwithwallsofgreatstrength,andbeautifiedwithfinebuildingsandatower;itwasanancientcastle,ofwhicholdannalsspeakinthismanner:KingEdward,A。D。1359,begananewbuildinginthatpartoftheCastleofWindsorwherehewasborn;forwhichreasonhetookcareitshouldbedecoratedwithlargerandfineredificesthantherest。InthispartwerekeptprisonersJohn,KingofFrance,andDavid,KingofScots,overwhomEdwardtriumphedatoneandthesametime:itwasbytheiradvice,struckwiththeadvantageofitssituation,andwiththesumspaidfortheirransom,thatbydegreesthiscastlestretchedtosuchmagnificence,astoappearnolongerafortress,butatownofproperextent,andinexpugnabletoanyhumanforce。ThisparticularpartofthecastlewasbuiltatthesoleexpenseoftheKingofScotland,exceptonetower,which,fromitshavingbeenerectedbytheBishopofWinchester,PrelateoftheOrder,iscalledWinchesterTower;{14}
  thereareahundredstepstoit,soingeniouslycontrivedthathorsescaneasilyascendthem;itisahundredandfiftypacesincircuit;withinitarepreservedallmannerofarmsnecessaryforthedefenceoftheplace。
  Thethirdcourtismuchthelargestofany,builtattheexpenseofthecaptiveKingofFrance;asitstandshigher,soitgreatlyexcelsthetwoformerinsplendourandelegance;ithasonehundredandforty-eightpacesinlength,andninety-seveninbreadth;inthemiddleofitisafountainofveryclearwater,broughtunderground,atanexcessiveexpense,fromthedistanceoffourmiles。
  Towardstheeastaremagnificentapartmentsdestinedfortheroyalhousehold;towardsthewestisatennis-courtfortheamusementoftheCourt;onthenorthsidearetheroyalapartments,consistingofmagnificentchambers,halls,andbathing-rooms,{15}andaprivatechapel,theroofofwhichisembellishedwithgoldenrosesandFLEURS-DE-LIS:inthis,too,isthatverylargebanqueting-room,seventy-eightpaceslong,andthirtywide,inwhichtheKnightsoftheGarterannuallycelebratethememoryoftheirtutelarsaint,St。
  George,withasolemnandmostpompousservice。
  Fromhencerunsawalkofincrediblebeauty,threehundredandeightypacesinlength,setroundoneverysidewithsupportersofwood,whichsustainabalcony,fromwhencethenobilityandpersonsofdistinctioncantakethepleasureofseeinghuntingandhawkinginalawnofsufficientspace;forthefieldsandmeadows,cladwithvarietyofplantsandflowers,swellgraduallyintohillsofperpetualverdurequiteuptothecastle,andatbottomstretchoutinanextendedplain,thatstrikesthebeholderswithdelight。
  Besideswhathasbeenalreadymentioned,thereareworthyofnoticeheretwobathing-rooms,ceiledandwainscotedwithlooking-glass;
  thechamberinwhichHenryVI。wasborn;QueenElizabeth’sbedchamber,whereisatableofredmarblewithwhitestreaks;agalleryeverywhereornamentedwithemblemsandfigures;achamberinwhicharetheroyalbedsofHenryVII。andhisQueen,ofEdwardVI。,ofHenryVIII。,andofAnneBoleyn,allofthemelevenfeetsquare,andcoveredwithquiltsshiningwithgoldandsilver;QueenElizabeth’sbed,withcuriouscoveringsofembroidery,butnotquitesolongorlargeastheothers;apieceoftapestry,inwhichisrepresentedClovis,KingofFrance,withanangelpresentingtohimtheFLEURS-DE-LIStobeborneinhisarms;forbeforehistimetheKingsofFranceborethreetoadsintheirshield,insteadofwhichtheyafterwardsplacedthreeFLEURS-DE-LISonabluefield;thisantiquetapestryissaidtohavebeentakenfromaKingofFrance,whiletheEnglishweremastersthere。Wewereshownhere,amongotherthings,thehornofaunicorn,ofaboveeightspansandahalfinlength,valuedatabove10,000pounds;thebirdofparadise,threespanslong,threefingersbroad,havingabluebillofthelengthofhalfaninch,theupperpartofitsheadyellow,thenetherpartofa……colour;{16}alittlelowerfromeithersideofitsthroatstickoutsomereddishfeathers,aswellasfromitsbackandtherestofitsbody;itswings,ofayellowcolour,aretwiceaslongasthebirditself;fromitsbackgrowoutlengthwaystwofibresornerves,biggerattheirends,butlikeaprettystrongthread,ofaleadencolour,incliningtoblack,withwhich,asithasnotfeet,itissaidtofastenitselftotreeswhenitwantstorest;acushionmostcuriouslywroughtbyQueenElizabeth’sownhands。
  IntheprecinctsofWindsor,ontheothersidetheThames,bothwhosebanksarejoinedbyabridgeofwood,isEton,awell-builtCollege,andfamousschoolforpoliteletters,foundedbyHenryVI。;
  where,besidesamaster,eightfellowsandchanters,sixtyboysaremaintainedgratis。Theyaretaughtgrammar,andremainintheschooltill,upontrialmadeoftheirgeniusandprogressinstudy,theyaresenttotheUniversityofCambridge。
  Aswewerereturningtoourinn,wehappenedtomeetsomecountrypeopleCELEBRATINGTHEIRHARVESTHOME;theirlastloadofcorntheycrownwithflowers,havingbesidesanimagerichlydressed,bywhich,perhaps,theywouldsignifyCeres;thistheykeepmovingabout,whilemenandwomen,menandmaidservants,ridingthroughthestreetsinthecart,shoutasloudastheycantilltheyarriveatthebarn。Thefarmersheredonotbinduptheircorninsheaves,astheydowithus,butdirectlyastheyhavereapedormowedit,putitintocarts,andconveyitintotheirbarns。
  WewentthroughthetownofStaines。
  HamptonCourt,aRoyalPalace,magnificentlybuiltwithbrickbyCardinalWolseyinostentationofhiswealth,whereheenclosedfiveveryamplecourts,consistingofnobleedificesinverybeautifulwork。OverthegateinthesecondareaistheQueen’sdevice,agoldenRose,withthismotto,"DieuetmonDroit:"ontheinwardsideofthisgatearetheeffigiesofthetwelveRomanEmperorsinplaster。Thechiefareaispavedwithsquarestone;initscentreisafountainthatthrowsupwater,coveredwithagiltcrown,onthetopofwhichisastatueofJustice,supportedbycolumnsofblackandwhitemarble。Thechapelofthispalaceismostsplendid,inwhichtheQueen’sclosetisquitetransparent,havingitswindowofcrystal。Wewereledintotwochambers,calledthepresence,orchambersofaudience,whichshonewithtapestryofgoldandsilverandsilkofdifferentcolours:underthecanopyofstatearethesewordsembroideredinpearl,"VIVATHENRICUSOCTAVUS。"Hereisbesidesasmallchapelrichlyhungwithtapestry,wheretheQueenperformsherdevotions。Inherbedchamberthebedwascoveredwithverycostlycoverlidsofsilk:atnogreatdistancefromthisroomwewereshownabed,thetesterofwhichwasworkedbyAnneBoleyn,andpresentedbyhertoherhusbandHenryVIII。Alltheotherrooms,beingverynumerous,areadornedwithtapestryofgold,silver,andvelvet,insomeofwhichwerewovenhistorypieces;inothers,TurkishandAmericandresses,allextremelynatural。
  Inthehallarethesecuriosities:
  Averyclearlooking-glass,ornamentedwithcolumnsandlittleimagesofalabaster;aportraitofEdwardVI。,brothertoQueenElizabeth;thetrueportraitofLucretia;apictureofthebattleofPavia;thehistoryofChrist’spassion,carvedinmother-of-pearl;
  theportraitsofMaryQueenofScots,whowasbeheaded,andherdaughter;{17}thepictureofFerdinand,PrinceofSpain,andofPhiliphisson;thatofHenryVIII。——underitwasplacedtheBiblecuriouslywrittenuponparchment;anartificialsphere;severalmusicalinstruments;inthetapestryarerepresentednegroesridinguponelephants。ThebedinwhichEdwardVI。issaidtohavebeenborn,andwherehismotherJaneSeymourdiedinchild-bed。Inonechamberwereseveralexcessivelyrichtapestries,whicharehungupwhentheQueengivesaudiencetoforeignambassadors;therewerenumbersofcushionsornamentedwithgoldandsilver;manycounterpanesandcoverlidsofbedslinedwithermine:inshort,allthewallsofthepalaceshinewithgoldandsilver。HereisbesidesacertaincabinetcalledParadise,wherebesidesthateverythingglitterssowithsilver,gold,andjewels,astodazzleone’seyes,thereisamusicalinstrumentmadeallofglass,exceptthestrings。
  Afterwardswewereledintothegardens,whicharemostpleasant;
  herewesawrosemarysoplantedandnailedtothewallsastocoverthementirely,whichisamethodexceedingcommoninEngland。
  Kingston,amarkettown。
  Nonesuch,aroyalretreat,inaplaceformerlycalledCuddington,averyhealthfulsituation,chosenbyKingHenryVIII。forhispleasureandretirement,andbuiltbyhimwithanexcessofmagnificenceandelegance,eventoostentation:onewouldimagineeverythingthatarchitecturecanperformtohavebeenemployedinthisonework。Thereareeverywheresomanystatuesthatseemtobreathesomanymiraclesofconsummateart,somanycaststhatrivaleventheperfectionofRomanantiquity,thatitmaywellclaimandjustifyitsnameofNonesuch,beingwithoutanequal;orasthepostsung-
  "This,whichnoequalhasinartorfame,BritonsdeservedlydoNONESUCHname。"
  Thepalaceitselfissoencompassedwithparksfullofdeer,deliciousgardens,grovesornamentedwithtrellis-work,cabinetsofverdure,andwalkssoembrownedbytrees,thatitseemstobeaplacepitcheduponbyPleasureherself,todwellinalongwithHealth。
  Inthepleasureandartificialgardensaremanycolumnsandpyramidsofmarble,twofountainsthatspoutwateroneroundtheotherlikeapyramid,uponwhichareperchedsmallbirdsthatstreamwateroutoftheirbills。IntheGroveofDianaisaveryagreeablefountain,withActaeonturnedintoastag,ashewassprinkledbythegoddessandhernymphs,withinscriptions。
  Thereisbesidesanotherpyramidofmarblefullofconcealedpipes,whichspurtuponallwhocomewithintheirreach。
  ReturnedfromhencetoLondon。
  ASHORTDESCRIPTIONOFENGLAND。
  Britain,consistingofthetwokingdomsofEnglandandScotland,isthelargestislandintheworld,encompassedbytheocean,theGermanandFrenchseas。ThelargestandsouthernpartofitisEngland,sonamedfromtheAngli,whoquittingthelittleterritoryyetcalledAngelinthekingdomofDenmark,tookpossessionhere。
  ItisgovernedbyitsownKing,whoownsnosuperiorbutGod。Itisdividedintothirty-ninecounties,towhichthirteeninWaleswereaddedbyHenryVIII。,thefirstwhodistributedthatprincipalityintocounties;overeachofthese,intimesofdanger,alordlieutenant,nominatedbytheKing,presideswithanunlimitedpower。
  Everyyearsomegentleman,aninhabitantoftheplace,isappointedsheriff;hisofficeistocollectthepublicmoneys,toraisefines,ortomakeseizures,andaccountforittotheTreasury;toattenduponthejudges,andputtheirsentenceinexecution;toempanelthejury,whosituponfacts,andreturntheirverdicttothejudges(whoinEnglandareonlysuchofthelaw,andnotofthefact);toconveythecondemnedtoexecution,andtodertermineinlessercauses,forthegreateraretriedbythejudges,formerlycalledtravellingjudgesofassize;thesegotheircircuitsthroughthecountiestwiceeveryyeartohearcauses,andpronouncesentenceuponprisoners。
  Astoecclesiasticaljurisdiction,afterthePopeshadassignedachurchandparishtoeverypriest,Honorius,ArchbishopofCanterbury,abouttheyear636,begantodivideEnglandinthesamemannerintoparishes:asithastwoProvinces,soithastwoArchbishops:theoneofCanterbury,PrimateandMetropolitanofallEngland;theotherofYork:subjecttothesearetwenty-fivebishops,viz。,twenty-twotoCanterbury,theremainingthreetoYork。
  Thesoilisfruitful,andaboundswithcattle,whichinclinestheinhabitantsrathertofeedingthanploughing,sothatnearathirdpartofthelandisleftuncultivatedforgrazing。Theclimateismosttemperateatalltimes,andtheairneverheavy,consequentlymaladiesarescarcer,andlessphysicisusedtherethananywhereelse。Therearebutfewrivers;thoughthesoilisproductive,itbearsnowine;butthatwantissuppliedfromabroadbythebestkinds,asofOrleans,Gascon,Rhenish,andSpanish。Thegeneraldrinkisbeer,whichispreparedfrombarley,andisexcellentlywelltasted,butstrong,andwhatsoonfuddles。Therearemanyhillswithoutonetree,oranyspring,whichproduceaveryshortandtendergrass,andsupplyplentyoffoodtosheep;uponthesewandernumerousflocks,extremelywhite,andwhetherfromthetemperatureoftheair,orgoodnessoftheearth,bearingsofterandfinerfleecesthanthoseofanyothercountry:thisisthetrueGoldenFleece,inwhichconsistthechiefrichesoftheinhabitants,greatsumsofmoneybeingbroughtintotheislandbymerchants,chieflyforthatarticleoftrade。Thedogshereareparticularlygood。Ithasminesofgold,silver,andtin(ofwhichallmanneroftableutensilsaremade,inbrightnessequaltosilver,andusedalloverEurope),oflead,andofiron,butnotmuchofthelatter。Thehorsesaresmallbutswift。Glasshousesareinplentyhere。
  OFTHEMANNERSOFTHEENGLISH。
  TheEnglishareserious,liketheGermans;loversofshow,likingtobefollowedwherevertheygobywholetroopsofservants,whoweartheirmasters’armsinsilver,fastenedtotheirleftarms,aridiculetheydeservedlylieunder。Theyexcelindancingandmusic,fortheyareactiveandlively,thoughofathickermakethantheFrench;theycuttheirhaircloseonthemiddleofthehead,lettingitgrowoneitherside;theyaregoodsailors,andbetterpirates,cunning,treacherousandthievish;abovethreehundredaresaidtobehangedannuallyatLondon;beheadingwiththemislessinfamousthanhanging;theygivethewallastheplaceofhonour;
  hawkingisthegeneralsportofthegentry;theyaremorepoliteineatingthantheFrench,devouringlessbread,butmoremeat,whichtheyroastinperfection;theyputagreatdealofsugarintheirdrink;theirbedsarecoveredwithtapestry,eventhoseoffarmers;
  theyareoftenmolestedwiththescurvy,saidtohavefirstcreptintoEnglandwiththeNormanConquest;theirhousesarecommonlyoftwostoreys,exceptinLondon,wheretheyareofthreeandfour,thoughbutseldomoffour;theyarebuiltofwood,thoseoftherichersortwithbricks;theirroofsarelow,and,wheretheownerhasmoney,coveredwithlead。
  Theyarepowerfulinthefield,successfulagainsttheirenemies,impatientofanythinglikeslavery;vastlyfondofgreatnoisesthatfilltheear,suchasthefiringofcannon,drums,andtheringingofbells,sothatitiscommonforanumberofthem,thathavegotaglassintheirheads,togoupintothebelfry,andringthebellsforhourstogetherforthesakeofexercise。Iftheyseeaforeignerverywellmade,orparticularlyhandsome,theywillsay,"ItisapityheisnotanEnglishman!"
  THEILLUSTRIOUSFAMILIESOFENGLAND
  ThomasHoward,DukeofNorfolk,hereditaryMarshalofEngland:theduchyisextinctforrebellion,thelastdukebeingbeheaded。
  Grey,DukeofSuffolk,attaintedunderQueenMary。
  PhilipHoward,EarlofArundelinhismother’sright,andofSurreybyhisfather,sonoftheabovementionedDukeofNorfolk,hehimselfcondemnedforhightreason,andhistitlesforfeited。
  EdwardVere,EarlofOxford,hereditaryChamberlainofEngland。
  Percy,EarlofNorthumberland,descendedfromtheDukesofBrabant。
  CharlesNevill,EarlofWestmoreland,banishedintoHolland,anddeprivedofhisfortunesanddignitiesforrebellion。
  Talbot,EarlofShrewsbury。
  Grey,EarlofKent,hasbutasmallestate。
  Stanley,EarlofDerby,andKingofMan。
  Manners,EarlofRutland。
  Somerset,EarlofWorcester,descendedfromabastardoftheSomersetfamily,whichitselfisoftheroyalfamilyofthePlantagenets。
  Clifford,EarlofCumberland。
  Ratcliff,EarlofSussex。
  Hastings,EarlofHuntingdon,ofthelineofYork,bythemother’sside。
  Bourchier,EarlofBath。
  AmbroseSutton,aliasDudley,EarlofWarwick,diedafewyearssince,childless。
  Wriothesly,EarlofSouthampton。
  Russell,EarlofBedford。
  Herbert,EarlofPembroke。
  EdwardSeymour,EarlofHertford,sonoftheDukeofSomerset,whowasbeheadedinthereignofEdwardVI。
  RobertSutton,orDudley,EarlofLeicester,brotheroftheEarlofWarwick,diedafewyearsago。
  Robertd’Evereux,EarlofEssex,andofEweinNormandy,createdhereditaryMarshalofEnglandin1598。
  CharlesHoward,oftheNorfolkfamily,createdEarlofNottingham,1597,LordHighAdmiralofEngland,andPrivyCounsellor。
  Fynes,EarlofLincoln。
  Brown,ViscountMontacute。
  Howard,oftheNorfolkfamily,ViscountBindon。
  Nevill,BaronAbergavenny;thisbaronyiscontroverted。
  Touchet,BaronAudley。
  Zouch,BaronZouch。
  PeregrineBertie,BaronWilloughbyofEresbyandBrooke,GovernorofBerwick。
  Berkley,BaronBerkley,oftheancientfamilyoftheKingsofDenmark。
  Parker,BaronMorley。
  Dacre,BaronDacreofGyllesland:thisbaronyisvacant。
  Dacre,BaronDacreoftheSouth:hediedfouryearssince,andthebaronydevolvedtohisdaughter。
  Brook,BaronCobham,WardenoftheCinquePorts。
  Stafford,BaronStafford,reducedtowant;heisheirtothefamilyoftheDukesofBuckingham,whowerehereditaryConstablesofEngland。
  Gray,BaronGrayofWilton。
  Scroop,BaronScroopofBoulton。
  Sutton,BaronDudley。
  Stourton,BaronStourton。
  Nevill,BaronLatimer,diedsomeyearssincewithoutheirsmale;thetitlecontroverted。
  Lumley,BaronLumley。
  Blunt,BaronMontjoy。
  Ogle,BaronOgle。
  Darcy,BaronDarcy。
  Parker,BaronMontegle,sonandheirofBaronMorley;hehasthisbaronyinrightofhismother,ofthefamilyofStanley。
  Sandys,BaronSandys。
  Vaux,BaronVaux。
  Windsor,BaronWindsor。
  Wentworth,BaronWentworth。
  Borough,BaronBorough,reducedtowant。
  BaronMordaunt。BaronEure。
  BaronRich。BaronSheffield。
  BaronNorth,PrivyCounsellor,andTreasureroftheHousehold。
  BaronHunsdon,PrivyCounsellor,andLordChamberlain。
  Sackville,BaronBuckhurst,PrivyCounsellor。
  ThomasCecil,BaronBurleigh,sonoftheTreasurer。
  Cecil,LordRoos,grandsonoftheTreasurer,yetachild:heholdsthebaronyinrightofhismother,daughtertotheEarlofRutland。
  HowardofMaltravers,sonoftheEarlofArundel,notyetrestoredinblood。
  BaronCheyny。
  BaronCromwell。BaronWharton。
  BaronWilloughbyofParham。
  BaronPagett,inexile,attainted。
  BaronChandois。BaronSt。John。
  BaronDelaware:hisancestorstooktheKingofFranceprisoner。
  BaronCompton,hassquanderedalmostallhissubstance。
  BaronNorris。
  ThomasHoward,secondsonoftheDukeofNorfolk,BaronAudleyofSaffronwalden,inhismother’sright。
  William,thirdsonoftheDukeofNorfolk,isneitherabaron,noryetrestoredinblood。
  Thusfarofnoblefamilies。
  WesetoutfromLondoninaboat,andfelldowntheriver,leavingGreenwich,whichwehavespokenofbefore,ontherighthand。
  Barking,atowninsightontheleft。
  Gravesend,asmalltown,famousfortheconvenienceofitsport;thelargestDutchshipsusuallycallhere。Asweweretoproceedfartherfromhencebywater,wetookourlastleavehereofthenobleBohemianDavidStrziela,andhistutorTobiasSalander,ourconstantfellow-travellersthroughFranceandEngland,theydesigningtoreturnhomethroughHolland,weonasecondtourintoFrance;butitpleasedHeaventoputastoptotheirdesign,fortheworthyStrzielawasseizedwithadiarrhoeaafewdaysbeforeourdeparture,and,asweafterwardslearnedbylettersfromSalander,diedinafewdaysofaviolentfeverinLondon。
  Queenborough:weleftthecastleonourright;alittlefartherwesawthefishingofoystersoutofthesea,whicharenowhereingreaterplentyorperfection;witnessOrteliusinhisEpitome,&c。
  Whitstable;herewewentashore。
  Canterbury;wecametoitonfoot;thisistheseatoftheArchbishop,PrimateofallEngland,averyancienttown,and,withoutdoubt,ofnoteinthetimeoftheRomans。
  Herearetwomonasteriesalmostcontiguous,namelyofChristandSt。
  Augustine,bothofthemoncefilledwithBenedictineMonks:theformerwasafterwardsdedicatedtoSt。ThomasaBecket,thenameofChristbeingobliterated;itstandsalmostinthemiddleofthetown,andwithsomuchmajestyliftsitself,anditstwotowers,toastupendousheight,that,asErasmussays,itstrikeseventhosewhoonlyseeitatadistancewithawe。
  Inthechoir,whichisshutupwithironrails,arethefollowingmonuments:-
  KingHenryIV。,withhiswifeJoanofNavarre,ofwhitemarble。
  NicholasWootton,PrivyCounsellortoHenryVIII。,EdwardVI。,Mary,andElizabeth,KingsandQueensofEngland。
  OfPrinceEdward,DukeofAquitaineandCornwall,andEarlofChester。
  ReginaldPole,withthisinscription:
  "TheremainsofReginaldPole,CardinalandArchbishopofCanterbury。"
  CardinalChatillon。
  Wewerethenshownthechairinwhichthebishopsareplacedwhentheyareinstalled。Inthevestibuleofthechurch,onthesouthside,standthestatuesofthreemenarmed,cutinstone,whoslewThomasaBecket,ArchbishopofCanterbury,madeasaintforthismartyrdom;theirnamesareadjoined-
  Tusci,Fusci,Berri。{18}
  Beingtiredwithwalking,werefreshedourselvesherewithamouthfulofbreadandsomeale,andimmediatelymountedpost-horses,andarrivedabouttwoorthreeo’clockinthemorningatDover。Inourwaytoit,whichwasroughanddangerousenough,thefollowingaccidenthappenedtous:ourguide,orpostillion,ayouth,wasbeforewithtwoofourcompany,aboutthedistanceofamusketshot;
  we,bynotfollowingquickenough,hadlostsightofourfriends;wecameafterwardstowheretheroaddivided;ontherightitwasdown-
  hillandmarshy,ontheleftwasasmallhill:whilstwestoppedhereindoubt,andconsultedwhichoftheroadsweshouldtake,wesawallonasuddenonourrighthandsomehorsemen,theirstature,dress,andhorsesexactlyresemblingthoseofourfriends;gladofhavingfoundthemagain,wedeterminedtosetonafterthem;butithappened,throughGod’smercy,thatthoughwecalledtothem,theydidnotanswerus,butkeptondownthemarshyroadatsucharate,thattheirhorses’feetstruckfireateverystretch,whichmadeus,withreason,begintosuspecttheywerethieves,havinghadwarningofsuch;orrather,thattheywerenocturnalspectres,who,aswewereafterwardstold,arefrequentlyseeninthoseplaces:therewerelikewiseagreatmanyJack-a-lanterns,sothatwewerequiteseizedwithhorrorandamazement!But,fortunatelyforus,ourguidesoonaftersoundedhishorn,andwe,followingthenoise,turneddowntheleft-handroad,andarrivedsafetoourcompanions;
  who,whenwehadaskedthemiftheyhadnotseenthehorsemenwhohadgonebyus,answered,notasoul。Ouropinions,accordingtocustom,werevariousuponthismatter;butwhateverthethingwas,wewere,withoutdoubt,inimminentdanger,fromwhichthatweescaped,thegloryistobeascribedtoGodalone。
  Dover,situatedamongcliffs(standingwheretheportitselfwasoriginally,asmaybegatheredfromanchorsandpartsofvesselsdugupthere),ismorefamousfortheconvenienceofitsport,whichindeedisnowmuchdecayed,anditspassagetoFrance,thanforeitheritseleganceorpopulousness:thispassage,themostusedandtheshortest,isofthirtymiles,which,withafavourablewind,mayberunoverinfiveorsixhours’time,asweourselvesexperienced;somereckonitonlyeighteentoCalais,andtoBoulognesixteenEnglishmiles,which,asOrteliussaysinhis"Theatrum,"
  arelongerthantheItalian。
  HerewasachurchdedicatedtoSt。MartinbyVictred,KingofKent,andahousebelongingtotheKnightsTemplars;ofeithertherearenownoremains。ItistheseatofasuffragantotheArchbishopofCanterbury,who,whentheArchbishopisemployeduponbusinessofmoreconsequence,managestheordinaryaffairs,butdoesnotinterferewiththearchiepiscopaljurisdiction。Uponahill,orratherrock,whichonitsrightsideisalmosteverywhereaprecipice,averyextensivecastlerisestoasurprisingheight,insizelikealittlecity,extremelywellfortified,andthick-setwithtowers,andseemstothreatentheseabeneath。MatthewPariscallsitthedoorandkeyofEngland;theordinarypeoplehavetakenintotheirheadsthatitwasbuiltbyJuliusCaesar;itislikelyitmightbytheRomans,fromthoseBritishbricksinthechapelwhichtheymadeuseofintheirfoundations。SeeCamden’s"Britannia。"
  Afterwehaddined,wetookleaveofEngland。
  FRAGMENTAREGALIA
  OR,OBSERVATIONSONTHELATEQUEENELIZABETH,HERTIMES,AND
  FAVOURITES。WRITTENBYSirRobertNaunton,MASTEROFTHECOURTOF
  WARDS。A。D。1641。
  Totakeherintheoriginal,shewasthedaughterofKingHenryVIII。byAnneBoleyn,thesecondofsixwiveswhichhehad,andoneofthemaidsofhonourtothedivorcedQueen,KatharineofAustria(or,asthenowstyled,InfantaofSpain),andfromthencetakentotheroyalbed。
  Thatshewasofamostnobleandroyalextractbyherfatherwillnotfallintoquestion,foronthatsidewasdisemboguedintoherveins,byaconfluencyofblood,theveryabstractofallthegreatesthousesinChristendom:andremarkableitis,consideringthatviolentdesertionoftheRoyalHouseoftheBritonsbytheintrusionoftheSaxons,andafterwardsbytheconquestoftheNormans,that,throughvicissitudeoftimes,andafteradiscontinuancealmostofathousandyears,thesceptreshouldfallagainandbebroughtbackintotheoldregallineandtruecurrentoftheBritishblood,inthepersonofherrenownedgrandfather,KingHenryVII。,togetherwithwhatsoevertheGerman,Norman,Burgundian,Castilian,andFrenchachievements,withtheirintermarriages,whicheighthundredyearshadacquired,couldaddofglorythereunto。
  Byhermothershewasofnosovereigndescent,yetnobleandveryancientinthefamilyofBoleyn;thoughsomeerroneouslybrandthemwithacitizen’sriseororiginal,whichwasyetbutofasecondbrother,who(asitwasdivineinthegreatnessandlustretocometohishouse)wassentintothecitytoacquirewealth,AD
  AEDIFICANDAMANTIQUAMDOMUM,untowhoseachievements(forhewasLordMayorofLondon)fellin,asitisaverred,boththebloodandinheritanceoftheeldestbrotherforwantofissuemales,bywhichaccumulationthehousewithinfewdescentsmounted,INCULMEN
  HONORIS,andwassuddenlydilatedinthebestfamiliesofEnglandandIreland:asHoward,Ormond,Sackville,andothers。
  Havingthustouched,andnowleavingherstirp,Icometoherperson,andhowshecametothecrownbythedeceaseofherbrotherandsister。
  UnderEdwardVI。shewashis,andoneofthedarlingsofFortune,for,besidestheconsiderationofblood,therewasbetweenthesetwoprincesaconcurrencyandsympathyoftheirnaturesandaffections,togetherwiththecelestialbond(confirmativereligion),whichmadethemone;fortheKingnevercalledherbyanyotherappellationbuthissweetestanddearestsister,andwasscarcehisownman,shebeingabsent;whichwasnotsobetweenhimandtheLadyMary。
  Underhersister{19}shefoundherconditionmuchaltered;foritwasresolved,andherdestinyhaddecreedit,fortosetherapprenticeintheschoolofaffliction,andtodrawherthroughthatordeal-fireoftrial,thebettertomouldandfashionhertoruleandsovereignty:whichfinished,Fortunecallingtomindthatthetimeofherservitudewasexpired,gaveupherindentures,andtherewithdeliveredintohercustodyasceptreastherewardofherpatience;whichwasaboutthetwenty-sixthofherage:atimeinwhich,asforherinternalsgrownripe,andseasonedbyadversity,intheexerciseofhervirtue;for,itseems,Fortunemeantnomorebuttoshowherapieceofvarietyandchangeablenessofhernature,buttoconducthertoherdestiny,I。E。,felicity。
  Shewasofpersontall,ofhairandcomplexionfair,andtherewithwellfavoured,buthigh-nosed;oflimbsandfeaturesneat;and,whichaddedtothelustreoftheseexternalgraces,ofastatelyandmajesticcomportment,participatinginthismoreofherfatherthanofhermother,whowasofaninferioralloy,plausible,or,astheFrenchhathit,moreDEBONAIREandaffable:virtueswhichmightwellsuitwithmajesty,andwhich,descendingashereditarytothedaughter,didrenderherofasweetertemper,andendearedhermoretotheloveandlikingofthepeople,whogaveherthenameandfameofamostgraciousandpopularprincess。
  Theatrocityofthefather’snaturewasrebatedinherbythemother’ssweeterinclinations;for(totake,andthatnomorethanthecharacteroutofhisownmouth)HENEVERSPAREDMANINHIS
  ANGER,NORWOMANINHISLUST。
  Ifwesearchfartherintoherintellectualsandabilities,thewheel-courseofhergovernmentdeciphersthemtotheadmirationofposterity;foritwasfullofmagnanimity,temperedwithjustice,piety,andpity,and,tospeaktruth,notedbutwithoneactofstain,ortaint,allherdeprivations,eitheroflifeorliberty,beinglegalandnecessitated。Shewaslearned,hersexandtimeconsidered,beyondcommonbelief;forlettersaboutthistime,orsomewhatbefore,didbutbegintobeofesteemandinfashion,theformeragesbeingovercastwiththemistsandfogsoftheRoman{20}
  ignorance;anditwasthemaximthatover-ruledtheforegoingtimes,thatIGNORANCEWASTHEMOTHEROFDEVOTION。Herwarswerealongtimemoreintheauxiliarypart,andassistanceofforeignprincesandstates,thanbyinvasionofany;tillcommonpolicyadvisedit,forasaferway,tostrikefirstabroad,thanathometoexpectthewar,inallwhichshewaseverfelicitousandvictorious。
  Thechangeandalterationofreligionupontheinstantofheraccessiontothecrown(thesmokeandfireofhersister’smartyrdomsscarcelyquenched)wasnoneofherleastremarkableactions;butthesupportandestablishmentthereof,withthemeansofherownsubsistenceamidstsopowerfulenemiesabroad,andthosemanydomesticpractices,were,methinks,worksofinspiration,andofnohumanprovidence,which,onhersister’sdeparture,shemostreligiouslyacknowledged——ascribingthegloryofherdeliverancetoGodabove;forshebeingthenatHatfield,andunderaguard,andtheParliamentsittingattheself-sametime,atthenewsoftheQueen’sdeath,andherownproclamationbythegeneralconsentoftheHouseandthepublicsufferanceofthepeople,fallingonherknees,afteragoodtimeofrespiration,sheutteredthisverseofthePsalm:
  "ADOMINOFACTUMESTISTUD,ETESTMIRABILEINOCULISNOSTRIS。"{21}
  Andthiswefindtothisdayonthestampofhergold,withthisonhersilver:
  "POSUIDEUMADJUTOREMMEUM。"{22}
  HerministersandinstrumentsofState,suchaswerePARTICIPES
  CURARUM,orboreagreatpartoftheburthen,wereMANY,andthoseMEMORABLE;buttheywereonlyFAVOURITES,andnotMINIONS;suchasactedmorebyHERprincelyrulesandjudgments,thanbytheirOWN
  willsandappetites;forwesawnoGaveston,Vere,orSpencer,tohaveswayedalone,duringforty-fouryears,whichwasawell-settledandadvisedmaxim;foritvaluedherthemore,itawedthemostsecure,ittookbestwiththepeople,anditstavedoffallemulations,whichareapttoriseandventinobloquiousacrimonyevenagainsttheprince,wherethereisONEONLYadmittedintohighadministrations。