HisalefromShrewsburytownhebrings;
Hisusquebaughisdrinkforkings;
Braggethekeeps,breadwhiteoflook,And,blessthemark!abustlingcook。
Hismansionistheminstrels’home,You’llfindthemtherewhene’eryoucomeOfallhersexhiswife’sthebest;
ThehouseholdthroughhercareisblestShe’sscionofaknightlytree,She’sdignified,she’skindandfree。
Hisbairnsapproachme,pairbypair,Owhatanestofchieftainsfair!
HeredifficultitistocatchAsightofeitherboltorlatch;
Theporter’splaceherenonewillfill;
Herlargessshallbelavish’dstill,Andne’ershallthirstorhungerrudeInSycharthventuretointrude。
Anobleleader,Cambria’sknight,Thelakepossesses,hisbyright,Andmidstthatazurewaterplac’d,Thecastle,byeachpleasuregrac’d。
AndwhenIhadfinishedrepeatingtheselinesIsaid,"Howmuchmorehappy,innocent,andholy,IwasinthedaysofmyboyhoodwhenItranslateIolo’sodethanIamatthepresenttime!"ThencoveringmyfacewithmyhandsIweptlikeachild。
CHAPTERLXVII
CupofCoffee—Gwen—BluffoldFellow—ARabbleRout—AllfromWrexham。
AFTERawhileIarosefrommyseatanddescendingthehillreturnedtothehouseofmyhonestfriends,whomIfoundsittingbytheirfireasIhadfirstseenthem。
"Well,"saidtheman,"didyoubringbackOwenGlendower?"
"Notonlyhim,"saidI,"buthishouse,family,andallrelatingtohim。"
"Bywhatmeans?"saidtheman。
"Bymeansofasongmadealongtimeago,whichdescribesSycharthasitwasinhistime,andhismanneroflivingthere。"
PresentlyGwen,whohadbeenpreparingcoffeeinexpectationofmyreturn,pouredoutacupful,whichshepresentedtome,atthesametimehandingmesomewhitesugarinabasin。
Itookthecoffee,helpedmyselftosomesugar,andreturnedherthanksinherownlanguage。
"Ah,"saidtheman,inWelsh,"IseeyouareaCumro。GwenandI
havebeenwonderingwhetheryouwereWelshorEnglish;butIseeyouareoneofourselves。"
"No,"saidIinthesamelanguage,"IamanEnglishman,borninapartofEnglandthefarthestofanyfromWales。Infact,IamaCarnSais。"
"AndhowcameyoutospeakWelsh?"saidtheman。
"ItookitintomyheadtolearnitwhenIwasaboy,"saidI。
"Englishmensometimesdostrangethings。"
"SoIhaveheard,"saidtheman,"butIneverheardbeforeofanEnglishmanlearningWelsh。"
Iproceededtodrinkmycoffee,andhavingfinishedit,andhadalittlemorediscourseIgotup,andhavinggivenGwenapieceofsilver,whichshereceivedwithasmileandacurtsey,IsaidI
mustnowbegoing,"Won’tyoutakeanothercup?"saidGwen,"youarewelcome。"
"No,thankyou,"saidI,"Ihavehadenough。"
"Whereareyougoing?"saidthemaninEnglish。
"ToLlanRhyadr,"saidI,"fromwhichIcamethismorning。"
"Whichwaydidyoucome?"saidtheman。
"ByLlanGedwin,"Ireplied,"andoverthehill。Isthereanotherway?"
"Thereis,"saidtheman,"byLlanSilin。"
"LlanSilin!"saidI;"isnotthattheplacewhereHuwMorrisisburied?"
"Itis,"saidtheman。
"IwillreturnbyLlanSilin,"saidI,"andinpassingthroughpayavisittothetombofthegreatpoet。IsLlanSilinfaroff?"
"Abouthalfamile,"saidtheman。"Gooverthebridge,turntotheright,andyouwillbetherepresently。"
Ishookthehonestcouplebythehandandbadethemfarewell。Themanputonhishatandwentwithmeafewyardsfromthedoor,andthenproceededtowardsthefactory。Ipassedoverthebridge,underwhichwasastreamlet,whichalittlebelowthebridgereceivedthebrookwhichonceturnedOwenGlendower’scorn—mill。I
soonreachedLlanSilin,avillageortownlet,havingsomehighhillsatashortdistancetothewestward,whichformpartoftheBerwyn。
Ienteredthekitchenofanold—fashionedpublic—house,andsittingdownbyatabletoldthelandlord,ared—nosedelderlyman,whocamebowinguptome,tobringmeapintofale。Thelandlordbowedanddeparted。Abluff—lookingoldfellow,somewhatunderthemiddlesize,satjustoppositetomeatthetable。Hewasdressedinawhitefriezecoat,andhadasmallhatonhisheadsetratherconsequentiallyononeside。Beforehimonthetablestoodajugofale,betweenwhichandhimlayalargecrabstick。Threeorfourotherpeoplestoodorsatindifferentpartsoftheroom。
Presentlythelandlordreturnedwiththeale。
"Isupposeyoucomeonsessionsbusiness,sir?"saidhe,asheplaceditdownbeforeme。
"Arethesessionsbeingheldhereto—day?"saidI。
"Theyare,"saidthelandlord,"andthereisplentyofbusiness;
twobadcasesofpoaching,SirWatkin’skeepersareupatcourtandhopetoconvict。"
"Iamnotcomeonsessionsbusiness,"saidI;"Iammerelystrollingalittleabouttoseethecountry。"
"HeiscomefromSouthWales,"saidtheoldfellowinthefriezecoat,tothelandlord,"inordertoseewhatkindofcountrythenorthis。Wellatanyratehehasseenabettercountrythanhisown。"
"HowdoyouknowthatIcomefromSouthWales?"saidI。
"ByyourEnglish,"saidtheoldfellow;"anybodymayknowyouareSouthWelshbyyourEnglish;itissocursedlybad。Butlet’shearyouspeakalittleWelsh;thenIshallbecertainastowhoyouare。"
Ididashebademe,sayingafewwordsinWelsh。
"There’sWelsh,"saidtheoldfellow,"whobutaSouthWelshmanwouldtalkWelshinthatmanner?It’snearlyasbadasyourEnglish。"
IaskedhimifhehadeverbeeninSouthWales。
"Yes,"saidhe;"andabadcountryIfoundit;justlikethepeople。"
"IfyoutakemeforaSouthWelshman,"saidI,"yououghttospeakcivillybothoftheSouthWelshandtheircountry。"
"Iammerelypayingtitfortat,"saidtheoldfellow。"WhenIwasinSouthWalesyourpeoplelaughedatmyfolksandcountry,sowhenImeetoneofthemhereIservehimoutasIwasservedoutthere。"
Imadenoreplytohim,butaddressingmyselftothelandlordinquiredwhetherHuwMorriswasnotburiedinLlanSilinchurchyard。Herepliedintheaffirmative。
"Ishouldliketoseehistomb,"saidI。
"Well,sir,"saidthelandlord,"Ishallbehappytoshowittoyouwheneveryouplease。"
Hereagaintheoldfellowputinhisword。
"YouneverhadaprydyddlikeHuwMorrisinSouthWales,"saidhe;
"norTwmo’rNanteither。"
"SouthWaleshasproducedgoodpoets,"saidI。
"No,ithasn’t,"saidtheoldfellow;"itneverproducedone。Ifithad,youwouldn’thaveneededtocomeheretoseethegraveofapoet;youwouldhavefoundoneathome。"
Ashesaidthesewordshegotup,tookhisstick,andseemedabouttodepart。Justtheninburstarabbleroutofgame—keepersandriver—watcherswhohadcomefromthepettysessions,andwereinhighglee,thetwopoacherswhomthelandlordhadmentionedhavingbeenconvictedandheavilyfined。Twoorthreeofthemwereparticularlyboisterous,runningagainstsomeoftheguestswhoweresittingorstandinginthekitchen,andpushingthelandlordabout,cryingatthesametimethattheywouldstandbySirWatkintothelast,andwouldneverseehimplundered。Oneofthem,afellowofaboutthirty,inahairycap,blackcoat,dirtyyellowbreeches,anddirtywhitetop—boots,whowasthemostobstreperousofthemall,atlastcameuptotheoldchapwhodislikedSouthWelshmenandtriedtoknockoffhishat,swearingthathewouldstandbySirWatkin;he,however,metaTartar。TheenemyoftheSouthWelsh,likeallcrustypeople,hadlotsofmettle,andwiththestickwhichheheldinhishandforthwithaimedablowatthefellow’spoll,which,hadhenotjumpedback,wouldprobablyhavebrokenit。
"Iwillnotbeinsultedbyyou,youvagabond,"saidtheoldchap,"norbySirWatkineither;goandtellhimso。"
Thefellowlookedsheepish,andturningawayproceededtotakelibertieswithotherpeoplelessdangeroustomeddlewiththanoldcrabstick。He,however,soondesisted,andsatdownevidentlydisconcerted。
"WereyoueverworsetreatedinSouthWalesbythepeopletherethanyouhavebeenherebyyourowncountrymen?"saidItotheoldfellow。
"Mycountrymen?"saidhe;"thisscampisnocountrymanofmine;norisoneofthewholekit。TheyareallfromWrexham,amixtureofbrokenhousekeepersandfellowstoostupidtolearnatrade;asetofscampsfitfornothingintheworldbuttoswearbodilyagainsthonestmen。TheysaytheywillstandupforSirWatkin,andsotheywill,butonlyinaboxintheCourttogivefalseevidence。
Theywon’tfightforhimonthebanksoftheriver。Countrymenofmine,indeed!theyarenocountrymenofmine;theyarefromWrexham,wherethepeoplespeakneitherEnglishnorWelsh,notevenSouthWelshasyoudo。"
Thengivingakindofflourishwithhisstickhedeparted。
CHAPTERLXVIII
LlanSilinChurch—TombofHuwMorris—BarbaraandRichard—
WelshCountryClergyman—TheSwearingLad—Anglo—SaxonDevils。
HAVINGdiscussedmyaleIaskedthelandlordifhewouldshowmethegraveofHuwMorris。"Withpleasure,sir,"saidhe;"prayfollowme。"Heledmetothechurchyard,inwhichseveralenormousyewtreeswerestanding,probablyofanantiquitywhichreachedasfarbackasthedaysofHenrytheEighth,whentheyewbowwasstillthefavouriteweaponofthemenofBritain。Thechurchfrontsthesouth,theporticobeinginthatdirection。Thebodyofthesacrededificeisancient,butthesteeplewhichbearsagildedcockonitstopismodern。Theinnkeeperledmedirectlyuptothesouthernwall,thenpointingtoabroaddiscolouredslab,whichlayonthegroundjustoutsidethewall,aboutmidwaybetweentheporticoandtheorielend,hesaid:
"UnderneaththisstoneliesHuwMorris,sir。"ForthwithtakingoffmyhatIwentdownonmykneesandkissedthecoldslabcoveringthecoldremainsofthemightyHuw,andthen,stillonmyknees,proceededtoexamineitattentively。Itiscoveredoverwithlettersthreepartsdefaced。AllIcouldmakeoutoftheinscriptionwasthedateofthepoet’sdeath,1709。"Agreatgenius,averygreatgenius,sir,"saidtheinn—keeper,afterIhadgotonmyfeetandputonmyhat。
"Hewasindeed,"saidI;"areyouacquaintedwithhispoetry?"
"Ohyes,"saidtheinnkeeper,andthenrepeatedthefourlinescomposedbythepoetshortlybeforehisdeath,whichIhadheardtheintoxicatedstonemasonrepeatinthepublic—houseofthePandy,thedayIwenttovisitthepoet’sresidencewithJohnJones。
"DoyouknowanymoreofHuw’spoetry?"saidI。
"No,"saidtheinnkeeper。"Thoselines,however,IhaveknowneversinceIwasachildandrepeatedthem,moreparticularlyoflatesinceagehascomeuponmeandIhavefeltthatIcannotlastlong。"
Itisveryoddhowfewoftheversesofgreatpoetsareinpeople’smouths。NotmorethanadozenofShakespear’slinesareinpeople’smouths:ofthoseofPopenotmorethanhalfthatnumber。
OfAddison’spoetrytwoorthreelinesmaybeinpeople’smouths,thoughIneverheardonequoted,theonlylinewhichIeverheardquotedasAddison’snotbeinghisbutGarth’s:
"’Tisbestrepentinginacoachandsix。’
WhilstoftheversesofHuwMorrisIneverknewanyonebutmyself,whoamnotaWelshman,whocouldrepeatalinebeyondthefourwhichIhavetwicehadoccasiontomention,andwhichseemtobegenerallyknowninNorthifnotinSouthWales。
FromtheflagstoneIproceededtotheporticoandgazeduponitintensely。Itpresentednothingveryremarkable,butithadthegreatestinterestforme,forIrememberedhowmanytimesHuwMorrishadwalkedoutofthatporchattheheadofthecongregation,theclergymanyieldinghisownplacetotheinspiredbard。Iwouldfainhaveenteredthechurch,butthelandlordhadnotthekey,andtoldmethatheimaginedtherewouldbesomedifficultyinprocuringit。Iwasthereforeobligedtocontentmyselfwithpeepingthroughawindowintotheinterior,whichhadasolemnandvenerableaspect。
"Withinthere,"saidItomyself,"HuwMorris,thegreatestsongsteroftheseventeenthcentury,knelteverySundayduringthelatterthirtyyearsofhislife,afterwalkingfromPontyMeibionacrossthebleakandsavageBerwyn。WithintherewasmarriedBarbaraWynn,theRoseofMaelai,toRichardMiddleton,thehandsomecavalierofMaelor,andwithintheresheliesburied,evenasthesongsterwholamentedheruntimelydeathinimmortalverseliesburiedouthereinthegraveyard。Whatinterestingassociationshasthischurchforme,bothoutsideandin,butallconnectedwithHuw;forwhatshouldIhaveknownofBarbara,theRose,andgallantRichardbutforthepoemontheiraffectionateunionanduntimelyseparation,thedialoguebetweenthelivingandthedead,composedbyhumbleHuw,thefarmer’ssonofPontyyMeibion?"
AftergazingthroughthewindowtillmyeyeswateredIturnedtotheinnkeeper,andinquiredthewaytoLlanRhyadr。HavingreceivedfromhimthedesiredinformationIthankedhimforhiscivility,andsetoutonmyreturn。
BeforeIcouldgetclearofthetownIsuddenlyencounteredmyfriendR—,thecleverlawyerandmagistrate’sclerkofLlangollen。
"Ilittleexpectedtoseeyouhere,"saidhe。
"NorIyou,"Ireplied。
"Icameinmyofficialcapacity,"saidhe;"thepettysessionshavebeenheldhereto—day。"
"Iknowtheyhave,"Ireplied;"andthattwopoachershavebeenconvicted。IcamehereonmywaytoSouthWalestoseethegraveofHuwMorris,who,asyouknow,isburiedinthechurchyard。"
"Haveyouseentheclergyman?"saidR—。
"No,"Ireplied。
"Thencomewithme,"saidhe;"Iamnowgoingtocalluponhim。I
knowhewillberejoicedtomakeyouracquaintance。"
Heledmetotheclergyman’shouse,whichstoodatthesouth—westendofthevillagewithinagardenfencedwithanironpaling。Wefoundtheclergymaninanicecomfortableparlourorstudy,thesidesofwhichweredecoratedwithbooks。Hewasasharpclever—
lookingman,ofaboutthemiddleage。Onmybeingintroducedtohimhewasverygladtoseeme,asmyfriendR—toldmehewouldbe。Heseemedtoknowallaboutme,eventhatIunderstoodWelsh。
Weconversedonvarioussubjects:onthepoweroftheWelshlanguage;itsmutableletters;onHuwMorris,andlikewiseonale,withanexcellentglassofwhichheregaledme。Iwasmuchpleasedwithhim,andthoughthimacapitalspecimenoftheWelshcountryclergyman。HisnamewasWalterJones。
Afterstayingabouthalf—an—hourItookleaveofthegoodkindman,whowishedmeallkindofhappiness,spiritualandtemporal,andsaidthatheshouldalwaysbehappytoseemeatLlanSilin。MyfriendR—walkedwithmealittlewayandthenbademefarewell。
Itwasnowlateintheafternoon,theskywasgreyandgloomy,andakindofhalfwintrywindwasblowing。IntheforenoonIhadtravelledalongtheeasternsideofthevalley,whichIwillcallthatofLlanRhyadr,directingmycoursetothenorth,butIwasnowonthewesternsideofthevalley,journeyingtowardsthesouth。Inabouthalf—an—hourIfoundmyselfnearlyparallelwiththehighcragwhichIhadseenfromadistanceinthemorning。Itwasnowtotheeastofme。Itswesternfrontwasveryprecipitous,butonitsnorthernsideitwascultivatednearlytothesummit。
AsIstoodlookingatitfromnearthetopofagentleacclivityaboywithateam,whomIhadpassedalittletimebefore,cameup。
Hewaswhippinghishorses,whowerestraininguptheascent,andwasswearingatthemmostfrightfullyinEnglish。Iaddressedhiminthatlanguage,inquiringthenameofthecrag,butheansweredDimSaesneg,andthenagainfelltocursing;hishorsesinEnglish。
Iallowedhimandhisteamtogettothetopoftheascent,andthenovertakinghim,IsaidinWelsh:"WhatdoyoumeanbysayingyouhavenoEnglish?YouweretalkingEnglishjustnowtoyourhorses。"
"Yes,"saidthelad,"IhaveEnglishenoughformyhorses,andthatisall。"
"YouseemtohaveplentyofWelsh,"saidI;"whydon’tyouspeakWelshtoyourhorses?"
"It’sofnousespeakingWelshtothem,"saidtheboy;"Welshisn’tstrongenough。"
"Isn’tMynDiawltolerablystrong?"saidI。
"Notstrongenoughforhorses,"saidtheboy"ifIweretosayMynDiawltomyhorses,orevenCasAndras,theywouldlaughatme。"
"Dotheothercarters,"saidI,"usethesameEnglishtotheirhorseswhichyoudotoyours?"
"Yes"saidtheboy,"they’llallusethesameEnglishwords;iftheydidn’tthehorseswouldn’tmindthem。"
"Whatatriumph,"thoughtI,"fortheEnglishlanguagethattheWelshcartersareobligedtohaverecoursetoitsoathsandexecrationstomaketheirhorsesgeton!"
Isaidnothingmoretotheboyonthesubjectoflanguage,butagainaskedhimthenameofthecrag。"ItiscalledCraigyGorllewin,"saidhe。Ithankedhim,andsoonlefthimandhisteamfarbehind。
Notwithstandingwhattheboysaidaboutthemilk—and—watercharacterofnativeWelshoaths,theWelshhavesomeverypungentexecrations,quiteasefficacious,Ishouldsay,tomakeahorsegetonasanyintheEnglishswearingvocabulary。Someoftheiroathsarecurious,beingconnectedwithheathentimesandDruidicalmythology;forexamplethatCasAndras,mentionedbytheboy,whichmeanshatefulenemyorhorribleAndras。AndrasorAndrastewasthefuryorDemigorgonoftheAncientCumry,towhomtheybuilttemplesandofferedsacrificesoutoffear。CuriousthatthesameoathshouldbeusedbytheChristianCumryofthepresentday,whichwasinvogueamongsttheirpaganancestorssomethreethousandyearsago。However,thesamethingisobservableamongstusChristianEnglish:wesaytheDusetakeyou!evenasourheathenSaxonforefathersdid,whoworshippedakindofDevilsocalled,andnamedadayoftheweekafterhim,whichnamewestillretaininourhebdomadalcalendarlikethoseofseveralotherAnglo—Saxondevils。Wealsosay:GotooldNick!andNickorNikkurwasasurnameofWoden,andalsothenameofaspiritwhichhauntedfordsandwasinthehabitofdrowningpassengers。
NightcamequicklyuponmeafterIhadpassedtheswearinglad。
However,IwasfortunateenoughtoreachLlanRhyadr,withouthavingexperiencedanydamageorimpedimentfromDiawl,Andras,Duse,orNick。
CHAPTERLXIX
ChurchofLlanRhyadr—TheClerk—TheTablet—Stone—FirstViewoftheCataract。
THEnightwasbothwindyandrainyliketheprecedingone,butthemorningwhichfollowed,unlikethatofthedaybefore,wasdullandgloomy。AfterbreakfastIwalkedouttotakeanotherviewofthelittletown。AsIstoodlookingatthechurchamiddle—agedmanofaremarkablyintelligentcountenancecameupandaskedmeifI
shouldliketoseetheinside。ItoldhimIshould,whereuponhesaidthathewastheclerkandwouldadmitmewithpleasure。
Takingakeyoutofhispocketheunlockedthedoorofthechurchandwewentin。Theinsidewassombre,notsomuchowingtothegloominessofthedayastheheavinessofthearchitecture。Itpresentedsomethingintheformofacross。Isoonfoundtheclerkwhathiscountenancerepresentedhimtobe,ahighlyintelligentperson。Hisanswerstomyquestionswereingeneralreadyandsatisfactory。
"Thisseemsratheranancientedifice,"saidI;"whenwasitbuilt?"
"Inthesixteenthcentury,"saidtheclerk;"inthedaysofHarryTudor。"
"Haveanyremarkablemenbeenclergymenofthischurch?"
"Several,sir;amongstitsvicarswasDoctorWilliamMorgan,thegreatSouthWelshman,theauthoroftheoldWelshversionoftheBible,whoflourishedinthetimeofQueenElizabeth。ThentherewasDoctorRobertSouth,aneminentdivine,who,thoughnotaWelshman,spokeandpreachedWelshbetterthanmanyofthenativeclergy。Thentherewasthelastvicar,WalterD—,agreatpreacherandwriter,whostyledhimselfinprintGwalterMechain。"
"AreMorganandSouthburiedhere?"saidI。
"Theyarenot,sir,"saidtheclerk;"theyhadbeentransferredtootherbeneficesbeforetheydied。"
IdidnotinquirewhetherWalterD—wasburiedthere,forofhimI
hadneverheardbefore,butdemandedwhetherthechurchpossessedanyancientmonuments。
"Thisistheoldestwhichremains,sir,"saidtheclerk,andhepointedwithhisfingertoatablet—stoneoveralittledarkpewontherightsideoftheorielwindow。Therewasaninscriptionuponit,butowingtothedarknessIcouldnotmakeoutaletter。Theclerk,however,readasfollows。
1694。21Octr。
HicSepultusEstSidneusBynner。
"DoyouunderstandLatin?"saidItotheclerk。
"Idonot,sir;Ibelieve,however,thatthestoneistothememoryofoneBynner。"
"ThatisnotaWelshname,"saidI。
"Itisnot,sir,"saidtheclerk。
"ItseemstoberadicallythesameasBonner,"saidI,"thenameofthehorriblePopishBishopofLondoninMary’stime。DoanypeopleofthenameofBynnerresideinthisneighbourhoodatpresent?"
"None,sir,"saidtheclerk;"andiftheBynnersaredescendantsofBonner,itis,perhaps,wellthattherearenone。"
Imadetheclerk,whoappearedalmostfittobeaclergyman,asmallpresent,andreturnedtotheinn。AfterpayingmybillI
flungmysatchelovermyshoulder,tookmyumbrellabythemiddleinmyrighthand,andsetofffortheRhyadr。
Ienteredthenarrowglenatthewesternextremityofthetownandproceededbrisklyalong。Thescenerywasromanticallybeautiful;
onmyleftwasthelittlebrook,thewatersofwhichrunthroughthetown;beyonditaloftyhill;onmyrightwasahillcoveredwithwoodfromthetoptothebottom。Ienjoyedthescene,andshouldhaveenjoyeditmorehadtherebeenalittlesunshinetogildit。
Ipassedthroughasmallvillage,thenameofwhichIthinkwasCynmen,andpresentlyovertookamanandboy。ThemansalutedmeinEnglish,andIenteredintoconversationwithhiminthatlanguage。HetoldmethathecamefromLlanGedwin,andwasgoingtoaplacecalledGwernsomething,inordertofetchhomesomesheep。AfteratimeheaskedmewhereIwasgoing。
"IamgoingtoseethePistyllRhyadr,"saidI
Wehadthenjustcometothetopofarisingground。
"Yonder’sthePistyll!"saidhe,pointingtothewest。
Ilookedinthedirectionofhisfinger,andsawsomethingatagreatdistance,whichlookedlikeastripofgreylinenhangingoveracrag。
"Thatisthewaterfall,"hecontinued,"whichsomanyoftheSaxonscometosee。AndnowImustbidyougood—bye,master;formywaytotheGwernisontheright"
Thenfollowedbytheboyheturnedasideintoawildroadatthecornerofasavage,precipitousrock。
CHAPTERLXX
MountainScenery—TheRhyadr—WonderfulFeat。
AFTERwalkingaboutamilewiththecataractalwaysinsight,I
emergedfromtheglenintoanoblongvalleyextendingfromsouthtonorth,havingloftyhillsonallsides,especiallyonthewest,fromwhichdirectionthecataractcomes。Iadvancedacrossthevaletillwithinafurlongofthisobject,whenIwasstoppedbyadeephollowornethervaleintowhichthewatersofthecataracttumble。OnthesideofthishollowIsatdown,andgazeddownbeforemeandoneitherside。Thewatercomesspoutingoveracragofperhapstwohundredfeetinaltitudebetweentwohills,onesouth—eastandtheothernearlynorth。Thesouthernhilliswoodedfromthetop,nearlydowntowherethecataractburstsforth;andso,butnotsothickly,isthenorthernhill,whichbearsasingularresemblancetoahog’sback。Grovesofpineareonthelowerpartsofboth;infrontofagrovelowdownonthenorthernhillisasmallwhitehouseofapicturesqueappearance。Thewaterofthecataract,afterreachingthebottomoftheprecipice,rushesinanarrowbrookdownthevaleinthedirectionofLlanRhyadr。
Tothenorth—east,betweenthehog—backedhillandanotherstrange—
lookingmountain,isawildglen,fromwhichcomesabrooktoswellthewatersdischargedbytheRhyadr。Thesouth—westsideofthevaleissteep,andfromacleftofahillinthatquarteraslenderstreamrushingimpetuouslyjoinsthebrookoftheRhyadr,liketherillofthenorthernglen。TheprincipalobjectofthewholeisofcoursetheRhyadr。WhatshallIlikenitto?Iscarcelyknow,unlesstoanimmenseskeinofsilkagitatedanddisturbedbytempestuousblasts,ortothelongtailofagreycourseratfuriousspeed。Throughtheprofusionoflongsilverythreadsorhairs,orwhatlookedsuch,IcouldhereandthereseetheblacksidesofthecragdownwhichtheRhyadrprecipitateditselfwithsomethingbetweenaboomandaroar。
AftersittingonthevergeofthehollowforaconsiderabletimeI
gotup,anddirectedmycoursetowardsthehouseinfrontofthegrove。IturneddownthepathwhichbroughtmetothebrookwhichrunsfromthenorthernglenintothewatersdischargedbytheRhyadr,andcrossingitbystepping—stones,foundmyselfonthelowestspurofthehog—backedhill。Asteeppathledtowardsthehouse。AsIdrewneartwohandsomedogscamerushingtowelcomethestranger。ComingtoadooronthenorthernsideofthehouseI
tapped,andahandsomegirlofaboutthirteenmakingherappearance,IinquiredinEnglishthenearestwaythewaterfall;