Ashewasstandingbeforealongbuilding,throughtheopendoorofwhichasoundproceededlikethatofpreaching,Iaskedhimwhatplaceitwas,andwhatwasgoingoninit,andreceivedforanswerthatitwastheNationalSchool,andthattherewasaclergymanpreachinginit。IthenaskediftheclergymanwasoftheChurch,andonlearningthathewas,Iforthwithenteredthebuilding,whereinoneendofalongroomIsawayoungmaninawhitesurplicepreachingfromadesktoaboutthirtyorfortypeople,whowereseatedonbenchesbeforehim。Isatdownandlistened。Theyoungmanpreachedwithgreatzealandfluency。Thesermonwasaveryseasonableone,beingabouttheharvest,andinitthingstemporalandspiritualwereveryhappilyblended。ThepartofthesermonwhichIheard—IregrettedthatIdidnothearthewhole—
  lastedaboutfive—and—twentyminutes:ahymnfollowed,andthenthecongregationbrokeup。Iinquiredthenameoftheyoungmanwhopreached,andwastoldthatitwasEdwards,andthathecamefromCaernarvon。ThenameoftheincumbentoftheparishwasThomas。
  LeavingthevillageoftheharvestsermonIproceededonmywaywhichlaytothesouth—east。IwasnowdrawingnightothemountainousdistrictofEryri;anoblehillcalledMountEilioappearedbeforemetothenorth;animmensemountaincalledPenDrwsCoedlayoveragainstitonthesouth,justlikeacouchantelephantwithitsheadlowerthanthetopofitsback。AfteratimeIenteredamostbeautifulsunnyvalley,andpresentlycametoabridgeoverapleasantstreamrunninginthedirectionofthesouth。AsIstooduponthatbridgeIalmostfanciedmyselfinParadise;everythinglookedsobeautifulorgrand—green,sunnymeadowslayallaroundme,intersectedbythebrook,thewatersofwhichranwithtinklinglaughteroverashinglybottom。NobleEiliotothenorth;enormousPenDrwsCoedtothesouth;atallmountainfarbeyondthemtotheeast。"Ineverwasinsuchalovelyspot!"Icriedtomyselfinaperfectrapture。"Oh,howgladIshouldbetolearnthenameofthisbridge,standingonwhichIhavehad’Heavenopenedtome,’asmyoldfriendstheSpaniardsusedtosay。"ScarcelyhadIsaidthesewordswhenI
  observedamanandawomancomingtowardsthebridgeinthedirectioninwhichIwasbound。Ihastenedtomeettheminthehopeofobtaininginformation。Theywerebothratheryoung,andwereprobablyacoupleofsweetheartstakingawalkorreturningfrommeeting。Thewomanwasafewstepsinadvanceoftheman;
  seeingthatIwasabouttoaddressher,sheavertedherheadandquickenedhersteps,andbeforeIhadcompletedthequestion,whichIputtoherinWelsh,shehadboltedpastmescreaming"AhDimSeasneg,"andwasseveralyardsdistant。
  Ithenaddressedmyselftothemanwhohadstopped,askinghimthenameofthebridge。
  "PontBettws,"hereplied。
  "Andwhatmaybethenameoftheriver?"saidI。
  "Afon—something,"saidhe。
  Andonmythankinghimhewentforwardtothewomanwhowaswaitingforhimbythebridge。
  "IsthatmanWelshorEnglish?"Iheardhersaywhenhehadrejoinedher。
  "Idon’tknow,"saidtheman—"hewascivilenough;whywereyousuchafool?"
  "Oh,IthoughthewouldspeaktomeinEnglish,"saidthewoman,"andthethoughtofthathorridEnglishputsmeintosuchaflutter;youknowIcan’tspeakawordofit。"
  TheyproceededontheirwayandIproceededonmine,andpresentlycomingtoalittleinnontheleftsideoftheway,attheentranceofavillage,Iwentin。
  Arespectable—lookingmanandwomanwereseatedatteaatatableinanicecleankitchen。Isatdownonachairnearthetable,andcalledforale—thealewasbroughtmeinajug—Idranksome,putthejugonthetable,andbegantodiscoursewiththepeopleinWelsh。Ahandsomedogwasseatedontheground;suddenlyitlaidoneofitspawsonitsmaster’sknee。
  "Down,Perro,"saidhe。
  "Perro!"saidI;"whydoyoucallthedogPerro?"
  "WecallhimPerro,"saidtheman,"becausehisnameisPerro。"
  "Buthowcameyoutogivehimthatname?"saidI。
  "Wedidnotgiveittohim,"saidtheman—"heborethatnamewhenhecameintoourhands;afarmergavehimtouswhenhewasveryyoung,andtoldushisnamewasPerro。"
  "AndhowcamethefarmertocallhimPerro?"saidI。
  "Idon’tknow,"saidtheman—"whydoyouask?"
  "Perro,"saidI,"isaSpanishword,andsignifiesadogingeneral。IamrathersurprisedthatadoginthemountainsofWalesshouldbecalledbytheSpanishwordfordog。"Ifellintoafitofmusing。"HowSpanishwordsarediffused!WhereveryougoyouwillfindsomeSpanishwordorotherinuse。IhaveheardSpanishwordsusedbyRussianmujiksandTurkishfig—gatherers—I
  havethisdayheardaSpanishwordinthemountainsofWales,andI
  havenodoubtthatwereItogotoIcelandIshouldfindSpanishwordsusedthere。HowcanIdoubtit;whenIreflectthatmorethansixhundredyearsago,oneofthewordstodenoteabadwomanwasSpanish。IntheoldestofIcelandicdomesticSagas,Skarphedin,thesonofNialtheseer,calledHallgerdr,widowofGunnar,aputa—andthatwordsomaddenedHallgerdrthatsheneverrestedtillshehadbroughtabouthisdestruction。Now,whythispreferenceeverywhereforSpanishwordsoverthoseofeveryotherlanguage?IneverheardFrenchwordsorGermanwordsusedbyRussianmujiksandTurkishfig—gatherers。IquestionwhetherI
  shouldfindanyinIcelandformingpartofthevernacular。I
  certainlyneverfoundaFrenchorevenaGermanwordinanoldIcelandicSaga。WhythispartialityeverywhereforSpanishwords?
  thequestionispuzzling;atanyrateitputsmeout—"
  "Yes,itputsmeout!"Iexclaimedaloud,strikingmyfistonthetablewithavehemencewhichcausedthegoodfolkstostarthalfupfromtheirseats。Beforetheycouldsayanything,however,avehicledroveuptothedoor,andamangettingoutcameintotheroom。Hehadaglazedhatonhishead,andwasdressedsomethingliketheguardofamail。Hetouchedhishattome,andcalledforaglassofwhiskey。IgavehimtheseleoftheeveningandenteredintoconversationwithhiminEnglish。InthecourseofdiscourseIlearnedthathewasthepostman,andwasgoinghisroundsinhiscart—hewasmorethanrespectfultome,hewasfawningandsycophantic。Thewhiskeywasbrought,andhestoodwiththeglassinhishand。SuddenlyhebeganspeakingWelshtothepeople;
  before,however,hehadutteredtwosentencesthewomanliftedherhandwithanalarmedair,crying"Hush!heunderstands。"Thefellowwasturningmetoridicule。Iflungmyheadback,closedmyeyes,openedmymouthandlaughedaloud。Thefellowstoodaghast;
  hishandtrembled,andhespiltthegreaterpartofthewhiskeyupontheground。AttheendofabouthalfaminuteIgotup,askedwhatIhadtopay,andonbeingtoldtwopence,Iputdownthemoney。ThengoinguptothemanIputmyrightforefingerveryneartohisnose,andsaid"Dwyoiaithdwyowyneb,twolanguages,twofaces,friend!"ThenafterleeringathimforamomentI
  wishedthepeopleofthehousegood—eveninganddeparted。
  WalkingrapidlyontowardstheeastIsoondrewneartheterminationofthevalley。ThevalleyterminatesinadeepgorgeorpassbetweenMountEilio—whichby—the—byeispartofthechineofSnowdon—andPenDrwsCoed。Thelatter,thatcouchantelephantwithitsheadturnedtothenorth—east,seemsasifitwishedtobarthepasswithitstrunk;byitstrunkImeanakindofjaggyridgewhichdescendsdowntotheroad。Ienteredthegorge,passingnearalittlewaterfallwhichwithmuchnoiserunsdowntheprecipitoussideofMountEilio;presentlyIcametoalittlemillbythesideofabrookrunningtowardstheeast。Iaskedthemiller—woman,whowasstandingnearthemill,withherheadturnedtowardsthesettingsun,thenameofthemillandthestream。"Themilliscalled’ThemilloftheriverofLakeCwellyn,’"saidshe,"andtheriveriscalledtheriverofLakeCwellyn。"
  "Andwhoownstheland?"saidI。
  "SirRichard,"saidshe。"ISirRichardywynperthynytir。MrWilliams,however,possessessomepartofMountEilio。"
  "AndwhoisMrWilliams?"saidI。
  "WhoisMrWilliams?"saidthemiller’swife。"Ho,ho!whatastrangeryoumustbetoaskmewhoisMrWilliams。"
  Ismiledandpassedon。Themillwasbelowtheleveloftheroad,anditswheelwasturnedbythewaterofalittleconduitsuppliedbythebrookatsomedistanceabovethemill。IhadobservedsimilarconduitsemployedforsimilarpurposesinCornwall。A
  littlebelowthemillwasaweir,andalittlebelowtheweirtheriverranfrothingpasttheextremeendoftheelephant’ssnout。
  FollowingthecourseoftheriverIatlastemergedwithitfromthepassintoavalleysurroundedbyenormousmountains。Extendingalongitfromwesttoeast,andoccupyingitsentiresouthernpartlayanoblongpieceofwater,intowhichthestreamletofthepassdischargeditself。Thiswasoneofthemanybeautifullakes,whichafewdaysbeforeIhadseenfromtheWyddfa。AsfortheWyddfaI
  nowbeheldithighabovemeinthenorth—eastlookingverygrandindeed,shininglikeasilverhelmetwhilstcatchingthegloriesofthesettingsun。
  Iproceededslowlyalongtheroad,thelakebelowmeonmyrighthand,whilsttheshelvysideofSnowdonroseabovemeontheleft。
  Theeveningwascalmandstill,andnonoisecameuponmyearsavethesoundofacascadefallingintothelakefromablackmountain,whichfrownedaboveitonthesouth,andcastagloomyshadowfaroverit。
  Thiscataractwasintheneighbourhoodofasingular—lookingrock,projectingabovethelakefromthemountain’sside。Iwanderedaconsiderablewaywithoutmeetingorseeingasinglehumanbeing。
  AtlastwhenIhadnearlygainedtheeasternendofthevalleyI
  sawtwomenseatedonthesideofthehill,onthevergeoftheroad,inthevicinityofahousewhichstoodalittlewayupthehill。ThelakeherewasmuchwiderthanIhadhithertoseenit,forthehugemountainonthesouthhadterminatedandthelakeexpandedconsiderablyinthatquarter,havinginsteadoftheblackmountainabeautifulhillbeyondit。
  Iquickenedmystepsandsooncameuptothetwoindividuals。Onewasanelderlyman,dressedinasmockfrockandwithahairycaponhishead。Theotherwasmuchyounger,woreahat,andwasdressedinacoarsesuitofbluenearlynew,anddoubtlesshisSunday’sbest。Hewassmokingapipe。IgreetedtheminEnglishandsatdownnearthem。Theyrespondedinthesamelanguage,theyoungermanwithconsiderablecivilityandbriskness,theotherinatoneofvoicedenotingsomereserve。
  "MayIaskthenameofthislake?"saidI,addressingmyselftotheyoungmanwhosatbetweenmeandtheelderlyone。
  "ItsnameisLlynCwellyn,sir,"saidhe,takingthepipeoutofhismouth。"Andafinelakeitis。"
  "Plentyoffishinit?"Idemanded。
  "Plenty,sir;plentyoftroutandpikeandchar。"
  "Isitdeep?"saidI。
  "Neartheshoreitisshallow,sir,butinthemiddleandneartheothersideitisdeep,sodeepthatnooneknowshowdeepitis。"
  "Whatisthename,"saidI,"ofthegreatblackmountainthereontheotherside?"
  "ItiscalledMynyddMawrortheGreatMountain。Yonderrock,whichbulksoutfromit,downthelakeyonder,andwhichyoupassedasyoucamealong,iscalledCastellCidwm,whichmeansWolf’srockorcastle。"
  "Didawolfeverlivethere?"Idemanded。
  "Perhapsso,"saidtheman,"forIhaveheardsaythattherewerewolvesofoldinWales。"
  "Andwhatisthenameofthebeautifulhillyonder,beforeusacrossthewater?"
  "That,sir,iscalledCairnDrwsyCoed,"saidtheman。
  "Thestoneheapofthegateofthewood,"saidI。
  "AreyouWelsh,sir?"saidtheman。
  "No,"saidI,"butIknowsomethingofthelanguageofWales。I
  supposeyouliveinthathouse?"
  "Notexactly,sir,myfather—in—lawherelivesinthathouse,andmywifewithhim。Iamaminer,andspendsixdaysintheweekatmymine,buteverySundayIcomehereandpassthedaywithmywifeandhim。"
  "Andwhatprofessiondoeshefollow?"saidI;"isheafisherman?"
  "Fisherman!"saidtheelderlymancontemptuously,"notI。IamtheSnowdonRanger。"
  "Andwhatisthat?"saidI。
  Theelderlymantossedhisheadproudly,andmadenoreply。
  "Arangermeansaguide,sir,"saidtheyoungerman;"myfather—in—
  lawisgenerallytermedtheSnowdonRangerbecauseheisatip—topguide,andhehasnamedthehouseafterhimtheSnowdonRanger。HeentertainsgentlemeninitwhoputthemselvesunderhisguidanceinordertoascendSnowdonandtoseethecountry。"
  "Thereissomedifferenceinyourprofessions,"said"hedealsinheights,youindepths,both,however,arebreak—neckytrades。"
  "Irunmoreriskfromgunpowderthananythingelse,"saidtheyoungerman。"Iamaslate—miner,andamcontinuallyblasting。I
  have,however,hadmyfalls。Areyougoingfarto—night,sir?"
  "IamgoingtoBethGelert,"saidI。
  "Agoodsixmiles,sir,fromhere。DoyoucomefromCaernarvon?"
  "Fartherthanthat,"saidI。"IcomefromBangor。"
  "To—day,sir,andwalking?"
  "To—day,andwalking。"
  "Youmustberathertired,sir,youcamealongthevalleyveryslowly。"
  "Iamnotintheslightestdegreetired,"saidI;"whenIstartfromhere,Ishallputonmybestpace,andsoongettoBethGelert。"
  "Anybodycangetalongoverlevelground,"saidtheoldman,laconically。
  "Notwithequalswiftness,"saidI。"Idoassureyou,friend,tobeabletomoveatagoodswingingpaceoverlevelgroundissomethingnottobesneezedat。Not,"saidI,liftingupmyvoice,"thatIwouldforamomentcomparewalkingonthelevelgroundtomountainranging,pacingalongtheroadtospringingupcragslikeamountaingoat,orassertthatevenPowellhimself,thefirstofallroadwalkers,wasentitledtosobrightawreathoffameastheSnowdonRanger。"
  "Won’tyouwalkin,sir?"saidtheelderlyman。
  "No,Ithankyou,"saidI,"Iprefersittingoutheregazingonthelakeandthenoblemountains。"
  "Iwishyouwould,sir,"saidtheelderlyman,"andtakeaglassofsomething;Iwillchargeyounothing。"
  "Thankyou,"saidI,"Iaminwantofnothing,andshallpresentlystart。DomanypeopleascendSnowdonfromyourhouse?"
  "NotsomanyasIcouldwish,"saidtheranger;"peopleingeneralpreferascendingSnowdonfromthattrumperyplaceBethGelert;butthosewhodoarefools—beggingyourhonour’spardon。TheplacetoascendSnowdonfromismyhouse。ThewayfrommyhouseupSnowdoniswonderfulfortheromanticscenerywhichitaffords;
  thatfromBethGelertcan’tbenamedinthesamedaywithitforscenery;moreover,frommyhouseyoumayhavethebestguideinWales;whereastheguidesofBethGelert—butIsaynothing。IfyourhonourisboundfortheWyddfa,asIsupposeyouare,youhadbetterstartfrommyhouseto—morrowundermyguidance。"
  "IhavealreadybeenuptheWyddfafromLlanberis,"saidI,"andamnowgoingthroughBethGelerttoLlangollen,wheremyfamilyare;
  wereIgoingupSnowdonagainIshouldmostcertainlystartfromyourhouseunderyourguidance,andwereInotinahurryatpresent,Iwouldcertainlytakeupmyquartershereforaweek,andeverydaysnakeexcursionswithyouintotherecessesofEryri。I
  supposeyouareacquaintedwithallthesecretsofthehills?"
  "Trusttheoldrangerforthat,yourhonour。Iwouldshowyourhonourtheblacklakeinthefrightfulhollowinwhichthefisheshavemonstrousheadsandlittlebodies,thelakeonwhichneitherswan,ducknoranykindofwildfowlwaseverseentolight。ThenI
  wouldshowyourhonourthefountainofthehoppingcreatures,where,where—"
  "WereyoueveratthatWolf’scrag,thatCastellyCidwm?"saidI。
  "Can’tsayIeverwas,yourhonour。Youseeitliessocloseby,justacrossthelake,that—"
  "Youthoughtyoucouldseeitanyday,andsoneverwent,"saidI。
  "Canyoutellmewhetherthereareanyruinsuponit?"
  "Ican’t,yourhonour。"
  "Ishouldn’twonder,"saidI,"ifinoldtimesitwasthestrongholdofsomerobber—chieftain;cidwmintheoldWelshisfrequentlyappliedtoaferociousman。CastellCidwm,Ishouldthink,ratheroughttobetranslatedtherobber’scastlethanthewolf’srock。IfIevercomeintothesepartsagainyouandIwillvisitittogether,andseewhatkindofplaceitis。Nowfarewell!
  Itisgettinglate。"Ithendeparted。
  "Whatanicegentleman!"saidtheyoungerman,whenIwasafewyardsdistant。
  "Ineversawanicergentleman,"saidtheoldranger。
  Ispedalong,Snowdononmyleft,thelakeonmyright,andthetipofamountainpeakrightbeforemeintheeast。AfteralittletimeIlookedback;whatascene!Thesilverlakeandtheshadowymountainoveritssouthernsidelookingnow,methought,verymuchlikeGibraltar。Ilingeredandlingered,gazingandgazing,andatlastonlybyanefforttoremyselfaway。Theeveninghadnowbecomedelightfullycoolinthislandofwonders。OnIsped,passingbytwonoisybrookscomingfromSnowdontopaytributetothelake。AndnowIhadleftthelakeandthevalleybehind,andwasascendingahill。AsIgaineditssummit,uprosethemoontocheermyway。Inalittletime,awildstonygorgeconfrontedme,astreamrandownthegorgewithhollowroar,abridgelayacrossit。IaskedafigurewhomIsawstandingbythebridgetheplace’sname。"Rhyddu"—theblackford—Icrossedthebridge。ThevoiceoftheMethodistwasyellingfromalittlechapelonmyleft。
  Iwenttothedoorandlistened:"WhenthesinnertakesholdofGod,Godtakesholdofthesinner。"Thevoicewasfrightfullyhoarse。Ipassedon:nightfellfastaroundme,andthemountaintothesouth—east,towardswhichIwastending,lookedblacklygrand。AndnowIcametoamilestoneonwhichIreadwithdifficulty:"ThreemilestoBethGelert。"Thewayforsometimehadbeenupward,butnowitwasdownward。Ireachedatorrent,whichcomingfromthenorth—westrushedunderabridge,overwhichIpassed。ThetorrentattendedmeonmyrighthandthewholewaytoBethGelert。Thedescentnowbecameveryrapid。Ipassedapinewoodonmyleft,andproceededformorethantwomilesatatremendousrate。Ithencametoawood—thiswoodwasjustaboveBethGelert—proceedinginthedirectionofablackmountain,I
  foundmyselfamongsthouses,atthebottomofavalley。Ipassedoverabridge,andinquiringofsomepeoplewhomImetthewaytotheinn,wasshownanedificebrilliantlylightedup,whichI
  entered。
  CHAPTERXLV
  InnatBethGelert—DelectableCompany—LieutenantP—。
  THEinnorhotelatBethGelertwasalargeandcommodiousbuilding,andwasanythingbutthrongedwithcompany;whatcompany,however,therewas,wasdisagreeableenough,perhapsmoresothanthatinwhichIhadbeentheprecedingevening,whichwascomposedofthescumofManchesterandLiverpool;thecompanyamongstwhichInowwas,consistedofsevenoreightindividuals,twoofthemweremilitarypuppies,oneatallishfellow,whothoughevidentlyupwardsofthirty,affectedtheairsofalanguishinggirl,andwouldfainhavemadepeoplebelievethathewasdyingofENNUIandlassitude。Theotherwasashortspuddyfellow,withabroaduglyfaceandwithspectaclesonhisnose,whotalkedveryconsequentiallyabout"theservice"andallthat,butwhosetoneofvoicewascoarseandhismannerthatofanunder—bredperson;thentherewasanoldfellowaboutsixty—five,acivilian,witharedcarbuncledface;hewasfatherofthespuddymilitarypuppy,onwhomheoccasionallycasteyesofprideandalmostadoration,andwhosesayingshemuchapplauded,especiallycertainDOUBLES
  ENTENDRES,tocallthembynoharsherterm,directedtoafatgirl,weighingsomefifteenstone,whoofficiatedinthecoffee—roomaswaiter。ThentherewasacreaturetodojusticetowhoseappearancewouldrequirethepencilofaHogarth。Hewasaboutfivefeetthreeinchesandaquarterhigh,andmighthaveweighed,alwaysprovidedastoneweighthadbeenattachedtohim,abouthalfasmuchasthefatgirl。Hiscountenancewascadaverousandwaseternallyagitatedbysomethingbetweenagrinandasimper。Hewasdressedinastyleofsuperfinegentility,andhisskeletonfingerswerebedizenedwithtawdryrings。Hisconversationwaschieflyabouthisbileandhissecretions,theefficacyoflicoriceinproducingacertaineffect,andtheexpediencyofchangingone’slinenatleastthreetimesaday;thoughhadhechangedhissix,I
  shouldhavesaidthatthepurificationofthelastshirtwouldhavebeennosinecuretothelaundress。HisaccentwasdecidedlyScotch:hespokefamiliarlyofScottandoneortwootherScotchworthies,andmorethanonceinsinuatedthathewasamemberofParliament。WithrespecttotherestofthecompanyIsaynothing,andfortheverysufficientreasonthat,unliketheabovedescribedbatch,theydidnotseemdisposedtobeimpertinenttowardsme。
  EagertogetoutofsuchsocietyIretiredearlytobed。AsIlefttheroomthediminutiveScotchindividualwasdescribingtotheoldsimpleton,whoonthegroundoftheother’sbeinga"member,"waslisteningtohimwithextremeattention,howhewaslabouringunderanaccessofbileowingtohishavinglefthislicoricesomewhereorother。Ipassedaquietnight,andinthemorningbreakfasted,paidmybill,anddeparted。AsIwentoutofthecoffee—roomthespuddy,broad—facedmilitarypuppywithspectacleswasvociferatingtothelanguishingmilitarypuppy,andtohisoldsimpletonofafather,whowaslisteningtohimwithhisusuallookofundisguisedadmiration,abouttheabsolutenecessityofkickingLieutenantP—
  outofthearmyforhavingdisgraced"theservice。"PoorP—,whoseonlycrimewastryingtodefendhimselfwithfistandcandlestickfromthemanualattacksofhisbrutalmessmates。
  CHAPTERXLVI
  TheValleyofGelert—LegendoftheDog—MagnificentScenery—
  TheKnicht—GoatsinWales—TheFrightfulCrag—TemperanceHouse—SmileandCurtsey。
  BETHGELERTissituatedinavalleysurroundedbyhugehills,themostremarkableofwhichareMoelHebogandCerrigLlan;theformerfencesitonthesouth,andthelatter,whichisquiteblackandnearlyperpendicular,ontheeast。Asmallstreamrushesthroughthevalley,andsalliesforthbyapassatitssouth—easternend。
  ThevalleyissaidbysometoderiveitsnameofBeddgelert,whichsignifiesthegraveofCelert,frombeingtheburial—placeofCelert,aBritishsaintofthesixthcentury,towhomLlangelerinCarmarthenshireisbelievedtohavebeenconsecrated,butthepopularandmostuniversallyreceivedtraditionisthatithasitsnamefrombeingtheresting—placeofafaithfuldogcalledCelertorGelert,killedbyhismaster,thewarlikeandcelebratedLlywelynabJorwerth,fromanunluckymisapprehension。Thoughthelegendisknowntomostpeople,Ishalltakethelibertyofrelatingit。
  LlywelynduringhiscontestswiththeEnglishhadencampedwithafewfollowersinthevalley,andonedaydepartedwithhismenonanexpedition,leavinghisinfantsoninacradleinhistent,underthecareofhishoundGelert,aftergivingthechilditsfillofgoat’smilk。Whilsthewasabsentawolffromtheneighbouringmountains,inquestofprey,founditswayintothetent,andwasabouttodevourthechild,whenthewatchfuldoginterfered,andafteradesperateconflict,inwhichthetentwastorndown,succeededindestroyingthemonster。Llywelynreturningateveningfoundthetentontheground,andthedog,coveredwithblood,sittingbesideit。ImaginingthatthebloodwithwhichGelertwasbesmearedwasthatofhisownsondevouredbytheanimaltowhosecarehehadconfidedhim,Llywelyninaparoxysmofnaturalindignationforthwithtransfixedthefaithfulcreaturewithhisspear。Scarcely,however,hadhedonesowhenhisearswerestartledbythecryofachildfrombeneaththefallentent,andhastilyremovingthecanvashefoundthechildinitscradle,quiteuninjured,andthebodyofanenormouswolf,frightfullytornandmangled,lyingnear。Hisbreastwasnowfilledwithconflictingemotions,joyforthepreservationofhisson,andgriefforthefateofhisdog,towhomheforthwithhastened。Thepooranimalwasnotquitedead,butpresentlyexpired,intheactoflickinghismaster’shand。Llywelynmournedoverhimasoverabrother,buriedhimwithfuneralhonoursinthevalley,anderectedatomboverhimasoverahero。FromthattimethevalleywascalledBethGelert。
  Suchisthelegend,which,whethertrueorfictitious,issingularlybeautifulandaffecting。
  Thetomb,orwhatissaidtobethetomb,ofGelert,standsinabeautifulmeadowjustbelowtheprecipitoussideofCerrigLlan:
  itconsistsofalargeslablyingonitsside,andtwouprightstones。Itisshadedbyaweepingwillow,andissurroundedbyahexagonalpaling。Whoisthereacquaintedwiththelegend,whetherhebelievesthatthedogliesbeneaththosestonesornot,canvisitthemwithoutexclaimingwithasigh,"PoorGelert!"
  Afterwanderingaboutthevalleyforsometime,andseeingafewofitswonders,IinquiredmywayforFestiniog,andsetoffforthatplace。Thewaytoitisthroughthepassatthesouth—eastendofthevalley。ArrivedattheentranceofthepassIturnedroundtolookatthesceneryIwasleavingbehindme;theviewwhichpresenteditselftomyeyeswasverygrandandbeautiful。BeforemelaythemeadowofGelertwiththeriverflowingthroughittowardsthepass。BeyondthemeadowtheSnowdonrange;ontherightthemightyCerrigLlan;onthelefttheequallymighty,butnotquitesoprecipitous,Hebog。Truly,thevalleyofGelertisawondrousvalley—rivallingforgrandeurandbeautyanyvaleeitherintheAlpsorPyrenees。AfteralongandearnestviewIturnedroundagainandproceededonmyway。