"Ifyouplease,sir。"
"Towhatplaceshallwego?"
"ShallwegotothePontyCyssylltau,sir?"
"Whatisthat?"
"Amightybridge,sir,whichcarriestheCamlasoveravalleyonitsback。"
"Good!letusgoandseethebridgeofthejunction,forthatI
thinkisthemeaninginSaxonofPontyCyssylltau。"
Wesetout;myguideconductedmealongthebankoftheCamlasinthedirectionofRhiwabon,thatistowardstheeast。Onthewaywediscoursedonvarioussubjects,andunderstoodeachothertolerablywell。Iaskedifhehadbeenanythingbesidesaweaver。Hetoldmethatwhenaboyhekeptsheeponthemountain。"Whydidyounotgoonkeepingsheep?"said"Iwouldratherkeepsheepthanweave。"
"Myparentswantedmeathome,sir,"saidhe;"andIwasnotsorrytogohome;Iearnedlittle,andlivedbadly。"
"Ashepherd,"saidI,"canearnmorethanfiveshillingsaweek。"
"Iwasneveraregularshepherd,sir,"saidhe。"But,sir,IwouldratherbeaweaverwithfiveshillingsaweekinLlangollen,thanashepherdwithfifteenonthemountain。Thelifeofashepherd,sir,isperhapsnotexactlywhatyouandsomeothergentlefolksthink。Theshepherdbearsmuchcoldandwet,sir,andheisverylonely;nosocietysavehissheepanddog。Then,sir,hehasnoprivileges。Imeangospelprivileges。HedoesnotlookforwardtoDyddSul,asadayofllawenydd,ofjoyandtriumph,astheweaverdoes;thatisifheisreligiouslydisposed。Theshepherdhasnochapel,sir,liketheweaver。Oh,sir,IsayagainthatIwouldratherbeaweaverinLlangollenwithfiveshillingsaweek,thanashepherdonthehillwithfifteen。"
"Doyoumeantosay,"saidI,"thatyoulivewithyourfamilyonfiveshillingsaweek?"
"No,sir。IfrequentlydolittlecommissionsbywhichIearnsomething。Then,sir,Ihavefriends,verygoodfriends。Agoodladyofourcongregationsentmethismorninghalf—a—poundofbutter。Thepeopleofourcongregationareverykindtoeachother,sir。"
"Thatismore,"thoughtItomyself,"thanthepeopleofmycongregationare;theyarealwayscuttingeachother’sthroats。"I
nextaskedifhehadbeenmuchaboutWales。
"Notmuch,sir。However,IhavebeentoPenCaerGybi,whichyoucallHolyHead,andtoBethGelert,sir。"
"Whattookyoutothoseplaces?"
"Iwassenttothoseplacesonbusiness,sir;asItoldyoubefore,sir,Isometimesexecutecommissions。AtBethGelertIstayedsometime。ItwasthereImarried,sir;mywifecomesfromaplacecalledDolGellynnearBethGelert。"
"Whatwashername?"
"HernamewasJones,sir。"
"What,beforeshemarried?"
"Yes,sir,beforeshemarried。Youneednotbesurprised,sir;
thereareplentyofthenameofJonesinWales。Thenameofmybrother’swife,beforeshemarried,wasalsoJones。"
"Yourbrotherisacleverman,"saidI。
"Yes,sir,foraCumroheisclebberenough。"
"ForaCumro?"
"Yes,sir,heisnotaSaxon,youknow。"
"AreSaxonsthensoveryclever?"
"Ohyes,sir;whosoclebber?TheclebberestpeopleinLlangollenareSaxons;thatis,atcarnalthings—foratspiritualthingsI
donotthinkthematallclebber。LookatMrA。,sir。"
"Whoishe?"
"Doyounotknowhim,sir?IthoughteverybodyknewMrA。HeisaSaxon,sir,andkeepstheinnontheroadalittlewaybelowwhereyoulive。HeistheclebberestmaninLlangollen,sir。Hecandoeverything。Heisagreatcook,andcanwashclothesbetterthananywoman。Oh,sir,forcarnalthings,whosoclebberasyourcountrymen!"
Afterwalkingaboutfourmilesbythesideofthecanalweleftit,andbearingtotherightpresentlycametotheaqueduct,whichstrodeoveradeepandnarrowvalley,atthebottomofwhichrantheDee。"ThisisthePontyCysswllt,sir,"saidmyguide;"it’sthefinestbridgeintheworld,andnowonder,ifwhatthecommonpeoplesaybetrue,namelythateverystonecostagoldensovereign。"
Wewentalongit;theheightwasawful。Myguide,thoughhehadbeenamountainshepherd,confessedthathewassomewhatafraid。
"Itgivesmethependro,sir,"saidhe,"tolookdown。"Itoofeltsomewhatdizzy,asIlookedovertheparapetintotheglen。Thecanalwhichthismightybridgecarriesacrossthegulfisaboutninefeetwide,andoccupiesabouttwo—thirdsofthewidthofthebridgeandtheentirewesternside。Thefootwayistowardstheeast。FromaboutthemiddleofthebridgethereisafineviewoftheforgesontheCefnBachandalsoofahugehillnearitcalledtheCefnMawr。Wereachedthetermination,andpresentlycrossingthecanalbyalittlewoodenbridgewecametoavillage。Myguidethensaid,"Ifyouplease,sir,wewillreturnbytheoldbridge,whichleadsacrosstheDeeinthebottomofthevale。"Hethenledmebyaromanticroadtoabridgeonthewestoftheaqueduct,andfarbelow。Itseemedveryancient。"Thisistheoldbridge,sir,"
saidmyguide;"itwasbuiltahundredyearsbeforethePontyCysswlltwasdreamtof。"Wenowwalkedtothewest,inthedirectionofLlangollen,alongthebankoftheriver。Presentlywearrivedwheretheriver,aftermakingabend,formedapool。Itwasshadedbyloftytrees,andtoallappearancewasexceedinglydeep。Istoppedtolookatit,forIwasstruckwithitsgloomyhorror。"Thatpool,sir,"saidJohnJones,"iscalledLlynyMeddwyn,thedrunkard’spool。Itiscalledso,sir,becauseadrunkenmanoncefellintoit,andwasdrowned。ThereisnodeeperpoolintheDee,sir,saveone,alittlebelowLlangollen,whichiscalledthepoolofCatherineLingo。Agirlofthatnamefellintoit,whilstgatheringsticksonthehighbankaboveit。Shewasdrowned,andthepoolwasnamedafterher。Ineverlookateitherwithoutshuddering,thinkinghowcertainlyIshouldbedrownedifI
fellin,forIcannotswim,sir。"
"Youshouldhavelearnttoswimwhenyouwereyoung,"saidI,"andtodivetoo。Iknowonewhohasbroughtupstonesfromthebottom,Idaresay,ofdeeperpoolsthaneither,buthewasaSaxon,andatcarnalthings,youknow,nonesoclebberastheSaxons。"
Ifoundmyguideafirst—ratewalkerandagoodbotanist,knowingthenamesofalltheplantsandtreesinWelsh。BythetimewereturnedtoLlangollenIhadformedaveryhighopinionofhim,inwhichIwassubsequentlyconfirmedbywhatIsawofhimduringtheperiodofouracquaintance,whichwasofsomeduration。Hewasveryhonest,disinterested,andexceedinglygood—humoured。Itistrue,hehadhislittleskitsoccasionallyattheChurch,andshowedsomemarksofhostilitytothechurchcat,moreespeciallywhenhesawitmountedonmyshoulders;forthecreaturesoonbegantotakeliberties,andinlessthanaweekaftermyarrivalatthecottage,generallymountedonmyback,whenitsawmereadingorwriting,forthesakeofthewarmth。ButsettingasidethosesameskitsattheChurch,andthatdislikeofthechurchcat,venialtriflesafterall,andeasilytobeaccountedfor,onthescoreofhisreligiouseducation,Ifoundnothingtoblame,andmuchtoadmire,inJohnJones,theCalvinisticMethodistofLlangollen。
CHAPTERXIII
DivineService—LlangollenBells—IoloGoch—TheAbbey—Twmo’rNant—HolyWell—ThomasEdwardsSUNDAYarrived—aSundayofuncloudedsunshine。WeattendedDivineserviceatchurchinthemorning。Thecongregationwasverynumerous,buttoallappearanceconsistedalmostentirelyofEnglishvisitors,likeourselves。Thereweretwoofficiatingclergymen,fatherandson。Theybothsatinakindofoblongpulpitonthesouthernsideofthechurch,atalittledistancebelowthealtar。TheservicewasinEnglish,andtheeldergentlemanpreached;therewasgoodsingingandchanting。
AfterdinnerIsatinanarbourintheperllan,thinkingofmanythings,amongstothers,spiritual。Whilstthusengaged,thesoundofthechurchbellscallingpeopletoafternoonservicecameuponmyears。Ilistened,andthoughtIhadneverheardbellswithsosweetasound。Ihadheardtheminthemorning,butwithoutpayingmuchattentiontothem,butasInowsatintheumbrageousarbour,Iwasparticularlystruckwiththem。Ohhowsweetlytheirvoicemingledwiththelowrushoftheriver,atthebottomoftheperllan。IsubsequentlyfoundthatthebellsofLlangollenwerecelebratedfortheirsweetness。Theirmeritindeedhasevenbeenadmittedbyanenemy;forapoetoftheCalvinisticMethodistpersuasion,onewhocallshimselfEinionDu,inaverybeautifulode,commencingwith—
"TangnefeddiLlangollen,"
saysthatinnopartoftheworlddobellscallpeoplesosweetlytochurchasthoseofLlangollentown。
Intheevening,atabouthalf—pastsix,Iattendedserviceagain,butwithoutmyfamily。Thistimethecongregationwasnotnumerous,andwascomposedprincipallyofpoorpeople。TheserviceandsermonwerenowinWelsh,thesermonwaspreachedbytheyoungergentleman,andwasonthebuildingofthesecondtemple,and,asfarasIunderstoodit,appearedtometobeexceedinglygood。
OntheMondayevening,myselfandfamilytookawalktotheabbey。
Mywifeanddaughter,whoarefondofarchitectureandruins,wereveryanxioustoseetheoldplace。Itoowasanxiousenoughtoseeit,lessfromloveofruinsandancientarchitecture,thanfromknowingthatacertainillustriousbardwasburiedinitsprecincts,ofwhomperhapsashortaccountwillnotbeunacceptabletothereader。
Thisman,whosepoeticalappellationwasIoloGoch,butwhoserealnamewasLlwyd,wasofadistinguishedfamily,andLordofLlechryd。HewasbornandgenerallyresidedataplacecalledCoedyPantwn,intheupperpartoftheValeofClwyd。HewasawarmfriendandpartisanofOwenGlendower,withwhomhelived,atSycharth,forsomeyearsbeforethegreatWelshinsurrection,andwhomhesurvived,dyingatanextremeoldagebeneathhisownroof—
treeatCoedyPantwn。Hecomposedpiecesofgreatexcellenceonvarioussubjects;butthemostremarkableofhiscompositionsaredecidedlycertainonesconnectedwithOwenGlendower。AmongsttheseisoneinwhichhedescribestheWelshchieftain’smansionatSycharth,andhishospitablewayoflivingatthathisfavouriteresidence;andanotherinwhichhehailstheadventofthecomet,whichmadeitsappearanceinthemonthofMarch,fourteenhundredandtwo,asofgoodaugurytohisdarlinghero。
Itwasfromknowingthatthisdistinguishedmanlayburiedintheprecinctsoftheoldedifice,thatIfeltsoanxioustoseeit。
Afterwalkingabouttwomilesweperceiveditonourrighthand。
Theabbeyofthevaleofthecrossstandsinagreenmeadow,inacornernearthenorth—westendofthevalleyofLlangollen。Thevaleorglen,inwhichtheabbeystands,takesitsnamefromacertainancientpillarorcross,calledthepillarofEliseg,andwhichisbelievedtohavebeenraisedoverthebodyofanancientBritishchieftainofthatname,whoperishedinbattleagainsttheSaxons,aboutthemiddleofthetenthcentury。InthePapisttimestheabbeywasaplaceofgreatpseudo—sanctity,wealthandconsequence。Theterritorybelongingtoitwasveryextensive,comprising,amongstotherdistricts,thevaleofLlangollenandthemountainregiontothenorthofit,calledtheEglwysigRocks,whichregionderiveditsnameEglwysig,orecclesiastical,fromthecircumstanceofitspertainingtotheabbeyofthevaleofthecross。
Wefirstreachedthatpartofthebuildingwhichhadoncebeenthechurch,havingpreviouslytopassthroughafarmyard,inwhichwasabundanceofdirtandmire。
Thechurchfrontsthewestandcontainstheremainsofanoblewindow,beneathwhichisagate,whichwefoundlocked。Passingonwecametothatpartwherethemonkshadlived,butwhichnowservedasafarmhouse;anopendoorwayexhibitedtousanancientgloomyhall,wherewassomecuriousold—fashionedfurniture,particularlyanancientrack,inwhichstoodagoodlyrangeofpewtertrenchers。Arespectabledamekindlywelcomedusandinvitedustositdown。Weenteredintoconversationwithher,andaskedhername,whichshesaidwasEvans。IspokesomeWelshtoher,whichpleasedher。ShesaidthatWelshpeopleatthepresentdayweresofulloffineairsthattheywereabovespeakingtheoldlanguage—butthatsuchwasnotthecaseformerly,andthatshehadknownaMrsPrice,whowashousekeepertotheCountessofMornington,wholivedinLondonupwardsoffortyyears,andattheendofthattimepridedherselfuponspeakingasgoodWelshasshedidwhenagirl。Ispoketoherabouttheabbey,andaskedifshehadeverheardofIoloGoch。Sheinquiredwhohewas。Itoldherhewasagreatbard,andwasburiedintheabbey。Shesaidshehadneverheardofhim,butthatshecouldshowmetheportraitofagreatpoet,andgoingaway,presentlyreturnedwithaprintinaframe。
"There,"saidshe,"istheportraitofTwmo’rNant,generallycalledtheWelshShakespeare。"
Ilookedatit。TheWelshShakespearewasrepresentedsittingatatablewithapeninhishand;acottage—latticedwindowwasbehindhim,onhislefthand;ashelfwithplates,andtrenchersbehindhim,onhisright。Hisfeatureswererude,butfullofwild,strangeexpression;belowthepicturewasthefollowingcouplet:—
"LlunGwrywllawngwirAwen;
YBydalanwoddo’iBen。"
"DidyoueverhearofTwmo’rNant?"saidtheolddame。
"Ineverheardofhimbywordofmouth,"saidI;"butIknowallabouthim—IhavereadhislifeinWelsh,writtenbyhimself,andacuriouslifeitis。HisnamewasThomasEdwards,buthegenerallycalledhimselfTwmo’rNant,orTomoftheDingle,becausehewasborninadingle,ataplacecalledPenPorchell,inthevaleofClwyd—which,bythebye,wasontheestatewhichoncebelongedtoIoloGoch,thepoetIwasspeakingtoyouaboutjustnow。Tomwasacarterbytrade,butoncekeptatoll—barinSouthWales,which,however,hewasobligedtoleaveattheendoftwoyears,owingtotheannoyancewhichheexperiencedfromghostsandgoblins,andunearthlythings,particularlyphantomhearses,whichusedtopassthroughhisgateatmidnightwithoutpaying,whenthegatewasshut。"
"Ah,"saidthedame,"youknowmoreaboutTomo’rNantthanIdo;
andwashenotagreatpoet?"
"Idaresayhewas,"saidI,"forthepieceswhichhewrote,andwhichhecalledInterludes,hadagreatrun,andhegotagreatdealofmoneybythem,butIshouldsaythelinesbeneaththeportraitaremoreapplicabletotherealShakespearethantohim。"
"Whatdothelinesmean?"saidtheoldlady;"theyareWelsh,I
know,buttheyarefarbeyondmyunderstanding。"
"Theymaybethustranslated,"saidI:
"GodinhisheadtheMuseinstill’d,Andfromhisheadtheworldhefill’d。"
"Thankyou,sir,"saidtheoldlady。"Ineverfoundanyonebeforewhocouldtranslatethem。"ShethensaidshewouldshowmesomeEnglishlineswrittenonthedaughterofafriendofherswhowaslatelydead,andputsomeprintedlinesinaframeintomyhand。
TheywereanElegytoMary,andwereverybeautiful,Ireadthemaloud,andwhenIhadfinishedshethankedmeandsaidshehadnodoubtthatifIpleasedIcouldputthemintoWelsh—shethensighedandwipedhereyes。
Onourenquiringwhetherwecouldseetheinterioroftheabbeyshesaidwecould,andthatifwerangabellatthegateawomanwouldcometous,whowasinthehabitofshowingtheplace。Wethengotupandbadeherfarewell—butshebeggedthatwewouldstayandtastethedwrsantaiddoftheholywell。
"Whatholywellisthat?"saidI。
"Awell,"saidshe,"bytheroad’sside,whichinthetimeofthepopeswassaidtoperformwonderfulcures。"
"Letustasteitbyallmeans,"saidI;whereuponshewentout,andpresentlyreturnedwithatrayonwhichwereajugandtumbler,thejugfilledwiththewateroftheholywell;wedranksomeofthedwrsantaidd,whichtastedlikeanyotherwater,andthenaftershakingherbythehand,wewenttothegate,andrangatthebell。
Presentlyawomanmadeherappearanceatthegate—shewasgenteellydrest,aboutthemiddleage,rathertall,andbearinginhercountenancethetracesofbeauty。Whenwetoldhertheobjectofourcomingsheadmittedus,andafterlockingthegateconductedusintothechurch。Itwasroofless,andhadnothingremarkableaboutit,savethewesternwindow,whichwehadseenfromwithout。
Ourattendantpointedouttoussometombs,andtoldusthenamesofcertaingreatpeoplewhosedusttheycontained。"CanyoutelluswhereIoloGochliesinterred?"saidI。
"No,"saidshe;"indeedIneverheardofsuchaperson。"
"HewasthebardofOwenGlendower,"saidI,"andassistedhiscausewonderfullybythefieryodes,inwhichheincitedtheWelshtoriseagainsttheEnglish。"
"Indeed!"saidshe;"well,IamsorrytosaythatIneverheardofhim。"
"AreyouWelsh?"saidI。
"Iam,"shereplied。
"DidyoueverhearofThomasEdwards?"
"Oh,yes,"saidshe;"Ihavefrequentlyheardofhim。"
"Howodd,"saidI,"thatthenameofagreatpoetshouldbeunknownintheveryplacewhereheisburied,whilstthatofonecertainlynothissuperior,shouldbewellknowninthatsameplace,thoughheisnotburiedthere。"
"Perhaps,"saidshe,"thereasonisthatthepoet,whomyoumentioned,wroteintheoldmeasuresandlanguagewhichfewpeoplenowunderstand,whilstThomasEdwardswroteincommonverseandinthelanguageofthepresentday。"
"Idaresayitisso,"saidI。
Fromthechurchsheledustootherpartsoftheruin—atfirstshehadspokentousrathercrossandloftily,butshenowbecamekindandcommunicative。Shesaidthatsheresidedneartheruins,whichshewaspermittedtoshow,thatshelivedalone,andwishedtobealone;therewassomethingsingularabouther,andIbelievethatshehadahistoryofherown。Aftershowingustheruinssheconductedustoacottageinwhichshelived;itstoodbehindtheruinsbyafish—pond,inabeautifulandromanticplaceenough;shesaidthatinthewintershewentaway,buttowhatplaceshedidnotsay。Sheaskeduswhetherwecamewalking,andonourtellingherthatwedid,shesaidthatshewouldpointouttousanearwayhome。Shethenpointedtoapathupahill,tellinguswemustfollowit。Aftermakingherapresentwebadeherfarewell,andpassingthroughameadowcrossedabrookbyarusticbridge,formedofthestemofatree,andascendingthehillbythepathwhichshehadpointedout,wewentthroughacornfieldortwoonitstop,andatlastfoundourselvesontheLlangollenroad,afteramostbeautifulwalk。
CHAPTERXIV
ExpeditiontoRuthyn—TheColumn—SlateQuarries—TheGwyddelod—NocturnalAdventure。
NOTHINGworthyofcommemorationtookplaceduringthetwofollowingdays,savethatmyselfandfamilytookaneveningwalkontheWednesdayupthesideoftheBerwyn,forthepurposeofbotanizing,inwhichwewereattendedbyJohnJones。There,amongstotherplants,wefoundacuriousmosswhichourgoodfriendsaidwascalledinWelsh,CornCarw,ordeer’shorn,andwhichhesaidthedeerwereveryfondof。OntheThursdayheandIstartedonanexpeditiononfoottoRuthyn,distantaboutfourteenmiles,proposingtoreturnintheevening。
ThetownandcastleofRuthynpossessedgreatinterestformefrombeingconnectedwiththeaffairsofOwenGlendower。ItwasatRuthynthatthefirstandnottheleastremarkablesceneoftheWelshinsurrectiontookplacebyOwenmakinghisappearanceatthefairheldthereinfourteenhundred,plunderingtheEnglishwhohadcomewiththeirgoods,slayingmanyofthem,sackingthetownandconcludinghisday’sworkbyfiringit;anditwasatthecastleofRuthynthatLordGreydwelt,aminionofHenrytheFourthandGlendower’sdeadliestenemy,andwhowastheprincipalcauseofthechieftain’senteringintorebellion,having,inthehopeofobtaininghisestatesinthevaleofClwyd,poisonedthemindofHarryagainsthim,whoproclaimedhimatraitor,beforehehadcommittedanyactoftreason,andconfiscatedhisestates,bestowingthatpartofthemuponhisfavourite,whichthelatterwasdesirousofobtaining。
Westartedonourexpeditionataboutseveno’clockofabrilliantmorning。Wepassedbytheabbeyandpresentlycametoasmallfountainwithalittlestoneedifice,withasharptopaboveit。
"Thatistheholywell,"saidmyguide:"LlaweriawnobarchynyramseryrPabyddionyroeddi’rfynnonhwn—muchrespectinthetimesofthePapiststherewastothisfountain。"
"Iheardofit,"saidI,"andtastedofitswatertheothereveningattheabbey;"shortlyafterwesawatallstonestandinginafieldonourrighthandataboutahundredyards’distancefromtheroad。"ThatisthepillarofEliseg,sir,"saidmyguide。"Letusgoandseeit,"saidI。Wesoonreachedthestone。Itisafineuprightcolumnaboutsevenfeethigh,andstandsonaquadratebase。"Sir,"saidmyguide,"adeadkingliesburiedbeneaththisstone。Hewasamightymanofvalourandfoundedtheabbey。HewascalledEliseg。""PerhapsEllis,"saidI,"andifhisnamewasEllisthestonewasveryproperlycalledColofnEliseg,inSaxontheEllisiancolumn。"Theviewfromthecolumnisverybeautiful,belowonthesouth—eastisthevenerableabbey,slumberinginitsgreenmeadow。Beyonditrunsastream,descendingfromthetopofaglen,atthebottomofwhichtheoldpileissituated;beyondthestreamisaloftyhill。Theglenonthenorthisboundedbyanoblemountain,coveredwithwood。StruckwithitsbeautyI
inquireditsname。"MoelEglwysig,sir,"saidmyguide。"TheMoeloftheChurch,"saidI。"Thatishardlyagoodnameforit,forthehillisnotbald(moel)。""True,sir,"saidJohnJones。"Atpresentitsnameisgoodfornothing,butestalom(ofold)beforethehillwasplantedwithtreesitsnamewasgoodenough。Ourfatherswerenotfoolswhentheynamedtheirhills。""Idaresaynot,"saidI,"norinmanyotherthingswhichtheydid,forwhichwelaughatthem,becausewedonotknowthereasonstheyhadfordoingthem。"Weregainedtheroad;theroadtendedtothenorthupasteepascent。IaskedJohnJonesthenameofabeautifulvillage,whichlayfarawayonourright,overtheglen,andnearitstop。"Pentrefydwr,sir"(thevillageofthewater)。Itiscalledthevillageofthewater,becausetheriverbelowcomesdownthroughpartofit。Inextaskedthenameofthehillupwhichweweregoing,andhetoldmeAlltBwlch;thatis,thehighplaceofthehollowroad。
Thisbwlch,orhollowway,wasaregularpass,whichputmewonderfullyinmindofthepassesofSpain。Ittookusalongtimetogettothetop。Afterrestingaminuteonthesummitwebegantodescend。Myguidepointedouttomesomeslate—works,atsomedistanceonourleft。"Thereisagreatdealofworkgoingonthere,sir,"saidhe:"alltheslatesthatyouseedescendingthecanalatLlangollencamefromthere。"Thenextmomentweheardablast,andthenathunderingsound:"Llaiscraigynsyrthiaw;thevoiceoftherockinfalling,sir,"saidJohnJones;"blastingisdangerousandawfulwork。"Wereachedthebottomofthedescent,andproceededfortwoorthreemilesupanddownaroughandnarrowroad;Ithenturnedroundandlookedatthehillswhichwehadpassedover。Theylookedbulkyandhuge。
Wecontinuedourway,andpresentlysawmarksofafireinsomegrassbythesideoftheroad。"HavetheGipsiaidbeenthere?"
saidItomyguide。
"Hardly,sir;IshouldratherthinkthattheGwyddelaid(Irish)
havebeencampingtherelately。"
"TheGwyddeliad?"
"Yes,sir,thevagabondGwyddeliad,whoatpresentinfestthesepartsmuch,anddomuchmoreharmthantheGipsiaideverdid。"
"WhatdoyoumeanbytheGipsiaid?"
"Dark,handsomepeople,sir,whooccasionallyusedtocomeaboutinvansandcarts,themenbuyingandsellinghorses,andsometimestinkering,whilstthewomentoldfortunes。"
"Andtheyhaveceasedtocomeabout?"
"Nearlyso,sir;IbelievetheyhavebeenfrightenedawaybytheGwyddelod。"
"WhatkindofpeoplearetheseGwyddelod?
"Savage,brutishpeople,sir;ingeneralwithoutshoesandstockings,withcoarsefeaturesandheadsofhairlikemops。"
"Howdotheylive?"
"Thementinkeralittle,sir,butmorefrequentlyplunder。Thewomentellfortunes,andstealwhenevertheycan。"
"TheylivesomethingliketheGipsiaid。"
"Something,sir;butthehenGipsiaidweregentlefolksincomparison。"
"YouthinktheGipsiaidhavebeenfrightenedawaybytheGwyddelians?"
"Ido,sir;theGwyddelodmadetheirappearanceinthesepartsabouttwentyyearsago,andsincethentheGipsiaidhavebeenrarelyseen。"
"AretheseGwyddelodpoor?"
"Bynomeans,sir;theymakelargesumsbyplunderingandothermeans,withwhich,’tissaid,theyretireatlasttotheirowncountryorAmerica,wheretheybuylandandsettledown。"