HisalefromShrewsburytownhebrings;
  Hisusquebaughisdrinkforkings;
  Braggethekeeps,breadwhiteoflook,And,blessthemark!abustlingcook。
  Hismansionistheminstrels’home,You’llfindthemtherewhene’eryoucomeOfallhersexhiswife’sthebest;
  ThehouseholdthroughhercareisblestShe’sscionofaknightlytree,She’sdignified,she’skindandfree。
  Hisbairnsapproachme,pairbypair,Owhatanestofchieftainsfair!
  HeredifficultitistocatchAsightofeitherboltorlatch;
  Theporter’splaceherenonewillfill;
  Herlargessshallbelavish’dstill,Andne’ershallthirstorhungerrudeInSycharthventuretointrude。
  Anobleleader,Cambria’sknight,Thelakepossesses,hisbyright,Andmidstthatazurewaterplac’d,Thecastle,byeachpleasuregrac’d。
  AndwhenIhadfinishedrepeatingtheselinesIsaid,"Howmuchmorehappy,innocent,andholy,IwasinthedaysofmyboyhoodwhenItranslateIolo’sodethanIamatthepresenttime!"ThencoveringmyfacewithmyhandsIweptlikeachild。
  CHAPTERLXVII
  CupofCoffee—Gwen—BluffoldFellow—ARabbleRout—AllfromWrexham。
  AFTERawhileIarosefrommyseatanddescendingthehillreturnedtothehouseofmyhonestfriends,whomIfoundsittingbytheirfireasIhadfirstseenthem。
  "Well,"saidtheman,"didyoubringbackOwenGlendower?"
  "Notonlyhim,"saidI,"buthishouse,family,andallrelatingtohim。"
  "Bywhatmeans?"saidtheman。
  "Bymeansofasongmadealongtimeago,whichdescribesSycharthasitwasinhistime,andhismanneroflivingthere。"
  PresentlyGwen,whohadbeenpreparingcoffeeinexpectationofmyreturn,pouredoutacupful,whichshepresentedtome,atthesametimehandingmesomewhitesugarinabasin。
  Itookthecoffee,helpedmyselftosomesugar,andreturnedherthanksinherownlanguage。
  "Ah,"saidtheman,inWelsh,"IseeyouareaCumro。GwenandI
  havebeenwonderingwhetheryouwereWelshorEnglish;butIseeyouareoneofourselves。"
  "No,"saidIinthesamelanguage,"IamanEnglishman,borninapartofEnglandthefarthestofanyfromWales。Infact,IamaCarnSais。"
  "AndhowcameyoutospeakWelsh?"saidtheman。
  "ItookitintomyheadtolearnitwhenIwasaboy,"saidI。
  "Englishmensometimesdostrangethings。"
  "SoIhaveheard,"saidtheman,"butIneverheardbeforeofanEnglishmanlearningWelsh。"
  Iproceededtodrinkmycoffee,andhavingfinishedit,andhadalittlemorediscourseIgotup,andhavinggivenGwenapieceofsilver,whichshereceivedwithasmileandacurtsey,IsaidI
  mustnowbegoing,"Won’tyoutakeanothercup?"saidGwen,"youarewelcome。"
  "No,thankyou,"saidI,"Ihavehadenough。"
  "Whereareyougoing?"saidthemaninEnglish。
  "ToLlanRhyadr,"saidI,"fromwhichIcamethismorning。"
  "Whichwaydidyoucome?"saidtheman。
  "ByLlanGedwin,"Ireplied,"andoverthehill。Isthereanotherway?"
  "Thereis,"saidtheman,"byLlanSilin。"
  "LlanSilin!"saidI;"isnotthattheplacewhereHuwMorrisisburied?"
  "Itis,"saidtheman。
  "IwillreturnbyLlanSilin,"saidI,"andinpassingthroughpayavisittothetombofthegreatpoet。IsLlanSilinfaroff?"
  "Abouthalfamile,"saidtheman。"Gooverthebridge,turntotheright,andyouwillbetherepresently。"
  Ishookthehonestcouplebythehandandbadethemfarewell。Themanputonhishatandwentwithmeafewyardsfromthedoor,andthenproceededtowardsthefactory。Ipassedoverthebridge,underwhichwasastreamlet,whichalittlebelowthebridgereceivedthebrookwhichonceturnedOwenGlendower’scorn—mill。I
  soonreachedLlanSilin,avillageortownlet,havingsomehighhillsatashortdistancetothewestward,whichformpartoftheBerwyn。
  Ienteredthekitchenofanold—fashionedpublic—house,andsittingdownbyatabletoldthelandlord,ared—nosedelderlyman,whocamebowinguptome,tobringmeapintofale。Thelandlordbowedanddeparted。Abluff—lookingoldfellow,somewhatunderthemiddlesize,satjustoppositetomeatthetable。Hewasdressedinawhitefriezecoat,andhadasmallhatonhisheadsetratherconsequentiallyononeside。Beforehimonthetablestoodajugofale,betweenwhichandhimlayalargecrabstick。Threeorfourotherpeoplestoodorsatindifferentpartsoftheroom。
  Presentlythelandlordreturnedwiththeale。
  "Isupposeyoucomeonsessionsbusiness,sir?"saidhe,asheplaceditdownbeforeme。
  "Arethesessionsbeingheldhereto—day?"saidI。
  "Theyare,"saidthelandlord,"andthereisplentyofbusiness;
  twobadcasesofpoaching,SirWatkin’skeepersareupatcourtandhopetoconvict。"
  "Iamnotcomeonsessionsbusiness,"saidI;"Iammerelystrollingalittleabouttoseethecountry。"
  "HeiscomefromSouthWales,"saidtheoldfellowinthefriezecoat,tothelandlord,"inordertoseewhatkindofcountrythenorthis。Wellatanyratehehasseenabettercountrythanhisown。"
  "HowdoyouknowthatIcomefromSouthWales?"saidI。
  "ByyourEnglish,"saidtheoldfellow;"anybodymayknowyouareSouthWelshbyyourEnglish;itissocursedlybad。Butlet’shearyouspeakalittleWelsh;thenIshallbecertainastowhoyouare。"
  Ididashebademe,sayingafewwordsinWelsh。
  "There’sWelsh,"saidtheoldfellow,"whobutaSouthWelshmanwouldtalkWelshinthatmanner?It’snearlyasbadasyourEnglish。"
  IaskedhimifhehadeverbeeninSouthWales。
  "Yes,"saidhe;"andabadcountryIfoundit;justlikethepeople。"
  "IfyoutakemeforaSouthWelshman,"saidI,"yououghttospeakcivillybothoftheSouthWelshandtheircountry。"
  "Iammerelypayingtitfortat,"saidtheoldfellow。"WhenIwasinSouthWalesyourpeoplelaughedatmyfolksandcountry,sowhenImeetoneofthemhereIservehimoutasIwasservedoutthere。"
  Imadenoreplytohim,butaddressingmyselftothelandlordinquiredwhetherHuwMorriswasnotburiedinLlanSilinchurchyard。Herepliedintheaffirmative。
  "Ishouldliketoseehistomb,"saidI。
  "Well,sir,"saidthelandlord,"Ishallbehappytoshowittoyouwheneveryouplease。"
  Hereagaintheoldfellowputinhisword。
  "YouneverhadaprydyddlikeHuwMorrisinSouthWales,"saidhe;
  "norTwmo’rNanteither。"
  "SouthWaleshasproducedgoodpoets,"saidI。
  "No,ithasn’t,"saidtheoldfellow;"itneverproducedone。Ifithad,youwouldn’thaveneededtocomeheretoseethegraveofapoet;youwouldhavefoundoneathome。"
  Ashesaidthesewordshegotup,tookhisstick,andseemedabouttodepart。Justtheninburstarabbleroutofgame—keepersandriver—watcherswhohadcomefromthepettysessions,andwereinhighglee,thetwopoacherswhomthelandlordhadmentionedhavingbeenconvictedandheavilyfined。Twoorthreeofthemwereparticularlyboisterous,runningagainstsomeoftheguestswhoweresittingorstandinginthekitchen,andpushingthelandlordabout,cryingatthesametimethattheywouldstandbySirWatkintothelast,andwouldneverseehimplundered。Oneofthem,afellowofaboutthirty,inahairycap,blackcoat,dirtyyellowbreeches,anddirtywhitetop—boots,whowasthemostobstreperousofthemall,atlastcameuptotheoldchapwhodislikedSouthWelshmenandtriedtoknockoffhishat,swearingthathewouldstandbySirWatkin;he,however,metaTartar。TheenemyoftheSouthWelsh,likeallcrustypeople,hadlotsofmettle,andwiththestickwhichheheldinhishandforthwithaimedablowatthefellow’spoll,which,hadhenotjumpedback,wouldprobablyhavebrokenit。
  "Iwillnotbeinsultedbyyou,youvagabond,"saidtheoldchap,"norbySirWatkineither;goandtellhimso。"
  Thefellowlookedsheepish,andturningawayproceededtotakelibertieswithotherpeoplelessdangeroustomeddlewiththanoldcrabstick。He,however,soondesisted,andsatdownevidentlydisconcerted。
  "WereyoueverworsetreatedinSouthWalesbythepeopletherethanyouhavebeenherebyyourowncountrymen?"saidItotheoldfellow。
  "Mycountrymen?"saidhe;"thisscampisnocountrymanofmine;norisoneofthewholekit。TheyareallfromWrexham,amixtureofbrokenhousekeepersandfellowstoostupidtolearnatrade;asetofscampsfitfornothingintheworldbuttoswearbodilyagainsthonestmen。TheysaytheywillstandupforSirWatkin,andsotheywill,butonlyinaboxintheCourttogivefalseevidence。
  Theywon’tfightforhimonthebanksoftheriver。Countrymenofmine,indeed!theyarenocountrymenofmine;theyarefromWrexham,wherethepeoplespeakneitherEnglishnorWelsh,notevenSouthWelshasyoudo。"
  Thengivingakindofflourishwithhisstickhedeparted。
  CHAPTERLXVIII
  LlanSilinChurch—TombofHuwMorris—BarbaraandRichard—
  WelshCountryClergyman—TheSwearingLad—Anglo—SaxonDevils。
  HAVINGdiscussedmyaleIaskedthelandlordifhewouldshowmethegraveofHuwMorris。"Withpleasure,sir,"saidhe;"prayfollowme。"Heledmetothechurchyard,inwhichseveralenormousyewtreeswerestanding,probablyofanantiquitywhichreachedasfarbackasthedaysofHenrytheEighth,whentheyewbowwasstillthefavouriteweaponofthemenofBritain。Thechurchfrontsthesouth,theporticobeinginthatdirection。Thebodyofthesacrededificeisancient,butthesteeplewhichbearsagildedcockonitstopismodern。Theinnkeeperledmedirectlyuptothesouthernwall,thenpointingtoabroaddiscolouredslab,whichlayonthegroundjustoutsidethewall,aboutmidwaybetweentheporticoandtheorielend,hesaid:
  "UnderneaththisstoneliesHuwMorris,sir。"ForthwithtakingoffmyhatIwentdownonmykneesandkissedthecoldslabcoveringthecoldremainsofthemightyHuw,andthen,stillonmyknees,proceededtoexamineitattentively。Itiscoveredoverwithlettersthreepartsdefaced。AllIcouldmakeoutoftheinscriptionwasthedateofthepoet’sdeath,1709。"Agreatgenius,averygreatgenius,sir,"saidtheinn—keeper,afterIhadgotonmyfeetandputonmyhat。
  "Hewasindeed,"saidI;"areyouacquaintedwithhispoetry?"
  "Ohyes,"saidtheinnkeeper,andthenrepeatedthefourlinescomposedbythepoetshortlybeforehisdeath,whichIhadheardtheintoxicatedstonemasonrepeatinthepublic—houseofthePandy,thedayIwenttovisitthepoet’sresidencewithJohnJones。
  "DoyouknowanymoreofHuw’spoetry?"saidI。
  "No,"saidtheinnkeeper。"Thoselines,however,IhaveknowneversinceIwasachildandrepeatedthem,moreparticularlyoflatesinceagehascomeuponmeandIhavefeltthatIcannotlastlong。"
  Itisveryoddhowfewoftheversesofgreatpoetsareinpeople’smouths。NotmorethanadozenofShakespear’slinesareinpeople’smouths:ofthoseofPopenotmorethanhalfthatnumber。
  OfAddison’spoetrytwoorthreelinesmaybeinpeople’smouths,thoughIneverheardonequoted,theonlylinewhichIeverheardquotedasAddison’snotbeinghisbutGarth’s:
  "’Tisbestrepentinginacoachandsix。’
  WhilstoftheversesofHuwMorrisIneverknewanyonebutmyself,whoamnotaWelshman,whocouldrepeatalinebeyondthefourwhichIhavetwicehadoccasiontomention,andwhichseemtobegenerallyknowninNorthifnotinSouthWales。
  FromtheflagstoneIproceededtotheporticoandgazeduponitintensely。Itpresentednothingveryremarkable,butithadthegreatestinterestforme,forIrememberedhowmanytimesHuwMorrishadwalkedoutofthatporchattheheadofthecongregation,theclergymanyieldinghisownplacetotheinspiredbard。Iwouldfainhaveenteredthechurch,butthelandlordhadnotthekey,andtoldmethatheimaginedtherewouldbesomedifficultyinprocuringit。Iwasthereforeobligedtocontentmyselfwithpeepingthroughawindowintotheinterior,whichhadasolemnandvenerableaspect。
  "Withinthere,"saidItomyself,"HuwMorris,thegreatestsongsteroftheseventeenthcentury,knelteverySundayduringthelatterthirtyyearsofhislife,afterwalkingfromPontyMeibionacrossthebleakandsavageBerwyn。WithintherewasmarriedBarbaraWynn,theRoseofMaelai,toRichardMiddleton,thehandsomecavalierofMaelor,andwithintheresheliesburied,evenasthesongsterwholamentedheruntimelydeathinimmortalverseliesburiedouthereinthegraveyard。Whatinterestingassociationshasthischurchforme,bothoutsideandin,butallconnectedwithHuw;forwhatshouldIhaveknownofBarbara,theRose,andgallantRichardbutforthepoemontheiraffectionateunionanduntimelyseparation,thedialoguebetweenthelivingandthedead,composedbyhumbleHuw,thefarmer’ssonofPontyyMeibion?"
  AftergazingthroughthewindowtillmyeyeswateredIturnedtotheinnkeeper,andinquiredthewaytoLlanRhyadr。HavingreceivedfromhimthedesiredinformationIthankedhimforhiscivility,andsetoutonmyreturn。
  BeforeIcouldgetclearofthetownIsuddenlyencounteredmyfriendR—,thecleverlawyerandmagistrate’sclerkofLlangollen。
  "Ilittleexpectedtoseeyouhere,"saidhe。
  "NorIyou,"Ireplied。
  "Icameinmyofficialcapacity,"saidhe;"thepettysessionshavebeenheldhereto—day。"
  "Iknowtheyhave,"Ireplied;"andthattwopoachershavebeenconvicted。IcamehereonmywaytoSouthWalestoseethegraveofHuwMorris,who,asyouknow,isburiedinthechurchyard。"
  "Haveyouseentheclergyman?"saidR—。
  "No,"Ireplied。
  "Thencomewithme,"saidhe;"Iamnowgoingtocalluponhim。I
  knowhewillberejoicedtomakeyouracquaintance。"
  Heledmetotheclergyman’shouse,whichstoodatthesouth—westendofthevillagewithinagardenfencedwithanironpaling。Wefoundtheclergymaninanicecomfortableparlourorstudy,thesidesofwhichweredecoratedwithbooks。Hewasasharpclever—
  lookingman,ofaboutthemiddleage。Onmybeingintroducedtohimhewasverygladtoseeme,asmyfriendR—toldmehewouldbe。Heseemedtoknowallaboutme,eventhatIunderstoodWelsh。
  Weconversedonvarioussubjects:onthepoweroftheWelshlanguage;itsmutableletters;onHuwMorris,andlikewiseonale,withanexcellentglassofwhichheregaledme。Iwasmuchpleasedwithhim,andthoughthimacapitalspecimenoftheWelshcountryclergyman。HisnamewasWalterJones。
  Afterstayingabouthalf—an—hourItookleaveofthegoodkindman,whowishedmeallkindofhappiness,spiritualandtemporal,andsaidthatheshouldalwaysbehappytoseemeatLlanSilin。MyfriendR—walkedwithmealittlewayandthenbademefarewell。
  Itwasnowlateintheafternoon,theskywasgreyandgloomy,andakindofhalfwintrywindwasblowing。IntheforenoonIhadtravelledalongtheeasternsideofthevalley,whichIwillcallthatofLlanRhyadr,directingmycoursetothenorth,butIwasnowonthewesternsideofthevalley,journeyingtowardsthesouth。Inabouthalf—an—hourIfoundmyselfnearlyparallelwiththehighcragwhichIhadseenfromadistanceinthemorning。Itwasnowtotheeastofme。Itswesternfrontwasveryprecipitous,butonitsnorthernsideitwascultivatednearlytothesummit。
  AsIstoodlookingatitfromnearthetopofagentleacclivityaboywithateam,whomIhadpassedalittletimebefore,cameup。
  Hewaswhippinghishorses,whowerestraininguptheascent,andwasswearingatthemmostfrightfullyinEnglish。Iaddressedhiminthatlanguage,inquiringthenameofthecrag,butheansweredDimSaesneg,andthenagainfelltocursing;hishorsesinEnglish。
  Iallowedhimandhisteamtogettothetopoftheascent,andthenovertakinghim,IsaidinWelsh:"WhatdoyoumeanbysayingyouhavenoEnglish?YouweretalkingEnglishjustnowtoyourhorses。"
  "Yes,"saidthelad,"IhaveEnglishenoughformyhorses,andthatisall。"
  "YouseemtohaveplentyofWelsh,"saidI;"whydon’tyouspeakWelshtoyourhorses?"
  "It’sofnousespeakingWelshtothem,"saidtheboy;"Welshisn’tstrongenough。"
  "Isn’tMynDiawltolerablystrong?"saidI。
  "Notstrongenoughforhorses,"saidtheboy"ifIweretosayMynDiawltomyhorses,orevenCasAndras,theywouldlaughatme。"
  "Dotheothercarters,"saidI,"usethesameEnglishtotheirhorseswhichyoudotoyours?"
  "Yes"saidtheboy,"they’llallusethesameEnglishwords;iftheydidn’tthehorseswouldn’tmindthem。"
  "Whatatriumph,"thoughtI,"fortheEnglishlanguagethattheWelshcartersareobligedtohaverecoursetoitsoathsandexecrationstomaketheirhorsesgeton!"
  Isaidnothingmoretotheboyonthesubjectoflanguage,butagainaskedhimthenameofthecrag。"ItiscalledCraigyGorllewin,"saidhe。Ithankedhim,andsoonlefthimandhisteamfarbehind。
  Notwithstandingwhattheboysaidaboutthemilk—and—watercharacterofnativeWelshoaths,theWelshhavesomeverypungentexecrations,quiteasefficacious,Ishouldsay,tomakeahorsegetonasanyintheEnglishswearingvocabulary。Someoftheiroathsarecurious,beingconnectedwithheathentimesandDruidicalmythology;forexamplethatCasAndras,mentionedbytheboy,whichmeanshatefulenemyorhorribleAndras。AndrasorAndrastewasthefuryorDemigorgonoftheAncientCumry,towhomtheybuilttemplesandofferedsacrificesoutoffear。CuriousthatthesameoathshouldbeusedbytheChristianCumryofthepresentday,whichwasinvogueamongsttheirpaganancestorssomethreethousandyearsago。However,thesamethingisobservableamongstusChristianEnglish:wesaytheDusetakeyou!evenasourheathenSaxonforefathersdid,whoworshippedakindofDevilsocalled,andnamedadayoftheweekafterhim,whichnamewestillretaininourhebdomadalcalendarlikethoseofseveralotherAnglo—Saxondevils。Wealsosay:GotooldNick!andNickorNikkurwasasurnameofWoden,andalsothenameofaspiritwhichhauntedfordsandwasinthehabitofdrowningpassengers。
  NightcamequicklyuponmeafterIhadpassedtheswearinglad。
  However,IwasfortunateenoughtoreachLlanRhyadr,withouthavingexperiencedanydamageorimpedimentfromDiawl,Andras,Duse,orNick。
  CHAPTERLXIX
  ChurchofLlanRhyadr—TheClerk—TheTablet—Stone—FirstViewoftheCataract。
  THEnightwasbothwindyandrainyliketheprecedingone,butthemorningwhichfollowed,unlikethatofthedaybefore,wasdullandgloomy。AfterbreakfastIwalkedouttotakeanotherviewofthelittletown。AsIstoodlookingatthechurchamiddle—agedmanofaremarkablyintelligentcountenancecameupandaskedmeifI
  shouldliketoseetheinside。ItoldhimIshould,whereuponhesaidthathewastheclerkandwouldadmitmewithpleasure。
  Takingakeyoutofhispocketheunlockedthedoorofthechurchandwewentin。Theinsidewassombre,notsomuchowingtothegloominessofthedayastheheavinessofthearchitecture。Itpresentedsomethingintheformofacross。Isoonfoundtheclerkwhathiscountenancerepresentedhimtobe,ahighlyintelligentperson。Hisanswerstomyquestionswereingeneralreadyandsatisfactory。
  "Thisseemsratheranancientedifice,"saidI;"whenwasitbuilt?"
  "Inthesixteenthcentury,"saidtheclerk;"inthedaysofHarryTudor。"
  "Haveanyremarkablemenbeenclergymenofthischurch?"
  "Several,sir;amongstitsvicarswasDoctorWilliamMorgan,thegreatSouthWelshman,theauthoroftheoldWelshversionoftheBible,whoflourishedinthetimeofQueenElizabeth。ThentherewasDoctorRobertSouth,aneminentdivine,who,thoughnotaWelshman,spokeandpreachedWelshbetterthanmanyofthenativeclergy。Thentherewasthelastvicar,WalterD—,agreatpreacherandwriter,whostyledhimselfinprintGwalterMechain。"
  "AreMorganandSouthburiedhere?"saidI。
  "Theyarenot,sir,"saidtheclerk;"theyhadbeentransferredtootherbeneficesbeforetheydied。"
  IdidnotinquirewhetherWalterD—wasburiedthere,forofhimI
  hadneverheardbefore,butdemandedwhetherthechurchpossessedanyancientmonuments。
  "Thisistheoldestwhichremains,sir,"saidtheclerk,andhepointedwithhisfingertoatablet—stoneoveralittledarkpewontherightsideoftheorielwindow。Therewasaninscriptionuponit,butowingtothedarknessIcouldnotmakeoutaletter。Theclerk,however,readasfollows。
  1694。21Octr。
  HicSepultusEstSidneusBynner。
  "DoyouunderstandLatin?"saidItotheclerk。
  "Idonot,sir;Ibelieve,however,thatthestoneistothememoryofoneBynner。"
  "ThatisnotaWelshname,"saidI。
  "Itisnot,sir,"saidtheclerk。
  "ItseemstoberadicallythesameasBonner,"saidI,"thenameofthehorriblePopishBishopofLondoninMary’stime。DoanypeopleofthenameofBynnerresideinthisneighbourhoodatpresent?"
  "None,sir,"saidtheclerk;"andiftheBynnersaredescendantsofBonner,itis,perhaps,wellthattherearenone。"
  Imadetheclerk,whoappearedalmostfittobeaclergyman,asmallpresent,andreturnedtotheinn。AfterpayingmybillI
  flungmysatchelovermyshoulder,tookmyumbrellabythemiddleinmyrighthand,andsetofffortheRhyadr。
  Ienteredthenarrowglenatthewesternextremityofthetownandproceededbrisklyalong。Thescenerywasromanticallybeautiful;
  onmyleftwasthelittlebrook,thewatersofwhichrunthroughthetown;beyonditaloftyhill;onmyrightwasahillcoveredwithwoodfromthetoptothebottom。Ienjoyedthescene,andshouldhaveenjoyeditmorehadtherebeenalittlesunshinetogildit。
  Ipassedthroughasmallvillage,thenameofwhichIthinkwasCynmen,andpresentlyovertookamanandboy。ThemansalutedmeinEnglish,andIenteredintoconversationwithhiminthatlanguage。HetoldmethathecamefromLlanGedwin,andwasgoingtoaplacecalledGwernsomething,inordertofetchhomesomesheep。AfteratimeheaskedmewhereIwasgoing。
  "IamgoingtoseethePistyllRhyadr,"saidI
  Wehadthenjustcometothetopofarisingground。
  "Yonder’sthePistyll!"saidhe,pointingtothewest。
  Ilookedinthedirectionofhisfinger,andsawsomethingatagreatdistance,whichlookedlikeastripofgreylinenhangingoveracrag。
  "Thatisthewaterfall,"hecontinued,"whichsomanyoftheSaxonscometosee。AndnowImustbidyougood—bye,master;formywaytotheGwernisontheright"
  Thenfollowedbytheboyheturnedasideintoawildroadatthecornerofasavage,precipitousrock。
  CHAPTERLXX
  MountainScenery—TheRhyadr—WonderfulFeat。
  AFTERwalkingaboutamilewiththecataractalwaysinsight,I
  emergedfromtheglenintoanoblongvalleyextendingfromsouthtonorth,havingloftyhillsonallsides,especiallyonthewest,fromwhichdirectionthecataractcomes。Iadvancedacrossthevaletillwithinafurlongofthisobject,whenIwasstoppedbyadeephollowornethervaleintowhichthewatersofthecataracttumble。OnthesideofthishollowIsatdown,andgazeddownbeforemeandoneitherside。Thewatercomesspoutingoveracragofperhapstwohundredfeetinaltitudebetweentwohills,onesouth—eastandtheothernearlynorth。Thesouthernhilliswoodedfromthetop,nearlydowntowherethecataractburstsforth;andso,butnotsothickly,isthenorthernhill,whichbearsasingularresemblancetoahog’sback。Grovesofpineareonthelowerpartsofboth;infrontofagrovelowdownonthenorthernhillisasmallwhitehouseofapicturesqueappearance。Thewaterofthecataract,afterreachingthebottomoftheprecipice,rushesinanarrowbrookdownthevaleinthedirectionofLlanRhyadr。
  Tothenorth—east,betweenthehog—backedhillandanotherstrange—
  lookingmountain,isawildglen,fromwhichcomesabrooktoswellthewatersdischargedbytheRhyadr。Thesouth—westsideofthevaleissteep,andfromacleftofahillinthatquarteraslenderstreamrushingimpetuouslyjoinsthebrookoftheRhyadr,liketherillofthenorthernglen。TheprincipalobjectofthewholeisofcoursetheRhyadr。WhatshallIlikenitto?Iscarcelyknow,unlesstoanimmenseskeinofsilkagitatedanddisturbedbytempestuousblasts,ortothelongtailofagreycourseratfuriousspeed。Throughtheprofusionoflongsilverythreadsorhairs,orwhatlookedsuch,IcouldhereandthereseetheblacksidesofthecragdownwhichtheRhyadrprecipitateditselfwithsomethingbetweenaboomandaroar。
  AftersittingonthevergeofthehollowforaconsiderabletimeI
  gotup,anddirectedmycoursetowardsthehouseinfrontofthegrove。IturneddownthepathwhichbroughtmetothebrookwhichrunsfromthenorthernglenintothewatersdischargedbytheRhyadr,andcrossingitbystepping—stones,foundmyselfonthelowestspurofthehog—backedhill。Asteeppathledtowardsthehouse。AsIdrewneartwohandsomedogscamerushingtowelcomethestranger。ComingtoadooronthenorthernsideofthehouseI
  tapped,andahandsomegirlofaboutthirteenmakingherappearance,IinquiredinEnglishthenearestwaythewaterfall;