Ashewasstandingbeforealongbuilding,throughtheopendoorofwhichasoundproceededlikethatofpreaching,Iaskedhimwhatplaceitwas,andwhatwasgoingoninit,andreceivedforanswerthatitwastheNationalSchool,andthattherewasaclergymanpreachinginit。IthenaskediftheclergymanwasoftheChurch,andonlearningthathewas,Iforthwithenteredthebuilding,whereinoneendofalongroomIsawayoungmaninawhitesurplicepreachingfromadesktoaboutthirtyorfortypeople,whowereseatedonbenchesbeforehim。Isatdownandlistened。Theyoungmanpreachedwithgreatzealandfluency。Thesermonwasaveryseasonableone,beingabouttheharvest,andinitthingstemporalandspiritualwereveryhappilyblended。ThepartofthesermonwhichIheard—IregrettedthatIdidnothearthewhole—
lastedaboutfive—and—twentyminutes:ahymnfollowed,andthenthecongregationbrokeup。Iinquiredthenameoftheyoungmanwhopreached,andwastoldthatitwasEdwards,andthathecamefromCaernarvon。ThenameoftheincumbentoftheparishwasThomas。
LeavingthevillageoftheharvestsermonIproceededonmywaywhichlaytothesouth—east。IwasnowdrawingnightothemountainousdistrictofEryri;anoblehillcalledMountEilioappearedbeforemetothenorth;animmensemountaincalledPenDrwsCoedlayoveragainstitonthesouth,justlikeacouchantelephantwithitsheadlowerthanthetopofitsback。AfteratimeIenteredamostbeautifulsunnyvalley,andpresentlycametoabridgeoverapleasantstreamrunninginthedirectionofthesouth。AsIstooduponthatbridgeIalmostfanciedmyselfinParadise;everythinglookedsobeautifulorgrand—green,sunnymeadowslayallaroundme,intersectedbythebrook,thewatersofwhichranwithtinklinglaughteroverashinglybottom。NobleEiliotothenorth;enormousPenDrwsCoedtothesouth;atallmountainfarbeyondthemtotheeast。"Ineverwasinsuchalovelyspot!"Icriedtomyselfinaperfectrapture。"Oh,howgladIshouldbetolearnthenameofthisbridge,standingonwhichIhavehad’Heavenopenedtome,’asmyoldfriendstheSpaniardsusedtosay。"ScarcelyhadIsaidthesewordswhenI
observedamanandawomancomingtowardsthebridgeinthedirectioninwhichIwasbound。Ihastenedtomeettheminthehopeofobtaininginformation。Theywerebothratheryoung,andwereprobablyacoupleofsweetheartstakingawalkorreturningfrommeeting。Thewomanwasafewstepsinadvanceoftheman;
seeingthatIwasabouttoaddressher,sheavertedherheadandquickenedhersteps,andbeforeIhadcompletedthequestion,whichIputtoherinWelsh,shehadboltedpastmescreaming"AhDimSeasneg,"andwasseveralyardsdistant。
Ithenaddressedmyselftothemanwhohadstopped,askinghimthenameofthebridge。
"PontBettws,"hereplied。
"Andwhatmaybethenameoftheriver?"saidI。
"Afon—something,"saidhe。
Andonmythankinghimhewentforwardtothewomanwhowaswaitingforhimbythebridge。
"IsthatmanWelshorEnglish?"Iheardhersaywhenhehadrejoinedher。
"Idon’tknow,"saidtheman—"hewascivilenough;whywereyousuchafool?"
"Oh,IthoughthewouldspeaktomeinEnglish,"saidthewoman,"andthethoughtofthathorridEnglishputsmeintosuchaflutter;youknowIcan’tspeakawordofit。"
TheyproceededontheirwayandIproceededonmine,andpresentlycomingtoalittleinnontheleftsideoftheway,attheentranceofavillage,Iwentin。
Arespectable—lookingmanandwomanwereseatedatteaatatableinanicecleankitchen。Isatdownonachairnearthetable,andcalledforale—thealewasbroughtmeinajug—Idranksome,putthejugonthetable,andbegantodiscoursewiththepeopleinWelsh。Ahandsomedogwasseatedontheground;suddenlyitlaidoneofitspawsonitsmaster’sknee。
"Down,Perro,"saidhe。
"Perro!"saidI;"whydoyoucallthedogPerro?"
"WecallhimPerro,"saidtheman,"becausehisnameisPerro。"
"Buthowcameyoutogivehimthatname?"saidI。
"Wedidnotgiveittohim,"saidtheman—"heborethatnamewhenhecameintoourhands;afarmergavehimtouswhenhewasveryyoung,andtoldushisnamewasPerro。"
"AndhowcamethefarmertocallhimPerro?"saidI。
"Idon’tknow,"saidtheman—"whydoyouask?"
"Perro,"saidI,"isaSpanishword,andsignifiesadogingeneral。IamrathersurprisedthatadoginthemountainsofWalesshouldbecalledbytheSpanishwordfordog。"Ifellintoafitofmusing。"HowSpanishwordsarediffused!WhereveryougoyouwillfindsomeSpanishwordorotherinuse。IhaveheardSpanishwordsusedbyRussianmujiksandTurkishfig—gatherers—I
havethisdayheardaSpanishwordinthemountainsofWales,andI
havenodoubtthatwereItogotoIcelandIshouldfindSpanishwordsusedthere。HowcanIdoubtit;whenIreflectthatmorethansixhundredyearsago,oneofthewordstodenoteabadwomanwasSpanish。IntheoldestofIcelandicdomesticSagas,Skarphedin,thesonofNialtheseer,calledHallgerdr,widowofGunnar,aputa—andthatwordsomaddenedHallgerdrthatsheneverrestedtillshehadbroughtabouthisdestruction。Now,whythispreferenceeverywhereforSpanishwordsoverthoseofeveryotherlanguage?IneverheardFrenchwordsorGermanwordsusedbyRussianmujiksandTurkishfig—gatherers。IquestionwhetherI
shouldfindanyinIcelandformingpartofthevernacular。I
certainlyneverfoundaFrenchorevenaGermanwordinanoldIcelandicSaga。WhythispartialityeverywhereforSpanishwords?
thequestionispuzzling;atanyrateitputsmeout—"
"Yes,itputsmeout!"Iexclaimedaloud,strikingmyfistonthetablewithavehemencewhichcausedthegoodfolkstostarthalfupfromtheirseats。Beforetheycouldsayanything,however,avehicledroveuptothedoor,andamangettingoutcameintotheroom。Hehadaglazedhatonhishead,andwasdressedsomethingliketheguardofamail。Hetouchedhishattome,andcalledforaglassofwhiskey。IgavehimtheseleoftheeveningandenteredintoconversationwithhiminEnglish。InthecourseofdiscourseIlearnedthathewasthepostman,andwasgoinghisroundsinhiscart—hewasmorethanrespectfultome,hewasfawningandsycophantic。Thewhiskeywasbrought,andhestoodwiththeglassinhishand。SuddenlyhebeganspeakingWelshtothepeople;
before,however,hehadutteredtwosentencesthewomanliftedherhandwithanalarmedair,crying"Hush!heunderstands。"Thefellowwasturningmetoridicule。Iflungmyheadback,closedmyeyes,openedmymouthandlaughedaloud。Thefellowstoodaghast;
hishandtrembled,andhespiltthegreaterpartofthewhiskeyupontheground。AttheendofabouthalfaminuteIgotup,askedwhatIhadtopay,andonbeingtoldtwopence,Iputdownthemoney。ThengoinguptothemanIputmyrightforefingerveryneartohisnose,andsaid"Dwyoiaithdwyowyneb,twolanguages,twofaces,friend!"ThenafterleeringathimforamomentI
wishedthepeopleofthehousegood—eveninganddeparted。
WalkingrapidlyontowardstheeastIsoondrewneartheterminationofthevalley。ThevalleyterminatesinadeepgorgeorpassbetweenMountEilio—whichby—the—byeispartofthechineofSnowdon—andPenDrwsCoed。Thelatter,thatcouchantelephantwithitsheadturnedtothenorth—east,seemsasifitwishedtobarthepasswithitstrunk;byitstrunkImeanakindofjaggyridgewhichdescendsdowntotheroad。Ienteredthegorge,passingnearalittlewaterfallwhichwithmuchnoiserunsdowntheprecipitoussideofMountEilio;presentlyIcametoalittlemillbythesideofabrookrunningtowardstheeast。Iaskedthemiller—woman,whowasstandingnearthemill,withherheadturnedtowardsthesettingsun,thenameofthemillandthestream。"Themilliscalled’ThemilloftheriverofLakeCwellyn,’"saidshe,"andtheriveriscalledtheriverofLakeCwellyn。"
"Andwhoownstheland?"saidI。
"SirRichard,"saidshe。"ISirRichardywynperthynytir。MrWilliams,however,possessessomepartofMountEilio。"
"AndwhoisMrWilliams?"saidI。
"WhoisMrWilliams?"saidthemiller’swife。"Ho,ho!whatastrangeryoumustbetoaskmewhoisMrWilliams。"
Ismiledandpassedon。Themillwasbelowtheleveloftheroad,anditswheelwasturnedbythewaterofalittleconduitsuppliedbythebrookatsomedistanceabovethemill。IhadobservedsimilarconduitsemployedforsimilarpurposesinCornwall。A
littlebelowthemillwasaweir,andalittlebelowtheweirtheriverranfrothingpasttheextremeendoftheelephant’ssnout。
FollowingthecourseoftheriverIatlastemergedwithitfromthepassintoavalleysurroundedbyenormousmountains。Extendingalongitfromwesttoeast,andoccupyingitsentiresouthernpartlayanoblongpieceofwater,intowhichthestreamletofthepassdischargeditself。Thiswasoneofthemanybeautifullakes,whichafewdaysbeforeIhadseenfromtheWyddfa。AsfortheWyddfaI
nowbeheldithighabovemeinthenorth—eastlookingverygrandindeed,shininglikeasilverhelmetwhilstcatchingthegloriesofthesettingsun。
Iproceededslowlyalongtheroad,thelakebelowmeonmyrighthand,whilsttheshelvysideofSnowdonroseabovemeontheleft。
Theeveningwascalmandstill,andnonoisecameuponmyearsavethesoundofacascadefallingintothelakefromablackmountain,whichfrownedaboveitonthesouth,andcastagloomyshadowfaroverit。
Thiscataractwasintheneighbourhoodofasingular—lookingrock,projectingabovethelakefromthemountain’sside。Iwanderedaconsiderablewaywithoutmeetingorseeingasinglehumanbeing。
AtlastwhenIhadnearlygainedtheeasternendofthevalleyI
sawtwomenseatedonthesideofthehill,onthevergeoftheroad,inthevicinityofahousewhichstoodalittlewayupthehill。ThelakeherewasmuchwiderthanIhadhithertoseenit,forthehugemountainonthesouthhadterminatedandthelakeexpandedconsiderablyinthatquarter,havinginsteadoftheblackmountainabeautifulhillbeyondit。
Iquickenedmystepsandsooncameuptothetwoindividuals。Onewasanelderlyman,dressedinasmockfrockandwithahairycaponhishead。Theotherwasmuchyounger,woreahat,andwasdressedinacoarsesuitofbluenearlynew,anddoubtlesshisSunday’sbest。Hewassmokingapipe。IgreetedtheminEnglishandsatdownnearthem。Theyrespondedinthesamelanguage,theyoungermanwithconsiderablecivilityandbriskness,theotherinatoneofvoicedenotingsomereserve。
"MayIaskthenameofthislake?"saidI,addressingmyselftotheyoungmanwhosatbetweenmeandtheelderlyone。
"ItsnameisLlynCwellyn,sir,"saidhe,takingthepipeoutofhismouth。"Andafinelakeitis。"
"Plentyoffishinit?"Idemanded。
"Plenty,sir;plentyoftroutandpikeandchar。"
"Isitdeep?"saidI。
"Neartheshoreitisshallow,sir,butinthemiddleandneartheothersideitisdeep,sodeepthatnooneknowshowdeepitis。"
"Whatisthename,"saidI,"ofthegreatblackmountainthereontheotherside?"
"ItiscalledMynyddMawrortheGreatMountain。Yonderrock,whichbulksoutfromit,downthelakeyonder,andwhichyoupassedasyoucamealong,iscalledCastellCidwm,whichmeansWolf’srockorcastle。"
"Didawolfeverlivethere?"Idemanded。
"Perhapsso,"saidtheman,"forIhaveheardsaythattherewerewolvesofoldinWales。"
"Andwhatisthenameofthebeautifulhillyonder,beforeusacrossthewater?"
"That,sir,iscalledCairnDrwsyCoed,"saidtheman。
"Thestoneheapofthegateofthewood,"saidI。
"AreyouWelsh,sir?"saidtheman。
"No,"saidI,"butIknowsomethingofthelanguageofWales。I
supposeyouliveinthathouse?"
"Notexactly,sir,myfather—in—lawherelivesinthathouse,andmywifewithhim。Iamaminer,andspendsixdaysintheweekatmymine,buteverySundayIcomehereandpassthedaywithmywifeandhim。"
"Andwhatprofessiondoeshefollow?"saidI;"isheafisherman?"
"Fisherman!"saidtheelderlymancontemptuously,"notI。IamtheSnowdonRanger。"
"Andwhatisthat?"saidI。
Theelderlymantossedhisheadproudly,andmadenoreply。
"Arangermeansaguide,sir,"saidtheyoungerman;"myfather—in—
lawisgenerallytermedtheSnowdonRangerbecauseheisatip—topguide,andhehasnamedthehouseafterhimtheSnowdonRanger。HeentertainsgentlemeninitwhoputthemselvesunderhisguidanceinordertoascendSnowdonandtoseethecountry。"
"Thereissomedifferenceinyourprofessions,"said"hedealsinheights,youindepths,both,however,arebreak—neckytrades。"
"Irunmoreriskfromgunpowderthananythingelse,"saidtheyoungerman。"Iamaslate—miner,andamcontinuallyblasting。I
have,however,hadmyfalls。Areyougoingfarto—night,sir?"
"IamgoingtoBethGelert,"saidI。
"Agoodsixmiles,sir,fromhere。DoyoucomefromCaernarvon?"
"Fartherthanthat,"saidI。"IcomefromBangor。"
"To—day,sir,andwalking?"
"To—day,andwalking。"
"Youmustberathertired,sir,youcamealongthevalleyveryslowly。"
"Iamnotintheslightestdegreetired,"saidI;"whenIstartfromhere,Ishallputonmybestpace,andsoongettoBethGelert。"
"Anybodycangetalongoverlevelground,"saidtheoldman,laconically。
"Notwithequalswiftness,"saidI。"Idoassureyou,friend,tobeabletomoveatagoodswingingpaceoverlevelgroundissomethingnottobesneezedat。Not,"saidI,liftingupmyvoice,"thatIwouldforamomentcomparewalkingonthelevelgroundtomountainranging,pacingalongtheroadtospringingupcragslikeamountaingoat,orassertthatevenPowellhimself,thefirstofallroadwalkers,wasentitledtosobrightawreathoffameastheSnowdonRanger。"
"Won’tyouwalkin,sir?"saidtheelderlyman。
"No,Ithankyou,"saidI,"Iprefersittingoutheregazingonthelakeandthenoblemountains。"
"Iwishyouwould,sir,"saidtheelderlyman,"andtakeaglassofsomething;Iwillchargeyounothing。"
"Thankyou,"saidI,"Iaminwantofnothing,andshallpresentlystart。DomanypeopleascendSnowdonfromyourhouse?"
"NotsomanyasIcouldwish,"saidtheranger;"peopleingeneralpreferascendingSnowdonfromthattrumperyplaceBethGelert;butthosewhodoarefools—beggingyourhonour’spardon。TheplacetoascendSnowdonfromismyhouse。ThewayfrommyhouseupSnowdoniswonderfulfortheromanticscenerywhichitaffords;
thatfromBethGelertcan’tbenamedinthesamedaywithitforscenery;moreover,frommyhouseyoumayhavethebestguideinWales;whereastheguidesofBethGelert—butIsaynothing。IfyourhonourisboundfortheWyddfa,asIsupposeyouare,youhadbetterstartfrommyhouseto—morrowundermyguidance。"
"IhavealreadybeenuptheWyddfafromLlanberis,"saidI,"andamnowgoingthroughBethGelerttoLlangollen,wheremyfamilyare;
wereIgoingupSnowdonagainIshouldmostcertainlystartfromyourhouseunderyourguidance,andwereInotinahurryatpresent,Iwouldcertainlytakeupmyquartershereforaweek,andeverydaysnakeexcursionswithyouintotherecessesofEryri。I
supposeyouareacquaintedwithallthesecretsofthehills?"
"Trusttheoldrangerforthat,yourhonour。Iwouldshowyourhonourtheblacklakeinthefrightfulhollowinwhichthefisheshavemonstrousheadsandlittlebodies,thelakeonwhichneitherswan,ducknoranykindofwildfowlwaseverseentolight。ThenI
wouldshowyourhonourthefountainofthehoppingcreatures,where,where—"
"WereyoueveratthatWolf’scrag,thatCastellyCidwm?"saidI。
"Can’tsayIeverwas,yourhonour。Youseeitliessocloseby,justacrossthelake,that—"
"Youthoughtyoucouldseeitanyday,andsoneverwent,"saidI。
"Canyoutellmewhetherthereareanyruinsuponit?"
"Ican’t,yourhonour。"
"Ishouldn’twonder,"saidI,"ifinoldtimesitwasthestrongholdofsomerobber—chieftain;cidwmintheoldWelshisfrequentlyappliedtoaferociousman。CastellCidwm,Ishouldthink,ratheroughttobetranslatedtherobber’scastlethanthewolf’srock。IfIevercomeintothesepartsagainyouandIwillvisitittogether,andseewhatkindofplaceitis。Nowfarewell!
Itisgettinglate。"Ithendeparted。
"Whatanicegentleman!"saidtheyoungerman,whenIwasafewyardsdistant。
"Ineversawanicergentleman,"saidtheoldranger。
Ispedalong,Snowdononmyleft,thelakeonmyright,andthetipofamountainpeakrightbeforemeintheeast。AfteralittletimeIlookedback;whatascene!Thesilverlakeandtheshadowymountainoveritssouthernsidelookingnow,methought,verymuchlikeGibraltar。Ilingeredandlingered,gazingandgazing,andatlastonlybyanefforttoremyselfaway。Theeveninghadnowbecomedelightfullycoolinthislandofwonders。OnIsped,passingbytwonoisybrookscomingfromSnowdontopaytributetothelake。AndnowIhadleftthelakeandthevalleybehind,andwasascendingahill。AsIgaineditssummit,uprosethemoontocheermyway。Inalittletime,awildstonygorgeconfrontedme,astreamrandownthegorgewithhollowroar,abridgelayacrossit。IaskedafigurewhomIsawstandingbythebridgetheplace’sname。"Rhyddu"—theblackford—Icrossedthebridge。ThevoiceoftheMethodistwasyellingfromalittlechapelonmyleft。
Iwenttothedoorandlistened:"WhenthesinnertakesholdofGod,Godtakesholdofthesinner。"Thevoicewasfrightfullyhoarse。Ipassedon:nightfellfastaroundme,andthemountaintothesouth—east,towardswhichIwastending,lookedblacklygrand。AndnowIcametoamilestoneonwhichIreadwithdifficulty:"ThreemilestoBethGelert。"Thewayforsometimehadbeenupward,butnowitwasdownward。Ireachedatorrent,whichcomingfromthenorth—westrushedunderabridge,overwhichIpassed。ThetorrentattendedmeonmyrighthandthewholewaytoBethGelert。Thedescentnowbecameveryrapid。Ipassedapinewoodonmyleft,andproceededformorethantwomilesatatremendousrate。Ithencametoawood—thiswoodwasjustaboveBethGelert—proceedinginthedirectionofablackmountain,I
foundmyselfamongsthouses,atthebottomofavalley。Ipassedoverabridge,andinquiringofsomepeoplewhomImetthewaytotheinn,wasshownanedificebrilliantlylightedup,whichI
entered。
CHAPTERXLV
InnatBethGelert—DelectableCompany—LieutenantP—。
THEinnorhotelatBethGelertwasalargeandcommodiousbuilding,andwasanythingbutthrongedwithcompany;whatcompany,however,therewas,wasdisagreeableenough,perhapsmoresothanthatinwhichIhadbeentheprecedingevening,whichwascomposedofthescumofManchesterandLiverpool;thecompanyamongstwhichInowwas,consistedofsevenoreightindividuals,twoofthemweremilitarypuppies,oneatallishfellow,whothoughevidentlyupwardsofthirty,affectedtheairsofalanguishinggirl,andwouldfainhavemadepeoplebelievethathewasdyingofENNUIandlassitude。Theotherwasashortspuddyfellow,withabroaduglyfaceandwithspectaclesonhisnose,whotalkedveryconsequentiallyabout"theservice"andallthat,butwhosetoneofvoicewascoarseandhismannerthatofanunder—bredperson;thentherewasanoldfellowaboutsixty—five,acivilian,witharedcarbuncledface;hewasfatherofthespuddymilitarypuppy,onwhomheoccasionallycasteyesofprideandalmostadoration,andwhosesayingshemuchapplauded,especiallycertainDOUBLES
ENTENDRES,tocallthembynoharsherterm,directedtoafatgirl,weighingsomefifteenstone,whoofficiatedinthecoffee—roomaswaiter。ThentherewasacreaturetodojusticetowhoseappearancewouldrequirethepencilofaHogarth。Hewasaboutfivefeetthreeinchesandaquarterhigh,andmighthaveweighed,alwaysprovidedastoneweighthadbeenattachedtohim,abouthalfasmuchasthefatgirl。Hiscountenancewascadaverousandwaseternallyagitatedbysomethingbetweenagrinandasimper。Hewasdressedinastyleofsuperfinegentility,andhisskeletonfingerswerebedizenedwithtawdryrings。Hisconversationwaschieflyabouthisbileandhissecretions,theefficacyoflicoriceinproducingacertaineffect,andtheexpediencyofchangingone’slinenatleastthreetimesaday;thoughhadhechangedhissix,I
shouldhavesaidthatthepurificationofthelastshirtwouldhavebeennosinecuretothelaundress。HisaccentwasdecidedlyScotch:hespokefamiliarlyofScottandoneortwootherScotchworthies,andmorethanonceinsinuatedthathewasamemberofParliament。WithrespecttotherestofthecompanyIsaynothing,andfortheverysufficientreasonthat,unliketheabovedescribedbatch,theydidnotseemdisposedtobeimpertinenttowardsme。
EagertogetoutofsuchsocietyIretiredearlytobed。AsIlefttheroomthediminutiveScotchindividualwasdescribingtotheoldsimpleton,whoonthegroundoftheother’sbeinga"member,"waslisteningtohimwithextremeattention,howhewaslabouringunderanaccessofbileowingtohishavinglefthislicoricesomewhereorother。Ipassedaquietnight,andinthemorningbreakfasted,paidmybill,anddeparted。AsIwentoutofthecoffee—roomthespuddy,broad—facedmilitarypuppywithspectacleswasvociferatingtothelanguishingmilitarypuppy,andtohisoldsimpletonofafather,whowaslisteningtohimwithhisusuallookofundisguisedadmiration,abouttheabsolutenecessityofkickingLieutenantP—
outofthearmyforhavingdisgraced"theservice。"PoorP—,whoseonlycrimewastryingtodefendhimselfwithfistandcandlestickfromthemanualattacksofhisbrutalmessmates。
CHAPTERXLVI
TheValleyofGelert—LegendoftheDog—MagnificentScenery—
TheKnicht—GoatsinWales—TheFrightfulCrag—TemperanceHouse—SmileandCurtsey。
BETHGELERTissituatedinavalleysurroundedbyhugehills,themostremarkableofwhichareMoelHebogandCerrigLlan;theformerfencesitonthesouth,andthelatter,whichisquiteblackandnearlyperpendicular,ontheeast。Asmallstreamrushesthroughthevalley,andsalliesforthbyapassatitssouth—easternend。
ThevalleyissaidbysometoderiveitsnameofBeddgelert,whichsignifiesthegraveofCelert,frombeingtheburial—placeofCelert,aBritishsaintofthesixthcentury,towhomLlangelerinCarmarthenshireisbelievedtohavebeenconsecrated,butthepopularandmostuniversallyreceivedtraditionisthatithasitsnamefrombeingtheresting—placeofafaithfuldogcalledCelertorGelert,killedbyhismaster,thewarlikeandcelebratedLlywelynabJorwerth,fromanunluckymisapprehension。Thoughthelegendisknowntomostpeople,Ishalltakethelibertyofrelatingit。
LlywelynduringhiscontestswiththeEnglishhadencampedwithafewfollowersinthevalley,andonedaydepartedwithhismenonanexpedition,leavinghisinfantsoninacradleinhistent,underthecareofhishoundGelert,aftergivingthechilditsfillofgoat’smilk。Whilsthewasabsentawolffromtheneighbouringmountains,inquestofprey,founditswayintothetent,andwasabouttodevourthechild,whenthewatchfuldoginterfered,andafteradesperateconflict,inwhichthetentwastorndown,succeededindestroyingthemonster。Llywelynreturningateveningfoundthetentontheground,andthedog,coveredwithblood,sittingbesideit。ImaginingthatthebloodwithwhichGelertwasbesmearedwasthatofhisownsondevouredbytheanimaltowhosecarehehadconfidedhim,Llywelyninaparoxysmofnaturalindignationforthwithtransfixedthefaithfulcreaturewithhisspear。Scarcely,however,hadhedonesowhenhisearswerestartledbythecryofachildfrombeneaththefallentent,andhastilyremovingthecanvashefoundthechildinitscradle,quiteuninjured,andthebodyofanenormouswolf,frightfullytornandmangled,lyingnear。Hisbreastwasnowfilledwithconflictingemotions,joyforthepreservationofhisson,andgriefforthefateofhisdog,towhomheforthwithhastened。Thepooranimalwasnotquitedead,butpresentlyexpired,intheactoflickinghismaster’shand。Llywelynmournedoverhimasoverabrother,buriedhimwithfuneralhonoursinthevalley,anderectedatomboverhimasoverahero。FromthattimethevalleywascalledBethGelert。
Suchisthelegend,which,whethertrueorfictitious,issingularlybeautifulandaffecting。
Thetomb,orwhatissaidtobethetomb,ofGelert,standsinabeautifulmeadowjustbelowtheprecipitoussideofCerrigLlan:
itconsistsofalargeslablyingonitsside,andtwouprightstones。Itisshadedbyaweepingwillow,andissurroundedbyahexagonalpaling。Whoisthereacquaintedwiththelegend,whetherhebelievesthatthedogliesbeneaththosestonesornot,canvisitthemwithoutexclaimingwithasigh,"PoorGelert!"
Afterwanderingaboutthevalleyforsometime,andseeingafewofitswonders,IinquiredmywayforFestiniog,andsetoffforthatplace。Thewaytoitisthroughthepassatthesouth—eastendofthevalley。ArrivedattheentranceofthepassIturnedroundtolookatthesceneryIwasleavingbehindme;theviewwhichpresenteditselftomyeyeswasverygrandandbeautiful。BeforemelaythemeadowofGelertwiththeriverflowingthroughittowardsthepass。BeyondthemeadowtheSnowdonrange;ontherightthemightyCerrigLlan;onthelefttheequallymighty,butnotquitesoprecipitous,Hebog。Truly,thevalleyofGelertisawondrousvalley—rivallingforgrandeurandbeautyanyvaleeitherintheAlpsorPyrenees。AfteralongandearnestviewIturnedroundagainandproceededonmyway。