"YourhannerisanOrangeman,Isee。Well,yourhanner,theOrangeisnowinthekennel,andtheCroppieshaveitalltheirownway。"
"Andperhaps,"saidI,"beforeIdie,theOrangewillbeoutofthekennelandtheCroppiesin,evenastheywereinmyyoungdays。"
"Whoknows,yourhanner?andwhoknowsthatImaynotplaytheoldtuneroundWillie’simageinCollegeGreen,evenasIusedsometwenty—sevenyearsago?"
"OhthenyouhavebeenanOrangefiddler?"
"Ihave,yourhanner。AndnowasyourhannerhasbehavedlikeagentlemantomeIwilltellyeallmyhistory。IwasborninthecityofDublin,thatisinthevillageofDonnybrook,asItouldyourhannerbefore。ItwastothetradeofbricklayingIwasbred,andbricklayingIfollowedtillatlast,gettingmylegsmashed,notbyfallingofftheladder,butbyarowinthefair,Iwasobligedtogiveitup,forhowcouldIrunuptheladderwithapattenonmyfoot,whichtheyputontomakemybrokenlegaslongastheother。Wellyourhanner,beingobligedtogiveupmybricklaying,Itooktofiddling,towhichIhadalwaysanaturalinclination,andplayedaboutthestreets,andatfairs,andwakes,andweddings。AtlengthsomeOrangemengettingacquaintedwithme,andlikingmystyleofplaying,invitedmetotheirlodge,wheretheygavemetodrinkandtouldmethatifIwouldchangemyreligion,andjointhem,andplaytheirtunes,theywouldmakeitanswermypurpose。Well,yourhanner,withoutmuchsticklingI
gaveupmyPopery,joinedtheOrangelodge,learnedtheOrangetunes,andbecamearegularProtestantboy,andtrulytheOrangemenkepttheirword,andmadeitanswermypurpose。OhthemeatanddrinkIgot,andthemoneyImadebyplayingattheOrangelodgesandbeforetheprocessionswhentheOrangemenparadedthestreetswiththeirOrangecolours。Andoh,whatadayformewasthegloriousfirstofJulywhenwithmywholebodycoveredwithOrangeribbons,IfiddledCroppiesLieDown,BoyneWater,andtheProtestantBoysbeforetheprocessionwhichwalkedroundWillie’sfigureonhorsebackinCollegeGreen,themanandhorseallablazewithOrangecolours。Butnothinglastsunderthesun,asyourhannerknows;Orangeismbegantogodown;theGovernmentscowledatit,andatlastpassedalawpreventingtheProtestantboysdressingupthefigureonthefirstofJuly,andwalkingroundit。
Thatwasthedeath—blowoftheOrangeparty,yourhanner;theyneverrecoveredit,butbegantodespondanddwindle,andIwiththem;fortherewasscarcelyanydemandforOrangetunes。ThenDanO’Connellarosewithhisemancipationandrepalecries,andtheninsteadofOrangeprocessionsandwalkings,therewerePapistprocessionsandmobs,whichmademeafraidtostirout,lestknowingmeforanOrangefiddler,theyshouldbreakmyhead,astheboysbrokemylegatDonnybrookfair。AtlengthsomeoftherepalersandemancipatorsknowingthatIwasafirst—ratehandatfiddlingcametomeandtouldme,thatifIwouldgiveoverplayingCroppiesLieDownandotherOrangetunes,andwouldplayCroppiesGetUp,andwhatnot,andbecomeaCatholicandarepaler,andanemancipator,theywouldmakeamanofme—soasmyOrangetradewasgone,andIwashalf—starved,Iconsinted,nothowevertilltheyhadintroducedmetoDanielO’Connell,whocalledmeacridittomycountry,andtheIrishHorpheus,andpromisedmeasovereignifIwouldconsinttojointhecause,ashecalledit。Well,yourhanner,IjoinedwiththecauseandbecameaPapist,ImaneaCatholiconcemore,andwentattheheadofprocessionscoveredalloverwithgreenribbons,playingCroppiesGetUp,GrannyWhale,andthelike。But,yourhanner,thoughIwentthewholehogwiththerepalersandemancipators,theydidnotmaketheirwordsgoodbymakingamanofme。Scantandsparingweretheyinthemateanddrink,andyetmoresparinginthemoney,andDanielO’Connellnevergavemethesovereignwhichhepromisedme。No,yourhanner,thoughIplayedCroppiesGetUp,tillmyfingersached,asI
stumpedbeforehimandhismobsandprocessions,henevergavemethesovereign:unlikeyourhannerwhogavemetheshillingyepromisedmeforplayingCroppiesLieDown,DanielO’ConnellnevergavemethesovereignhepromisedmeforplayingCroppiesGetUp。
Och,yourhanner,IoftenwishedtheouldOrangedayswerebackagain。HoweverasIcoulddonobetterIcontinuedgoingthewholehogwiththeemancipatorsandrepalersandDanO’Connell;Iwentthewholeanimalwiththemtilltheyhadgotemancipation;andI
wentthewholeanimalwiththemtilltheyhadnearlygotrepale—
whenallofasuddentheyletthewholethingdrop—DanandhispartyhavingfrightedtheGovernmentoutofitssevensenses,andgottenalltheycouldget,inmoneyandplaces,whichwasalltheywanted,letthewholehullabaloodrop,andofcoursemyself,whoformedpartofit。IwenttothosewhohadpersuadedmetogiveupmyOrangetunes,andtoplayPapistones,beggingthemtogivemework;buttheytouldmeverycivillythattheyhadnofurtheroccasionformyservices。IwenttoDanielO’Connellremindinghimofthesovereignhehadpromisedme,andofferingifhegaveitmetoplayCroppiesGetUpunderthenoseofthelord—lieutenanthimself;buthetouldmethathehadnottimetoattendtome,andwhenIpersisted,bademegototheDivilandshakemyself。Well,yourhanner,seeingnoprospectformyselfinmyowncountry,andhavingincurredsomelittledebts,forwhichIfearedtobearrested,IcameovertoEnglandandWales,wherewithlittlecontentandsatisfactionIhavepassedsevenyears。"
"Well,"saidI;"thankyouforyourhistory—farewell。"
"Stap,yourhanner;doesyourhannerthinkthattheOrangewilleverbeoutofthekennel,andthattheOrangeboyswilleverwalkroundthebrassmanandhorseinCollegeGreenastheydidofould?"
"Whoknows?"saidI。"Butsupposeallthatweretohappen,whatwoulditsignifytoyou?"
"WhythendivilbeinmypattenifIwouldnotgobacktoDonnybrookandDublin,hoisttheOrangecockade,andbecomeasgoodanOrangeboyasever。"
"What,"saidI,"andgiveupPoperyforthesecondtime?"
"Iwould,yourhanner;andwhynot?forinspiteofwhatIhaveheardFatherTobansay,IambynomeanscertainthatallProtestantswillbedamned。"
"Farewell,"saidI。
"Farewell,yourhanner,andlonglifeandprosperitytoyou!GodblessyourhannerandyourOrangeface。Ah,theOrangeboysaretheboysforkeepingfaith。TheyneverservedmeasDanO’Connellandhisdirtygangofrepalersandemancipatorsdid。Farewell,yourhanner,oncemore;andhere’sanotherscratchoftheilliganttuneyourhannerissofondof,tocheerupyourhanner’searsuponyourway。"
AndlongafterIhadlefthimIcouldhearhimplayingonhisfiddleinfirst—ratestylethebeautifultuneof"Down,down,CroppiesLieDown。"
CHAPTERXXVI
CeiniogMawr—PentreVoelas—TheOldConway—StupendousPass—
TheGwedirFamily—CapelCurig—TheTwoChildren—Bread—
WonderfulEcho—TremendousWalker。
IWALKEDonbrisklyoveraflatuninterestingcountry,andinaboutanhour’stimecameinfrontofalargestonehouse。Itstoodneartheroad,ontheleft—handside,withapondandpleasanttreesbeforeit,andanumberofcorn—stacksbehind。Ithadsomethingtheappearanceofaninn,butdisplayednosign。AsIwasstandinglookingatit,amanwiththelookofalabourer,andwithadogbyhisside,cameoutofthehouseandadvancedtowardsme。
"Whatisthenameofthisplace?"saidItohiminEnglishashedrewnigh。
"Sir,"saidtheman,"thenameofthehouseisCeiniogMawr。"
"Isitaninn?"saidI。
"Notnow,sir;butsomeyearsagoitwasaninn,andaverylargeone,atwhichcoachesusedtostop;atpresentitisoccupiedbyanamaethwr—thatisafarmer,sir。"
"CeiniogMawrmeansagreatpenny,"saidI,"whyisitcalledbythatname?"
"Ihaveheard,sir,thatbeforeitwasaninnitwasaveryconsiderableplace,namelyaroyalmint,atwhichpenniesweremade,andonthataccountitwascalledCeiniogMawr。"
IwassubsequentlytoldthatthenameofthisplacewasCerniogeMawr。Ifsuchbetherealnamethelegendaboutthemintfallstotheground,Cerniogehavingnothingtodowithpence。CerninWelshmeansajaw。PerhapsthetruenameofthehouseisCorniawg,whichinterpretedisaplacewithplentyofturretsorchimneys。A
mileortwofurtherthegroundbegantorise,andIcametoasmallvillageattheentranceofwhichwasawater—wheel—nearthevillagewasagentleman’sseatalmostsurroundedbygroves。AfterIhadpassedthroughthevillage,seeingawomanseatedbytheroadsideknitting,IaskedherinEnglishitsname。FindingshehadnoSaesnegIrepeatedthequestioninWelsh,whereuponshetoldmethatitwascalledPentreVoelas。
"Andwhomdoesthe’Plas’belongtoyonderamongstthegroves?"
saidI。
"ItbelongstoMrWynn,sir,andsodoesthevillageandagreatdealofthelandabouthere。AverygoodgentlemanisMrWynn,sir;heisverykindtohistenantsandaverygoodladyisMrsWynn,sir;inthewintershegivesmuchsouptothepoor。"
AfterleavingthevillageofPentreVoelasIsoonfoundmyselfinawildhillyregion。Icrossedabridgeoverariver,which,brawlingandtumblingamidstrocks,shapeditscoursetothenorth—
east。AsIproceeded,thecountrybecamemoreandmorewild;thereweredinglesandhollowsinabundance,andfantastic—lookinghills,someofwhichwerebare,andotherscladwithtreesofvariouskinds。Cametoalittlewellinacavity,duginahighbankontheleft—handsideoftheroad,andfencedbyrudestoneworkoneitherside;thewellwasaboutteninchesindiameter,andasmanydeep。Wateroozingfromthebankuponaslantingtilefastenedintotheearthfellintoit。Afterdamminguptheendofthetilewithmyhand,anddrinkingsomedeliciouswater,Ipassedonandpresentlyarrivedatacottage,justinsidethedoorofwhichsatagood—lookingmiddle—agedwomanengagedinknitting,thegeneraloccupationofWelshfemales。
"Good—day,"saidItoherinWelsh。"Fineweather。"
"Intruth,sir,itisfineweatherfortheharvest。"
"Areyoualoneinthehouse?"
"Iam,sir,myhusbandhasgonetohislabour。"
"Haveyouanychildren?"
"Two,sir;buttheyareoutatservice。"
"Whatisthenameofthisplace?"
"PantPaddock,sir。"
"Doyougetyourwaterfromthelittlewellyonder?"
"Wedo,sir,andgoodwateritis。"
"Ihavedrunkofit。"
"Muchgoodmaywhatyouhavedrunkdoyou,sir!"
"Whatisthenameoftherivernearhere?"
"ItiscalledtheConway,sir。"
"Dearme;isthatrivertheConway?"
"Youhaveheardofit,sir?"
"Heardofit!itisoneofthefamousriversoftheworld。Thepoetsareveryfondofit—oneofthegreatpoetsofmycountrycallsittheoldConway。"
"Isoneriverolderthananother,sir?"
"That’sashrewdquestion。Canyouread?"
"Ican,sir。"
"Haveyouanybooks?"
"IhavetheBible,sir。"
"Willyoushowitme?"
"Willingly,sir。"
Thengettingupshetookabookfromashelfandhandedittome,atthesametimebeggingmetoenterthehouseandsitdown。I
declined,andsheagaintookherseatandresumedheroccupation。
Onopeningthebookthefirstwordswhichmetmyeyewere:"Gadimifynedtrwydydir!—Letmegothroughyourcountry"(Numb。XX。
22)。
"Imaysaythesewords,"saidI,pointingtothepassage。"Letmegothroughyourcountry。"
"Noonewillhinderyou,sir,foryouseemacivilgentleman。"
"Noonehashinderedmehitherto。WhereverIhavebeeninWalesI
haveexperiencednothingbutkindnessandhospitality,andwhenI
returntomyowncountryIwillsayso。"
"Whatcountryisyours,sir?"
"England。Didyounotknowthatbymytongue?"
"Ididnot,sir。Iknewbyyourtonguethatyouwerenotfromourparts—butIdidnotknowthatyouwereanEnglishman。ItookyouforaCumroofthesouthcountry。"
Returningthekindwomanherbook,andbiddingherfarewellI
departed,andproceededsomemilesthroughatrulymagnificentcountryofwood,rock,andmountain。AtlengthIcametoasteepmountaingorge,downwhichtheroadrannearlyduenorth,theConwaytotheleftrunningwithgreatnoiseparallelwiththeroad,amongstbrokenrocks,whichchafeditintofoam。Iwasnowamidststupendoushills,whosepaps,peaks,andpinnaclesseemedtorisetotheveryheaven。Animmensemountainontherightsideoftheroadparticularlystruckmyattention,andoninquiringofamanbreakingstonesbytheroadsideIlearnedthatitwascalledDinasMawr,orthelargecitadel,perhapsfromaforthavingbeenbuiltuponittodefendthepassintheoldBritishtimes。ComingtothebottomofthepassIcrossedoverbyanancientbridge,and,passingthroughasmalltown,foundmyselfinabeautifulvalleywithmajestichillsoneitherside。ThiswastheDyffrynConway,thecelebratedValeofConway,towhichinthesummertimefashionablegentryfromallpartsofBritainresortforshadeandrelaxation。WhenaboutmidwaydownthevalleyIturnedtothewest,uponeofthegrandestpassesintheworld,havingtwoimmensedoor—postsofrockattheentrance。thenorthernoneprobablyrisingtothealtitudeofninehundredfeet。Onthesouthernsideofthispassneartheentrancewereneatdwellingsfortheaccommodationofvisitorswithcoolapartmentsonthegroundfloor,withlargewindows,lookingtowardstheprecipitoussideofthemightynorthernhill;withinthemIobservedtables,andbooks,andyoungmen,probablyEnglishcollegians,seatedatstudy。
AfterIhadproceededsomewayupthepass,downwhichasmallriverran,awomanwhowasstandingontheright—handsideoftheway,seeminglyonthelook—out,beggedmeinbrokenEnglishtostepasideandlookatthefall。
"Youmeanawaterfall,Isuppose?"saidI。
"Yes,sir。"
"Andhowdoyoucallit?"saidI。
"TheFalloftheSwallow,sir。"
"AndinWelsh?"saidI。
"RhaiadryWennol,sir。"
"Andwhatisthenameoftheriver?"saidI。
"WecalltherivertheLygwy,sir。"
ItoldthewomanIwouldgo,whereuponsheconductedmethroughagateontheright—handsideanddownapathoverhungwithtreestoarockprojectingintotheriver。TheFalloftheSwallowisnotamajesticsinglefall,butasuccessionofsmallones。Firstthereareanumberoflittlefoamingtorrents,burstingthroughrocksabouttwentyyardsabovethepromontoryonwhichIstood。Thencometwobeautifulrollsofwhitewater,dashingintoapoolalittlewayabovethepromontory;thenthereisaswirlofwaterrounditscornerintoapoolbelowonitsright,blackasdeath,andseeminglyofgreatdepth;thenarushthroughaverynarrowoutletintoanotherpool,fromwhichthewaterclamoursawaydowntheglen。SuchistheRhaiadryWennol,orSwallowFall;calledsofromtherapiditywithwhichthewatersrushandskipalong。
Onaskingthewomanonwhosepropertythefallwas,sheinformedmethatitwasonthepropertyoftheGwedirfamily。ThenameofGwedirbroughttomymindthe"HistoryoftheGwedirFamily,"arareandcuriousbookwhichIhadreadinmyboyhood,andwhichwaswrittenbytherepresentativeofthatfamily,acertainSirJohnWynne,aboutthebeginningoftheseventeenthcentury。Itgivesanaccountofthefortunesofthefamily,fromitsearliestrise;butmoreparticularlyafterithademigrated,inordertoavoidbadneighbours,fromafairandfertiledistrictintoruggedSnowdonia,whereitfoundanythingbutthereposeitcameinquestof。ThebookwhichiswritteninboldgraphicEnglish,flingsconsiderablelightonthestateofsocietyinWales,inthetimeoftheTudors,atrulydeplorablestate,asthebookisfullofaccountsoffeuds,pettybutdesperateskirmishes,andrevengefulmurders。Tomanyofthedomesticsagas,orhistoriesofancientIcelandicfamilies,fromthecharacteroftheeventswhichitdescribesandalsofromthemannerinwhichitdescribesthem,the"HistoryoftheGwedirFamily,"bySirJohnWynne,bearsastrikingresemblance。
AftergivingthewomansixpenceIleftthefall,andproceededonmyway。Ipresentlycrossedabridgeunderwhichrantheriverofthefall,andwassooninawidevalleyoneachsideofwhichwereloftyhillsdottedwithwood,andatthetopofwhichstoodamightymountain,bareandprecipitous,withtwopapslikethoseofPindusoppositeJanina,butsomewhatsharper。Itwasaregionoffairybeautyandofwildgrandeur。Meetinganoldbleared—eyedfarmerIinquiredthenameofthemountainandlearnedthatitwascalledMoelSiabodorShabod。Shortlyafterleavinghim,Iturnedfromtheroadtoinspectamonticlewhichappearedtometohavesomethingoftheappearanceofaburialheap。Itstoodinagreenmeadowbytheriverwhichrandownthevalleyontheleft。Whetheritwasagravehilloranaturalmonticle,Iwillnotsay;butstandinginthefairmeadow,therivuletmurmuringbesideit,andtheoldmountainlookingdownuponit,Ithoughtitlookedaverymeetresting—placeforanoldCelticking。
TurningroundthenorthernsideofthemightySiabodIsoonreachedthevillageofCapelCurig,standinginavalleybetweentwohills,theeasternmostofwhichistheaforesaidMoelSiabod。HavingwalkednowtwentymilesinabroilingdayIthoughtithightimetotakesomerefreshment,andinquiredthewaytotheinn。Theinn,orratherthehotel,foritwasaverymagnificentedifice,stoodattheentranceofapassleadingtoSnowdon,onthesouthernsideofthevalley,inatotallydifferentdirectionfromtheroadleadingtoBangor,towhichplaceIwasbound。ThereIdinedinagrandsaloonamidstagreatdealoffashionablecompany,who,probablyconceivingfrommyheatedanddustyappearancethatIwassomepoorfellowtravellingonfootfrommotivesofeconomy,surveyedmewithlooksofthemostsuperciliousdisdain,which,however,neitherdeprivedmeofmyappetitenoroperateduncomfortablyonmyfeelings。
Mydinnerfinished,Ipaidmybill,andhavingsaunteredalittleaboutthehotelgarden,whichissituatedontheborderofasmalllakeandfromwhich,throughthevistaofthepass,Snowdonmaybeseentoweringinmajestyatthedistanceofaboutsixmiles,I
startedforBangor,whichisfourteenmilesfromCapelCurig。
TheroadtoBangorfromCapelCurigisalmostduewest。Anhour’swalkingbroughtmetoableakmoor,extendingforalongwayamidstwildsterilehills。
Thefirstofachainontheleft,wasahugelumpyhillwithaprecipicetowardstheroadprobablythreehundredfeethigh。WhenIhadcomenearlyparallelwiththecommencementofthisprecipice,Isawontheleft—handsideoftheroadtwochildrenlookingoveralowwallbehindwhichatalittledistancestoodawretchedhovel。
OncomingupIstoppedandlookedatthem;theywereaboyandgirl;thefirstabouttwelve,thelatterayearortwoyounger;
bothwretchedlydressedandlookingverysickly。
"HaveyouanyEnglish?"saidI,addressingtheboyinWelsh。
"Dimgair,"saidtheboy;"notaword;thereisnoSaesnegnearhere。"
"Whatisthenameofthisplace?"
"ThenameofourhouseisHelyg。"
"Andwhatisthenameofthathill?"saidI,pointingtothehilloftheprecipice。
"AlltyGog—thehighplaceofthecuckoo。"
"Haveyouafatherandmother?"
"Wehave。"
"Aretheyinthehouse?"
"TheyaregonetoCapelCurig。"
"Andtheyleftyoualone?"
"Theydid。Withthecatandthetrin—wire。"
"Doyourfatherandmothermakewire—work?"
"Theydo。Theylivebymakingit。"
"Whatisthewire—workfor?"
"Itisforhedgestofencethefieldswith。"
"Doyouhelpyourfatherandmother?"
"Wedo;asfaraswecan。"
"Youbothlookunwell。"
"Wehavelatelyhadthecryd"(ague)。
"Istheremuchcrydabouthere?"
"Plenty。"
"Doyoulivewell?"
"Whenwehavebreadwelivewell。"
"IfIgiveyouapennywillyoubringmesomewater?"
"Wewill,whetheryougiveusapennyornot。Come,sister,letusgoandfetchthegentlemanwater。"
Theyranintothehouseandpresentlyreturned,thegirlbearingapanofwater。AfterIhaddrunkIgaveeachofthechildrenapenny,andreceivedinreturnfromeachadiolchorthanks。
"Caneitherofyouread?"
"Neitheronenortheother。"
"Canyourfatherandmotherread?"
"Myfathercannot,mymothercanalittle。"
"Aretherebooksinthehouse?"
"Therearenot。"
"NoBible?"
"Thereisnobookatall。"
"Doyougotochurch?"
"Wedonot。"
"Tochapel?"
"Infineweather。"
"Areyouhappy?"
"Whenthereisbreadinthehouseandnocrydweareallhappy。"
"Farewelltoyou,children。"
"Farewelltoyou,gentleman!"exclaimedboth。
"Ihavelearntsomething,"saidI,"ofWelshcottagelifeandfeelingfromthatpoorsicklychild。"
Ihadpassedthefirstandsecondofthehillswhichstoodontheleft,andahugelongmountainontherightwhichconfrontedboth,whenayoungmancamedownfromagullyonmylefthand,andproceededinthesamedirectionasmyself。Hewasdressedinabluecoatandcorduroytrowsers,andappearedtobeofaconditionalittleabovethatofalabourer。HeshookhisheadandscowledwhenIspoketohiminEnglish,butsmiledonmyspeakingWelsh,andsaid:"Ah,youspeakCumraeg:IthoughtnoSaiscouldspeakCumraeg。"Iaskedhimifhewasgoingfar。
"Aboutfourmiles,"hereplied。
"OntheBangorroad?"
"Yes,"saidhe;"downtheBangorroad。"
Ilearnedthathewasacarpenter,andthathehadbeenupthegullytoseeanacquaintance—perhapsasweetheart。WepassedalakeonourrightwhichhetoldmewascalledLlynOgwen,andthatitaboundedwithfish。Hewasveryamusing,andexpressedgreatdelightathavingfoundanEnglishmanwhocouldspeakWelsh;"itwillbeathingtotalkof,"saidhe,"fortherestofmylife。"
Heenteredtwoorthreecottagesbythesideoftheroad,andeachtimehecameoutIheardhimsay:"IamwithaSaiswhocanspeakCumraeg。"Atlengthwecametoagloomy—lookingvalleytrendingduenorth;downthisvalleytheroadran,havinganenormouswallofrocksonitsrightandaprecipitoushollowontheleft,beyondwhichwasawallequallyhighastheotherone。Whenwehadproceededsomewaydowntheroadmyguidesaid。"Youshallnowhearawonderfulecho,"andshouting"taw,taw,"therocksrepliedinamannersomethinglikethebayingofhounds。"Harktothedogs!"exclaimedmycompanion。"ThispassiscalledNantyrieuancgwn,thepassoftheyoungdogs,becausewhenoneshoutsitanswerswithanoiseresemblingthecryingofhounds。"
Thesunwassettingwhenwecametoasmallvillageatthebottomofthepass。Iaskedmycompanionitsname。"Tyynymaes,"hereplied,addingashestoppedbeforeasmallcottagethathewasgoingnofarther,ashedweltthere。
"Isthereapublic—househere?"saidI。
"Thereis,"hereplied,"youwillfindonealittlefartherupontherighthand。"
"Come,andtakesomeale,"saidI。
"No,"saidhe。