CHAPTERXXIV
CerrigyDrudion—TheLandlady—DoctorJones—CollGwynfa—TheItalian—MenofComo—Disappointment—Weather—Glasses—
Southey。
THEinnatCerrigyDrudionwascalledtheLion—whetherthewhite,black,redorgreenLion,Idonotknow,thoughIamcertainthatitwasalionofsomecolourorother。Itseemedasdecentandrespectableahostelryasanytravellercouldwish,torefreshandreposehimselfin,afterawalkoftwentymiles。Ienteredawell—lightedpassage,andfromthenceawell—lightedbarroom,ontherighthand,inwhichsatastout,comely,elderlylady,dressedinsilksandsatins,withacambriccoifonherhead,incompanywithathin,elderlymanwithahatonhishead,dressedinaratherprimandprecisemanner。"Madam!"saidI,bowingtothelady,"asIsupposeyouarethemistressofthisestablishment,I
begleavetoinformyouthatIamanEnglishman,walkingthroughtheseregions,inorderfullytoenjoytheirbeautiesandwonders。
IhavethisdaycomefromLlangollen,andbeingsomewhathungryandfatigued,hopeIcanbeaccommodatedherewithadinnerandabed。"
"Sir!"saidthelady,gettingupandmakingmeaprofoundcurtsey,"Iam,asyousuppose,themistressofthisestablishment,andamhappytosaythatIshallbeabletoaccommodateyou—praysitdown,sir;"shecontinued,handingmeachair,"youmustindeedbetired,forLlangollenisagreatwayfromhere。"
Itooktheseatwiththanks,andsheresumedherown。
"Ratherhotweatherforwalking,sir!"saidtheprecise—lookinggentleman。
"Itis,"saidI;"butasIcan’tobservethecountrywellwithoutwalkingthroughit,Iputupwiththeheat。"
"Youexhibitaphilosophicmind,sir,"saidtheprecise—lookinggentleman—"andaphilosophicmindIholdinreverence。"
"Pray,sir,"saidI,"haveIthehonourofaddressingamemberofthemedicalprofession?"
"Sir,"saidtheprecise—lookinggentleman,gettingupandmakingmeabow,"yourquestiondoeshonourtoyourpowersofdiscrimination—amemberofthemedicalprofessionIam,thoughanunworthyone。"
"Nay,nay,doctor,"saidthelandladybriskly;"saynotso—everyoneknowsthatyouareacredittoyourprofession—wellwoulditbeifthereweremanyinitlikeyou—unworthy?marrycomeup!I
won’thearsuchanexpression。"
"Isee,"saidI,"thatIhavenotonlythehonourofaddressingamedicalgentleman,butadoctorofmedicine—however,Imighthaveknownasmuchbyyourlanguageanddeportment。"
Withayetlowerbowthanbeforeherepliedwithsomethingofasigh,"No,sir,no,ourkindlandladyandtheneighbourhoodareinthehabitofplacingdoctorbeforemyname,butIhavenotitletoit—IamnotDoctorJones,sir,butplainGefferyJonesatyourservice,"andthereuponwithanotherbowhesatdown。
"Doyouresidehere?"saidI。
"Yes,sir,Iresidehereintheplaceofmybirth—Ihavenotalwaysresidedhere—andIdidnotalwaysexpecttospendmylatterdaysinaplaceofsuchobscurity,but,sir,misfortunes—
misfortunes……"
"Ah,"saidI,"misfortunes!theypursueeveryone,moreespeciallythosewhosevirtuesshouldexemptthemfromthem。Well,sir,theconsciousnessofnothavingdeservedthemshouldbeyourconsolation。"
"Sir,"saidthedoctor,takingoffhishat,"youareinfinitelykind。"
"Youcallthisanobscureplace,"saidI—"canthatbeanobscureplacewhichhasproducedapoet?IhavelonghadarespectforCerrigyDrudionbecauseitgavebirthto,andwastheresidenceofapoetofconsiderablemerit。"
"Iwasnotawareofthatfact,"saidthedoctor,"praywhatwashisname?"
"PeterLewis,"saidI;"hewasaclergymanofCerrigyDrudionaboutthemiddleofthelastcentury,andamongstotherthingswroteabeautifulsongcalledCathlyGairMwys,orthemelodyoftheambiguousword。"
"SurelyyoudonotunderstandWelsh?"saidthedoctor。
"Iunderstandalittleofit,"Ireplied。
"WillyouallowmetospeaktoyouinWelsh?"saidthedoctor。
"Certainly,"saidI。
HespoketomeinWelsh,andIreplied。
"Ha,ha,"saidthelandladyinEnglish;"onlythink,doctor,ofthegentlemanunderstandingWelsh—wemustmindwhatwesaybeforehim。"
"AndareyouanEnglishman?"saidthedoctor。
"Iam,"Ireplied。
"Andhowcameyoutolearnit?"
"Iamfondoflanguages,"saidI,"andstudiedWelshatanearlyperiod。"
"AndyoureadWelshpoetry?"
"Ohyes。"
"Howwereyouenabledtomasteritsdifficulties?"
"ChieflybygoingthroughOwenPugh’sversionof’ParadiseLost’
twice,withtheoriginalbymyside。Hehasintroducedintothattranslationsomanyofthepoetictermsoftheoldbards,thataftertwicegoingthroughit,therewaslittleinWelshpoetrythatIcouldnotmakeoutwithalittlepondering。"
"Youpursuedaveryexcellentplan,sir,"saidthedoctor,"averyexcellentplanindeed。OwenPugh!"
"OwenPugh!Thelastofyourverygreatmen,"saidI。
"Yousayright,sir,"saidthedoctor。"Hewasindeedourlastgreatman—UltimusRomanorum。Ihavemyselfreadhiswork,whichhecalledCollGwynfa,theLossoftheplaceofBliss—anadmirabletranslation,sir;highlypoetical,andatthesametimecorrect。"
"Didyouknowhim?"saidI。
"Ihadnotthehonourofhisacquaintance,"saidthedoctor—"but,sir,IamhappytosaythatIhavemadeyours。"
Thelandladynowbegantotalktomeaboutdinner,andpresentlywentouttomakepreparationsforthatveryimportantmeal。Ihadagreatdealofconversationwiththedoctor,whomIfoundapersonofgreatandvariedinformation,andonewhohadseenavastdealoftheworld。HewasgivingmeanaccountofanislandintheWestIndies,whichhehadvisited,whenaboycomingin,whisperedintohisear;whereupon,gettinguphesaid:"Sir,Iamcalledaway。I
amacountrysurgeon,andofcourseanaccoucheur。Thereisaladywholivesatsomedistancerequiringmyassistance。ItiswithgriefIleaveyousoabruptly,butIhopethatsometimeorotherweshallmeetagain。"Thenmakingmeanexceedinglyprofoundbow,helefttheroom,followedbytheboy。
Idinedupstairsinaveryhandsomedrawing—room,communicatingwithasleepingapartment。DuringdinnerIwaswaiteduponbythedaughterofthelandlady,agood—lookingmerrygirloftwenty。
AfterdinnerIsatforsometimethinkingovertheadventuresoftheday,thenfeelingratherlonelyandnotinclinedtoretiretorest,Iwentdowntothebar,whereIfoundthelandladyseatedwithherdaughter。Isatdownwiththemandweweresooninconversation。WespokeofDoctorJones—thelandladysaidthathehadhislittleeccentricities,butwasanexcellentandlearnedman。Speakingofherselfshesaidthatshehadthreedaughters,thattheyoungestwaswithherandthatthetwoeldestkepttheprincipalinnatRuthyn。WeoccasionallyspokealittleWelsh。Atlengththelandladysaid,"ThereisanItalianinthekitchenwhocanspeakWelshtoo。It’soddtheonlytwopeoplenotWelshmenI
haveeverknownwhocouldspeakWelsh,forsuchyouandheare,shouldbeinmyhouseatthesametime。"
"Dearme,"saidI;"Ishouldliketoseehim。"
"Thatyoucaneasilydo,"saidthegirl;"Idaresayhewillbegladenoughtocomeinifyouinvitehim。"
"Praytakemycomplimentstohim,"saidI,"andtellhimthatI
shallbegladofhiscompany。"
ThegirlwentoutandpresentlyreturnedwiththeItalian。Hewasashort,thick,strongly—builtfellowofaboutthirty—seven,withaswarthyface,raven—blackhair,highforehead,anddarkdeepeyes,fullofintelligenceandgreatdetermination。Hewasdressedinavelveteencoat,withbroadlappets,redwaistcoat,velveteenbreeches,buttoningalittlewaybelowtheknee;whitestockingsapparentlyoflamb’s—woolandhigh—lows。
"Buonasera?"saidI。
"Buonasera,signore!"saidtheItalian。
"Willyouhaveaglassofbrandyandwater?"saidIinEnglish。
"Ineverrefuseagoodoffer,"saidtheItalian。
Hesatdown,andIorderedaglassofbrandyandwaterforhimandanotherformyself。
"PrayspeakalittleItaliantohim,"saidthegoodlandladytome。
"Ihaveheardagreatdealaboutthebeautyofthatlanguage,andshouldliketohearitspoken。"
"FromtheLagodiComo?"saidI,tryingtospeakItalian。
"Si,signore!buthowcameyoutothinkthatIwasfromtheLakeofComo?"
"Because,"saidI,"whenIwasaragazzoIknewmanyfromtheLakeofComo,whodressedmuchlikeyourself。Theywanderedaboutthecountrywithboxesontheirbacksandweather—glassesintheirhands,buthadtheirhead—quartersatN。whereIlived。"
"Doyourememberanyoftheirnames?"saidtheItalian。
"GiovanniGestraandLuigiPozzi,"Ireplied。
"IhaveseenGiovanniGestramyself,"saidtheItalian,"andIhaveheardofLuigiPozzi。GiovanniGestrareturnedtotheLago—butnooneknowswhatisbecomeofLuigiPozzi。"
"ThelasttimeIsawhim,"saidI,"wasabouteighteenyearsagoatCorunainSpain;hewastheninasaddroopingcondition,andsaidhebitterlyrepentedeverquittingN。"
"Econragione,"saidtheItalian,"forthereisnoplacelikeN。
fordoingbusinessinthewholeworld。Imyselfhavesoldseventypounds’worthofweather—glassesatN。inoneday。Oneofourpeopleislivingtherenow,whohasdonebene,moltobene。"
"That’sRossi,"saidI,"howisitthatIdidnotmentionhimfirst?Heismyexcellentfriend,andafiner,clevererfellowneverlived,noramorehonourableman。Youmaywellsayhehasdonewell,forheisnowthefirstjewellerintheplace。ThelasttimeIwasthereIboughtadiamondofhimformydaughterHenrietta。Letusdrinkhishealth!"
"Willingly!"saidtheItalian。"HeistheprinceoftheMilaneseofEngland—themostsuccessfulofall,butIacknowledgethemostdeserving。Cheviva。"
"Iwishhewouldwritehislife,"saidI;"asingularlifeitwouldbe—hehasbeensomethingbesidesatravellingmerchant,andajeweller。HewasoneofBuonaparte’ssoldiers,andservedinSpain,underSoult,alongwithJohnGestra。HeoncetoldmethatSoultwasanoldrascal,andstoleallthefinepicturesfromtheconvents,atSalamanca。Ibelievehespokewithsomedegreeofenvy,forheishimselffondofpictures,andhasdealtinthem,andmadehundredsbythem。IquestionwhetherifinSoult’splacehewouldnothavedonethesame。Well,howeverthatmaybe,cheviva。"
Herethelandladyinterposed,observingthatshewishedwewouldnowspeakEnglish,forthatshehadquiteenoughofItalian,whichshedidnotfindnearsoprettyalanguageasshehadexpected。
"YoumustnotjudgeofthesoundofItalianfromwhatproceedsfrommymouth,"saidI。"Itisnotmynativelanguage。Ihavehadlittlepracticeinit,andonlyspeakitveryimperfectly。"
"NormustyoujudgeofItalianfromwhatyouhaveheardmespeak,"
saidthemanofComo;"IamnotgoodatItalian,fortheMilanesespeakamongstthemselvesakindofjargon,composedofmanylanguages,andcanonlyexpressthemselveswithdifficultyinItalian。IhavebeendoingmybesttospeakItalian,butshouldbegladnowtospeakEnglish,whichcomestomemuchmoreglibly。"
"Arethereanybooksinyourdialect,orjergo,asIbelieveyoucallit?"saidI。
"Ibelievethereareafew,"saidtheItalian。
"Doyouknowthewordslandra?"saidI。
"Whotaughtyouthatword?"saidtheItalian。
"GiovanniGestra,"saidI;"hewasalwaysusingit。"
"GiovanniGestrawasavulgarilliterateman,"saidtheItalian;
"hadhenotbeensohewouldnothaveusedit。Itisavulgarword;Rossiwouldnothaveusedit。"
"Whatisthemeaningofit?"saidthelandladyeagerly。
"Toroamaboutinadissipatedmanner,"saidI。
"Somethingmore,"saidtheItalian。"Itisconsideredavulgarwordeveninjergo。"
"YouspeakEnglishremarkablywell,"saidI;"haveyoubeenlonginBritain?"
"Icameoveraboutfouryearsago,"saidtheItalian。
"Onyourownaccount?"saidI。
"Notexactly,signore;mybrother,whowasinbusinessinLiverpool,wrotetometocomeoverandassisthim。Ididso,butsoonlefthim,andtookashopformyselfatDenbigh,where,however,Ididnotstaylong。AtpresentItravelforanItalianhouseinLondon,spendingthesummerinWales,andthewinterinEngland。"
"Andwhatdoyousell?"saidI。
"Weather—glasses,signore—picturesandlittletrinkets,suchasthecountrypeoplelike。"
"Doyousellmanyweather—glassesinWales?"saidI。
"Idonot,signore。TheWelshcarenotforweather—glasses;myprincipalcustomersforweather—glassesarethefarmersofEngland。"
"IamtoldthatyoucanspeakWelsh,"saidI;"isthattrue?"
"Ihavepickedupalittleofit,signore。"
"Hecanspeakitverywell,"saidthelandlady;"andgladshouldI
be,sir,tohearyouandhimspeakWelshtogether。"
"SoshouldI,"saidthedaughterwhowasseatednighus,"nothingwouldgivemegreaterpleasurethantoheartwowhoarenotWelshmenspeakingWelshtogether。"
"IwouldratherspeakEnglish,"saidtheItalian;"IspeakalittleWelsh,whenmybusinessleadsmeamongstpeoplewhospeaknootherlanguage,butIseenonecessityforspeakingWelshhere。"
"Itisapity,"saidI,"thatsobeautifulacountryasItalyshouldnotbebettergoverned。"
"Itis,signore,"saidtheItalian;"butletushopethatatimewillspeedilycomewhenshewillbeso。"
"Idon’tseeanychanceofit,"saidI。"HowwillyouproceedinordertobringaboutsodesirablearesultasthegoodgovernmentofItaly?"
"Why,signore,inthefirstplacewemustgetridoftheAustrians。"
"Youwillnotfinditaneasymatter,"saidI,"togetridoftheAustrians;youtriedtodosoalittletimeago,butmiserablyfailed。"
"True,signore;butthenexttimewetryperhapstheFrenchwillhelpus。"
"IftheFrenchhelpyoutodrivetheAustriansfromItaly,"saidI,"youmustbecometheirservants。ItistrueyouhadbetterbetheservantsofthepolishedandchivalrousFrench,thanofthebrutalandbarbarousGermans,butitisnotpleasanttobeaservanttoanybody。However,IdonotbelievethatyouwillevergetridoftheAustrians,eveniftheFrenchassistyou。ThePopeforcertainreasonsofhisownfavourstheAustrians,andwillexertallthepowersofpriestcrafttokeeptheminItaly。Alas,alas,thereisnohopeforItaly!Italy,themostbeautifulcountryintheworld,thebirth—placeofthecleverestpeople,whoseverypedlarscanlearntospeakWelsh,isnotonlyenslaved,butdestinedalwaystoremainenslaved。"
"Donotsayso,signore,"saidtheItalian,withakindofgroan。
"ButIdosayso,"saidI,"andwhatismore,onewhoseshoe—
strings,werehealive,Ishouldnotheworthytountie,oneofyourmightyones,hassaidso。DidyoueverhearofVincenzioFilicaia?"
"IbelieveIhave,signore;didhenotwriteasonnetonItaly?"
"Hedid,"saidI;"wouldyouliketohearit?
"Verymuch,signore。"
IrepeatedFilicaia’sglorioussonnetonItaly,andthenaskedhimifheunderstoodit。
"Onlyinpart,signore;foritiscomposedinoldTuscan,inwhichIamnotmuchversed。IbelieveIshouldcomprehenditbetterifyouweretosayitinEnglish。"
"DosayitinEnglish,"saidthelandladyandherdaughter:"weshouldsoliketohearitinEnglish。"
"Iwillrepeatatranslation,"saidI,"whichImadewhenaboy,whichthoughfarfromgood,has,Ibelieve,initsomethingofthespiritoftheoriginal:—
"OItaly!onwhomdarkDestinyThedangerousgiftofbeautydidbestow,Fromwhencethouhastthatampledowerofwo,Whichonthyfrontthoubear’stsovisibly。
Wouldthouhadstbeautylessorstrengthmorehigh,Thatmoreoffear,andlessoflovemightshow,Hewhonowblastshiminthybeauty’sglow,Orwoostheewithazealthatmakestheedie;
ThendownfromAlpnomorewouldtorrentsrageOfarmedmen,norGalliccoursershotInPo’sensanguin’dtidetheirthirstassuage;
Norgirtwithiron,notthineown,Iwot,WouldstthouthefightbyhandsofstrangerswageVictressorvanquish’dslaverystillthylot。"
CHAPTERXXV
Lacing—upHigh—lows—TheNativeVillage—GameLeg—CroppiesLieDown—KeepingFaith—Processions—CroppiesGetUp—DanielO’Connell。
ISLEPTinthechambercommunicatingwiththeroominwhichIhaddined。Thechamberwasspaciousandairy,thebedfirst—rate,andmyselfrathertired,sothatnoonewillbesurprisedwhenIsaythatIhadexcellentrest。Igotup,andafterdressingmyselfwentdown。Themorningwasexceedinglybrilliant。GoingoutIsawtheItalianlacinguphishigh—lowsagainstastep。Isalutedhim,andaskedhimifhewasabouttodepart。
"Yes,signore;IshallpresentlystartforDenbigh。"
"AfterbreakfastIshallstartforBangor,"saidI。
"DoyouproposetoreachBangorto—night,signore?"
"Yes,"saidI。
"Walking,signore?"
"Yes,"saidI;"IalwayswalkinWales。"
"Thenyouwillhaveratheralongwalk,signore;forBangoristhirty—fourmilesfromhere。"
Iaskedhimifhewasmarried。
"No,signore;butmybrotherinLiverpoolis。"
"ToanItalian?"
"No,signore;toaWelshgirl。"
"AndIsuppose,"saidI,"youwillfollowhisexamplebymarryingone;perhapsthatgood—lookinggirlthelandlady’sdaughterwewereseatedwithlastnight?"
"No,signore;Ishallnotfollowmybrother’sexample。IfeverI
takeawifesheshallbeofmyownvillage,inComo,whitherIhopetoreturn,assoonasIhavepickedupafewmorepounds。"
"WhethertheAustriansaredrivenawayornot?"saidI。
"WhethertheAustriansaredrivenawayornot—fortomymindthereisnocountrylikeComo,signore。"
Iorderedbreakfast;whilsttakingitintheroomaboveIsawthroughtheopenwindowtheItaliantrudgingforthonhisjourney,ahugeboxonhisback,andaweather—glassinhishand—lookingtheexactimageofoneofthosemen,hiscountrypeople,whomfortyyearsbeforeIhadknownatN—。Ithoughtofthecourseoftime,sighedandfeltateargatherinmyeye。
Mybreakfastconcluded,Ipaidmybill,andafterinquiringthewaytoBangor,andbiddingadieutothekindlandladyandherdaughter,setoutfromCerrigyDrudion。Mycourselaywest,acrossaflatcountry,boundedinthefardistancebythemightyhillsIhadseenontheprecedingevening。AfterwalkingaboutamileIovertookamanwithagameleg,thatisalegwhich,eitherbynatureoraccidentnotbeingsolongasitsbrotherleg,hadapattenattachedtoit,aboutfiveincheshigh,toenableittododutywiththeother—hewasafellowwithredshockhairandveryredfeatures,andwasdressedinraggedcoatandbreechesandahatwhichhadlostpartofitscrown,andallitsrim,sothatevenwithoutagameleghewouldhavelookedratheraqueerfigure。Inhishandhecarriedafiddle。
"Goodmorningtoyou,"saidI。
"Agoodmorningtoyourhanner,amerryafternoonandaroaring,joyousevening—thatistheworstluckIwishtoye。"
"Areyouanativeoftheseparts?"saidI。
"Notexactly,yourhanner—IamanativeofthecityofDublin,or,what’sallthesamething,ofthevillageofDonnybrook,whichisclosebyit。"
"Acelebratedplace,"saidI。
"Yourhannermaysaythat;alltheworldhasheardofDonnybrook,owingtothehumoursofitsfair。ManyisthemerrytuneIhaveplayedtotheboysatthatfair。"
"Youareaprofessorofmusic,Isuppose?"
"Andnotaverybadone,asyourhannerwillsay,ifyouallowmetoplayyouatune。"
"CanyouplayCroppiesLieDown?"
"Icannot,yourhanner,myfingersneverlearnttoplaysuchablackguardtune;butifyouwishtohearCroppiesGetUpIcanobligeye。"
"YouareaRomanCatholic,Isuppose?"
"Iamnot,yourhanner—IamaCatholictotheback—bone,justlikemyfatherbeforeme。Come,yourhanner,shallIplayyeCroppiesGetUp?"
"No,"saidI;"it’satunethatdoesn’tpleasemyears。If,however,youchoosetoplayCroppiesLieDown,I’llgiveyouashilling。"
"Yourhannerwillgivemeashilling?"
"Yes,"saidI;"ifyouplayCroppiesLieDown;butyouknowyoucannotplayit,yourfingersneverlearnedthetune。"
"Theyneverdid,yourhanner;buttheyhavehearditplayedofouldbytheblackguardOrangefiddlersofDublinonthefirstofJuly,whentheProtestantboysusedtowalkroundWillie’sstatueonCollegeGreen—soifyourhannergivesmetheshilling,theymayperhapsbringoutsomethinglikeit。"
"Verygood,"saidI;"begin!"
"But,yourhanner,whatshallwedoforthewords?thoughmyfingersmayrememberthetunemytonguedoesnotrememberthewords—thatisunless……"
"Igiveanothershilling,"saidI;"butnevermindyouthewords;I
knowthewords,andwillrepeatthem。"
"Andyourhannerwillgivemeashilling?"
"Ifyouplaythetune,"saidI。
"Hannerbright,yourhanner?"
"Honourbright,"saidI。
Thereuponthefiddlertakinghisbowandshoulderinghisfiddle,struckupinfirst—ratestyletheglorioustune,whichIhadsooftenheardwithraptureinthedaysofmyboyhoodinthebarrack—
yardofClonmel;whilstI,walkingbyhissideashestumpedalong,causedthewelkintoresoundwiththewords,whichwerethedelightoftheyounggentlemenoftheProtestantacademyofthatbeautifuloldtown。
"Ineverheardthosewordsbefore,"saidthefiddler,afterIhadfinishedthefirststanza。
"Getonwithyou,"saidI。
"RegularOrangewords!"saidthefiddler,onmyfinishingthesecondstanza。
"Doyouchoosetogeton?"saidI。
"MoreblackguardOrangewordsIneverheard!"criedthefiddler,onmycomingtotheconclusionofthethirdstanza。"DivilabitfartherwillIplay;atanyratetillIgettheshilling。"
"Hereitisforyou,"saidI;"thesongisended,and,ofcourse,thetune。"
"Thankyourhanner,"saidthefiddler,takingthemoney,"yourhannerhaskeptyourwordwithme,whichismorethanIthoughtyourhannerwould。Andnowyourhannerletmeaskyouwhydidyourhannerwishforthattune,whichisnotonlyablackguardonebutquiteoutofdate;andwheredidyourhannergetthewords?"
"Iusedtohearthetuneinmyboyishdays,"saidI,"andwishedtohearitagain,forthoughyoucallitablackguardtune,itisthesweetestandmostnobleairthatIreland,thelandofmusic,haseverproduced。Asforthewords,nevermindwhereIgotthem;theyareviolentenough,butnothalfsoviolentasthewordsofsomeofthesongsmadeagainsttheIrishProtestantsbythepriests。"