PresentlyIcametoabridgebestridingthestream，whichamantoldmewascalledPontAberGlasLyn，orthebridgeofthedebouchementofthegreylake。Isoonemergedfromthepass，andafterproceedingsomewaystoppedagaintoadmirethescenery。TothewestwastheWyddfa；fullnorthwasastupendousrangeofrocks；behindthemaconicalpeakseeminglyrivallingtheWyddfaitselfinaltitude；betweentherocksandtheroad，whereIstood，wasbeautifulforestscenery。Iagainwenton，goingroundthesideofahillbyagentleascent。AfteralittletimeIagainstoppedtolookaboutme。Therewastherichforestscenerytothenorth，behinditweretherocksandbehindtherocksrosethewonderfulconicalhillimpalingheaven；confrontingittothesouth—east，wasahugelumpishhill。AsIstoodlookingaboutmeI
　　sawamancomingacrossafieldwhichslopeddowntotheroadfromasmallhouse。Hepresentlyreachedme，stoppedandsmiled。A
　　moreopencountenancethanhisIneversawinallthedaysofmylife。
　　"Dydddachwi，sir，"saidthemanoftheopencountenance，"theweatherisveryshowy。"
　　"Veryshowy，indeed，"saidI；"Iwasjustnowwishingforsomebody，ofwhomImightaskaquestionortwo。"
　　"PerhapsIcananswerthosequestions，sir？"
　　"Perhapsyoucan。Whatisthenameofthatwonderfulpeakstickingupbehindtherockstothenorth？"
　　"Manypeoplehaveaskedthatquestion，sir，andIhavegiventhemtheanswerwhichInowgiveyou。Itiscalledthe’Knicht，’sir；
　　andawondroushillitis。"
　　"Andwhatisthenameofyonderhilloppositetoit，tothesouth，risinglikeonebiglump。"
　　"Idonotknowthenameofthathill，sir，fartherthanthatIhavehearditcalledtheGreatHill。"
　　"Andaverygoodnameforit，"saidI；"doyouliveinthathouse？"
　　"Ido，sir，whenIamathome。"
　　"Andwhatoccupationdoyoufollow？"
　　"Iamafarmer，thoughasmallone。"
　　"Isyourfarmyourown？"
　　"Itisnot，sir：Iamnotsofarrich。"
　　"Whoisyourlandlord？"
　　"MrBlicklin，sir。Heismylandlord。"
　　"Isheagoodlandlord？"
　　"Verygood，sir，noonecanwishforabetterlandlord。"
　　"Hasheawife？"
　　"Intruth，sir，hehas；andaverygoodwifesheis。"
　　"Hashechildren？"
　　"Plenty，sir；andveryfinechildrentheyare。"
　　"IsheWelsh？"
　　"Heis，sir！Cumropuriawn。"
　　"Farewell，"saidI；"Ishallneverforgetyou；youarethefirsttenantIeverheardspeakwellofhislandlord，oranyoneconnectedwithhim。"
　　"ThenyouhavenotspokentotheothertenantsofMrBlicklin，sir。
　　EverytenantofMrBlicklinwouldsaythesameofhimasIhavesaid，andofhiswifeandhischildrentoo。Good—day，sir！"
　　Iwendedonmyway；thesunwasverypowerful；sawcattleinapoolonmyright，maddenedwithheatandflies，splashingandfighting。
　　PresentlyIfoundmyselfwithextensivemeadowsonmyright，andawallofrocksonmyleft，onaloftybankbelowwhichIsawgoatsfeeding；beautifulcreaturestheywere，whiteandblack，withlongsilkyhair，andlonguprighthorns。Theywereoflargesize，andverydifferentinappearancefromthecommonrace。ThesewerethefirstgoatswhichIhadseeninWales；forWalesisnotatpresentthelandofgoats，whateveritmayhavebeen。
　　Ipassedunderacragexceedinglylofty，andofveryfrightfulappearance。Ithungmenacinglyovertheroad。Withthiscragthewallofrocksterminated；beyonditlayanextensivestrath，meadow，ormarshboundedonthecastbyaloftyhill。Theroadlayacrossthemarsh。Iwentforward，crossedabridgeoverabeautifulstreamlet，andsoonarrivedatthefootofthehill。Theroadnowtookaturntotheright，thatistothesouth，andseemedtoleadroundthehill。Justattheturnoftheroadstoodasmallneatcottage。Therewasaboardoverthedoorwithaninscription。
　　Idrewnighandlookedatit，expectingthatitwouldtellmethatgoodalewassoldwithin，andread："Teamadehere，thedraughtwhichcheersbutnotinebriates。"Iwasbeforewhatisgenerallytermedatemperancehouse。
　　"Thebilloffaredoesnottemptyou，sir，"saidawomanwhomadeherappearanceatthedoor，justasIwasabouttoturnawaywithanexceedinglywryface。
　　"Itdoesnot，"saidI，"andyououghttobeashamedofyourselftohavenothingbettertooffertoatravellerthanacupoftea。I
　　amfaint；andIwantgoodaletogivemeheart，notwishy—washyteatotakeawaythelittlestrengthIhave。"
　　"Whatwouldyouhavemedo，sir？GladshouldIbetohaveacupofaletoofferyou，butthemagistrates，whenIappliedtothemforalicence，refusedmeone；soIamcompelledtomakeacupoftea，inordertogetacrustofbread。Andifyouchoosetostepin，I
　　willmakeyouacupoftea，notwishy—washy，Iassureyou，butasgoodaseverwasbrewed。"
　　"IhadteaformybreakfastatBethGelert，"saidI，"andwantnomoretillto—morrowmorning。What’sthenameofthatstrange—
　　lookingcragacrossthevalley？"
　　"WecallitCraigyrhyllddrem，sir；whichmeans—Idon’tknowwhatitmeansinEnglish。"
　　"Doesitmeanthecragofthefrightfullook？"
　　"Itdoes，sir，"saidthewoman；"ah，IseeyouunderstandWelsh。
　　Sometimesit’scalledAlltTraeth。"
　　"Thehighplaceofthesandychannel，"saidI；"didtheseaevercomeuphere？"
　　"Ican’tsay，sir；perhapsitdid；whoknows？"
　　"Ishouldn’twonder，"saidI，"iftherewasonceanarmoftheseabetweenthatcragandthishill。Thankyou！Farewell。"
　　"Thenyouwon’twalkin，sir？
　　"Nottodrinktea，"saidI，"teaisagoodthingatapropertime，butwereItodrinkitnow，itwouldmakemeill。"
　　"Pray，sir，walkin，"saidthewoman，"andperhapsIcanaccommodateyou。"
　　"Thenyouhaveale？"saidI。
　　"No，sir；notadrop，butperhapsIcansetsomethingbeforeyouwhichyouwilllikeaswell。"
　　"ThatIquestion，"saidI，"however，Iwillwalkin。"
　　Thewomanconductedmeintoanicelittleparlour，and，leavingme，presentlyreturnedwithabottleandtumbleronatray。
　　"Here，sir，"saidshe，"issomething，whichthoughnotale，Ihopeyouwillbeabletodrink。"
　　"Whatisit？"saidI。
　　"Itis—，sir；andbetterneverwasdrunk。"
　　Itastedit；itwasterriblystrong。Thosewhowishforeitherwhiskyorbrandyfaraboveproof，shouldalwaysgotoatemperancehouse。
　　Itoldthewomantobringmesomewater，andshebroughtmeajugofwatercoldfromthespring。Withalittleofthecontentsofthebottle，andadealofthecontentsofthejug，Imademyselfabeveragetolerableenough；apoorsubstitute，however，toagenuineEnglishmanforhisproperdrink，theliquorwhich，accordingtotheEdda，iscalledbymenale，andbythegodsbeer。
　　Iaskedthewomanwhethershecouldread；shetoldmethatshecould，bothWelshandEnglish；shelikewiseinformedmethatshehadseveralbooksinbothlanguages。Ibeggedhertoshowmesome，whereuponshebroughtmesomehalfdozen，andplacingthemonthetableleftmetomyself。AmongstthebookswasavolumeofpoemsinWelsh，writtenbyRobertWilliamsofBetwsFawr，styledinpoeticlanguage，GwilymDuOEifion。Thepoemswerechieflyonreligioussubjects。ThefollowinglineswhichIcopiedfrom"PethauawnaedmewnGardd，"orthingswritteninagarden，appearedtomesingularlybeautiful：—
　　"Mewngarddycafodddyneidwyllo；
　　Mewngarddyrhoedoddewididdo；
　　MewngarddbradychwydIesuhawddgar；
　　Mewngarddamdowydefmewndaear。"
　　"Inagardenthefirstofourracewasdeceived；
　　Inagardenthepromiseofgracehereceived；
　　InagardenwasJesusbetrayedtoHisdoom；
　　InagardenHisbodywaslaidinthetomb。"
　　Havingfinishedmyglassof"summut"andmytranslation，IcalledtothewomanandaskedherwhatIhadtopay。
　　"Nothing，"saidshe，"ifyouhadhadacupofteaIshouldhavechargedsixpence。"
　　"Youmakenocharge，"saidI，"forwhatIhavehad？"
　　"Nothing，sir，nothing。"
　　"Butsuppose，"saidI，"Iweretogiveyousomethingbywayofpresentwouldyou—"andhereIstopped。Thewomansmiled。
　　"Wouldyouflingitinmyface？"saidI。
　　"Ohdear，no，sir，"saidthewoman，smilingmorethanbefore。
　　Igavehersomething—itwasnotasixpence—atwhichshenotonlysmiledbutcurtseyed；thenbiddingherfarewellIwentoutofthedoor。
　　Iwasabouttotakethebroadroad，whichledroundthehill，whensheinquiredofmewhereIwasgoing，andonmytellinghertoFestiniog，sheadvisedmetogobyaby—roadbehindthehousewhichledoverthehill。
　　"Ifyoudo，sir，"saidshe，"youwillseesomeofthefinestprospectsinWales，getintothehighroadagain，andsaveamileandahalfofway。"
　　ItoldthetemperancewomanIwouldfollowheradvice，whereuponsheledmebehindthehouse，pointedtoaruggedpath，whichwithaconsiderableascentseemedtoleadtowardsthenorth，andaftergivingcertaindirections，notveryintelligible，returnedtohertemperancetemple。
　　CHAPTERXLVII
　　SpanishProverb—TheShortCut—Predestinations—RhysGoch—OldCrusty—Undercharging—TheCavalier。
　　THESpaniardshaveaproverb："Nohayatajosintrabajo，"thereisnoshortcutwithoutadealoflabour。Thisproverbisverytrue，asIknowbymyownexperience，forInevertookashortcutinmylife，andIhavetakenmanyinmywanderings，withoutfallingdown，gettingintoaslough，orlosingmyway。OnthepresentoccasionI
　　lostmyway，andwanderedaboutfornearlytwohoursamidstrocks，thickets，andprecipices，withoutbeingabletofindit。Thetemperancewoman，however，spokenothingbutthetruthwhenshesaidIshouldseesomefinescenery。FromarockIobtainedawonderfulviewoftheWyddfatoweringinsublimegrandeurinthewest，andofthebeautiful，butspectral，Knichtshootinguphighinthenorth；andfromthetopofabarehillIobtainedaprospecttothesouth，nobleindeed—waters，forests，hoarymountains，andinthefardistancethesea。ButallthesefineprospectswereapoorcompensationforwhatIunderwent：Iwasscorchedbythesun，whichwasinsufferablyhot，andmyfeetwerebleedingfromthesharppointsoftherockswhichcutthroughmybootslikerazors。
　　AtlengthcomingtoastonewallIflungmyselfdownunderit，andalmostthoughtthatIshouldgiveuptheghost。Aftersometime，however，Irecovered，andgettinguptriedtofindmywayoutoftheanialwch。Sheergoodfortunecausedmetostumbleuponapath，byfollowingwhichIcametoalonefarm—house，whereagood—
　　naturedwomangavemecertaindirectionsbymeansofwhichIatlastgotoutofthehotstonywilderness，forsuchitwas，uponasmoothroyalroad。
　　"Trustmeagaintakinganyshortcuts，"saidI，"afterthespecimenIhavejusthad。"This，however，Ihadfrequentlysaidbefore，andhavesaidsinceaftertakingshortcuts—andprobablyshalloftensayagainbeforeIcometomygreatjourney’send。
　　IturnedtotheeastwhichIknewtobemyproperdirection，andbeingnowonsmoothgroundputmylegstotheirbestspeed。Theroadbyarapiddescentconductedmetoabeautifulvalleywithasmalltownatitssouthernend。Isoonreachedthetown，andoninquiringitsnamefoundIwasinTanyBwlch，whichinterpretedsignifieth"BelowthePass。"FeelingmuchexhaustedIenteredtheGrapesInn。
　　OnmycallingforbrandyandwaterIwasshownintoahandsomeparlour。ThebrandyandwatersoonrestoredthevigourwhichIhadlostinthewilderness。Intheparlourwasaserious—lookinggentleman，withaglassofsomethingbeforehim。Withhim，asI
　　sippedmybrandyandwater，Igotintodiscourse。Thediscoursesoontookareligiousturn，andterminatedinadispute。Hetoldmehebelievedindivinepredestination；ItoldhimIdidnot，butthatIbelievedindivineprescience。HeaskedmewhetherIhopedtobesaved；ItoldhimIdid，andaskedhimwhetherhehopedtobesaved。Hetoldmehedidnot，andashesaidso，hetappedwithasilvertea—spoonontherimofhisglass。Isaidthatheseemedtotakeverycoollytheprospectofdamnation；herepliedthatitwasofnousetakingwhatwasinevitableotherwisethancoolly。I
　　askedhimonwhatgroundheimaginedheshouldbelost；herepliedonthegroundofbeingpredestinedtobelost。Iaskedhimhowheknewhewaspredestinedtobelost；whereuponheaskedmehowI
　　knewIwastobesaved。ItoldhimIdidnotknowIwastobesaved，buttrustedIshouldbesobybeliefinChrist，whocameintotheworldtosavesinners，andthatifhebelievedinChristhemightbeaseasilysavedasmyself，oranyothersinnerwhobelievedinHim。Ourdisputecontinuedaconsiderabletimelonger。
　　Atlast，findinghimsilent，andhavingfinishedmybrandyandwater，Igotup，rangthebell，paidforwhatIhadhad，andlefthimlookingverymiserable，perhapsatfindingthathewasnotquitesocertainofeternaldamnationashehadhithertosupposed。
　　Therecanbenodoubtthattheideaofdamnationisanythingbutdisagreeabletosomepeople；itgivesthemakindofgloomyconsequenceintheirowneyes。Wemustbesomethingparticulartheythink，orGodwouldhardlythinkitworthHiswhiletotormentusforever。
　　IinquiredthewaytoFestiniog，andfindingthatIhadpassedbyitonmywaytothetown，Iwentback，andasdirectedturnedtotheeastupawidepass，downwhichflowedariver。Isoonfoundmyselfinanotherandverynoblevalley，intersectedbytheriverwhichwasfedbynumerousstreamsrollingdownthesidesofthehills。TheroadwhichIfollowedinthedirectionoftheeastlayonthesouthernsideofthevalleyandledupwardbyasteepascent。OnIwent，amightyhillcloseonmyright。Mymindwasfullofenthusiasticfancies；IwasapproachingFestiniogthebirthplaceofRhysGoch，whostyledhimselfRhysGochofEryriorRedRhysofSnowdon，acelebratedbard，andapartisanofOwenGlendower，wholivedtoanimmenseage，andwho，asIhadread，wasinthehabitofcomposinghispiecesseatedonastonewhichformedpartofaDruidicalcircle，forwhichreasonthestonewascalledthechairofRhysGoch；yes，mymindwasfullofenthusiasticfanciesallconnectedwiththisRhysGoch，andasIwentalongslowly，IrepeatedstanzasoffuriouswarsongsofhisexcitinghiscountrymentoexterminatetheEnglish，andlikewisesnatchesofanabusiveodecomposedbyhimagainstafoxwhohadrunawaywithhisfavouritepeacock，apiecesoaboundingwithhardwordsthatitwastermedtheDrunkard’schokepear，asnodrunkardwaseverabletoreciteit，andeverandanonIwishedIcouldcomeincontactwithsomenativeoftheregionwithwhomIcouldtalkaboutRhysGoch，andwhocouldtellmewhereaboutsstoodhischair。
　　StrollingalonginthismannerIwasovertakenbyanoldfellowwithastickinhishand，walkingverybriskly。Hehadacrustyandratherconceitedlook。IspoketohiminWelsh，andheansweredinEnglish，sayingthatIneednottroublemyselfbyspeakingWelsh，ashehadplentyofEnglish，andoftheverybest。
　　Wewerefromfirsttolastatcrosspurposes。IaskedhimaboutRhysGochandhischair。Hetoldmethatheknewnothingofeither，andbegantotalkofHerMajesty’sministersandthefinesightsofLondon。Iaskedhimthenameofastreamwhich，descendingagorgeonourright，randownthesideofavalley，tojointheriveratitsbottom。Hetoldmethathedidnotknow，andaskedmethenameoftheQueen’seldestdaughter。ItoldhimIdidnotknow，andremarkedthatitwasveryoddthathecouldnottellmethenameofastreaminhisownvale。HerepliedthatitwasnotabitmoreoddthanthatIcouldnottellhimthenameoftheeldestdaughteroftheQueenofEngland：ItoldhimthatwhenI
　　wasinWalesIwantedtotalkaboutWelshmatters，andhetoldmethatwhenhewaswithEnglishhewantedtotalkaboutEnglishmatters。IreturnedtothesubjectofRhysGochandhischair，andhereturnedtothesubjectofHerMajesty’sministers，andthefinefolksofLondon。ItoldhimthatIcarednotastrawaboutHerMajesty’sministersandthefinefolksofLondon，andherepliedthathecarednotastrawforRhysGoch，hischairoroldwomen’sstoriesofanykind。
　　Regularlyincensedagainsttheoldfellow，ItoldhimhewasabadWelshman，andheretortedbysayingIwasabadEnglishman。Isaidheappearedtoknownexttonothing。HeretortedbysayingIknewlessthannothing，andalmostinarticulatewithpassionaddedthathescornedtowalkinsuchilliteratecompany，andsuitingtheactiontothewordsprangupasteepandrockyfootpathontheright，probablyashortcuttohisdomicile，andwasoutofsightinatwinkling。Wewerebothwrong：Imostso。Hewascrustyandconceited，butIoughttohavehumouredhimandthenImighthavegotoutofhimanythingheknew，alwayssupposingthatheknewanything。
　　Aboutanhour’swalkfromTanyBwlchbroughtmetoFestiniog，whichissituatedonthetopofaloftyhilllookingdownfromthesouth—east，onthevalleywhichIhavedescribed，andwhichasI
　　knownotitsnameIshallstyletheValleyofthenumerousstreams。
　　Iwenttotheinn，alargeold—fashionedhousestandingnearthechurch；themistressofitwasaqueer—lookingoldwoman，antiquatedinherdressandratherbluntinhermanner。Ofher，afterorderingdinner，ImadeinquiriesrespectingthechairofRhysGoch，butshesaidthatshehadneverheardofsuchathing，andafterglancingatmeaskew，foramoment，withacuriously—
　　formedlefteyewhichshehad，wentawaymutteringchair，chair；
　　leavingmeinalargeandratherdrearyparlour，towhichshehadshownme。Ifeltveryfatigued，ratherIbelievefromthatunluckyshortcutthanfromthelengthoftheway，forIhadnotcomemorethaneighteenmiles。DrawingachairtowardsatableIsatdown，andplacingmyelbowsupontheboardIleanedmyfaceuponmyupturnedhands，andpresentlyfellintoasweetsleep，fromwhichI
　　awokeexceedinglyrefreshedjustasamaidopenedtheroomdoortolaythecloth。
　　AfterdinnerIgotup，wentoutandstrolledabouttheplace。Itwassmall，andpresentednothingveryremarkable。TiredofstrollingIwentandleanedmybackagainstthewallofthechurchyardandenjoyedthecooloftheevening，foreveningwithitscoolnessandshadowshadnowcomeon。
　　AsIleanedagainstthewall，anelderlymancameupandenteredintodiscoursewithme。Hetoldmehewasabarberbyprofession，hadtravelledalloverWales，andhadseenLondon。IaskedhimaboutthechairofRhysGoch。Hetoldmethathehadheardofsomesuchchairalongtimeago，butcouldgivemenoinformationastowhereitstood。Iknownothowithappenedthathecametospeakaboutmylandlady，butspeakaboutherhedid。Hesaidthatshewasagoodkindofwoman，buttotallyunqualifiedforbusiness，assheknewnothowtocharge。Onmyobservingthatthatwasapieceofignorancewithwhichfewlandladiesorlandlordseitherweretaxable，hesaidthathoweverotherpublicansmightovercharge，underchargingwasherfoible，andthatshehadbroughtherselfverylowintheworldbyit—thattohiscertainknowledgeshemighthavebeenworththousandsinsteadofthetriflewhichshewaspossessedof，andthatshewasparticularlynotoriousforunderchargingtheEnglish，athingneverbeforedreamtofinWales。
　　ItoldhimthatIwasverygladthatIhadcomeundertheroofofsuchalandlady；theoldbarber，however，saidthatshewassettingabadexample，thatsuchgoingsoncouldnotlastlong，thatheknewhowthingswouldend，andfinallyworkinghimselfupintoaregulartiffleftmeabruptlywithoutwishingmegood—night。
　　Ireturnedtotheinn，andcalledforlights；thelightswereplaceduponthetableintheold—fashionedparlour，andIwaslefttomyself。Iwalkedupanddowntheroomsometime。Atlength，seeingsomeoldbookslyinginacorner，Ilaidholdofthem，carriedthemtothetable，satdownandbegantoinspectthem；theywerethethreevolumesofScott’s"Cavalier"—Ihadseenthisworkwhenayouth，andthoughtitatiresometrashypublication。
　　LookingoveritnowwhenIwasgrownoldIthoughtsostill，butI
　　nowdetectedinitwhatfromwantofknowledgeIhadnotdetectedinmyearlyyears，whatthehighestgenius，haditbeenmanifestedineverypage，couldnothavecompensatedfor，basefulsomeadulationoftheworthlessgreat，andmostunprincipledlibellingofthetrulynobleonesoftheearth，becausetheythesonsofpeasantsandhandycraftsmen，stoodupfortherightsofoutragedhumanity，andproclaimedthatitisworthmakesthemanandnotembroideredclothing。Theheartless，unprincipledsonofthetyrantwastransformedinthatworthlessbookintoaslightly—
　　dissipated，itistrue，butuponthewholebrave，generousandamiablebeing；andHarrison，theEnglishRegulus，honest，brave，unflinchingHarrison，intoapseudo—fanatic，amixtureoftherogueandfool。Harrison，probablythemanofthemostnobleandcourageousheartthatEnglandeverproduced，whowhenallwaslostscornedtoflee，likethesecondCharlesfromWorcester，but，bravedinfamousjudgesandthegallows，whowhenreproachedonhismocktrialwithcomplicityinthedeathoftheking，gavethenobleanswerthat"Itwasathingnotdoneinacorner，"andwheninthecartonthewaytoTyburn，onbeingaskedjeeringlybyalord’sbastardinthecrowd，"Whereisthegoodoldcausenow？"thricestruckhisstrongfistonthebreastwhichcontainedhiscourageousheart，exclaiming，"Here，here，here！"Yetforthat"Cavalier，"
　　thattrumperypublication，thebooksellersofEngland，onitsfirstappearance，gaveanordertotheamountofsixthousandpounds。
　　Buttheywerewiseintheirgeneration；theyknewthatthebookwouldpleasethebase，slavishtasteoftheage，atastewhichtheauthoroftheworkhadhadnoslightshareinforming。
　　Tiredafterawhilewithturningoverthepagesofthetrashy"Cavalier"Ireturnedthevolumestotheirplaceinthecorner，blewoutonecandle，andtakingtheotherinmyhandmarchedofftobed。
　　CHAPTERXLVIII
　　TheBill—TheTwoMountains—SheetofWater—TheAfanc—Crocodile—TheAfanc—Beaver—TaiHirion—KindWoman—ArenigVawr—TheBeamandMote—Bala。
　　AFTERbreakfastingIdemandedmybill。Iwascurioustoseehowlittletheamountwouldbe，forafterwhatIhadheardfromtheoldbarbertheprecedingeveningabouttheutterignoranceofthelandladyinmakingacharge，InaturallyexpectedthatIshouldhavenexttonothingtopay。Whenitwasbrought，however，andthelandladybroughtitherself，Icouldscarcelybelievemyeyes。
　　Whethertheworthywomanhadlatelycometoaperceptionofthefollyofundercharging，andhaddeterminedtoadoptadifferentsystem；whetheritwasthatseeingmetheonlyguestinthehouseshehaddeterminedtochargeformyentertainmentwhatsheusuallychargedforthatoftwoorthree—strangeby—the—byethatIshouldbetheonlyguestinahousenotoriousforundercharging—Iknownot，butcertainitistheamountofthebillwasfar，farfromthenexttonothingwhichtheoldbarberhadledmetosupposeIshouldhavetopay，whoperhapsafterallhadveryextravagantideaswithrespecttomakingoutabillforaSaxon。Itwas，however，notaveryunconscionablebill，andmerelyamountedtoatriflemorethanIhadpaidatBethGelertforsomewhatbetterentertainment。
　　Havingpaidthebillwithoutdemurandbiddenthelandladyfarewell，whodisplayedthesamekindofindifferentbluntnesswhichshehadmanifestedthedaybefore，Isetoffinthedirectionoftheeast，intendingthatmynextstageshouldbeBala。PassingthroughatollgateIfoundmyselfinakindofsuburbconsistingofafewcottages。Struckwiththeneighbouringscenery，Istoppedtoobserveit。AmightymountainrisesinthenorthalmostabreastofFestiniog；anothertowardstheeastdividedintotwoofunequalsize。SeeingawomanofaninterestingcountenanceseatedatthedoorofacottageIpointedtothehilltowardsthenorth，andspeakingtheWelshlanguage，inquireditsname。
　　"Thathill，sir，"saidshe，"iscalledMoelWyn。"
　　NowMoelWynsignifiesthewhite，barehill。
　　"Andhowdoyoucallthosetwohillstowardstheeast？"
　　"Wecallone，sir，MynyddMawr，theotherMynyddBach。"
　　NowMynyddMawrsignifiesthegreatmountainandMynyddBachthelittleone。
　　"Doanypeopleliveinthosehills？"
　　"Themenwhoworkthequarries，sir，liveinthosehills。Theyandtheirwivesandtheirchildren。Nootherpeople。"
　　"HaveyouanyEnglish？"
　　"Ihavenot，sir。Nopeoplewholiveonthissidethetalcot（tollgate）foralongwayhaveanyEnglish。"
　　Iproceededonmyjourney。ThecountryforsomewayeastwardofFestiniogisverywildandbarren，consistingofhugehillswithouttreesorverdure。Aboutthreemiles’distance，however，thereisabeautifulvalley，whichyoulookdownuponfromthesouthernsideoftheroad，afterhavingsurmountedaverysteepascent。Thisvalleyisfreshandgreenandthelowerpartsofthehillsonitsfarthersideare，hereandthere，adornedwithgroves。Attheeasternendisadeep，darkgorge，orravine，downwhichtumblesabrookinasuccessionofsmallcascades。Theravineisclosebytheroad。Thebrookafterdisappearingforatimeshowsitselfagainfardowninthevalley，andisdoubtlessoneofthetributariesoftheTanyBwlchriver，perhapstheverysamebrookthenameofwhichIcouldnotlearntheprecedingdayinthevale。
　　AsIwasgazingontheprospectanoldmandrivingapeatcartcamefromthedirectioninwhichIwasgoing。IaskedhimthenameoftheravineandhetoldmeitwasCeunantCoomborhollow—dinglecoomb。Iaskedthenameofthebrook，andhetoldmethatitwascalledthebrookofthehollow—dinglecoomb，addingthatitranunderPontNewydd，thoughwherethatwasIknewnot。Whilsthewastalkingwithmehestooduncovered。Yes，theoldpeatdriverstoodwithhishatinhishandwhilstansweringthequestionsofthepoor，dustyfoot—traveller。WhatafinethingtobeanEnglishmaninWales！