cametoacollectionofhouseswhichanoldwoman，withacrackedvoiceandasmalltinmilk—pail，whomIassistedingettingoverastileintotheroad，toldmewascalledPenStrit—probablytheheadofthestreet。ShespokeEnglish，andonmyaskingherhowshehadlearnttheEnglishtongue，shetoldmethatshehadlearntitofhermotherwhowasanEnglishwoman。ShesaidthatIwastwomilesfromLlanRhyadr，andthatImustgostraightforward。IdidsotillIreachedaplacewheretheroadbranchedintotwo，onebearingsomewhattotheleft，andtheothertotheright。AfterstandingaminuteinperplexityItooktheright—handroad，butsoonguessedthatIhadtakenthewrongone，astheroaddwindledintoamerefootpath。HearingsomeonewalkingontheothersideofthehedgeIinquiredinWelshwhetherIwasgoingrightforLlanRhyadr，andwasansweredbyavoiceinEnglish，apparentlythatofawoman，thatIwasnot，andthatImustgoback。Ididso，andpresentlyawomancamethroughagatetome。
"Areyoutheperson，"saidI，"whojustnowansweredmeinEnglishafterIhadspokeninWelsh？"
"IntruthIam，"saidshe，withahalflaugh。
"AndhowcameyoutoanswermeinEnglishafterIhadspokentoyouinWelsh？"
"Because，"saidshe，"itwaseasyenoughtoknowbyyourvoicethatyouwereanEnglishman。"
"YouspeakEnglishremarkablywell，"saidI。
"AndsodoyouWelsh，"saidthewoman；"IhadnoideathatitwaspossibleforanyEnglishmantospeakWelshhalfsowell。"
"Iwonder，"thoughtItomyself，"whatyouwouldhaveansweredifI
hadsaidthatyouspeakEnglishexecrably。"ByherownaccountshecouldreadbothWelshandEnglish。Shewalkedbymysidetotheturn，andthenuptheleft—handroad，whichshesaidwasthewaytoLlanRhyadr。Comingtoacottageshebademegood—nightandwentin。Theroadwashorriblymiry：presently，asIwasstaggeringthroughaslough，justafterIhadpassedalittlecottage，Iheardacrackedvoicecrying，"Isupposeyoulostyourway？"I
recogniseditasthatoftheoldwomanwhomIhadhelpedoverthestile。Shewasnowstandingbehindalittlegatewhichopenedintoagardenbeforethecottage。Thefigureofamanwasstandingnearher。Itoldherthatshewasquiterightinhersupposition。
"Ah，"saidshe，"youshouldhavegonestraightforward。"
"IfIhadgonestraightforward，"saidI，"Imusthavegoneoverahedge，atthecornerofafieldwhichseparatedtworoads；insteadofbiddingmegostraightforwardyoushouldhavetoldmetofollowtheleft—handroad。"
"Well，"saidshe，"besureyoukeepstraightforwardnow。"
Iaskedherwhothemanwasstandingnearher。
"Itismyhusband，"saidshe。
"HashemuchEnglish？"saidI。
"Noneatall，"saidshe，"forhismotherwasnotEnglish，likemine。"Ibadehergood—nightandwentforward。PresentlyIcametoameetingofroads，andtogostraightforwarditwasnecessarytopassthroughaquagmire；remembering，however，thewordsofmyfriendthebeldameIwentstraightforward，thoughinsodoingI
wasslougheduptotheknees。InalittletimeIcametorapiddescent，andatthebottomofittoabridge。Itwasnowverydark；onlythecornerofthemoonwascastingafaintlight。AftercrossingthebridgeIhadoneortwoascentsanddescents。AtlastIsawlightsbeforemewhichprovedtobethoseofLlanRhyadr。I
soonfoundmyselfinadirtylittlestreet，and，inquiringfortheinn，waskindlyshownbyamantoonewhichhesaidwasthebest，andwhichwascalledtheWynstayArms。
CHAPTERLXV
InnatLlanRhyadr—AlowEnglishman—Enquiries—TheCook—A
PreciousCouple。
THEinnseemedverylarge，butdidnotlookverycheerful。Nootherguestthanmyselfseemedtobeinit，exceptinthekitchen，whereIheardafellowtalkingEnglishandoccasionallyyellinganEnglishsong：themasterandthemistressofthehousewerecivil，andlightedmeafireinwhatwascalledtheCommercialRoom，andputtingplentyofcoalsinthegratesoonmadetheapartmentwarmandcomfortable。Iordereddinnerorrathersupper，whichinabouthalf—an—hourwasbroughtinbythewoman。ThesupperwhethergoodorbadIdespatchedwiththeappetiteofonewhohadwalkedtwentymilesoverhillanddale。
OccasionallyIheardadreadfulnoiseinthekitchen，andthewomantoldmethatthefellowtherewasmakinghimselfexceedinglydisagreeable，chieflyshebelievedbecauseshehadrefusedtolethimsleepinthehouse。Shesaidthathewasalowfellowthatwentaboutthecountrywithfish，andthathewasthemorereadytoinsultherasthemasterofthehousewasnowgoneout。IaskedifhewasanEnglishman，"Yes，"saidshe，"alowEnglishman。"
"Thenhemustbelowindeed，"saidI。"AlowEnglishmanisthelowestofthelow。"AfteralittletimeIheardnomorenoise，andwastoldthatthefellowwasgoneaway。Ihadalittlewhiskyandwater，andthenwenttobed，sleepinginatolerablechamberbutrathercold。Therewasmuchrainduringthenightandalsowind；
windowsrattled，andIoccasionallyheardthenoiseoffallingtiles。
Iaroseabouteight。Notwithstandingthenighthadbeensotempestuousthemorningwassunshinyandbeautiful。HavingorderedbreakfastIwalkedoutinordertolookatthetown。LlanRhyadrisasmallplace，havingnothingremarkableinitsaveanancientchurchandastrangelittleantiquemarket—house，standingonpillars。Itissituatedatthewesternendofanextensivevalleyandattheentranceofaglen。Abrookorrivuletrunsthroughit，whichcomesdowntheglenfromthecelebratedcataract，whichisaboutfourmilesdistanttothewest。Twoloftymountainsformtheentranceoftheglen，andtowerabovethetown，oneonthesouthandtheotheronthenorth。Theirnames，iftheyhaveany，Ididnotlearn。
Afterstrollingaboutthelittleplaceforaboutaquarterofanhour，staringatthethingsandthepeople，andbeingstaredatbythelatter，Ireturnedtomyinn，astructurebuiltinthemodernGothicstyle，andwhichstandsnearlyoppositetothechurchyard。
WhilstbreakfastingIaskedthelandlady，whowasbustlingabouttheroom，whethershehadeverheardofOwenGlendower。
"Intruth，sir，Ihave。Hewasagreatgentlemanwholivedalongtimeago，and，and—"
"GavetheEnglishagreatdealoftrouble，"saidI。
"Justso，sir；atleastIdaresayitisso，asyousayit。"
"Anddoyouknowwherehelived？"
"Idonot，sir；Isupposeagreatwayoff，somewhereinthesouth。"
"DoyoumeanSouthWales？"
"Intruth，sir，Ido。"
"Thereyouaremistaken，"saidI；"andalsoinsupposinghelivedagreatwayoff。HelivedinNorthWales，andnotfarfromthisplace。"
"Intruth，sir，youknowmoreabouthimthanI。"
"DidyoueverhearofaplacecalledSycharth？
"Sycharth！Sycharth！Ineverdid，sir。"
"ItistheplacewhereGlendowerlived，anditisnotfaroff。I
wanttogothere，butdonotknowtheway。"
"Sycharth！Sycharth！"saidthelandladymusingly："IwonderifitistheplacewecallSychnant。"
"Istheresuchaplace？"
"Yes，sure；aboutsixmilesfromhere，nearLangedwin。"
"Whatkindofplaceisit？"
"Intruth，sir，Idonotknow，forIwasneverthere。Mycook，however，inthekitchen，knowsallaboutit，forshecomesfromthere。"
"CanIseeher？"
"Yes，sure；Iwillgoatonceandfetchher。"
Shethenlefttheroomandpresentlyreturnedwiththecook，ashort，thickgirlwithbluestaringeyes。
"Heresheis，sir，"saidthelandlady，"butshehasnoEnglish。"
"Allthebetter，"saidI。"SoyoucomefromaplacecalledSychnant？"saidItothecookinWelsh。
"Intruth，sir，Ido；"saidthecook。
"DidyoueverhearofagwrboneddigcalledOwenGlendower？"
"Often，sir，often；helivedinourplace。"
"HelivedinaplacecalledSycharth？"saidI。
"Well，sir；andweoftheplacecallitSycharthasoftenasSychnant；nay，oftener。"
"Ishishousestanding？"
"Itisnot；butthehillonwhichitstoodisstillstanding。"
"Isitahighhill？"
"Itisnot；itisasmall，lighthill。"
"Alighthill！"saidItomyself。"OldIoloGoch，OwenGlendower’sbard，saidthechieftaindweltinahouseonalighthill。
"’TheredwellsthechiefweallextolIntimberhouseonlightsomeknoll。’
"Istherealittlerivernearit，"saidItothecook，"affrwd？"
"Thereis；itrunsjustunderthehill。"
"Isthereamillupontheffrwd？"
"Thereisnot；thatis，now—buttherewasintheoldtime；afactoryofwoollenstandsnowwherethemilloncestood。"
"’AmillarushingbrookuponAndpigeontowerfram’dofstone。’
"SosaysIoloGoch，"saidItomyself，"inhisdescriptionofSycharth；Iamontherightroad。"
IaskedthecooktowhomthepropertyofSycharthbelongedandwastoldofcoursetoSirWatkin，whoappearstobetheMarquisofDenbighshire。AfterafewmorequestionsIthankedherandtoldhershemightgo。Ithenfinishedmybreakfast，paidmybill，andaftertellingthelandladythatIshouldreturnatnight，startedforLlangedwinandSycharth。
AbroadandexcellentroadledalongthevalleyinthedirectioninwhichIwasproceeding。
Thevalleywasbeautifulanddottedwithvariousfarm—houses，andthelandappearedtobeinashighastateofcultivationasthesoilofmyownNorfolk，thatcountysodeservedlycelebratedforitsagriculture。Theeasternsideisboundedbyloftyhills，andtowardsthenorththevaleiscrossedbythreeruggedelevations，themiddlemostofwhich，called，asanoldmantoldme，BrynDinas，terminatestothewestinanexceedinglyhighandpicturesquecrag。
Afteranhour’swalkingIovertooktwopeople，amanandawomanladenwithbasketswhichhungaroundthemoneveryside。Themanwasayoungfellowofabouteight—and—twenty，witharoundface，fairflaxenhair，andringsinhisears；thefemalewasabloomingbuxomlassofabouteighteen。AftergivingthemtheseleofthedayIaskedthemiftheywereEnglish。
"Aye，aye，master，"saidtheman；"weareEnglish。"
"Wheredoyoucomefrom？"saidI。
"FromWrexham，"saidtheman。
"IthoughtWrexhamwasinWales，"said"Ifitbe，"saidtheman，"thepeoplearenotWelsh；amanisnotahorsebecausehehappenstobeborninastable。"
"Isthatyoungwomanyourwife？"saidI。
"Yes；"saidhe，"afterafashion"—andthenheleeredatthelass，andsheleeredathim。
"Doyouattendanyplaceofworship？"saidI。
"Agreatmany，master！"
"Whatplacedoyouchieflyattend？"saidI。
"TheChequers，master！"
"Dotheypreachthebestsermonsthere？"saidI。
"No，master！buttheysellthebestalethere。"
"Doyouworshipale？"saidI。
"Yes，master，Iworshipsale。"
"Anythingelse？"saidI。
"Yes，master！Iandmymortworshipssomethingbesidesgoodale；
don’twe，Sue？"andthenheleeredatthemort，wholeeredathim，andbothmadeoddmotionsbackwardsandforwards，causingthebasketswhichhungroundthemtocreakandrustle，andutteringloudshoutsoflaughter，whichrousedtheechoesoftheneighbouringhills。
"Genuinedescendants，nodoubt，"saidItomyselfasIwalkedbrisklyon，"ofcertainoftheoldheathenSaxonswhofollowedRagintoWalesandsettleddownaboutthehousewhichhebuilt。
Really，ifthesetwoareafairspecimenoftheWrexhampopulation，myfriendtheScotchpolicemanwasnotmuchoutwhenhesaidthatthepeopleofWrexhamweretheworstpeopleinWales。"
CHAPTERLXVI
Sycharth—TheKindlyWelcome—HappyCouple—Sycharth—RecallingtheDead—OdetoSycharth。
IWASnowatthenorthernextremityofthevalleynearagreathousepastwhichtheroadledinthedirectionofthenorth—east。
SeeingamanemployedinbreakingstonesIinquiredthewaytoSychnant。
"Youmustturntotheleft，"saidhe，"beforeyoucometoyongreathouse，followthepathwhichyouwillfindbehindit，andyouwillsoonbeinSychnant。"
"Andtowhomdoesthegreathousebelong？"
"Towhom？why，toSirWatkin。"
"Doesheresidethere？"
"Notoften。Hehasplentyofotherhouses，buthesometimescomestheretohunt。"
"Whatistheplace’sname？"
"LlanGedwin。"
Iturnedtotheleft，asthelabourerhaddirectedme。Thepathledupwardbehindthegreathouseroundahillthicklyplantedwithtrees。FollowingitIatlengthfoundmyselfonabroadroadonthetopextendingeastandwest，andhavingonthenorthandsouthbeautifulwoodedhills。Ifollowedtheroadwhichpresentlybegantodescend。OnreachinglevelgroundIovertookamaninawaggoner’sfrock，ofwhomIinquiredthewaytoSycharth。Hepointedwestwarddownthevaletowhatappearedtobeacollectionofhouses，nearasingular—lookingmonticle，andsaid，"ThatisSycharth。"
Wewalkedtogethertillwecametoaroadwhichbranchedoffontherighttoalittlebridge。
"Thatisyourway，"saidhe，andpointingtoalargebuildingbeyondthebridge，toweringupaboveanumberofcottages，hesaid，"thatisthefactoryofSycharth；"hethenleftme，followingthehighroad，whilstIproceededtowardsthebridge，whichIcrossed，andcomingtothecottagesenteredoneontherighthandofaremarkablyneatappearance。
Inacomfortablekitchenbyahearthonwhichblazedacheerfulbilletsatamanandwoman。BotharosewhenIentered：themanwastall，aboutfiftyyearsofage，andathleticallybuilt；hewasdressedinawhitecoat，corduroybreeches，shoes，andgreyworstedstockings。Thewomanseemedmanyyearsolderthantheman；shewastallalso，andstronglybuilt，anddressedintheancientfemalecostume，namely，akindofround，halfSpanishhat，longbluewoollenkirtleorgown，acrimsonpetticoat，andwhiteapron，andbroad，stoutshoeswithbuckles。
"Welcome，stranger，"saidtheman，afterlookingmeamomentortwofullintheface。
"Croesaw，dyndieithr—welcome，foreignman，"saidthewoman，surveyingmewithalookofgreatcuriosity。
"Won’tyousitdown？"saidtheman，handingmeachair。
Isatdown，andthemanandwomanresumedtheirseats。
"Isupposeyoucomeonbusinessconnectedwiththefactory？"saidtheman。
"No，"saidI，"mybusinessisconnectedwithOwenGlendower。"
"WithOwenGlendower？"saidtheman，staring。
"Yes，"saidI，"Icametoseehisplace。"
"Youwillnotseemuchofhishousenow，"saidtheman—"itisdown；onlyafewbricksremain。"
"ButIshallseetheplacewherehishousestood，"saidI，"whichisallIexpectedtosee。"
"Yes，youcanseethat。"
"Whatdoesthedyndieithrsay？"saidthewomaninWelshwithaninquiringlook。
"ThatheiscometoseetheplaceofOwenGlendower。"
"Ah！"saidthewomanwithasmile。
"Isthatgoodladyyourwife？"saidI。
"Sheis。"
"Shelooksmucholderthanyourself。"
"Andnowonder。Sheistwenty—oneyearsolder。"
"Howoldareyou？"
"Fifty—three。"
"Dearme，"saidI，"whatadifferenceinyourages。Howcameyoutomarry？"
"ShewasawidowandIhadlostmywife。Wewereloneintheworld，sowethoughtwewouldmarry。"
"Doyoulivehappilytogether？"
"Very。"
"Thenyoudidquiterighttomarry。Whatisyourname？"
"DavidRobert。"
"Andthatofyourwife？"
"GwenRobert。"
"DoesshespeakEnglish？"
"Shespeakssome，butnotmuch。"
"IstheplacewhereOwenlivedfarfromhere？"
"Itisnot。Itistheroundhillalittlewayabovethefactory。"
"Isthepathtoiteasytofind？"
"Iwillgowithyou，"saidtheman。"Iworkatthefactory，butI
neednotgothereforanhouratleast。"
Heputonhishatandbiddingmefollowhimwentout。Heledmeoveragushofwaterwhichpassingunderthefactoryturnsthewheel；thenceoverafieldortwotowardsahouseatthefootofthemountainwherehesaidthestewardofSirWatkinlived，ofwhomitwouldbeaswelltoapplyforpermissiontoascendthehill，asitwasSirWatkin’sground。Thestewardwasnotathome；hiswifewas，however，andshe，whenwetoldherwewishedtogotothetopofOwainGlendower’sHill，gaveuspermissionwithasmile。WethankedherandproceededtomountthehillormonticleoncetheresidenceofthegreatWelshchieftain，whomhisowndeedsandthepenofShakespearhaverenderedimmortal。
OwenGlendower’shillormountatSycharth，unliketheonebearinghisnameonthebanksoftheDee，isnotanartificialhill，buttheworkofnature，saveandexceptthattoacertainextentithasbeenmodifiedbythehandofman。Itissomewhatconicalandconsistsoftwostepsorgradations，wheretwofossesscoopedoutofthehillgoroundit，oneabovetheother，theloweroneembracingconsiderablythemostspace。Boththesefossesareaboutsixfeetdeep，andatonetimedoubtlesswerebricked，asstoutlarge，redbricksareyettobeseen，hereandthere，intheirsides。Thetopofthemountisjusttwenty—fivefeetacross。WhenIvisitedititwascoveredwithgrass，buthadoncebeensubjectedtotheploughasvariousfurrowsindicated。Themonticlestandsnotfarfromthewesternextremityofthevalley，nearlymidwaybetweentwohillswhichconfronteachothernorthandsouth，theonetothesouthbeingthehillwhichIhaddescended，andtheotherabeautifulwoodedheightwhichiscalledintheparlanceofthecountryLlwynSycharthorthegroveofSycharth，fromwhichcomesthelittlegushofwaterwhichIhadcrossed，andwhichnowturnsthewheelofthefactoryandonceturnedthatofOwenGlendower’smill，andfilledhistwomoats，partofthewaterbysomemechanicalmeanshavingbeenforceduptheeminence。OnthetopofthishillormonticleinatimberhousedweltthegreatWelshmanOwenGlendower，withhiswife，acomely，kindlywoman，andhisprogeny，consistingofstoutboysandbloominggirls，andthere，thoughwonderfullycrampedforwantofroom，hefeastedbardswhorequitedhishospitalitywithalliterativeodesverydifficulttocompose，andwhichatthepresentdayonlyafewbook—
wormsunderstand。Therehedweltformanyyears，thevirtualifnotthenominalkingofNorthWales，occasionallynodoubtlookingdownwithself—complaisancefromthetopofhisfastnessontheparksandfish—pondsofwhichhehadseveral；hismill，hispigeontower，hisploughedlands，andthecottagesofathousandretainers，huddledroundthelowerpartofthehill，orstrewnaboutthevalley；andtherehemighthavelivedanddiedhadnoteventscausedhimtodrawtheswordandengageinawar，attheterminationofwhichSycharthwasafire—scathedruin，andhimselfabroken—heartedoldmaninanchorite’sweeds，livinginacaveontheestateofSirJohnScudamore，thegreatHerefordshireproprietor，whomarriedhisdaughterElen，hisonlysurvivingchild。
AfterIhadbeenaconsiderabletimeonthehilllookingaboutmeandaskingquestionsofmyguide，Itookoutapieceofsilverandofferedittohim，thankinghimatthesametimeforthetroublehehadtakeninshowingmetheplace。Herefusedit，sayingthatI
wasquitewelcome。
Itriedtoforceituponhim。
"Iwillnottakeit，"saidhe；"butifyoucometomyhouseandhaveacupofcoffee，youmaygivesixpencetomyoldwoman。"
"Iwillcome，"saidI，"inashorttime。Inthemeanwhiledoyougo；Iwishtobealone。"
"Whatdoyouwanttodo？"
"TositdownandendeavourtorecallGlendower，andthetimesthatarepast。"
Thefinefellowlookedpuzzled；atlasthesaid，"Verywell，"
shruggedhisshoulders，anddescendedthehill。
WhenhewasgoneIsatdownonthebrowofthehill，andwithmyfaceturnedtotheeastbeganslowlytochantatranslationmadebymyselfinthedaysofmyboyhoodofanodetoSycharthcomposedbyIoloGochwhenupwardsofahundredyearsold，shortlyafterhisarrivalatthatplace，towhichhehadbeeninvitedbyOwenGlendower：—
TwicehaveIpledg’dmywordtotheeTocomethynoblefacetosee；
HispromisesleteverymanPerformasfarase’erhecan！
Fulleasyisthethingthat’ssweet，Andsweetthisjourneyisandmeet；
I’vevowedtoOwain’scourttogo，AndI’mresolvedtokeepmyvow；
SothitherstraightI’lltakemywayWithblithesomeheart，andthereI’llstay，Respectandhonour，whilstIbreathe，Tofindhishonour’droofbeneath。
Mychiefoflonglin’dancestryCanharboursonsofpoesy；
I’veheard，forsothemusehastold，He’skindandgentletotheold；
Yes，tohiscastleIwillhie；
There’snonetomatchit’neaththesky：
Itisabaron’sstatelycourt，Wherebardsforsumptuousfareresort；
TheredwellsthelordofPowisland，Whograntetheveryjustdemand。
ItslikenessnowI’lllimnyouout：
’Tiswatergirdledwideabout；
ItshowsawideandstatelydoorReachedbyabridgethewatero’er；
’Tisformedofbuildingscoupledfair，Couplediseverycouplethere；
WithinaquadratestructuretallMusterthemerrypleasuresall。
Conjointlyaretheanglesbound—
Noflawinalltheplaceisfound。
StructuresincontactmeettheeyeUponthehillock’stoponhigh；
IntoeachotherfastenedtheyTheformofahardknotdisplay。
TheredwellsthechiefweallextolIntimberhouseonlightsomeknoll；
UponfourwoodencolumnsproudMountethhismansiontothecloud；
Eachcolumn’sthickandfirmlybas’d，Anduponeachaloftisplac’d；
Inthesefourlofts，whichcoupledstand，Reposeatnighttheminstrelband；
Fourloftstheywereinpristinestate，Butnowpartitionedformtheyeight。
Tiledistheroof，oneachhouse—topRisesmoke—ejectingchimneysup。
AllofoneformthereareninehallsEachwithninewardrobesinitswallsWithlinenwhiteaswellsuppliedAsfairestshopsoffam’dCheapside。
Beholdthatchurchwithcrossuprais’dAndwithitswindowsneatlyglaz’d；
Allhousesareinthiscomprest—
Anorchard’snearitofthebest，AlsoaparkwherevoidoffearFeedantler’dherdsoffallowdeer。
Awarrenwidemychiefcanboast，Ofgoodlysteedsacountlesshost。
Meadswhereforhaytheclovergrows，Corn—fieldswhichhedgestriminclose，Amillarushingbrookupon，Andpigeontowerfram’dofstone；
Afish—ponddeepanddarktosee，Tocastnetsinwhenneedtherebe，WhichneveryetwasknowntolackAplenteousstoreofperchandjack。
Ofvariousplumagebirdsabound；
Heronsandpeacockshauntaround，Whatluxurydothhishalladorn，Showingofcostasovereignscorn；